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REESE  LIBRARY 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


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WESTERN  SCENES  AND  ADVENTURES. 


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PHILAD 


MILLER. 


WILD    SCENES 

IN 

KANSAS     AND     NEBRASKA, 

'  THE 

ROCKY    MOUNTAINS, 

OREGON,  CALIFORNIA,  NEW  MEXICO,  TEXAS,  AND 
THE  GRAND  PRAIRIES; 

OR, 

NOTES  BY  THE  WAY, 

DURING  AN  EXCURSION  OF  THREE  YEARS, 

WITH   A 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  COUNTRIES  PASSED  THROUGH, 

INCLUDING   THEIR 

GEOGRAPHY,  GEOLOGY,   RESOURCES,   PRESENT  CONDITION, 
AND  THE  DIFFERENT  NATIONS  INHABITING  THEM. 

BY  RUFUS  B.  SAGE. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
G.     D.     MILLER,     PUBLISHER, 

NINTH  STREET,  FIRST  DOOR  ABOVE  CHESTNUT. 
1855. 


\%^3 


BEESS 


Entered,  according  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  Year  of  our  Lord  1846. 

BY  RUFUS  B.   SAGE, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  United  States  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District 
of  the  State  of  Is  ew- York. 

Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  Year  of  our  Lord,  1855, 

BY     a.     D.     MILLER, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  United  States  District  Court  for  the  Eastern  District 
of  the  State  of  Pennsylvania. 


Printed  oy  T.  K  &  P.  G.  Collins. 


PEE  FACE. 


The  growing  interest  entertained  by  the  American  public  in  reference 
to  the  subjects  mainly  treated  upon  in  the  volume  now  before  the  reader,  is 
deemed  a  sufficient  apology  for  its  appearance.  *  * , ,  *  *  Although 
our  newspapers  teem  with  professed  descriptions  of  those  countries  em- 
braced within  its  limits,  and  are  redundant  with  animadversions  upon  their 
admitted  importance — while  the  ambitious  politician  prates  of  them  learn- 
edly, and  quotes  by  the  day  from  fugitive  paragraphs  of  doubtful  verity, 
gleaned  here  and  there  as  chance  may  favor  him — a  palpable  ignorance  is 
evinced  throughout  in  regard  to  a  vast  store  of  interesting  particulars. 

To  fill  up  in  some  measure  this  wide  vacuum  of  general  information,  is 
the  author's  object  in  his  present  undertaking.  With  this  view  he  has  en- 
deavored to  present  a  full  and  comprehensive  picture  of  the  real  condition 
of  regions  so  attractive  as  are  the  above,  and  in  so  doing  he  is  conscious  of 
having  erred  in  no  important  particular.  Whatever  is  affirmed,  may  be 
relied  upon  as  matter  of  fact ;  while  details  of  a  questionable  nature  may 
be  inferred  from  the  guarded  language  in  which  they  are  expressed.  So 
far  as  his  personal  knowledge  is  concerned,  he  has  spoken  without  reserve  ; 
but  information  based  upon  second-hand  authority,  is  given  as  such. 

The  catalogue  of  facts  relative  to  the  manner  in  which  the  fur  trade  is 
conducted,  and  the  enormities  chargeable  upon  the  individuals  engaged  in 
it,  may  be  objected  to  as  unnecessarily  minute ;  but,  regarded,  as  it  should 
be,  as  one  of  the  explanatory  causes  of  Indian  degradation,  it  will  hardly 
fail  to  secure  a  ready  acquiescence  from  the  reader.  Justice  to  the  "  red 
man  "  demands  only  a  rehearsal  of  the  simple  truth,  that  condemnation  may 
be  awarded  to  the  doubly  guilty. 

1* 


210434 


beese 

Entered,  according  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  Year  of  our  Lord  1846. 

BY  RUFUS  B.   SAGE, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  United  States  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District 
of  the  State  of  IS  ew- York. 

Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  Year  of  our  Lord,  1855, 

BY     G.     D.     MILLER, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  United  States  District  Court  for  the  Eastern  District 
of  the  State  of  Pennsylvania. 


Printed  by  T.  K.   &  P.  G.  Collins, 


PREFACE. 


The  growing  interest  entertained  by  the  American  public  in  reference 
to  the  subjects  mainly  treated  upon  in  the  volume  now  before  the  reader,  is 
deemed  a  sufficient  apology  for  its  appearance.  •*._••  Although 
our  newspapers  teem  with  professed  descriptions  of  those  countries  em- 
braced within  its  limits,  and  are  redundant  with  animadversions  upon  their 
admitted  importance — while  the  ambitious  politician  prates  of  them  learn- 
edly, and  quotes  by  the  day  from  fugitive  paragraphs  of  doubtful  verity, 
gleaned  here  and  there  as  chance  may  favor  him — a  palpable  ignorance  is 
evinced  throughout  in  regard  to  a  vast  store  of  interesting  particulars. 

To  fill  up  in  some  measure  this  wide  vacuum  of  general  information,  is 
the  author's  object  in  his  present  undertaking.  With  this  view  he  has  en- 
deavored to  present  a  full  and  comprehensive  picture  of  the  real  condition 
of  regions  so  attractive  as  are  the  above,  and  in  so  doing  he  is  conscious  of 
having  erred  in  no  important  particular.  Whatever  is  affirmed,  may  be 
relied  upon  as  matter  of  fact ;  while  details  of  a  questionable  nature  may 
be  inferred  from  the  guarded  language  in  which  they  are  expressed.  So 
far  as  his  personal  knowledge  is  concerned,  he  has  spoken  without  reserve  ; 
but  information  based  upon  second-hand  authority,  is  given  as  such. 

The  catalogue  of  facts  relative  to  the  manner  in  which  the  fur  trade  is 
conducted,  and  the  enormities  chargeable  upon  the  individuals  engaged  in 
it,  may  be  objected  to  as  unnecessarily  minute ;  but,  regarded,  as  it  should 
be,  as  one  of  the  explanatory  causes  of  Indian  degradation,  it  will  hardly 
fail  to  secure  a  ready  acquiescence  from  the  reader.  Justice  to  the  "  red 
man  "  demands  only  a  rehearsal  of  the  simple  truth,  that  condemnation  may 
be  awarded  to  the  doubly  guilty. 

1# 


210434 


PREFACE. 

The  narrative  of  the  Texan  expedition  sent  against  New  Mexico  in  the 
spring  of  1843,  with  its  mishaps,  and  conflicts  with  the  Mexicans  and  In- 
dians, added  to  a  statement  of  its  surrender  to  the  U.  S.  Dragoons,  and  the 
causes  which  led  to  its  final  dispersion,  will  doubtless  claim  attention,  as 
being  the  only  account  of  it  hitherto  published. 

In  his  notes  of  travel  it  has  been  the  author's  endeavor  to  avoid  prolixity ; 
and,  while  his  acting  motto  has  been  to  say  as  much  as  possible  in  a  few 
words,  he  has  not  withheld  full  descriptions  of  the  various  scenes  and  coun- 
tries that  met  his  view  during  his  lengthy  excursion.  He  is  well  aware 
that  his  style  is  partially  deficient  in  the  ease  and  gracefulness  peculiar  to 
pome  writers  ;  but  here  he  would  offer  no  apology — it  is  his  own,  and  for 
it  he  neither  asks  the  favor  of  critics  nor  expects  their  lenity. 

Fully  persuaded  that  a  work  of  this  kind  will  prove  acceptable  at  the 
present  time,  the  author  would  fain  believe  the  public  in  general  are  more 
regardful  of  its  intrinsic  merits  than  of  the  garb  in  which  it  appears,  and 
with  these  observations  he  is  content  to  abide  the  result. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Objects  of  a  proposed  excursion.  Primary  plans  and  movements.  A  Digression. 
Rendezvous  for  Oregon  emigrants  and  Santa  Fe  traders.  Sensations  on  a 
first  visit  to  the  border  Prairies.    Frontier  Indians.  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Preparations  for  leaving.  Scenes  at  Camp.  Things  as  they  appeared.  Simpli- 
city of  mountaineers.  Sleep  in  the  open  air.  Character,  habits,  and  costume 
of  mountaineers.  Heterogeneous  ingredients  of  Company.  The  command- 
ant. En  route.  Comical  exhibition  and  adventure  with  a  Spanish  compa- 
ny.   Grouse.    Elm  Grove.    A  storm.    Santa  Fe  traders.    Indian  battle.  16 

CHAPTER  III. 

The  Pottowatomies.  Crossing  the  Wakarousha.  Adventure  at  the  Springs. 
The  Caw  chief.  Kansas  river  and  Indians.  Pleading  for  whiskey.  Hick- 
ory timber.  Prairie  tea.  Scenes  at  the  N.  Fork  of  Blue.  Wild  honey. 
Return  party.  Mountaineers  in  California.  Adventure  with  a  buffalo.  In- 
dian atrocities.    Liquor  and  the  Fur  Trade.     Strict  guard.    High  prices.  23 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Country  from  the  frontiers  to  Big  Blue  ;  its  geological  character,  &c.  Novel  cure 
for  fever  and  ague.  Indian  trails.  Game.  Large  rabbits.  Antelope,  and 
their  peculiarities.  Beaver  cuttings.  Big  Blue  and  its  vicinity.  Dangerous 
country.  Pawnee  bravery.  Night-alarm,  (Prairies  on  fire.)  Platte  river. 
Predominant  characteristics  of  the  Grand  Prairies,  and  theory  explanative  of 
of  their  phenomenon.  Something  to  laugh  at.  "  Big  Jim  "  and  the  ante- 
lope. 30 

CHAPTER  V. 

Deserted  camp.  Big  Jim's  third  attempt  as  a  hunter.  Buffalo  and  other  particu- 
lars. Big  Jim  lying  guard.  Butchering.  Strange  selections.  Extraordi- 
nary eating,  and  excellence  cf  buffalo  meat.  Brady's  Island.  The  mur- 
derer's fate.  Substitute  for  wood.  A  storm.  Game  in  camp.  Strange 
infatuation.  Tenacity  of  buffalo  to  life,  and  how  to  hunt  them.  Cross  S. 
Fork  of  Platte.     Big  Jim's  fourth  adventure.  39 


IV.  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

Ash  creek.  Pawnee  and  Sioux  battle-ground.  Bread-root.  The  Eagle's  Nest. 
Mad  wolf.  Number  and  variety  of  prairie  wolves, — their  sagacity.  Mad 
bull.  Making  and  curing  meat.  Big  Jim  still  unfortunate.  Johnson's  creek. 
McFarlan's  Castle.  Deceptiveness  of  distances.  Express  from  the  Fort. 
Brave  Bear.  Bull  Tail.  Talk  with  the  Indians.  Speech  of  Marto-cog- 
ershne.    Reply.    Tahtungah-sana's  address.  49 

CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Chimney.  A  bet.  Spur  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Scott's  Bluff.  Roman- 
tic scenery.  Mimic  city.  A  pyramid.  A  monument.  An  elevated  garden. 
Mountain  sheep.  An  Eden.  Death  in  camp.  The  wanderer's  grave. 
Horse  creek  and  gold.  Goche's  hole.  Arrival  at  Fort  Platte.  Remarks 
by  the  way.  Prairie  travel.  Locality  and  description  of  the  Fort.  Indian 
lodges.  Migratory  habits  of  mountain  and  prairie  tribes.  Scenes  at  Fort. 
Drunken  Indians.  Tragical  event.  Indian  funeral.  Speech  of  Etespa- 
huska  on  the  death  of  his  father.  60 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Coast  clear,  and  Trade  opened.  More  visitors.  Smoking  out  the  natives.  Inci- 
dent illustrative  of  Indian  character.  Expeditions  for  trade.  Black  Hills. 
Rawhide.  An  Indian  and  a  buffalo  chase.  Deep  snow,  extreme  cold,  and 
painful  journey.  L'eau-qui-court.  Remarks.  Lost.  White  river ;  its  val- 
ley, fruits,  and  game.  Building  site.  The  Devil's  Tea-pot.  Troubles  with 
Indians.  Theft  and  its  punishment.  Indian  soldiers.  Christmas  extras. 
Outrageous  conduct.  Rascality  of  traders.  "  That  Old  Serpent."  Indian 
superstition,  religious  tenets  and  practices.    Notions  upon  general  morality.    71 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Dangers  connected  with  the  liquor  trade.  Difficulty  with  Bull  Eagle.  Scenes 
of  bloodshed  and  horror.  Cheating  in  the  fur  trade.  How  the  red  man 
becomes  tutored  in  vice.  A  chief's  daughter  offered  in  exchange  for  liquor. 
Indian  mode  of  courtship  and  marriage.  Squaws  an  article  of  traffic.  Di- 
vorce.   Plurality  of  wives.  82 

CHAPTER  X. 

Tahtunga-egoniska.  High  gaming.  Weur-sena  Warkpollo,  a  strange  story. 
The  Death  Song,  a  tale  of  love.  Medicine-men.  Extraordinary  perform- 
ance of  Tahtunga-mobellu.    Wonderful  feats  of  jugglery.  89 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Food  for  horses.  Squaws  and  their  performances.  Dogs  and  dog-meat.  Re- 
turn to  Fort.  Starvation.  Travel  by  guess.  Death  from  drinking.  Medi- 
cine-making.   A  Burial.    Little  Lodge  and  the  French  trader.    A  speech 


CONTENTS. 


in  council.    Journey  to  White  river.    High  winds  and  snow.    Intense  suf- 
ferings and  painful  results.  97 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Another  drunken  spree.  Horses  devoured  by  wolves.  An  upset.  A  blowing  up. 
Daring  feat  of  wolves.  A  girl  offered  for  liquor.  Winter  on  the  Platte. 
Boat  building.  Hunting  expedition.  Journey  up  the  Platte.  Island  camp. 
Narrow  escape.  Snow  storm.  Warm  Spring.  Pass  of  the  Platte  into  the 
prairies.  A  valley.  Bitter  Cottonwood.  Indian  forts.  Wild  fruit.  Root- 
digging.  Cherry  tea  and  its  uses.  Geology  of  the  country.  Soils,  grasses, 
herbs,  plants,  and  purity  of  atmosphere.  Horse-shoe  creek.  A  panther. 
Prairie  dogs  and  their  peculiarities.  103 

CHAPTER  XHI. 

The  Creek  valley.  The  Platte  as  a  mountain  stream.  Canon.  Romantic  pros* 
pect.  Comical  bear  story.  Perilous  encounter  with  a  wounded  bull.  Ge- 
ological remarks.  Division  of  party.  Safety  of  spring  travel.  La  Bonte's 
creek.  Remarks  by  the  way.  Service-berry.  Deer  Creek.  General 
observations.  Moccasin  making.  Box-elder.  Bear  killed.  Excellence  of 
its  flesh.  Different  kinds  of  bears  in  Oregon  and  the  mountains.  The 
grizzly  bear,  his  nature  and  habits.  110 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Desperate  encounter  with  a  grizzly  bear,  and  extraordinary  instance  of  suffering. 
Close  contest.  A  comical  incident.  Cross  Platte.  Canon  camp.  Sage 
trees.  Mountain  sheep,  and  all  about  them.  Independence  Rock ;  why  so 
called,  and  description  of  it.    Devil's  Gate.    Landscape  scenery.  117 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Return  route.  Oregon  trail  from  Independence  Rock  through  the  South  Pass. 
Cross  the  Sweet  Water  and  Platte.  Mountain  Fowl.  Journey  up  Medicine 
Bow.  Dangerous  country.  A  fight  with  the  Sioux.  The  "  Carcague." 
A  surprise.  Visit  to  the  Crow  village.  Number  and  character  of  the  Crow 
nation.     Selling  a  prisoner  for  tobacco.     Description  of  Laramie  Plains.      123 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Sibille's-hole.  Novel  bitters.  Chugwater.  Gold.  Curiosity.  Affairs  at  the 
Fort.  Amusements.  Gambling  among  squaws,  and  games  played.  Squaw 
dresses,  and  riding  fashion.  Items  of  interest  to  the  curious,  proving  the  in- 
tercourse of  the  ancient  Romans  with  the  people  of  this  continent.  132 

CHAPTER  XVH. 

Singular  exhibition  of  natural  affection.  Embark  for  the  States.  Scarcity  of 
provisions  and  consequent  hardship  and  suffering.     Extraordinary  daring  o<* 


CONTENTS. 


wolves.  Difficulties  of  navigation.  Novel  diet.  Fishing.  A  fish  story, 
and  another  to  match  it.  A  bull  story.  Hard  aground  and  dismal  situation. 
Extreme  exposure.  Cold,  hungry,  and  wet.  Again  afloat.  Re-supply  of 
provisions.  Camp  on  fire.  A  picture  of  Platte  navigation.  Country  north 
of  river.  Adventure  with  a  bull.  Indian  benevolence.  Summary  of  hard- 
ships and  deprivations.    Abandon  voyage.  139 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Hunting  excursion.  Thirst  more  painful  than  hunger.  Geological  observations. 
Mournful  casualty.  Sad  scene  of  sepulture.  Melancholy  night.  Voyage 
in  an  empty  boat.  Ruins  of  a  Pawnee  village  at  Cedar  Bluff.  Plover 
creek.  Cache  Grove.  Thousand  Islands.  Abandon  boat.  Exploring  com- 
pany. A  horrible  situation.  Agony  to  torment.  Pawnee  village.  Exem- 
plary benevolence  of  an  Indian  chief.  Miserable  fourth  of  July.  Four  days' 
starvation.     Arrival  at  Council  Bluff.     Proceed  to  Independence.  147 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

The  country  oetween  the  Pawnee  village  and  Bellevieu,  and  from  that  to  Fort 
Leavenworth.  Leave  Independence  for  the  Mountains.  Meet  Pawnees. 
Indian  hospitality.  Journey  up  the  South  Fork  Platte.  Fort  Grove.  Bea- 
ver creek.  Bijou.  Chabonard's  camp.  Country  described.  Medicine 
Lodge.  The  Chyennes ;  their  character  and  history.  Arrive  at  Fort  Lan- 
caster.   Different  localities  in  its  neighborhood.    Fatal  Duel.    Ruins.  154 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Old  acquaintances.  Indian  murders.  Mode  of  travelling  in  a  dangerous  coun- 
try Mexican  traders.  Summary  way  of  teaching  manners.  Fort  Lancas- 
ter and  surrounding  country.  Resume  journey.  Cherry  creek  and  connect- 
ing observations.  Sketch  of  the  Arapahos,  their  country,  character,  &c. 
Camp  of  free  traders.  Blackfoot  camp.  Daugherty's  creek.  Observations 
relative  to  the  Divide.  Mexican  cupidity.  Strange  visitors.  The  lone  trav- 
ellers. Arrive  at  the  Arkansas.  General  remarks.  Curious  specimens  of 
cacti.  Fontaine  qui  Bouit,  or  Natural  Soda  fountain.  Indian  superstition. 
Enchanting  scenery.    Extraordinary  wall  of  sandstone.  162 

CHAPTER  XXL 

Vicinity  of  the  Arkansas.  Settlement.  The  Pueblo.  Rio  San  Carlos,  its  val- 
leys and  scenery.  Shooting  by  moonlight.  Taos.  Review  of  the  country 
travelled  over.  Taos ;  its  vicinity,  scenery,  and  mines.  Ranchos  and  Ran- 
cheros.  Mexican  houses  ;  their  domestic  economy,  and  filth.  Abject  poverty 
and  deplorable  condition  of  the  lower  classes  of  Mexicans,  with  a  general 
review  of  their  character,  and  some  of  the  causes  contributing  to  their  pre- 
sent degradation.  The  Pueblo  Indians  and  their  strange  notions.  Ancient 
temple.  Character  of  the  Pueblos.  Journey  to  the  Uintah  river,  and  obser- 
vations by  the  way.    Taos  Utahs,  Pa-utahs,  Uintah  and  Lake  Utahs.    The 


CONTENTS. 


Diggers ;  misery  of  their  situation,  strange  mode  of  lying,  with  a  sketch  of 
their  character.  The  Navijos;  their  civilization,  hostility  to  Spaniards, 
ludicrous  barbarity,  bravery,  &c,  with  a  sketch  of  their  country,  and  why 
they  are  less  favorable  to  the  whites  than  formerly.  171 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Uintah  trade.  Snake  Indians;  their  country  and  character.  Description  of 
Upper  California.  The  Eastern  Section.  Great  Salt  Lake  and  circumjacent 
country.  Desert.  Digger  country,  and  regions  south.  Fertility  of  soil. 
Prevailing  rock  and  minerals.  Abundance  of  wild  fruit,  grain,  and  game. 
Valley  of  the  Colorado.  Magnificent  scenery.  Valleys  of  the  Uintah  and 
other  rivers.  Vicinity  of  the  Gila.  Face  of  the  country,  soil  &c.  Sweet 
spots.  Mildness  of  climate,  and  its  healthiness.  The  natives.  Sparsity  of 
inhabitants.  No  government.  All  about  the  Colorado  and  Gila  rivers. 
Abundance  of  fish.  Trade  in  pearl  oyster-shells.  Practicable  routes  from 
the  United  States.  182 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Minerals.  Western  California.  The  Sacramento  and  contiguous  regions. 
Principal  rivers.  Fish.  Commercial  advantages.  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 
Other  Bays  and  Harbors.  Description  of  the  country ;  territory  northwest 
of  the  Sacramento ;  Tlamath  Mountains  ;  California  range  and  its  vicinity  ; 
southern  parts ;  timber,  river-bottoms  ;  Valleys  of  Sacramento,  del  Plumas, 
and  Tulare ;  their  extent,  fertility,  timber,  and  fruit ;  wild  grain  and  clover, 
spontaneous ;  wonderful  fecundity  of  soil,  and  its  products  ;  the  productions, 
climate,  rains,  and  dews  ;  geological  and  mineralogical  character ;  face  of 
the  country;  its  water;  its  healthiness ;  game;  superabundance  of  cattle, 

„  horses,  and  sheep,  their  prices,  &c. ;  beasts  of  prey;  the  inhabitants,  who; 
Indians,  their  character  and  condition  ;  Capital  of  the  Province,  with  other 
towns ;  advantages  of  San  Francisco ;  inland  settlements ;  foreigners  and 
Mexicans ;  Government ;  its  full  military  strength.    Remarks.  18i» 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Visitors  at  Uintah.  Adventures  of  a  trapping  party.  The  Munchies,  or  white 
Indians ;  some  account  of  them.  Amusements  at  rendezvous.  Mysterious 
city,  and  attempts  at  its  exploration,— speculation  relative  to  its  inhabitants. 
Leave  for  Fort  Hall.  Camp  at  Bear  river.  Boundary  between  the  U. 
States  and  Mexico.  Green  valleys,  &c.  Country  en  route.  Brown's-hole. 
Geological  observations.  Soda,  Beer,  and  Steamboat  springs  ;  their  peculi- 
arities. Minerals.  Valley  of  Bear  river ;  its  fertility,  timber,  and  abun- 
dance of  wild  fruit.  Buffalo  berries.  Superior  advantages  of  this  section. 
Mineral  tar. 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Fort  Hall ;  its  history,  and  locality.     Information  relative  to  Oregon.     Bound- 


198 


CONTENTS. 


aries  and  extent  of  the  territory.  Its  rivers  and  lakes,  with  a  concise  descrip- 
tion of  them  severally.  Abundance  and  variety  of  fish  and  water-fowl. 
Harbors  and  islands.  Oregon  as  a  whole  ;  its  mountains  and  geographical 
divisions.  Eastern  Divison  ;  its  wild  scenery,  valleys,  soil,  and  timber ; 
volcanic  ravages ;  country  between  Clarke's  river  and  the  Columbia.  North 
of  the  Columbia ;  its  general  character.  Middle  Division ;  its  valleys,  prai- 
ries, highlands,  and  forests.  Western  Division ;  a  beautiful  country ;  ex- 
tensive valleys  of  extraordinary  fertility ;  productive  plains ;  abundance  of 
timber,  its  astonishing  size  and  variety.    A  brief  summary  of  facts.  206 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Climate  of  Oregon ;  its  variableness ;  its  rains ;  a  southern  climate  in  a  north- 
ern latitude.  Productiveness  ;  grain,  fruits,  and  flowers,  wild  and  culti- 
vated. Geological  characteristics.  Soils  and  prevailing  rock.  Minerals, 
&c.  Variety  of  game.  Wolves.  Horses,  and  other  domestic  animals. 
Population,  white  and  native ;  Indian  tribes,  their  character  and  condition. 
Missionary  stations,  and  their  improvements.  Present  trade  of  Oregon. 
Posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  Settlements.  Oregon  City,  its  situa- 
tion and  advantages ;  about  Linnton  ;  about  Wallammette  valley,  Fualitine 
plains  and  Umpqua  river ;  Vancouvre,  and  its  superior  advantages.  Kind- 
ness of  Hudson  Bay  Company  to  settlers.  217 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  manufacturing  facilities  of  Oregon.  Commercial  and  agricultural  advan- 
tages reviewed.  Rail  Road  to  the  Pacific.  Route,  mode  of  travelling,  and 
requisite  equipment  for  emigrants.  Importance  of  Oregon  to  the  United 
States.  Incident  in  the  early  history  of  Fort  Hall.  Why  the  Blackfeet  are 
hostile,  and  bright  spots  in  their  character.  Mild  weather.  Leave  for  the 
Platte.  Journey  to  the  Yampah,  and  sketch  of  the  intermediate  country. 
New  Park.  Head  of  Grand  river.  The  landscape.  Different  routes  to 
Fort  Lancaster.     Old  Park.  225 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

From  Grand  river  to  Bayou  Salade.  Observations  by  the  way.  Description  of 
the  Bayou.  Voracity  of  magpies.  Journey  to  Cherry  creek.  Country  en 
route.  Crystal  creek.  Abundance  of  game.  Antelope  hunting.  Remark- 
able sagacity  of  wolves.  Snow  storms  and  amusement.  Ravenn.  Move 
camp.  Comfortable  winter  quarters.  Animal  food  conducive  to  general 
health  and  longevity.  A  laughable  instance  of  sound  sleeping.  Astonish- 
ing wolfine  rapacity.  Beaver  lodges  and  all  about  beaver.  Hunting  excur- 
sion. Vasques'  creek,  its  valleys,  table  lands,  mountains,  and  prairies. 
Camp.  Left  alone.  Sensations,  and  care  to  avoid  danger.  A  nocturnal 
visitor.  Thrilling  adventure  and  narrow  escape.  A  lofty  specimen  of 
"gettin  down  stairs."    Geological  statistics.  233 


CONTENTS.  IX. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Return  to  the  Fort.  Texan  recruiting  officer.  New  plans.  Volunteer.  The 
Chance  Shot,  or  Special  Providence.  Texan  camp.  Country  contiguous 
to  the  Arkansas,  from  Fontaine  qui  Bouit  to  the  Rio  de  las  Ammas. 
Things  at  rendezvous.  A  glance  at  the  company.  Disposal  of  force.  March 
up  the  de  las  Animas.  The  country ;  Timpa  valley,  and  its  adjoining  hills, 
to  the  de  las  Animas.  The  latter  stream  ;  its  canon,  valley  and  enchanting 
scenery.  Tedious  egress.  Unparalleled  suffering  from  hunger,  toil,  and 
cold.  Wolf  flesh  and  buffalo  hide.  Painful  consequences  of  eating  cacti. 
A  feast  of  mule  meat  after  seven  days'  starvation.  Camp  at  the  Taos  trail. 
The  adjacent  country.  Strict  guard.  A  chase.  The  meet  reward  for 
treason.  244 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

March  down  the  Cimarone.  Junction  of  the  two  divisions.  Country  between 
the  de  las  Animas  and  the  Cimarone.  Perilous  descent.  Cafion  of  the 
Cimarone.  Soil  and  prevailing  rock.  A  fort.  Grandeur  and  sublimity  of 
scenery.  Beauty  of  rocks.  Cimarone  of  the  pain.  Fruits  and  game.  Wide- 
spread desolation.  A  dreary  country.  Summer  on  the  Desert.  Remarks. 
Encounter  with  Indians.  Nature's  nobleman.  WTild  horses  and  different 
modes  of  catching  them.  Failure  of  expected  reinforcements.  March  into 
the  enemy's  country.  Ancient  engravings  upon  a  rock.  Boy  in  the  wolf's 
den.  A  man  lost.  Forced  march.  Torment  of  thirst.  Remarks.  The 
lost  found.    Expulsion  for  cowardice, — its  effect.  253 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Mexican  camp.  Pursuit.  Advance  upon  Mora.  Enemy  discovered.  Coun- 
try between  the  Rio  de  las  Animas  and  Mora ;  its  picturesque  beauty.  Ad- 
mirable point  of  observation.  Fortified  position.  Battle  of  the  pass ;  order 
of  attack,  passage  of  the  river,  storming  the  enemy's  camp,  and  number  of 
killed,  wounded  and  prisoners.  Council  of  war.  Prisoners  released. 
Message  to  Amijo.  Return  march.  Mexican  army.  Attacked,  and  results 
of  action.  Mexican  bravery.  Retreat.  Cross  the  Table  Mountain.  New 
species  of  wild  onions.  March  down  the  de  las  Animas.  Discouragements 
accumulate.  Disband.  Sketch  of  factions.  Texan  prisoners.  Arrival  of 
reinforcements.  Battle  of  the  Arroyo:  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners. 
Retreat  of  Amijo.  "  Stampede."  Frightful  encounter  with  the  Cumanches 
and  Kuyawas.  Discharge  of  troops.  Affair  with  Capt.  Cook.  Surrender 
to  U.  S.  Dragoons,  and  failure  of  expedition.  Return  to  Texas.  Journey 
to  the  Platte.  Country  between  the  Arkansas  and  Beaver  creek.  Feasting 
at  camp.  Crows'  eggs.  Lateness  of  season.  Snow-storm  in  June.  An 
Indian  fort.  Serio-comico  adventure  with  a  wolf.  Indians.  Song  of  the 
night-bird.  263 

2 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Lost.  Night  on  the  Prairie.  Head  of  the  Kansas  river.  Minerals.  Country. 
Gold.  Wonderful  incident  relative  to  a  wounded  bull.  Indians.  Join  the 
Arapahos.  Moving  village.  Country  between  Beaver  creek  and  the  Platte. 
Canon.  Reach  Fort  Lancaster.  Fortune  bettered.  News  from  the  States. 
Murder.  Extraordinary  instances  of  human  tenacity  to  life.  Arrival  of 
Indians.  Theft.  Chyenne  outrage.  Return  of  Oregon  emigrants.  "Old 
Bob,"  and  his  adventures.  A  "  Protracted  Meeting,"  or  Indian  Medicine- 
making.  Indian  oath.  Jaunt  to  the  mountains.  Mountain  scenery.  Camp 
on  Thompson's  creek.  Wild  fruits.  .  Concentration  of  valleys.  Romantic 
view.  A  gem  in  the  mountains.  Grand  river  pass.  Salt  lakes.  Aston- 
ishing scope  of  vision.  The  black-tailed  deer.  Peculiarity  in  horses.  Re- 
markable natural  fortification.     Return.    Travelling  by  guess.  273 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Newspapers.  False  reports.  Singular  grasses.  Sale  of  skins  at  Fort  Lancaster. 
An  excursion.  An  incident.  Camp.  Huge  horns.  Leopard.  Panther. 
Slaughter  of  eagles.  Dressing  skins.  The  hunter's  camp.  Vasques' creek. 
The  weather.  Return  of  comrades  to  Fort.  Sweets  of  solitude.  Expo- 
sure in  a  snow-storm.  The  canon  of  S.  Fork  Platte.  A  ridge.  A  val- 
ley. Beautiful  locality.  Choice  site  for  a  settlement.  Flowers  in  February. 
A  hunting  incident.  Fate  of  the  premature  flowers.  Adventure  with  a 
sheep.  Discovered  by  Indians.  A  pleasant  meeting.  Camp  at  Crystal 
creek.  Thoughts  of  home.  Resolve  on  going.  Commence  journey.  The 
caravan.  "  Big  Timber."  Country  to  the  "  Crossing."  Big  Salt  Bottom. 
Flowers.  A  stranger  of  other  lands.  Difficulty  with  Indians.  "  Friday." 
Tedious  travelling.  No  timber.  Detention.  Country.  Pawnee  Fork. 
Mountain  and  Spanish  companies.  Spy  Buck,  the  Shawnee  war-chief. 
Pawnee  Fork. — Cure  for  a  rattlesnake's  bite.  Further  detention.  Sketch 
of  adjacent  country.  Pawnee  Rocks.  En  route  with  Friday.  Musquetoes. 
Observations.    Friday  as  a  hunter.  287 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

The  Arapaho  American,  a  sketch  of  real  life.  Tenets  of  the  mountain  Indians 
in  reference  to  a  future  state  of  rewards  and  punishments.  The  "  water 
bull."  Country  between  Cow  creek  and  Council  Grove.  Inviting  locatity 
for  settlement.  Sudden  rise  of  water.  Separate  routes.  Dangerous  travel- 
ling. Osage  village.  Osages,  and  all  about  them.  Arrival  at  Van  Buren, 
Arkansas.    Concluding  remarks.  297 


SCENES 


KANSAS,    NEBRASKA,    ETC. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Objects  of  a  proposed  excursion. — Primary  plans  and  movements. — A.  digression  — 
Rendezvous  for  Oregon  emigrants  and  Santa  Fe  traders. — Sensations  on  a  first 
visit  to  the  border  Prairies. — Frontier  Indians. 

My  purpose  in  visiting  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  countries  adjacent, 
having  hitherto  proved  a  fruitful  source  of  inquiry  to  the  many  persons  I  meet, 
when  aware  of  my  having  devoted  three  years  to  travel  in  those  remote 
regions,  and  I  am  so  plied  with  almost  numberless  other  questions,  I  know 
of  no  better  way  to  dispose  of  them  satisfactorily,  than  by  doing  what  I 
had  thought  of  at  the  outset,  to  wit :  writing  a  book. 

But,  says  one,  more  books  have  been  already  written  upon  subjects  of  a 
kindred  nature,  than  will  ever  find  readers.  True,  indeed ;  yet  I  must 
venture  one  more ;  and  this  much  I  promise  at  the  start :  it  shall  be  different, 
in  most  respects,  from  all  that  have  preceded  it ;  and  if  I  fail  to  produce  an 
agreeable  variety  of  adventures,  interwoven  with  a  large  fund  of  valuable 
information,  then  I  shall  not  have  accomplished  my  purpose. 

Yet,  'why  did  I  go? — what  was  my  object?'  Let  me  explain:  Dame 
Nature  bestowed  upon  me  lavishly  that  innate  curiosity,  and  fondness  for 
things  strange  and  new,  of  which  every  one  is  more  or  less  possessed. 
Phrenologists  would  declare  my  organ  of  Inquisitiveness  to  be  largely 
developed ;  and,  certain  it  is,  1  have  a  great  liking  to  tread  upon  unfre- 
quented ground,  and  mingle  among  scenes  at  once  novel  and  romantic. 
Love  of  adventure,  then,  was  the  great  prompter,  while  an  enfeebled  state 
of  health  sensibly  admonished  me  to  seek  in  other  parts  that  invigorating 
air  and  climate  denied  by  the  diseased  atmosphere  of  a  populous  country. 
I  also  wished- to  acquaint  myself  with  the  geography  of  those  comparatively 
unexplored  regions, — their  geological  character,  curiosities,  resources,  and 
natural  advantages,  together  with  their  real  condition,  present  inhabitants, 
inducements  \g  emigrants,  and  most  favorable  localities  for  settlements,  to 
enable  me  to  speak  from  personal  knowledge  upon  subjects  so  interesting 
to  the  public  mind,  at  the  present  time,  as  are  the  above.     Here,  then,  were 


14  RENDEZVOUS  OF  OREGON  EMIGRANTS. 

objects  every  way  worthy  of  attention,  and  vested  with  an  importance  that 
would  render  my  excursion  not  a  mere  idle  jaunt  for  the  gratification  of 
selfish  curiosity.     This  much  by  way  of  prelude, — now  to  the  task  in  hand. 

While  yet  undecided  as  to  the  most  advisable  mode  of  prosecuting  my 
intended  enterprise,  on  learning  that  a  party  of  adventurers  were  rendez- 
voused at  Westport,  Mo.,  preparatory  to  their  long  and  arduous  journey  to 
the  new-formed  settlements  of  the  Columbia  river,  I  hastened  to  that  place, 
where  I  arrived  in  the  month  of  May,  1841,  with  the  design  of  becoming 
one  of  their  number.  In  this,  however,  I  was  doomed  to  disappointment 
by  being  too  late.  A  few  weeks  subsequent  marked  the  return  of  several 
fur  companies,  from  their  annual  excursions  to  the  Indian  tribes  inhabiting 
the  regions  adjacent  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Platte  and  Arkansas  rivers, 
whose  outward  trips  are  performed  in  the  fall  months.  Impatient  at  delay 
and  despairing  of  a  more  eligible  opportunity,  for  at  least  some  time  to  come, 
I  made  prompt  arrangements  with  one  of  them,  to  accompany  it,  en  route, 
as  far  as  the  Rocky  Mountains,  intending  to  proceed  thereafter  as  circum- 
stances or  inclination  might  suggest.  This  plan  of  travelling  was  adhered 
to,  notwithstanding  the  detention  of  some  three  months,  which  retarded  its 
prosecution. 

I  would  here  beg  indulgence  of  the  reader  to  a  seeming  digression.  The 
peculiar  locality  of  the  places  to  whose  vicinity  he  is  now  introduced,  owing 
to  the  deep  interest  cherished  in  the  public  mind  relative  to  the  Oregon  coun- 
try, will  doubtless  call  for  more  than  a  mere  passing  notice :  I  allude  to  the 
towns  of  Independence  and  Westport.  Situated  as  they  are,  at  the  utmost 
verge  of  civilization,  and  upon  the  direct  route. to  Oregon  and  regions  adja- 
cent, they  must  retain  and  command,  as  the  great  starting  points  for  emigrants 
and  traders,  that  importance  already  assumed  by  general  consent.  Their 
facilities  of  access  from  all  parts  of  the  Union,  both  by  land  and  water,  are 
nowhere  exceeded.  The  proud  Missouri  rolls  its  turbid  waves  within  six 
miles  of  either  place,  opening  the  highway  of  steam  communication,  while 
numberless  prime  roads  that  converge  from  every  direction,  point  to  them  as 
their  common  focus.  Thus,  the  staid  New  Englander  may  exchange  his  na- 
tive hills  for  the  frontier  prairies  in  the  short  interval  of  two  weeks ;  and  in 
half  that  time  the  citizen  of  the  sunny  South  may  reach  the  appointed  ren- 
dezvous ;  and,  nearer  by,  the  hardy  emigrant  may  commence  his  long  over- 
land journey,  from  his  own  door,  fully  supplied  with  all  the  necessaries  for 
its  successful  termination. 

Independence  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  Jackson  county,  Mo.,  about  four 
hundred  miles  west  by  north  of  St.  Louis,  and  contains  a  population  of 
nearly  two  thousand.  Westport  is  a  small  town  in  the  same  county,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river, — three  miles  from  the  Indian  territory,  and 
thirty  below  the  U.  S.  Dragoon  station  at  Fort  Leavenworth.  The  regular 
routes  to  Santa  Fe  and  Oregon  date  their  commencement  at  these  places. 
The  country  in  this  vicinity  is  beginning  to  be  generally  settled  by  thrifty 
farmers,  from  whom  all  the  articles  necessary  for  travellers  and  traders,  may 
be  procured  upon  reasonable  terms. 

Starting  from  either  of  the  above  points,  a  short  ride  bears  the  adventurer 
across  the  state  line,  and  affords  him  the  opportunity  of  taking  his  ini- 
tiatory lessons  amid  the  realities  of  prairie  life.  Here,  most  of  the  trading 
and  emigrant  companies  remain  encamped  for  several  weeks,  to  recruit" 


BORDER-PRAIRIES  AND  INDIANS.  15 

their  animals  and  complete  the  needful  arrangements,  prior  to  undertaking 
the  toilsome  and  dangerous  journey  before  them. 

The  scenery  of  this  neighborhood  is  truly  delightful.  It  seems  indeed 
like  one  Nature's  favored  spots,  where  Flora  presides  in  all  her  regal 
splendor,  and  with  the  fragrance  of  wild  flowers,  perfumes  the  breath  of 
spring  and  lades  the  summer  breeze  with  willing  incense ; — now,  sport- 
ing beside  her  fountains  and  revelling  in  her  dales, — then,  smiling  from 
her  hill-tops,  or  luxurating  beneath  her  groves. 

•  I  shall  never  forget  the  pleasing  sensations  produced  by  my  first  visit  to 
the  border-prairies.  It  was  in  the  month  of  June,  soon  after  my  arrival  at 
Westport.  The  day  was  clear  and  beautiful.  A  gentle  shower  the  pre- 
ceding night  had  purified  the  atmosphere,  and  the  laughing  flowerets,  newly 
invigorated  from  the  nectarine  draught,  seemed  to  vie  with  each  other  in 
the  exhalation  of  their  sweetest  odors.  The  blushing  strawberry,  scarce 
yet  divested  of  its  rich  burden  of  fruit,  kissed  my  every  step.  The  butter- 
cup, tulip,  pink,  violet,  and  daisy,  with  a  variety  of  other  beauties,  unknown 
to  the  choicest  collections  of  civilized  life,  on  every  side  captivated  the  eye 
and  delighted  the  fancy. 

The  ground  was  clothed  with  luxuriant  herbage.  The  grass,  where 
left  uncropped  by  grazing  herds  of  cattle  and  horses,  had  attained  a  sur- 
prising growth.  The  landscape  brought  within  the  scope  of  vision  a  most 
magnificent  prospect.  The  groves,  clad  in  their  gayest  foliage  and  nodding 
to  the  wind,  ever  and  anon,  crowned  the  gentle  acclivities  or  reared  their 
heads  from  the  valleys,  as  if  planted  by  the  hand  of  art  to  point  the  way- 
farer to  Elysian  retreats.  The  gushing  fountains,  softly  breathing  their 
untaught  melody,  before  and  on  either  hand,  at  short  intervals,  greeted  the 
ear  and  tempted  the  taste.  The  lark,  linnet,  and  martin,  uniting  with  other 
feathered  songsters,  poured  forth  heir  sweetest  strains  in  one  grand  con- 
cert, and  made  the  air  vocal  with  their  warblings ;  and  the  brown-plumed 
grouse,  witless  of  the  approach  of  man,  till  dangerously  near,  would  here 
and  there  emerge  wellnigh  from  under  foot  and  whiz  through  the  air 
with  almost  lightning  speed,  leaving  me  half  frightened  at  her  unlooked 
for  presence  and  sudden  exit.  Hither  and  yon,  truant  bands  of  horses  and 
cattle,  from  the  less  inviting  pastures  of  the  settlements,  were  seen  in  the 
distance,  cropping  the  choice  herbage  before  them,  or  gambolling  in  all  tlte 
pride  of  native  freedom. 

Amid  such  scenes  I  delight  to  wander,  and  often,  at  this  late  day,  will 
my  thoughts  return,  unbidden,  to  converse  with  them  anew.  There  is  a 
charm  in  the  loneliness — an  enchantment  in  the  solitude — a  witching 
variety  in  the  sameness,  that  must  ever  impress  the  traveller,  when,  for 
the  first  time,  he  enters  within  the  confines  of  the  great  western  prairies. 

One  thing  further  and  I  will  have  done  with  this  digression.  Connected 
with  the  foregoing,  it  may  not  be  deemed  amiss  to  say  something  in  relation 
to  the  Indian  tribes  inhabiting  the  territory  adjacent  to  this  common  camp- 
ing-place. The  nearest  native  settlement  is  some  twelve  miles  distant,  and 
belongs  to  the  Shawnees.  This  nation  numbers  in  all  fourteen  or  fifteen 
hundred  men,  women  and  children.  Their  immediate  neighbors  are  the 
Delawares  and  Wyandotts,— the  former  claiming  a  population  of  eleven 
hundred,  and  the  latter,  three  or  four  hundred.  Many  connected  with 
these  tribes  outstrip  the  nearer  whites,  in  point  of  civilization  and  refine- 

9* 


16  PREPARATIONS  FOR  LEAVING. 

merit, — excelling  them  both  in  honesty  and  morality,  and  all  that  elevates 
and  ennobles  the  human  character.  Their  wild  habits  have  become  in  a 
great  measure  subdued  by  the  restraining  influences  of  Christianity,  and 
they  themselves  transformed  into  industrious  cultivators  of  the  soil, — occu- 
pying neat  mansions  with  smiling  fields  around  them. 

Nor  are  they  altogether  neglectful  of  the  means  of  education.  The 
mission  schools  are  generally  well  attended  by  ready  pupils,  in  no  respect 
less  backward  than  the  more  favored  ones  of  other  lands.  It  is  not  rare 
even,  considering  the  smallness  of  their  number,  to  meet  among  them  with 
persons  of  liberal  education  and  accomplishments.  Their  mode  of  dress 
assimilates  that  of  .the  whites,  though,  as  yet,  fashion  has  made  compara- 
tively but  small  inroads.  The  unsophisticated  eye  would  find  prolific  source 
for  amusement  in  the  uncouth  appearance  of  their  females  on  public  occa- 
sions. Perchance  a  gay  Indian  maiden  comes  flaunting  past,  with  a  huge 
fur-hat  awkwardly  placed  upon  her  head, — embanded  by  broad  strips  of 
figured  tin,  instead  of  ribbons, — and  ears  distended  with  large  flattened 
rings  of  silver,  reaching  to  her  shoulders ;  and  here  another,  solely  habited 
in  a  long  wollen  under-dress,  obtrudes  to  view,  and  skips  along  in  all  the 
pride  and  pomposity  of  a  regular  city  belle  !  Such  are  sights  by  no  means 
uncommon. 

These  tribes  have  a  regular  civil  government  of  their  own,  and  all  laws 
instituted  for  the  general  welfare  are  duly  respected.  They  are,  also,  be- 
coming more  temperate  in  their  habits,  fully  convinced  that  ardent  spirits 
have  hitherto  proved  the  greatest  enemy  to  the  red  man.  The  churches 
of  various  christain  denominations,  established  among  them,  are  in  a  flour- 
ishing condition,  and  include  with  their  members  many  whose  lives  of 
examplary  piety  adorn  their  professions. 

Taken  as  a  whole,  the  several  Indian  tribes,  occupying  this  beautiful 
and  fertile  section  of  country,  are  living  witnesses  to  the  softening  and  be- 
nign influences  of  enlightened  christian  effort,  and  furnish  indubitable 
evidence  of  the  susceptibility  of  the  Aborigine  for  civilization  and  im- 
provement. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Preparations  for  leaving. — Scenes   at  Camp. — Things  as  they  appeared. — Simplic- 
ity of  mountaineers. — Sleep  in  the  open  air. — Character,  habits,  and  costume  of 

mountaineers. — Heterogeneous  ingredients  of  Company. — The  commandant. En 

route. — Comical  exhibition  and  adventure  with  a  Spanish  company. — Grouse. 

Elm  Grove. — A  storm.— Santa  Fe  traders.— Indian  battle. 

After  many  vexatious  delays  and  disappointments,  the  time  was  at  length 
fixed  for  our  departure,  and  leaving  Independance  on  the  2d  of  September, 
I  proceeded  to  join  the  encampment  without  the  state  line.  It  was  nearly 
night  before  I  reached  my  destination,  and  the  camp-fires  wTere  already 


SCENES  AT  CAMP.  17 

lighted,  in  front  of  which  the  officiating  cook  was  busily  engaged  in  prepar- 
ing the  evening  repast.  To  the  windward  were  the  dusky  forms  of  ten  or 
fifteen  men, — some  standing,  others  sitting  a  la  Turk,  and  others  half- 
reclining  or  quietly  extended  at  full  length  upon  the  ground, — watching 
the  operative  of  the  culinary  department  with  great  seeming  interest. 

Enchairing  myself  upon  a  small  log,  I  began  to  survey  the  surrounding 
objects.  In  the  back  ground  stood  four  large  Connestoga  waggons,  with 
ample  canvass  tops,  and  one  dearborn,  all  tastefully  drawn  up  in  crescent 
form.  To  the  right  a  small  pyramid-shaped  tent,  with  its  snow-white 
covering,  disclosed  itself  to  the  eye,  and  presented  an  air  of  comfort.  To 
the  left  the  caravan  animals,  securely  picketed,  at  regular  distances  of  some 
fifteen  yards  apart,  occupied  an  area  of  several  acres.  Close  at  hand  a 
crystal  streamlet  traced  its  course,  murmuring  adown  the  valley ;  and  still 
beyond,  a  lovely  grove  waved  its  branches  in  the  breeze,  and  contributed 
its  willing  mite  to  enliven  and  beautify  the  scene.  The  camp-fires  in 
front,  formed  a  kind  of  gateway  to  a  small  enclosure,  shut  in  as  above 
described.  Here  were  congregated  the  company,  or  at  least,  that  portion 
of  it  yet  arrived.  Some  had  already  spread  their  easily  adjusted  couches 
upon  the  ground,  in  readiness  for  the  coming  night,  and  seemed  only  await- 
ing supper  to  forget  their  cares  and  troubles  in  the  sweet  embrace  of  sleep. 
Every  thing  presented  such  an  air  of  primitive  simplicity  not  altogether 
estranged  to  comfort,  I  began  to  think  it  nowise  marvellous  that  this 
mode  of  life  should  afford  such  strong  attractions  to  those  inured  to  it. 

Supper  disposed  of,  the  area  within  camp  soon  became  tenanted  by  the 
devotees  of  slumber, — some  snoring  away  most  melodiously,  and  others 
conversing  in  an  animated  tone,  now  jovial,  now  grave,  and  at  intervals, 
causing  the  night-air  to  resound  with  merry  peals  of  laughter.  At  length 
the  sleep-god  began  to  assert  his  wonted  supremacy,  and  silence  in  some 
measure  reigned  throughout  camp. 

The  bed  of  a  mountaineer  is  an  article  neither  complex  in  its  nature  nor 
difficult  in  its  adjustment.  A  single  buffalo  robe  folded  double  and  spread 
upon  the  ground,  with  a  rock,  or  knoll,  or  some  like  substitute  for  a  pillow, 
furnishes  the  sole  base- work  upon  which  the  sleeper  reclines,  and,  envel- 
oped in  an  additional  blanket  or  robe,  contentedly  enjoys  his  rest.  Wishing 
to  initiate  myself  to  the  new  mode  of  life  before  me,  I  was  not  slow  to  imi- 
tate the  example  of  the  promiscuous  throng,  and  the  lapse  of  a  few  moments 
found  me  in  a  fair  way  to  pass  quite  pleasantly  my  first  night's  repose  in 
the  open  air. 

With  the  first  gray  of  morning  I  arose  refreshed  and  invigorated,  nor 
even  suffered  the  slightest  ill  effect  from  my  unusual  exposure  to  a  humid 
and  unwholesome  night-air.  The  whole  camp,  soon  after,  began  to  disclose 
a  scene  of  cheerfulness  and  animation.  The  cattle  and  horses,  unloosed 
from  their  fastenings,  and  accompanied  by  keepers,  were  again  permitted 
to  roam  at  large,  and  in  a  short  time  were  most  industriously  engaged  in 
administering  to  the  calls  of  appetite. 

After  breakfast  I  improved  the  opportunity  to  look  about  and  scan  more 
closely  the  appearance  of  my  compagnons  de  voyage.  This  opened  to  view 
a  new  field  for  the  study  of  men  and  manners. 

A  mountain  company  generally  comprises  some  quaint  specimens  of 
human  nature,  and,  perhaps,  few  more  so  than  the  one  to  which  I  here 


18      CHARACTER  AND  COSTUME  OF  MOUNTAINEERS. 

introduce  the  reader.  To  particularize  would  exceed  my  limits,  nor  could 
I  do  full  justice  to  the  subject  in  hand  by  dealing  in  generalities  ; — how- 
ever, I  yield  to  the  latter.  There  are  many  crude  originals  mixed  with  the 
prime  ingredients  of  these  companies.  A  genuiue  mountaineer  is  a 
problem  hard  to  solve.  He  seems  a  kind  of  sui  genus,  an  oddity,  both  in 
dress,  language,  and  appearance,  from  the  rest  of  mankind.  Associated 
with  nature  in  her  most  simple  forms  by  habit  and  manner  of  life,  he 
gradually  learns  to  despise  the  restraints  of  civilization,  and  assimilates 
himself  to  the  rude  and  unpolished  character  of  the  scenes  with  which  he 
is  most  conversant.  Frank  and  open  in  his  manners  and  generous  in  his 
disposition,  he  is,  at  the  same  time,  cautious  and  reserved.  In  his  frankness 
he  will  allow  no  one  to  acquire  an  undue  advantage  of  him,  though  in  his 
generosity,  he  will  oftentimes  expend  the  last  cent  to  assist  a  fellow  in 
need.  Implacable  in  his  hatred,  he  is  also  steadfast  in  his  friendship,  and 
knows  no  sacrifice  too  great  for  the  benefit  of  those  he  esteems.  Free  as 
the  pure  air  he  breathes,  and  proudly  conscious  of  his  own  independence, 
he  will  neither  tyrannize  over  others,  nor  submit  to  be  trampled  upon, — and 
is  always  prepared  to  meet  the  perils  he  may  chance  to  encounter,  with  an 
undaunted  front.  Inured  to  hardship  and  deprivation,  his  wants  are  few, 
and  he  is  the  last  to  repine  at  the  misfortunes  which  so  often  befall  him. 
Patience  becomes  as  it  were  interwoven  with  his  very  nature,  and  he  sub- 
mits to  the  greatest  disasters  without  a  murmur.  His  powers  of  endurance, 
from  frequent  exercise,  attain  a  strength  and  capacity  almost  incredible, — 
such  as  are  altogether  unknown  to  the  more  delicately  nurtured.  His  is  a 
trade,  to  become  master  of  which  requires  a  long  and  faithful  apprentice- 
ship. Of  this  none  seems  more  conscious  than  himself,  and  woe  to  the 
"greenhorn"  who  too  prematurely  assumes  to  be  "journeyman.'5  His 
ideas,  his  arguments,  his  illustrations,  all  partake  of  the  unpolished  sim- 
plicity of  his  associations;  though  abounding  often  in  the  most  vivid 
imagery,  pointed  inferences,  and  luminous  expositions,  they  need  a  key  to 
make  them  intelligible  to  the  novice. 

His  dress  and  appearance  are  equally  singular.  His  skin,  from 
constant  exposure,  assumes  a  hue  almost  as  dark  as  that  of  the 
Aborigine,  and  his  features  and  physical  structure  attain  a  rough  and 
hardy  cast.  His  hair,  through  inattention,  becomes  long,  coarse,  and 
bushy,  and  loosely  dangles  upon  his  shoulders.  His  head  is  surmounted 
by  a  low  crowned  wool-hat,  or  a  rude  substitute  of  his  own  manufacture. 
His  clothes  are  of  buckskin,  gaily  fringed  at  the  seams  with  strings  of  the 
same  material,  cut  and  made  in  a  fashion  peculiar  to  himself  and  asso- 
ciates. The  deer  and  buffalo  furnish  him  the  required  covering  for  his 
feet,  which  he  fabricates  at  the  impulse  of  want.  His  waist  is  encircled 
with  a  belt  of  leather,  holding  encased  his  butcher-knife  and  pistols — while 
from  his  neck  is  suspended  a  bullet-pouch  securely  fastened  to  the  belt  in 
front,  and  beneath  the  right  arm  hangs  a  powder-horn  transversely  from  his 
shoulder,  behind  which,  upon  the  strap  attached  to  it,  are  affixed  his  bullet- 
mould,  ball-screw,  wiper,  awl,  &c.  With  a  gun-stick  made  of  some 
hard  wood,,  and  a  good  rifle  placed  in  his  hands,  carrying  from  thirty  to 
thirty-five  balls  to  the  pound,  the  reader  will  have  before  him  a  correct  like- 
_  ness  of  a  genuine  mountaineer,  when  fully  equipped. 

This  costume  prevails  not  only  in  the  mountains  proper,  but  also  in  the 


THE  COMMANDANT.  19 

less  settled  portions  of  Oregon  and  California.  The  mountaineer  is  his  own 
manufacturer,  tailor,  shoemaker,  and  butcher ;  and,  fully  accoutred  and  sup- 
plied with  ammunition  in  a  good  game  country,  he  can  always  feed  and  clothe 
himself,  and  enjoy  all  the  comforts  his  situation  affords.  No  wonder,  then, 
his  proud  spirit,  expanding  with  the  intuitive  knowledge  of  noble  inde- 
pendence, becomes  devotedly  attached  to  those  regions  and  habits  that  per- 
mit him  to  stalk  forth,  a  sovereign  amid  nature's  lovliest  works. 

Our  company,  however,  were  not  all  mountaineers  ;  some  were  only 
"  entered  apprentices,"  and  others  mere  "  greenhorns  " — taking  every  thing 
into  consideration,  perhaps,  it  was  quite  as  agreeably  composed  as  circum- 
stances would  well  admit  of.  In  glancing  over  the  crowd,  I  remarked 
several  countenances  sinister  and  malign,  but  consented  to  suspend  judg- 
ment till  the  character  of  each  should  be  proven  by  his  conduct.  Hence, 
in  the  succeeding  pages,  I  shall  only  speak  of  characters  as  I  hav^e  occa- 
sion to  speak  of  men.  As  a  whole,  the  party  before  me  presented  a  choice 
collection  of  local  varieties, — here  was  the  native  of  France,  of  Canada,  of 
England,  of  Hudson  Bay,  of  Connecticut,  of  Pennsylvania,  of  New  York, 
of  Kentucky,  of  Illinois,  of  Missouri,  and  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  all 
congregated  to  act  in  unison  for  a  specified  purpose.  It  nrght  well  require 
the  pencil  of  Hogarth  to  picture  such  a  motley  group. 

Our  company  had  not  as  yet  attained  its  full  numercial  strength  ;  a  small 
division  of  it  was  some  distance  in  advance,  another  behind,  and  at  least 
two  days  would  be  necessary  to  complete  the  arrangements  prior  to  leaving. 
The  idea  of  spending  two  days  in  camp,  notwithstanding  the  beauty  of  its 
location,  was  by  no  means  agreeable ;  but  as  the  case  was  beyond  remedy, 
I  quietly  submitted,  and  managed  to  while  away  the  tedious  interval  as  best 
I  could. 

A  brief  acquaintance  with  our  commandant,  found  him  a  man  of  small 
stature  and  gentlemanly  deportment,  though  savoring  somewhat  of  arro- 
gance and  self-sufficiency, — faults,  by  the  way,  not  uncommon  in  little 
men.  He  had  been  engaged  in  the  Indian  trade  for  several  years  past,  and 
had  seen  many  "  ups  and  downs "  in  former  life.  Graduating  from 
West  Point  in  his  younger  days,  he  soon  after  received  the  commission  of 
Lieutenant  of  Dragoons,  in  the  U.  S.  Army,  and  served  in  that  capacity  for 
some  six  or  eight  years,  on  the  frontier  and  at  Forts  Gibson  and  Leaven- 
worth. Possessed  of  the  confidence  of  his  men,  his  subsequent  resignation 
was  the  occasion  of  much  regret  with  those  he  had  been  accustomed  to 
command.  The  private  soldier  loved  him  for  his  generous  frankness  and 
readiness  to  overlook  minor  offences,  even  upon  the  first  show  of  peni- 
tence. 

Such  unbounded  popularity  at  length  excited  the  jealousy  of  his  brother 
officers,  and  gave  birth  to  a  combination  against  him,  which  nothing  could 
appease  short  of  his  removal  from  the  army.  Aware  of  his  ardent  tem- 
perament and  strong  party  notions  as  a  politician,  and  equally  violent  upon 
the  opposite  side,  they  managed  to  inveigle  him  into  a  discussion  of  the 
measures  and  plans  of  the  then  administration  of  national  affairs.  Argu- 
ing in  the  excitement  of  feeling,  he  made  use  of  an  unguarded  expression, 
denouncing  the  Chief  Magistrate.  This  was  immediately  noted  down, 
and  charges  were  promptly  preferred  against  him,  for  "  abuse  of  a  superior 
officer!"     The  whole  affair  was  then  referred  to  a  Court  Martial,  composed 


20  COMICAL  APPEARANCE  OF  A  MEXICAN   COMPANY. 

exclusively  of  political  opponents.  The  evidence  was  so  strong  he  had 
little  to  expect  from  their  hands,  and  consequently  threw  up  his  commission, 
to  avert  the  disgrace  of  being  cashiered,  since  which  he  has  been  engaged 
in  his  present  business. 

He  appeared  to  be  a  man  of  general  information,  and  well  versed  in 
science  and  literature.  Indeed,  I  felt  highly  gratified  in  making  an  acquain- 
tance so  far  congenial  to  my  own  taste. 

An  accession  of  two  waggons  and  four  men  having  completed  our 
number,  the  morning  of  September  4th  was  ushered  in  with  the  din  of 
preparations  for  an  immediate  start.  The  lading  of  the  waggons  was  then 
severally  overhauled  and  more  compactly  adjusted,  and  our  arms  were  depos- 
ited with  other  freight  until  such  time  as  circumstances  should  call  for  them. 
All  was  hurry  and  confusion,  and  ofttimes  the  sharp  tone  of  angry  dispute 
arose  above  the  jargon  of  the  tumultuous  throng. 

At  length  the  word  was  given  to  advance,  and  in  an  instant  the  whole 
caravan  was  in  motion ;  those  disconnected  with  the  waggons,  mounted 
upon  horseback,  led  the  van,  followed  by  the  teams  and  their  attendants  in 
Indian  file,  as  the  loose  cattle  and  horses  brought  up  the  rear.  The  scene 
to  me  portrayed  a  novelty  quite  amusing.  I  began  to  think  a  more  comical- 
looking  set  could  scarcely  be  found  any  where ;  but  the  events  of  the  day 
soon  convinced  me  of  my  mistake. 

Travelling  leisurely  along  for  some  six  or  eight  miles,  strange  objects 
were  seen  in  the  distance,  which,  on  nearer  approach,  proved  a  company 
of  Mexican  traders,  on  their  way  to  Independence  for  an  equipment  of  goods. 
As  they  filed  past  us,  I  had  full  scope  for  the  exercise  of  my  risibilities. 

If  a  mountaineer  and  a  mountain  company  are  laughable  objects,  a 
Mexican  and  a  Mexican  company  are  triply  so.  The  first  thing  that  excites 
attention  upon  meeting  one  of  this  mongrel  race,  is  his  ludicrous  apology 
for  pantaloons.  This  is  generally  made  of  deer  or  buffalo  skin,  similar  to 
our  present  fashion,  except  the  legs,  which  are  left  unsewed  from  the  thigh 
downwards  ;  a  loose  pair  of  cotton  drawers,  cut  and  made  in  like  manner, 
and  worn  beneath,  imparts  to  his  every  movements  a  most  grotesque  appear- 
ance, leaving  at  each  step  of  the  wearer  his  denuded  leg,  with  that  of  his 
pantaloons  on  one  side,  and  drawers  on  the  other,  fluttering  in  the  breeze ! 
The  next  thing  that  meets  the  gaze,  is  his  black,  slouching,  broad-brimmed 
hat,  (sombrero.)  though  little  darker  than  the  features  it  obscures,  and  far 
less  so  than  the  coarse,  jet-colored  hair  that  protrudes  from  beneath  it,  and 
falls  confusedly  upon  his  shoulders.  Next,  if  the  weather  tolerates  the 
habit,  a  coarse  parti-colored  blanket  (cliarape)  envelopes  the  body,  from  his 
shoulders  downwards,  fixed  to  its  place  by  an  aperture  in  the  centre  through 
which"  the  head  is  thrust,  and  securely  girted  at  pleasure  by  a  waist-band 
of  leather.  His  arms,  if  arms  he  has,  consist  of  a  rude  bow  and  arrows 
slung  to  his  back,  or  an  old  fusee,  not  unfrequently  without  flint,  lock,  or 
ammunition  ;  but  doubly  armed,  and  proudly,  too.  is  iie  who  can  carry  a  good 
rifle  with  powder  and  lead — even  if  he  be  ignorant  of  their  use. 

Thus  appearing,  these  creatures,  some  mounted  upon  mules,  with  heavy 
spurs  attached  to  their  heels,  (bearing  gafTs  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  jin- 
gling in  response  to  the  rolling  motions  of  the  wearer,)  ensconced  in  bungling 
Spanish  saddles,  (finished  with  such  ample  leather  skirts  as  almost  hid  the 
diminutive  animal  that  bore  them,  and  large  wooden  stirrups,  some  three 


WAGON  TRAIN.—Page  30. 


A  STORM.  21 


inches  broad,)  were  riding  at  their  ease  ;  while  others,  half  naked,  were 
trudging  along  on  foot,  driving  their  teams,  or  following  the  erratic  mules 
of  the  caravan,  to  heap  upon  them  the  ready  maledictions  of  their  prolific 
vocabulary.     Passing  on,  we  were  accosted  : 

"  Como  lo  pasa,  cabelleros  ?" 

The  salutation  was  returned  by  a  simple  nod. 

"  Habla  la  lengua  Espanola,  senors  ?" 

A  shake  of  the  head  was  the  only  response. 

"  Es  esta  el  camino  de  Independenca  ?" 
!    No  reply. 

"  Carraho !  Que  quantos  jornadas  tenemos  en  la  camino  de  Indepen- 
denca ?" 

Still  no  one  answered. 

u  Scha  !  Maldijo  tualmas  !  Los  Americanos  esta  dijabelo !" 

By  this  time  the  crowd  had  passed  and  left  us  no  longer  annoyed  by  its 
presence.  The  conclusion  irresistibly  forced  itself  upon  my  mind,  "  if 
these  are  true  specimens  of  Mexicans,  it  is  no  wonder  they  incite  both  the 
pity  and  contempt  of  the  rest  of  the  world."  Subsequent  intercourse  with 
them,  however,  has  served  to  convince  me  that  first  impressions,  in  this 
case,  instead  of  exceeding  the  reality,  fell  far  short  of  the  true  mark  ! 

Continuing  our  course,  we  saw  large  numbers  of  prairie-hens,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  killing  several.  These  birds  assimilate  the  English  grouse  in 
appearance,  and  are  of  a  dusky-brown  color, — with  short  tails,  and  narrow- 
peaked  wings, — and  little  less  in  size  than  the  domestic  fowl.  Their  flesh 
is  tender  and  of  superior  flavor.  When  alarmed,  they  start  with  a  cack- 
ling noise,  and  whiz  through  the  air  not  unlike  the  partridge.  They  are 
very  numerous  on  the  frontier  prairies,  and  extend  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, Oregon,  California  and  New  Mexico. 

About  sundown  we  reached  a  small  creek  known  as  Elm  Grove,  and 
encamped  for  the  night,  with  every  indication  of  an  approaching  storm. 
Strict  orders  were  accordingly  given  for  securing  the  animals,  and  the 
process  of  "picketing"  was  speedily  under  way.  This  consisted  in 
driving  small  stakes  ("pickets")  firmly  into  the  ground,  at  proper  dis- 
tances apart,  to  which  the  animals  were  severally  tied  by  strong  cords, — a 
plan  that  should  find  nightly  practice  among  all  travellers  of  the  grand 
prairies,  to  prevent  those  losses  which,  despite  the  utmost  precaution,  will 
not  unfrequently  occur. 

Timber  proved  quite  scarce  in  this  vicinity,  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty 
we  procured  sufficient  for  cooking  purposes.  The  men  now  began  to 
prepare  for  the  coming  storm.  Some  disposed  of  themselves  in,  and 
others  under,  the  waggons,  making  barricades  to  the  windward ;  others 
erected  shantees,  by  means  of  slender  sticks,  planted  in  parallel  rows  five 
or  six  feet  apart,  and  interwoven  at  the  tops,  so  as  to  form  an  arch  of 
suitable  height,  over  which  was  spread  a  roofage  of  robes  or  blankets, — 
while  others,  snugly  ensconced  beneath  the  ready  pitched  tent,  bade  de- 
fiance to  wind  and  weather. 

Being  one  of  those  selecting  a  place  under  the  waggons,  I  retired  at  an 
early  hour  to  snooze  away  the  night ;  and  despite  the  anticipations  of  an 
unpleasant  time,  I  soon  lost  myself  in  a  sweet  slumber,  utterly  uncon- 
scious of  every  thing  around  me.    In  thoughts  I  wandered  back  to  the 


22  AN  INDIAN  BATTLE. 

home  of  my  childhood,  to  converse  with  friends  whose  names  and  features 
fond  memory  has  chained  to  my  heart,  while  imagination  roamed  with 
delight  amid  those  scenes  endeared  to  me  by  earliest  and  most  cherished 
recollections.  But  all  the  sweet  pencillings  of  fancy  were  at  once  spoiled 
by  the  uncivil  intrusion  of  a  full  torrent  of  water,  that  came  pouring  from 
the  hill-side  and  forced  its  impetuous  way  into  the  valley  below, — deluging 
me  from  head  to  foot  in  its  descent.  My  condition,  as  the  reader  may 
well  suppose,  was  far  from  being  enviable.  However,  resolved  to  make 
the  best  of  a  bad  thing,  after  wringing  the  water  from  my  drenched  bed- 
ding, I  selected  another  spot  and  again  adjusted  myself  to  pass  the  dreary 
interval  till  morning ;  this  I  succeeded  in  doing, — how  or  in  what  man- 
ner, it  is  unnecessary  to  say.  Sleep  was  utterly  out  of  the  question,  and 
I  am  quite  sure  I  never  hailed  the  welcome  morn  with  greater  delight 
than  on  this  occasion. 

Otlfcrs  of  the  company  fared  almost  as  bad  as  myself,  and  there  was 
scaroely  a  dry  bed  in  camp.  But  the  little  concern  evinced  by  the  moun- 
taineers for  their  mishap,  surprised  me  most.  They  crawled  from  their 
beds,  reeking  with  wet,  as  good  humoredly  as  though  their  nocturnal  bath 
had  in  no  wise  disturbed  their  equanimity,  or  impaired  their  comfort. 

The  morning  proved  so  disagreeable  two  of  our  party,  who  were  accompa- 
nying us  for  the  purpose  of  adventure,  concluding  this  a  kind  of  adventure 
they  were  unwilling  to  meet,  wisely  resolved  to  take  the  back  track,  and 
accordingly  left  for  home.  Towards  night  the  rain  ceased,  and,  the  clouds 
having  dispersed,  we  were  again  en  route.  Travelling  on  till  late,  we 
encamped  in  the  open  prairie,  and  early  the  next  morning  resumed  our 
course.  Having  reached  a  small  creek,  about  10  o'clock,  we  halted  for 
breakfast,  where  another  Santa  Fe  company  came  up.  This  proved  a 
party  of  Americans,  with  some  six  or  eight  waggons  and  a  large  number 
of  horses  and  mules,  on  their  homeward  journey.  They  had  also  in  their 
possession  an  elk  nearly  full  grown,  two  black-tailed  deer,*  an  antelope 
and  a  white-tailed  fawn. 

Through  them  we  received  intelligence  of  a  battle  recently  fought  be- 
tween the  Pawnee  and  Arapaho  Indians,  at  the  lower  Cimarone  Springs, 
south  of  the  Arkansas.  The  former  had  been  defeated  with  greai 
slaughter, — losing  their  horses  and  seventy-two  of  their  bravest  war- 
riors, to  increase  the  trophies  and  enliven  the  scalp-dances  of  their  ene- 
mies. This  action  occurred  directly  upon  the  Santa  Fe  trail,  and  the  dead 
yet  bestrewed  the  prairie,  as  our  informants  passed,  half  devoured  by 
wolves,  and  filling  the  air  with  noisome  stench  as  they  wasted  beneath 
the  influence  of  a  scorching  sun. 

An  approving  murmur  ran  through  the  crowd  while  listening  to  the  re- 
cital, and  all  united  to  denounce  the  Pawnees  as  a  dangerous  and  villan- 
ous  set,  and  wished  for  their  utter  extermination. 

*  The  black-tailed  deer  are  larger  than  the  common  deer,  and  are  found  only  in 
the  snow-mountains.  For  a  description  of  them  the  reader  is  referred  to  subsequent 
pages. 


23 


CHAPTER  III. 

The  Pottowatomies. — Crossing  the  Wakarousha. — Adventure  at  the  Springs.— The 
Caw  chief.— Kansas  river  and  Indians.— Pleading  for  whiskey.— Hickory  timber. 
— Prairie  tea. — Scenes  at  the  N.  Fork  of  Blue. — Wild  honey. — Return  party. — 
Mountaineers  in  California. — Adventure  with  a  buffalo. — India*  atrocities. — 
Liquor  and  the  Fur  Trade.— Strict  guard.— High  prices. 

Continuing  our  course,  we  bore  to  the  right,  and  struck  the  northern 
or  Platte  trail,  and,  after  travelling  eight  or  ten  miles,  made  camp  upon  a 
small  creek  skirted  with  heavy  timber,  called  Black  Jack.  An  early  start 
the  next  morning  brought  us  to  the  Wakarousha,  a  considerable  tributary 
of  the  Kansas,  where  a  junction  was  formed  with  our  advance  party.  The 
territory  lying  upon  this  stream  as  far  south  as  Council  Grove,  (a  noted 
place  on  the  Mexican  trail,  144  miles  west  from  Independence,)  belongs 
to  the  Pottowatomies.  These  Indians  are  very  wealthy  and  are  partially 
civilized, — the  most  of  them  being  tillers  of  the  ground.  Their  dwellings 
are  of  very  simple  construction, — large  strips  of  bark  firmly  tied  to  a 
frame-work  of  poles  with  small  apertures  to  admit  light,  furnishing  the  ex- 
terior, while  the  interior  is  finished  by  the  suspension  of  two  or  three 
blankets  between  the  apartments,  as  partitions,  and  erecting  a  few  scaflblds 
for  bedsteads.  The  fire-place  in  warm  weather  is  out  of  doors,  but  in 
the  winter  it  occupies  the  centre  of  the  building,  from  which  the  smoke- 
unaided  by  jamb  or  chimney — is  left  to  find  its  way -through  an  opening 
in  the  roof.  Some,  however,  are  beginning  to  improve  in  their  style  of 
architecture,  and  now  and  then  we  find  a  tolerably  spacious  and  comforta- 
ble house  among  them. 

The  Catholics  have  several  missionaries  with  this  tribe,  and  are  using 
great  exertions,  if  not  to  ameliorate  their  condition,  at  least,  to  proselyte 
them  to  their  own  peculiar  faith.  The  missionaries  of  other  christian 
denominations  are  also  devoting  themselves  for  their  benefit,  and  not  un- 
frequently  with  gratifying  success. 

The  remainder  of  the  day  was  occupied  in  crossing  the  creek — a  task 
by  no  means  easy, — its  banks  being  so  precipitous  we  were  compelled  to 
lower  our  waggons  by  means  of  ropes.  In  so  doing  it  required  the  utmost 
caution  to  prevent  them  from  oversetting  or  becoming  broken  in  the  ab- 
rupt descent 

The  night  following  was  passed  upon  the  opposite  bank.  After  travel- 
ling some  twelve  miles  the  next  day,  we  encamped  a  short  distance  to  the 
right  of  the  trail,  at  a  place  known  as  the  Springs.  Scarcely  had  we 
halted  when  two  footmen  appeared  from  an  opposite  direction — one  of 
them  leading  a  horse — whom  a  nearer  advance  proved  to  be  a  white  man 
and  an  Indian.  The  former  was  immediately  recognized  by  our  engages 
as  an  old  acquaintance,  by  the  name  of  Brown,  who  had  been  their  recent 
compagnon  de  voyage  from  the  mountains.  His  story  was  soon  told.  A 
few  days  subsequent  to  his  arrival  in  the  States*  a  difficulty  had  occurred 

3 


KANSAS  INDIANS. 

between  him  and  another  person,  who  received  a  severe  wound  from  a 
knife  by  the  hand  of  Brown  during  the  affray,  when  the  latter  was  ne- 
cessitated to  consult  his  own  safety  by  a  hurried  flight.  He  accordingly 
bade  farewell  both  to  enemies^and  law,  and  left  for  the  Indian  country — 
travelling  most  of  the  way  by  night.  Two  weeks  afterwards  he  arrived 
in  the  Kansas  nation,  and  remained  with  the  Indian  now  accompanying 
him,  to  await  our  return. 

Having  listened  to  his  story,  I  began  to  survey  his  strange  companion. 
He  was  a  village  chief  of  the  Kansas  (Caw)  tribe,  and  the  first  of  his  race 
I  had  ever  seen  so  nearly  dressed  in  his  native  costume.  In  person  he 
was  tall  and  stout-built, — with  broad  shoulders  and  chest,  brawny  arms 
and  legSj  and  features  evincing  the  uncontaminated  blood  of  the  Aborigi- 
ne. His  hair  was  closely  shaved  to  the  scalp,  with  the  exception  of  a 
narrow  tuft  centrewise  from  forehead  to  crown,  so  trimmed  it  stood  on  end 
like  the  bristles  of  a  warring  hog;  then  his  whole  head  and  face  were  so 
lavishly  bedaubed  with  vermilion,  our  experienced  city  belles  would  doubt- 
less have  considered  it  an  unpardonable  waste  of  that  useful  material! 

A  string  of  bears'-claws,  tastefully  arranged,  encircled  his  neck,  while 
ample  folds  of  brass  wire  above  the  wrists  and  elbows  furnished  his  armil- 
lary,  and  from  his  ears  hung  rude  ornaments, — some  of  silver,  others  of 
brass  or  iron — cruelly  distending  the  flexible  members  that  bore  them.  A 
dirty  white  blanket  drawn  closely  around  the  shoulders  enveloped  the 
body,  which,  with  a  breech-cloth  and  leggins,  formed  his  sole  covering.  A 
bow  and  arrows,  slung  to  his  back  by  a  strap  passing  over  the  left  shoul- 
der and  under  the  right  arm,  were  his  only  weapons.  A  belt,  begirting 
the  waist,  sustained  his  tobacco-pouch  and  butcher-knife,  and  completed 
his  attire  and  armament. 

Thus  habited  appeared  before  us  the  Caw  chief,  holding  in  one  hand  the 
lead-rope  of  his  horse,  and  in  the  other  the  wing  of  a  wild  turkey,  with  a 
a  long-stemmed  pipe,  carved  from  a  hard  red  stone,  handsomely  wrought  and 
finely  polished.  Taken  altogether,  he  presented  an  amusing  spectacle — 
a  real  curiosity. 

Having  shaken  hands  with  the  company  and  turned  his  horse  to  graze,  in 
a  few  moments  his  pipe  was  subjected  to  its  destined  use,  and,  as  the  inhaled 
fumes  merrily  curved  from  his  mouth  and  nostrils,  he  ever  and  anon  pre- 
sented it  for  the  indulgence  of  the  bystanders.  His  knowledge  of  English 
was  limited  to  the  simple  monosyllable  "  good,"  which  he  took  occasion  to 
pronounce  at  intervals  as  he  thought  proper. 

Sept.  8th.  Continuing  on,  we  encamped  towards  night  at  a  small  creek 
within  six  miles  of  the  crossing  of  the  Kansas  river.  Here  a  bevy  of  our 
chief's  villagers,  rigged  in  their  rude  fashion,  came  flocking  up,  apparently 
to  gratify  their  curiosity  in  gazing  at  us,  but  really  in  expectation  of  some 
trifling  presents,  or  in  quest  of  a  favorable  opportunity  for  indulging 
their  inate  propensities  for  theft.  However,  they  found  little  encourage- 
ment, as  the  vigilance  of  our  guards  more  than  equalled  the  cunning  of  our 
visitors.  During  their  stay  we  were  frequently  solicited  for  donations  of 
tobacco  and  ammunition,  (as  they  expressed  it,)  in  payment  for  passing 
through  their  country.  This  was  individually  demanded  with  all  the  assu- 
rance of  government  revenue  officers,  or  the  keepers  of  regular  toll-bridges, 
strongly  reminding  one  of  the  petty  nations  upon  the  border?  of  Canaan, 


PLEADING  FOR  WHISKEY.  25 

that  required  tribute  of  the  Israelites  passing  through  them  to  possess  the 
land  of  their  forefathers. 

Sept.  9th.  Early  in  the  forenoon  we  came  to  the  Kansas,  and  were  em- 
ployed till  nearly  night  in  effecting  a  ford.  This  proved  rather  difficult,  as 
the  water  was  deep  and  the  bottom  sandy ; — the  course,  bearing  directly 
across,  till  near  midway  of  the  river,  follows  the  current  for  six  or  eight 
hundred  yards,  and  then  turns  abruptly  to  the  opposite  shore.  The  Kansas, 
at  the  crossing,  was  not  far  from  six  hundred  yards  wide,  with  steep  banks 
of  clay  and  sand.  The  fording  accomplished,  we  travelled  some  six  miles, 
and  encamped  for  the  night.  Our  visitors  yet  honored  us  with  their  pres- 
ence ;  some,  under  pretence  of  trading  horses ;  others,  of  bartering  for 
tobacco,  whiskey,  coffee,  and  ammunition ;  but  most  of  them  for  the  real 
purpose  of  begging  and  stealing. 

The  Caw  Indians  are  a  branch  of  the  Osage  tribe — speaking  the  same 
language,  and  identified  by  the  same  manners  and  customs.  They  num- 
ber a  population  of  sixteen  hundred,  and  claim  all  the  territory  west  of  the 
Delaware,  Shawnee,  and  Potto watomie  line,  to  the  head  waters  of  the 
Kansas.  Their  main  village  is  on  the  left  Dank  of  the  river,  a  few  miles 
above  the  crossing.  Their  houses  are  built  Pawnee  fashion,  being  coni- 
form and  covered  with  a  thick  coat  of  dirt,  presenting  a  hole  at  the  apex  to 
emit  the  smoke,  and  another  at  the  side  to  serve  the  double  purpose  of  a 
door  and  window.  The  whole  building  describes  a  complete  circle,  in 
whose  centre  is  placed  the  hearth-fire,  and  at  the  circumference  the  couches 
of  its  inmates.  Its  floor  is  the  bare  ground,  and  its  ceiling  the  grass,  brush, 
and  poles  which  uphold  the  superincumbent  earth  forming  the  roof  and 
sides. 

The  Caws  are  generally  a  lazy  and  slovenly  people,  raising  but  little 
corn,  and  scarcely  any  vegetables.  For  a  living  they  depend  mostly  upon 
the  chase.  Their  regular  hunts  are  in  the  summer,  fall,  and  winter,  at 
which  time  they  all  leave  for  the  buffalo  range,  and  return  laden  with  a 
full  supply  of  choice  provisions.  The  robes  and  skins  thus  obtained, 
furnish  their  clothing  and  articles  for  traffic. 

As  yet,  civilization  has  made  but  small  advances  among  them.  Some, 
however,  are  tolerably  well  educated,  and  a  Protestant  mission  established 
with  them,  is  beginning  its  slow  but  successful  operations  for  their  good, — 
while  two  or  three  families  of  half-breeds,  near  by,  occupy  neat  houses,  and 
have  splendid  farms  and  improvements,  thus  affording  a  wholesome  contrast 
to  the  poverty  and  misery  of  their  rude  neighbors. 

The  distance  from  Independence  to  this  place,  by  the  mountain  trail,  is 
some  eighty  miles,  over  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  which  I  shall  here- 
after take  occasion  to  notice  more  fully.  Before  leaving,  we  were  further 
increased  by  the  accession  of  two  Canadian  voyageurs — French  of  course. 
Our  force  now  numbered  some  twenty-four — one  sufficiently  formidable  for 
all  the  dangers  of  the  route. 

Sept.  lOtk.  Resuming  our  way,  we  proceeded  till  late  at  night,  still 
attended  by  our  Indian  friends ;  (not  the  originals,  but  a  "  few  more  of  the 
same  sort,"  who  kindly  supplied  their  places, — seeking  to  levy  fresh  drafts 
upon  patience  and  generosity.)  These  were  more  importunate  for  liquor  than 
any  preceding  them — though,  in  fact,  the  whole  nation  is  nowise  remiss  in 
their  devotion  to  King  Alcohol.     One  fellow,  in  particular,  exhausted  all  his 


26  '         SCENES  AT  NORTH  FORK  OF  BUTE. 

ingenuity  to  obtain  the  wherewith  to  "wet  his  wliistle"  He  was  a  shriv- 
el-faced  old  man,  and  occasioned  much  sport,  from  his  supplications  in 
broken  English,  which  ran  pretty  much  as  follows: 

"  Big  man,  me.  Chief, — Black  Warrior.  Me,  American  soldier  !  Love 
Americans,  heap.  Big  man,  me !  Love  whiskey,  heap.  White  man 
good.  Whiskey  good.  Love  whiskey,  me, — drink  heap  whiskey.  No 
give  me  whiskey  drink  ?  Me,  Chief.  Me,  American.  Me,  Black  War- 
rior. Heap  big  man,  me !  Love  Americans.  Take  him  hand,  shake. 
White  man  good.  Whiskey  good.  Me  love  whiskey  !  Love  him  heap ! 
No  give  Black  Warrior  whiskey  ?  No  ? — one  leetle  drink  ?  Whiskey 
good.  Me  love  him.  Make  Black  Warrior  strong.  Big  man,  me, — 
Chief.  American  soldier.  Me  love  American.  Shake  him  hand.  Fight 
him,  bad  Indian,  no  love  white  man.  Kill  him.  White  man  good.  Me 
love  white  man.  Whiskey  good.  Me  love  whiskey.  No  give  Black 
Warrior  whiskey, — one  leetle  drink  ?     Me,  Chief.     Big  man,  me."  Etc. 

In  this  strain  the  old  fellow  continued  so  long  as  he  found  listeners,  but 
without  success,  although,  as  I  afterwards  learned,  two  waggons  were 
freighted  with  the  noxious  article ;  none  of  it  was  suffered  to  find  its  way 
down  the  throats  of  our  thirsty  guests. 

Pursuing  a  westerly  course,  nearly  parallel  with  the  Kansas,  for  three 
successive  days,  we  passed  the  14th  encamped  at  Big  Vermilion,  for  the 
purpose  of  procuring  a  quantity  of  hickory  for  gun-sticks  and  bow-timber. 
Hickory  is  unknown  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  this  being  the  last  place 
on  the  route  affording  it,  each  of  our  company  took  care  to  provide  himself 
with  an  extra  gun-stick.  Small  pieces,  suitable  for  bows,  find  market 
among  the  mountain  Indians,  ranging  at  the  price  of  a  robe  each, 
while  gun-sticks  command  one  dollar  apiece,  from  the  hunters  and  trap- 
pers. 

We  were  also  careful  to  provide  an  extra  quantity  of  ox-bows,  axle-trees, 
&c,  as  a  resource  in  case  of  accidents  or  breakage.  These  are  articles 
with  which  every  caravan  should  be  furnished  on  a  journey  across  the 
grand  prairies. 

In  this  vicinity  a  species  of  shrub,  which  I  had  before  noticed  in  various 
places,  (designated  as  "red-root"  by  our  voyage  urs,)  became  quite  abundant. 
The  red-root  is  highly  esteemed  as  a  substitute  for  tea,  and  my  own  expe- 
rience attests  its  superiority  of  flavor  to  any  article  of  that  kind  imported 
from  China.  In  appearance  it  is  very  similar  to  the  tea  of  commerce,  and 
it  affords  at  all  times  a  most  excellent  beverage.  It  is  found  only  upon  the 
prairies  between  the  frontiers  and  Big  Blue,  and  in  some  portions  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 

Leaving  Big  Vermilion,  we  travelled  rapidly  the  two  days  subsequent, 
and  arrived  at  the  North  Fork  of  Blue, — a  large  and  deep  stream,  tributary  to 
the  Kansas.  We  were  here  detained  till  the  24th — the  creek  being  im- 
passable on  account  of  high  water. 

However,  the  beauty  of  the  place  and  variety  of  its  landscape  scenery, 
served  in  a  great  measure  to  alleviate  the  weariness  of  delay.  The  coun- 
try was  most  agreeably  interspersed  with  hills,  uplands,  and  dales — amply 
watered  and  variegated  with  woods  and  prairies,  attired  in  all  the  gaudy 
loveliness  of  wild-flowers.  The  busy  bee,  afraid  of  the  cruel  persecutions 
of  man,  had  here  sought  a   secure  retreat  to   pursue,   unmolested,   her 


ADVENTURE  WITH  A  BUFFALO.  27 

melliferous  employ,  and  fill  the  dark  chambers  of  her  oaken  palaces  year 
by  year  with  honeyed  stores.  The  air  was  almost  vocal  with  the  music  of 
her  wings,  and  the  flowerets  were  enlivened  by  the  gentle  touches  of  her 
embrace.  The  odor  of  honey  filled  the  breeze,  which,  wafting  the  mingled 
melody  of  birds  and  insects  with  the  incense  of  flowers,  o'er  the  smiling 
prairie  till  lost  in  space,  seemed  more  like  the  breath  of  Eden  than  the 
exhalations  of  earth. 

As  might  be  supposed,  we  were  not  slow  in  levying  upon  the  delicious 
stores,  which  the  industrious  insects,  claiming  this  as  their  dominion,  had 
laid  away  for  themselves.  During  our  stay  no  less  than  four  bee-trees 
were  levelled,  and  every  pan,  kettle,  pail,  keg,  or  empty  dish  in  the  whole 
camp  was  filled  to  overflowing,  and  every  stomach  to  repletion*  with  honey 
of  almost  crystalline  transparency.  The  great  abundance  of  deer,  turkey, 
and  other  game  in  the  vicinity,  also  contributed  their  share  of  amusement, 
and  enlivened  the  interval  of  detention. 

At  length,  by  a  partial  subsidence  of  the  water,  we  were  enabled  to  effect 
a  crossing  and  renew  our  journey.  Pursuing  a  course  W.  N.  W.,  on  the 
27th  we  met  a  small  party  of  whites  on  their  return  from  the  mountains, 
and,  yielding  to  the  temptation  presented  by  a  luxuriant  and  well-wooded 
valley,  with  a  pretty  streamlet,  the  two  parties  made  common  camp.  Our 
new  acquaintances  were  taking  a  large  drove  of  horses,  and  several  do- 
mesticated buffalo,  with  them  to  the  States.  Their  horses  had  been  mostly 
obtained  from  Upper  California,  the  year  previous,  by  a  band  of  mountain- 
eers, under  the  lead  of  one  Thompson.  This  band,  numbering  twenty-two 
in  all,  had  made  a  descent  upon  the  Mexican  ranchos  and  captured  between 
two  and  three  thousand  head  of  horses  and  mules.  A  corps  of  some  sixty 
Mexican  cavalry  pursued  and  attacked  them,  but  were  defeated  and  pursued 
in  turn,  with  the  loss  of  several  mules  and  their  entire  camp  equipage : 
after  which  the  adventurers  were  permitted  to  regain  their  mountain  homes , 
without  further  molestation ;  but,  in  passing  the  cheerless  desert,  between 
the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Colorado,  the  heat,  dust,  and  thirst  were  so  in- 
tolerably oppressive,  that  full  one  half  of  their  animals  died.  The  remain- 
der, however,  were  brought  to  rendezvous,  and  variously  disposed  of,  to  suit 
the  wants  and  wishes  of  their  captors. 

The  buffalo,  in  possession  of  our  wayfaring  friends,  had  been  caught 
while  calves,  and  reared  by  domestic  cows.  They  appeared  as  tame  and 
easily  managed  as  other  cattle.  One  of  them,  a  two-year-old  heifer,  was 
rather  vicious  in  its  habits,  having  been  spoiled,  while  a  calf,  by  the  too 
great  familiarity  of  its  keeper.  After  listening  to  a  full  exposition  of  its 
bad  qualities,  our  commandant  offered  to  bet  he  could  handle,  or  even  ride, 
the  unruly  beast  at  pleasure. 

i{  Can  you  ?"  said  the  owner.     "  Do  it,  and  my  best  horse  is  yours  !" 

"  I  take  all  such  offers!"  returned  the  commandant.  "A  horse  cou'd 
not  be  easier  earned  !"  he  continued,  stepping  towards  the  ill-tutored  ani- 
mal. "  Come,  boss  ! — Poof  boss  ! — bossy,  bossy !"  addressing  the  buffalo, 
which  commenced  advancing, — at  first  slowly,  then,  with  a  sudden  bound, 
ran  full  tilt  against  the  admirer,  leaving  him  prostrate  upon  the  ground,  as 
it  turned  away,  dancing  and  throwing  its  heels  exultingly  at  the  exploit. 

"Bless  my  stars  !"  he  exclaimed,  on  recovering  himself;  "I'd  no  idea 
'twould  serve  me  so !" 

OF-THfe 


28  LIQUOR  AND  THE  FUR  TRADE. 

"Ha,  ha,  ha!"  retorted  the  owner.  "  You  seem  to  pick  upon  a  strange 
place  for  a  snooze  !  What  in  the  world  were  you  doing  before  that  skittish 
beast  ?" 

The  roar  of  laughter  which  followed,  told  how  well  the  joke  was  relished 
by  the  crowd. 

Reports  from  the  mountains  brought  intelligence  of  recent  difficulties 
between  the  whites  and  Sioux, — the  latter  having  murdered  several  trap- 
pers. A  battle  had  also  been  fought  in  the  Snake  country,  in  which  the 
Sioux  were  defeated  with  a  loss  of  twenty  killed  and  wounded, — the  whites 
suffered  in  the  loss  of  their  leader  (Frapp)  and  four  others.  Another 
aftair  had  come  off,  at  Fort  Platte,  between  two  factions  of  that  tribe,  while 
on  a  drunken  spree,  resulting  in  the  death  of  Schena-Chischille,  their 
chief,  and  several  of  his  party. 

The  most  acceptable  item  of  intelligence  was  the  probability  of  our 
reaching  the  buffalo  range  in  ten  days,  at  least,  where  we  should  find  vast 
quantities  of  those  animals.  This  led  our  voyageurs  to  expatiate  anew 
upon  the  choice  varieties  of  the  feast  of  good  things  we  might  expect  on 
that  occasion. 

Bidding  adieu  to  our  transient  camp-mates,  we  were  soon  again  en  route. 
The  day  following,  being  unfit  for  travel,  was  devoted  to  overhauling  and 
re-adjusting  the  freight  of  the  waggons.  Here,  for  the  first  time,  I  ascer- 
tained the  fact,  that  a  portion  of  the  above  consisted  of  no  less  than 
twenty-four  barrels  of  alcohol,  designed  for  the  Indian  trade  ! 

This  announcement  may  occasion  surprise  to  many,  when  aware  that 
the  laws  of  Congress  prohibit,  under  severe  penalties,  the  introduction 
of  liquor  among  the  Indians,  as  an  article  of  traffic, — subjecting  the  of- 
fender to  a  heavy  fine  and  confiscation  of  effects.  Trading  companies, 
however,  find  ways  and  means  to  smuggle  it  through,  by  the  waggon-load, 
under  the  very  noses  of  government  officers,  stationed  along  the  frontiers 
to  enforce  the  observance  of  laws. 

I  am  irresistibly  led  to  the  conclusion,  that  these  gentry  are  wilfully  neg- 
ligent of  their  duty ;  and,  no  doubt,  there  are  often  weighty  inducements 
presented  to  them  to  shut  their  eyes,  close  their  ears,  and  avert  their  faces, 
to  let  the  guilty  pass  unmolested.  It  seems  almost  impossible  that  a  blind 
man,  retaining  the  senses  of  smell,  taste  and  hearing,  could  remain  igno- 
rant of  a  thing  so  palpably  plain.  The  alcohol  is  put  into  waggons,  at 
Westport  or  Independence,  in  open  day-light,  and  taken  into  the  territory, 
in  open  day  light,  where  it  remains  a  week  or  more  awaiting  the  arrival  of 
its  owners.  Two  Government  agents  reside  at  Westport,  while  six  or 
eight  companies  of  Dragoons  are  stationed  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  ostensibly 
for  the  purpose  of  protecting  the  Indians  and  suppressing  this  infamous 
traffic, — and  yet  it  suffers  no  diminution  from  their  vigilance!  What 
faithful  public  officers !  How  prompt  in  the  discharge  of  their  whole 
duty  I 

These  gentlemen  cannot  plead  ignorance  as  an  excuse.  They  wrell 
know  that  alcohol  is  one  of  the  principal  articles  in  Indian  trade — this  fact 
is  notorious — no  one  pretends  to  deny  it ;  not  even  the  traders  themselves — 
and  yet,  because  no  one  takes  the  trouble  to  produce  a  specimen  of  the 
kind  of  freight  taken,  more  or  less,  by  all  mountain  companies,  and  force 
them  to  see,  taste,  touch,  and  smell,  they  affect  ignorance !     It  is  thus  the 


HIGH  PRICES.  29 

benevolent  designs  of  our  Government  are  consummated  by  these  pension- 
ers upon  the  public  treasury  ! 

Had  they  the  will  so  to  do,  it  would  be  no  difficult  matter  to  put  a  stop 
to  all  such  exportations.  The  departure  of  any  one  of  these  companies 
for  the  mountains,  is  a  thing  too  difficult  to  be  effected  unknown  and 
stealthily.  It  becomes  public  talk  for  days  and  even  weeks  previous. 
Scarcely  anything  would  be  easier  than  for  those  whose  business  it  is,  to 
keep  on  the  look  out,  and  enforce  the  law  to  its  full  extent  upon  each  of- 
fender. A  few  examples  of  this  kind  would  interpose  an  insuperable  bar- 
rier to  the  further  prosecution  of  an  illicit  traffic  in  the  manner  it  is  at 
present  carried  on.  A  few  faithful  public  officers,  and  attentive  to  their 
duty,  regardless  of  fear  or  favor,  would  soon  accomplish  an  object  so  de- 
sirable. 

In  subsequent  pages  of  this  work  I  shall  have  occasion  to  notice  a  few 
of  the  many  evils  resulting  from  this  criminal  neglect, — but  at  present 
forbear  further  remarks. 

Our  arms  were  now  put  in  order  for  immediate  use, — each  individual  ap- 
portioning to  himself  a  good  supply  of  ammunition,  to  be  ready  at  all  times 
in  case  of  attack.  Guards  were  ordered  to  be  constantly  on  the  alert. 
The  company  was  divided  into  two  parties, — one  for  day  and  the  other  for 
night  guard,  and  these  again  were  subdivided  fur  alternate  relieves, — thus, 
one  of  each  subdivision  serving  a  day  and  a  night,  and  the  reserve  the 
day  and  night  succeeding.  The  day-guard  consisted  of  only  two  persons, 
upon  duty  every  other  day,  but  the  night-guard  numbered  ten, — two  being 
on  duty  for  two  hours  were  then  relieved  by  the  two  next  in  succession, 
and  they  by  the  next,  and  so  on. 

Strict  orders  were  also  given  to  prevent  any  from  leaving  camp,  or  part- 
ing from  the  caravan  while  travelling.  In  fact,  every  thing  began  to  as- 
sume a  warlike  aspect,  as  if  we  were  really  in  danger  and  apprehensive 
of  an  immediate  rencounter. 

Several  boxes  of  clothing,  &c.,  were  also  opened  for  such  as  wished  to 
purchase.  But  every  article  disposed  of  was  sold  at  an  enormous  rate : 
tobacco  bringing  from  one  to  three  dollars  per  lb.,  according  to  quality ; 
butcher-knives,  from  one  dollar  to  one  fifty  each;  hose,  one  dollar  per 
pair;  shirts,  from  three  to  five  dollars  each,  according  to  quality ;  blank- 
ets, from  twelve  to  sixteen  dollars ;  coats,  from  fifteen  to  forty  dollars; 
coarse  shoes,  four  dollars  per  pair;  six-penny  calicoes,  fifty  cts.  per  yd.; 
beads,  one  dollar  per  bunch,  etc.  These  were  of  an  indifferent  quality, 
and  afforded  the  vender  some  three  or  four  hundred  per  cent,  advance 
upon  purchase-price.  In  fact,  with  regard  to  prices,  conscience  had  no- 
thing to  do  with  the  matter. 


80 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Country  from  the  frontiers  to  Big  Blue,  its  geological  character,  &c. — Novel  cure  for 
fever  and  ague. — Indian  trails. — Game. — Sage  rabbits. — Antelope,  and  their  pe- 
culiarities.— Beaver  cuttings. — Big  Blue  and  its  vicinity. — Dangerous  country. — 
Pawnee  bravery. — Night-alarm,  (Prairies  on  fire.) — Platte  river.- -Predominant 
characteristics  of  the  Grand  Prairies,  and  theory  explanatory  of  their  phenome- 
non.—Something  to  laugh  at.—"  Big  Jim,"  and  the  antelope. 

Sept.  26th.  We  are  now  camped  upon  a  small  creek,  nearly  destitute 
of  timber,  within  two  miles  of  Big  Blue,  or  the  N.  W.  branch  of  the 
Kansas  river.  The  geography  of  this  part  of  the  country  is  incorrectly 
described  upon  all  the  published  maps  I  have  yet  seen.  The  Republican 
Fork,  which  is  the  principal  branch  of  the  Kansas,  is  uniformly  represented 
as  the  most  northwesterly  branch  of  that  river,  forming  a  junction  with  it 
at  or  below  the  usual  crossing.     This  is  not  the  case. 

The  two  forks  of  Blue,  from  the  northwest,  united,  form  a  large  and 
important  stream,  which,  according  to  my  impression,  discharges  its  waters 
into  the  Kansas  itself,  and  not  into  the  Republican.  Of  this,  however,  I 
am  not  quite  positive.  But  be  that  as  it  may,  admitting  the  Republican  to 
be  the  main  stream,  Big  Blue  must  be,  as  a  matter  of  course,  the  most 
northwesterly  branch  of  the  Kansas  river. 

Proceeding  up  the  Blue,  the  geological  character  of  the  country  under- 
goes an  entire  and  radical  change,  and  the  traveller  is  introduced  to  a  differ- 
ent order  of  things  from  that  previously  observed. 

Perhaps,  therefore,  it  is  not  out  of  place  to  present  a  general  review  of 
the  territory  thus  far. 

The  interval  from  the  frontier  of  Missouri  to  Big  Blue,  a  distance  up- 
wards of  two  hundred  miles,  affords  great  uniformity  in  all  its  more  promi- 
nent characteristics.  It  generally  comprises  beautifully  undulating  prai- 
ries, of  a  moist  argillaceous  soil,  rich  in  sedimentary  deposites  and  vege- 
table matter.  It  is  somewhat  rocky  in  places,  but  well  watered  by  the 
almost  innumerable  streams  that  find  their  way  into  the  Kansas,  Platte 
and  Arkansas  rivers.  The  creeks,  with  but  few  exceptions,  are  heavily 
timbered  with  oak,  hickory,  walnut,  maple,  cotton  wood,,  and  other  varieties 
found  in  more  eastern  forests.  The  hills  too,  in  some  parts,  are  more 
than  usually  abundant  in  springs,  and  covered  with  stately  groves,  as  taste- 
fully arranged  as  if  planted  by  the  hand  of  man,  while  luxuriant  grass 
and  fragrant  flowers  usurp  the  place  of  underbrush.  The  prairies,  hem- 
med in  on  every  side  by  the  woodlands  skirting  the  water-courses,  present 
to  the  eye  proud  oceans  of  flowery  verdure,  tossing  their  wavelets  to  the 
breeze  and  perfuming  the  air  with  the  breath  of  spring. 

The  streams  are  clear,  with  rocky  or  pebbly  bottoms  and  high,  steep 
banks — abounding  in  choice  specimens  of  the  finny  tribes  and  varieties  of 
the  testaceous  order,  of  the  genus  musculo.     The  valley  of  the  Kansas  is 


SAGE  RABBITS.  31 

wide  and  of  a  deep  brown  vegetable  mould,  susceptible  of  a  high  state  of 
cultivation.  The  whole  country  is  well  adapted  to  the  double  purpose  of 
agriculture  and  the  growth  of  stock. 

The  prevailing  rock  is  sandstone  of  various  shades  and  compactness, 
with  siliceous  and  fossiliferous  limestone.  These  specifications  are  gene- 
rally exhibited  in  a  detached  and  fragmentary  form,  but  rarely  in  strata  as 
disclosed  upon  the  surface. 

Taken  as  a  whole,  the  territory  holds  out  many  inducements  to  emi- 
grants, and,  whenever  brought  into  market,  will  no  doubt  become  speedily 
and  thickly  populated.* 

Sept.  30th.  We  are  again  under  headway.  A  French  engage,  who 
had  been  suffering  for  several  days  past  from  a  severe  attack  of  the  fever 
and  ague,  experienced  a  sudden  and  novel  cure.  Unable  to  travel,  quar- 
ters were  prepared  for  him  in  one  of  the  whiskey  waggons,  where  he  was 
comfortably  disposed  of  as  we  continued  our  course.  In  passing  a  rough 
place  the  waggon  overset,  when  out  came  the  invalid  head  foremost,  and 
out  came  the  whiskey  barrels  showering  full  upon  him  !  The  suddenness 
of  the  fall,  with  the  surprise  and  excitement  of  the  occasion, — one,  or  both, 
or  all,  or  some  other  cause  unknown,  effected  a  complete  cure, — for  cer- 
tain it  is,  he  did  not  suffer  another  attack  of  the  fever  and  ague  during 
the  whole  journey,  and  the  next  day  was  able  to  discharge  his  duties  as 
well  aw  ever. 

On  striking  the  Big  Blue,  the  mountain  road  bears  a  north-northwest 
course  to  the  head  of  that  stream,  and  from  thence  over  an  interval  of  high- 
lands to  the  Platte  river.  The  distance  travelled  up  the  Blue  requires  some 
eight  days,  for  heavy  waggons.  Continuing  our  way,  about  noon  we  passed 
several  Indian  trails,  in  addition  to  one  ten  or  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  back. 
These  consist  of  a  number  of  well-beaten,  parrallel  foot-paths,  bearing  a 
northwest  and  southwest  direction.  They  are  formed  by  the  passing  and 
repassing  of  the  Otoes,  Iowas,  and  Foxes,  to  and  from  their  hunting 
grounds,  towards  the  head-waters  of  the  Kansas. 

On  the  3d  of  October  we  reached  the  antelope  range,  and  saw  four  or 
five  of  these  animals  scouring  the  boundless  expanse,  or  ascending  some 
favorable  eminence  to  gaze  upon  us.  Slight  signs  of  buffalo  also  appeared, 
and  everything  seemed  to  indicate  the  approach  to  a  game  country. 

Parting  a  short  distance  from  the  trail,  a  large  sage  rabbit  bounded  up 
before  me, — the  first  of  his  species  I  ever  saw.  This  animal  is  nearly 
three  times  the  size  of  the  common  rabbit,  and  of  a  white  color,  slightly 
tinged  with  grey.  It  derives  its  name  from  being  found  principally  in  coun- 
tries abounding  with  absinthe  or  wild  sage.  In  the  regions  adjacent  to  the 
mountains,  these  animals  occur  more  frequently, — and  even  among  the 
mountains,  where  their  tails  and  ears  are  tipped  with  jetty  black.  Their 
fur  is  soft  and  fine, — equalling  if  not  surpassing  that  of  the  Russia  rabbit. 
Their  flesh  is  also  of  a  superior  flavor,  as  I  have  had  opportunities  of 
testing. 

Towards  night,  three  antelope  appearing  near  the  trail,  our  hunter  made 

*  By  a  recent  treaty  with  the  Kansas  Indians,  our  government  has  become  possessed 
of  nearly  the  whole  of  this  beautiful  section. 


32  ANTELOPE  OF  THE  PRAIRIE. 

an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  approach  them,  which  afforded  me  a  first  ink- 
ling of  the  nature  and  character  of  these  animals. 

The  antelope  of  the  grand  prairie  differs  but  little  in  size  and  shape 
from  the  common  sheep,  and  is  coated  with  long,  brittle  hair, — of  a  ruddy- 
brown  color,  except  at  the  tail  and  head,  where  it  is  short  and  white.  The 
female  is  hornless,  except  an  occasional  blunt  corneous  excrescence,  some 
two  or  three  inches  long,  protruding  from  the  head.  The  male,  however, 
is  equipped  with  hook-shaped  antlers,  ebony  colored,  and  six  or  eight  inches 
in  length,  which  he  sheds  annually  in  the  months  of  November  and  De- 
cember. 

This  is  the  fleetest  inhabitant  of  the  prairie.  No  horse  can  compete 
with  it  in  speed.  Quick  of  sight,  keen  of  scent,  and  acute  of  ear,  it 
seems  ever  on  the  alert  at  the  approach  of  real  or  supposed  danger, — now 
swiftly  advancing  towards  the  object  of  its  alarm  or  curiosity, — then  circling 
before  you  with  the  fleetness  of  the  storm-wind,  to  mount  some  eminence  far 
away  beyond  reach,  and  gaze  in  security.  Then,  again,  ere  you  have 
time  to  catch  breath  for  admiration,  it  repeats  its  semi-gyration  from  an 
opposite  direction,  still  nearer  and  swifter,  till  past, — as  if  indeed  borne  on 
the  wings  of  lightning — and  yet  again  surveys  you  in  the  distance.  Now, 
running  from  point,  to  point  it  examines  you  upon  all  sides,  as  it  cautiously 
passes  round, — then,  snuffing  the  breeze,  it  again  calls  to  aid  its  fleetness 
of  limb,  and  with  the  velocity  of  thought  is  lost  to  view  in  the  vast  ex- 
panse. 

Possessed  of  an  inordinate  share  of  inquisitiveness,  it  not  unfrequently 
falls  a  victim  to  its  own  curiosity.  The  hunter,  turbaned  with  a  red  hand- 
kerchief and  half  concealed  behind  some  object,  first  raising,  then  depress- 
ing his  head,  then  withdrawing  it  entirely  from  view,  then  again  disclosing 
it  to  the  curious  animal,  is  almost  certain  to  allure  his  game  within  gun- 
shot. 

I  have  seen  numbers  killed  in  this  manner.  In  the  spring  season  they 
appear  more  sensitive  than  at  any  other  time,  and  are  easily  lured  to  their 
fate. 

With  the  exhibition  of  this  strange  propensity,  I  have  time  and  again 
been  minded  of  its  more  fully  developed  moral  prototype  in  man.  How 
frequently  do  we  see  persons  around  us  who  indulge  their  appetites  and 
passions,  as  often  for  mere  curiosity  as  fancied  pleasure, — venturing  near- 
er and  still  nearer  towards  the  objects  that  command  their  attention  and 
lure  them  into  the  vortex  of  ruin,  till,  with  sure  and  deadly  aim,  the  shafts 
of  the  tempter  pierce  the  waning  vitals  of  morality,  and  plunge  the  vic- 
tims headlong  into  a  yawning  abyss,  where  they  are  lost  to  themselves, 
to  society,  and  to  the  world — lost  forever ! 

Here,  then,  is  furnished  for  us  a  moral : — Beware  how  you  indulge  a 
vain  curiosity  that  lures  to  evil ; — never  parley  with  temptation. 

These  animals  are  found  from  the  Big  Blue  to  the  mountains — in 
Oregon,  California,  Santa  Fe,  and  N.  W.  Texas.  Their  flesh  is  tender 
and  sweety — quite  equal  to  venison,  though  seldom  fat,  owing,  as  is  sup- 
posed, to  their  almost  incessant  mobility. 

Near  our  night-camp  I  noticed  fresh  beaver  "  cuttings,"  some  of  which 
consisted  of  trees,  six  inches  in  diameter,  levelled  by  these  sagacious  ani- 
mals. 


PAWNEE  BRAVERY.  33 

The  vicinity  disclosed  frequent  boulders  of  red  and  dark  ferruginous 
sandstone,  with  a  soil  somewhat  arenose,  reclining  upon  a  changeable 
deposite  of  sand  and  gravel,  succeeded  by  a  substratum  of  parti-colored 
and  friable  sandstone.  The  valley  of  the  Blue  is  bordered  by  hills  of 
graceful  slope,  both  green  and  beautiful. 

I  here  remarked  for  the  first  time  the  appearance  of  cacti,  which  here- 
from becomes  quite  common,  and  proves  the  pest  of  many  places  adjacent 
to  the  mountains. 

The  Blue  is  a  deep,  narrow  stream,  with  a  swift  current,  over  a  bed  of 
gravel  and  pebbles,  and  is  fringed  by  groves  of  oak,  cotton-wood,  and  wil- 
low. Its  valley  is  between  one  and  two  miles  in  width,  with  a  superfice  of 
variable  fertility,  but  generally  consisting  of  good  arable  land. 

This  section  of  country  is  considered  very  dangerous  in  the  summer 
and  fall  months,  on  account  of  the  strolling  bands  of  Pawnees  which  infest 
it.  The  voyageur  holds  the  latter  in  great  dread,  unless  he  chances  to  be 
accompanied  by  a  sufficient  force  to  bid  defiance  to  their  approach.  A 
party,  numerically  weak  and  indifferently  armed,  meets  with  rough  treat- 
ment at  their  hands  while  on  the  open  prairies.  Persons  and  property 
are  rarely  respected,  and  the  unfortunate  traveller  is  not  only  plundered, 
but  often  whipt  or  murdered  without  mercy. 

This,  however,  may  not  be  said  of  all — it  is  only  the  young  warriors, 
when  beyond  the  restraint  of  their  chiefs  and  seniors,  who  perpetrate  such 
outrages  ;  though,  to  their  praise  be  it  said,  instances  of  this  kind  are  quite 
seldom,  at  present,  compared  with  former  years. 

The  courage  of  these  Indians  is  held  in  little  repute  by  mountaineers ; 
and,  that  this  opinion  is  not  unfounded,  the  following  incident  will  prove.  It 
was  related  to  me  by  an  actor  in  the  scene : 

A  small  party  of  whites  on  their  cruise  down  the  Platte  with  a  cargo  of 
furs,  "  lay  by  "  to  make  meat,  near  the  forks  of  that  stream.  Buffalo  be- 
ing at  some  distance  from  camp,  our  adventurers  were  compelled  to  perform 
the  duties  of  pack-horses  in  conveying  the  proceeds  of  their  hunting  ex- 
cursions. One  day,  four  of  them  left  for  this  object,  and  having  proceeded 
some  six  or  eight  miles,  a  war-party  of  Pawnees  suddenly  emerged  from 
behind  an  eminence,  directly  fronting  them.  Alarmed  at  the  unwelcome 
apparition,  and  imagining  the  whole  country  to  be  alive  with  Indians,  they 
immediately  ran,  and  were  pursued  towards  camp.  One  of  the  number,  a 
big,  lazy  fellow,  and  rather  "  green  "  withal,  soon  became  tired,  and  sung 
out  to  his  companions  : 

"  Don't  let's  run  so  fast.     Blast  me,  if  I  can  keep  up !" 

"  Come  on, — come  on  !"  cried  they.  "  A  thousand  '  shaved  heads '  are 
upon  us,  half  frozen  for  hair  !" 

"Pooh  !  I'll  bet  five  dollars  there  aint  thirty  !" 

"  Done !     But,  who'll  count  the  bloody  varmints  ?" 

"Why,  I'll  do  it,  just  for  my  own  satisfaction."  So  saying,  he  wheeled 
and  advanced  towards  the  Pawnees,  as  his  wondering  companions  halted  a 
little  distance  off,  to  learn  the  result  of  his  fool-daring. 

Surprised  at  this  strange  movement,  the  enemy  also  came  to  a  stand, 
affording  a  fine  opportunity  to  ascertain  their  number,  which  only  amounted 
to  nineteen ! 


34  PRAIRIES  ON  FIRE. 

"I've  won !"  exclaimed  our  hero.  "  Let's  charge,  and  give  'em  the  very 
devil!" 

The  word  went  for  command,  and  the  four  hunters  dashed  boldly  towards 
the  terrified  savages,  who  in  turn  fled,  with  greater  velocity  than  they  had 
called  into  exercise  at  any  time  during  their  advance, — illustrating  the 
truth  of  the  saying,  "  tyrants  are  always  cowards."  Legs  proved  quite 
convenient  articles  for  the  Pawnee  braves  !  They  were  out  of  sight  in  a 
few  minutes,  and  were  very  careful  not  to  stop  until  they  had  left  their 
pursuers  far  in  the  rear. 

A  Pawnee  with  a  defenceless  enemy  in  his  power,  like  some  examples 
among  the  whites,  is  unrivalled  in  courage  and  daring ;  but  where  there  is 
resistance  offered,  and  fighting  to  be  done,  he,  as  well  as  the  Irishman's 
chickens,  "  comes  up  missing  /"  He  is  always  bravest  when  farthest 
from  danger. 

We  were  careful  to  observe  the  strictest  vigilance  at  night,  to  prevent 
the  loss  of  horses  from  lurking  bands  of  Indians.  The  animals  of  the 
caravan  were  uniformly  picketed  in  compact  order,  and  sentinels,  posted  at 
suitable  distances,  continued  to  pace  their  rounds,  from  dark  till  daylight ; 
while  each  of  the  company  slept  by  his  arms,  in  readiness  at  any  moment 
to  repel  an  attack. 

Having  travelled  for  seven  successive  days,  we  made  camp  late  in  the 
afternoon  at  the  head  of  the  right  fork  of  Blue. 

During  the  day  we  had  noticed  a  dense  smoke  some  distance  in  the 
rear,  but,  with  the  wind  in  an  opposite  direction,  no  uneasiness  was  felt  on 
that  account.  The  sentries  were  soon  at  their  posts,  and  everything  was 
snugly  disposed  of  for  the  night.  Those  not  on  duty  improved  the  oppor- 
tunity to  gain  respite  from  the  fatigues  of  the  day,  and,  in  a  brief  interval, 
were  snoring  away  at  an  admirable  rate. 

The  polar-star  by  its  "  pointers  "  had  just  told  the  hour  of  midnight, 
when  these  hurried  words  rang  through  the  camp : 

"  Lave,  ho !  Lave  !*  Prairies  on  fire  !  Quick — catch  up  !  catch 
up!" 

This  startling  announcement  instantly  brought  every  man  to  his  feet; — 
and  such  a  scene  as  now  met  the  eye !  How  awful,  and  how  grand !  The 
wind,  new  changed  and  freshened,  to  the  right  and  rear,  was  tossing  the 
flames  towards  us,  rapidly — lighting  the  heavens  with  their  lurid  glare, 
and  transforming  the  darkness  of  night  into  a  more  than  noon-day  splen- 
dor! 

Here  was,  indeed,  an  "  ocean  of  flame  /"  far  as  the  eye  could  reach — 
dancing  with  fiery  wavelets  in  the  wind,  or  rolling  its  burning  surges,  in 
mad  fury,  eager  to  lick  up  every  vestige  of  vegetation  or  semblance  of 
combustible  that  appeared  in  its  way  ! — now  shooting  its  glowing  missiles 
far,  far  ahead,  like  meteors  athwart  the  sky,  or  towering  aloft  from  the 
weeds  and  tall  grass,  describing  most  hideous  and  fantastic  forms,  that, 
moving  with  the  wind,  more  resembled  a  cotillion  of  demons  among  their 
native  flames  than  aught  terrestial ! — then  driving  whole  sheets  of  the 
raging  element  into  the  withered  herbage  in  front,  like  the  advance  scouts 

*  "  I  Ave  "  appears  to  be  a  corruption  of  the  Spanish  word  levar,  to  get  up,  or 
arouse,  as  from  sleep.    It  is  in  common  use  among  mountaineers. 


PLATTE  RIVER  AND  ITS  VICINITY.  35 

of  an  invading  army,  swept  onward  its  desolating  course,  leaving  in  its 
track  naught  save  a  blackened  waste  of  smoking  ruins  ! 

Altogether,  it  was  a  sublime  spectacle,  a  stupendous  scene,  grand  and 
imposing  beyond  description,  and  terrible  in  its  beauty  !  Commingled  with 
sensations  of  wonder  and  admiration,  it  tended  to  impress  the  beholder  with 
feelings  of  painful  melancholy.  The  broad  expanse,  but  a  few  moments 
since  arrayed  in  all  the  mourning  grandeur  of  fading  autumn,  was  now  a 
naked  desert,  and  every  vestige  of  loveliness  in  an  instant  snatched  from 
view! 

How  sudden,  how  awful,  how  marked  the  change  !  and  yet,  how  mag- 
nificent in  its  career,  though  doleful  its  sequel ! 

We  were  speedily  under  way,  with  as  much  earnestness  of  advance  as 
that  of  righteous  Lot,  in  his  escape  from  burning  Sodom.*  For  a  while 
the  pursuing  enemy  kept  even  pace,  and  threatened  to  overtake  us,  till, 
headed  by  the  strong  wind,  which  meanwhile  had  changed  its  course,  it 
began  to  slacken  its  speed  and  abate  its  greediness. 

About  sunrise  we  crossed  the  regular  Pawnee  trails,  (leading  to  and  from 
their  hunting  grounds,  which  bore  the  appearance  of  being  much  fre- 
quented,) and  at  10  o'clock,  A.  M.,  reached  the  Platte  river,  having  trav- 
elled a  distance  of  thirty  miles  without  halting. 

The  mountain  road  strikes  the  above  stream  at  lat.  40°  41'  06"  north,! 
long.  99°  17'  47"  west  from  Greenwich,  some  twenty  miles  below  the! 
head  of  Grand  Island.  This  island  is  densely  wooded  and  broad,  and  extends  j\ 
for  fifty  or  sixty  miles  in  length.  The  river  banks  are  very  sparsely  tim-  !i 
bered,  a  deficiency  we  had  occasion  to  remark  during  the  remainder  of  our  j 
journey.  * 

The  valley  of  the  Platte  at  this  place  is  six  or  seven  miles  wide,  and  the 
river  itself  between  one  an/1  two  miles  from  bank  to  bank.  Its  waters  are 
very  shallow,  and  are  scattered  over  their  broad  bed  in  almost  innumera- 
ble channels,  nearly  obscured  by  the  naked  sand-bars  that  bechequer  its 
entire  course  through  the  grand  prairie.  Its  peculiarity  in  this  respect 
gave  birth  to  the  name  of  Platte,  (shallow,)  which  it  received  from  the 
French,  and  Chartre,  (surface,)  from  the  Mexicans, — the  Indians,  accord- 
ing to  Washington  Irving,  calling  it  Nebraska,]  a  term  synonymous  with 
that  of  the  French  and  Americans,-  -however,  I  am  ignorant  in  reference 
to  the  latter. 

*  The  great  peril  of  our  situation,  and  the  pressing  necessity  of  a  hurried  flight, 
may  be  readily  inferred  from  the  fact,  that  one  waggon  was  freighted  with  a 
large  quantity  of  gunpowder.  None  of  us  were  quite  so  brave  or  present-minded  as 
several  Mexicans,  in  the  employ  of  Messrs.  Bent  <fe  St.  Vrain,  on  an  occasion  some- 
what similar.  While  journeying  across  the  grand  prairies,  the  powder-waggon  acci- 
dentally caught  fire,  which  was  noticed  immediately  by  the  Mexican  attendants,  who 
hurriedly  clasped  it  upon  all  sides,  to  prevent  the  vehicle  from  being  blown  to  pieces, 
while  one  of  them  proceeded  deliberately  to  extinguish  the  flames !  Neither  could 
we  stand  comparison  with  a  lieutenant  of  the  Mexican  army,  at  Santa  Fe,  who,  on 
opening  a  keg  of  powder,  made  use  of  a  red-hot  iron  in  lieu  of  an  auger,  for  that 
purpose.  It  is  needless  to  say,  a  tremendous  explosion  followed.  Several  of  the  by- 
standers were  killed,  but  the  lieutenant  miraculously  escaped.  He  soon  after  receiv- 
ed a  Captain's  commission  from  the  Commander-in-chief,  in  consideration  of  his 
indomitable  courage  !  , 

t  The  Sioux  have  bestowed  the  appellation  of  Duck  river  upon  the  North  Fork  of  > 
Platte.  * 

4 


36  THEORY  RELATIVE  TO  THE  PRAIRIES. 

The  bottom  upon  the  south  bank  is  between  three  and  four  miles  broad, 
and  of  a  light,  deep,  and  rich  soil,  occasionally  sandy,  but  covered  with  thick 
and  lusty  vegetation.  Back  from  the  valley,  ranges  of  broken  sand-hills 
mark  the  transition  to  the  high  arid  prairies  in  the  rear,  where  vegetation 
becomes  more  dwarfish  and  stinted  in  its  growth,  and  is  intermingled  with 
frequent  cacti. 

These  immense  plains  are  generally  clad  with  a  short,  curly  grass,  (the 
buffalo  grass,)  very  fine  and  nutrit:ous,  and  well  adapted  to  the  sustenance 
of  the  countless  herds  of  buffalo  and  other  wild  animals  that  feed  upon  it. 
Their  soil  is  generally  of  a  thin  vegetable  mould,  upon  a  substratum  of 
indurated  sand  and  gravel. 

In  many  places  it  is  quite  sterile,  producing  little  other  than  sand-burrs 
and  a  specimen  of  thin,  coarse  grass,  that  sadly  fail  to  conceal  its  forbidding 
surface  ;  in  others,  it  is  but  little  better  than  a  desert  waste  of  sand-hills, 
or  white  sun-baked  clay,  so  hard  and  impervious  that  neither  herb  nor  grass 
can  take  root  to  grow  upon  it ;  and  in  others,  it  presents  a  light  superfice, 
both  rich  and  productive,  beclad  with  all  that  can  beautify  and  adorn  a 
wilderness  of  verdure. 

The  springs  and  streams  of  water  are  "  few  and  far  between," — an  evil, 
however,  slightly  atoned  for  by  the  occasional  pools  formed  in  favoring  de- 
pressions during  the  rainy  season,  which  are  retained  in  their  places  by  the 
extreme  hardness  of  the  soil.  Were  it  not  for  these  it  would  be  almost 
impossible,  in  many  directions,  to  travel  the  vast  prairies  lying  between 
the  Arkansas  and  Missouri,  from  long.  22°  30'  west  from  Washington  to 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  That  this  section  of  country  should  ever  become 
inhabited  by  civilized  man,  to  any  extent,  except  in  the  vicinity  of  large 
water-courses,  is  an  idea  too  preposterous  to  be  entertained  for  a  single 
moment. 

As  the  reader  is  now  inducted  to  the  grand  prairie  as  it  is,  it  may  not  be 
amiss  to  say  something  relative  to  this  phenomenon,  before  dismissing  the 
subject  in  hand. 

The  steppes  of  Asia,  the  pampas  of  South  America,  and  the  prairies  of 
the  great  West,  so  far  as  my  information  extends,  are  possessed  of  one 
general  and  uniform  character.  There  is  something  deeply  mysterious 
associated  with  them,  that  puzzles  the  philosopher  and  cosmogonist  to  ex- 
plain. Why  is  it  neither  timber  nor  shrubs,  as  a  general  thing,  are  found 
within  their  confines  ?  Why  have  not  the  same  causes  operated  here 
which  produced  the  stately  forests  of  other  regions  ? 

The  above  questions  are  often  asked,  and  as  often  answered  ;  but  never 
satisfactorily. 

Some  respond  by  a  reference  to  their  frequent  burnings, — others  to 
some  chemical  delect  in  their  soil, — others,  to  the  disgeniality  of  their 
climate, — others,  to  their  infecund  aridity, — and  yet,  others,  to  the  sup- 
position that  some  operation  of  nature  or  art  has  effected  the  destruction 
of  quondam  forests,  and  reduced  them  to  their  present  condition. 

Each  of  these  answers,  though,  doubtless,  partially  true  in  many  re- 
spects, fails  to  solve  the  problem  before  us. 

Here  we  have,  in  many  places,  almost  measureless  extents  of  fertile 
soil,  moist  and  abundantly  watered,  by  rains,  springs,  and  ever-flowing 
streams,  with  all  the  desiderata  for  the    producing  of  trees, — and  what 


SOMETHING  TO  LAUGH  AT.  37 

withholds  them  ?  Other  sections  of  country,  under  less  favorable  circum- 
stances, are  not  wanting  in  this  respect. 

Why  is  it  ?  Timber  of  every  kind  adapted  to  the  zone  and  climate  will 
grow  as  thriftily  when  planted  here,  as  elsewhere.  The  frontier  forests  of 
our  Western  States  have  been  observed  for  years  past  to  make  slow  but 
constant  encroachment  upon  contiguous  prairies,  from  all  sides,  where,  as 
yet,  they  have  a  foothold ; — and  why  ?  Partly,  because  their  enlargement 
is  not  circumvented  by  those  annual  burnings  that  formerly  devoured  every 
tender  shoot  daring  to  raise  its  head  above  ground ;  and,  partly,  through 
the  operation  of  other  causes,  sure  and  gradual  in  their  effect,  which  have 
planted  the  groves  of  other  lands  and  taught  their  branches  to  wave  in  the 
breeze.  Doubtless  the  same  causes  would  produce  the  same  results,  all 
over  these  vast  regions,  as  elsewhere. 

But,  why  have  they  not  ? — why  are  the  prairies  timberless  ?  Simply, 
because  a  sufficiency  of  time  has  not  yet  elapsed  for  the  operation  of  these 
causes, — timber  has  hitherto  had  no  possible  chance  for  generation.  The 
phenomenon,  if  rightly  viewed,  \\  ill  thus  explain  itself.  Geology  points  to 
the  time  when  these  vast  solitudes  were  the  bed  of  old  Ocean  and  the  home 
of  waves, — but,  gradually  emerging  or  suddenly  elevated  from  the  watery 
abyss,  they  now  present  some  of  the  more  recent  formations  of  dry  land. 

Herbage  and  grass,  being  more  easily  propagated  than  trees, — sown  as 
are  their  seeds  by  the  birds  and  scattered  by  the  winds  of  heaven, — in  a 
brief  interval,  beswathed  the  new-born  earth  with  smiling  green.  Thus 
clothed  with  verdancy,  they  soon  became  the  favorite  pastures  of  the 
countless  herds  that  thronged  them.  With  game,  appeared  the  red  man 
to  hunt  it,  and  with  him  the  yearly  conflagrations  that  now  repel  the  in- 
truding woodlands  and.  confirm  the  unbroken  sway  of  solitude  amid  her 
far  extending  domains. 

Here,  then,  we  have  spread  before  us  the  prairies  as  we  find  them, — the 
problem  of  their  existence  needs  no  further  solution. 

Oct.  12ih.  Still  continuing  up  the  Platte  by  its  south  bank,  we  made 
camp  at  night  near  the  head  of  Grand  Island.  During  our  progress  we 
saw  large  quantities  of  wild  geese  and  cranes  in  the  river  bottoms,  that 
presented  tempting  marks  for  our  voyigeurs.  One  of  the  latter, — a  tall, 
raw-boned,  half-crazed,  and  self-confident  Missouri  "  Ned," — good  natured 
and  inane, — sporting  the  familiar  soubriquet  of  "  Big  Jim," — wishing  to 
prove  the  truth  of  the  Dogberry  axiom,  that  "  some  things  mav  be  done  as 
well  others,"  started  to  approach  a  large  flock  of  sand-hill  cranes,  parading 
half  obscured  in  a  plat  of  grass  near  the  road  side. 

The  wary  birds,  however,  caught  glimpse  of  the  approaching  Nimrod 
and  flew.  Still  our  hero  advanced,  crawling  upon  all-fours,  to  within  sixty 
or  seventy  yards  of  their  recent  position,  when,  raising  up,  he  espyed  an 
object  which  his  excited  imagination  portrayed  a  crane,  and  promptly  yielded 
to  it  the  contents  of  his  rifle. 

Of  course  the  obstinate  creature  remained  in  statu  quo. 

Re-loading  with  all  possible  speed,  he  again  fired !  But  the  second  shot 
proved  futile  as  the  first. 

Determined  the  next  should  count  whether  or  no,  he  advanced  still 
nearer,  and  had  raised  for  his  third  discharge,  before  the  naked  truth  burst 


38  BIG  JIM  AND  THE  ANTELOPE. 


upon  his  astonished  vision, — he  had  been  shooting  at  a  bunch  of  dead  grass  ! 
Shouldering  his  rifle  he  now  rejoined  the  caravan,  and  was  received  by  the 
wags  who  had  witnessed  his  exploit,  as  follows : 

"  Ho,  Jim  !  I  say,  Jim  !  Did  you  kill  it  ?" 

"  Hang  me,  but  it  stood  fire  well,— didn't  it  ?" 

"  Reckon  you  wanted  a  bigger  charge." 

"  Strange  you  couldn't  knock  it  cold  at  that  distance  !" 

"  May  be  your  gun's  out  of  order  ?" 

"  Yes.  I'll  bet  a  stewed  crane  of  it.  Have  yousnoticed  the  "sights" 
lately  ?" 

"  Why,  Jim.  Really  you've  had  bad  luck  !  What,  within  sixty  yards 
and  not  kill  ?     I  can  beat  that,  all  day  !" 

"  Ha,  ha,  Jim  !     Shoot  him  grass  !" 

This  rally  was  received,  by  our  hero,  in  good  part,  who  joined  in  the 
sport  with  as  much  gusto  as  though  some  one  else  were  the  victim. 

The  day,  however,  was  not  permitted  to  pass  without  another  display  of 
the  prowess  of  "  Big  Jim." 

A  doe  antelope,  attracted  by  the  strange  appearance  of  the  moving  cara- 
van, and  impelled  by  its  innate  curiosity,  had  ventured  to  a  tempting  prox- 
imity. Mounted  upon  a  fleet  horse  and  supposing  he  could  easily  ride 
down  the  antelope,  our  hero  started  in  pursuit. 

Intently  surveying  the  passing  scene,  the  agile  animal  permitted  him  to 
advance  within  a  few  yards  of  her  before  she  took  the  alarm.  Now  was 
a  novel  race.  Away  went  antelope  and  away  went  Jim,  in  full  chase. 
The  former  was  soon  far  ahead,  and  stopped  to  gaze  upon  her  pursuer. 

Supposing  she  had  become  tired  and  was  about  to  yield,  our  hero  came 
dashing  on,  impetuously,  under  whip  and  spur,  fully  intent  upon  her  cap- 
ture. But,  again,  away  went  antelope,  and  away  went  Jim,  whose  steed, 
ambitious  as  its  rider,  and  proud  in  its  own  fleetness,  strained  every  nerve 
for  the  crisis.  Even  the  antelope  seemed  to  have  found  a  champion  to 
contest  her  unrivalled  and  universally  acknowledged  superiority.  With 
distended  mouth  and  protruding  tongue,  panting  in  the  excitement  of  fear, 
and  foaming  in  the  veherhency  of  eflbrt,  she  gained  but  slowly  upon  the 
bounding  charger,  as  both  swept  over  the  prairie  almost  with  speed  of  the 
storm-wind ! 

Now,  again,  she  stops  to  gaze  upon  her  pursuer.  By  this  time  all  be- 
gan to  feel  an  interest  in  the  result  of  the  strange  race.  The  word  re- 
sounded : 

"  Go  it,  Jim  !  you'll  beat  the  beater,  yet !" 

Once  more,  the  antelope  shoots  from  before  both  horse  and  rider,  like 
the  swift-winged  arrow  twanged  from  a  giant's  bow ! 

A  broad  ravine  intercepting  her  course  was  cleared  at  a  bound,  and  left 
the  flying  animal  far  upon  the  other  side.  At  a  bound  the  steed  also 
cleared  the  barrier,  but,  in  striking  upon  the  opposite  bank,  it  plunged 
headlong  upon  the  yielding  ground,  tossing  its  rider  far  away  in  advance, 
all  safely  sprawling  in  a  sand  heap. 

The  luckless  wight,  on  recovering,  found  his  noble  beast  so  sprained  by 
the  fall  it  could  scarcely  stand,  and  its  every  nerve  vibrating  with  frightful 
tremors.  Of  course  here  was  the  finale  of  the  race,  as  both  now  re- 
turned to  the  caravan, — the  recent  rider,  on  foot,  leading  his  jaded  steed,-- 


BIG  JIMS  THIRD  ATTEMPT  AS  HUNTER.  39 

the  ridden  slowly  limping  behind, — presenting  a  marked  contrast  between 
the  opening  and  closing  scene. 

The  ill-fated  horse  was  too  much  disabled  for  further  service  during  the 
journey. 

As  our  hero  joined  the  company,  the  joke-loving  wags  again  broke 
loose : 

"  Well,  Jim.     I  say, — ahem  !  did  you  catch  the  tarnal  critter  ?" 

"  Pooh !  Why  didn't  you  hold  on,  and  not  let  her  slide  through  your 
fingers  in  that  way  !" 

"  Why,  man  !  You  wasn't  spry  enough,  when  you  jumped  off  your  horse, 
or  you  might  have  caught  her — just  as  easy  !" 

"  I'd  like  to  know  what  you  was  diving  arter  in  that  sand-bank ! — the 
antelope  wasn't  there !" 

"  Oh,  Jim !  Shoot  him  grass,  kill  horse.  Me  look  next  time  he  run 
antelope." 

The  passive  recipient  of  these  sallies  had  little  peace  from  hence- 
forth, and  soon  began  to  wish  he  had  never  seen  an  antelope  or  heard  of  a 
crane. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Deserted  camp. — Big  Jim's  third  attempt  as  a  hunter. — Buffalo  and  other  particu- 
lars.— Big  Jim  lying  guard. — Butchering. — Strange  selections. — Extraordinary 
eating,  and  excellence  of  buffalo  meat..— Brady's  Island. — The  murderer's  fate. — 
Substitute  for  wood. — A  storm. ---Game  in  camp.— Strange  infatuation.™ Tenacity 
of  buffalo  to  life,  and  how  to  hunt  them. — Cross  S.  Fork  of  Platte.— Big  Jim's 
fourth  adventure. 

Near  camp  was  the  site  recently  occupied  by  the  Pawnee  village, 
whose  occupants  had  evidently  deserted  it  with  the  utmost  precipitancy, 
leaving  lodge-skins,  mortars,  bowls,  pans,  and  a  variety  of  other  articles 
strown  confusedly  upon  all  sides.  They  had  doubtless  become  alarmed  at 
the  approach  of  some  real  or  supposed  enemy,  and  consulted  their  own 
safety  in  flight. 

Having  started  early  the  next  day,  our  hunter  soon  brought  in  twt  fine 
antelope,  the  sight  of  which  again  raised  the  ambition  of  Big  Jim,  who  would 
fain  do  deeds  of  equal  wonder ;  and  he  accordingly  strolled  off  into  the 
hills  with  that  intent.  After  shooting  at  several  of  the  wary  animals 
without  success,  he  began  to  get  tired  of  the  sport,  and  concluding  the 
"  poverty-stricken  "  creatures  not  worth  the  powder  and  lead,  set  his  face 
for  the  caravan. 

Pioddmg  leisurely  along,  he  espied  a  prairie  snake,  and,  o'erjoyed  at 
the  thought  of  counting  a  "  coup,  gathered  his  rifle  by  the  small,  and 
brought  it  down  with  such  force,  he  not  only  killed  the  snake,  but  broke 
his  gun-stock  short  off  at  the  breech.  With  the  pieces,  one  in  each  hand, 
he  made  his  appearance  before  his  comrades,  who  hailed  him : 

4* 


40  LYING   GUARD. 


'•  Hallo,  Jim.     What's  that  you've  killed  ?" 

"  Gun  broke.     Why,  you  must  have  overloaded  it !" 

"  When'll  you  go  hunting  again  ? — 'case  I  want  to  go  too !" 

"  Poor  Jim !  Shoot  grass,  kill  horse,  break  gun !  Wat  in  de  wor. 
does  him  mean !" 

"  Never  mind,  Jim.  Don't  be  skeered  at  these  fellows.  It  takes  you 
to  play  the  devil  and  break  things  !" 

Towards  night,  several  buffalo  bulls  having  made  their  appearance,  our 
hunter,  mounting  a  horse,  started  for  the  chase,  and  in  a  brief  interval,  re- 
turned laden  with  a  supply  of  meat.  Camp  had  already  been  struck,  and 
preparations  for  the  new  item  of  fare  were  under  speedy  headway. 

The  beef  proved  miserably  poor ;  but  when  cooked,  indifferent  as  it  was, 
I  imagined  it  the  best  I  had  ever  tasted.  So  keen  was  my  relish,  it 
seemed  impossible  to  get  enough.  Each  of  us  devoured  an  enormous 
quantity  for  supper, — and  not  content  with  that,  several  forsook  their  beds 
during  the  night  to  renew  the  feast, — as  though  they  had  been  actually 
starving  for  a  month. 

The  greediness  of  the  <c  greenhorns,"  was  the  prolific  source  of  amuse- 
ment to  our  voyageurs,  who  made  the  night-air  resound  with  laughter  at 
the  avidity  with  which  the  unsophisticated  ones  "  walked  into  the  affections 
of  the  old  bull,"  as  they  expressed  it.  "  Keep  on  your  belts  till  we  get 
among  cows,"  said  they,  "then  let  out  a  notch  or  two,  and  take  a  full 
meal." 

It  was  equally  amusing  to  me,  and  rather  disgusting  withal,  to  see  the 
"  old  birds,"  as  they  called  themselves,  dispose  of  the  only  liver  brought  in 
camp.  Instead  of  boiling,  frying,  or  roasting  it,  they  laid  hold  of  it  raw, 
and,  sopping  it  mouthful  by  mouthful  in  gall,  swallowed  it  with  surprising 
gusto. 

This  strange  proceeding  was  at  first  altogether  incomprehensible,  but, 
ere  the  reader  shall  have  followed  me  through  all  my  adventures  in  the 
wilds  of  the  great  West,  he  will  find  me  to  have  obtained  a  full  knowledge 
of  its  several  merits. 

The  beef  of  the  male  buffalo  at  this  season  of  the  year,  is  poorer  than 
at  any  other.  From  April  till  the  first  of  June,  it  attains  its  prime,  in 
point  of  excellence.  In  July  and  August,  these  animals  prosecute  their 
knight-errantic  campaign,  and,  between  running,  fighting  and  gallantry, 
find  little  time  to  graze,  finally  emerging  from  the  contested  field,  with 
hides  well  gored,  and  scarcely  fiesh  enough  upon  their  bones  to  make  a 
decent  shadow. 

It  is  nowise  marvellous,  then,  that  our  lavish  appropriation  of  bull- 
meat  at  this  time,  when  it  is  unprecedentedly  tough,  strong-tasted,  and 
poor,  should  excite  the  mirth  of  our  better-informed  beholders. 

The  night  was  a  cold  one,  and  claimed  for  it  Big  Jim  as  second  guard. 
When  called  for  "  relieve,"  with  a  borrowed  gun,  he  commenced  his 
rounds, — but  the  cold  soon  drove  him  to  the  camp-fire. 

Here,  weariness  and  the  somnific  effects  of  a  generous  heat,  speedily 
found  him  stretched  at  full  length  towards  the  fire,  snoring  away  at  a  sound 
rate,  the  subject  of  their  combined  influence 


SLAUGHTER  OF  BUFFALO.  41 

The  guard  time  had  already  expired,  and  his  partner  on  duty,  perceiving 
the  pleasant  situation  of  the  indomitable  Jim,  called  the  next "  relieve," 
and  retired. 

These  paced  their  rounds,  and  the  fourth  guard  succeeded,  but  still  our 
hero  occupied  the  same  place  in  which  he  had  lain  his  "  tour."  The 
sentinels  were  about  to  take  their  posts,  as  a  loud  sharp  voice  resounded 
through  camp. 

"  Quit,  there !     What  d'ye  mean  ?" 

Hastening  to  the  spot  from  which  the  cry  proceeded,  who  should  be 
seen  but  Big  Jim,  in  great  agony,  rubbing  his  foot  with  most  pitiable 
grimace : 

His  slumbers  had  been  disturbed  by  a  falling  log,  of  the  camp-fire,  which 
had  planted  its  glowing  weight  full  against  one  of  his  feet, — becrisping 
the  sole  of  his  shoe  and  severely  scorching  its  tenant,  before  awakening 
him.  Dreaming  some  one  had  hold  of  his  foot,  and  started  by  a  sudden 
acuteness  of  pain,  he  exclaimed  as  above  quoted. 

The  sentinels  laughed  at  his  mishap,  and  turning  to  pace  their  rounds, 
drawled  out : 

"  What  d'ye  mean  ?  Sure  enough,  what  d'ye  mean !  Shoot  grass, 
kill  horse,  break  gun,  lay  guard,  burn  shoe,  and  scorch  foot ; — all  in  two 
days  and  two  nights  !     Poor  devil, — why  ye  no  born  wid  better  luck !" 

With  the  morning,  the  subject  of  his  recent  adventures  called  forth  fresh 
scintillations  of  waggish  wit, — while  the  unrivalled  capacity  of  our  hero, 
as  a  gormandizer,  gave  cue  to  the  cuts  that  followed : 

"  Well,  my  head  for  a  foot-ball,  if  that  aint  the  greatest  idea  yet. 
What ! — roast  foot,  basted  with  leather, — and  his  own  at  that !  Such  a 
meal  none  but  Jim  would  ever  have  thought  of  !" 

"  Why,  man  !    What  put  you  in  the  notion  of  that  dish  ?" 

"  Strange,  indeed,  if  you  can't  find  the  wherewith  to  stuff  your  devil, 
without  cooking  your  feet !  Souse,  to  be  sure  !  Here,  you  can  take  my 
hat !" 

The  luckless  wight  had  now  enough  to  engage  his  attention  during  the 
remainder  of  the  journey,  and  began  to  wish  he  had  never  seen  a  moun- 
tain company,  or  left  his  sweet  home  in  Missouri  to  cross  the  great  prairies 
with  such  a  crowd, — but  all  to  no  purpose  ;  he  was  too  late  to  retrace  his 
steps  alone. 

Oct.  1 3ih.  Starting  at  early  day,  we  travelled  till  about  1 1  o'clock, 
A.  M.,  and  halted  for  breakfast.  The  teams  were  scarcely  turned  to  graze, 
when  a  dense  band  of  buffalo  cows  made  their  appearance,  from  the  back 
prairie,  wending  their  way  towards  the  river. 

Expectation  was  on  tip-toe,  and  all  appetites  doubly  sharpened  for  an 
anticipated  feast,  as  our  hunter  and  his  assistant  started  to  intercept  the 
witless  animals  at  the  river  bank. 

The  two  placed  themselves  in  a  chosen  position  and  awaited  the  heavily 
moving  throng,  which  soon  advanced  to  within  shooting  distance.  The 
sharp  crack  of  a  rifle  now  stopped  their  headway,  and  caused  them  to  re- 
coil a  few  paces,  leaving  one  of  their  number  struggling  in  death.  An 
other  discharge  followed,  and  the  affrighted  herd  were  seen  flying  from 
their  concealed  enemy,  with  all  the  energy  that  innate  dread  of  danger  and 


42  EXTRAORDINARY  EATING. 

death  lent  to  their  ready  feet, — but  not  until  another  victim  had  dank  the 
sod  with  the  unsought  libation  of  its  heart's  blood. 

It  pained  me,  as  I  came  up,  to  witness  the  noble  beasts  as  they  lay  ex- 
tended upon  the  gore-dyed  ground.  But  the  present  was  no  time  for 
regret ;  we  were  to  feed  upon  their  carcases. 

The  process  of  butchering  was  a  new  developement  of  that  most  use- 
ful science.  The  carcase  was  first  turned  upon  the  belly,  and  braced  to  a 
position  by  its  distended  legs.  The  operator  then  commenced  his  labors  by 
gathering  the  long  hair  of  the  " boss"  and  severing  a  piece  obliquely  at 
the  junction  of  the  neck  and  shoulders, — then  parting  the  hide  from  neck 
to  rump,  a  few  passes  of  his  ready  knife  laid  bare  the  sides, — next  paring 
away  the  loose  skin  and  preparing  a  hold,  with  one  hand  he  pulled  the 
shoulder  towards  him  and  with  the  other  severed  it  from  the  body  ; — cut- 
ting aslant  the  uprights  of  the  spina  dorsi  and  "hump  ribs,"  along  the  late- 
ral to  the  curve,  and  parting  the  "  fleece  "  from  the  tough  flesh  at  that  point 
he  deposited  it  upon  a  clean  grass-spot. 

The  same  process  being  described  upon  the  opposite  side,  the  carcase 
wras  then  slightly  inclined,  and,  by  aid  of  the  leg-bone  bisected  at  the  knee- 
joint,  the  "  hump-ribs  "  were  parted  from  the  vertebrae ;  after  which,  pass- 
ing his  knife  aside  the  ninth  rib  and  around  the  ends  at  the  midriff,  he  laid 
hold  of  the  dissevered  side,  and,  with  two  or  three  well  directed  jerks,  re- 
moved it  to  be  laid  upon  his  choicely  assorted  pile ;  a  few  other  brief  minu- 
tiae then  completed  the  task. 

Meanwhile,  divers  of  the  company  had  joined  the  butcher,  and,  while 
some  were  greedily  feeding  upon  liver  and  gall,  others  helped  themselves 
to  marrow-bones,  "boudins"  and  intestinum  medulce,  (choice  selections 
with  mountaineers,)  and  others,  laden  wTith  rich  spoils,  hastened  their  re- 
turn to  commence  the  more  agreeable  task  of  cooking  and  eating. 

The  remaining  animal  was  butchered  in  a  trice,  and  select  portions  of 
each  were  then  placed  upon  a  pack-horse  and  conveyed  to  the  waggons. 

The  assortment  was,  indeed,  a  splendid  one.  The  "  depouille  "  (fleece- 
fat)  was  full  two  inches  thick  upon  the  animal's  back,  and  the  other  dainties 
were  enough  to  charm  the  eyes  and  excite  the  voracity  of  an  epicure. 

The  camp-fires  soon  presented  a  busy  and  amusing  spectacle.  Each 
one  was  ornamented  with  delicious  roasts,  en  appolas,  on  sticks  planted 
aslope  around  it,  attentively  watched  by  the  longing  voyagenrs,  who  await- 
ed the  slow  process  of  cooking.  Some  were  seen  with  thin  slices  from  the 
larder,  barely  heated  through  by  the  agency  of  a  few  coals,  retreating  from 
the  admiring  throng  to  enjoy  solo  their  half-cooked  morsels, — others,  paring 
ofT  bit  by  bit  from  the  fresh-turned  hissing  roasts,  while  their  opposite  re- 
ceived the  finishing  operation  of  the  fire, — and  others,  tossing  their  everted 
boudins  into  the  flames,  and  in  a  few  seconds  withdrawing  for  the  repast, 
each  seizing  his  ample  share,  bemouthed  the  end  in  quick  succession  to 
sever  the  chosen  esculent,  which,  while  yielding  to  the  eager  teeth,  coursed 
miniature  rivulets  of  oily  exuberance  from  the  extremities  of  the  active 
orifice,  bedaubing  both  face  and  chin,  and  leaving  its  delighted  eater  in  all 
the  glories  of  grease ! 

Every  man  had  now  become  his  own  cook,  and,  not  to  be  backward,  I 
closed  in  with  the  overture. 

Seizing  a  frying-pan  replete  with  tempting  levies  from  the  "  fleece,"  I 


BRADY'S  ISLAND.  43' 

twice  subjected  it  to  its  duty,  and  as  often  its  delicious  contents  found  am- 
ple store-house ;  and  even  yet  my  longing  appetite  seemed  loth  to  cry 
"hold,  enough!" 

The  agreeable  odor  exhaled  from  the  drippings  of  the  frying  flesh,  con- 
tained in  the  pan,  invited  the  taste, — a  temptation  claiming  me  for  its  sub- 
ject. Catching  up  the  vessel,  a  testing  sip  made  way  for  the  whole  of  its 
contents,  at  a  single  draught, — full  six  gills  !  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  I 
did  not  experience  the  least  unpleasant  feeling  as  the  result  of  my  extraor- 
dinary potation. 

The  stomach  never  rebels  against  buflalo-fat.  Persons,  subsisting  en- 
tirely upon  the  flesh  of  these  animals,  prefer  an  assortment  of  at  least  one 
third  solid  depouille. 

The  voyageur  is  never  more  satisfied  than  when  he  has  a  good  supply 
of  buffalo-beef  at  his  command.  It  is  then  his  greasy  visage  bespeaks 
content,  and  his  jocund  voice  and  merry  laugh  evince  the  deep-felt  pleasure 
and  gratification  that  reign  within. 

Talk  not  to  him  of  the  delicacies  of  civilized  life, — of  pies,  puddings, 
soups,  fricasees,  roast-beef,  pound-cake,  and  desert, — he  cares  for  none  of 
these  things,  and  will  laugh  at  your  verdancy  I 

He  knows  his  own  preference,  and  will  tell  you  your  boasted  excellencies 
are  not  to  be  compared  with  it.  If  you  object  to  the  sameness  of  his  sim- 
ple fare,  he  will  recount  the  several  varieties  of  its  parts,  and  descant 
upon  each  of  their  peculiar  merits.  He  will  illustrate  the  numerous  and 
dissimilar  modes  of  so  preparing  them,  that  they  cannot  fail  to  excite  by 
their  presence  and  appease  by  their  taste  the  appetite  of  the  most  fasti- 
dious. And  then,  in  point  of  health,  there  is  nothing  equal  to  buffalo-meat. 
It,  alone,  will  cure  dyspepsy,  prevent  consumption,  amend  a  broken  consti- 
tution, put  flesh  upon  the  bones  of  a  skeleton,  and  restore  a  dead  man  again 
to  life ! — if  you  will  give  credence  to  one  half  of  the  manifold  virtues  he 
carefully  names  in  your  hearing. 

Oct.  14th.  We  were  early  en  route,  and  made  some  twenty  miles. 
Our  hunter,  during  the  day,  rejoined  the  caravan,  laden  with  the  best  por- 
tions of  three  other  fat  cows,  to  add  to  the  fund  of  life  and  good  humor  en- 
joyed by  each. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  we  made  camp  opposite  a  heavily  wooded  island, 
called  Brady's  Island,  in  memory  of  a  man,  so  named,  who  was  murdered 
upon  it  by  his  companion  some  eight  years  ago. 

The  two  were  connected  with  a  boat,  laden  with  furs,  on  its  passage  to 
the  States.  They  had  frequently  quarrelled,  and  were  generally  upon 
otherwise  bad  terms.  On  the  day  of  the  fatal  occurrence,  they  were  left 
alone  in  camp  by  the  rest  of  the  boat's  crew,  who  went  in  quest  of 
buffalo.  At  their  return,  Brady  was  found  lying  in  his  blood, — kill- 
ed, as  his  companion  affirmed,  by  the  accidental  discharge  of  his  own 
rifle. 

The  tale  was  received  quite  doubtingly,  and  its  listeners  were  only  de- 
terred from  the  execution  of  summary  vengeance  upon  the  murderer  by 
thought  of  the  bare  possibility  of  its  truth. 

The  body  of  the  unfortunate  man  was  buried  near  the  spot, — but  being 
subsequently  disinterred  by  the  wolves,  his  bones  were  left  to  bleach  and 


44  THE  MURDERER'S  FATE. 

moulder  in  the  sun  and  rains  of  heaven.  Some  of  them  were  lying  scat- 
tered near  by,  upon  our  arrival,  which  were  collected  by  the  sympathizing" 
xoyageurs,  who  bestowed  upon  them  those  rites  of  sepulture  they  had 
been  so  long  and  cruelly  denied. 

The  reader  will  naturally  enquire,  what  became  of  the  supposed  mur- 
derer ?  His  was  a  fearful  retribution, — a  mournful  tale  of  suffering,  worse 
than  death,  till  death  itself  in  pity  came  to  his  relief. 

Soon  after  the  melancholy  incident  previously  related,  the  shallowness 
of  the  Platte  river  compelled  the  company  to  abandon  their  boat,  and  make 
the  best  of  their  way  to  the  States  on  foot, — a  distance  of  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  to  the  nearest  inhabitants,  either  Indian  or  white. 

Their  provisions  running  short,  and  no  game  at  hand,  a  separation  was 
had  about  midway  of  their  journey,  and  each  one  hurried  to  its  termination 
as  rapidly  as  possible.  The  murderer,  being  but  an  indifferent  walker,  was 
soon  left  far  in  the  rear. 

His  comrades,  on  their  arrival  at  the  Pawnee  village,  sent  two  Indians 
to  bring  him  in,  and  continued  their  course  to  Council  Bluffs. 

Nothing  further  was  known  of  the  subject  of  our  sketch,  till  some  eight 
or  nine  days  subsequent,  when  a  small  party  of  engages  in  the  employ  of 
the  American  Fur  Company,  on  passing  the  Pawnee  village,  were  met  by 
the  head-chief,  who  requested  them  to  visit  a  white  man  lying  sick  at  his 
lodge. 

They  went.  He  was  the  murderer,  at  the  point  of  death.  His  story 
was  briefly  told. 

The  night  succeeding  the  departure  of  his  companions,  in  an  attempt  to 
light  a  fire  with  his  pistol,  to  disperse  by  its  smoke  the  myriads  of  mus- 
quetoes  that  swarmed  around  and  nearly  devoured  him,  an  unknown  charge 
it  contained  was  lodged  in  his  thigh-bone — severing  it  to  a  thousand  pieces. 
In  this  condition  he  lay  helpless.  To  walk  was  impossible ; — he  could 
scarcely  move,  far  less  dress  his  wounds  in  a  proper  manner.  He  man- 
aged, however,  to  affix  a  piece  of  red  flannel  to  an  upright  stick,  to  tell  the 
transient  traveller  the  site  of  his  supposed  last  resting  place,  then,  crawl- 
ing with  difficulty  to  the  river-side,  he  remained  six  days  and  nights — tor- 
mented by  musquitoes,  reduced  by  pain,  and  wasted  by  continued  hunger, 
till  scarcely  the  wreck  of  manhood  was  left  him. 

It  was  then  he  longed  for  death  to  terminate  his  agony.  Still  he  could 
not  endure  the  thoughts  of  dying. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  seventh  day,  his  ear  caught  the  indistinct 
murmur  of  sounds.  Were  they'  human  voices  ? — No,  he  must  be  dream- 
ing.    He  hears  them  again.     It  is  no  dream ; — they  are  human  voices ! 

They  approach.     Is  it  to  his  assistance  ? 

O'erjoyed  he  beholds  two  Pawnees  bending  over  him,  with  compassion 
pictured  expressively  upon  their  countenances.  They  gave  him  meat, — 
they  dressed  his  wounds,  and  did  everything  in  their  power  to  alleviate  his 
misery. 

Oh,  say  not  there  is  no  pity  in  the  bosom  of  the'  red  man ! 

Having  constructed  a  rude  litter  of  poles,  and  using  their  own  robes  for 
his  bed,  they  carefully  conveyed  him  upon  their  shoulders  to  the  place  he 
yet  occupied. 

But  the  care  of  sympathizing  attendants  failed  to  atone  for  previous  neg 


GAME  IN  CAMP.  45 

lect.  Mortification  had  already  taken  place,  and  death  claimed  him  for  a 
victim.  He  expired  in  the  presence  of  those  whom  the  good  chief  had 
called  to  his  bed-side ; — but,  before  his  tongue  refused  to  speak,  he  con- 
fessed the  murder  of  Brady,  and  owned  the  justice  of  his  punishment  in 
all  the  untold  miseries  he  had  been  compelled  to  endure. 
"  Vengeance  is  mine,  and  I  will  repay  it,  saith  the  Lord!" 

On  resuming  our  journey  the  road  gradually  bore  towards  the  hills  upon 
the  left,  (which  presented  an  outline  of  conical  eminences,  rising,  as  the 
traveller  advances,  to  an  elevation  of  four  or  five  hundred  feet,)  and  finally 
crossed  them  at  the  point  of  an  angle  formed  near  the  confluence  of  the 
two  great  forks  of  the  Platte,  upon  the  east  side  ;  from  thence,  descending 
to  the  opposite  bottom,  we  reached  a  timberless  spring  and  made  camp 
soon  after  nightfall. 

The  lack  of  wood  at  this  place  wras  readily  met  by  the  great  abun- 
dance of  bois  de  vache,  (bufialo-chips,)  the  common  substitute  of  the 
prairies ;  and,  in  a  brief  interval,  the  camp-fires  were  merrily  blazing,  with 
all  the  appliances  of  cookery  about  them. 

Early  the  next  morning,  our  hunter  rejoined  the  caravan,  bringing  with 
him  the  spoils  of  two  more  cows:  He  had  passed  the  night  upon  the 
prairie  alone,  without  coat  or  blanket,  or  anything  to  screen  him  from  the 
bleak  autumn  winds,  that  swept  over  the  naked  plains,  dancing  their  dirges 
to  the  dying  year. 

The  sky  gave  evidence  of  an  approaching  storm,  and  we  hastily  started 
in  quest  of  some  more  sheltered  spot  in  which  to  weather  it.  A  few  miles 
brought  us  to  the  river,  and,  availing  ourselves  of  a  small  supply  of  drift 
wood,  we  made  halt. 

The  combustibles  the  vicinity  afforded  were  soon  collected,  and  the  camp- 
fires  imparted  their  generous  warmth  despite  the  falling  rain.  Nor  were 
they  permitted  to  remain  long  unembellished  by  the  numerous  kettles, 
frying-pans,  and  roasting-s ticks  at  command. 

I  here  enjoyed  full  test  of  some  of  the  many  varieties  of  mountain  fare 
hitherto  so  freely  enlarged  upon  by  our  voyageurs, — which,  as  they  now 
asserted,  would  make  a  man  "  shed  rain  like  an  otter,  and  stand  cold  like  a 
polar  bear  !" — quaintly  adding,  "  if  he  could  always  live  upon  such  •  didins,' 
he  need  never  die!" 

I  must  in  justice  confess  that  the  real  merits  of  our  present  "  bill  of 
fare,"  by  far  exceeded  my  previous  expectations. 

The  rain  continued  till  near  night ;  but  little  did  we  care.  The  choicest 
the  prairie  afforded,  was  now  before  us,  and,  rain  or  shine,  we  were  con- 
tented. Sound  in  health  and  buoyant  in  spirits,  we  fully  enjoyed  ourselves, 
despite  the  Irowning  elements. 

A  little  before  sundown,  the  rain  subsided  into  a  thick  fog,  and  an  old 
bull,  in  the  consequent  obscurity,  straggled  close  upon  camp. 

The  abrupt  passage  of  a  rifle-ball  through  his  lights,  was  his  first  feeling 
sense  of  the  presence  of  danger.  The  affrighted  customer  then  retreated 
a  few  steps,  and,  falling,  surrendered  himself  to  the  resistless  power  of 
cold  lead. 

A  large  band  of  cows  also  made  their  appearance,  in  the  same  manner, 
and  our  hunter  struck  out  to  waylay  them. 


46  STRANGE  INFATUATION. 


Permitting  the  unwitting  animals  to  advance  within  good  shooting  dis- 
tance, a  discharge  from  his  rifle  brought  down  one  of  their  number.  The 
band  then  recoiled  slightly ;  but,  snuffing  the  odor  of  blood,  they  returned 
immediately  to  their  prostrate  companion. 

This  was  enough, — a  charm  now  riveted  them  to  the  spot, — a  strange 
infatuation  had  seized  upon  them.  They  began  by  spurning  the  ground 
with  their  feet, — then,  bellowing,  gored  the  fallen  beast,  as  if  forcing  her  to 
rise, — then,  rolling  upon  the  grass,  in  demonstrative  sympathy, — and,  now 
that  she  had  ceased  to  struggle  and  lay  yet  quivering  in  death,  they  licke 
her  bleeding  wounds  and  seemed  to  exercise  a  kind  of  mournful  rivalr) 
in  the  bestowment  of  their  testimonials  of  affection. 

She  is  encircled  by  her  companions.  An  effort  to  approach  from  without 
is  resisted  by  those  within.  A  fight  ensues,  and  all  becomes  confusion. 
Each  turns  against  her  neighbor,  and  continues  the  strife  till  the  space 
around  the  carcase  is  again  vacated  ;  whereupon  a  general  rush  once  more 
centers  to  the  spot,  and  all  unite  to  react  the  former  scene. 

In  this  manner  they  persisted  in  their  frenzied  devotion  to  the  fallen  one, 
as  if  determined  to  restore  her  to  life  and  action,  or  perish  by  her  side. 

Meanwhile  the  hunter's  rifle  had  been  busily  employ ed.-  But  they  heeded 
it  not.  Four  more  of  their  number  lay  gasping  in  death  upon  the  en- 
sanguined ground ;  and  still  they  seemed  no  more  disposed  to  leave 
the  scene  of  slaughter  than  at  first.  Sixteen  successive  shots  were  fired, 
each  bearing  blood,  wounds  and  death,  and  yet  the  spell  was  no  nearer 
broken. 

It  was  a  spectacle  vested  with  melancholy  animation.  The  pawing, 
goring,  bellowing,  licking  of  wounds,  and  struggles  of  rival  affection,  re- 
mained the  same,  with  no  visible  abatement  of  their  vehemency. 

The  sun  had  set,  and  the  sable  hue  of  twilight  empalled  the  blood-dank 
slaughter-ground.  The  death-dealing  rifle  had  ceased  its  sharp  crack,  and 
the  gore-scenting  wolves,  half  starved  and  eager  for  their  supposed  prey, 
came  flocking  upon  every  side,  mingling  their  wobegone  howlings  with 
the  piteous  moans  of  the  spell-bound  herd,  and  the  loud  whistlings  of  the 
prairie  winds, — and  yet,  they  lingered. 

At  last  the  impatient  hunter  advanced.  More  affrighted  at  the  presence 
of  man  than  the  companionship  of  death,  they  now  gave  way,  and  reluc- 
tantly left  the  field  to  him,  who  had  so  unfeelingly  occasioned  their  burthen 
of  mourning  and  woe  ; — still,  ever  and  anon  stopping  to  gaze,  as  if  longing 
to  return  and  die  with  those  they  loved  ! 

All  hands  were  now  summoned  to  aid  at  the  work  of  butchery ;  but  the 
fast-enshrouding  darkness  soon  drove  us  back  to  camp,  leaving  the  task 
not  half  completed. 

Our  withdrawal  from  the  premises  was  the  signal  for  possession  by  the 
eager  wolves,  whose  ceaseless  yelpings  the  livelong  night,  made  the  gloomy 
interval  doubly  dismal.  By  morning,  nothing  but  bones  and  thick  pieces 
of  skin  marked  the  scene  of  their  recent  re  veilings ! 

Thus  early,  I  had  learned,  that  to  approach  buffalo  with  success,  the  hunter 
should  carefully  maintain  the  leeward,  such  being  their  remarkable  sensi- 
tiveness, they  will  sooner  flee  from  the  smell  than  the  sight  of  a  man. 
"Vheir  sense  of  smell,  with  the  wind,  in  fact,  far  exceeds  their  scope  of 


BIG  JIM'S  FOURTH  ADVENTURE. 

vision.  It  is  so  extremely  acute,  that  even  the  fresh  footsteps  of  a  man. 
crossing  their  path,  are  to  them  a  sure  cause  of  alarm  and  flight 

Of  all  the  diversities  of  game  indigenous  to  the  mountains  and  prairies 
of  the  great  West,  with  the  exception,  perhaps,  of  the  grizzly  bear,  no 
animal  is  more  tenacious  of  life  than  the  buffalo.  To  shoot  it  in  the  head, 
is  an  inane  effort.  No  rifle  can  project  a  ball  with  sufficient  force  to  per- 
forate the  thick  hair  and  hide  to  its  brain,  through  the  double  scull-bone 
that  protects  it.  A  paunch  shot  is  equally  vain.  The  only  sure  points  for 
the  marksman  are,  the  heart,  lights,  kidneys,  or  vertebrae  ;  and  even  then 
the  unyielding  victim  not  unfrequently  escapes. 

Buffalo,  wounded  in  the  skirts  of  the  lights,  have  been  known  to  live  for 
several  days  afterwards.  I  have  witnessed  their  escape,  even  after  the  re- 
ception of  fifteen  bullet-wonnds,  and  most  of  them  at  such  points  as  would 
have  proved  fatal  to  almost  any  other  animal. 

In  the  summer  of  '43, 1  myself  killed  one  of  them,  that  had  been  shot 
through  the  pussy  surface  at  the  butt  of  tkj  heart,  apparently  four  or  five 
days  previous,  which  doubtless  would  have  recovered  had  it  remained  un- 
molested. 

A  gun,  suitable  for  killing  this  kind  of  game,  should  never  carry  to  ex- 
ceed forty  balls  to  the  pound — a  lesser  bore  would  be  almost  entirely  use- 
less. The  distance  generally  required  for  a  shot,  the  smallness  of  the 
ball,  its  liability  to  variation  from  the  wind,  with  its  failure  to  "  hold  up  " 
and  retain  its  force,  contribute  to  render  the  use  of  such  a  piece  little  else 
than  idle  waste  of  ammunition. 

Oct  Vlih.  The  sun  arose  bright  and  clear,  and  with  its  first  appearance 
the  caravan  was  in  motion.  Proceeding  up  the  South  Fork  some  ten  miles 
we  halted  for  breakfast,  and  made  arrangements  for  fording  the  stream. 

Near  us  lay  the  carcase  of  one  of  the  cows  wounded  on  the  previous 
evening,  and  as  yet  scarcely  dead.  She  had  travelled  thus  far  after  being 
shot  in  the  lights. 

Our  crossing  was  effected  with  little  difficulty,  but  occupied  till  late  in 
the  afternoon.  The  river  was  full  a  mile  wide  and  very  shallow,  with  a 
soft  sandy  bed,  requiring  the  strength  of  all  the  united  teams  to  each  wag- 
gon. The  day  proved  cold,  and  the  water  was  like  an  application  of  ice  to 
the  naked  skin.  Our  teamsters,  who  were  compelled  to  cross  and  recross, 
some  dozen  times,  felt  in  not  the  best  humor,  and  were  better  pleased  than 
any  one  else  at  the  termination  of  their  unpleasant  task. 

Having  safely  gained  the  opposite  bank,  we  travelled  up  the  river  five 
or  six  miles,  and  halted  for  the  night. 

During  our  course  the  bottoms  upon  either  side  presented  one  dense, 
interminable  band  of  buffalo,  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  The  whole  prairie 
pictured  a  living  mass,  moved  by  impulsive  dread,  as  the  breeze  heralded 
our  approach,  and  the  countless  multitude  made  way  before  and  on  either 
hand. 

Ever  and  anon,  an  old  bull  would  linger,  as  if  to  intimidate,  and  not  uu- 
frequently  venture  within  gun-shot.  One  fellow,  in  particular,  passed  side- 
long, for  a  mile  or  more,  stopping  at  intervals  to  gaze  upon  us,  shaking  his 
shaggy  head  in  defiance,  as  much  as  to  say,  "  you  dare  not  come  near  !" 

Big  Jim  saw  this,  and  his  pride  was  wounded.     The  bull,  in  his  opinion, 


48  RARE  POLITENESS. 

had  challenged  the  whole  party,  and  there  was  no  one  stout-hearted  enough 
to  accept  it. 

Here  was  a  chance  for  a  full  display  of  his  bravery  and  skill.  Evei 
since  we  had  reached  the  buffalo  range,  his  proud  spirit  had  yearned  to  be- 
come the  death  of  some  one  of  these  terrible  monsters,  that  he  might  relate 
the  deed  of  perilous  exploit  to  wondering  posterity,  and  incite  the  rising 
generation  to  emulate  his  noble  achievement. 

But,  alas,  for  the  fadeless  laurels  he  might  otherwise  have  wTon,  in  an 
evil  hour  his  rifle  had  been  sacrificed  for  the  extermination  of  a  huge, 
venomous  serpent.  He  did  the  deed  at  one  fell  blow ; — brave,  but  unfortu- 
nate !  Yet  he  had  one  consolation  amid  his  troubles, — no  victory  is  ever 
gained  without  some  loss  to  the  conquerors. 

Still,  he  needed  his  gun,  for  without  it  how  was  he  to  avenge  the  foul  in- 
sult the  savage  beast  of  the  prairie  was  even  now  hurling  in  the  very  face  of 
the  shrinking  crowd  ?     Something  must  be  done. 

With  these  cogitations,  an  idea  struck  him, — he  could  borrow  a  rifle  ; 
so,  advancing  to  a  comrade,  he  exclaimed  : 

"Do  lend  me  your  rifle,  one  minute  !" 

"  Yes,  Jim,"  was  the  ready  reply.  "  But  see  you  don't  break  it  over  the 
first  paltry  little  snake  you  come  across  !" 

"  That's  a  lie.  'Twas  a  big  rattle-snake  I  broke  mine  over.  'Twasn't 
a  paltry  little  snake  !" 

Thus,  vindicating  his  assaulted  reputation,  he  took  the  gun  and  hastened 
to  prostrate  the  impudent  barbarian  inviting  attack. 

Jim  looked  at  the  bull,  and  the  bull  looked  at  Jim, — shaking  his  head,  and 
throwing  the  loose  sand  from  beneath  him  high  into  the  air  with  his  feet, 
and  goring  the  ground  with  his  horns  of  burnished  ebony.  If  the  creature 
had  looked  terrible  before,  he  now  looked  fourfold  more  so,  in  Jim's  estima- 
tion. 

Thinking  caution  the  parent  of  safety,  our  hero  was  unwilling  to  venture 
further,  and  so,  prostrating  himself  at  full  length  behind  a  clustre  of 
absinthe,  (sage,)  he  planted  his  battery,  having  his  high-crowned  hat  for  a 
rest,  and  blazed  away  at  the  bull's  head. 

The  hardened  wretch  stood  the  shot  without  flinching.  Looking  for  a 
moment  at  the  spot  from  whence  the  strange  salute  had  proceeded,  and 
again  shaking  his  head  and  snorting  with  scorn,  he  wheeled  and  slowly 
trotted  off. 

Eager  to  get  a  second  trial  to  finish  the  work  so  nobly  begun,  our  hero 
commenced  pursuit.  Seeing  him  advancing,  the  bull  thought  it  time  to 
show  his  heels,  and  in  a  few  minutes  was  lost  in  the  distance. 

The  courageous  Nimrod  now,  for  the  first  time,  bethought  him  of  his 
hat,  which,  in  the  ardor  of  his  bold  charge,  he  had  left  at  the  spot  chosen 
as  his  stand  to  hurl  death  and  destruction  to  the  naughty  bull.  He 
hastened  to  regain  it — but  no  hat  could  be  found  ; — the  winds  had  borne  it 
far  away  over  the  prairie,  to  be  worne  out  in  search  of  a  wearer,  and  the 
unlucky  bravo,  hatless,  rejoined  the  caravan. 

Here  the  truth  at  once  flashed  upon  the  minds  of  the  waggish  clique, 
that  had  hitherto  proved  his  sore  annoyance,  and  they  began  anew  : 

44  Now  that  beats  me,  clear  out !  How  came  you  to  give  the  bull  your 
hat  and  leave  yourself  bare-headed  ?     That's  another  wrinkle  !" 


SCENERY  AT  ASH  CREEK.  49 

"  It's  no  such  thing,"  said  Jim.  "  The  wind  took  it  away  ; — and  it's 
none  of  your  business  neither.     I  paid  for  it .'" 

"  True.  But  what  did  the  wind  want  with  your  hat  ?  Sure,  if  it 
needed  a  foot-ball,  to  toss  over  the  prairies,  it  would  have  taken  your  head, 
the  lightest  of  the  two !" 

"  You're  a  fool  !"  retorted  Jim,  indignantly. 

"  There,  now.  That's  the  time  you  cotcht  it,  my  boy.  Why,  fellow, 
Mr.  Jeems  took  off  his  hat,  out  of  pure  politeness, — to  win  the  good  opinion 
of  the  bull.  He  were  right.  Didn't  you  see  how  the  gentleman-cow 
bowed  and  scraped  in  turn.  Why,  he  throw* d  the  dirt  clean  over  his  back, 
not  to  be  outdone  in  good  breeding  !  Ah,  but  the  pesky  wind !  While 
Mr.  Jeems  were  showing  his  brotten  up,  what  had  it  to  do,  but  to  snatch 
his  hat  and  run  off  with  it !  Mr.  Jeems  are  no  fool !  and  the  feller  what 
says  he  am, — (I  want  you  all  to  understand  me ;  Mr.  Jeems  have  been 
most  shamefully  abused  and  misused,  and  I  can  whip  the  chaps  what's 
done  it — provided  they'll  let  me  ; — I  say,  then,  I  want  you  all  to  understand 
me  !)  Mr.  Jeems  are  no  fool,  and  the  man  what  says  he  am — is, — (I  can't 
think  of  words  bad  enough,) — is — is,  as  near  the  mark  as  though  he'd 
drove  centre!" 

"  Aye.  Jim's  right.  You  are  all  a  pack  of  dough-heads  to  make  fun 
of  him  in  the  way  you  do.  Suppose  you'd  be  struck  comical!  Then 
what'd  ye  think  of  yourselves  !" 

"  Poor  Jim.  Shoot  grass,  kill  horse,  break  gun,  burn  shoe,  scorch  foot, 
and  go  bare-headed  !     Wat  him  mean  ?" 

"  I  say,  Jim.  When  're  going  a  hunting  again  ?~ 'case  I  want  to  go 
'long  too !" 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Ash  Creek. — Pawnee  and  Sioux  battle-ground. — Bread-root. — The  Eagle's  Nest.— 
Mad  wolf, — Number  and  variety  of  prairie  wolves, — their  sagacity. — Mad  bull. — 
Making  and  curing  meat. — Big  Jim  still  unfortunate. — Johnson's  creek. — McFar- 
lan's  Castle. — Deceptiveness  of  distances. — Express  from  the  Fort. — Brave  Bear. — 
Bull  Tail. — Talk  with  the  Indians. — Speech  of  Marto-cogershne. — Reply. — Tah- 
tungah-sana's  address. 

Oct  18th.  Bearing  to  the  right,  over  a  high  undulating  prairie,  we 
struck  the  North  Fork  of  the  Platte,  after  a  drive  of  about  twrelve  miles, 
and  continuing  up  its  left  bank  a  short  distance,  camped  for  the  night  at 
the  mouth  of  Ash  Creek. 

The  stream  at  this  place  is  a  broad  bed  of  sand,  entirely  dry,  except  in 
the  spring  months.  Higher  np,  however,  it  affords  a  generous  supply  of  . 
pure  running  water,  sustained  by  the  numerous  feeders  that  force  their 
way  into  it,  from  the  high  grounds  dividing  the  two  rivers. 

The  valley  is  of  variable  width,  and  well  timbered  with  beautiful  ash 
groves,  from  which  the  creek  derives  its  name.  Here  are  also  found  seve- 
ral varieties  of  wild  fruit  indigenous  to  the  mountains.     As  a  whole  it 


88  BREAD- ROOT.— THE  EAGLES  NEST 

presents  to  the  eye  a  pretty  flower-garden,  walled  in  by  huge  piles  of 
argillaceous  rock,  and  watered  by  murmuring  streamlets  whose  banks  are 
ornamented  with  shade  trees  and  shubbery. 

Near  camp  had  been  the  scene  of  a  fierce  and  bloody  battle  between  the 
Pawnees  and  Sioux,  in  the  winter  of  1835.  The  affray  commenced  early 
in  the  morning,  and  continued  till  near  night.  A  trader,  who  was  present 
with  the  Sioux,  on  the  occasion,  describes  it  as  having  been  remarkably 
close.  Every  inch  of  ground  was  disputed — now  the  Pawnees  advancing 
upon  the  retreating  Sioux ;  and  now  the  Sioux,  while  the  Pawnees  gave 
way ;  but,  returning  to  the  charge  with  redoubled  fury,  the  former  once 
more  recoiled.  The  arrows  flew  in  full  showers, — the  bullets  whistled  the 
death-song  of  many  a  warrior, — the  yells  of  combating  savages  filled  the 
air,  and  drowned  the  lesser  din  of  arms. 

At  length  arrows  and  balls  wTere  exhausted  upon  both  sides, — but  still 
the  battle  raged  fiercer  than  before. 

War-club,  tomahawk  and  butcher-knife  wTere  bandied  with  terrific  force, 
as  the  hostile  parties  engaged  hand  to  hand,  and  the  clash  of  resounding 
blows,  commingling  with  the  clamor  of  unearthly  voices  which  rent  the 
very  heavens,  seemed  more  to  prefigure  the  contest  of  fiends  than  aught 
else. 

Finally  the  Pawnees  abandoned  the  field  to  their  victorious  enemies, 
leaving  sixty  of  their  warriors  upon  the  ensanguined  battle-ground.  But 
the  Sioux  had  paid  dearly  for  their  advantage  ; — forty-five  of  their  bravest 
men  lay  mingled  with  the  slain.  The  defeated  party  were  pursued  only  a 
short  distance,  and  then  permitted  to  return  without  further  molestation  to 
•their  village,  at  the  Forks  of  the  Platte. 

?  This  disaster  so  completely  disheartened  the  Pawness,  they  immediately 
abandoned  their  station  and  moved  down  the  river  some  four  hundred 
miles, — nor  have  they  again  ventured  so  high  up,  unless  in  strong  war- 
parties. 

>  About  the  same  time  the  village  on  Republican  fork  of  Kansas  was  also 
abandoned,  and  its  inhabitants  united  with  the  Loups. 
|  The  evidences  of  this  cruel  death-harvest  wrere  yet  scattered  over  the 
prairie,  whose  bones  and  sculls  looked  sad,  indeed.  One  of  the  latter  was 
noticed,  near  camp,  with  a  huge  wasp's  nest  occupying  the  vacuum  once 
filled  by  the  subtle  organs  of  intellect.  Strange  tenant,  truly,  of  a  human 
scull, — but,  perhaps,  not  an  unfit  antitype  of  the  fierce  passions  that 
whilom  claimed  it  as  their  dwelling  place. 

A  specimen  of  the  bread-root,  (psoralea  esculenta,)  was  procured  from 
the  creek-bank  by  one  of  the  voyageurs.  This  is  very  common  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  mountains,  and  attains  a  size  from  twenty  to  thirty  inches  in  circum- 
ference. It  is  taprooted,  and  generally  prefers  the  rich  sandy  soil  of  bot- 
toms and  ravines, — not  unfrequently  penetrating  to  the  depth  of  five  or  six 
feet.  In  shape,  it  is  much  like  the  common  beet.  Its  exterior  is  covered 
with  a  thick  ligument  of  tough  fibres,  curiously  interwoven,  enveloping  a 
white  pulpy  substance,  which  is  very  sweet  and  pleasantly  tasted. 

The  day  following  we  proceeded  some  twenty  miles,  and  camped  at  a 
place  called  the  Eagle's  Nest. 


WOLVES,— THEIR  SAGACITY.  51 

A  few  scattering  trees  at  the  right  of  the  bottom,  here  mark  the  transi- 
tion to  the  high  prairie.  One  of  these  was  the  war-eagle's  eyry,  upon 
which  she  rears  her  annual  brood,  and  teaches  it  to  soar  far  away,  or  levy 
tribute  from  the  surrounding  w  ilderness. 

The  proud  bird  of  Jove  was  yet  sailing  aloft,  in  silent  majesty,  almost  lost 
to  vision  in  the  long  space  of  intervening  blue  that  told  the  grandeur  of  her 
flight ;  and,  tinged  with  the  purple  and  gold  of  the  setting  sun,  she  seemed 
looking  down  with  a  jealous  eye  upon  the  unwonted  invaders  of  he 
earthly  home.  A  few  light  clouds,  garnished  with  day's  departing  glory 
danced  athwart  the  western  sky,  as  the  full  moon  arose,  hastening  to  re- 
enter her  nightly  pathway,  and  course  amid  the  array  of  glittering  worlds, 
and  smile  upon  the  wide  realms  of  Solitude ; — while  countless  herds  of 
grazing  buffalo  covered  the  prairies  on  either  side  of  the  broad  and  silent 
river ;  and  naught  met  the  listening  ear,  save  the  dolesome  hooting  of  the 
midnight  owl,  as  she  resumed  her  nocturnal  ditty,  to  enhance  the  deep 
melancholy  of  loneliness ;  or  the  shrill  whistlings  of  the  prairie-winds,  as 
they  sported  in  mirth  and  chanted  their  requiems  to  the  dying  year  ;  or  the 
terrific  bellowings  of  the  hoarse-toned  bison,  the  softening  cadence  of  whose 
voices  sounded  trebly  mournful  as  it  swept  far  along  and  became  lost  in 
the  distance  ;  or  yet,  the  dismal  howlings  of  the  hall-starved  wolves,  that 
gathered  by  scores  upon  every  hill-top  and  renewed,  in  more  piteous  accents, 
their  ceaseless  concert ; — all  these  united  to  invest  the  scene,  so  magnifi- 
cent in  itself,  with  a  savage  wildness,  at  once  incitive  of  terror  and  admi- 
ration. / 

In  our  progress  during  the  day  I  remarked,  at  frequent  intervals,  bare 
places  coated  with  saline  efflorescences,  and  occasional  plats  of  fine  bluish 
grass,  (herba  salee,) — appearances  quite  common  from  this  onward. 

Our  night  slumbers  were  disturbed  by  the  quick  discharge  of  firearms, 
which  instantly  brought  every  man  to  his  feet,  rifle  in  hand.  The  cause 
of  this  alarm  was  the  appearance  of  a  mad  wolf  among  the  caravan  ani- 
mals, and  several  shots  were  fired  before  the  guard  could  despatch  him. 
He  proved  one  of  the  largest  of  his  species,  and  looked  fearful  as  his 
blood-red  eyeballs  and  foaming  mouth  were  exposed  by  the  camp-fire. 

In  the  morning  it  was  ascertained  he  had  bitten  nine  head  of  horses  and 
cattle. 

The  buffalo  range  affords  every  variety  of  wolves,  common  to  the  moun- 
tains and  regions  still  further  west.  Of  these  there  are  five  distinct  classi- 
fications, viz :  The  big  white,  or  buffalo  wolf ;  the  shaggy  brown ;  the 
black ;  the  gray,  or  prairie  wolf ;  and  the  cayeute,  (wa-chunka-monet,)  or 
medicine-wolf  of  the  Indians. 

The  white  and  brown  wolves  are  the  most  numerous,  and  follow  the 
buffalo  in  bands  of  hundreds,  subsisting  upon  the  carcases  of  such  as  die 
of  themselves  or  are  slaughtered  as  their  necessities  demand. 

These  wolves  behave  with  great  sagacity  in  their  predatory  operations. 
and  appear  to  exercise  a  perfect  understanding  and  concert  of  action  with 
each  other  on  such  occasions.  First,  stationing  themselves  by  files  at 
given  distances  along  the  course  their  intended  victim  is  expected  to  run, 
two  or  more  of  them  enter  the  herd  of  unconscious  buffalo,  and,  singling 


52  A  MAD  BULL. 

out  the  fattest  one,  drive  it  to  the  track  at  which  their  companions  await 
to  take  part  in  the  grand  race.  This  done,  the  victim  is  made  to  run 
the  gauntlet  between  two  rows  of  wolves.  As  it  advances,  others  join 
their  fresh  numbers  to  the  chase,  till  at  length,  tired  down  and  exhausted 
in  strength,  the  ill-fated  animal  falls  ready  prey  to  their  greediness.  The 
poor  creature  is  first  hamstrung  to  prevent  its  escape,  and  then  literally 
devoured  alive  ! 

The  black  wolf  is  seldom  met  with  in  these  parts.  It  nearly  equals  the 
white  and  brown  in  size,  and  is  fully  as  large  as  the  common  cur-dog. 

The  prairie  wolf  is  not  more  than  half  the  size  of  the  above  mentioned, 
and  much  less  ferocious.  Its  color  is  of  a  dark  gray,  and  its  fur  quite 
soft  and  fine. 

The  cayeute  or  medicine-wolf  compares  with  the  common  feist,  and  is 
of  a  grayish  color,  much  like  that  of  the  wild  rabbit  of  the  States.  Its 
fur  is  fine  and  thick,  and  might  be  turned  to  good  account  for  the  manu- 
facture of  caps,  muffs,  &c. 

The  Indians  cherish  many  superstitious  notions  in  regard  to  this  ani- 
mal, and  hold  it  in  great  veneration.  They  consider  it  as  the  messenger 
employed  by  the  Great  Spirit,  on  special  occasions,  to  herald  the  approach 
of  events  interesting  to  the  welfare  of  his  red  children,  and  for  that  reason 
they  are  never  known  to  harm  or  molest  it. 

Just  at  daylight,  a  large  band  of  buffalo  crossed  the  river  nearly  oppo- 
site to  camp.  It  was  headed  by  an  old  bull,  that  led  the  way,  grunting 
and  bellowing  as  he  advanced,  as  if  in  mock  personation  of  the  bugieman  of 
a  corps  of  cavalry.  Some  three  or  four  hundred  cows  and  calves  fol- 
lowed, side  by  side,  with  marked  and  regular  tread,  like  platoons  of  infantry 
marching  in  set  step  to  music,  presenting  a  truly  comical  exhibition. 

A  voyageur  seized  his  rifle  and  saluted  with  its  contents  the  music- 
master  and  captain-general  of  the  advancing  army,  as  he  was  about  to  ascend 
the  river  bank.  In  an  instant  the  whole  detachment  to  "  right  about 
face,"  and  retreat  precipitately  to  the  rearward  shore,  with  no  other 
music  than  the  clatter  of  hoofs  and  the  splashing  of  water,  or  order  than 
the  confused  rivalry  for  speedy  escape  from  the  unexpected  presence  of 
danger. 

Oct.  20lh.  Resuming  our  course,  during  the  forenoon,  the  strange  de- 
portment of  a  buffalo  bull  near  the  trail  arrested  attention. 

He  was  running  in  a  circle,  at  the  height  of  his  speed,  and  narrowing 
its  sphere  at  each  gyration.  Several  of  us  rode  out  to  him, — but  he  still, 
continued,  (with  frothing  mouth  and  protruding  tongue,  swollen  to  the 
utmost  distention  of  his  jaws,  rolling  eye-balls,  like  globes  of  clotted  gore ; 
and  bellowing  for  pain,)  following  the  fast-decreasing  limits  of  his  strange 
course,  regardless  of  our  presence. 

He  soon  commenced  whirling  round  and  round,  with  faltering,  half 
stumbling  steps,  and  finally  fell  prostrate  before  us,  apparently  in  the  last 
paroxysm  of  mortal  agony.  In  vain  he  struggled  to  rise,  while  his  tongue 
bled  from  between  his  jaws,  chafed  in  fruitless  effort  to  close  them,  and  his 
head,  keeping  time  with  the  convulsive  throes  of  his  fast-waning  strength, 
tore  up  the  prairie-sod  and  lashed  the  ground  in  the  mad  fury  of  effort. 


BIG  JIM  STILL  UNFORTUNATE.  53 

The  spectacle  was  one  of  the  most  striking  exhibitions  of  excruciating 
pain  I  ever  witnessed.  Even  the  rough  mountaineers  were  excited  to 
pity,  and  gladly  alleviated  his  miseries  by  hastening  his  end.  A  friendly 
bullet  put  a  period  to  his  sufferings,  and  placed  him  far  beyond  the  reach 
of  summer's  heat  and  winter's  cold,  mad  wolves  and  all  the  inexpressible 
horrors  of  hydrophobia. 

At  our  noon  encampment  we  commenced  the  process  of  c'  making 
meat,"  preparatory  to  passing  a  long  distance  devoid  of  game ;  and,  as  the 
reader  may  be  anxious  to  know  what  kind  of  an  operation  this  is,  I  will 
explain.  It  consists  simply  in  cutting  into  thin  slices  the  boneless  parts 
of  buffalo,  or  other  meat,  and  drying  them  in  the  wind  or  sun.  Meat  thus 
cured  may  be  preserved  for  years  without  salt.  Ropes  of  raw  hide  were 
stretched  around  the  waggons,  upon  which  the  results  of  our  labor  were 
left  to  the  finishing  effects  of  the  wind  and  sun  as  we  proceeded, — thus 
making  an  important  saving  in  the  item  of  time. 

It  is  astonishing  how  long  a  time  fresh  meat  may  be  kept  without  injury, 
upon  the  grand  prairies,  in  dry  weather,  when  it  receives  the  free  access 
of  air.  Some  of  that  killed  on  our  first  arrival  among  buffalo  was  yet 
hanging  to  the  waggons,  as  sweet  and  sound  as  ever.  I  have  known  it  to 
be  preserved,  in  this  way,  for  ten  or  twelve  days  in  the  heart  of  summer. 
Meat,  packed  in  snow,  while  in  a  frozen  state,  may  be  retained  fresh  for 
months  without  injury.  I  have  known  an  instance  of  its  being  thus  kept 
from  January  till  June.  The  air  is  so  pure  and  dry,  it  requires  but  little 
effort  to  preserve  meat,  for  any  requisite  length  of  time,  almost  at  any 
season  of  the  year. 

Our  hunter,  having  proceeded  in  advance  of  the  waggons  during  the 
afternoon,  was  overtaken  about  sundown  at  a  place  selected  for  night- 
camp,  which  he  had  ornamented  with  the  carcases  of  three  cows, — and 
there  again,  was  soon  witnessed  another  display  of  rare  feasting,  such  as 
mountaineers  alone  know  how  to  appreciate  and  enjoy. 

The  night  proved  cold  and  uncomfortable,  and  the  bright-glowing  camp 
fifes  presented  most  captivating  inducements  to  the  shivering  sentinels,  as 
they  paced  their  dreary  rounds,  to  step  within  its  cheering  influence.  Big 
Jim,  who  was  on  the  third  "  relieve,"  thought  it  too  bad  he  should  be  com- 
pelled to  suffer  so  much  from  cold,  while  a  nice  warm  fire  was  permitted 
to  waste*  its  kind  heat  upon  the  bleak  air  of  night,  without  so  much  as  one 
to  enjoy  its  beneficence. 

No,  it  would  not  do.  "  Why  mayn't  I  just  as  well  stand  guard  at  the 
fire,  as  elsewhere  ?  I  can,  I'm  sure.  I'll  stand  this  time,  and  not  lay  as  I 
did  before,  and  then  there'll  be  no  danger  of  falling  asleep  and  burning 
one's  self ;  nor'll  they  have  the  chance  to  twit  me  about  lying  guard  and 
burning  shins.  I'll  head  'em  this  time,  and  they  wont  know  the  differ- 
ence." 

So  saying,  he  approached  the  fire,  and,  giving  it  a  kick,  extended  his 
hands  towards  its  blaze, — ever  and  anon  rubbing  them  together  and  then 
again  spreading  them  to  receive  its  pleasing  warmth ;  then  turning  his 
back  to  partake  alike  of  its  comforting  influences  and  obviate  the  jealousy 
that  might  otherwise  be  engendered  between  front  and  rear. 


54  JOHNSON'S  CREEK. 

Now,  he  stands  attent, — he  hears  something  move.  He  stretches  himself 
to  his  lull  height,  on  tip-toe,  and  gazes  in  the  black  envelope  of  surround- 
ing night,  made  doubly  obscure  in  contrast  with  the  refulgence  of  the 
camp-tire. 

*  How  dark  it  has  grown  !"  said  Jim.  "  What  can  it  be  ?  Wonder  if 
it's  Indians.  Pooh  !  it's  nothing  but  the  wind.  Bless  me,  I  can't  see  the 
use  of  a  poor  devil's  standing  guard  on  such  a  dark  night  as  this  !  (step- 
ping backward  still  nearer  the  fire,)  he  can't  see  nothing,  if  he  does. 
Feugh, — what  is  it  smells  so  ?  (turning  round.)  Good  gracious,  how  hot 
my  back  is !" 

The  mystery  of  Jim's  present  predicament  is  easily  explained.  The 
skirts  of  his  jeans  coat,  having  come  in  contact  with  the  wind-tossed  flames, 
caught  fire,  and  were  burned  to  the  shoulders  before  he  was  aware  of  the 
accident.  The  garment  was  rendered  entirely  useless,  and  even  his  panta- 
loons were  burnt  to  his  skin,  in  several  places. 

Jim  began  to  think  it  as  bad  to  stand  as  to  lay  guard,  and  concluded 
that,  of  the  two,  fire  was  more  dangerous  than  Indians  ; — for,  one  thing 
was  certain,  the  Indians  had  never  yet  injured  him,  but  he  could  not  say  as 
much  of  fire ! 

In  the  morning,  as  may  be  supposed,  our  hero's  last  mishap  was  the 
prolific  subject  of  comment,  and  the  wags  were  promptly  on  the  alert  to 
amuse  themselves  still  further  at  his  expense : 

"  Say,  would  you  believe  it ! — That's  the  way  Jim  's  hit  upon  to  shine  in 
this  crowd, — he  burns  up  his  old  coat  to  make  a  light  .'" 

*  Ah,  ha !  So  he  means  to  shine  by  the  light  of  his  old  clothes,  and 
come  it  over  us  in  an  underhand  manner  !  Jim,  that  'il  never  do  ; — I  tell 
you,  once  for  all." 

"  Wonder  if  he  wont  burn  up  himself  next  ?" 

"  He  ?  No.  He's  too  green  and  sappy  to  burn  himself,  and  so  he  takes 
his  old  clothes  !" 

"  Poor  Jim.  Shoot  grass,  kill  horse,  break  gun,  burn  shoe,  scorch  foot, 
lose  hat,  stick  coat  in  him  fire !  Poor  fellow.  No  can  do  without  Jim, 
no  how." 

The  third  day  succeeding  the  last  mentioned  adventure,  we  passed  a 
stream,  called  by  the  traders  Johnson's  creek,  in  memory  of  a  man  by  that 
name  who  was  murdered  in  its  vicinity,  several  years  since,  by  the 
Indians. 

I  ,*-  He  was  a  missionary,  and  on  his  way  to  Oregon,  with  a  party  headed  by 
one  John  Gray.  As  they  were  about  to  raise  camp,  one  morning,  a  band 
of  Yanktau-Sioux  came  charging  over  the  hills,  and  preparations  were 
made  to  resist  them.  Such  a  course  Mr.  Johnson  felt  scrupulous  of  acced- 
ing to,  and  stoutly  protested  against  it, — affirming  it  to  be  wrong. 

As  the  savages  approached,  the  ill-fated  man  stepped  forward  to  meet 
them  unarmed,  despite  the  remonstrances  of  his  comrades, — imagining  the 
Indians  would  not  kill  him,  as  he  was  a  missionary  and  had  came  to  do 
them  good. 

They,  however,  proved  regardless  of  him  or  his  intended  good,  and  he 
fell  the  victim  of  his  own  foolish  credulity.  Three  Indians  fell  in  the  con- 
flict that  ensued,  and  he  and  they  filled  the  same  grave. 


THE  BRAVE  BEAR. 

Oct  24th.  About  noon  we  crossed  Gonneville's  creek,  a  large  easterly- 
affluent  of  the  Platte.  This  stream  also  derives  its  name  from  a  trapper, 
killed  near  it  in  an  Indian  fight,  some  eight  years  since. 

Upon  the  south  bank  of  Gonneville's  creek,  ten  or  twelve  miles  from  the 
river,  is  a  singular  natural  formation,  known  as  the  Court  House,  or 
McFarlan's  Casde,  on  account  of  its  fancied  resemblance  to  such  a  struc- 
ture. It  rises  in  an  abrupt  quadrangular  form,  to  a  height  of  three  or 
four  hundred  feet,  and  covers  an  area  of  two  hundred  yards  in  length  by 
one  hundred  and  fifty  broad.  Occupying  a  perfectly  level  site  in  an  open 
prairie,  it  stands  as  the  proud  palace  of  Solitude,  amid  her  boundless  do- 
mains. 

Its  position  commands  a  view  of  the  country  for  forty  miles  around,  and 
meets  the  eye  of  the  traveller  for  several  successive  days,  in  journeying 
up  the  Platte.  We  have  been  in  sight  of  it  for  three  days,  and  even  now 
seem  no  nearer  than  at  first,  notwithstanding  our  course,  meanwhile,  has 
borne  not  far  from  a  direct  line  towards  it. 

Here,  for  the  first  time,  I  remarked  the  deceptiveness  of  distances,  on 
the  high  prairies  and  in  regions  adjacent  to  the  mountains.  Sometimes  an 
object  will  appear  as  if  within  a  mile,  at  most,  which  cannot  be  reached 
short  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles ;  then,  again,  objects  will  seem  to  be  much 
further  off  than  they  really  are. 

I  attribute  this,  in  part,  to  three  several  causes  : — First,  the  variable  state 
of  the  atmosphere,  in  regard  to  density.  Second,  the  absence  or  plenitude 
of  humid  exhalations  and  efrluviae  in  the  air  of  different  regions.  Third, 
the  peculiar  locality  of  some  places  in  regard  to  the  reception  of  the  sun's 
rays. 

In  passing  from  Gonneville's  creek  to  Fort  Platte,  we  encountered  no 
more  buffalo, — these  animals  having  been  driven  back  into  the  high  prairies 
by  bands  of  strolling  Indians. 

If  the  prospect  had  hitherto  been  lonesome,  it  now  seemed  threefold 
lonely.  The  hard-beaten  footpaths  that  had  furrowed  the  bottoms  and 
plains,  in  all  directions,  ever  since  our  first  entrance  to  the  buffalo  range, 
were  still  seen  ;  but,  unhonored  by  the  presence  and  unmarked  by  the  foot- 
prints of  their  whilom  travellers,  they  looked  like  the  once  oft-trodden 
streets  of  some  deserted  city. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  were  joined  by  two  engages  from  Fort  Platte, 
whose  object  it  was  to  hasten  our  advance.  Soon  after,  we  entered  upon 
a  stretch  of  burnt  prairie,  and  were  compelled  to  travel  till  daylight  the 
next  morning,  before  a  sufficiency  of  grass  could  be  found  for  a  camping 
place. 

Oct.  25th.  Resuming  our  course  about  midday,  we  had  proceeded  only 
a  few  miles,  when  a  mounted  Indian  appeared  upon  the  opposite  bank  of 
the  river,  and  accosted  us  : 

"  Chay,  cullo  ! — Hanno  chaum-pa-monet  ha  Mena-huska  tour  ?"  (Tell 
me,  friend  ! — Are  those  the  Long-knife's*  waggons  ?) 

*  This  term  seems  to  call  for  a  word  of  explanation.  Onr  company  was  designate*! 
by  the  Indians  as  the  Long-knife,  or  American  company, — a  term  by  which  a.l 


56  BULL -TAIL. 

On  being  answered  in  the  affirmative,  he  commenced  crossing  to  join  us. 

Plunging  into  the  river  with  his  horse,  he  had  proceeded  about  midway 
of  the  stream,  when  the  panting  beast  suddenly  sank  into  the  quicksand, 
throwing  its  rider  head  foremost  into  the  water.  At  length,  having  effected 
a  ford,  he  hurried  up  to  us,  profusely  dripping  with  wet.  as  evidence  of 
the  thoroughness  of  his  recent  drenching. 

First  shaking  hands  with  the  company,  he  began  to  inquire  about  liquor, 
affirming  the  waggons  contained  that  article,  and  adding,  it  was  "  right  the 
Long-knife  should  bring  the  fire-water  to  give  to  the  red  man,"  as  did  the 
Bad-medicine, — but  it  was  wrong  to  sell  it.  For  his  part  he  would  not  buy 
the  fire-water.  He  would  buy  blankets,  knives,  beads,  and  ammunition, — 
not  the  fire-water  ;  but  the  Long-knife  should  give  it  to  him. 

The  personage  thus  introduced  was  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Brule- 
Sioux,  and  sported  the  name  of  Marto-cogershne,  or  Brave  Bear.  He  w'as 
a  turbulent  fellow,  that  proved  the  pest  of  his  village  traders.  Slim  and 
spare-made  in  person,  he  was  somewhat  pale  and  sickly  looking,  and  seemed 
about  thirty  years  of  age.  His  arms  were  a  short  fusee,  with  a  bow  and 
arrows  slung  to  his  shoulders,  and  a  butcher-knife  affixed  to  his  belt.  His 
hair  was  long,  parted  in  front,  and  turned  backwards ;  that  upon  the  occiput, 
being  bound  in  a  cluster  with  panther's  skin,  hung  in  a  plated  cue  and 
almost  trailed  the  ground,  while  a  lone  eagle's  plume  completed  his  head- 
dress. A  robe  enveloped  his  body,  which,  with  moccasins,  leggins,  and 
breech-cloth,  constituted  his  full  costume, — a  description  of  dress  respond- 
ing to  that  almost  universally  common  among  mountain  tribes. 

We  were  soon  joined  by  others  of  his  people,  who  eagerly  enquired  re- 
specting the  amount  of  liquor  brought  with  us. 

Among  these  were  several  individuals  recognized  by  our  voyageurs  as 
old  acquaintances ;  particularly  one,  an  old  chief  called  Bull  Tail,  (Tah- 
tunga-sana,)  who  was  distinguished  in  attire  from  all  his  fellows  by  the 
addition  of  a  hair-seal  cap  and  a  frock-coat,  which  he  had  received  as  pre 
sents  from  the  whites. 

One  of  our  party  gave  a  favorable  account  of  the  old  fellow,  and  related 
a  story  much  to  his  credit. 

The  narrator,  during  the  previous  winter,  while  searching  for  stray  horses 
among  the  hills,  had  become  so  bewildered  he  was  unable  to  find  his  way 
back  to  camp.  He  thus  wandered  for  four  successive  days,  unarmed,  with- 
out food,  and  with  but  a  single  robe  for  covering.  His  destiny  would, 
doubtless,  have  been  to  perish,  had  not  the  kind  hearted  Tah-tunga-sana 
discovered  him,  and,  pitying  his  forlorn  condition,  taken  him  to  the  village, 
upon  his  own  horse,  some  twenty  miles  off,  going  himself  On  foot  the  entire 
distance.  Here,  the  lost  one  was  treated  to  the  best  the  lodge  of  his  de- 
liverer afforded,  and,  when  sufficiently  recovered,  he  was  escorted  to  the 
nearest  station  of  the  whites. 

I  turned  lor  another  look  at  the  worthy  chieftain,  who  now  rode  up 
and  greeted  his  protege  with  much  cordiality. 

Americans  are  known  among  them.  The  American  Fur  Company,  employing  almost 
exclusively  Frenchmen,  or  individuals  speaking  the  French  language,  receives  the 
appellation  of  Wah-ceicha,  or  the  Bad-medicine  company, — a  phrase  universally  ap 
plied  to  the  French  among  the  mountain  tribes. 


CHIEF  OF  THE  BRULE  SIOUX—  Page  56. 


, 


SPEECH  OF  MARTO-COGERSHNE.  57 


He  appeared  to  be  about  eighty  years  of  age,  and  was  gray-headed, 
spare-visaged,  and  much  wrinkled.  His  coat,  buttoned  close  around  him, 
served  for  a  robe,  while  his  matted  ear-locks  disclosed  upon  the  one  side  a 
raven's  and  upon  the  other  a  hawk's  feather,  for  ornaments.  His  face, 
like  those  of  his  companions,  was  liberally  bedaubed  with  vermilion,  and 
each  cheek  embellished  with  alternate  spots  of  white  and  black,  by  way  of 
variety.     His  only  weapons  were  a  bow,  arrows,  and  a  tomahawk-pipe. 

As  a  whole,  he  presented  rather  a  shabby  and  ludricrous  appearance, 
that,  were  it  not  for  the  recollection  of  his  worthy  conduct,  would  have  ex- 
cited, in  the  mind  of  the  beholder,  far  more  of  contempt  than  interest. 

A  Sioux  squaw,  the  wife  of  a  French  engage,  accompanying  us  on  her 
return  from  the  States,  now  received  the  marked  attention  of  our  visitors. 
It  is  rare  that  an  Indian  will  shake  hands  with  a  woman  ;  but  now,  they 
might  break  through  the  restraints  of  custom ;  this  was  a  special  case ;  she 
had  visited  the  white  man's  lodge,  and  could  tell  them  many  interesting 
things, — she  was  something  more  than  a  common  squaw, — they  might 
shake  hands  with  her.  She  was  accordingly  greeted  in  a  most  flattering 
manner,  and  found  tedious  employment  in  answering  the  numerous  ques- 
tions with  which  she  was  plied. 

Continuing  for  a  few  miles  further,  we  made  camp  just  at  nightfall,  and 
were  promptly  joined  by  a  new  recruit  of  inquisitive  visitors,  from  an  ad- 
joining village. 

The  whole  throng  of  Indians  now  numbered  some  thirty,  and  demanded 
a  "  talk  "  with  the  Long-knife.  Upon  this  a  circle  was  formed,  with  the 
whites  upon  one  side  and  Indians  upon  the  other,  when  Marto-cogershne 
opened  the  harangue  in  behalf  of  his  people. 

He  commenced  in  a  low,  distinct  tone  of  voice.  His  robe,  dawn  loosely 
around  him,  was  held  to  its  place  by  the  left  hand,  exposing  his  right  arm 
and  shoulder.  As  he  proceeded  he  became  more  animated,  and  seemed  to 
enter  into  the  full  spirit  of  his  discourse.  The  modulations  of  his  voice, 
its  deep  intonations  and  expressive  cadences,  coupled  with  a  corresponding 
appropriateness  of  every  look  and  gesture,  presented  one  of  the  most  per- 
fect specimens  of  delivery  I  ever  witnessed. 

His  speech,  as  imperfectly  translated  upon  the  occasion,  ran  as  follows  : 

M  Long-knife  :  We  are  glad  to  see  you — we  are  glad  to  see  your  people, 
and  shake  you  all  by  the  hand,  that  we  may  smoke  together  and  be 
friends. 

"  Long-knife :  We  are  glad  the  Great  Spirit  has  put  it  into  your  heart  to 
return  with  the  road-travellers,  (waggons,)  and  the  white  buftklo,  (oxen,) 
and  the  medicine-dogs,  (horses,)  bearing  fire-water,  (whiskey,)  blankets, 
and  many  other  good  things,  ere  yet  the  chill  winds  and  snows  have  com- 
pelled His  children  to  light  the  lodge-fires  of  winter.  The  Long-knife 
brings  choice  things  to  the  red  man,  and  it  is  good  that  we  trade.  (Ap- 
plause.) 

"  The  Great  Spirit  is  good  to  His  children.  To  us  He  has  given  the 
buffalo,  the  elk,  the  deer,  and  the  antelope,  that  we  may  be  fed  and  clothed, 
and  furnished  with  lodges  to  shelter  us  from  the  storms  and  cold.  To  us 
He  has  given  the  mountains  and  prairies,  for  hunting  grounds.  For  us  He 
has  taught  the  streams  to  flow,  and  planted  trees  upon  their  banks,  to  give 


58  THE  REPLY. 

us  food  and  drink,  that  we  may  meet  around  our  lodge-fires  with  comfort 
and  rejoice  in  His  goodness,  even  while  he  spreads  his  white  robe  upon  the 
hills,  and  lays  the  couch  of  winter  upon  the  plains. 

"All  these — all  this  country — everything  that  the  Long-knife  beholds  are 
ours.  The  Yellow-hair*  said  truly, — all,  all  belong  to  us  ; — we  have  them 
— the  Great  Spirit  has  given  them  to  us, — they  are  ours !  (Great  ap- 
plause.) 

"  Long-knife :  You  have  come  to  trade  with  us  : — it  is  good.  Your 
people  are  wise,  and  make  many  things ; — you  bring  them  to  us,  and  we 
take  them ;  but  we  give  you  robes  and  horses  in  their  stead ; — we  pay  you 
for  them  all.     Yet,  the  Long-knife  pays  not  for  all  he  takes  from  us. 

"  Do  I  say  the  Long-knife  steals  ?  No.  The  Long-knife  will  not  steal. 
He  says,  none  but  bad  men  steal,  and  the  Long-knife  is  not  bad.  But  yet 
he  takes  our  property  without  paying  for  it !  He  kills  our  game,  he  eats  our 
meat,  he  burns  our  wood,  he  drinks  our  water,  and  he  travels  our  country, — 
and  what  does  he  give  the  red  man  in  exchange  for  all  this  ?  (Unbounded 
applause.) 

"  Long-knife  and  friend  :  My  people  are  generous, — they  are  brave, — 
they  are  all  soldiers.  The  Long-knife  bears  the  fire-water  in  his  road- 
traveJlers,  (waggons  ;) — we  have  heard  of  it  and  are  glad. 

"  My  people  would  drink  of  the  fire-water  that  their  strong  hearts  may 
become  stronger.  It  is  good  that  they  should  drink  it, — it  is  good  that  the 
Long-knife  should  give  it  to  them ;  that  we  be  twice  glad  to  see  him,  and 
bless  him  in  our  hearts  while  we  drink  around  our  lodge-fires.  (Ap- 
plause.) 

"  Long-knife :  Would  you  be  our  friend  ?  Then  give  us  the  fire-water. 
My  people  are  generous,  but  they  are  brave.  The  Long-knife  has  taken 
our  property,  let  him  refuse  not  the  fire-water,  lest  they  be  angry  and  rise 
like  the  mountain  bear,  nerved  for  conflict.  Then  will  they  take  it  of 
themselves  and  avenge  the  wrongs  of  the  red  man  !"     (Great  applause.) 

Upon  this,  the  Brave  Bear  resumed  his  seat,  and  the  commandant  began 
his  reply,  which  was  rendered  into  the  Sioux  language,  by  their  inter- 
preter.    The  purport  of  it  was  : 

"  It  is  true,  the  Great  Spirit  is  good  to  His  children.  He  made  all  things 
of  which  the  Brave  Bear  speaks,  and  He  has  given  them  to  his  children. 
The  white  and  the  red  man  are  alike  his  children;  the  buffalo,  the  elk,  the 
deer,  and  the  antelope,  with  the  wood,  the  water,  and  the  whole  country 
around,  equally  belong  to  both. 

"  I  and  many  people  have  come  as  friends,  to  trade  with  you.  We  have 
smoked  with  you  before.  The  Long-knife  takes  nothing  from  you  he  pays 
not  for.  He  buys  the  things  he  bears  to  you  in  a  far  distant  country,  and 
throws  for  them  the  white-iron.f  He  brings  them  to  you  and  swaps  them 
for  robes  and  horses. 

"He  takes  nothing  without  paying  for  it,  unless  it  be  that  which  the  Great 
Spirit  has  given  equally  to  his  children, — the  white  and  the  red  man. 

*  This  is  the  name  applied,  by  the  Indians,  to  Gen.  Clarke,  one  of  the  leaders  of  the 
first  party  of  whites  that  ever  crossed  the  mountains.  An  allusion  is  here  had  to  an 
expression  made  use  of  in  his  talk  to  the  Sioux  on  that  occasion. 

t  Silver.  This  phrase  is  the  Sioux  mode  of  expressing  the  act  of  paying  money 
for  any  article. 


TAH-TUNGA-SANA'S  ADDRESS.  69 

"  Would  the  Brave  Bear  and  his  people  be  friends  to  us  ?  We  are  friend- 
ly— we  are  generous.  We  will  give  tobacco  to  the  Brave  Bear,  that  he 
and  his  people  may  smoke  and  be  our  friends.  But  the  Long-knife  will 
not  here  give  him  the  fire-water.  Let  him  come  to  the  Long-knife's  lodge, 
then  shall  he  have  of  it  a  little,  that  he  may  bless  the  Long-knife  in  his 
heart.     The  Brave  Bear  can  have  none  now. 

"  The  Brave  Bear  says,  his  people  are  generous,  but  they  are  brave. — they 
are  all  soldiers.  Be  it  so.  My  people  are  generous, — they  are  brave — 
they  are  all  soldiers  !  Does  the  Brave  Bear  wish  for  fight  ?  My  people  are 
ready  to  either  smoke  or  fight !  The  Brave  Bear  says,  unless  I  give  him 
the  fire-water  for  his  people,  they  will  nerve  their  arms  for  conflict,  and 
take  it !  Will  they  ?  Let  them  try !  The  Long-knife  says,  let  them 
try!" 

The  conclusion  of  this  reply  was  received  with  a  bad  grace  by  those  to 
whom  it  was  addressed,  and  created  great  excitement  among  them.  Seve- 
ral left  for  the  village,  obviously  for  the  purpose  of  arming  and  returning 
with  increased  numbers  to  the  meditated  attack. 

Meanwhile  our  arms  were  put  in  a  proper  condition  for  resistance,  and 
all  needful  arrangements  made  to  give  the  assailants  a  warm  reception 
should  they  commence  upon  us.  This  done,  our  commandant  brought  a 
few  plugs  of  tobacco,  and,  laying  them  before  the  Brave  Bear,  said : 

"  It  is  good  that  the  Brave  Bear  and  his  people  should  smoke.  Here  is 
tobacco, — let  him  take  it  to  his  warriors  that  wTe  and  they  be  friends ; — or 
would  he  rather  fight?" 

Bull  Tail,  (Tah-tunga-sana,)  who  had  had  hitherto  remained  silent,  now 
arose  and  addressed  his  companions: 

"Tah-tunga-sana  is  grieved  at  the  words  of  the  Brave  Bear.  Would 
my  brothers  fight  the  Long-knife,  and  rob  him  of  what  he  has  brought  to  us, 
that  they  may  become  fools  by  drinking  the  fire-water  ? 

"  Who  shall  then  bring  us  medicine-irons  (guns)  to  kill  our  meat ;  or 
knives  to  butcher  it ;  or  blankets  and  beads  for  our  squaws ;  or  the  red- 
earth  (vermilion)  to  paint  our  faces  when  we  arm  for  war  ?  And,  who 
shall  bring  us  all  the  other  things  so  needful  for  us  ? 

"  The  Long-knife  will  not  do  it.  You  rob  him.  No  one  will  bring  them 
to  us.     We  shall  be  without  them !     We  shall  be  poor  indeed  ! 

u  Brothers :  Why  would  you  drink  the  fire-water,  and  become  fools  ? 
Would  it  not  be  better  that  the  Long-knife  no  more  bring  it  to  us  ?  We 
give  for  it  our  robes  and  our  horses ; — it  does  us  no  good.  It  makes  us 
poor.  We  fight  our  own  brothers,  and  kill  those  we  love,  because  the  fire- 
water is  in  us  and  makes  our  hearts  bad !  The  fire-water  is  the  red  man's 
enemy ! 

"Brothers:  Tah-tunga-sana  is  old; — will  you  listen  to  him.  He  has 
been  always  the  friend  of  the  pale-face.  When  first  the  Yellow-hair  (Gen. 
Clarke)  came  to  the  red  man's  lodge,  Tah-tunga-sana  took  him  by  the  hand. 
He  will  always  take  the  pale -face  by  the  hand.  He  loves  the  pale-face. 
The  pale-face  is  his  brother, — he  is  our  brother  ! — He  brings  us  many  good 
things. 

"  Brothers  :  The  Long-knife  has  spoken  well.  It  is  good  that  we  smoke, 
— that  wre,  and  the  Long-knife,  and  his  people  may  be  friends.     Let  us  ac- 

6 


60  THE  CHIMNEY. 

cept  his  present,  and  go  to  our  lodges,  and  there  tell  to  our  children  how 
kind  the  Long-knife  is  to  the  red  man." 

The  speech  was  received  in  silence, — no  one  expressing  either  approba- 
tion or  dissent,  as  the  old  man  resumed  his  seat.  The  Brave  Bear  hung 
his  head  sullenly,  but  said  nothing. 

The  talk  had  evidently  come  to  a  close.  At  last,  Bull  Tail  arose,  and, 
shaking  hands  with  the  commandant  and  each  of  the  company,  took  the 
tobacco  and  left  for  the  village.  The  others  soon  after,  one  by  one,  follow- 
ed his  example,  and  we  were  finally  rid  of  their  unwelcome  presence ; — 
not,  however,  until  they  had  stolen  an  axe  and  several  other  articles,  de- 
spite the  strictness  of  our  vigilance. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


The  Chimney. — A  bet. — Spur  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. — Scott's  Bluff. — Romantic 
scenery. — Mimic  city. — A  pyramid. — A  monument. — An  elevated  garden. — Moun- 
tain sheep. — An  Eden. — Death  in  camp. — The  wanderer's  grave. — Horse  Creek 
and  gold. — Goche's  hole. — Arrival  at  Fort  Platte. — Remarks  by  the  way. — 
Prairie  travel. — Locality  and  description  of  the  Fort. — Indian  lodges. — Migratory 
habits  of  mountain  and  prairie  tribes. — Scenes  at  Fort. — Drunken  Indians.— Tra- 
gical event. — Indian  funeral. — Speech  of  Etespa-huska  on  the  death  of  his 
father. 

Oct.  26th.  Raising  camp  at  daylight  we  resumed  our  way,  and  soon 
afterwards  arrived  opposite  the  "  Chimney,"  an  extraordinary  natural  curi- 
osity that  had  continued  in  view  and  excited  our  admiration  for  some  four 
days  past. 

This  singular  formation  surmounts  a  conical  eminence  which  rises,  isola- 
ted and  lonely,  in  the  open  prairie,  reaching  a  height  of  three  hundred  feet. 
It  is  composed  of  terrene  limestone  and  marl,  quadrangularly  shaped,  like 
the  spire  of  some  church,  six  feet  by  ten  at  its  base,  with  an  altitude  of 
more  than  two  hundred  feet, — making,  together  with  the  mound,  an  eleva- 
tion of  five  hundred  feet.*  A  grand  and  imposing  spectacle,  truly ; — a 
wonderful  display  of  the  eccentricity  of  Nature  ! 

How  came  such  an  immense  pile  so  singularly  situated  ?  What  causes 
mited  their  aid  to  throw  up  this  lone  column,  so  majestic  in  its  solitude,  to 
overlook  the  vast  and  unbroken  plains  that  surround  it  ? 

The  "  Chimney  "  is  situated  about  three  miles  to  the  left  of  the  moun- 
tain trail,  though  it  seems  no  more  than  eight  hundred  yards  distant.  Upon 
this  question  our  party  entertained  no  small  diversity  of  opinion.  Some 
of  the  less  knowing  were  confident  it  could  not  exceed  a  half  mile ;  and 
one  fellow  offered  to  bet  five  dollars  he  could  run  to  it  in  fifteen  minutes. 

*  Formerly  the  "  Chimney  "  was  much  higher  than  at  present,  and  could  be  dis- 
tinctly seen  in  a  clear  day  as  far  as  Ash  creek.  The  wind  and  the  rain  are  continu- 
ally reducing  it;  and  it  is  said  to  be  full  fifty  feet  less  than  it  was  nine  years  ago. 
Calculating  from  this  datum,  what  must  have  been  its  altitude  no  longer  remote  than  a 
couDle  of  centuries ! 


A  MONUMENT.  61 

The  banter  was  promptly  accepted,  and  the  "  greenhorn,"  doffing  his 
coat  and  hat,  started  in  full  expectation  of  winning  the  wager.  But,  in- 
stead of  fifteen,  it  took  him  forty-five  minutes  to  reach  the  spot ! 

The  day  after  passing  the  "  Chimney,"  we  entered  a  broad  defile  of 
lofty  ridges,  and  made  camp.  This  locality  is  known  as  Scott's  Bluff, 
which  is,  properly  speaking,  a  wing  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

From  Ash  creek  to  this  place,  an  almost  precipitous  wall  of  arenaceous 
rock,  limestone,  and  marl,  shuts  the  high  prairie  from  the  river  bottoms. 
As  the  traveller  proceeds,  this  wall  or  ledge  gradually  increases  in  height, 
and  recedes  from  the  river,  sometimes  to  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles, 
till  it  unites  in  a  chain  of  hills,  many  of  which  are  covered  with  sturdy 
pines,  and  others  are  mere  heaps  of  naked  sand  or  indurated  earth.  The 
ridge  then  continues  its  course  until  it  at  length  becomes  united  with  the 
lateral  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  bounds  the  "  Plains  of  Lara- 
mie "  upon  the  southeast. 

At  Scott's  Bluff  these  hills  crowd  themselves  abruptly  towards  the 
Platte,  where  they  present  a  most  romantic  and  picturesque  scenery. 

Our  camp  was  in  a  rich  opening,  or  valley,  two  miles  wide,  and  walled 
in  upon  the  right  and  left  by  perpendicular  masses  of  earth  and  rock,  that 
tower  to  a  height  of  from  three  to  eight  hundred  feet.  In  reaching  it,  the 
trail  bore  leftward  from  the  river,  about  seven  miles,  through  a  level 
prairie,  by  which  we  were  inducted  to  the  valley,  without  any  perceptible 
variation  of  its  general  surface. 

*Near  the  entrance,  upon  our  left,  the  spectacle  was  grand  and  imposing 
beyond  description.  It  seemed  as  if  Nature,  in  mere  sportiveness,  had 
thought  to  excel  the  noblest  works  of  art,  and  rear  up  a  mimic  city  as  the 
grand  metropolis  of  her  empire. 

There  stood  the  representations  of  palaces,  with  their  domes  and  balus- 
trades ;  churches,  with  their  spires  and  cupolas ;  and  streets,  with  their 
gigantic  dwellings,  stores,  work-shops,  and  ware-houses.  And  there,  also, 
were  parks,  pleasure-grounds,  and  public  squares,  all  so  admirably  defined 
by  the  agency  of  the  winds  and  rains  of  ages,  that  the  traveller  might 
readily  imagine  himself  to  have  arrived  within  the  precincts  of  the  desert- 
ed city  of  some  peopleless  country,  whose  splendor  and  magnificence  once 
more  than  vied  with  the  far-famed  Palmyra  of  the  desert,  even  in  its  best 
days. 

To  the  right  arose  a  pile  of  sand-rock  and  marl  in  pyramidal  form, 
three  hundred  feet  high,  that  occupied  its  prairie  site  detached  from  hill  or 
other  eminence. 

Near  this  stood  a  more  singular  natural  formation  than  any  pre 
viously  noticed.  It  described  a  complete  circle,  of  one  thousand  feet  in 
circumference,  and  attained  an  altitude  of  not  far  from  four  hundred  feet 
Its  sides  were  of  great  regularity,  and  represented  masses  of  solid  mason- 
work,  rising  abruptly  till  within  sixty  or  seventy  feet  of  the  summit,  where 
they  accline  in  a  blunt,  cone-like  manner,  reducing  the  periphery  to  one 
third  that  of  its  base.  At  this  point  is  reposed  a  semi-spherical  form,  reg- 
ularly jutting  with  a  gradual  swell  upon  all  sides — then  tapering  to  an  oval 
shape  till  near  the  apex,  at  which  the  whole  mass  is  surmounted  by  a  rude 
imitation  of  sculptured   flame,    pointing   upwards  to  the  sun,  as  if  this 


62  DEATH  IN  CAMP. 

strange  monument,  of  nature  had  been  erected  in  honor  of  the  great  source 
of  light  and  heat ! 

Still  further  to  the  right,  upon  the  river  bank,  is  another  immense  pile, 
exceeding  either  of  the  before  described  in  altitude.  It  is  an  oblong 
square,  and  presents  erect  lateral  walls  upon  three  sides,  leaving  upon  the 
fourth  a  gradual  acclivity  which  faces  the  river.  Its  summit  expands 
into  a  beautiful  terrace  containing  an  area  of  several  acres,  which  at  the 
proper  season  is  adorned  with  herbs,  flowers,  shrubbery,  and  grass,  like  a 
pleasure  garden  upon  some  house-top,  and  commands  a  view  of  the  whole 
country,  lending  enchantment  to  the  neighboring  scenes.  Its  base  is  about 
one  mile  long  by  twelve  hundred  yards  wide,  and  points  endwise  from  the 
river  towards  the  valley. 

Then  comes  the  continuous  wall  which  bounds  the  locality  upon  the 
right.  This  likewise  presents  a  level  summit,  varying  from  fifteen  yards 
to  a  half  mile  in  breadth,  for  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  when,  slowly  sinking 
in  its  course,  it  finally  becomes  lost  in  the  prairie. 

Covered  with  grass  and  shrubs,  it  is  the  favorite  home  of  the  mountain 
sheep,  where  she  breeds  and  rears  her  young,  secure  in  her  inaccessible 
fastnesses ;  and  ofttimes  from  its  precipitous  edge,  at  elevations  of  six  or 
eight  hundred  feet  above  the  adjacent  prairie,  will  her  head  and  mammoth 
horns  be  seen,  peering  in  wronder  upon  the  rare  traveller,  as  he  passes 
adown  the  valiey. 

The  interval  between  the  two  mural  ridges  is  of  uniform  width  for  about 
ten  miles,  and  is  watered  by  a  beautiful  stream  nearly  the  whole  distance, 
when  it  inducts  the  traveller  to  the  open  prairie, — leaving  the  immense  wall 
which  bounded  it  upon  the  leftward,  at  his  entrance,  transformed  to  high 
conical  hills,  covered  with  pines,  and  almost  lost  to  view  in  the  growing 
space ;  while  that  upon  his  right,  diminishing  in  size,  gradually  disappears 
and  unites  with  the  far-spreading  plain. 

Most  of  the  varieties  of  wild  fruits  indigenous  to  the  mountains  are 
found  in  this  vicinity,  and  also  numerous  bands  of  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  sheep, 
and  antelope,  with  the  grizzly  bear. 

In  the  summer  months  the  prospect  is  most  delightful,  and  affords  to  the 
admiring  beholder  an  Eden  of  fruits  and  flowers.  No  higher  encomium 
could  be  passed  upon  it  than  by  employing  the  homely  phrase  of  one  of 
our  xoyageurs.  In  speaking  of  the  varied  enchantments  of  its  scenery  at 
that  season,  he  said  :  "  I  could  die  here,  then, — certain  of  being  not  far  from 
heaven!" 

Before  leaving  this  romantic  spot,  feelings  of  gloom  and  melancho- 
ly usurped  those  of  pleasing  admiration,  by  the  death  of  one  of  our 
number. 

The  deceased  was  on  his  way  to  the  mountains  for  the  recovery  of  his 
health,  with  a  frame  fearfully  reduced  by  the  ravages  of  that  fell  destroyer, 
consumption.  For  several  days  past  he  had  declined  rapidly,  owing  to 
the  weather  and  the  unavoidable  exposure  incident  to  our  mode  of  travel- 
ling. To-day  the  cold  was  more  than  usually  severe,  and  an  uncomforta- 
ble rain  and  sleet  commenced  soon  after  camping.  In  an  attempt  to  pass 
from  the  waggons  to  the  fire,  he  staggered  and  fell ; — before  any  one  of 
us  could  arrive  to  his  assistance,  he  had  breathed  his  last. 


THE  WANDERER'S  GRAVE.  63 


We  buried  him  upon  the  bank  of  the  stream  that  wends  its  course 
through  the  valley.  Darkness,  with  its  sable  pall,  had  enveloped  the 
scene  as  we  covered  him  from  view,  and  left  the  winds  and  the  wolves  to 
howl  his  requiem,  until  the  voice  of  spring  shall  bid  the  wild-flowers 
grow  and  bloom  upon  his  grave. 

This  lovely  valley  had  before  this  witnessed  the  death-scene  of  one  who 
left  his  bones  to  bleach  within  its  limits.  His  name  was  Scott,  from  whom 
the  neighboring  eminences  derive  their  present  appellation. 

Attracted  by  the  enchanting  beauty  of  the  place  and  the  great  abundance 
of  game  the  vicinity  afforded,  he  wandered  hither  alone  and  made  it  his 
temporary  residence.  While  thus  enjoying  the  varied  sweets  of  solitude, 
he  became  the  prey  of  sickness  and  gasped  his  life  away; — and  none 
were  there  to  watch  over  him,  but  the  sun  by  day  and  the  stars  by  night; 
or  fan  his  fevered  brow,  save  the  kindly  breezes ;  or  bemoan  his  hapless 
fate,  other  than  the  gurgling  stream  that  sighed  its  passing  sympathy  be- 
side the  couch  of  death ! 

There  is  a  mournful  interest  and  a  touching  melancholy  associated  with 
this  simple  story,  that  must  thrill  with  emotion  the  finer  feelings  of  our 
nature.  The  incident,  which  had  so  recently  transpired,  contributed  to  en- 
hance these  gloomy  sensations  to  an  extent  I  never  before  experienced.  I 
felt — I  cannot  tell  how.  I  felt  like  giving  vent  to  my  feelings  in  verse. — 
Yet,  I  cannot  write  poetry.  I  made  the  attempt,  however,  and  here  is  the 
result  before  the  reader  : 

THE  WANDERER'S  GRAVE. 

Away  from  friends,  away  from  home, 

And  all  the  heart  holds  dear, 
A  weary  wand'rer  laid  him  down, — 

Nor  kindly  aid  was  near. — 

And  sickness  prey'd  upon  his  frame 

And  told  its  tale  of  woe, 
While  sorrow  mark'd  his  pallid  cheeks 

And  sank  his  spirit  low. 

Nor  waiting  friends  stood  round  his  couch 

A  healing  to  impart, — 
Nor  human  voice  spoke  sympathy, 

To  sooth  his  aching  heart. 

The  stars  of  night  his  watchers  were, — 

His  fan  the  rude  winds'  breath, 
And  while  they  sigh'd  their  hollow  moans, 

He  closed  his  eyes  in  death. 

Upon  the  prairie's  vast  expanse 

This  weary  wand'rer  lay  ; 
And  far  from  friends,  and  far  from  home, 

He  breath 'd  his  life  away  ! 
G* 


64  HORSE  CREEK.— GOLD. 


A  lovely  valley  marks  the  spot 

That  claims  his  lowly  bed ; 
But  o'er  the  wand'rer's  hapless  fate 

No  friendly  tear  was  shed. 

No  willing  grave  received  the  corse 

Of  this  poor  lonely  one ; — 
His  bones,  alas,  were  left  to  bleach 

And  moulder  'neath  the  sun  ! 

The  night-wolf  howl'd  his  requiem, — 

The  rude  winds  danced  his  dirge ;  ; 

And  e'er  anon,  in  mournful  chime, 
Sigh'd  forth  the  mellow  surge ! 

The  Spring  shall  teach  the  rising  grass 

To  twine  for  him  a  tomb  ; 
And,  o'er  the  spot  where  he  doth  lie, 

Shall  bid  the  wild  flowers  bloom. 

But,  far  from  friends,  and  far  from  home, 

Ah,  dismal  thought,  to  die ! 
Oh,  let  me  'mid  my  friends  expire, 

And  with  my  fathers  lie. 

Oct.  2*7111.  The  day  being  clear  and  pleasant,  we  travelled  rapidly,  and 
in  the  course  of  the  afternoon  reached  Horse  creek.  This  stream  is  a 
large  affluent  of  the  Platte,  heading  in  the  Black  Hills,  and,  tracing  its  way 
in  a  northeasterly  direction,  through  a  timberless  country,  (in  many  places 
mere  barren  wastes,)  makes  its  debouchment  nearly  fifteen  miles  above 
Scott's  Bluff. 

The  region  adjacent  to  its  head  is  represented  as  being  rich  in  minerals, 
among  which  is  gold  ;  and  from  my  limited  information  respecting  its  geo- 
logical character,  I  am  inclined  to  accredit  the  rumor.  The  story  runs 
thus : 

Six  or  eight  years  since,  Du  Shay,  an  old  French  hunter,  while  ranging 
in  the  parts  above  alluded  to,  on  crossing  one  of  the  two  principal  forks 
that  unite  to  form  the  main  stream,  observed  a  singular  looking  something 
in  the  creek  bed,  which  he  picked  up.  Tt  was  apparently  a  fragment  of 
rock,  very  heavy,  and  contained  numerous  yellow  specks. 

Having  deposited  it  in  his  bullet-pouch  for  preservation,  subsequently,  in 
approaching  a  band  of  buffalo,  its  weight  became  so  annoying  he  thought- 
lessly threw  it  away.  The  year  following  he  visited  Santa  Fe,  at  which 
place  his  pouch  was  accidentally  emptied,  and,  among  its  contents,  several 
bright  particles,  that  had  become  parted  from  the  rock,  attracted  the  atten. 
tion  of  the  Mexicans.  These  were  carefully  gathered  up,  and,  upon  due 
examination,  proved  to  be  virgin  gold. 

The  old  man,  on  his  return,  searched  diligently  for  the  spot  that  afford- 
ed the  treasure  he  had  so  foolishly  thrown  away, — but  (not  being  intellect- 


PRAIRIE  TRAVEL.  65 


ually  one  of  the  brightest  gems  of  nature's  casket,  and  feeble  and  childish 
withal)  he  was  unable  to  tind  it,  or  even  to  decide  upon  which  of  the  two 
streams  it  belonged. 

Upon  one  of  the  affluents  of  Horse  creek,  thirty  or  forty  miles  south  of 
the  Platte,  is  a  beautiful  valley,  shut  in  by  two  ridges  of  precipitous  hills, 
known  as  Goche's  hole. 

This  locality,  in  wildness  and  picturesque  beauty,  claims  affinity  to  the 
neigborhood  of  Scott's  Bluff.  Its  area  is  broad  and  of  several  miles  extent, 
— inacessible  except  at  two  or  three  points.  The  surrounding  hills  are  gen- 
erally composed  of  marl  and  earthy  limestone.  Towering  in  vertical  walls 
to  the  height  of  many  hundred  feet,  they  present  the  appearance  of  a 
strongly  fortified  place.  The  soil  is  remarkably  rich,  well  watered,  and 
timbered, — strikingly  contrasting  with  the  nude  sterility  and  desolation  of 
the  circumjacent  country. 

A  heavy  fall  of  snow  during  the  night  prevented  our  leaving  camp  until 
the  fourth  day  subsequent,  when  were  again  en  route.  Having  passed  the 
night  of  Nov.  1st  at  Morain's  Point,  the  next  day  we  arrived  at  Fort  Platte. 
This  latter  place  is  situated  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  Larra- 
mie  river,  and  is  our  point  of  present  destination. 

From  Horse  creek  to  the  Larramie  river,  the  bottoms,  in  many  places, 
afforded  dense  groves  of  heavy  timber — the  more  agreeable  as  we  had 
been  so  long  accustomed  to  open  and  woodless  prairies. 

The  geological  character  of  the  country  is  nearly  the  same  with  that 
previously  described — though  possessed  of  greater  humidity  of  soil.  The 
formations,  noticed  in  the  vicinity  of  Scott's  Bluff  and  Goche's  hole,  have 
merged  into  strata  of  limestone  of  various  shades  and  compactness,  with 
occasional  layers  of  primitive  sandstone. 

The  prairies  were  beautifully  undulating,  and  covered  with  lusty  growths 
of  dried  vegetation.  The  hills,  now  and  then,  were  ornamented  with  a  few 
scattering  pines  and  cedars,  which  stood  like  lonely  sentinels  to  watch  the 
progress  of  changing  seasons. 

As  some  of  my  readers  may  entertain  the  design  of  visiting  these  remote 
regions,  or  passing  beyond  them  to  the  more  distant  shores  of  the  Pacific, 
it  may  not  be  deemed  a  digression  for  me  to  present  a  few  hints  as  to  the 
most  advisable  mode  of  travelling  upon  this  long  and  wearisome  journey. 

A  caravan  of  waggons  should  make  only  two  camps  per  day.  Travellers 
should  adopt  the  rule  to  start  at  daylight  and  continue  until  ten  o'clock, 
A.  M., — then,  having  halted  some  six  hours,  (if  it  be  summer,  if  spring  or 
fall,  four  only,)  again  resume  their  way  till  after  sundown. 

Fifteen  miles,  upon  an  average,  are  as  far  as  an  ox  team  should  travel 
per  day, — mules  or  horses  might  keep  on  for  twenty  miles. 

Caravans  ought  always  to  lay  by  in  rainy  weather,  as  the  wet  and  irrita- 
tion consequent  upon  draught,  gall  the  neck  and  shoulders  of  their  ani 
mals  and  soon  render  them  unfit  for  service  ; — every  precaution  should  be 
taken  to  preserve  their  strength  and  soundness,  as  upon  them  rests  the  sole 
dependence  of  a  travelling  company. 

A  mounted  party  ought,  as  a  general  thing,  to  observe  the  same  rules, 


66  LODGES  OF  MOUNTAIN  INDIANS. 

and  not  think  of  averaging  over  twenty-five  miles  per  day.  They  might 
travel  later ;  but  in  such  cases,  they  should  always  proportionally  lengthen 
their  noon  halt. 

In  the  above  manner  the  entire  journey  from  Indpendence  to  the  Pacific 
may  be  performed  without  injury  to  animals,  or  the  expenses  attendant 
upon  a  relay. 

Fort  Platte,  being  next  to  Fort  Hall,  the  most  important  point  on  the 
route  to  Oregon,  calls  for  a  brief  description.  This  post  occupies  the  left  bank 
of  the  North  Fork  of  Platte  river,  three-fourths  of  a  mile  above  the  mouth 
of  Larramie,  in  lat.  42°  12'  10"  north,  long.  105°  20'  13"  west  from  Green- 
wich,* and  stands  upon  the  direct  waggon  road  to  Oregon,  via  South 
Pass. 

It  is  situated  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Oglallia  and  Brule  divisions 
of  the  Sioux  nation,  and  but  little  remote  from  the  Chyennes  and  Arapaho 
tribes.  Its  structure  is  a  fair  specimen  of  most  of  the  establishments  em- 
ployed in  the  Indian  trade.  Its  walls  are  "  adobies,"  (sun-baked  brick,) 
four  feet  thick,  by  twenty  high — enclosing  an  area  of  two  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  length,  by  two  hundred  broad.  At  the  northwest  and  south- 
west corners  are  bastions  which  command  its  approaches  in  all  directions. 

Within  the  walls  are  some  twelve  buildings  in  all,  consisting  as  follows  : 
Office,  store,  warehouse,  meat-house,  smith's  shop,  carpenter's  shop,  kitchen, 
and  five  dwellings, — so  arranged  as  to  form  a  yard  and  corel,  sufficiently 
large  for  the  accommodation  and  security  of  more  than  two  hundred  head 
of  animals.  The  number  of  men  usually  employed  about  the  establish- 
ment is  some  thirty,  whose  chief  duty  it  is  to  promote  the  interests  of  the 
trade,  and  otherwise  act  as  circumstances  require. 

The  Fort  is  located  in  a  level  plain,  fertile  and  interesting,  bounded  upon 
all  sides  by  hills,  many  of  which  present  to  view  the  nodding  forms  of 
pines  and  cedars,  that  bescatter  their  surface, — while  the  river  bottoms,  at 
various  points,  are  thickly  studded  with  proud  growths  of  cottonwood,  ash, 
willow,  and  box-elder,  thus  affording  its  needful  supplies  of  timber  and 
fuel. 

One  mile  south  of  it,  upon  the  Larramie,  is  Fort  John,  a  station  of  the 
American  Fur  Company.  Between  these  two  posts  a  strong  opposition  is 
maintained  in  regard  to  the  business  of  the  country,  little  to  the  credit  of 
either. 

At  the  time  of  our  arrival  at  the  Fort,  two  villages  of  Indians  were  en- 
camped near  by.  Their  lodges,  being  the  first  I  ever  saw,  proved  objects 
of  great  interest  to  me. 

The  lodge  of  a  mountain  Indian  consists  of  a  frame  work  of  light  poles, 
some  twenty-five  feet  long,  bound  together  at  the  small  ends,  and  raised  by 
planting  the  opposite  extremities  aslope,  at  given  distances  apart,  so  as  to 
describe  a  circle,  at  the  base,  converging  to  a  triangular  apex,  for  roof  and 
sides  ; — over  this  is  spread  a  covering  of  buffalo  robes,  so  nicely  dressed 
and  seamed,  it  readily  sheds  rain  and  excludes  the  fierce  winds  to  which 
the  country  is  subject.    A  small  aperture  at  the  top,  affords  passage  for  the 

*  Obs.  Lt,  Fremont,  in  1812. 


CHARACTER  AND  CONDITION  OF  THE  SIOUX  NATION.         67 

smoke  emitted  from  the  fire  occupyng  the  centre  ground  work.  The 
entrance  is  at  the  side,  where  a  large  piece  of  undressed  buffalo  skin  (hung 
from  the  top  and  so  placed  as  to  be  opened  or  closed,  at  pleasure,  upon  the 
ingress  or  egress  of  the  inmate)  furnishes  the  simple  substitute  for  a 
door. 

These  lodges  (some  of  them  containing  quantities  of  roofage  to  the 
amount  of  ten  or  fifteen  buffalo  skins)  are  large  and  commodious ;  and, 
even  comfortable,  in  the  severest  weather ;  the  heat  from  the  centre  fire, 
being  refracted  on  striking  the  sloping  sides,  communicates  an  agreeable 
warmth  to  every  part. 

An  Indian  lodge,  in  the  summer,  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  pleasure  of 
its  occupants, — by  raising  the  lower  extremeties  of  the  envelope  and 
securing  them  at  a  proper  elevation,  a  free  passage  of  air  is  obtained, 
which  greatly  contributes  to  increase  the  merits  of  the  delightful  shade 
afforded  by  the  superstructure. 

A  lodge  of  the  largest  size  may  easily  be  made  to  accommodate  fifteen 
persons.  The  interior  is  arranged  by  placing  the  fixtures  for  sleeping  at 
the  circumference  of  the  circle,  which  afford  seats  to  the  inmates,  and  tims 
a  sufficient  space  is  left  vacant  between  them  and  the  centre  fire. 

This  kind  of  dwelling  is  the  one  almost  universally  adopted  by  the 
mountain  and  prairie  Indians,  and  is,  perhaps,  better  suited  to  their  con- 
dition and  mode  of  life  than  any  other  that  could  be  devised. 

Dependent  solely  upon  the  chase  for  a  subsistence,  the  various  Indian 
tribes  inhabiting  the  mountains  and  countries  adjacent  can  occupy  no 
fixed  residences.  Contrary  to  the  habits  of  more  eastern  nations,  among 
whom  agriculture  commands  attention  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  they  are 
continually  necessitated  to  rove  from  place  to  place  in  pursuit  of  game. 

Give  to  one  of  them  a  bow,  arrows,  knife,  lodge,  and  running  horse,  and 
he  is  rich,  happy  and  contented.  When  the  erratic  propensities  of  the 
buffalo  (upon  which  is  his  almost  exclusive  dependence)  compel  him  to 
change  his  location,  he  has  only  to  pull  down  his  lodge,  saddle  his  horse, 
and  away. 

So  accustomed  are  they  to  this  incessant  rambling,  they  regard  it  more 
as  a  pleasure  than  an  inconvenience.  1  have  frequently  seen  hundreds  of 
families  moving  together, — presenting  to  the  unsophisticated  beholder  a 
novel  and  amusing  spectacle, — with  their  horses,  mules,  dogs,  men, 
squaws,  children,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  savage  domestic  economy, 
and  the  rude  accoutrements  of  peace  and  war,  commingled  indiscrimi- 
nately. 

The  Sioux  tribe,  to  whose  country  we  have  now  introduced  the  reader, 
is,  perhaps,  the  largest  Indian  nation  upon  the  continent  of  North  America, 
with  the  exception  of  the  ancient  Mexicans,  if  indeed  they  may  be  called 
Indians.  This  tribe  occupies  a  territory  extending  from  the  St.  Peters, 
of  the  Mississippi,  to  the  Missouri,  and  from  thence  to  the  forks  of  the 
Platte,  and  up  that  river  to  its  head- waters.  They  are  supposed  to  num- 
ber not  far  from  eighty  thousand  men,  women,  and  children,  and  are  divided 
into  many  fractional  parts,  each  bearing  its  own  name,  yet  speaking  the 
same  language  and  claiming  a  common  nationality. 

Of  these   divisions   are    the  Bruits,  Oglallas,  Yanktaus,  Piankshaws, 


68  DRUNKEN  INDIANS. 

Minecosias,  Blackfeet,  Broken-arrows,  and  Assenaboins,  with  many  oth- 
ers whose  names  have  escaped  my  recollection.  The  only  perceptible 
difference  in  language,  is,  in  the  pronuciation  of  words  like  the  following, 
meallo,  appello  and  Lacota, — those  upon  the  Mississippi,  and  some  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Missouri,  pronouncing  them  meaddo,  appeddo,  and  Da- 
cota. 

The  members  of  this  nation,  so  far  as  my  observation  extends,  are  a 
cowardly,  treacherous,  thieving  set,  taken  as  a  body — and  are  wrell  deserving 
the  appellation  of  mean  and  contemptible ;  though  there  are  some  hon- 
orable exceptions  to  the  remark. 

Any  effort  to  civilize  them  must  necessarily  prove  tedious,  if  not  alto- 
gether impracticable,  while  they  adhere  to  their  present  roving  habits  ; — 
though  three  several  missionary  stations  have  been  recently  established 
among  them,  with  slight  success ;  viz :  at  St.  Peters,  Lac  qui  Parle,  and 
Traverse  des  Sioux.  But  the  Indians  of  those  sections,  being  under  the 
more  direct  influence  of  the  U.  S.  Government,  have  begun  to  abandon 
their  former  wandering  habits,  and  betake  themselves  to  agricultural  pur- 
suits. 

The  term  Siuox,  as  applied  to  this  nation,  is  of  Franco-Canadian  ori- 
gin— being  a  corruption  of  the  word  sued,  and  means  drunk  or  drunken, — in 
allusion  to  their  excessive  fondness  for  liquor  and  predilection  to  inebri- 
acy.  The  name  by  which  they  call  themselves,  and  are  known  among 
other  tribes,  is  Lacota,  or  Cut-throats, — for  such  is  the  literal  meaning  of 
the  term ;  and  rarely,  indeed,  were  ever  a  pack  of  scoundrels  more  justly 
entitled  to  the  appellation. 

The  night  of  our  arrival  at  Fort  Platte  was  the  signal  for  a  grand  jollifi- 
cation to  all  hands,  (with  two  or  three  exceptions,)  who  soon  got  most 
gloriously  drunk,  and  such  an  illustration  of  the  beauties  of  harmony  as 
was  then  perpetrated,  would  have  rivalled  Bedlam  itself,  or  even  the  famous 
ouncil  chamber  beyond  the  Styx. 

Yelling,  screeching,  firing,  shouting,  fighting,  swearing, 'drinking,  and 
such  like  interesting  performances,  were  kept  up  without  intermission, — 
and  woe  to  the  poor  fellow  who  looked  for  repose  that  night, — he  might  as 
well  have  thought  of  sleeping  with  a  thousand  cannon  bellowing  at  his 
ears. 

The  scene  was  prolonged  till  near  sundown  the  next  day,  and  several 
made  their  egress  from  this  beastly  carousal,  minus  shirts  and  coats, — with 
swollen  eyes,  bloody  noses,  and  empty  pockets, — the  latter  circumstance 
will  be  easily  understood  upon  the  mere  mention  of  the  fact,  that  liquor,  in 
this  country,  is  sold  for  four  dollars  per  pint. 

The  day  following  was  ushered  in  by  the  enactment  of  another  scene 
of  comi co-tragical  character. 

The  Indians  encamped  in  the  vicinity,  being  extremely  solicitous  to  imi- 
tate the  example  of  their  "  illustrious  predecessors,"  soon  as  the  first  tints 
of  morning  began  to  paint  the  east,  commenced  their  demands  for  fire- 
water ;  and,  ere  the  sun  had  told  an  hour  of  his  course,  they  were  pretty 
well  advanced  in  the  state  of  "  how  came  ye  so,"  and  seemed  to  exercise 
their  musical  powers  in  wonderful  rivalry  with  their  white  brethren. 

Men,  women,  and  children  were  seen  running  from  lodge  to  lodge  with 


AN  INDIAN  FUNERAL.  69 

vessels  of  liquor,  inviting  their  friends  and  relatives  to  drink ;  while 
whooping*,  singing,  drunkenness,  and  trading  for  fresh  supplies  to  admin- 
ister to  the  demands  of  intoxication,  had  evidently  become  the  order  of 
the  day.  Soon,  individuals  were  noticed  passing  from  one  to  another,  with 
mouths  full  of  the  coveted  fire-water,  drawing  the  lips  of  favored  friends 
in  close  contact,  as  if  to  kiss,  and  ejecting  the  contents  of  their  own  into 
the  eager  mouths  of  others, — thus  affording  the  delighted  recipients  tests 
of  their  fervent  esteem  in  the  heat  and  strength  of  the  strange  draught. 

At  this  stage  of  the  game  the  American  Fur  Company,  as  is  charged, 
commenced  dealing  out  to  them,  gratuitously,  strong  drugged  liquor,  for 
the  double  purpose  of  preventing  a  sale  of  the  article  by  its  competitor  in 
in  trade,  and  of  creating  sickness,  or  inciting  contention  among  the  Indians, 
while  under  the  influence  of  sudden  intoxication, — hoping  thereby  to 
induce  the  latter  to  charge  its  ill  effects  upon  an  opposite  source,  and  thus, 
by  destroying  the  credit  of  its  rival,  monopolize  for  itself  the  whole  trade. 

It  is  hard  to  predict,  with  certainty,  what  would  have  been  the  result  of 
this  reckless  policy,  had  it  been  continued  through  the  day.  Already  its 
effects  became  apparent,  and  small  knots  of  drunken  Indians  were  seen  in 
various  directions,  quarrelling,  preparing  to  fight,  or  fighting, — while  others 
lay  stretched  upon  the  ground  in  helpless  impotency,  or  staggered  from 
place  to  place  with  all  the  revolting  attendencies  of  intoxication. 

The  dram-di,  however,  was  here  brought  to  a  temporary  close  by  an  inci- 
dent which  made  a  strange  contrast  in  its  immediate  results. 

One  of  the  head  chiefs  of  the  Brule  village,  in  riding  at  full  speed  from 
Fort  John  to  Fort  Platte,  being  a  little  too  drunk  to  navigate,  plunged 
headlong  from  his  horse  and  broke  his  neck  when  within  a  few  rods  of  his 
destination.  Then  was  a  touching  display  of  confusion  and  excitement. 
Men  and  squaws  commenced  bawling  like  children ; — the  whites  were  bad, 
very  bad,  said  they,  in  their  grief,  to  give  Susu-ceicha  the  fire-water  that 
caused  his  death.  But  the  height  of  their  censure  was  directed  against 
the  American  Fur  Company,  as  its  liquor  had  done  the  deed. 

The  body  of  the  deceased  chief  was  brought  to  the  Fort,  by  his  rela- 
tives, with  a  request  that  the  whites  should  assist  at  its  burial ;  but  they 
were  in  a  sorry  plight  for  such  a  service.  There,  however,  were  found 
sufficiently  sober  for  the  task,  and  accordingly  commenced  operations. 

A  scaffold  was  soon  erected  for  the  reception  of  the  body,  which,  in 
the  mean  time,  had  been  fitted  for  its  last  airy  tenement.  This  duty 
was  performed  by  the  relatives  of  the  deceased  in  the  fol/owing  manner : 
it  was  first  washed,  then  arrayed  in  the  habiliments  last  worn  by  Susu- 
ceicha  during  life,  and  sewed  in  several  envelopes  of  lodge-skin,  with  the 
bow,  arrows,  and  pipe  once  claiming  him  as  their  owner.  This  done,  all 
things  were  ready  for  the  proposed  burial. 

The  corpse  was  then  borne  to  its  final  resting  place,  followed  by  a 
throng  of  relatives  and  friends.  While  moving  onward  with  the  dead, 
the  train  of  mourners  filled  the  air  with  their  lamentations  and  rehearsals 
of  the  virtues  and  meritorious  deeds  of  their  late  chief. 

Arrived  at  the  scaffold,  the  corpse  was  carefully  reposed  opon  it  facing 
the  east,  while  beneath  its  head  was  placed  a  small  sack  of  meat,  tobacco 
and  vermilion,  with  a  comb,  looking-glass,  and  knife,  and  at  its  jreet,  a 
small  banner  that  had  been  carried  in  the  procession.      A   covering  of 


70     SPEfCH  OF  LONG  BOW  ON  THE  DEATH  OF  HIS  FATHER. 

scarlet  cloth  was  then  spread  over  it,  and  the  body  firmly  lashed  to  its 
place  by  long  strips  of  raw  hide.  This  done,  the  horse  of  the  chieftain 
was  produced  as  a  sacrifice  for  the  benefit  of  his  master  in  his  long 
journey  to  the  celestial  hunting  ground. 

The  above  mode  of  sepulture  is  that  commonly  practised  by  the  moun- 
tain tribes.  It  is  seldom  indeed  they  ever  dispose  of  their  dead  in  any 
other  way  than  by  placing  them  either  upon  scaffolds,  branches  of  trees, 
or  in  some  elevated  position,  not  unfrequently  covered  by  lodges,  where 
they  are  left  to  moulder  and  waste  in  the  winds  and  rain,  till  the  boner, 
falling  one  by  one  upon  the  prairie,  are  gathered  up  by  surviving  friends, 
and  finally  entombed  in  mother  earth. 

The  corpse  of  the  ill-fated  man  being  thus  ^securely  fixed  in  the  airy 
couch  assigned  it,  to  await  the  speedy  process  of  dissolution,  and  mingle 
with  its  kindred  earth,  that  its  bones  might  find  their  proper  places  be- 
neath the  prairie  sod,  the  village  once  acknowledging  him  as  its  head 
now  met  round  the  scaffold,  men.  women,  children,  and  little  ones,  to 
bewail  the  sad  fate  that  had  bereaved  them  of  their  loved  chieftain. 

First,  encircling  it  at  a  respectful  distance,  were  seated  the  old  men, 
next  the  young  men  and  warriors,  and  next  the  squaws  and  children. 
Etespa-huska,  (Long  Bow,)  eldest  son  of  the  deceased,  thereupon  com- 
menced speaking,  while  the  weeping  throng  ceased  its  tumult  to  listen  to 
his  words : 

"  Oh,  Susu-ceicha  !  thy  son  bemourns  thee,  even  as  was  wont  the 
fledgelings  of  the  war-eagle  to  cry  for  the  one  that  nourished  them, 
ere  yet  thy  swift  arrow  had  laid  him  in  dust.  Sorrow  fills  the  heart 
of  Etespa-huska ;  sadness  crushes  it  to  the  ground  and  sinks  it  beneath 
the  sod  upon  which  he  treads. 

"Thou  hast  gone,  oh  Susu-ceicha!  Death  hath  conquered  thee, 
whom  none  but  death  could  conquer  ;  and  who  shall  now  teach  thy  son 
to  be  brave  as  thou  was  brave  ;  to  be  good  as  thou  wast  good  ;  to  fight 
the  foe  of  thy  people  and  acquaint  thy  chosen  ones  with  the  war-song  of 
triumph  !  to  deck  his  lodge  with  the  scalps  of  the  slain,  and  bid  the  feet 
of  the  young  move  swiftly  in  the  dance  )  And  who  shall  teach  Etespa-hus- 
ka to  follow  the  chase  and  plunge  his  arrows  into  the  yielding  sides  of 
the  tired  bull  7  Who  shall  teach  him  to  call  for  his  prey  from  the  deer, 
the  elk,  and  the  antelope,  as  thou  hast  done,  or  win  honors  from  the 
slaughtered  bear  ] 

"  None.  Etespa-huska  has  no  teacher.  He  is  alone.  Susu-ceicha  is 
dead  ! 

"  But  thou  wilt  soon  gain  the  happy  country.  Thy  journey  is  short. 
There  wilt  thou  bestride  the  fleet  horses  that  never  tire,  and  roam  amid 
the  fruits  and  flowers,  the  sweet  waters  and  pleasure-groves  of  that  lovely 
clime  ;  for  thou  art  worthy. 

"And,  oh,  Wakantunga!  (Great  Spirit,)  do  thou  pity  Etespa-huska. 
Do  thou  teach  him  to  be  brave  and  good  like  his  father,  for  who  is  there 
to  pity  or  teach  him  now  he  is  left  alone  !" 

Then,  turning:  to  the  audience  he  continued  : 

"  Brothers  :  Strong  was  the  arm  of  Susu-ceicha,  and  fleet  was  the  arrow 
shot  from  his  bow.  Thirty  and  five  of  the  enemy  hath  he  slain  in  battle, 
whose  waving  locks  were  the  trophies  that  ofttimes  measured  the  quick 


THE  COAST  CLEAR.  71 


step  of  the  scalp-dance.  Fourscore  and  ten  were  the  medicine-dogs  he 
brought  from  the  land  of  the  foeman,  that  their  shrill  neighings  might 
greet  the  ears,  and  their  strong  backs  carry  the  people  he  loved ;  for 
brave  was  the  heart  of  Susu-ceicha ! 

"What  warrior  ever  came  to  his  lodge  and  went  hungry,  or  naked,  or 
needy  away  1  What  widow  or  orphan  of  his  people  blessed  not  their 
chief,  when  he  returned  from  the  chase  and  apportioned  to  them  their 
wonted  dues  from  the  choice  spoils  of  the  buffalo  ?  for  generous  was  the 
soul  of  Susu-ceicha. 

"Brothers;  Susu-ceicha  is  dead.  No  more  shall  his  voice  be  heard 
in  your  councils,  or  his  courage  lead  you  to  victory,  or  his  generosity 
rejoice  the  hearts  of  the  needy,  the  widow,  and  the  orphan.  Etespa- 
huska  laments  a  father  and  a  teacher.  The  Burnt-thighs*  a  mighty 
chieftain  ;  and  the  nation  its  bravest  warrior  !  We  all  mourn  him  ;  sor- 
row fills  the  hearts,  and  tears  wash  the  cheeks  of  his  people.  It  is  good 
that  we  bemourn  him,  and  mingle  with  the  winds  the  voices  of  our  lam- 
entation, for  who  shall  now  stand  in  the  place  of  Susu-ceicha. 

"  Brothers  :  Let  us  stamp  his  memory  upon  our  hearts  and  imitate  his 
virtues,  that  our  acts  may  rear  to  him  a  living  monument,  which  may 
endure  till  time  itself  shall  die  !" 

No  sooner  had  the  orator  ceased,  than  a  tremendous  howl  of  grief  burst 
from  the  whole  assemblage,  men,  women,  and  children,  which  was  re- 
newed in  quick  succession  for  several  hours,  when  finally  the  bewailing 
multitude  retired  to  their  lodges. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Coast  clear,  and  Trade  opened. — More  visitors. — Smoking  out  the  natives. — Inci- 
dent illustrative  of  Indian  character. — Expeditions  for  trade. — Black  Hills. — Raw- 
hide.— An  Indian  and  a  buffalo  chase. — Deep  snow,  extreme  cold,  and  painful 
journey. — L'eau-qui-court.— Remarks. — Lost. — White  river ;  its  valley,  fruits,  and 
game. — Building  site. — The  Devil's  Tea-pot. — Troubles  with  Indians. — Theft  and 
its  punishment. — Indian  soldiers. — Christmas  extras. — Outrageous  conduct. — Ras- 
cality of  traders.— "  That  Old  Serpent."— Indian  superstition,  religious  tenets 
and  practices.— Notions  upon  general  morality. 

The  events  of  the  day  had  for  the  present  put  an  effectual  stop  to  dissi- 
pation among  the  Indians,  and  not  long  afterwards  they  began  to  pull  down 
their  lodges  and  remove  to  the  neghborhood  of  buffalo,  for  the  purpose  of 
selecting  winter-quarters. 

The  disgusting  scenes  connected  with  our  arrival  at  the  Fort  had  pretty 
much  ceased  on  the  evening  of  the  second  day,  and  everything,  with  a  few 
exceptions,  began  to  assume  its  wonted  aspect. 

*  This  is  the  interpretation  of  the  Indian  name  which  the  French  have  supplied 
by  the  word  Brule.  - 


72  EXPEDITION  TO  WHITE  RIVER. 

The  winter  trade  was  now  considered  fully  opened.  Parties  were  sent 
with  goods  from  the  Fort  to  different  villages,  for  the  purpose  of  barter, 
and  affairs  began  lo  show  a  business-like  appearance. 

Some  two  weeks  subsequently,  a  band  of  Brules  arrived  in  the  vicinity. 
They  had  come  for  a  drunken  spree,  and  soon  opened  a  brisk  trade  in 
liquor. 

Our  visitors  crowded  the  Fort  houses  in  quest  of  articles  of  plunder, 
and  became  an  incessant  source  of  annoyance  to  the  engages.  One  room, 
in  particular,  was  thronged  almost  to  the  exclusion  of  its  regular  occu- 
pants. The  latter,  losing  all  patience,  at  length  hit  upon  a  plan  to  rid 
themselves  of  the  intruders. 

After  closely  covering  the  chimney  funnel,  by  aid  of  some  half  rotten 
chips  a  smoke  was  raised ;  the  doors  and  windows  being  closed  to  prevent  its 
egress.  In  an  instant  the  apartment  became  filled  to  suffocation, — quite 
too  much  so  for  the  endurance  of  the  wondering  savages,  who  gladly  with- 
drew to  gain  the  pure  air  of  the  exterior.  On  being  told  it  was  the  Long- 
knife's  medicine,*  they  replied  : 

"Ugh!  WakeasutiellohaMena-huskatour!"  (Ugh!  The  Long-knife's 
medicine  is  strong !) 

During  their  stay  at  the  Fort,  an  incident  occurred  which  will  serve  to 
illustrate  a  singular  trait  in  the  character  of  these  Indians. 

A  brave,  named  Bello-tunga,  (Big  Eagle,)  received  a  blow  over  the  head 
from  a  half  crazed  drunken  trader,  which  came  very  near  terminating  in 
serious  consequences.  What  would  have  been  the  result,  it  is  hard  to  tell, 
had  not  the  whites  promptly  interfered,  and,  with  much  effort,  succeeded  in 
pacifying  the  enraged  savage  by  presenting  him  a  horse. 

At  first  he  would  admit  of  no  compromise  short  of  the  offender's  blood — 
he  had  been  struck  by  the  pale-face,  and  blood  must  atone  for  the  aggres- 
sion,— unless  that  should  wipe  out  the  disgrace,  he  could  never  again  lilt 
up  his  head  among  his  people, — they  would  call  him  a  coward,  and  say  the 
white  man  struck  Bello-tunga  and  he  dared  not  to  resent  it. 

The  services  of  his  father,  hereupon,  were  secured  in  behalf  of  the 
offending  party,  which,  after  great  ado,  finally  effected  an  adjustment  of 
the  difficulty. 

An  Indian  considers  it  the  greatest  indignity  to  receive  a  blow  from  any 
one,  even  from  his  own  brother  ; — and,  unless  the  affair  is  settled  by  the 
bestowment  of  a  trespass  offering  on  the  part  of  the  aggressor,  he  is  almost 
sure  to  seek  revenge,  either  through  blood  or  the  destruction  of  property. 
This  is  a  more  especial  characteristic  of  the  Sioux  than  of  any  other  nation. 
In  fact,  the  Snakes,  Crows,  Arapahos,  Chyennes,  and  most  other  tribes  are 
far  less  nice  in  its  observance, — though  all  regard  the  like  an  insult  that 
justly  calls  for  revenge. 

Soon  after,  an  expedition  was  detached  to  Fort  Lancaster,  on  the  South 
Fork  Platte,  and  another  to  White  river,  an  affluent  of  the  Missouri,  some 

*  This  word,  in  Indian  signification,  means  any  person  or  thing  possessed  of  extra- 
ordinary or  supernatural  powers,  as  well  as  any  act  for  conciliating  the  favor  and 
obtaining  the  assistance  of  the  Great  Spirit.  That  medicine  is  the  strongest  which  is 
the  most  efficient  for  its  intended  purposes. 


OfTHC 

UNIVERSITY 

CA    °F  or*^j^    A  PR0BLEM  IN  MORALITY.  73 


Sb 


eighty  miles  northwest  of  the  main  trading  post.     The  latter  party  included 
myself  with  its  number. 

Our  purpose  was  to  build  houses  in  the  vicinity  of  White  river,  and  thus 
secure  the  trade  of  several  villages  of  Brules  that  had  selected  their  winter 
quarters  in  the  neighborhood,  and  were  anxiously  awaiting  our  arrival. 

On  the  last  of  November  we  were  under  way  with  two  carts  freighted 
with  goods  and  liquor,  accompanied  by  only  six  whites,  one  negro,  and  an 
Indian. 

Crossing  the  Platte  opposite  the  Fort,  we  continued  our  course,  west 
by  north,  over  a  broken  and  tumulous  prairie,  occasionally  diversified  by 
thick  clusters  of  pines  and  furrowed  by  deep  ravines,  and  abounding  in 
diminutive  valleys,  whose  tall,  withered  grass  gave  evidence  of  the  rich 
soil  producing  it.  To  our  left  the  high,  frowning  summits  of  the  Black 
Hills  began  to  show  themselves  in  the  long  distance,  like  dark  clouds,  and 
planted  their  dense  pine  forests  upon  the  broken  ridges  whose  irregular 
courses  invaded  the  cheerless  prairie  far  eastward. 

A  ride  of  twenty  miles  brought  us  to  Rawhide,  where  we  passed  the 
following  night  and  day. 

This  creek  traces  its  course  over  a  broad  sandy  bed,  through  a  wide  valley 
of  rich  clayey  loam,  slightly  timbered  and  luxuriant  in  grasses.  Towards 
its  head,  it  is  shut  in  upon  both  sides  by  high  pine  hills ;  but,  in  passing  on, 
these  mural  confines  are  exchanged  for  the  prairies,  and  the  creek  finally 
debouches  into  the  Platte. 

An  abundance  of  prelee  and  rushes  afforded  fine  pasturage  to  our  animals, 
and  a  kindly  grove  of  dry  cottonwood  gave  us  requisite  fuel  for  camp-fire. 

Before  leaving,  we  were  joined  by  another  Indian  mounted  upon  a  dark 
bay  horse,  the  noblest  animal  of  its  kind  I  remember  to  have  seen  among 
the  mountain  tribes.  It  had  been  stolen  from  the  Snakes  during  the  past 
summer,  as  its  present  owner  informed  us,  and  he  seemed  not  a  little  proud 
of  the  admiration  we  bestowed  upon  it. 

The  new  comer  proved  Arketcheta-waka,  (Medicine  Soldier,)  a  brother 
of  Bello-tunga,  the  brave  referred  to  on  a  former  occasion.  Seating  him- 
self by  the  fire,  he  looked  dejected  and  melancholy,  and  his  face  bore  in- 
dubitable evidence  of  a  personal  encounter  with  some  one. 

On  enquiring  the  cause  of  this,  we  learned  that  he  had  left  his  father's 
lodge  by  reason  of  a  quarrel  he  had  had  with  his  eldest  brother, — the  latter 
having  struck  him  with  a  fire-brand  and  burnt  his  body  in  several  places 
during  a  drunken  spree, — he  was  now  on  his  way  to  White  river,  there  to 
await  the  suitable  time  for  revenge,  when  he  should  kill  his  brother. 

We  told  him  this  would  not  be  right ; — it  was  liquor  that  had  done  him 
the  wrong,  and  not  his  brother ; — liquor  was  bad  ! 

He  seemed  to  acknowledge  the  truth  of  our  suggestions,  and  asked  "  why 
the  pale-faces  brought  the  fire-water  to  do  the  red  man  so  much  harm  ?" 
Our  trader  replied,  "  The  whites  want  robes,  and  can  get  them  for  liquor 
when  nothing  else  will  do  it." 

The  answer  evidently  perplexed  him,  while  he  sat  gazing  silently  into 
the  fire,  with  his  arms  akimbo  upon  his  knees,  and  palms  supporting  his 
chin,  as  if  striving  to  work  out  to  his  own  satisfaction  this  strange  problem 
in  morality . 


74  PAINFUL  ^RAVKLLLNG. 

The  third  day  we  resumed  our  course,  and,  after  a  drive  of  six  or  eigh 
miles,  came  upon  a  large  band  of  buflalo.  Here,  at  our  request,  the  Med 
icine  Soldier  doffed  his  robe,  slung  his  arrow-case  over  his  naked  shoulders, 
mounted  his  horse  bow  in  hand,  and  started  for  the  chase. 

At  first  he  rode  slowly,  as  if  reserving  the  speed  of  his  charger  till  the 
proper  time.  The  buffalo  permitted  him  to  approach  within  a  few  hundred 
yards  before  they  commenced  flight.     Then  was  a  magnificent  spectacle. 

The  affrighted  beasts  flew  over  the  ground  with  all  the  speed  that  extreme 
terror  lent  to  their  straightened  nerves,  and  plied  their  nimble  feet  with  a 
velocity  almost  incredible — but  they  were  no  match  for  the  noble  steed  the 
Indian  bestrode.  He  was  among  them  in  a  trice,  and  horse,  Indian,  and 
buffalo  were  lost  in  identity,  as  they  swept  over  a  snow-clad  prairie,  in 
one  thick,  black  mass,  like  the  career  of  a  fierce  tornado,  tossing  the  loose 
drifts  upwards  in  small  particles,  that,  in  their  descent,  pictured  white  clouds 
falling  to  the  earth,  ever  and  anon  enshrouding  the  whole  band  from  view. 

Now  their  course  is  turned  and  makes  directly  towards  us.  They  pass, 
all  foaming  with  sweat — with  lolling  tongues  and  panting  breath — but 
they  still  seem  loath  to  abate  from  the  energy  of  their  wild  terror. 

Soon  the  Indian  and  his  gallant  steed  part  from  them.  He  has  selected 
the  choicest  of  the  band  and  pursues  her  singly.  Side  by  side  both  cow 
and  horse  keep  even  pace,  while  the  ready  archer  pours  in  his  arrows, — 
some  of  them,  forcing  their  entire  way  through  the  bleeding  beast,  fall 
loosely  to  the  ground  upon  the  opposite  side. 

At  length,  spent  by  the  toilsome  flight,  exhausted  by  loss  of  blood,  and 
pierced  through  her  vitals  by  the  practised  marksman  that  follows  her,  she 
halts  for  fight. 

Now,  she  plunges  with  mad  fury  at  the  horse, — the  wrell-trained  steed 
clears  the  force  of  her  charge  at  a  bound.  Again,  she  halts, — the  blood 
spouts  from  her  nostrils  and  mouth — she  staggers.  Again,  she  musters  her 
expiring  energies  for  one  more  desperate  onset  at  her  enemy,  as  if  deter- 
mined, if  die  she  must,  not  to  die  unavenged.  Her  charge  proves  futile  as 
the  former.  A  death-sickness  comes  over  her.  Her  life  is  fast  ebbing  from 
within  her.  She  reels, — she  totters — she  falls, — and  breathes  her  life 
away  upon  the  blood-dyed  snow. 

A  few  moments'  delay  put  us  in  possession  of  an  ample  supply  of  fresh 
meat, — the  Indian  reserving  the  robe  only  as  his  share.  The  cow  proved 
a  most  excellent  selection,  and  did  honor  to  the  judgment  of  the  hunter. 

As  we  travelled  on,  the  snow,  which  scarcely  an  hour  since  had  first 
attracted  our  attention,  became  deeper  and  deeper,  and  our  progress  more 
tedious  and  difficult. 

From  bare  ground  and  comparatively  moderate  climate,  we  were  fully 
inducted  to  the  region  of  snow,  ice,  and  winter.  The  prairie  was  high  and 
undulating.  To  our  left  an  immense  wall  of  secondary  rock  surmounted 
a  ridge  of  naked  hills,  that  described  in  its  course  the  curve  of  a  rainbow, 
enclosing  upon  three  sides  a  large  valley  facing  the  east, — thence,  stretch- 
ing westward  and  raising  higher  and  higher,  hastened  to  mingle  its  heads 
among  the  cloud-capped  summits  and  snows  of  the  neighboring  moun- 
tains. 

From  a  light  coating  of  loose  snow  our  course  soon  became  obstructed 


'..-... ':.:v:!^:' 


L'EAU-QUI-COURT.— REMARKS.  75 

by  still  deepening  layers,  covered  with  a  thick  crust,  scarcely  strong  enough 
to  bear  our  weight,  but  quite  sufficient  to  wrench  and  jar  us  at  every  step, 
and  make  our  advance  threefold  tiresome. 

The  cold  was  so  intense,  we  were  forced  to  walk  to  keep  from  freezing. 
Our  difficulties  thickened  the  farther  we  progressed.  Night  closed  in  upon 
us,  and  we  could  no  longer  distinguish  our  course.  Yet  we  kept  on,  in 
hopes  of  reaching  some  creek  or  spring  where  we  might  await  the  coming 
day. 

Slowly,  onward, — plunge,  plunge,  at  every  step  ; — now  prostrate  at  full 
length  upon  the  hard  crust,  and  then  again  staggering  in  resistless  mimicry 
of  drunken  men. 

The  chill  winds  sweeping  over  the  dreary  expanse  pierc'ed  us  through  at 
each  whiff,  and  seemed  to  penetrate  every  nerve,  and  joint,  and  muscle,  as 
if  to  transform  our  hearts'  blood  into  icicles.  But  still  it  was  plunge,  plunge 
along  ;  onward,  plunge,  fall ;  but  yet  onward!  There  is  no  stopping  place 
here, — 'tis  push  on  or  die  ! 

Thus,  travelling  for  three  or  four  hours,  not  knowing  whither,  we  came 
finally  to  the  leeward  of  a  high  hill.  The  agreeable  change  produced  by 
the  absence  of  wTind,  called  forth  a  hearty  response.  "  Camp,  ho,"  was 
echoed  upon  all  sides.  But  here  was  no  water  for  ourselves  or  our  animals. 
We  must  yet  go  on.  Still  we  lingered — loath  to  leave  the  favored  spot. 
The  Indian,  who  had  been  absent  for  a  brief  space,  now  came  up,  shout- 
ing: 

"  Mine,  washtasta  !"    (Water,  very  good  !) 

"  Tarkoo  mine  ?"  asked  the  trader.  (What  water  ?) 

"  Mine-loosa.     Tunga  warkpollo."    (Running-water.     A  large  creek.) 

It  proved  L'eau-qui-court,  the  stream  upon  which  we  had  intended  to  pass 
the  night. 

Pushing  on,  a  few  moments  brought  us  to  its  banks,  in  a  deep  valley 
covered  with  snow.  A  fire  was  then  promptly  built  from  a  small  quantity 
of  wood  we  had  the  precaution  to  take  with  us  from  Rawhide,  and  all 
hands  were  soon  as  comfortably  conditioned  as  circumstances  would  adnrt. 

A  hearty  supper  served  to  appease  the  appetites  so  keenly  sharpened  by 
a  toilsome  journey  of  thirty  miles,  occupying  from  sunrise  till  ten  o'clock 
at  night.  This  over,  each  one  cleared  for  himself  a  place  upon  the  frozen 
ground,  and,  spreading  down  his  bed,  quickly  forgot  his  cares  and  sufferings 
in  the  welcome  embrace  of  sleep. 

L'eau-qui-court,  or  Running- w^ater,  heads  in  a  small  lake  under  the  base 
of  the  first  range  of  Black  Hills,  and,  following  an  easternly  course,  empties 
into  the  Missouri,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  or  two  hundred  miles  above 
Council  Bluff.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  rapidity  of  its  current,  which 
rolls  over  a  pebbly  bed  with  great  velocity. 

At  this  place  it  is  narrow  and  deep,  with  steep  banks,  and  not  a  stick  of 
timber  is  to  be  found  on  it,  above  or  below,  for  twenty  miles.  At  the  lake 
where  it  heads,  there  is  an  abundance  of  timber ;  large  groves  of  cotton- 
wood  are  also  found  at  some  distance  below  our  present  camp. 

The  intermediate  country,  from  Rawhide,  is  a  cold  and  cheerless  expanse 
almost  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  From  the  commencement  of  fall  to  the 
very  close   of  spring,  it  is  subject  to  frost  and  snow ; — for  what  cause. 

7* 


76  WHITE  RIVER  SCENERY. 

it  is  hard  to  conjecture.  Its  surface,  though  quite  elevated,  is  not 
sufficiently  so  to  make  such  marked  difference  in  climate  between  it  and 
adjoining  sections. 

The  next  day  proved  cloudy ;  we,  however,  resumed  our  course  which 
led  over  a  rough,  tumulous  country,  covered  with  snow  and  darkened  by 
occasional  clusters  of  pines. 

Early  in  the  morning  our  Indians  left  us  and  took  a  nearer  route  to  the 
village.  Soon  after  we  became  bewildered  in  the  obscurity  of  the  atmos- 
phere, and  travelled  till  night  unconscious  whether  right  or  wrong. 
Finally,  coming  to  a  deep  ravine  that  obstructed  further  progress,  we  turned 
to  a  neighboring  grove  of  pines,  at  the  point  of  an  eminence,  and  made 
camp.  It  was  a  bleak  airy  place,  but  by  aid  of  a  huge  fire  of  dry  pine 
wre  were  quite  comfortable,  despite  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  during  the  night. 

With  the  morning  our  perplexities  were  renewed.  Directly  in  front  lay 
a  broad  and  impassable  ravine,  beyond  which  a  high  mountain  range  arose 
to  view.  Should  we  go  up  or  down  ?  After  much  debate  we  decided 
upon  the  latter,  and,  bearing  northward  during  the  day,  struck  the  head 
of  a  stream  which  subsequently  proved  White  river. 

This  stream  traces  its  way  through  a  broad  valley,  enclosed  upon  either 
side  by  high  pine  hills.  Its  banks  are  studded  with  thick  groves  of  cotton- 
wood,  elm,  ash,  box-elder,  and.  willow, — with  nearly  all  the  varieties  of 
fruit-bearing  shrubs  and  trees  indigenous  to  the  mountains.  In  the  item 
of  plums  and  cherries,  it  gave  evidence  of  exuberant  fecundity.  The 
bushes,  in  many  instances,  yet  bore  the  dried  relics  of  their  burthen, 
as  if  to  tempt  the  beholder's  taste, — while  the  tall  grass  and  rosebuds,* 
every  where  attested  the  summer-verdure  and  beauty  of  the  valley  in 
which  they  grew. 

The  snow  that  had  hitherto  impeded  our  progress,  now  gradually  became 
less  as  we  advanced  down  the  valley,  and  soon  gave  place  to  bare  ground. 
Game  appeared  in  great  numbers,  attracted  from  the  adjoining  hills  to  pass 
the  winter  in  this  inviting  locality. 

A  journey  of  two  days  brought  us  to  the  site  selected  for  houses,  and, 
consequently  to  a  halt,  for  the  present. 

The  place  was  surrounded  by  wild  and  romantic  scenery.  Directly  in 
front,  upon  the  opposite  side  ol  the  creek,  arose  a  perpendicular  wall  of 
marl  and  half  formed  sandstone,  towering,  stratum  above  stratum,  to  a 
height  of  three  or  four  hundred  feet,  and  overlooking  the  valley  above  and 
below, — while  further  on,  a  steep  hill-side,  covered  with  tall,  straight,  and 
almost  branchless  pines,  burst  upon  the  view. 

Rearward  a  gradual  acclivity  led  to  a  high  plateau,  some  two  miles 
broad,  coated  with  long,  tall  grass,  when  a  ridge  of  abrupt  pine  hills  in- 
troduced the  more  distant  mountains,  with  their  rugged  sides  and  frowning 
summits, — and,  higher  up,  an   immense   pile   of   earthy  limestone,  sur- 

*  Rosebuds  are  found  in  great  quantities  in  many  places,  throughout  the  mountains, 
during  the  winter,  and  attain  a  large  size.  They  are  highly  esteemed  by  many  as 
an  article  of  food,  and  have  not  unfrequently  bopn  the  means  of  preserving  life  in  eases 
*>!*  extreme  hunger  and  lack  of  other  eatables. 


A  THIEF  PUNISHED.  77 

mounting  a  wing  of  hills  as  it  approached  the  river,  presented  a  medley  of 
curious  and  fantastic  shapes, — objects  alike  of  amusement  and  wonder. 

One  of  the  latter,  denominated  the  "  Devil's  Tea-pot,"  exhibited  exter- 
nally an  almost  perfect  facsimile  of  that  kind  of  vessel.  It  was  of  gigantic 
proportions, — being  one  hundred  feet  high,  and,  occupying  a  conspicuous 
position,  may  be  seen  for  a  distance  of  many  miles. 

The  Indians  from  a  near  village,  immediately  upon  our  arrival,  came 
flocking  around  for  the  threefold  purpose  of  begging,  trading  and  stealing ; 
and,  from  this  forward,  wTe  rarely  experienced  an  interval  free  from  their 
anoyance. 

Prompt  arrangements  were  here  commenced  for  building  a  store  room 
and  trading  house ; — but  meanwhile,  we  were  forced  to  keep  strict  guard 
both  night  and  day. 

Two  braves  were  secured  to  "  act  soldier,"  and  assist  in  keeping  the 
thieving  propensities  of  their  people  in  check.  Yet,  notwithstanding  the 
united  vigilance  of  all  hands,  the  latter  would  frequently  perpetrate  their 
petit  larcenies  under  our  very  eyes,  without  being  detected  in  the  act, — 
so  adroit  were  they  at  the  business.  An  instance  of  this  kind  happening  to 
myself  is  perhaps  worth  relating. 

Previously  to  the  erection  of  houses,  we  were  necessitated  to  sleep  in  the 
open  air.  Wearied  by  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  one  night  I  spread  down 
my  couch  by  the  camp-fire,  with  the  intention  of  retiring.  The  weather 
being  very  cold,  I  had  scarcely  turned  to  warm  myself,  when  a  backward 
glance  revealed  the  sudden  disappearance  of  my  sleeping  appendages — 
robes  blankets  and  all ! 

Informing  the  trader  of  my  mishap,  and  catching  a  glimpse  of  the  thief 
as  he  dodged  past  a  knot  of  Indians  at  the  further  extremity  of  the  camp,  gun 
in  hand,  I  started  after  the  nimble  lark ;  but  the  thick  bushes  and  darkness 
soon  shut  him  from  view  and  left  me  in  fruitless  pursuit. 

At  length,  relinquishing  the  hope  of  ever  regaining  the  stolen  articles, 
and  vexed  at  the  impious  savage,  who,  instead  of  obeying  the  Scripture  in- 
junction of  " take  up  thy  bed  and  walk"  had  snatched  my  bed  and  run !  I 
returned  to  camp.  Here  I  was  shown  a  robe,  by  the  trader,  that  had  been 
brought  in  scarcely  a  minute  before  and  offered  in  barter  for  liquor ; — it 
was  one  of  the  two  I  had  lost. 

The  bearer  was  now  promply  charged  as  being  -accessory  to  the  theft. 
This  he  stoutly  denied,  alleging  that  the  robe  had  been  given  him  by  an- 
other Indian  for  the  purpose  he  had  offered  it. 

Upon  this  the  affair  was  referred  to  our  soldiers,  who,  after  much  parley- 
ing and  no  little  threatening,  succeeded  in  causing  him  to  return  the  mis- 
sing articles.  The  fellow  then  demanded  of  me  a  cup  of  liquor  as  pay  for 
bringing  them  back.  Mustering  to  my  aid  a  few  words  of  Sioux,  I  replied : 
"  Mea  warche  yau  wechacha  ceicha,  opata-ne  ha  warktash-ne  coga ! — I 
neither  like  bad  men,  nor  will  I  pay  for  doing  bad." 

Marto-nazher,  (Standing  Bear,)  one  of  our  soldiers,  on  hearing  my  an- 
swer, arose  and  addressed  the  crowd  in  an  earnest  and  impressive  manner. 
He  was  grieved  on  account  of  the  many  depredations  continually  commit- 
ted by  his  people  upon  the  property  of  the  whites.  It  is  wrong — very 
wrong,  said  he,  to  conduct  in  this  manner; — if  such  wickedness  is  allow- 


78  INDIAN  SOLDIERS. 

ed,  the  whites  will  abandon  the  country.  Whites  do  not  steal  from  us. — 
Something  must  be  done — an  example  must  be  had — the  perpetrators 
of  these  outrages  must  be  punished. 

"  You,  Schena-sarpah,"  he  continued,  throwing  his  piercing  glance  full 
upon  the  c'hop-fallen  culprit,  who  hung  his  head  for  shame  at  being  caught 
in  a  manner  so  little  to  his  credit,  "  Aye,  you  Scena-sarpah  do  carry  a 
bow  and  arrows  ;  you  call  yourself  a  brave  ;  and  yet  you  steal  from  our 
friends,  the  pale-faces  ! 

"  Do  brave  men  steal  from  their  friends  ?  No !  Schena-sarpah  should 
alone  steal  from  his  enemies,  if  he  be  a  brave  man  and  a  soldier. 

"  Who  are  they  that  steal  from  their  friends  ?  Squaws  and  children,  as 
Schena-sarpah  well  knows.  Then  he  is  no  better  than  they  !  Why 
should  he  carry  a  bow  ?  Why  go  to  war,  or  follow  the  chase  ?  Squaws 
and  children  do  neither.  None  but  brave  men  go  to  war — none  but  they 
should  follow  the  chase. 

"  Schena-sarpa  needs  no  bow.  Let  him  go  to  his  lodge.  There  let  him 
make  robes  and  moccasins  for  braves,  and  take  care  of  children  with 
squaws, — for  such  should  be  his  occupation,  and  only  such  should  be  his 
companions  !" 

So  saying,  he  approached  the  unresisting  thief,  and,  taking  from  him  his 
bow,  arrows,  and  panther-skin  quiver,  resumed  his  seat.  Then,  breaking 
the  arrows  and  shooting  them  away,  one  by  one,  among  the  trees,  he  snap- 
ped the  bow  across  his  knee  and  threw  it  into  the  fire.  The  bright  flame 
from  the  burning  bow  had  barely  died  away,  when  the  quiver  was  consign- 
ed to  the  same  fate.  As  the  last  fragments  of  the  effeminate's  weapons 
mouldered  to  ashes,  a  smile  of  satisfaction  played  upon  the  countenance  of 
the  Standing  Bear,  at  the  thought  of  having  avenged  the  wrongs  of  the 
white  man. 

And,  truly,  this  was  an  infliction  of  summary  punishment.  The  amount 
of  property  destroyed  exceeded  the  value  of  a  horse,  and,  in  the  estimation 
of  an  Indian,  constitutes  a  man's  chief  wealth.  The  offender  was  thus 
not  only  left  disarmed  by  the  operation,  but  made  poor,  and  reduced  to  a 
level  with  the  squaws  and  children  to  whom  he  was  set  apart.  He  be- 
moaned his  loss  most  piteously,  and  started  for  his  lodge,  bellowing  like  a 
motherless  calf. 

Another  instance  of  theft  occurred  soon  after,  almost  as  remarkable.  A 
robe  was  stolen  from  off  one  of  our  party,  while  he  was  asleep,  and  barter- 
ed for  whiskey,  without  his  knowing  it ! 

Our  Indian  soldiers  were  of  great  service  in  conducting  the  trade.  If 
any  difficulty  occurred,  they  were  always  at  hand  to  assist  in  its  adjustment, 
and  preserve  order  and  quiet  so  far  as  lay  in  their  power.  If  any  visitor 
became  troublesome,  they  at  once  ordered  him  to  his  lodge,  and  enforced 
their  commands  in  case  of  resistance. 

Every  trader  is  necessitated  to  employ  one  or  more  braves  to  assist  him 
in  his  business  at  the  villages.  An  Indian  considers  it  a  great  honor  thus 
to  receive  the  confidence  of  a  white  man  and  "  act  soldier  "  for  him,  as  he 
denominates  it.  Some  of  them  have  not  unfrequently  gone  so  far  as  to 
kill  those  of  their  people  who  proved  guilty  of  misusing  the  traders  by 
whom  they  were  employed. 


OUTRAGEOUS  CONDUCT.  79 

They  exercise  a  kind  of  supervisory  office  in  the  management  of  affairs 
which  could  not  well  be  dipensed  with, — and  very  often  have  the  lives  of 
traders  been  preserved  by  the  judgment  and  discretion  of  these  men. 

Dec.  25th.  Christmas  finds  us  in  our  new  residence,  which,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  chimney,  is  now  completed. 

This  great  annual  festival  is  observed  with  all  the  exhilarating  hilarity 
and  good  cheer  that  circumstances  will  allow.  Several  little  extras  for 
the  occasion  have  been  procured  from  the  Indians,  which  prove  quite  whole- 
some and  pleasant-tasted.  One  of  these,  called  washena,  consists  of 
dried  meat  pulverized  and  mixed  with  marrow  ;  another  is  a  preparation 
of  cherries,  preserved  when  first  picked  by  pounding  and  sun-drying  them, 
(they  are  served  by  mixing  them  with  bouillie,  or  the  liquor  of  fresh-boiled 
meat,  thus  giving  to  it  an  agreeable  winish  taste  ;)  a  third  is  marrow-fat, 
an  article  in  many  respects  superior  to  butter ;  and,  lastly,  we  obtained  a 
kind  of  flour  made  from  the  pomme  blanc,  (white  apple,)  answering  very 
well  as  a  substitute  for  that  of  grain. 

The  above  assortment,  with  a  small  supply  of  sugar  and  coffee,  as  well  as 
several  other  dainties  variously  prepared,  affords  an  excellent  dinner,—  and, 
though  different  in  kind,  by  no  means  inferior  in  quality  to  the  generality 
of  dinners  for  which  the  day  is  noted  in  more  civilized  communities. 

The  day  following  our  turbulent  neighbors  were  augmented  in  num- 
ber by  the  accession  of  another  village  of  Brulcs,  and  Marto-cogershne,  of 
whom  I  have  spoken  upon  a  former  occasion,  became  with  his  family  our 
constant  annoyance. 

Visiting  us  at  one  time,  squaws  and  all — as  was  his  daily  custom — to 
beg  liquor,  (which,  some  way  or  other,  he  always  obtained,)  the  brother  of 
our  tormentor  demanded  a  quantity  of  that  article  to  take  with  him  to  his 
lodge.  This,  after  many  sharp  words,  was  offered;  but,  having  no  vessel 
for  its  conveyance,  he  extended  his  demands  to  a  kettle, — which,  of  course, 
was  refused ;  whereupon  he  threatened  vengeance  unless  both  were  forth- 
coming upon  the  mocosco,*  (prairie,)  and  required  still  farther  the  gift  of 
a  pair  of  moccasins. 

Our  trader  replied,  "  The  liquor  is  for  you,  and  here  are  the  moccasins, 
(pulling  off  his  own  and  passing  them  to  him,)  but  the  kettle  you  cannot 
have." 

The  affair  thus  ended  for  the  present,  and  the  modest  beggar  retired  to 
his  lodge.  The  next  morning,  however,  two  of  our  horses  were  found 
pierced  with  arrows,  and  so  badly,  that  they  died  soon  after. 

At  another  time,  Marto-cogershne  became  so  enraged  at  being  refused  a 
whole  keg  of  liquor  "  on  the  prairie,"  he  rushed  upon  the  trader  with  his 
butcher-knife  to  kill  him.  What  would  have  been  the  result,  it  is  hard  to 
tell,  had  I  not  stayed  the  descending  weapon  by  seizing  the  fellow's  arm. 
Here  our  soldiers  interfered  and  put  him  out  of  the  house, — closing  the 
door  upon  him.  The  exasperated  savage  then  commenced  shooting  upon 
us  through  the  door  ; — two  Indian  boys  passing  in  the  interval  also  furnish- 

*  This  expression  implies  the  bestowment-  of  anything  as  a  free  gift.  It  is  also  used 
to  denote  a  random  way  of  speaking  with  regard  to  truth. 


80  INDIAN  SUPERSTITIONS. 

ed  marks  for  his  gim,  and  not  long  subsequently  a  mule  and  an  ox  belong- 
ing to  us  fell  to  appease  his  insulted  dignity. 

However,  the  chef  cfouvre  of  his  rascality  was  exhibited  in  stealing  our 
whole  cavallard,*  consisting  of  ten  head  of  horses  and  mules,  which  he 
drove  into  the  mountains.  We  were  compelled  to  give  a  quantity  of  liquor 
and  ammunition,  two  blankets,  and  several  other  articles  before  we  could 
secure  their  return. 

From  the  movement  of  things,  he  was  evidently  instigated  by  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company  traders  to  do  us  all  the  mischief  in  his  power.  Certain 
it  is,  he  was  their  regular  "  soldier,"  and  received  from  them  numerous 
presents  in  consideration  of  his  good  conduct. 

The  employees  of  this  company  are  frequently  guilty  of  such  disgrace- 
ful conduct.  In  connection  with  this  conclusion  I  might  cite  instance 
upon  instance,  and  string  out  a  volume  of  proof,  were  it  necessary. 

Soon  after  Christmas  we  commenced  erecting  our  chimney.  The  ma- 
terials for  it  were  procured  from  an  adjoining  bank.  While  engaged  in 
quarrying  them,  the  operator  came  to  a  crevice  filled  with  a  strange 
fleshy  substance,  coiled  together  like  the  folds  of  a  huge  rope.  "  Hallo  !" 
cried  he,  with  astonishment,  "here's  the  Devil,  himself!" 

The  extraordinary  announcement  brought  all  hands  to  the  spot  to  get  a 
peep  at  u  Old  Nick,"  and  the  Indians,  also,  witnessing  the  unusual  commo- 
tion, came  hurrying  up  to  learn  its  cause. 

The  result  proved,  that,  if  not  the  Devil,  it  was  his  great  prototype, — it 
was  that  "  Old  Serpent,"  with  all  his  progeny. 

By  means  of  a  stick,  thirty-six  large  snakes  were  exposed  to  view, — 
some  of  them  six  feet  in  length.  They  were  in  a  torpid  state,  the  result 
of  the  severe  cold  of  winter. 

Having  drawn  them  out,  one  by  one,  it  was  proposed  to  treat  them  to  a 
warm  bath.  Accordingly,  after  placing  them  in  a  hole  for  the  purpose,  a 
keetle  of  scalding  water  was  thrown  upon  them.  The  vivifying  effects  of 
this  unwonted  application  restored  them  to  a  sudden  animation,  when, 
wriggling  and  twisting  for  a  few  moments  in  all  the  contortions  of  agony, 
they  at  last  tacitly  curled  up  and  expired. 

The  Indians  were  much  shocked  on  seeing  this,  and  expressed  their 
astonishment  at  our  reckless  presumption  by  their  deeply  accented  "  tula," 
— turning  away  from  the  spot  with  evident  emotions  of  terror. 

On  inquiring  the  cause,  I  learned  in  answer,  that  the  various  Indian 
tribes  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mountains  are  accustomed  to  regard  the  snake 
with  a  kind  of  superstitious  veneration,  and  consider  the  act  of  killing  it 
a  sure  harbinger  of  calamity.  In  the  observance  of  this  singular 
notion,  they  are  scrupulously  exact ; — but,  in  despite  of  repeated  inquries, 
I  have  been  unable  to  obtain  the  reasons  upon  which  the  whim  is  based. 

These  tribes  cherish  many  religious  tenets,  rites,  and  customs, — some 
general  and  others  peculiar  only  to  individuals. 

*  This  is  a  mountain  phrase  of  Spanish  origin,  (cavellardo,)  and  means  a  band  of 
horses  or  mules. 


THEOLOGICAL  NOTIONS.  81 

An  Indian  will  never  pronounce  the  name  of  the  Big  Medicine,  or  Great 
Spirit,  other  than  in  a  reverential  manner,  nor  upon  trival  occasions. 

This  being  is  considered  the  Great  Superintendent  of  all  things,  whose 
power  sustains  the  universe,— causing  day  and  night  with  the  varying 
seasons,— making  the  grass  to  grow,  the  water  to  run,  and  the  rains  to  fall, 
for  the  good  of  man  and  beast. 

Some  imagine  He  lives  in  the  sun ;  others,  in  the  air ;  others,  in  the 
ground ;  and  others  in  the  immensity  of  His  works. 

The  animal  or  thing  possessed  of  wonderful  or  extraordinary  powers, 
such  as  their  ignorance  ascribes  to  be  the  attributes  of  the  Supreme 
Being,  they  look  upon  as  endowed  with  a  greater  or  less  share  of  His 
presence,  and  venerate  it  accordingly.  Thus,  the  sun,  fire,  lightning, 
thunder,  fountains  of  peculiar  medicinal  qualities,  extraordinary  localities, 
and  various  other  things  are  alike  objects  of  religious  regard. 

Although  their  theological  sentiments  are  generally  the  same,  the  man- 
ner of  showing  their  respect  for  this  Overruling  Providence  differs  with 
different  tribes,  families,  and  even  persons.  For  instance,— some  tribes 
shave  their  heads  in  token  of  their  submission  to  Him.  Others  mark 
themselves  for  His  own  by  some  peculiar  manner  of  cutting  their  ears 
for  the  reception  of  ornaments ;— while  others  burn  their  thighs,  tattoo 
their  breasts,  scar  their  arms,  or  flatten  the  heads  of  infants,  for  a  like 
purpose. 

The  instrument,  with  which  such  ceremonies  are  performed,  is  invariably 
thrown  away.  In  case  of  cutting  the  ears  of  an  infant,  the  gift  bestowed 
upon  the  operator  is  regarded  as  indicative  of  its  success  during  life  ; — 
parents  have  been  known  to  give  as  high  as  ten  horses  on  like  occasions. 

Some  make  indelible  marks  of  a  blue  color  upon  their  chins  and  fore- 
heads,— or  the  figures  of  lizards,  snakes,  arrows,  or  other  objects  upon 
their  arms. 

Some  show  their  reverence  in  the  peculiar  manner  of  receiving  the  pipe 
and  passing  it  to  another ; — others  by  certain  ceremonies  before  smoking, — 
thus,  pointing  the  pipe-stem  to  the  zenith,  then  towards  the  ground,  then 
horizontally  upon  either  side,  as  if  saying,  "  Oh  thou,  whose  habitation  is 
immensity,  accept  this  as  the  willing  tribute  of  homage  from  thy  child." 

They  will  never  allow  a  bone  of  any  kind  to  be  broken  within  their 
lodges,  and  express  great  consternation  and  alarm  at  such  an  occurrence. 
Some  will  not  permit  a  stick  of  wood  to  be  struck  with  a  knife  or  other 
edged  tool  while  burning,  and  others  exhibit  their  devotion  by  some  pe- 
culiarity in  the  structure  of  their  lodges,  or  the  mode  of  placing  their 
medicine-bags,  the  length  and  shape  of  their  arrows,  their  fashion  of  hair- 
dressing,  and  various  minutiae  of  like  character. 

Others  again  will  never  eat  unless  they  bestow  the  first  mouthful  as 
an  offering  to  the  prairie, — believing  that,  as  the  prairie  affords  water, 
grass,  and  game,  for  the  good  of  the  red  man,  it  is  the  fullest  cmbodyment 
of  the  Essence  of  Good ;  therefore,  in  the  observance  of  this  practice,  they 
not  only  acknowledge  their  faith  in  the  existence  of  the  Great  Spirit,  but 
set  apart  the  first  of  their  substance  as  test  of  their  piety. 

Their  ideas  of  the  existence  of  a  principle,  or  being,  wno  is  the  author 
and  prompter  of  evil,  are  crude  and  indefinite. 

They  are  ready  to  acknowledge  its  reality,  but  seem  to  consider  its  per- 


82  DANGERS  OF  THE  LIQUOR  TRADE. 

son  more  manifest  in  man  himself  than  any  other  creature  or  thing. 
Their  enemies  they  esteem  as  the  more  special  incarnation  of  this  prin- 
ciple, and  next  to  them  they  regard  a  w  orthless,  mean,  and  cowardly  indi- 
vidual of  their  own  people.  They  also  look  upon  creatures  of  an  injurious 
and  hurtful  nature,  as  the  greater  or  less  impersonation  of  evil. 

Their  notions  of  right  and  wrong  are  equally  simple. 

It  is  right  to  be  brave,  to  do  good  to  friends,  to  relieve  the  needy,  to  feed 
the  hungry,  and  to  worship  the  Great  Spirit, — these  are  acts  of  general 
morality.  There  are  various  other  duties  taught  by  their  code  relative  to 
,  intercourse  with  each  other, — to  children  and  parents,  husbands  and  wives, 
deference  to  age,  chastity  etc.,  the  performance  of  which  is  essential  to 
virtue. 

The  line  of  demarkation  between  virtue  and  vice  is  yet  more  simple  and 
comprehensive  ; — every  thing  derelict  of  right  is  wrong. 

I  shall  recur  to  several  points,  connected  with  the  foregoing  subjects,  in 
another  place. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Dangers  connected  with  the  liquor  trade. — Difficulty  with  Bull  Eagle. — Scenes  of 
bloodshed  and  horror.— Cheating  in  the  fur  trade. — How  the  red  man  becomes 
tutored  in  vice. — A  chief's  daughter  offered  in  exchange  for  liquor. — Indian  mode 
of  courtship  and  marriage. — Squaws  an  article  of  traffic. — Divorce. — Plurality  01 


The  difficulty  and  danger,  not  to  say  crime  and  bloodshed,  connected 
with  the  illicit  trade  in  alcohol,  as  conducted  among  our  western  Indians, 
is  great  and  imminent.  To  illustrate  this  point,  I  need  only  to  place  before 
the  reader  a  summary  of  facts  which  occurred,  many  of  them  under  my 
own  observation,  during  the  winter  of  1842. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  at  White  river  a  man  was  sent  to  a  neighboring 
village  with  a  keg  of  diluted  alcohol,  for  the  purpose  of  barter.  The 
Indians,  feeling  more  disposed  to  drink  than  pay  for  it,  demanded  the  keg 
as  a  gift  "  on  the  prairie."  This  was  refused.  They  threatened— a  fight 
ensued,  (the  soldiers  and  trader  defending  the  keg  and  the  Indians  trying 
to  take  it.)  Weapons  were  used,  and  the  result  was,  both  soldiers  and 
trader  were  beaten  ofT, — the  latter,  after  being  dragged  through  the  lodge- 
fire  three  or  four  times,  narrowly  escaped  with  his  life. 

A  party  of  Indians  under  the  excitement  of  strong  drink,  attacked  and 
took  a  trading  house  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  near  by, — robbing  it 
of  both  liquor  and  goods. 

Two  parties  in  the  Fur  Company's  employ,  from  different  posts,  met  at 
a  neighboring  village, — one  having  goods  and  the  other  alcohol.  The 
Indians,  as  usual,  got  drunk,  and  commenced  a  fight  among  themselves ; — 
because  the  goods-trader  happened  to  be  in  the  lodge  of  one  of  the  weaker 
party,  they  attacked  him.  He  was  compelled  to  flee,  and  barely  escaped 
'vith  his  life  through  the  friendly  interference  of  the  squaws.     His  goods 


84  EFFECTS  OF  DRUNKENNESS. 

"  Is  this  your  love  for  the  pale-face  ?"  returned  the  infuriated  chieftain. 
"  Then  die  you  first !" 

Upon  this,  seizing  the  defenceless  old  man,  he  drew  his  knife  and  made 
a  heart-thrust.  The  intended  victim,  however,  grasped  the  descending 
blade  in  his  bare  hand  and  arrested  its  course — but  his  fingers  were 
nearly  severed  in  so  doing.  Here  the  wife  of  Bull  Eagle  rushed  up  to 
her  husband  and  seized  him  by  both  arms,  while  others  interfered,  and  the 
scene  of  conflict  was  removed  from  the  apartment  to  the  space  in  front. 

Now  was  a  general  fight.  The  women  and  children,  crying  for  terror, 
ran  about  in  the  utmost  confusion  and  dismay, — while  raving  combatants 
yelled  and  whooped,  as  knives,  clubs,  and  tomahawks  were  busily  dealing 
wounds  and  scattering  blood. 

Soon  after,  the  parties  retired  to  their  village,  and  the  melee  ended  with 
only  six  wounded. 

In  a  brief  interval  the  Bull  Eagle  again  returned,  accompanied  by  his 
wife, — the  latter  earnestly  endeavoring  to  dissuade  him  from  his  purpose. 

A  shot  was  his  first  salute,  on  entering  the  door,  which  a  timely  thrust 
from  the  squaw  averted  from  its  object.  The  kind-hearted  creature  then 
grasped  the  bow.  Relinquishing  it  in  her  hands,  the  madman  made  a  pass 
at  the  trader  with  his  tomahawk, — this  blow  was  dodged,  and  the  heroine, 
rushing  between  the  two,  prevented  its  repetition.  Dropping  his  tomahawk, 
he  then  fell  upon  the  object  of  his  hatred,  butcher-knife  in  hand. 

But  here  he  found  himself  in  the  firm  grasp  of  several  friendly  Indians, 
by  whom  he  was  borne  from  the  room. 

This  state  of  affairs  was  the  signal  for  another  engagement  between 
Bull  Eagle,  at  the  head  of  his  partizans,  aud  the  friends  of  the  whites, — 
more  desperate  and  bloody  than  the  former.  With  great  difficulty  we  re- 
tained our  arms  from  the  forcible  grasp  of  the  contending  factions.  This, 
to  us,  was  a  moment  fraught  with  extreme  peril — not  knowing  friend  from 
foe,  and  instantly  apprehensive  of  the  knives  and  arrows  of  the  avengeful 
throng.  It  was,  indeed,  a  moment  when  the  agony  of  suspense  quivered 
with  thrilling  intensity  upon  every  nerve,  and  vibrated  in  every  sinew.  To 
fight,  would  have  been  a  relief.  But,  whom  should  we  fight  ?  It  might  have 
been  our  best  friends — for  who  could  discriminate?  The  death  of  one 
connected  with  either  party,  at  our  hands,  would  have  proved  the  signal  for 
our  instant  slaughter.  Both  would  have  united  to  exterminate  us, — and, 
beset  as  we  were,  upon  all  sides,  prudence  dictated  a  strict  nutrality. 
Sometimes  fifteen  or  twenty  would  be  struggling  for  our  arms  at  once, — 
a  strong  temptation,  as  the  reader  may  rest  assured,  for  us  to  use  them  in 
self-defence. 

Meanwhile  the  conflict  continued  with  unabated  fury.  Several  attempts 
were  made  upon  the  life  of  Bull  Eagle,  but  without  success.  Two  were 
killed  and  others  wounded,  when  a  final  stop  was  put  to  the  further  effusion 
of  blood  by  the  withdrawal  of  the  chieftan  to  his  lodge. 

In  about  an  hour  subsequent,  he  returned  for  the  second  time, — but 
reason  had  now  resumed  her  sway,  and  he  came  to  apologize  for  his  bad 
conduct.  Calling  our  trader  his  "  very  good,  his  best  friend,"  he  cried  for 
grief  that  he  had  attempted  to  kill  him.  He  averred  that  liquor  had  made 
him  a.  fool,  and  said  he  should  never  cease  to  regret  the  great  wicked- 
ness he  had  thought  of  doing  to  his  "  best  friend."     Ever  after  this  affair, 


CHEATING. 

he  remained  our  steadfast  friend,  and  presented  our  trader  with  six  super- 
fine robes,  in  evidence  of  the  sincerity  of  his  repentance. 

The  foregoing  results  of  this  infamous  traffic,  are  only  a  few  of  the 
many  instances  of  like  nature  I  might  cite,  in  proof  of  its  imminent  danger 
to  those  engaged  in  its  prosecution ; — but  this  is  not  the  darkest  part  of  the 
picture.  There  are  yet  scenes  in  reserve,  more  bloody  and  dreadful  than 
those  above  recited,  though  not,  perhaps,  quite  as  perilous  to  the  whites 
themselves.  They  all  occurred  in  the  winter  of  1842,  during  the  brief 
period  of  two  months,  and  resulted  immediately  from  the  sale  of  liquor. 

I  shall  not  enter  into  details,  but  content  myself  by  laying  before  the 
reader  a  mere  synopsis  of  facts. 

In  November,  the  American  Fur  Company,  from  Fort  John,  sent  a 
quantity  of  their  drugged  liquor  to  an  Indian  village,  on  Chugwater,  as  a 
gift,  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  the  sale  of  that  article  by  their  competi- 
tors in  trade.  The  consequence  was,  the  poor  creatures  all  got  drunk,  and 
a  fight  ensued,  which  ended  in  the  death  of  two  head  chiefs,  Bull  Bear  and 
Yellow  Lodge,  and  six  of  their  friends, — besides  the  wounding  of  fourteen 
others,  who  took  part  in  the  affray. 

Soon  after,  an  affair  occurred  from  the  same  cause,  resulting  in  the 
death  of  three. 

About  the  same  time,  another  of  like  nature  took  place  in  the  Chyenne 
village,  and  three  more  were  killed. 

Several  were  also  killed,  in  the  interval,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Chyenne  and 
Missouri  rivers,  by  their  friends  and  companions,  while  under  the  madden- 
ing influence  of  intoxicating  drink, — the  precise  number  is  not  known. 

The  very  last  trade  at  the  close  of  the  season,  produced  its  usual  deeds 
of  bloodshed  and  murder.  Two  Indians  were  killed,  and  the  person  who 
sold  to  them  the  vile  article  narrowly  escaped  with  his  life. 

I  might  go  on  still  further  with  the  sickening  sketch  ;  but,  as  enough  has 
already  been  said  to  shock  the  sensibilities  of  the  reader,  in  endeavoring  to 
afford  him  some  idea  of  the  enormities  and  untold  horrors  connected  with 
this  criminal  traffic,  I  must  forbear. 

The  liquor  used  in  this  business,  is  generally  third  or  fourth  proof  whiskey, 
which,  after  being  diluted  by  a  mixture  of  three  parts  water,  is  sold  to  the 
Indians  at  the  exorbitant  rate  of  three  cups  per  robe, — the  cups  usually 
holding  about  three  gills  each. 

But,  notwithstanding  the  above  unconscionable  price,  a  lai'ge  share  of  the 
profits  result  from  the  ingenious  roguery  of  those  conducting  the  trade. 

Sometimes  the  measuring-cup  is  not  more  than  half  full ; — then,  again 
the  act  of  measuring  is  little  other  than  mere  feint,  (the  purchaser  receiv 
ing  not  one  fourth  the  quantity  paid  for.) 

When  he  becomes  so  intoxicated  as  to  be  unable  to  distinguish  the  differ- 
ence between  water  and  liquor,  (a  thing  not  rare,)  the  former  is  passed  off 
upon  him  as  the  genuine  article. 

Another  mode  of  cheating  is,  by  holding  the  cup  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  two  front  fingers  occupy  a  place  upon  the  inside,  and  thus  save  to  the 
trader  nearly  a  gill  at  each  filling. 

Some  have  two  cups,  (one  of  the  usual  size,  and  the  other  less,)  which 


86  A  CHIEF'S  DAUGHTER. 

are  so  exchanged  as  to  induce  the  purchaser  to  believe  he  is  obtaining  a 
third  more  than  he  actually  receives ;  and  others,  yet  more  cunning,  fill  the 
measure  half  full  of  tallow  and  deal  out  the  liquor  from  off  it, — the  witless 
dupe,  not  thinking  to  examine  the  bottom,  supposes  he  receives  the  requi- 
site quantity. 

J  No  wonder  the  Indian,  with  such  examples  before  him,  learns  to  hate  the 
white  man,  and  despise  and  abhor  his  boasted  civilization.  No  wonder  he 
looks  with  an  eye  of  suspicion,  alike  upon  his  religion  and  his  learning, 
and  revolts  at  the  thought  of  either,  as  the  ingenious  devices  of  scientific 
roguery.  He  is  taught  all  the  white  man's  vices  before  he  learns  any  of 
his  virtues.  The  emissaries  of  Satan,  by  their  untiring  efforts,  effectually 
stop  his  ears,  blind  his  eyes,  and  harden  his  heart,  ere  yet  the  heralds  of 
the  Gospel  set  foot  upon  his  soil,  to  tell  him  of  the  blessings  of  Christianity, 
and  the  way  to  happiness  and  to  heaven. 

If  the  Indian  is  bad,  it  is  because  the  white  man  has  made  him  so.  Un- 
contaminated  by  intercourse  with  the  offscourings  of  civilization,  who  come 
to  cheat  and  despoil  him  of  his  property,  and  deprive  him  of  his  comforts, 
you  find  him  quite  a  different  being.  You  find  him  brave,  generous,  and 
hospitable,  as  well  as  possessed  of  many  exemplary  moral  qualities.  If  he 
is  a  savage,  he  might,  in  many  respects,  prove  a  safe  and  worthy  teacher 
to  those  who  pride  themselves  upon  a  more  enlightened  education. 

He  has  a  heart  instinctive  of  more  genuine  good  feeling  than  his  white 
neighbor — a  soul  of  more  firm  integrity — a  spirit  of  more  unyielding  inde- 
pendence. Place  the  white  man  in  his  condition,  divested  of  all  the  re- 
straints of  law,  and  unacquainted  with  the  learning  and  arts  of  civilized 
life — surrounded  by  all  the  associations  of  the  savage  state — and  the  In- 
dian, by  comparison,  will  then  exhibit,  in  a  more  striking  light,  that  innate 
superiority  he  in  reality  possesses. 

No :  The  Indian  should  not  be  despised.  He  holds  weighty  claims  upon 
our  pity,  our  compassion,  and  our  respect, — but  never  should  he  be 
despised. 

Old  Bull  Tail,  of  whom  I  had  occasion  to  speak  in  a  former  chapter, 
having  forgotten  the  wholesome  sentiments  he  advanced  at  the  time  refer- 
red to,  took  it  into  his  head  to  have  a  spree.  But,  as  he  was  not  possessed 
of  the  means  to  obtain  the  wherewith,  he  adopted  a  somewhat  novel  sub- 
stitute. 

He  had  an  only  daughter, — and  she  was  handsome — the  pride  of  her 
family  and  the  boast  of  her  village.  She  was  lovely,  and  all  the  high  qual- 
ities of  a  princess  were  exhibited  in  her  deportment.  But,  Bull  Tail  must 
drink ;  why  not  give  his  daughter  to  the  Yellow-hair  and  receive  from  him 
a  keg  of  liquor  as  a  marriage  present  ? 

This  thought  was  acted  out,  and  one  morning  the  old  chief  came  to  us, 
followed  by  his  daughter,  who,  aware  of  her  father's  designs,  gave  vent  to 
her  grief  in  a  flood  of  tears. 

As  he  entered  the  door,  our  trader  addressed  him : 

Trader.  Bull  Tail  is  welcome  to  the  lodge  of  the  Long-knife ; — but, 
why  is  his  daughter,  the  pride  of  his  heart,  bathed  in  tears  ?  It  pains  me 
that  one  so  beautiful  should  weep. 


INDIAN  MODE  OF  COURTSHIP.  87 

Bull  Tail  Chintzille  is  a  foolish  girl.  Her  father  loves  her,  and  there- 
fore she  cries. 

Trader.     The  contrary  should  prove  a  greater  cause  for  grief! 

Bull  Tail.  The  Yellow-hair  speaks  well,  and  truth  only  falls  from  his 
lips. 

Trader.  How,  then,  can  she  sorrow  ?  Bid  her  speak  and  tell  me,  that 
I  may  whisper  in  her  ear  words  of  comfort. 

Bull  Tail.  Nay,  pale-face ;  but  I  will  tell  thee.  Bull  Tail  loves  his 
daughter  much — very  much  ;  he  loves  the  Yellow-hair  much  ! — he  loves 
them  both,  very  much.  The  Great  Spirit  has  put  the  thought  into  his  mind 
that  both  might  be  alike  his  children ;  then  would  -his  heart  leap  for  joy  at 
the  twice- spoken  name  of  father ! 

Trader.     What  do  I  hear  ?     I  know  not  the  meaning  of  thy  words. 

Bull  Tail.  Sure,  pale-face,  thou  art  slow  to  understand !  Bull  Tail 
would  give  his  daughter  to  the  Yellow-hair, — for  who  like  him  is  so  worthy 
to  take  her  to  his  lodge  ?  Bull  Tail  has  for  a  long  time  called  the  pale- 
face his  brother,  and  now  he  would  claim  the  Yellow-hair  as  his  son. 
Loves  he  not  Chintzille  ? 

Trader.  Were  I  to  deny  my  joy  at  the  words  of  Bull  Tail,  my  tongue 
would  lie  !  The  Yellow-hair  has  no  wife,  and  who,  like  the  lovely  Chintz- 
ille, is  so  worthy  that  he  should  take  her  to  his  bosom  ?  How  could  he 
ever  show  his  gratitude  to  her  noble  father ! 

Bull  Tail.  The  gift  is  free,  and  Bull  Tail  will  be  honored  in  its  accept- 
ance,— his  friends  will  all  be  glad  with  him.  But,  that  they  may  bless  the 
Yellow-hair,  let  him  fill  up  the  hollow-wood  *  with  fire-water,  and  Bull 
Tail  will  take  it  to  his  lodge  ; — then  the  maiden  shall  be  thine. 

Trader.     But,  Chintzille  grieves, — she  loves  not  the  Yellow-hair! 

Bull  Tail.  Chintzille  is  foolish.  Let  the  Yellow-hair  measure  the 
fire-water  and  she  shall  be  thine ! 

Trader.  Nay,  but  the  Yellow-4iair  may  not  do  this.  Chintzille  should 
never  be  the  wile  of  him  she  loves  not ! 

The  old  man  continued  to  plead  for  some  time,  in  order  to  bring  to  a  suc- 
cessful issue  the  negotiation  by  wThich  he  hoped  to  "wet  his  whistle"  and 
gain  a  son-in-law, — but  all  to  no  purpose.  Our  trader  could  not  be  persua- 
ded to  form  an  alliance  so  entangling  upon  any  such  terms,  and  the  chief- 
tain left  with  all  the  lineaments  of  disappointment  and  chagrin  depicted  upon 
his  countenance. 

The  mode  of  marriage  prevalent  among  the  mountain  and  prairie  tribes 
would  seem  rather  strange  and  somewhat  unfair  to  the  better  informed  of 
civilized  communities. 

The  lady  has  little  to  say  or  do  in  the  business.  When  an  Indian  takes 
it  into  his  head  to  get  married  and  meets  with  the  squaw  suiting  his  fancy, 
he  wastes  no  time  in  useless  courtship,  but  hastens  to  her  father  and  de- 
mands of  him  to  know  how  much  he  loves  his  daughter  and  what  gift  of 
horses  will  make  his  heart  rejoice  in  a  son-in-law  ? 

The  father,  after  consulting  with  his  daughter  and  her  mother,  states  the 

*Keg. 
8* 


88  POLYGAMY. 

terms.  If  these  prove  agreeable  to  the  suitor,  he  immediately  accepts 
them,  and  the  twain  "  become  one  flesh  "  without  further  ceremony. 

In  case  the  woman  has  no  father,  her  eldest  brother  fills  his  place, — and 
if  she  have  neither  father  nor  brother,  her  next  nearest  relative  assumes 
the  responsibility  of  bestowing  her  in  marriage. 

If  she  be  the  eldest  daughter,  and  has  unmarried  sisters,  the  bridegroom 
becomes  equally  entitled  to  them,  and  is  looked  upon  as  their  common  hus- 
band. 

The  first  year  succeeding  this  new  relation,  the  bride's  family  consider 
all  the  horses  and  other  valuables  of  the  new-made  husband  as  their  own ; 
the  second  year  he  is  permitted  to  retain  his  personal  property  for  the  use 
of  himself  and  wife  ; — but  the  third  year  he  enjoys  an  equal  right  with  his 
relatives  to  everything  in  their  possession. 

The  decision  of  parents  in  the  bestowment  of  a  daughter  in  marriage  is 
generally  controlled  by  the  largeness  of  the  amount  offered ;  thus  showing 
that  civilized  life  is  not  the  only  condition  in  which  individuals  are  some- 
times governed  by  sordid  motives  in  pronouncing  upon  questions  of  such 
vital  importance  to  the  welfare  of  others. 

The  female  is  the  only  party  upon  whom  the  marriage  contract  is  con- 
sidered binding. 

The  man  may  sunder  it  at  any  time  suiting  his  convenience  or  caprice. 
He  has  the  power,  even,  to  dispose  of  his  wife  to  another,  or,  at  a  mere 
word,  to  absolve  himself  from  all  obligation  to  her.  In  case  of  the  latter, 
the  discarded  one  returns  to  her  father's  lodge, — ready  again  to  test  the  re- 
alities of  this  uncertain  relationship,  whenever  an  opportunity  presents  it- 
self meeting  with  the  approval  of  those  who  assume  to  make  barter  of 
her  affections  and  person. 

A  woman,  to  be  happy  in  this  state  of  society,  should  never  indulge  in 
that  fancied  passion,  pictured  in  such  glowing  colors  by  crack-brained 
poets  and  novel-writers,  called  love ; — or,  if  she  has  the  assurance  to  do 
otherwise,  it  should  be  of  that  more  versatile  and  accommodating  order,  so 
often  exhibited  in  more  refined  circles,  which  may  be  reclaimed  and  trans- 
ferred as  interest  or  circumstances  suggest.  Her  affections  are  not  at  her 
own  disposal,  and,  to  render  life  tolerable,  she  must  learn  to  love  only  as 
she  is  loved,  and  to  love  herself  above  ali  others. 

Next  to  horses,  women  constitute  an  Indian's  chief  wealth.  This  cir- 
cumstance not  unfrequently  results  in  one  individual  appropriating  to 
himself  six  or  eight.  ^ 

The  squaw  is  compelled  to  dress  robes  and  skins,  make  moccasins, 
cure  and  take  care  of  meat,  attend  to  the  horses,  procure  fire-wood,  and 
perform  sundry  other  little  drudgeries  that  an  Indian  will  not  do. 
Through  her  he  becomes  possessed  of  the  means  of  procuring  from  the 
whites  such  articles  as  his  necessities  or  fancy  may  require.  A  plurality 
of  wives  with  him,  therefore,  is  more  a  matter  of  economy  than  other- 
wise. 


89 


CHAPTER  X. 

Tahtunga-goniska. — High  gaming. — Weur-sena  Warkpollo,  a  strange  story.— 
The  Death  Song,  a  tale  of  love. — Medicine-men. — Extraordinary  performance  of 
Tahtunga-mobellu. — Wonderful  feats  of  jugglery. 

Among  our  daily  visitors  was  Tahtunga-egoniska,  a  head  chief  of  the 
Brule  village. 

Years  had  bleached  his  locks  with  their  taming  frosts  and  taught  him 
self-government.  Well  disposed  as  a  man,  he  never  became  a  participant 
in  those  disgusting  scenes  of  intoxication  that  almost  continually  transpir- 
ed around  us.  He  was  a  mere  looker  on — a  moralizer ;  and,  as  he  witness- 
ed the  blameworthy  conduct  of  his  people,  an  ill-suppressed  sigh  was  fre- 
quently audible,  and  the  inward  workings  of  regret  were  plainly  defined 
upon  his  countenance.  Melancholy  too  had  left  her  traces  upon  him,  and, 
as  he  sat  day  by  day  in  gloomy  silence,  he  seemed  the  very  impersonation 
of  grief. 

Whenever  the  throng  dispersed  for  a  few  moments,  he  would  improve 
the  opportunity  for  conversation  with  us ;  for  in  the  benevolence  of  his  heart 
he  loved  the  whites,  and  was  greatly  pained  at  the  injuries  and  injustice  it 
was  so  often  their  lot  to  endure. 

But  he  had  a  story  of  his  own  to  tell ;  it  was  a  tale  of  affliction — a  stab 
at  the  best  feelings  of  a  father's  heart !  And,  by  whom  ?  By  the  very 
whites  he  loved  !  Aye,  by  the  very  men  whose  business  it  was  to  degrade 
his  people  and  ruin  them  by  the  contaminating  effects  of  an  unhallowed 
intercourse ! 

Six  months  had  scarcely  yet  passed  since  the  old  chief  had  been  called  to 
mourn  his  youthful  hope,  and  the  pride  and  joy  of  his  declining  years — his 
first-born  son !     And  that  son  had  fallen  by  the  hand  of  the  white  man ! 

Still,  the  sorrow-stricken  father  harbored  no  thought  of  revenge ;  he 
sought  nothing  for  himself  save  the  locks  of  that  son,  that  he  might  hang 
them  within  his  lodge,  and  gaze  upon  them  and  weep  ! 

His  simple  tale  was  so  touching  in  its  nature  it  served  to  enlist  the  deep 
sympathies  of  our  hearts.  We  began  to  regard  him  with  much  deference, 
and  felt  quite  at  home  in  his  company.  He  would  frequently  entertain  us 
with  his  anecdotes  as  occasions  suggested,  and  at  such  times  he  invaria- 
bly proved  both  agreeable  and  communicative. 

The  history  of  his  own  life,  too,  was  far  from  uninteresting.  He  was 
the  only  one  of  the  Brule  chiefs,  then  living,  who  had  signed  the  first 
treaty  with  the  whites,  since  which  he  had  ever  observed  its  stipulations 
with  scrupulous  exactness,  and  still  carefully  retained  a  silver  medal  be- 
stowed upon  him  by  the  Government  agent  at  that  time. 

Some  of  his  stories  were  garbed  with  a  strange  romance,  and  though 
they  may  appear  foreign  to  truth  in  many  respects,  I  cannot  resist  tho 
temptation  of  presenting  a  few  of  them  to  the  reader. 


90  HIGH  GAMING. 

One  day,  several  Indians  had  betted  largely  upon  a  "game  of  hand;"* 
this  called  forth  from  the  old  man  the  following  story : 

"  When  a  young  man  I  delighted  in  war,  and  seldom  did  a  party  of  our 
people  visit  the  enemy  that  included  me  not  with  its  number.  These 
scars  tell  where  I  stood  when  arrows  flew  thick — hastening  to  spill  the 
blood  of  the  brave. 

"  Rarely  did  we  return  empty-handed  from  the  foeman's  land — without 
horses  to  ride  or  scalps  to  dance.  Yet,  at  times  we  came  back  like  fools, 
and  were  ashamed  to  appear  at  the  soldiers'  feasts. 

"  One  of  these  times  I  well  recollect,  and  I  will  tell  of  it  to  my  white 
children,  that  they  also  may  remember  it. 

"  We  were  proceeding  against  the  Crows,  and,  like  experienced  warri- 
ors, had  sent  our  spy  in  advance  to  look  for  the  enemy.  Hurrying  on,  in 
momentary  expectation  of  a  conflict,  the  stout  hearts  of  our  braves  were 
appalled  by  his  return  without  robe  or  arms,  and  scalpless— and  with  a 
face  suffused  in  blood. 

"  This  was  his  story :  The  enemy,  aware  of  our  approach,  were  awaiting 
us  in  great  numbers.  Encountering  their  scouts,  he  had  been  robbed  and 
scalped,  and  left  fjr  dead.  In  this  situation  he  lay  till  darkness  shut  down 
upon  the  mountain  and  the  night- breeze  gave  him  strength  to  meet  us  and 
advise  our  speedy  return. 

"  Believing  the  strange  tale,  we  hastened  to  revisit  our  lodges,  and  be 
laughed  at. 

"  Three  moons  sped,  and  we  again  penetrated  the  land  of  the  foemen. 
The  scalpless  warrior,  far  in  advance  of  the  main  party,  once  more  dis- 
charged the  duties  of  a  spy. 

"  This  time  a  whoop  of  triumph  announced  the  result  of  his  mission, 
as  he  made  his  appearance  with  the  scalps  of  two,  waving  from  his  spear. 

"  He  tarried  not  to  relate  his  adventure,  but  urged  us  instantly  onward. 
Following  him,  we  were  led  to  the  enemy ;— we  fought  and  were  victo- 
rious. 

"  Among  the  slain  was  one  whose  scalp  was  wanting.  Who  has  done 
this  ?  asked  the  wondering  braves.  But  none  answered.  Our  spy,  smi- 
ling, at  length  broke  silence  : 

" '  Behind  yon  hill,'  said  he,  *  a  fountain  chants  melody  fit  for  warriors' 
ears, — let's  to  it,  that  we  may  drink.' 

"  Following  his  direction,  he  led  to  a  silvery  spring  overhung  by  crags 
and  shaded  by  cottonwoods. 

" '  Drink,  warriors,'  he  exclaimed ;  when,  withdrawing  abruptly,  he  soon 
returned,  and  with  the  arms  and  robe  which  were  his  own  in  other  days. 

"  Warriors,'  resumed  the  spy :  ■  you  wondered  at  my  mishap,  and 
lamented  my  hard  lot  when  last  we  visited  the  Crowman's  country  ;— you 
wondered  at  the  condition  of  one  among  the  recent  slain,  and  asked  for  a 
reason ; — and,  doubtless,  you  wonder  still  more  that  I  now  stand  before 

*  This  is  a  common  game  with  the  mountain  Indians.  It  is  commenced  by  one  of  the 
players  who  encloses  a  gravel-stone  or  a  bullet  in  the  curve  of  his  two  hands  by  pla- 
cing the  palms  together,  then,  after  sundry  tosts  and  evolutions,  suddenly  parting 
them.  If  the  opposing  party  is  shrewd  enough  to  guess  in  which  hand  the  stone  is 
retained,  he  wins;  if  not  not,  he  loses.  Large  amounts  are  often  wagered  upon  the 
result  of  this  play. 


A  STRANGE  STORY.  91 

you  bearing  the  store  of  which  I  was  deprived ! — and  fain  you  would  know 
in  what  manner  I  obtained  the  hair  of  two. 

"  *  Three  times  has  the  night-queen  turned  her  full  face  to  smile  upon  the 
prowess  of  Lacota  arms,  since  at  this  very  spot  I  met  an  enemy.  We 
rushed  towards  each  other  for  the  attack.     'Twas  then  he  cried  : 

44 '  Are  we  not  both  braves  ?  why  should  we  fight  ?  When  our  people 
meet  in  the  fray,  then  may  we  join  arms, — till  then,  a  truce.' 

" '  To  this  I  replied, 

" '  Says  Crowman  peace  ? — then,  be  there  peace.' 

" '  Thus  said,  we  shook  hands  and  sat  down  by  the  fountain. 

"  4  Willing  to  amuse  the  foe,  I  gathered  a  pebble  and  proposed  a  game 
of  hand.  The  challenge  was  accepted,  and  we  played, — first,  arrow  against 
arrow,  then  bow  against  bow,  robe  against  robe,  and  scalp  against  scalp. 

44  'I  was  unsuccessful  and  lost  all, — arrow,  bow,  robe,  and  scalp.  I  gave 
up  all,  but  with  the  extorted  promise  that  we  should  here  meet  again  for 
another  trial  of  skill. 

44  4  True  to  the  word,  we  did  meet  again.  We  played,  and  this  time,  the 
Good  Spirit  showed  me  kindness. 

44  4  Winning  back  arrows,  bow  and  robe,  I  staked  them  all  against  the 
lost  scalp.  The  game  was  a  close  one ;  but  again  the  Good  Spirit  favored 
me,  and  I  won. 

44  4  Crowman,'  said  1, 4  scalp  against  scalp.' 

44  4  The  banter  was  accepted,  and  the  play  continued.  He  lost,  and  I, 
with  my  winnings,  arose  to  leave. 

44  4  Warrior,'  exclaimed  the  luckless  player,  4  meet  me  in  the  fight,  that 
we  may  try  the  game  of  arms,' 

44  4  Thy  words  please  me,'  I  answered.  4  Will  the  Crowman  name  the 
place  ?' 

44  4  A  valley  lies  beyond  this  hill,— there  my  people  await  their  enemies, 
and  there  let  me  hope  to  see  you  with  them.' 

44  4  To  that  place  I  led  you.  We  fought  and  conquered.  My  opponent  at 
play  was  among  the  slain.     Need  I  tell  you  who  took  his  scalp  ?' " 

The  old  man  seemed  to  take  pleasure  in  acquainting  us  with  the  man- 
ners and  customs  of  his  people,  and  was  ever  ready  to  assign  a  reason  for 
any  of  them,  whenever  such  existed.  He  repeated  to  us  the  names  of  all 
the  streams,  mountains,  and  prominent  localities  of  the  country,  and 
explained  the  causes  of  their  several  christenings. 

Some  thirty  miles  to  the  westward  of  us,  flowed  a  large  creek,  called  by 
the  Indians,  44  Weur-sena  Warkpollo,"  or  Old  Woman's  creek.  This 
stream  is  an  affluent  of  the  Chyenne  river,  and  takes  its  rise  at  the  base 
of  a  mountain  bearing  the  same  name. 

The  mountain  is  an  object  of  great  veneration  with  the  Sioux,  who  rarely 
enter  into  its  neighborhood  without  bestowing  upon  it  a  present  of  meat. 
The  old  man  entertained  us  with  the  following  explanation  of  a  custom  so 
singular  : 

44  My  grandfather  told  me  a  tale  he  had  received  from  the  old  men  before 
him,  and  it  is  a  strange  one. 

44  Many  ages  past  bring  us  back  to  the  time  when  the  Lacotas  lived  in 
a  country  far  above  the  sun  of  winter.* 

♦The  north. 


92  A  STRANGE  STORY. 

"  Here,  then,  the  Shoshone  reared  his  white  lodge,  and  scoured  the 
prairies  in  pursuit  of  game ;  while,  as  yet,  the  whole  country  abounded 
with  lakes  and  ponds  of  water,  and  only  the  highlands  and  mountains  were 
left  for  the  buffalo  and  deer. 

"  But  years  passed  on, — the  mountains  and  highlands  continued  to  prey 
upon  the  waters,  and  the  creeks  and  rivers  gradually  reduced  the  limits  of 
their  possessions. 

"  Years  again  fled.  The  Shoshones,  attracted  by  some  better  region,  far 
away,  or  driven  from  their  homes  by  the  hostile  encroachments  of  other 
tribes,  gave  place  to  the  Scarred-arms.* 

"  In  the  course  of  generations,  the  Lacotas  and  the  Scarred-arms  war- 
red with  each  other;  they  fought  with  varied  success  for  many  years. 

"  Once  a  party  of  the  Lacotas  penenetrated  into  the  heart  of  the  enemy's 
country;  on  their  return,  they  fell  into  an  ambuscade, and  only  six  of  them 
were  left  to  tell  the  fate  of  their  companions. 

"  Hotly  pursued  by  the  Scarred-arms,  they  sought  refuge  in  a  mountain. 
There  an  obscure  passage  led  to  a  recess  in  the  mountain's  side,  which 
they  entered,  and  were  pleased  to  find  within  it  a  gravelly  floor,  and  a 
pure  fountain  of  sweet  water. 

"  Tempted  by  the  conveniences  and  security  of  the  place,  they  thought 
to  remain  for  a  few  days  that  they  might  recover  their  strength.  A  small 
fire  was  built  accordingly,  and  the  six  braves  seated  themselves  around  it, 
recounting  to  each  other  their  perils  and  dangerous  exploits,  and  planning 
some  mode  of  extrication  from  their  present  difficulties. 

"  Thus  busied,  a  rustling  noise  from  a  dark  corner  of  the  apartment 
startled  them, — but  still  more  were  they  aroused  by  the  half-disclcsed  form 
of  a  person  moving  in  the  distance.  Words  gave  place  to  silence,  as  the 
warriors,  seizing  their  arms,  awaited  the  feared  assault.  But  the  figure, 
on  advancing  nearer,  proved  that  of  a  feeble  old  woman,  who  addressed 
the  wondering  group  in  their  own  language. 

"  '  Children,'  said  she, *  you  have  been  against  the  Scarred-arms, — you 
have  fought  them, — and  of  a  strong  party,  you  alone  survive.  I  know  it 
all. 

" {  You  seek  in  my  lodge  a  refuge  from  your  pursuers, — and  the  sound  of 
your  voices  with  the  heat  of  your  council-fire  has  disturbed  my  rest  and 
awoke  me  from  a  long,  long  trance. 

"  '  Your  looks  enquire  my  story. 

" '  Many  ages  have  gone,  (for  days,  moons,  seasons,  and  ages  are  painted 
before  me  as  they  pass,)  since  the  Shoshones,  who  lived  where  now  live 
the  Scarred-arms,  visited  the  lodges  of  the  Lacotas,  and  bade  the  prairie 
drink  the  blood  of  slaughtered  braves.  I  was  their  captive,  and  with  the 
scalps  of  the  slain  I  was  taken  from  the  graves  of  my  people,  many  days 
travel. 

" '  The  Shoshone  brought  me  to  this  country,  when  yet  the  buffalo  grazed 
upon  the  hills  and  mountains,  only ;  for  the  valleys  and  plains  were  the 
home  of  waters. 

"'  Living  with  the  Shoshone,  I  was  not  happy.     I  thought  of  my  peo- 

*  Chyennes.  The  name  owes  its  origin  to  the  practice  of  scarring  the  left  arm 
crosswise  yet  adhered  to  by  the  males  of  that  nation. 


A  STRANGE  STORY.  93 

pie,  with  all  those  dear  to  me,  and  prayed  the  Good  Spirit  that  I  might 
again  behold  them  ere  my  passage  to  the  death-land. 

" '  I  fled,  hoping  to  reach  the  home  of  my  birth  ; — but  age  had  enfeebled 
me,  and  being  pursued,  I  sought  refuge  in  this  cave.  Here,  having  passed 
a  night  and  a  day  in  earnest  communion  with  the  Big  Medicine, — a  strange 
feeling  came  upon  me.  I  slumbered,  in  a  dreamy  state  of  consciousness, 
from  then  till  now. 

"  '  But  your  looks  again  ask,  who  are  the  Shoshones  ? — what  became  of 
them  ?     And  from  whence  were  the  Scarred-arms  V 

"  '  The  Lacotas  will  soon  know  the  Shoshones,  and  bring  from  their 
lodges  many  scalps  and  medicine-dogs.  Divided  into  two  tribes,  that 
nation  long  since  sought  home  in  other  lands.  One  crossed  the  snow- 
hills  towards  the  sun-setting  ; — the  Lacotas  shall  visit  them,  and  avenge 
the  blood  and  wrongs  of  ages.  The  other  journeyed  far  away  towards  the 
sun  of  winter,  and  now  live  to  the  leftward  of  the  places  where  the  His- 
panola  builds  his  earth-lodge.* 

" '  Then  came  the  Scarred-arms  from  a  far  ofT  country,  a  land  of  much 
snow  and  cold.  Pleased  with  the  thickly  tenanted  hunting  grounds  that 
here  met  them,  they  stopped  for  the  chase,  and,  by  a  possession  through 
successive  generations,  have  learned  to  consider  these  grounds  as  their 
own.     But  they  are  not  theirs. 

"  '  The  Great  Spirit  gives  them  to  the  Lacotas,  and  they  shall  inhabit  the 
land  of  their  daughter's  captivity. 

" '  Why  wait  ye  here  ?  Go  and  avenge  the  blood  of  your  comrades 
upon  the  Scarred-arms.  They  even  now  light  their  camp-fire  by  the 
stream  at  the  mountain's  base.  Fear  not, — their  scalps  are  yours  ! 
Then  return  ye  to  my  people,  that  ye  may  come  and  receive  your  inheri- 
tance. 

"  *  Haste  ye,  that  I  may  die.  And,  oh  Warkantunga !  inasmuch  as  thou 
hast  answered  the  prayer  of  thine  handmaid,  and  shown  to  me  the  faces  of 
my  people,  take  me  from  hence.' 

"  The  awe-struck  warriors  withdrew.  They  found  the  enemy  encamped 
at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  They  attacked  him  and  were  victorious  ; — 
thirty-five  scalps  were  the  trophies  of  their  success. 

"  On  reaching  their  homes  the  strange  adventure  excited  the  astonish- 
ment of  the  whole  nation.  The  Scarred-arms  were  attacked  by  our  war- 
riors, thus  nerved  with  the  hope  of  triumph,  and  were  eventually  driven 
from  the  country  now  possessed  by  the  Locotas  as  their  own. 

"  The  grateful  braves  soon  sought  out  the  mountain,  to  do  reverence  to 
the  medicine- woman  who  had  told  them  so  many  good  things.  A  niche  in 
the  mountain-side,  from  whence  issued  a  sparkling  streamlet,  told  their 
place  of  refuge  ;  but  the  cave  and  the  woman  alike  had  disappeared. 

"  Each  successive  season  do  our  warriors  visit  the  Shoshones  for  scalps 
and  medicine-dogs; — and  each  of  our  braves,  as  he  passes  the  Old  Woman's 

*  It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  the  Cumanches  and  Snakes,  (Shoshones,)  though  living 
nearly  a  thousand  miles  distant  from  each  other,  with  hostile  tribes  intervening, 
tmeak  precisely  the  same  language,  and  call  themselves  by  the  same  general  name. 
They  have  lost  all  tradition,  however,  of  having  formed  one  nation,  in  any  previous 


94  THE  DEATH  SONG. 

mountain,  fails  not  to  bestow  upon  it  his  tribute  of  veneration,  or  quench 
his  thirst  from  the  creek  that  bears  her  name." 

A  place  on  White  river — where  the  stream  pours  its  full  force  against 
the  base  of  a  lofty  peak,  and  the  powerful  attrition  of  its  waters  has  formed 
a  rocky  precipice  of  several  hundred  feet  in  height — is  known  as  "  The 
Death  Song."  The  singularity  of  this  name  led  me  to  enquire  the  reasons 
which  prompted  its  bestowment.  Ever  ready  to  answer  questions  of  this 
nature,  the  old  chief  related  the  following  story  : 

"  Once,  on  a  time,  the  Oglallas  and  Burnt-thighs  held  their  encampmei  t 
upon  the  river,  opposite  to  the  high  point  of  which  my  son  enquires.  While 
there,  a  dog-soldier*  of  the  Burnt-thighs  received  the  offer  of  six  horses  from 
an  Oglalla  brave,  for  his  only  daughter — a  sweet  flower — such  an  one  as 
oft  pierces  the  warrior's  heart  with  her  charms,  when  the  arrows  of  ene- 
mies fall  harmless  at  his  feet.  The  offer  was  quickly  accepted— for  the 
dog-soldier  was  poor. 

M  When  Chischille  (for  that  was  the  name  of  the  fair  one)  heard  she 
wTas  to  become  the  wife  of  the  Oglalla,  she  cried  for  grief, — and  so  obstinate 
was  her  resistance,  the  marriage  was  deferred  for  several  days  on  that 
account. 

"  But,  why  did  Chischille  grieve  ?  She  had  looked  upon  a  handsome 
warrior  of  her  own  village,  and  she  loved  him.  She  forgot  her  duty,  as  a 
daughter,  to  love  only  at  her  father's  bidding.  Her  heart  had  been  playing 
truant  and  had  lost  itself  in  the  labyrinths  of  girlish  fancy.  Bitter  were 
the  fruits  of  that  presumption. 

"  Chischille,  in  the  interval,  contrived  to  meet  the  one  of  her  choice,  and 
the  two  fled  towards  a  distant  village,  there  to  live  in  the  undisturbed  en- 
joyment of  their  youthful  loves. 

"  But,  alas,  for  them !  They  were  pursued,  and  overtaken.  The  life  of 
the  young  warrior  atoned  for  his  temerity, — while  Chischille  was  cruelly 
beaten  and  brought  back  to  her  father's  lodge. 

"  The  Oglalla  had  already  paid  the  purchase  price,  and,  ere  the  morrow's 
sunset,  was  to  receive  his  fair  prize  at  the  hand  of  the  dog-soldier. 

"  Chischille,  arising  with  the  dawn,  fresh-plaited  her  hair,  and  arraying 
herself  in  her  proudest  attire,  left  the  lodge.  No  one  thought  strange  at 
seeing  her  thus  gaily  dressed  for  her  wedding  day,  and,  as  she  tripped 
along,  many  a  warrior's  heart  beat  high  and  loud  at  the  thought  that  a 
creature  so  lovely  was  to  become  the  bride  of  another. 

"  Directing  her  course  to  the  river,  she  crossed  it  and  ascended  the  high 
peak  upon  the  opposite  side.  There,  seating  herself  upon  the  utmost  verge 
of  the  precipice,  she  gazed  calmly  from  its  dizzy  height. 

"  In  her  lofty  station,  with  her  raven  locks  streaming  in  the  winds,  and 
the  matchless  beauty  of  her  person  so  enchantingly  exposed  to  view,  she 
seemed  more  like  a  being  of  the  Spirit-Land  than  aught  human.  The 
sweetest  prairie-flower  was  ne'er  hall  so  lovely. 

"  Her  strange  attitude  arrested  the  eyes  of  all. 

"  'Why  sits  she  there  ? — she  will  fall  and  be  dashed  to  pieces !'  was  the 
general  cry.     '  But  listen — she  sings  !' 

*  This  is  the  title  of  those  selected  to  superintend  the  civil  affairs  of  a  village. 


ASTONISHING  FEATS  OF  JUGGLERY.  95 

" ;  Why  should  I  stay, — he  is  gone.  Light  of  my  eyes, — joy  of  my 
soul, — show  me  thy  dwelling  ! — 'Tis  not  here, — 'tis  far  away  in  the  Spirit 
Land.     Thither  he  is  gone.     Why  should  I  stay  ?     Let  me  go  !' 

"'Hear  you  that  ?' said  one.  'She  sings  her  death  song.  She  will 
throw  herself  from  the  clhT!' 

"  At  this,  a  dozen  warriors,  headed  by  him  who  claimed  her  hand,  started 
to  rescue  the  sweet  singer  from  intended  self-destruction. 

u  Again  she  chants : 

" '  Spirit  of  Death,  set  me  free !  Dreary  is  earth.  Joyless  is  time. 
Heart,  thou  art  desolate !  Wed  thee  another  ?  Nay.  Death  is  thy 
husband !  Farewell,  oh  sun !  Vain  is  your  light.  Farewell,  oh  earth ! 
Vain  are  your  plains,  your  flowers,  your  grassy  dales,  your  purling  streams, 
and  shady  groves  !  I  loved  you  once, — but  now  no  longer  love  !  Taste- 
less are  your  sweets, — cheerless  your  pleasures !  Thee  I  woo,  kind  Death ! 
Wahuspa  calls  me  hence.  In  life  we  were  one.  We'll  bask  together  in 
the  Spirit  Land.  Who  shall  sunder  there  ?  Short  is  my  pass  to  thee. 
Wahuspa,  I  come !' 

"  Upon  this  she  threw  herself  forward,  as  the  warriors  grasped  at  her  ; 
but,  leaving  her  robe  in  their  hands,  she  plunged  headlong  and  was  dashed 
to  pieces  among  the  rocks  below  !* 

"  E'er  since,  the  young  warrior  sighs  as  he  beholds  this  peak,  and  thinks 
of  the  maiden's  death  song." 

Conversing  upon  the  subject  of  medicine-men,  he  was  asked,  why  those 
individuals  are  so  highly  esteemed  by  his  people  ?     To  this  he  replied  : 

"  These  men  are  regarded  as  the  peculiar  favorites  of  the  Great  Spirit, 
to  whom  is  imparted  a  more  than  ordinary  share  of  His  power  and  wisdom. 
We  respect  them,  therefore,  in  proportion  to  the  abilities  they  receive, 
even  as  we  reverence  the  Great  Spirit." 

Here  the  question  was  proposed,  how  are  their  abilities  above  those  of 
others  ? 

"  The  Yellow-hair  counts  as  his  soldier  Tahtunga-mobellu, — a  man  of 
strong  medicine.  To  him  the  Great  Spirit  has  imparted  the  power  of  heal- 
ing, by  imbibing,  at  pleasure,  the  diseases  of  the  sick,  and  discharging  them 
from  his  eyes  and  nose  in  the  form  of  live  snakes.f 

"  On  a  time,  years  past,  our  young  men  went  to  the  Pawnees  and  came 
back  crying ;  for  sixteen  slain  of  their  number  were  left  to  grace  an  enemy's 
triumph. 

"  It  was  winter,  and  the  moans  of  men  and  maidens  mingled  with  the 
howling  winds.  Sorrow  beclouded  every  brow,  and  brave  looked  upon 
brave  as  if  to  enquire,  '  Who  shall  wipe  out  this  disgrace  ?'  Then  it  was  a 
medicine-chief  stood  up,  and  his  words  were  : 

"  '  Be  it  for  me  to  consult  the  Good  Spirit.' 

*  A  tale  which  went  the  rounds  of  the  public  prints,  several  years  since,  entitled 
the  "  Maiden's  Leap,"  affords  a  seeming  coincidence  in  the  mode  of  suicide  ;  but,  by- 
comparing  the  two,  the  reader  will  observe  a  broad  dissimilarity  of  detail.  In  pen 
ning  the  above  I  was  guided  solely  by  the  leading  incidents  as  related  in  my  hearing, 
r  Tahtunga-mobellu  receives  the  averment  of  all  his  villagers  in  proof  of  this 
strange  feat. 

9 


9Q  THE  MEDICINE-MAN. 

"  So  saying,  he  entered  his  lodge  alone,  nor  suffered  any  to  come  near 
during  the  long  fast  that  followed.  Darkness  had  closed  four  times  upon 
the  prairie,  and  the  sun  again  hastened  to  hide  behind  the  mountain  peaks, 
when,  calling  the  young  men  to  him,  the  medicine-man  said  : 

" ;  Fetch  me  now  meat  and  water,  with  a  new  robe,  and  bid  my  people 
come  near,  that  they  may  know  the  words  that  I  would  speak.' 

"  The  obedient  braves  made  haste  and  did  as  bidden.  Folding  the  robe, 
he  sat  upon  it  and  partook  of  the  refreshments  placed  before  him.  After 
eating  he  arose,  and  six  large  snakes,  crawling  from  the  robe  one  after 
another,  sprang  to  his  shoulder,  and,  whispering  in  his  ear,  vanished  from 
sight.     The  last  snake  had  just  told  his  message  when  the  chief  began : 

" '  The  Good  Spirit  wills  it,  that  we  remove  from  hence.  Three  moons 
being  dead,  let  three  hundred  warriors  return,  and  their  hearts  shall  be 
made  glad  with  medicine-dogs  and  the  scalps  of  enemies.' 

"  The  village  left,  and,  at  the  time  appointed,  the  warriors  returned.  They 
met  the  enemy, — fought,  and  were  victorious.  Sixty-three  scalps  and  one 
hundred  medicine-dogs  were  the  fruits  of  their  success." 

Before  dismissing  the  subject,  many  other  particulars  were  cited  in  proof 
of  the  extraordinary  abilities  of  different  medicine-men,  but  the  above  being 
the  most  remarkable,  I  have  thought  proper  to  pass  over  the  remainder  in 
silence. 

Note. — An  account,  still  more  wonderful  than  either  of  the  foregoing,  was  subse- 
quently narrated  in  my  hearing,  while  among  the  Arapaho  Indians ;  and,  without 
vouching  for  the  truth  of  all  its  particulars,  I  am  unwilling  to  withhold  it  from  the 
reader. 

The  performance  alluded  to  is  said  to  have  occurred,  some  three  years  since,  in  the 
presence  of  the  whole  Arapaho  village,  incredible  as  it  may  seem.  The  actor  was  a 
Riccaree  by  nation,  and  is  well  known  to  the  mountain  traders. 

In  the  centre  of  a  large  circle  of  men,  women,  and  children,  stood  the  subject  of 
the  appended  sketch,  stripped  to  the  waist,  as  the  gunner's  mark.  A  shot  perforated 
his  body  with  a  bullet,  which  entered  at  the  chest  and  emerged  from  the  opposite  side. 
He  instantly  fell,  and  the  blood  flowing  in  streams  dyed  the  grass  where  he  lay,  and 
everything  seemed  to  prefigure  the  reality  of  death. 

While  in  this  condition,  his  wife  approached  and  besprinkled  his  face  with  water ; 
soon  after  which  he  arose,  as  from  a  slumber — the  blood  still  pouring  from  him. 
Beplastering  his  wound  with  mud  before  and  behind,  the  blood  ceased  to  flow,  when 
he  commenced  yawning  and  stretching ;  in  a  few  minutes  the  plaster  was  removed  by 
a  pass  of  the  hand,  and  neither  blood,  nor  wound,  nor  the  sign  of  a  scratch  or  scar 
appeared  !  There  stood  the  self-restored  medicine-man,  before  the  wondering  throng, 
alive  and  well,  and  in  all  the  pride  of  his  strength ! 

He  then  brought  his  naked  son  into  the  ring,  a  lad  of  some  eight  years,  and,  stand- 
ing at  a  distance  of  several  yards,  bow  in  hand,  he  pierced  him  through  and  through, 
from  diaphragm  to  vertebrae,  at  three  successive  shots. 

The  boy  fell  dead,  to  every  appearance,  and  the  thick  blood  freely  coursed  from  his 
wounds. 

The  performer  then  clasped  the  body  in  his  arms  and  bore  it  around  the  ring  for 
the  inspection  of  all,  three  times  in  succession.  Upon  this  he  breathed  into  his  mouth 
and  nostrils,  and,  after  suffusing  his  face  with  water  and  covering  his  wounds  with  a 
mud  plaster,  he  commenced  brief  manipulations  upon  his  stomach,  which  soon  ended 
in  a  complete  recovery,  nor  left  a  single  trace  of  injury  about  him. 

Both  of  these  feats,  if  performed  as  said,  can  scarcely  admit  the  possibility  of  trick 
or  slight  of  hand,  anO  must  stand  as  the  most  astonishing  instances  of  jugglery  on 
lecord. 


97 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Food  for  horses.— Squaws  and  their  performances. — Dogs  and  dog-meat.— Return  to 
Fort. — Starvation.— Travel  by  guess. — Death  from  drinking.— Medicine-making.— 
A  burial. — Little  Lodge  and  the  French  trader. — A  speech  in  council. — Journey  to 
White  river. — High  winds  and  deep  snow. — Intense  sufferings  and  painful  results. 

A  large  grove  of  Cottonwood  near  us,  day  after  day  was  graced  by  groups 
of  village  squaws,  armed  with  axes,  for  the  procurement  of  horse  food. 

The  bark  of  this  tree  is  eaten  freely  by  both  horses  and  mules,  and 
answers  well  as  a  substitute  for  corn  or  oats.  Animals  will  thrive  upon  it 
in  a  remarkable  manner,  and  even  in  the  summer  months  they  prefer  it  to 
grass.     The  bark  of  red  elm  is  also  used  for  the  same  purpose. 

The  operations  of  the  squaws  at  such  times  contributed  greatly  to  our 
amusement.  Climbing  fearlessly  to  the  topmost  branch  of  the  highest 
tree,  they  would  there  lop  off  the  surrounding  boughs,  with  as  much  appa- 
rent ease  as  though  footed  upon  terra  jirma. 

And  then,  the  enormous  loads  they  would  carry,  lashed  together  with 
cords  and  slung  to  their  backs,  were  enough  to  make  a  giant  stagger. 
Dogs,  harnessed  to  travees,  had  their  part  to  perform,  and  ofttimes  were 
they  a  source  of  vexation  to  their  mistresses. 

A  squaw,  trudging  along  under  a  full  donkey-load  of  cottonwood,  and 
followed  by  a  squad  of  half-naked  children,  presented  a  spectacle  quite  in- 
teresting ;  but  this  was  rendered  rather  comical,  withal,  when  two  or  three 
draught-dogs  with  their  heavy-laden  travees  reluctantly  brought  up  the 
rear — every  now  and  then  lying  down  for  weariness,  or  squatting  to  loll 
and  gaze  at  their  companions. 

Now,  she  coaxes  and  caresses  to  urge  them  forward — they  still  delay. 
Then  she  turns  briskly  towards  them  with  a  stick, — get  out,  dogs  ! — 
"  Yierh !  Warktashne  ceicha,"  cries  the  squaw,  accompanying  her  denun- 
ciation with  blows,  and  away  go  the  yelping  troop  as  fast  as  legs  can  carry 
them. 

Dogs  are  the  necessary  appendage  of  every  Indian  lodge,  and  .generally 
form  an  equal  portion  of  the  village  population.  They  present  almost  all 
the  different  varieties  of  the  canine  species,  from  the  wolf  to  the  spaniel, 
and  from  the  spaniel  to  the  hairless  dog  of  Africa.  The  wolf,  however,  is 
predominant,  and,  taken  together,  they  more  assimilate  a  gang  of  wolves 
than  anything  else.  Indeed,  the  different  varieties  of  prairie  wolves  hold 
familiar  intercourse  with  the  village  dogs,  and  associate  with  them  on 
friendly  terms. 

The  species  used  for  draught,  is  a  large,  stout-built,  wolfish-looking 
creature,  of  the  Exquimaux  breed.  Trained  to  his  duties  in  early  life,  he 
is  generally  both  submissive  and  tractable.  The  drudgery  of  a  squaw, 
which  is  at  all  times  onerous,  without  his  ready  aid  would  prove  past 
endurance. 


98  MEDICINE-  MAKING. 

But  these  dogs  are  also  useful  in  another  respect.  Their  flesh  fur- 
nishes an  article  highly  esteemed  for  food,  and  which  almost  invariably 
graces  the  soldiers'  feast  and  every  other  scene  of  conviviality.  However 
much  the  squamishness  of  the  reader  may  revolt  at  the  suggestion,  justice 
impels  me  to  say,  the  flesh  of  a  fat  Indian  dog,  suitably  cooked,  is  not  infe- 
rior to  fresh  pork  ;  and,  by  placing  side  by  side  select  parts  of  the  two,  it 
would  be  no  easy  task  even  for  a  good  judge  to  tell  the  difference,  by  either 
looks  or  taste,  unless  he  were  previously  informed. 

Towards  the  last  of  January,  buffalo  having  left  the  vicinity,  the  Indians, 
as  a  necessary  consequence,  were  compelled  to  move.  A  great  scarcity 
of  provisions  prevailed  among  them,  and  we  ourselves  were  scarcely  better 
off  than  they. 

Our  stock  in  hand  was  nearly  exhausted,  and  an  abandonment  of  the 

post  became  absolutely  necessary, — a  thing,  however,  which  could  not  be 

.  performed  without  a  fresh  supply  of  horses  and  cattle  from  Fort  Platte. 

For  this  purpose,  I  volunteered  my  services,  and,  accompanied  by  two 

engages,  was  promptly  under  way. 

A  few  hours'  ride  brought  us  to  the  head  of  White  river,  where,  con- 
suming at  a  meal  our  scanty  eatables,  from  that  onward  we  were  left  en- 
tirely destitute. 

This  was  the  first  occasion  subjecting  me  to  the  pains  of  hunger  for  so 
long  a  time.  The  second  day  I  experienced  the  greatest  annoyance,  and 
then  it  was  I  felt  some  of  the  realities  of  starvation.  The  third  day,  how- 
ever, I  awoke  in  the  morning  scarcely  thinking  of  breakfast.  In  fact, 
my  appetite  seemed  quite  passive,  and  the  only  sensation  I  felt  was  a 
kind  of  weakness  and  lassitude,  evincing  the  lack  of  proper  nourish- 
ment. 

The  morning  was  cloudy  and  threatening.  Soon  after  leaving  camp, 
snow  began  to  fall,  thick  and  fast.  The  day  proved  so  dark,  objects  were 
indiscernible  at  the  distance  of  a  hundred  yards  in  advance.  Travelling, 
as  we  were,  over  a  trackless  prairie,  with  nothing  to  guide  us  but  the  wind 
and  the  position  of  the  grass,  it  was  by  the  merest  accident  we  reached 
our  destination  a  few  minutes  before  nightfall. 

Our  sudden  appearance  was  the  occasion  of  general  surprise  to  the 
Fort  hands,  and,  after  a  brief  explanation,  we  began  to  make  amends  for 
previous  abstinence. 

At  first,  a  few  mouthfuls  sufficed, — but  soon  I  again  felt  hungry  and 
could  be  satisfied  only  with  a  double  quantity, — in  an  equally  short  time 
my  stomach  demanded  a  still  further  supply,  and,  by  the  next  day,  hunger 
became  so  keen  it  seemed  almost  insatiable.  An  interval  of  three  or  four 
weeks  was  requisite  bofore  it  assumed  its  wonted  tone. 

During  our  stay  here,  an  Indian  family,  occupying  one  of  the  Fort 
rooms,  indulged  themselves  in  a  drunken  spree. 

Having  procured  a  quantity  of  the  American  Fur  Company's  liquor,  the 
effects  of  their  lavish  potations  soon  became  manifest  to  all  within 
hearing  distance.  But  the  din  of  drunken  revelry  erelong  assumed  the  wail 
of  mourning  and  sorrow. 

Hearing  the  strange  commotion,  I  entered  the  room  to  ascertain  the 


A  BURIAL.  99 

cause.  There  lay,  helpless  upon  the  floor,  and  apparently  at  the  point  01 
death,  a  squaw  of  some  eighteen  years ; — she,  in  her  eagerness,  had  swal- 
lowed nearly  a  pint  of  the  vile  stuff,  undiluted,  and  now  experienced  its 
dreadful  consequences. 

But  most  conspicuous  in  the  throng  was  a  large,  obese,  cross-eyed  Indian, 
earnestly  engaged  in  his  medicine-performances  for  her  recovery. 

A  breech-cloth  was  his  sole  garb,  as,  with  eyes  half  strained  from  their 
sockets  and  volving  in  a  strange  unearthly  manner,  he  stood,  first  upon  one 
foot  and  then  upon  the  other,  alternately — then,  stamping  the  floor  as  if  to 
crush  it  through,  and  meanwhile,  grunting,  screeching,  and  bellowing,  and 
beating  his  breast  or  the  wall  with  his  clenched  fists, — then,  with  inhaled 
breath,  swelling  like  a  puff-ball,  he  would  bend  over  his  patient  and  apply 
sugescents  to  her  mouth,  throat  and  breast. 

This  done,  sundry  ejections  of  saliva  prepared  his  mouth  for  the  recep- 
tion of  an  ample  draught  of  water,  with  which  he  bespatted  her  face  and 
forehead. 

But  yet,  all  these  extraordinary  efforts  failed  to  produce  their  designed 
effect.  The  poor  squaw  grew  weaker,  and  her  breathing  became  fainter 
and  more  difficult. 

Some  powerful  restorative  must  be  adopted,  or  she  will  soon  be  beyond 
the  reach  of  medicine, — so  thought  the  officiating  doctor ;  or,  at  least,  his 
succeeding  antics  indicated  that  such  were  the  cogitations  of  his  mind. 
Standing  for  a  minute  or  two  in  the  attitude  of  reflection,  an  idea  stuck 
him.     Ah,  he  has  it  now  !     This  cannot  fail. 

Snatching  a  butcher-knife  and  hastening  with  it  to  the  fire,  he  heats  the 
point  to  redness  upon  the  coals, — then  balancing  it  between  his  teeth,  at  a 
toss  he  flings  it  vaulting  above  his  head  and  backward  upon  the  floor, — 
then,  re-catching  it,  he  goes  through  the  performance  a  second  and  a  third 
time. 

Thus  premised,  he  addresses  himself  with  threefold  energy  to  the  gro- 
tesque and  uncouth  manoeuvres  before  described.  If  he  had  stamped  his 
feet,  he  now  stamps  them  with  a  determination  hitherto  unknown ; — if  he 
had  thumped  his  breast  and  beat  the  walls,  he  now  thumps  and  beats  as  if 
each  blow  were  intended  to  prostrate  the  object  against  which  it  was  directed, 
— if  he  had  grunted,  screeched,  and  bellowed,  he  now  grunts,  screeches, 
bellows,  and  yells,  till  the  very  room  quakes  with  the  reverberations  of 
domoniac  noise ; — if  he  had  gagged,  puffed,  and  swelled,  he  now  gags, 
puffs,  and  swells,  as  if  he  would  explode  from  the  potency  of  his  extraor- 
dinary inflations. 

Then,  with  an  air  of  confidence,  he  hies  to  his  patient  and  commences 
a  process  of  manipulation  from  her  breast  downwards,  and  reverse, — and 
then  again  he  repeats  his  previous  operations,  with  scrnpulous  exactness 
and  unsparing  effort,  in  all  their  varie  i  minutiae. 

But,  alas  for  the  medicine-man ! — the  squaw  died,  despite  the  omnipo- 
tence of  his  skill ! 

Then  was  enacted  another  such  a  scene  of  piteous  wailing,  as  Indians 
alone  have  in  requisition,  as  vent  for  their  grief. 

After  the  usual  preliminaries,  the  corpse  of  the  deceased  was  placed 
upon  a  scaffold  beside  that  of  Susu-ceicha,  the  old  chief  of  whom  I  have 
spoken  in  a  former  chapter.     Each  member  of  the  bereaved  family  depoa 

9* 


100  SPEECH  OF  LITTLE  LODGE. 

ited  a  tuft  of  hair  in  the  sack  containing  the  meat  and  trinkets  placed 
beneath  her  head.  A  smooth  piece  of  cottonwood  slab  was  then  affixed  to 
the  scaffold,  upon  which  were  traced,  in  vermilion,  certain  quadrangular 
characters  of  unknown  meaning, — answering  well  to  the  idea  of  an 
inscription  of  name  and  age. 

A  difficulty  occurred  about  this  time  between  a  trader  of  the  American 
Fur  Company  and  an  Oglalla  chief,  known  as  Little  Lodge. 

The  latter  had  become  crazed  by  liquor,  and,  being  rather  turbulent,  was 
put  out  of  the  Fort.  But,  effecting  a  re-entrance,  he  again  proved  equally 
annoying.  The  trader  then  commenced  quarrelling  with  him,  and  under- 
took to  seize  his  arms.  This  the  Indian  resisted,  when  the  trader  discharg- 
ed a  pistol  at  him,  but  missed  his  object.  Here  was  a  deadly  affront,  that 
blood  alone  could  wipe  away. 

With  great  difficulty,  the  Indian  was  finally  disarmed  and  bound.  He 
was  thus  secured  till  the  next  day,  when  he  was  liberated ; — still,  however, 
he  muttered  threats  of  revenge. 

Two  or  three  weeks  subsequently,  Little  Lodge  was  present  at  a  soldiers' 
feast,  and  the  question  of  war  with  the  Americans  was  a  prominent  sub- 
ject of  consideration. 

Several  speeches  were  made,  both  for  and  against  it ;  and,  though  the 
prevailing  sentiment  seemed  to  be  of  an  adverse  kind,  it  scarcely  required 
a  half  dozen  words  to  turn  the  scale  upon  either  side. 

Little  Lodge  arose  to  address  the  council,  and  the  friends  of  the  whites, 
knowing  the  vengeful  spirit  that  yet  rankled  in  his  bosom  at  the  remem- 
brance of  his  recent  injuries,  began  to  fear  for  the  continuance  of  peace. 

Contrary  to  the  universal  expectation,  he  contended  for  its  maintenance. 
"  But,"  said  he,  "  Little  Lodge  has  grievances  of  his  own,  and  they  call  for 
redress. 

"  There  is  one  among  the  pale-faces  whose  blood  must  wash  away  the 
foul  blot  that  rests  upon  the  name  of  Little  Lodge.  I  know  him  well. 
He  is  not  a  Long-knife.  .  The  Long-knives  are  all  the  friends  of  Little 
Lodge.  Let  the  Lacota  take  them  by  the  hand  whenever  he  meets  them 
upon  the  prairie.  It  is  good  that  he  do  so.  They  are  very  many  and  ex- 
ceedingly rich.  Their  country  is  a  large  one,  and  far  away  towards  the 
sunrising.  They,  too,  are  strong  for  war.  They  have  big  hearts  and 
strong,  and  they  are  very  good  to  the  red  man.  They  bring  to  him  many 
good  things ;  why,  then,  should  the  Lacota  hate  the  Long-knife  ? 

"  Do  my  brothers  ask  who  it  is  of  the  pale-faces  the  Little  Lodge  would 
remove  from  the  light  of  day  ?  Know,  then,  he  is  not  of  the  Long-knives, 
— he  is  of  the  Warceichas,  (Frenchmen.)  The  Warceichas  are  not  Long- 
knives  ! 

44  And,  do  my  brothers  ask,  who  are  the  Warceichas  ? 

"  Aye,  who  are  they,?  Little  Lodge  cannot  tell ; — who  of  all  the  Laco- 
tas  can  ?  Who  ever  heard  of  the  country  of  these  men  ?  No  one.  They 
have  no  country, — they  are  no  people.  They  are  are  as  the  wandering 
dogs  *  that  infest  our  hunting  grounds  and  prey  upon  the  game  formed  by 
the  Good  Spirit  for  the  red  man's  sustenance.     They  steal  into  the  land  of 

*  Chunka-monct,  or  travelling  dogs,  is  the  liame  applied  by  these  Indians  to  wolves. 


INTENSE  SUFFERING.  101 

the  red  man,  and  sneak  around  from  place  to  place ; — for  they  have  no 
home  ;  they  have  no  country  ;  they  are  no  people  ! 

"  One  of  these  it  was  who  bade  the  medicine-iron  speak  its  death-word 
to  Little  Lodge,  and  sought  to  spill  the  blood  of  a  Lacota  brave,  after  that 
he  had  made  him  a  fool  by  means  of  his  thickened  *  fire-water ! 

"  Should  Little  Lodge  fall  by  the  hand  of  the  Warceicha  ?  He  might 
fall  by  the  hand  of  a  Long-knife,  and  the  nation  would  honor  his  memory, 
— but  never,  should  the  Warceicha  bring  him  low  ! 

"  Then,  is  it  not  good  that  Little  Lodge  should  be  avenged  upon  this  lost 
dog — this  outcast  of  the  world — that  the  whelps  of  a  motherless  breed  may 
cease  to  insult  and  wrong  the  Lacotas  ?  Which  of  all  my  brothers  will 
say  nay  ?" 

The  address  was  received  in  silence,— no  one  presuming  to  oppose  an 
answer  to  its  sentiments.  Whether  the  speaker  executed  his  threats  of 
vengeance  against  the  offending  trader,  I  am  yet  unadvised. 

Having  remained  two  nights  and  a  day  at  Fort  Platte,  we  again  started 
for  White  river,  taking  with  us  three  yoke  of  oxen  and  several  horses,  one 
of  which  was  laden  with  dried  meat. 

The  snow  greatly  retarded  our  progress  from  the  first,  and  so  obscured 
the  trail  we  were  compelled  to  travel  mostly  by  guess.  The  sun,  too,  was 
shut  out  by  a  tenebrous  atmosphere,  and  we  could  judge  of  our  proper 
course  only  by  observing  the  movements  of  the  clouds,f  with  the  general 
range  of  the  hills  and  ravines,  or  inclination  of  the  grass. 

The  broad  expanse  of  unbroken  snow  lying  from  Rawhide  to  L'eau-qui- 
court,  brought  a  chill  tremor  with  the  thought  of  crossing  it.  Yet,  go  we 
must !  It  was  no  time  to  falter  when  the  fate  of  others,  perhaps,  depend- 
ed upon  our  prompt  advance. 

But  the  effort  was  no  child's  play.  If  we  had  experienced  a  tedious 
time  during  a  former  journey,  what  could  we  expect  now  ?  The  whole 
interval  of  thirty  miles  was  covered  with  snow,  that  grew  deeper  and  deep- 
er as  we  proceeded.  Every  hollow  and  ravine  was  filled,  and  the  route 
otherwise  seriously  impeded  by  huge  drifts  and  embankments. 

We  were  frequently  compelled  to  break  foot-paths  for  our  animals,  and 
ever  and  anon  pull  them  by  main  strength  from  the  deep  pitfalls  into  which 
they  would  plunge  and  become  almost  lost  to  view.  In  this  manner  our 
progress  was  slow, — the  average  depth  through  which  we  waded  being 
but  little  less  than  two  feet. 

The  rising  of  a  fierce  head  wind,  piercing  as  the  blasts  of  Nova  Zem- 
bla,  drove  the  snow  into  our  faces  with  mad  fury  and  added  immeasurably 
to  our  sufferings. 

*  Allusion  is  here  made  to  the  drugged  liquor  supposed  to  have  been  palmed  upon 
him  by  the  trader. 

t  The  idea  of  directing  our  course  by  the  movements  of  the  clouds  is  doubtless  a 
novel  suggestion  to  most  readers ;  but  its  philosophy  will  be  readily  comprehended  by 
a  bare  mention  of  the  fact,  that  the  winds  of  these  regions  almost  invariably  blow 
from  a  west-southwest  point ;  and,  as  they  are  usually  high,  it  is  no  very  extraordi- 
nary performance  to  calculate  the  bearing  of  north  or  south,  even  in  the  most  obscure 
weather. 


102  A  HORRIBLE  CONDITION. 

In  this  manner  night  shut  down  upon  us,  while  yet  far  distant  from  any 
camping-place.  And,  such  a  night !  Oh,  storms  and  deadly  w  inter,  foul 
and  fierce  !  how  swept  ye  "  through  the  darkened  sky,"  and  with  your 
awful  howlings  rendered  "  the  savage  wilderness  more  wild  !" 

The  creeping  cold  on  every  nerve  played  freely,  in  haste  to  sting  our 
vitals,  and  lay  us  each 


" along  the  snows  a  stiffen'd  corse, 

Stretch'd  out  and  bleaching  in  the  northern  blast!" 

The  impress  of  this  event  can  never  be  effaced  from  my  mind.  It  was 
midnight  ere  we  arrived  at  the  limberless  L'eau-qui-court  and  struck 
camp.  Our  animals  needed  water,  but  we  had  neither  axe  or  tomahawk 
to  cut  through  the  thick  ice  with  which  the  creek  was  coated.  As  a 
remedy  for  this  lack,  all  three  of  us  advanced  upon  it,  and,  by  our  united 
efforts  at  jumping,  caused  a  lengthy  fissure  with  gentle  escarpments  to- 
wards each  shore,  that  left  midway  an  ample  pool. 

Having  driven  the  cattle  to  this,  in  their  clumsy  movements  upon  the 
ice,  two  of  them  fell,  and,  sliding  down  the  inclined  plain,  lay  struggling  in 
the  freezing  water,  unable  to  rise.  Our  only  resort  was  to  drag  them  to 
the  shore  by  main  strength  ;  for,  left  in  their  then  condition,  they  must  have 
frozen  to  death  in  a  very  short  time. 

Here  commenced  a  series  of  pulling  and  wrenching,  that,  in  our  chilled 
and  exhausted  state,  we  were  ill-prepared  to  endure. 

For  awhile  our  efforts  proved  vain.  A  backward-slide  succeeded  each 
headway-pull,  and  vexed  us  with  useless  toil.  Thus  we  worried  for  nearly 
three  hours  in  water  knee-deep ! 

At  length,  having  procured  a  rope  and  fastened  one  end  to  their  horns 
and  the  other  around  a  pointed  rock  upon  the  shore,  and  gathering  the  slack 
at  each  successive  thrust,  we  finally  succeeded  in  placing  them  both,  one 
after  the  other,  upon  dry  land. 

But,  now  we  were  in  a  thrice  sorry  plight.  Not  a  stick  of  wood  could 
be  raised,  far  or  near,  of  which  to  build  a  fire,  and  bois  de  vache,  the  great 
substitute  of  the  prairies,  was  too  deeply  covered  with  snow  for  procure- 
ment. Our  clothes,  wet  to  the  waist,  were  frozen  upon  us,  and  the  merci- 
less wind,  with  stinging  keenness,  pierced  us  through  at  every  breath,  and 
stood  us  forth  as  living  monuments  of  ice ! 

Could  men  of  iron  endure  such  incomprehensible  hardships, — such  in- 
expressible sufferings  ?     Yet  we  survived  them  all ! 

Spreading  a  few  robes  upon  the  snow,  we  lay  down  for  sleep,  dinnerless 
and  supperless.  I  was  now  seized  with  a  chill,  which  lasted  for  two  hours 
or  more ;  and  so  violent  were  its  actions  I  could  scarcely  keep  the  covering 
upon  me. 

My  companions,  however,  though  not  similarly  afflicted,  were  worse  off 
than  myself.  One  had  his  hands  and  ears  frozen,  and  the  other  his  hands 
and  feet, — the  painful  consequences  of  which,  as  the  frost  began  to  yield  to 
the  influence  of  generated  warmth,  were  too  apparent  in  their  groans  and 
writhings. 

Morning  at  length  came,  and  the  sun  arose  bright  and  clear     The 


HORSE  ATTACKED  BY  WOLVES.— Page  103. 


HORSES  DEVOURED  BY  WOLVES.  103 

winds  had  ceased  their  ragings,  and  a  clement  atmosphere  seemed  pouring 
upon  us  the  balm  of  sympathy  for  miseries  so  recently  endured. 

But  their  direful  effects  were  not  thus  easily  eradicated.  The  feet  of  one 
poor  fellow  were  so  badly  frozen,  it  was  three  months  before  he  entirely 
recovered ;  while  another  lost  a  portion  of  one  of  his  ears.  As  for  myself, 
a  severe  cold  settled  in  my  teeth,  producing  an  intensely  painful  ache 
and  swoollen  face,  that  continued  for  eight  or  ten  days. 

It  seems  almost  miraculous  that  we  should  have  escaped  so  easily,  and 
often,  even  after  so  long  an  interval,  I  shudder  at  the  recollection  of  this 
anguishing  scene. 

Two  days  subsequently  we  reached  our  destination,  and  found  all  things 
pretty  much  in  statu  quo. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Another  drunken  spree.— Hordes  devoured  by  wolves. — An  upset. — A  blowing  up.— 
Daring  feat  of  wolves.— A  girl  offered  for  liquor. —Winter  on  the  Platte.— Boat 
building. — Hunting  expedition. — Journey  up  the  Platte. — Island  camp. — Narrow 
escape. — Snow  storm  — Warm  Spring. — Pass  of  the  Platte  into  the  prairies. — A 
valley. — Bitter  Cottonwood. — Indian  forts. — Wild  fruit. — Root-digging. — Cherry 
tea  and  its  uses. — Geology  of  the  country. — Soils,  grasses,  herbs,  plants,  and  purity 
of  atmosphere. — Horse-shoe  creek. — A  panther. — Prairie  dogs  and  their  peculiar- 
ities. 

Our  intended  evacuation  of  the  post  was  posponed  till  the  week  follow- 
ing, and,  meanwhile,  the  few  customers,  that  still  hung  on,  were  careful  to 
improve  the  passing  opportunity  of  steeping  their  senses  in  liquor. 

Another  general  drunken  frolic  was  the  consequence,  ending  as  usual  in 
a  fight  and  still  further  attempts  upon  the  life  of  our  trader. 

Soon  after  this,  our  catalogue  of  disasters  was  increased  by  the  death 
of  two  horses,  which  fell  a  prey  to  wolves. 

The  case  was  an  aggravated  one,  and  provoking  in  the  extreme.  Both 
of  them  were  "  buffalo  horses,"  and  the  fleetest  and  most  valuable  in  our 
possession, — in  fact,  they  were  the  only  ones  of  which  we  ventured  to  boast. 
We  had  others  of  little  worth,  so  poor  and  feeble  they  could  oppose  none 
resistance  to  magpies,*  and  much  less  to  the  rapacity  of  wolves. 

But,  no.  These  blood-thirsty  depredators,  desirous  of  a  feast  of  fat 
things,  were  determined  to  have  it,  reckless  of  cost, — and,  the  encrimsoned 
tracks,  coursing  the  snowy  plain  in  every  direction  where  passed  the  swift 

♦The  magpie  of  the  mountains  is  the  torment  of  all  sore-backed  horses,  particularly 
during  the  winter  season.  Despite  opposition  it  will  feed  upon  their  skinless  flesh, 
often  to  the  very  bones. 


104  BOAT  BUILDING. 

chargers  in  vain  effort  to  escape,  proved  that  they  won  their  supper  at  an 
enormous  expense  of  leg-wear. 

Feb.  4th.  All  things  being  in  readiness,  we  bade  farewell  to  winter- 
quarters,  and  commenced  our  journey. 

Crossing  the  river  soon  after,  on  ascending  the  opposite  bank,  a  cart  up- 
set and  deposited  its  contents  in  the  water.  The  load,  consisting  of  robes 
and  powder,  became  thoroughly  saturated,  and  we  were  employed  a  full 
hour  in  fishing  it  out.  The  stream  being  waist-deep  and  filled  with  floating 
ice,  amid  which  we  were  forced  to  plunge,  our  task  was  far  from  a 
pleasant  one. 

The  freight  needed  drying,  and  we  were  detained  two  days  for  that  pur- 
pose. Meanwhile  the  drenched  powder  was  subjected  to  the  experiments 
of  one  of  our  engages.  Having  spread  it  to  dry,  he  was  carelessly  bend- 
ing over  it,  when  a  spark  from  the  camp-fire  struck  the  ready  ignitible ; 
a  sprightly  flash,  enveloping  the  luckless  wight  in  a  sheet  or  flame,  told 
the  instant  result.     Springing  to  his  feet,  he  exclaimed : 

"  Bless  my  stars  !     That's  what  I  call  regular  blowing  up  /" 

"  Aye,  aye,  my  lad,"  says  one.  "  You  was  always  a  bright  youth, — but 
never  before  did  you  appear  half  so  brilliant.     'Tis  a  fact,  or  I'm  a  liar !" 

Presuming  our  course,  the  second  night  following  was  passed  at  a  pool 
of  water  between  L'eau-qui-court  and  Rawhide.  Here,  having  placed  my 
shoes  under  my  head  for  better  security,  I  slept  soundly  till  morning. 
Rising  at  an  early  hour,  I  turned  for  them,  but  one  was  missing,  and,  after 
searching  far  and  near,  it  could  not  be  found. 

The  mystery  of  its  disappearance,  however,  was  fully  solved  by  the  nu- 
merous wolf  tracks  that  appeared  on  all  sides ; — some  straggling  marauder 
had  stolen  it  during  the  night,  and  quietly  deposited  it  in  his  empty  stomach 
as  the  substitute  for  an  early  breakfast. 

Our  camp  at  Rawhide  was  beset  with  a  throng  of  Indians  from  an  adjoin- 
ing village,  who,  as  usual,  were  loudly  clamorous  and  importunate  for  liquor. 
A  beautiful  young  squaw  was  brought  in,  to  exchange  for  that  article. 
However,  their  solicitations  were  of  no  avail  and  their  vitiated  appetites 
went  unappeased. 

On  the  12th  of  February  we  reached  the  Fort,  and  thus  ended  our  disas- 
trous and  eventful  expedition. 

Winter  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Platte  had  been  remarkably  mild, 
and  at  no  time  during  the  season  had  the  snow  remained  upon  the  ground 
to  exceed  a  day.  Vegetation,  even  thus  early,  was  beginning  to  put  forth, 
and  bring  to  view  the  beauty  and  loveliness  of  spring. 

Preparations  were  already  on  foot  for  building  a  boat  for  the  transporta- 
tion of  furs  to  the  States  by  way  of  the  river,  and,  at  the  solicitation  of 
of  the  company's  agent,  I  reluctantly  consented  to  take  charge  of  it  during 
the  voyage, — thus  deferring,  for  the  present,  my  design  of  visiting  Oregon. 
The  timber  used  in  its  construction  was  procured  from  the  neighboring 
pine  hills,  and  prepared  by  a  laborious  process  of  hand,  with  the  aid  of  a 
pit-saw.     The  ribs  and  other  timber  were  obtained  i-rom  an  ash  grove,  a  few 


A  PETTY  LOOKING  SET.  105 

miles  above  the  Fort,  and  three  men  were  busily  engaged  in  putting  all 
things  in  readiness  for  the  expected  spring  rise — an  event  which  seldom 
occurs  before  the  15th  of  May. 

The  winter's  trade  having  closed,  an  interval  of  nearly  three  months' 
leisure  followed,  which  resulted  in  a  hunting  expedition  that  included  my- 
self with  six  others. 

Anxious  to  explore  the  mountains,  we  set  our  faces  westward  ;  but,  owing 
to  the  reported  closeness  of  game  en  route,  very  little  provisions  were 
taken  with  other  necessaries. 

Keeping  the  river  bottom  by  a  rocky  ridge  for  some  ten  miles,  our  course 
led  through  several  beautiful  groves  and  broad  stretches  of  rich  alluvial 
soil,  that  presented  an  encouraging  prospect  to  agriculturists.  After  a 
few  hours'  ride  we  came  to  a  point  at  which  the  stream  sweeps  round  the 
ridge's  base,  causing  a  vertical  wall  of  lias  and  sandstone  nearly  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  high. 

Abandoning  the  river  bottom  at  this  place,  we  ascended  to  the  high 
prairie  on  the  left,  where  an  interesting  plateau  greeted  us,  extending  far 
away  to  the  south  and  west,  till  it  became  lost  in  the  neighboring  moun- 
tains. Continuing  on  a  short  distance,  we  again  struck  the  river,  at  a 
small  opening  between  two  hills,  and  made  camp  in  a  grove  of  willows. 

Opposite  this  place  is  a  large  heavily  wooded  island,  of  a  blueish  loam, 
upon  a  subtratum  of  fossiliferous  limestone. 

Above  and  below  are  lofty  walls  of  limestone  and  ferrugiuous  rock,  that, 
in  many  places,  overhang  the  sweeping  waters  at  their  base,  and  form  roof- 
age beneath  which  swarms  of  prairie  swallows  are  wont  to  raise  their 
annual  broods. 

Consuming  our  scanty  supply  of  provisions  at  a  single  meal,  each  soon 
disposed  of  himself  for  the  night.  A  mild  atmosphere  invited  to  repose  ; 
and,  enwrapped  in  a  single  robe,  my  troubles  were  speedily  forgotten  in  a 
quiet  slumber.  . 

But  during  the  succeeding  interval,  a  change  came  over  the  spirit  of 
my  dream.  I  was  suddenly  aroused  by  the  crash  of  a  huge  tree,  that  fell 
across  my  bed,  and  only  a  providential  curve  arching  upwards,  had  saved  me 
from  instant  death ! 

"  Hurra,  for  me !"  I  exclaimed,  as  my  startled  campmates  came  cluster- 
ing around, — "  It's  better  to  be  born  lucky  than  rich!" 

The  wind  was  now  blowing  a  perfect  hurricane,  and  the  trees  tottered 
around  us,  threatening  every  moment  to  fall.  In  an  hour  or  so,  however, 
the  gale  abating,  we  again  addressed  ourselves  to  sleep. 

Towards  morning,  feeling  a  disagreeable  warmth  and  superincumbent 
pressure,  I  was  induced  to  uncover,  and,  looking  out,  the  cause  was  ex- 
plained by  the  presence  of  a  dense  snow  that  covered  the  ground  to  the 
depth  of.  several  inches.  The  fallen  snow  was  melting  fast,  and  that  yet 
descending  soon  merged  into  rain. 

A  pretty-looking  set  of  fellows  were  we,  in  a  comparatively  short  time  ! 
— blankets,  robes,  clothes,  and  every  article  about  us  were  wet — soaking 
wet — and  covered  with  mud.  It  required  an  effort  of  several  hours  to 
kindle  a  fire,  so  thoroughly  saturated  was  everything  with  water ; — thus 
done,  we  all  gathered  around  it,  and — such  a  group ! — Oh,  the  beauties 
of  mud  and  water !     A  painter  might  describe  it, — I  cannot. 


106  INDIAN  FORTS. 

If  the  reader  imagines  we  felt  in  a  superlative  good  humor  while  stand- 
ing there,  breakfastless,  shivering,  and  wet,  he  has  conjured  up  a  strange 
illusion. 

It  having  ceased  raining  about  mid-day,  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon 
we  enjoyed  a  beautiful  sunshine  for  a  couple  of  hours,  which  enabled  us 
to  assume  a  better  travelling  plight ;  and,  favored  by  a  mild  atmosphere  and 
clear  sky,  on  the  following  morning,  we  again  resumed  our  course. 

Striking  upon  an  Indian  trail,  we  bore  leftward  from  the  river,  and,  in  a 
short  ride,  came  to  a  sand  creek  shut  in  by  precipitous  embankments  of 
limestone,  through  which  our  road  led  by  a  narrow  defile.  A  transparent 
spring  gushes  from  the  right  bank  with  considerable  noise,  furnishing  a 
beautiful  streamlet  to  its  hitherto  high  bed,  which  is  known  as  the  "  Warm 
Spring." 

A  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  the  Platte  makes  its 
final  egress  from  the  Black  Hills  through  a  tunnel-like  pass,  walled  in 
upon  either  side  by  precipitous  cliffs  of  red-sandstone  and  siliceous  lime- 
stone, sometimes  overhanging  the  stream  at  their  base,  and  towering  to  a 
height  of  from  three  to  five  hundred  feet.  The  high  table  lands  consti- 
tuting these  immense  walls,  are  surmounted  with  shrubs  and  occasional 
pines  and  cedars,  that  unite  to  present  a  wild  romantic  scenery. 

Continuing  on,  and  bearing  still  further  leftward,  we  passed  a  beautiful 
valley,  graced  with  several  springs  and  a  small  grove  of  cottonwood,  with 
cherry  and  plum  bushes,  near  which  rose  a  conical  hill  abundant  in  fos- 
siliferous  limestone  of  a  snowy  whiteness.  A  diminutive  pond  in  the  vicin- 
ity afforded  several  varieties  of  the  testaceous  order,  both  bivalves  and 
univalves — a  circumstance  quite  rare  among  mountain  waters.  The  soil 
of  this  locality  appeared  to  be  a  compound  of  clay,  sand,  and  marl,  and 
well  adapted  to  agriculture. 

Parsing  this,  our  course  led  over  a  gently  undulating  prairie,  bounded 
on  either  side  by  pine  hills.  The  soil  was  generally  of  a  reddish,  sandy 
loam,  intermixed  with  clay ;  and,  judging  from  the  long  dry  grass  of  the 
preceding  year,  it  was  both  rich  and  productive. 

Towards  night  we  arrived  at  a  large  creek,  bearing  the  name  of  Bitter 
Cottonwood, — so  called  from  the  abundance  of  that  species  of  poplar  in 
its  valley. 

These  trees  generally  grow  very  tall  and  straight  with  expansive  tops, 
— averaging  from  twenty-five  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height. 

The  creek  occupies  a  wide,  sandy  bed,  over  which  the  water  is  dispersed 
in  several  shallow  streams.  The  valley  is  broad  and  of  a  jetty,  vegetable 
mould,  variegated,  at  intervals,  with  layers  of  gravel  deposited  by  aqueous 
currents,  and  is  bounded  on  both  sides  by  abrupt  acclivities  leading  to  the 
beautiful  plateaux  and  lofty  pine  hills  so  abundant  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  remains  of  three  or  four  Indian  forts  were  situated  adjoining  the 
place  selected  for  our  encampment.  These  were  built  of  logs,  arranged 
in  a  circular  form,  and  enclosing  an  area,  sufficient  for  the  acccmmodation 
of  twenty  or  thirty  warriors.  The  walls  were  generally  about  six  feet 
high,  with  single  entrances,  and  apertures  in  various  places  for  the  use  of 
their  defenders  in  case  of  attack. 

All  Indian  forts,  meeting  my  observation  in  subsequent  travels,  with  one  or 
two  exceptions,  were  of  the  same  general  description.     Some,  however 


CliEitRY  TEA.  107 

are  almost  entirely  roofed  in  by  an  arched  covering,  presenting  a  coniform 
appearance.  The  only  exception  to  this  mode  of  fortification  was  of  a 
quadrangular  form,  and  in  a  solitary  instance  the  materials  were  of  rock. 
The  latter  structure  I  shall  take  occasion  to  describe  in  due  course. 

The  valley  gave  abundant  indication  of  wild  fruit  at  the  proper  season, — 
such  as  plums,  cherries,  currants,  goose  and  buffalo  berries,  (shepherdia 
argentea.)  The  signs  of  game  were  very  plentiful,  particularly  elk  ; — 
after  camp  two  or  three  of  us  sallied  out  with  our  rifles  in  quest  of  these 
wary  animals,  while  others  were  busily  employed  in  digging  for  roots  to 
appease  the  gnawing  of  appetite,  which  began  to  make  itself  most  sensibly 
felt  by  all. 

About  sundown  both  parties  came  in, — the  hunters  quite  dispirited,  not 
having  seen  any  thing  in  the  shape  of  elk  or  other  game, — but  the  root 
diggers  had  been  more  lucky  and  brought  with  them  a  small  supply  of 
nutritious  aliments,  which  were  divided  equally  among  the  company, — and, 
through  scarcely  a  half  dozen  mouthfuls  were  apportioned  to  each,  they 
answered,  to  some  extent,  the  designed  object. 

These  roots  consisted  of  two  varieties,  viz :  pomme  blanc,  and  com- 
mote. 

The  pomme  Mane,  or  white  apple,  is  a  native  of  the  prairies  and  moun- 
tains, oval  shaped  and  about  three  and  a  half  inches  in  circumference.  It 
is  encased  in  a  thin  fibrous  tegument,  which,  when  removed,  exposes  an 
interior  of  white  pulpy  substance,  much  like  a  turnip  in  taste.  It  gen- 
erally grows  at  a  depth  of  three  or  four  inches,  in  the  soil  of  hill-sides 
and  plateaux,  where  is  found  a  reddish  clay  loam  abundant  in  fragmentary 
rocks  and  gravel.  The  stalk  attains  a  height  of  about  three  inches,  and  in 
general  description  is  quite  like  a  well  known  article,  common  to  the  States, 
called  "  sheep-sorrel."  At  the  proper  season  it  bears  a  handsome  white 
blossom,  that  would  suffer  no  disparagement  when  placed  in  juxtaposi- 
tion with  many  of  the  choicer  specimens  of  our  gardens. 

The  commote*  is  a  root  much  like  the  common  radish  in  size  and  shape, 
while  a  brownish  skin  envelopes  a  substance  of  milky  whiteness,  soft  and 
nutritious,  and  of  an  agreeable  taste.  It  is  found  most  abundant  in  river 
bottoms,  and  requires  a  rich  alluvial  soil,  well  mixed  with  sedimentary 
deposites  and  vegetable  matter.  It  generally  penetrates  to  a  depth  of 
about  four  inches.  Its  leaves  resemble  those  of  the  carrot  in  shape  and 
color,  and  seldom  grow  to  exceed  two  inches  from  the  ground,  while  a  stalk 
equally  unpretending,  bears  a  blueish  blossom,  not  without  some  just 
claim  to  beauty. 

The  pomme  blanc  and  commote  are  equally  good  whether  boiled  or  raw, 
and  are  uniformly  harmless,  even  with  those  unaccustomed  to  their  use  as 
an  article  of  food. 

Making  way  with  our  scanty  supply,  a  fire  was  struck  and  a  kettle  of 
tea  prepared  from  wild  cherry  bark,  which  proved  quite  wholesome. 

This,  as  I  ascertained,  is  a  drink  quite  common  among  mountaineers 
and  Indians  in  the  spring  season,  and  is  used  for  purifying  the  blood  and 
reducing  it  to  suitable  consistency  for  the  temperature  of  summer.  As 
the  successful  performer  of  the  task  assigned,  I  most  cordially  attest  to 

*I  am  ignorant  of  the  meaning  or  derivation  of  this  name. 
10 


108  FASTING  AND  FEASTING. 

its  virtues,  and  recommend  it  as  the  most  innocent  and  effective  medicine, 
if  medicine  it  may  be  called,  that  can  be  employed  for  a  result  so  neces- 
sary to  general  health. 

Early  on  the  succeding  day  we  resumed  our  journey. 

I  now  for  the  first  time  noticed  a  gradual  change  in  the  geological 
character  of  the  country.  The  soil  in  many  places  appears  to  be  sterile, 
and  is  generally  of  a  red  clayish  nature,  mixed  with  sand  and  fragmentary 
rock,  and  strongly  impregnated  with  mineral  salts,  among  which  nitre 
forms  a  prominent  component.  Some  spots,  for  a  considerable  extent, 
are  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  present  a  surface  whitened  by 
saline  efflorescences,  among  which  nitre  and  sulphate  of  soda  form  a 
predominant  part. 

The  character  of  the  various  moulds  (with  the  exception  of  the  allu- 
vion in  the  vicinity  of  the  rivers  and  creeks)  is  almost  entirely  primitive, 
like  numerous  strata  of  rocks  upon  which  they  repose. 

The  grass,  from  the  dry  specimens  of  the  previous  summer's  growth, 
appeared  to  be  of  a  longer  and  a  coarser  kind,  and  more  sparse  and  iso- 
lated. The  short  buffalo-grass  of  the  grand  prairie  had  almost  entirely 
disappeared, — in  some  places  a  blueish  salt  grass  (herfba  salee)  showed 
itself  in  plats  uncropped  by  game.  Artemisie,*  or  rather  greasewood  of 
the  mountaineers,  became  quite  abundant,  as  did  absinthe,  or  wild  sage, 
together  with  severals  specimens  of  the  cacti  family,  which  are  the  common 
pest  of  the  mountain  prairies. 

The  purifying  effects  of  saline  exhalations,  with  the  odor  of  the  grease- 
wood and  absinthe  of  the  prairies,  plateaux  and  table  lands,  and  the  balsam 
and  cedar  of  the  adjacent  mountains,  afforded  an  atmosphere,  even  at  this 
unfavorable  season,  as  aromatic  as  the  air  of  Eden  and  as  wholesome  as 
the  deathless  clime  of  Elysium. 

Eastward  lay  a  broad  expanse  of  prairie,  bounded  only  by  the  horizon, 
while  westward  and  upon  either  hand,  the  high  summits  of  the  Black 
Hills,  with  their  pines  and  snows,  told  our  ingress  to  other  and  wilder 
scenes. 

Our  course  for  some  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  led  through  a  broad 
valley,  though  occasionally  winding  among  rugged  hills  of  red-sandstone 
and  primitive  rock,  with  denuded  sides  and  level  summits,  covered  with 
shrubs  and  dwarfish  pines. 

Towards  night,  on  reaching  a  small  stream,  called  Horse-shoe  creek, 
we  struck  camp.  One  of  the  party  having  killed  a  buck  deer,  we  were 
promptly  on  hand,  and  not  at  all  backward  in  obeying  the  calls  of  appe- 
tite, sharpened  by  a  continuous  abstinence  of  three  days. 

*  Lt.  Fremont,  in  his  report  relative  to  the  proceedings  of  the  expedition  of  1842, 
'3,  and  '4,  has  designated  some  three  varieties  of  shrubs  by  the  general  term  arte- 
misie,  among  which  are  greasewood  and  prairie  sage.  Although  the  latter  are  of 
the  same  family,  the  difference  in  their  appearance  is  so  marked,  I  have  thought 
it  proper  to  observe  a  nominal  distinction,  and  for  that  reason,  they  are  called  in 
subsequent  pages  by  teims  familiar  to  the  mountaineers. 


PRAIRIE  DOGS.  109 


Deer-meat  at  this  season  of  the  year  is  very  poor  eating, — especially 
that  of  the  buck, — it  being  both  lean  and  tough ;  but,  indifferent  as  it  was, 
we  were  too  hungry  to  be  nice. 

Previous  to  reaching  camp  I  rode  along  the  base  of  a  small  mountain, 
some  distance  to  the  right  of  the  main  party,  in  quest  of  game  ;  there  I 
caught  glimpse  of  the  first  panther  I  had  yet  met  with.  Jumping  from  my 
horse,  I  thought  to  give  him  a  passing  shot, — but  he,  neither  liking  my 
looks  nor  the  smell  of  gunpowder,  made  hasty  retreat  to  his  mountain 
home. 

Passing  leisurely  on,  my  course  led  through  a  large  village  of  prairie- 
dogs,  which  reminds  me  of  having  heretofore  neglected  a  description  of 
these  singular  animals. 

I  am  at  a  loss  to  imagine  what  it  is  in  the  habits  or  looks  of  the  prairie- 
dog  that  entitles  him  to  that  appellation. 

In  appearance  and  size  he  more  approximates  a  large  species  of  the 
sciurus  family,  commonly  called  the  fox-squirrel,  than  anything  I  can  name. 
His  tail,  however,  is  but  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  while  his  ears  and  legs 
are  also  short ; — as  a  whole,  perhaps,  he  is  a  trifle  larger  and  more  corpu- 
lent than  the  fox-squirrel.  His  "  bark "  is  precisely  like  the  occasional 
chatterings  of  that  animal,  and  his  color  is  of  a  brownish  red. 

His  habits  are  quite  inoffensive  and  lead  him  to  procure  his  food  from 
roots  and  grass.  Clumsy  in  his  motions,  he  seldom  ventures  far  from 
home — fearful  of  the  numerous  enemies  that  beset  him  on  all  sides,  both 
from  birds  and  beasts  of  prey. 

These  animals  congregate  together  in  large  villages,  and  dig  their  bur- 
rows adjoining  each  other ; — the  dirt  thrown  from  them  often  forming  cone- 
like elevations  three  or  four  feet  high,  in  whose  tops  are  the  entrances. 
The  latter  are  nearly  of  a  perpendicular  descent  for  two  feet,  and  then 
slope  away  to  a  great  distance  under  ground. 

These  villagers  locate  without  regard  to  the  vicinity  of  water,  and  it  is 
gravely  doubted,  by  many  persons,  whether  they  make  the  same  use  of  that 
fluid  as  other  animals  ; — I  have  seen  large  settlements  of  them  in  high  arid 
prairies,  at  a  distance  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  from  either  stream  or  pool 
of  water,  and  in  regions  subject  to  neither  rain  nor  dews. 

They  are  keen  of  sight  and  scent,  and  seemed  governed  by  some  code  of 
federative  regulations  for  mutual  safety.  Their  guards  are  regularly  posted 
at  the  suburbs  of  every  village,  whose  duty  it  is  to  be  continually  on  the 
alert  and  give  timely  warning  of  the  approach  of  danger. 

This  the  cautious  sentinels  discharge  by  standing  erect  at  the  slightest 
tainture  of  the  air,  or  startling  noise,  or  strange  appearance  ;  and,  having 
ascertained  by  careful  observations  its  nature  andv  cause,  they  sound  the 
sharp  yelp  and  chatter  of  alarm,  in  a  hurried  manner, — then,  betaking 
themselves  to  the  watch-towers  that  protect  the  entrances  to  their  burrows, 
from  the  verge  of  the  steep  parapets  they  again  renew  their  warning  notes, 
when  the  whilom  busy  populace,  bescattered  at  brief  distances  for  amuse- 
ment or  food,  return  with  all  possible  despatch  to  their  ready  holes  and  dis- 
appear from  view. 

The  faithful  sentinels  are  last  to  retreat  from  their  posts,  and  not  unfre 
quently  maintain  their  ground  at  the  hazard  of  individual  safety. 


110  WILD  SCENES. 

On  the  disappearance  of  the  cause  of  alarm,  they  are  the  first  to  com- 
municate the  pleasing  intelligence,  and  soon  the  reassured  community  again 
betake  themselves  to  their  business  and  sports. 

The  prairie-owl  and  rattlesnake  maintain  friendly  relations  with  these 
inoffensive  villagers,  and  not  unfrequently  the  three  heterogeneous  associates 
occupy  the  same  subterranean  appartments ; — a  strange  companionship  of 
birds,  beasts,  and  reptiles  ! 

The  prairie  dog  is  extremely  tenacious  of  life,  and  can  seldom  be  killed 
with  a  rifle,  unless  by  a  brain-shot ;  and  then,  even,  it  is  difficult  to  secure 
him,  as  his  compa lions  will  immediately  convey  the  carcase  into  their  holes 
beyond  reach. 

The  flesh  of  these  animals  is  tender  and  quite  palatable,  and  their  oil 
superior  in  fineness,  and  absence  from  all  grosser  ingredients,  to  that  of 
any  other  known  animals ;  it  is  highly  valued  as  a  medicine  in  certain 
cases. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


The  Creek  valley. — The  Platte  as  a  mountain  stream. — Canon. — Romantic  prospect. 
Comical  bear  story. — Perilous  encounter  with  a  wounded  bull. — Geological  re- 
marks.— Division  of  party. — Safety  of  spring  travel. — La  Bonte's  creek.-- -Remarks 
by  the  way.— Service-berry. — Deer  Creek.— General  observations. — Moccasin  mak- 
ing.— Box-elder. — Bear  killed. — Excellence  of  its  flesh. — Different  kinds  of  bears  in 
Oregon  and  the  mountains. — The  grizzly  bear,  his  nature  and  habits. 

Horse -shoe  creek  is  a  stream  of  considerable  size,  that  traces  its  way 
through  a  broad  valley  of  rich  alluvion,  well  timbered  with  cottonwood  and 
box-elder,  and  affording  all  the  usual  varieties  of  mountain  fruit.  The 
grass  of  the  preceding  year's  growth  was  quite  rank  and  stout,  giving 
evidence  of  a  fertile  soil. 

Resuming  our  course,  we  again  bore  towards  the  river  with  the  design 
of  crossing,  and,  after  a  few  hours'  ride  came  to  its  banks,  through  a  broad 
opening  between  two  ridges  of  hills  that  communicated  with  it  from  the 
high  prairies  and  table  lands  upon  the  left. 

Here,  however,  fording  was  impracticable,  the  stream  being  too  high  and 
the  current  swift. 

The  Platte  of  the  mountains  retains  scarcely  one  characteristic  of  the 
river  with  which  the  reader  has  hitherto  become  so  familiarized.  It  is  now 
confined  to  a  bed  of  rock  and  gravel,  not  exceeding  two  hundred  yards  in 
width,  and  is  of  unwonted  clearness  and  transparency.  Its  banks  are 
steep,  and  the  attrition  of  high  waters  discloses  a  deep  vegetable  mould  in 
their  vicinity,  favorable  to  the  growth  of  grain  or  other  produce. 

A  small  bottom  of  rich  sandy  loam  upon  the  opposite  side  lay  at  the  base 
of  a  high  ridge  of  table  lands,  which  presented  its  rugged  sides  of  red- 


INTERESTING  VIEW.  Ill 

sandstone,  almost  vertical  in  their  position,  and  ornamented  with  an  occa- 
sional stunted  pine,  or  cedar,  or  shrub  of  the  buffalo-berry,  (shepherdia  ar- 
gentea,)  while  at  their  base  reposed,  in  huge  masses,  a  profuse  medley  of 
fallen  fragments,  strown  around  in  all  the  wild  confusion  of  savage 
scenery. 

A  few  hundred  yards  to  the  left,  the  Platte  forces  its  way  through  a 
barrier  of  table  lands,  forming  one  of  those  striking  peculiarities  incident 
to  mountain  streams,  called  a  "canon."* 

Improving  the  opportunity  afforded  by  a  short  stay,  I  ascended  an  emi- 
nence to  enjoy  a  full  vew  of  the  grand  spectacle.  The  mountain  through 
which  the  river  finds  passage,  at  this  place,  is  from  five  to  eight  hundred 
feet  high,  opposing  perpendicular  walls  upon  each  side,  that  at  many  points 
overhang  the  narrow  stream  which  sweeps  with  its  foaming  waters  among 
the  rocks  below. 

This  canon  is  nearly  two  miles  in  length.  About  midway  of  the  dis- 
tance the  whole  stream  is  precipitated  in  an  unbroken  volume  from  a  ledge 
of  rocks,  causing  a  cataract  of  some  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet  descent. 

Standing  upon  the  dizzy  verge  of  this  frightful  chasm,  and  gazing 
adown  its  dark  abyss,  the.  aspect  is  one  of  terrific  sublimity,  and  such  an 
one  as  will  cause  the  beholder  to  shrink  back  with  instinctive  dread  ! 

These  walls  are  principally  of  red-sandstone,  and  ferruginous  rock,  the 
precise  character  of  which  I  was  unable  to  determine.  Upon  the  summit 
I  noticed  an  abundance  of  silex,  with  some  elegant  specimens  of  crystal- 
line quartz,  that,  reflecting  the  sun's  rays,  shone  like  gems  in  the  crown  of 
a  mountain-god ;  a  number  of  singular  ligneous  petrifactions  also  met  my 
observation,  principally  consisting  of  pine  and  cedar. 

The  surrounding  country  brought  within  the  scope  of  vision  an  interest- 
ing and  romantic  scene.  The  lofty  table  land  in  front  (with  diversified 
surfaces  of  granitic  rock  and  vegetable  earth,  affording  a  scanty  nourish- 
ment for  herbage  and  foothold  for  dwarfish  cedars  and  pines)  spread  far 
away  to  the  snow-clad  mountains  of  the  north, — while  rearward  at  its  base 
lay  the  broad  valley  through  which  passes  the  Oregon  trail,  shut  in  upon  two 
sides  by  rugged  hills ;  and  farther  on  arise  the  snowy  sides  of  the  Lara- 
mie chain,  with  their  cloud-capped  summits.  To  the  left,  peak  towering 
above  peak,  in  gradual  succession,  point  to  the  ridge  dividing  the  waters 
of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific;  and,  to  the  right,  the  lessening  eminences, 
vallons,  and  plateaux,  guide  the  eye  to  where  the  boundless  prairie  revels 
in  wild  beauty  and  owns  itself  the  realm  of  eternal  Solitude ! 

How  magnificent  must  be  the  scene  when  spring  arrays  the  surrounding 
landscape  in  her  own  loveliness,  and  bedecks  the  wilderness  with  gaudy 
verdure ! 

Bearing  again  to  the  left,  we  continued  our  course  by  a  winding 
buffalo-path  which  soon  brought  us  to  a  broad  valley  bordering  upon  the 

*The  Spanish  word  "  canon"  implies  a  narrow,  tunnel-like  passage  between  high 
and  precipitous  banks,  formed  by  mountains  or  table  lands.  It  is  pronounced  kanyon, 
and  is  a  familiar  term  in  the  vocabulary  of  a  mountaineer. 

'  10* 


1 12  OBSERVATIONS. 

Riding  on,  we  soon  came  to  a  large  sand  creek ;  and,  observing  several 
bulls  in  the  vicinity,  we  accepted  the  advantage  offered  by  a  small  grove 
of  cottonwoods  and  willows,  with  a  clear  spring,  and  struck  camp. 

During  the  day,  the  oddity  of  an  old  Franco-Canadian,  who  accompa- 
nied us,  afforded  me  considerable  amusement.  Observing  that  he  had  car- 
ried his  gun  uncharged  for  several  days  past,  a  circumstance  so  singular 
in  this  country  led  me  to  enquire  the  cause.  The  old  fellow,  with  the  most 
laughable  sangfroid,  answered  as  follows  : 

"  Me  carry  fusee  load  ?  No,  no  !  monsieur.  No  good,  carry  fusee  load 
sur  le  printems.  Certes,  much  bear  come  out — him  dangereux.  Me  live 
long  en  le  montagnes  ;  oui,  no  remarque — duo,  tree,  great  many  year ! 
Sacre  dem  bear, — vat  you  call  him  en  la  American  ?" 

"  Grizzly  bear,  I  suppose  you  mean,"  said  I. 

"  Oui,  oui,  monsieur  ;  much  graces,  monsieur  !  Oui,  gizzle  bear  ;  me 
parler  bon  American,  que  no  remarque  gizzle  bear !  cntonner !  Sacre  dem 
gizzle  bear,  him  come  out  une  day,  kill  me  de  pres." 

"  Well;"  continued  I ;  "  what  has  that  to  do  with  carrying  your  gun  un- 
loaded ?" 

"  Oui,  oui ;  pardonner,  monsieur.  Me  parler  tel  une  bon  American ! 
Me  reciter,  sacre  dem  bear, — vat  you  call  him,  monsieur  ?  Oh,  gizzle 
bear  !  Sacre  dem  gizzle  bear,  me  see  him  une  day,  en  le  printems  ;  big, 
grand  felleu.  Shoot  him  fusee ;  make  him  much  blood ;  no  kill  him. 
Sacre  dem  bear,  gizzle  bear,  him  jump  for  me.  '  Wa-r-r-h  !'  he  say,  (im- 
itating the  bear.)  Bon  Dieu !  me  no  stay  dare;  me  bein  fast  run ;  me 
abandonner  la  fusee  ;  me  climb  une  leetil  pine.  Sacre  dem  bear — vat  you 
call  him  ?  Ah,  oui,  gizzle  bear.  Certes,  monsieur,  me  parler  bon  Amer- 
ican, tel  une  naturel !  Sacre  dem  bear,  him  come  to  tree  ;  no  climb  him, 
—he  too  leetil.  Look  him  all  round,  den ;  sacre  dem  bear,  gizzle  bear  did. 
See  fusee  lie ;  pick  him  up;  cock  him  fusee,  sacre  dem  bear,  gizzle  bear 
did.  Take  him  aim  at  me  ;  snap  him  fusee  tree  time.  Oh,  monDieu  ! 
mon  Dieu  !  Suppose  him  fusee  been  load !  Tonnerre  de  bate  me  !  Him 
shoot  me ;  him  kill  me  dead !  sacre  dem  bear,  dem  gizzle  bear  vould ! 
Certes,  monsieur ;  por  le  assure,  sacre  dem  gizzle  bear,  him  kill  me !  en  le 
verite,  monsieur,  him  kill  me  dead  !" 

"  So,"  resumed  I,  "  your  reason  for  not  carrying  your  gun  loaded  is,  you 
are  fearful  that  a  bear  might  chance  to  get  hold  of  it  and  shoot  you !" 

"  Certes,  monsieur  ;  en  le  verite  !  No  carry  gun  load,  sur  le  printems. 
Sacre  dem  bear  get  'old  of  him,  he  shoot  2" 

Towards  night,  two  of  our  party,  who  had  gone  in  pursuit  of  buffalo, 
returned  laden  with  meat,  which,  though  poor,  was  far  preferable  to  the 
lean  venison  we  had  fed  upon  for  the  last  twenty-four  hours. 

The  male  buffalo,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  is  generally  fatter  than 
the  female,  unless  it  be  one  of  the  few  barren  cows  that  sometimes 
are  found  in  large  bands;    but,  neither  is  worth  boasting  of. 

After  our  long  fasting  and  indifferent  fare  for  six  entire  days,  it  is 
not  marvellous  that  we  improved,  with  quickened  zest,  the  present  op- 
portunity of  feasting. 


DIVISION  OF  PARTY.  113 

The  day  following,  two  parties  started  in  quest  of  game, — one  of  which 
killed  three  bulls,  at  as  many  shots,  within  half  an  hour  after  leaving 
camp. 

The  other  party  also  killed  two,  but,  in  securing  one  of  them,  they  met 
with  an  exciting  adventure. 

Both  animals  were  extended  upon  the  ground,  one  entirely  and  the  other 
apparently  dead — the  hunters,  having  butchered  one  of  them,  proceeded  to 
the  other,  and  were  in  the  act  of  raising  him  to  the  right  position  for  the 
commencement  of  operation.  The  old  fellow,  not  relishing  the  like  famil- 
iarity from  new  acquaintances,  sprang  to  his  feet,  and  made  a  plunge  at 
the  affrighted  hunters,  who  only  escaped  the  fatal  charge  by  one  of  those 
admirable  feats  of  quick  dodging  so  often  in  requisition  among  moun- 
taineers. 

The  bull,  passing  between  them,  fell  head  foremost  against  the  ground, 
two  or  three  feet  beyond  the  spot  they  had  occupied  scarcely  a  second 
previous; — then  rising,  with  glaring  eyes  and  distended  nostrils,  and 
mouth  foaming  with  blood  and  rage,  he  pursued  one  of  them  in  hot  chase, 
for  a  distance  of  several  hundred  yards.  So  close  was  the  bull  in  a  few 
leaps,  that  with  a  sweep  of  his  horns  he  gored  the  hunter's  back,  tearing 
away  his  pantaloons  and  coat,  and  prostrating  him  upon  all-fours  at  the 
edge  of  a  deep  ravine,  down  which  he  tumbled ; — the  enraged  beast  fol- 
lowed, but  the  force  of  an  unbroken  headway  landed  him,  with  a  tremen- 
dous shock,  against  the  opposite  bank,  far  beyond  the  hunter.  Improve- 
ing  the  advantage  thus  gained,  the  latter  escaped  through  the  windings  of 
the  ravine,  and  ascended  the  bank,  without  the  reach  of  his  pursuer. 

Having  procured  his  ritie,  after  nine  more  shots  had  riddled  the  lights 
of  the  bull's  carcase,  the  business  of  butchering  was  again  commenced  and 
terminated  without  further  mishap. 

Our  stay  at  this  camp  was  prolonged  for  three  or  four  days. 

The  geological  character  of  the  vicinity  corresponds  very  much  with 
that  previously  remarked,  and  to  describe  it  in  full  would  seem  too  much 
like  a  repetition.  I  have,  perhaps,  said  sufficient  to  give  the  reader  a  cor- 
rect idea  of  the  prominent  characteristics  of  these  parts,  and  hence,  for  the 
sake  of  brevity,  shall  hereafter  forbear  further  notes  upon  this  subject, 
unless  some  uniform  change  or  striking  peculiarity  should  call  for  a 
passing  observation. 

Prior  to  resuming  our  journey,  a  disagreement  occurred  between  us  rel- 
ative to  the  proposed  route. 

Some  were  desirous  of  proceeding  southward  into  the  Plains  of  Lara- 
mie ;  thence,  bearing  eastward  to  Laramie  river,  following  its  valley  to  Fort 
Platte ; — others  were  anxious  to  continue  up  the  Platte  to  Sweet  Water,  or 
further,  and  from  thence  proceed  as  circumstances  or  inclination  might 
suggest. 

This  difference  finally  resulted  in  a  division  of  the  party. — four  in 
favor  of  the  western,  and  three  of  the  southern  route, — myself  being  in- 
cluded with  the  former. 

Selecting  two  pack-mules  for  the  conveyance  of  provisions  and  camp- 


114  MOCCASIN  MAKING. 

equipage,  the  day  following  we  mounted  our  horses  and  were  under  way. 
With  the  exception  of  myself,  the  present  party  consisted  of  old  and  ex- 
perienced mountaineers,  well  acquainted  with  the  country  and  the  nature 
of  Indians.  Though,  in  regard  to  the  latter,  little  danger  was  apprehen- 
ded at  this  season  of  the  year,  as  the  Sioux  had  not  yet  left  their  winter 
quarters,  and  they  rarely  traverse  the  vicinity  of  Sweet  Water  before  the 
middle  of  May.  Other  tribes  we  might  look  upon  as  friendly.  We, 
therefore,  anticipated  a  safe  and  pleasant  excursion. 

During  the  day  our  course  led  over  a  rough  undulating  prairie,  bounded 
on  the  right  mostly  by  the  river,  and  on  the  left  by  the  mountains. 

In  the  heads  of  valleys  and  ravines  I  noticed  numerous  withered  stalks 
of  the  bread-root,  (jpsoralea  esculenta,)  indicating  its  great  abundance,  and 
also  an  increased  quantity  of  absinthe. 

At  night  we  encamped  at  the  forks  of  a  small  stream  called  La  Bonte's 
creek.  Near  the  confluence  of  its  waters  with  the  Platte  are  the  remains 
of  a  log  cabin,  occcupied  by  a  trading  party  several  years  since. 

The  creek  is  tolerably  well  timbered,  and  the  valley,  through  which  it 
winds  its  way,  affords  many  beautiful  bottoms  of  rich  soil.  The  rock  in 
the  vicinity  disclosed  a  furruginous  character,  especially  the  sandstone. 

Among  the  usual  fruit-bearing  shrubs  and  bushes,  I  here  noticed  the 
"  service  berry." 

This  kind  of  fruit  is  very  abundant  in  the  mountainons  parts  of  Oregon, 
where  it  attains  a  size  but  little  inferior  to  the  common  plum,  and  is  highly 
esteemed  for  its  superior  flavor. 

Leaving  La  Bonte's  creek,  we  travelled  by  easy  stages,  for  three  suc- 
cessive days,  and  struck  camp  at  the  mouth  of  Deer  creek. 

Our  course  led  over  several  beautiful  streams,  most  of  them  well  tim- 
bered with  cottonwood  and  box-elder,  and  occasionally  skirted  by  rich  bot- 
toms. Previous  to  reaching  this  point  we  followed  along  the  Platte  valley, 
for  a  distance  of  some  twenty  or  thirty  miles,  which  presented  several  fine 
bottoms  of  rich  sandy  soil  upon  either  bank,  together  with  numerous 
groves  of  cottonwood. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  generally  a  succession  of  ridges  and  hol- 
lows, intersected  by  ravines  and  small  streams  of  water. 

At  Deer  creek,  and  for  some  distance  before  reaching  it,  the  mountain 
chain  to  our  left  approaches  within  four  or  five  miles  of  the  river,  rising 
abruptly  to  a  height  of  from  eight  to  fifteen  hundred  feet,  with  frowning 
brows  and  pine-clad  summits. 

Deer  creek  is  one  of  the  largest  affluents  of  the  Platte,  from  the  south, 
between  Sweet  Water  and  Laramie.  At  this  place  it  is  about  eight  yards 
broad,  with  a  smooth  and  transparent  current  that  sweeps  over  a  bed  of 
rock  and  gravel.  Its  banks  are  well  timbered  with  large  cottonwoods,  and 
present  rich  bottoms  of  alluvial  soil,  very  luxuriant  in  grass. 

Even  this  early  in  the  season,  the  fresh  grass  of  the  vicinity  affords  tempt- 
ing nourishment  for  our  animals,  and  wishing  to  favor  them  as  much  as 
possible,  we  have  concluded  to  remain  a  short  time. 

During  the  succeeding  interval  we  were  variously  occupied  in  hunting, 
root-digging,  and  moccasin-making.     The  latter  is  a  business  in  which 


A  FEAST  OF  BEAR  MEAT.  115 

every  mountaineer  is  necessarily  a  proficient,  and  rarely  will  he  venture 
upon  a  long  journey  without  the  appurtenances  of  his  profession. 

The  process  of  shoe-making  with  him  is  reduced  to  its  most  simple  form. 
He  merely  takes  two  pieces  of  buffalo  (or  any  other  suitable)  skin,  each 
being  a  little  longer  and  wider  than  his  foot,  particularly  towards  the 
heel ;  these  he  folds  separately,  and  lays  them  together  parallel  with  the 
turned  edges  ;  then,  rounding  and  trimming  the  sides,  to  render  them  foot- 
shaped,  with  an  awl  and  the  sinew  of  buffalo  or  other  animal,  or  small 
strips  of  thin  deer-skin,.  ("  whang")  he  sews  the  vamps  from  end  to  end, — 
then  after  cutting  a  tongue-like  appendage  in  the  upper  side,  midway  from 
heel  to  toe,  and  stitching  together  the  posterior  parts,  his  task  is  done. 

Having  obtained  a  quantity  of  sap  from  a  grove  of  box-elders  near 
camp,  we  found  it  a  sweet  and  pleasant  liquid,  and  not  inferior  to  that  of 
maple.     Sugar  might  be  manufactured  from  it,  with  little  trouble. 

The  leaves  of  this  tree,  as  well  as  the  general  appearance  of  its  wood, 
greatly  assimilate  those  of  maple,  and,  independent  of  its  bushy  tops  and 
stunted,  winding  growth,  it  would  be  hard  to  tell  the  difference  at  a  first 
glance. 

Game  was  plenty  on  every  side,  both  buffalo,  deer,  and  elk,  with  some 
few  bear. 

The  second  day  after  our  arrival,  one  of  the  latter,  attracted  by  the  scent 
of  fresh  buffalo  meat,  ventured  within  gun-shot  of  camp.  Instantly  the 
balls  of  four  rifles  were  buried  in  his  carcase.  Aroused  by  this  feeling 
salute,  he  rushed  towards  us  at  the  top  of  his  speed,  when  our  horses, 
affrighted  at  the  strange  appearance,  broke  snorting  away  over  the  neigh- 
boring hills,  and  we  ourselves  took  to  trees  as  fast  as  possible. 

In  the  midst  of  this  general  consternation  a  pistol  ball,  fired  by  one  of 
the  party,  buried  itself  in  the  brains  of  our  troublesome  visitor  and  laid  him 
prostrate. 

He  was  one  of  a  species  common  to  the  mountains,  called  the  red  bear, 
and  must  have  weighed  four  or  five  hundred  pounds.  The  fat  upon  his 
back  was  full  three  inches  thick  His  skin  when  stretched  would  have 
compared  in  size  to  that  of  a  buffalo,  and  the  claws  of  his  feet  were  full  three 
inches  long. 

At  this  season  of  the  year,  when  these  animals  first  leave  their  dens, 
tney  are  much  the  fattest, — a  singular  circumstance,  if  we  remember  the 
fact  of  their  remaining  holed  up  for  the  entire  winter,  without  eating  ! 

After  butchering  the  greasy  victim,  and  bringing  our  erratic  horses  back 
to  camp,  we  regaled  ourselves  with  an  ample  feast  of  bear's  liver,  heart, 
and  kidneys,  basted  with  fat, — a  dish  that  epicures  might  well  covet. 
Then,  filling  a  large  camp-kettle  with  portions  of  the  "  fleece  "  and  ribs, 
we  allowed  it  to  boil  till  the  next  morning,  and  thus  prepared  another  deli- 
cious entertainment,  such  as  is  rarely  met  with  in  any  country  other  than 
this. 

Bear  meat,  to  be  tender  and  good,  should  be  boiled  at  least  ten  hours. 
This  is  probably  the  most  preferable  mode  of  cooking  it,  though  a  roast  of 
the  article  is  far  from  bad. 

There  are  four  several  varieties  of  bear  found  in  the  Rocky  Mountains 


116  NATURE  AND  HABITS  OF  THE  GRIZZLY  BEAR. 

and  countries  adjacent,  viz. :  The  grizzly  bear,  the  black,  the  red,  and  the 
white. 

Of  these,  the  grizzly  bear  stands  pre-eminent  in  ferocity  and  strength. 
He  will  almost  invariably  flee  at  the  sight  or  scent  of  a  man,  and  seldom 
attacks  any  one  unless  wounded.  When  shot,  he  generally  runs  at  full 
speed  towards  the  sound,  and  woe  to  the  unfortunate  hunter  who  then 
comes  in  his  way,  unless  fully  prepared  for  a  deadly  encounter ! 

This  animal  reigns  prince  of  the  mountains,  and  every  other  beast  within 
his  wide  realm  acknowledges  his  supremacy. 

Wolves  aud  panthers  dare  not  approach  him,  or  disturb  aught  savoring 
of  his  ownership.  Even  the  carcase  of  his  prey,  covered  with  the  earth 
and  rock  his  cautious  instinct  teaches  him  to  heap  upon  it  for  preservation, 
is  unmolested,  though  hundreds  of  wolves  and  panthers  might  be  starving 
around. 

Buffalo  dread  his  presence  far  more  than  the  dangerous  approach  of 
the  hunter,  and  will  sooner  bring  into  requisition  their  swiftest  powers  of 
flight  on  such  occasions.  With  great  difficulty  a  horse  can  can  be  per- 
suaded to  go  within  any  near  distance  of  one  of  them,  even  when  led,  and 
then  he  will  quail  and  tremble  in  every  joint,  from  extreme  terror. 

In  short,  the  grizzly  bear  stalks  forth  at  pleasure,  in  his  majesty  and 
strength,  lord  of  the  wild  solitudes  in  which  he  dwells,  and  none  dares  op- 
pose him. 

Some  writers  assert  that  bears  will  not  prey  upon  dead  carcases, — this 
is  contrary  to  fact.  I  have  often  known  them  take  possession  of  the 
carcases  of  animals,  even  when  nearly  putrid,  and  remain  until  they  were 
devoured. 

They  frequently  kill  buffalo,  horses,  and  cattle  to  gratify  their  taste  for 
animal  food,  and,  in  such  cases,  always  drag  their  prey  to  some  convenient 
spot,  and  perform  the  task  of  burial  by  heaping  upon  it  piles  of  rock  or 
earth,  to  a  depth  of  several  feet,  for  protection  against  the  voracity  of  other 
beasts  of  prey.  It  is  not  uncommon,  even,  that  they  drag  the  entire  carcase 
of  a  full-grown  bull  a  distance  of  several  hundred  yards,  by  the  horns,  for 
this  purpose, — so  great  is  their  strength  and  so  accute  their  sagacity. 


117 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Desperate  encounter  with  a  grizzly  bear,  and  extraordinary  instance  of  suffering. — 
Close  contest. — A  comical  incident. — Cross  Platte. — Canon  camp. — Sage  trees.— 
Mountain  sheep,  and  all  about  them. — Independence  Rock ;  why  so  called,  and 
description  of  it. — Devil's  Gate. — Landscape  scenery. 

The  adventure  recorded  in  the  preceding  chapter  called  forth  the  re- 
hearsal of  many  thrilling  stories  of  frightful  encounter  with  that  proud 
monarch  of  the  mountains,  the  grizzly  bear.  Two  or  three  of  these  it  may 
not  be  uninteresting  to  transcribe. 

Several  years  since,  an  old  trapper  by  the  name  of  Glass,  with  his  com 
panion,  while  on  an  excursion,  came  upon  a  large  grizzly  bear. 

Bruin,  having  received  the  salute  of  two  rifles,  as  usual,  rushed  toward* 
his  uncivil  assailants,  who  broke  from  him  with  all  possible  despatch.  But 
Glass,  stumbling,  fell  prostrate  in  his  flight,  and  before  he  could  recover  his 
feet  the  infuriated  beast  was  upon  him. 

Now  commenced  a  death-struggle.  The  pistols  of  the  hunter  were  both 
discharged  in  quick  succession, — the  ball  of  one  entering  the  breast  of  his 
antagonist,  and  that  of  the  other  grazing  his  back. 

Smarting  and  maddened  by  the  pain  of  additional  wTounds,  the  bleeding 
monster  continued  the  conflict  with  the  fury  of  desperation, — tearing  from 
the  limbs  and  body  of  the  unfortunate  man  large  pieces  of  trembling  flesh, 
and  lacerating  him  with  the  deep  thrusts  of  his  teeth  and  claws. 

Meanwhile  the  sufferer  maintained,  with  his  butcher-knife,  an  obstinate 
defence,  though  with  fast  waning  effort  and  strength.  Finally,  enfeebled 
by  the  loss  of  blood,  and  exhausted  from  the  extraordinary  exertions  of  a 
desperate  and  unequal  contest,  he  was  unable  to  oppose  further  resis- 
tance, and  quietly  resigned  himself  to  his  fate. 

The  bear,  too,  with  the  thick  blood  oozing  from  his  numerous  wounds, 
and  faint  from  the  many  stabs  among  his  veins  and  sinews,  seemed 
equally  in  favor  of  a  suspension  of  hostilities ;  and,  extending  himself 
across  the  hunter's  back,  he  remained  motionless  for  two  hours  or 
more. 

But  now  another  enemy  commences  an  assault  upon  his  vitals — that 
enemy  is  death.  In  vain  is  defensive  effort.  In  vain  are  all  his  struggles. 
He  falls  by  the  hunter's  side  a  lifeless  corse. 

The  setting  sun  had  cast  his  lurid  glare  upon  the  ensanguined  spot,  as 
the  comrade  of  the  miserable  Glass  ventured  near  to  ascertain  the  result 
of  the  fierce  encounter. 

There  lay  the  body  of  his  deserted  friend,  stretched  out,  apparently  life- 
less and  half-torn  to  pieces  ;  and,  by  its  side,  lay  the  carcase  of  that  ene- 
my, which  had  waged  with  it  such  murderous  war,  cold  and  stiffened  in 
death! 

Now,  doubly  terrified  at  his  loneliness,  but  still  governed  by  sordid  mo- 


118  A  CLOSE  CONTEST. 

tives,  he  stripped  the  former  of  his  arms  and  every  other  valuable,  then  no 
longer  needed  (as  he  supposed)  by  their  owner,  and,  mounting  his  horse, 
started  immediately  for  the  nearest  trading  post. 

On  his  arrival  he  recounted  the  particulars  of  the  fatal  occurrence, — 
carefully  concealing,  however,  his  own  criminal  conduct.  The  story  was 
accredited,  and  the  name  of  Glass  found  place  upon  the  long  catalogue  of 
those  who  had  fallen  a  prey  to  wild  beasts  and  savage  men. 

Six  weeks  elapsed  and  no  one  thought  of  the  subject  of  our  sketch  as 
among  the  living.  The  general  surprise,  therefore,  may  be  readily  imag- 
ined, on  opening  the  fort-gates  one  morning,  at  finding  before  them  the 
poor,  emaciated  form  of  a  man,  half-naked,  and  covered  with  wounds  and 
running  sores,  and  so  torn  the  fleshless  bones  of  his  legs  and  thighs  were 
exposed  to  view  in  places  !  and  how  this  astonishment  was  heighten- 
ed on  recognizing  the  person  of  Glass  in  the  illy  defined  lineaments  of  his 
countenance — the  very  man  so  long  regarded  as  the  inhabitant  of  another 
world !  A  veritable  ghost  suddenly  appearing  upon  the  spot  couid  not  have 
occasioned  greater  wonder ! 

But,  sensations  of  pity  and  commiseration  quickly  succeeded  those  of 
surprise,  and  the  unhappy  sufferer  was  conveyed  within  doors  and  received 
from  the  hands  of  friends  that  careful  attention  his  situation  so  much  re- 
quired. 

The  story  of  his  misfortunes  was  thrillingly  interesting.  When  left  by 
his  companion  for  dead,  he  was  in  a  state  of  unconsciousness,  with  scarce- 
ly the  breath  of  life  retained  in  his  mangled  body.  But,  the  soft  night- 
wind  stanched  his  wounds,  and  a  slight  sleep  partially  revived  him  from 
his  death-like  stupor. 

With  the  morning,  the  slight  sensations  of  hunger  he  began  to  ex- 
perience were  appeased  from  the  raw  flesh  of  the  carcase  at  his  side; 
and,  thus  strengthened,  by  a  slow  and  tedious  effort  he  was  enabled  to 
reach  a  near  stream  and  quench  his  thirst.  Still  further  revived,  he 
again  crawled  to  the  carcase  at  the  demands  of  appetite. 

In  this  manner  he  continued  for  three  days,  when  the  putrescent 
corse  compelled  him  to  abandon  it. 

Then  it  was  he  commenced  his  tedious  return  to  the  fort,  (some 
seventy  miles  distant,)  which  he  performed  during  an  interval  of  forty 
successive  days !  The  whole  of  this  long  stretch  he  crawled  upon  his 
hands  and  knees, — subsisting,  for  the  meanwhile,  only  upon  insects,  such 
as  chance  threw  in  his  way,  but  passing  most  of  the  time  without  one 
morsel  with  which  to  appease  the  gnawings  of  hunger  or  renew  his 
wasted  strength. 

Yet,  great  as  were  his  sufferings  and  intolerable  as  they  may  seem, 
he  survived  them  all,  and,  by  the  kind  attention  of  friends,  soon  recov- 
ered. 

He  still  lives  in  the  town  of  Taos,  New  Mexico,  and  frequently  re- 
peats to  wondering  listeners  the  particulars  of  this  terrific  and  painful 
adventure. 

One  of  our  party,  whose  right  hand  was  much  disabled  from  the  effects 
of  a  wound,  now  told  his  story. 

For  several  years  succeeding  his  first  arrival  in  the  Rocky  Mountains, 


A  COMICAL  INCIDENT.  119 

lie  had  permitted  no  opportunity  of  killing  any  one  of  the  various  species 
of  bear,  common  to  these  regions,  to  pass  unimproved.  Never  did  he  think 
of  fearing  them,  and  was  always  the  last  to  retreat  in  case  of  a  charge. 

When  a  bear  appeared  within  any  reasonable  shooting  distance  of 
our  hunter,  it  almost  invariably  fell  a  victim  to  his  unerring  aim.  But,  ere- 
long, this  spirit  of  bold-daring  proved  the  source  of  lasting  regret  to  its 
possessor. 

On  the  occasion  alluded  to,  having  shot  at  one  of  these  animals,  contra- 
ry to  his  usual  good  luck,  he  only  wounded  it. 

The  bear  in  turn  now  became  the  assailant,  but  received  the  contents  of 
two  pistols  before  it  had  time  to  advance  far.  Our  hunter  at  this  crisis 
sprang  to  a  neighboring  pine,  which  he  commenced  climbing.  His  pursu- 
er, gaining  the  tree  almost  as  soon,  likewise  began  its  ascent. 

Here  occurred  a  struggle  between  them — the  man  to  force  his  way  up- 
wards, and  the  bear  to  prevent  him.  The  former,  drawing  his  butcher- 
knife,  thrust  it  at  the  eyes  and  nose  of  his  antagonist.  Not  fancying  such 
pointed  hints  upon  a  delicate  subject,  Mr.  Bruin  caught  hold  of  the  hunter's 
hand,  and,  as  an  earnest  of  deep  sensitiveness,  crushed  it  between  his  teeth, 
— nor  even  then  relinquished  the  gripe.  Transferred  to  the  left  hand,  the 
knife  continued  its  work,  till  the  sickening  beast  commenced  sliding  down- 
ward— dragging  the  poor  hunter  also  to  the  ground.  Both  struck  at  the 
same  time ;  but,  at  that  instant,  the  knife  of  the  latter  pierced  the  heart  of 
his  antagonist,  and  laid  him  dead  at  his  feet. 

The  unfortunate  man,  however,  lost  two  of  his  fingers  in  the  affray,  and 
his  hand  was  otherwise  so  much  injured  he  has  never  since  recovered  its 


Another  story  related  at  the  same  time,  though  not  possessing  the  deep 
and  thrilling  interest  of  the  preceding  ones,  partakes  a  little  of  the  ludircous, 
and  will  doubtless  amuse  the  reader. 

The  narrator  a  while  since  formed  one  of  a  trapping  party,  with  which 
he  proceeded  to  the  Utah  country.  While  there,  on  a  certain  occasion, 
having  set  his  traps  over  night,  he  returned  to  examine  them  the  next 
morning,  in  quest  of  beaver,  and,  to  his  surprise,  one  of  them  was  missing. 
After  cautiously  examining  the  premises,  under  the  impression  that  some 
lurking  Indians  had  stolen  his  trap  with  its  contents,  he  noticed  the  tracks  of 
bears,  near  by,  which  served  at  once  to  unravel  the  whilom  mystery  of  its 
disappearance. 

He  now  began  to  muse  upon  his  loss,  as,  without  the  missing  trap,  his 
set  would  be  rendered  incomplete,  and,  under  present  circumstances,  the 
want  of  the  thing  was  more  than  the  worth  of  it.  While  thus  ruminating, 
a  slight  noise,  among  neighboring  cherry-bushes  and  cottonwood,  caught 
his  ear,  which  sounded  like  some  one  beating  with  two  sticks. 

This  induced  him  to  approach  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  cause, 
when  an  opening  revealed  to  view  Mr.  Bruin  seated  upon  a  log  and  hold- 
ing to  his  lace  the  missing  trap,  tightly  clasped  to  his  fore-paw. 

The  bear  appeared  to  be  regarding  the  strange  instrument  with  close 
attention,  as  if  to  study  into  the  principles  of  its  construction ; — now  gazing 
at  it  endwise,  then  bringing  its  side  in  close  proximity  to  his  eyes ;  then 
turning  it  over  to  examine  the  opposite  one ; — now,  he  would  essay  its 

XI 


123 


HUNTING  CAMP. 


strength,  and  lightly  taps  it  upon  the  log.     But  this  is  a  painful  operation, — 
ne  relinquishes  it,  and  resumes  his  former' grotesque  movements. 

Watching  this  curious  performance,  the  trapper  could  scarcely  retain 
his  gravity,  or  master  his  fondness  for  the  ludicrous  sufficiently  for  the  in- 
tended shot.  He  did,  however,  and  the  comedy  was  suddenly  transformed 
to  a  tragedy,  by  leaving  its  actor  struggling  in  death. 

A  light  fall  of  snow  during  the  last  of  our  stay  at  Deer  creek,  rendered 
the  ground  quite  muddy  and  soft ;  notwithstanding  which  we  resumed  our 
course  early  in  the  morning  of  the  fourth  day. 

Continuing  on,  a  ride  of  thirty  miles  brought  us  to  the  place  where  the 
Oregon  trail  crosses  the  Platte ;  and,  after  fording  the  river,  we  encamped 
upon  the  opposite  side. 

The  stream,  at  this  point,  is  about  three  hundred  yards  from  bank  to 
bank,  and,  at  the  time  of  our  crossing  it,  swimming  deep  for  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  way. 

In  ordinary  stages,  the  water  is  but  little  over  three  feet  deep,  and  the 
ford  perfectly  safe  and  practicable.  The  partial  melting  of  the  mountain 
snows  had  increased  the  size  and  velocity  of  its  current,  and  rendered  our 
passage  slightly  dangerous  and  difficult.  The  bed  appeared  to  be  rocky, 
and  in  some  places  rough, — requiring  much  caution  in  crossing  waggons, 
to  prevent  them  from  overturning. 

On  the  third  day  following,  we  arrived  at  another  remarkable  canon,  after 
travelling  a  distance  of  thirty-five  or  forty  miles.  Here,  finding  large 
numbers  of  mountain  sheep,  we  were  induced  to  remain  a  short  time. 

Our  course  for  most  of  this  distance  was  confined  to  the  valley  of  the 
Platte,  on  account  of  the  greater  supply  of  wood  found  upon  its  banks. 

Towards  noon  of  the  first  day,  we  passed  a  point,  called  the  "  Red 
Buttes,"  at  which  the  river  cuts  its  way  through  a  lofty  ridge  of  hills. 
This  passage  left  a  considerable  bank  upon  both  sides,  shut  in  by  abrupt 
walls  of  red  argillaceous  sandstone,  towering  to  the  height  of  several 
hundred  feet. 

The  soil  was  generally  a  mixture  of  clay  and  sand,  and,  in  some  places, 
afforded  a  reddish  loam  which  appeared  to  be  very  rich. 

A  short  ride  from  the  "  Red  Buttes  "  took  us  across  a  beautiful  stream, 
with  a  broad  bottom,  well  timbered  with  cottonwood. 

Large  herds  of  buffalo  were  continually  in  sight  upon  the  whole  route. 

Several  miles  previous  to  reaching  the  canon,  my  notice  was  first  attracted 
to  the  extraordinary  size  attained  by  the  wild  sage ;  it  having  merged  its  shrub- 
like appearance  into  that  of  trees  varying  from  five  to  ten  feet  in  height  and 
from  twenty  to  twenty-five  inches  in  circumference  at  the  root. 

The  magnificent  dimensions  of  this  herb  are  retained  for  a  large  extent 
of  territory  to  the  south  and  west  of  this  vicinity.  It  is  frequently  made 
use  of  for  fire-wood,  and  the  prairies,  in  many  places,  are  covered  with 
oeautiful  groves  of  it, — perfuming  the  atmosphere  and  revelling  in  peren- 
nial verdure. 

The  canon  before  referred  to,  is  caused  by  the  river  passing  through  a 
chain  of  hills,  for  a  reach  of  nearly  half  a  mile. 


MOUNTAIN  SHEEP.  121 

The  current  is  here  shut  in  by  banks  of  perpendicular  rock,  four  or  five 
hundred  feet  high,  which  sometimes  overhang  it,  and  leave  a  narrow  space 
of  scarcely  two  hundred  feet  for  its  bed.  These  consist  principally  of 
white  cretaceous  sandstone,  soft  and  friable,  and  frequently  present  to  view 
the  appearance  of  regular  mason-work. 

During  our  stay  we  succeeded  in  killing  five  mountain  sheep.  Some  of 
these  were  very  large  and  quite  fat. 

The  flesh  of  this  animal  is  equal  in  flavor  to  that  of  buffalo.  It  is  gener- 
ally in  good  order,  tender  and  sweet,  and  slightly  assimilates  our  common 
mutton  in  taste. 

The  habits  and  appearance  of  mountain  sheep  resemble  those  of  no 
other  animal. 

They  select  for  their  favorite  habitation  the  rugged  fastnesses  of  wild  and 
inaccessible  mountains.  In  the  cold  of  winter,  they  descend  to  some  of 
the  numerous  valleys  that  so  beautifully  diversify  the  scenery  of  these  re- 
gions, where  the  verdure  of  spring  so  rarely  fades ;  and,  as  the  warm  sea- 
son advances,  they  commence  their  return  towards  the  lofty  snow- 
peaks,  keeping  even  progress  with  spring  and  fresh  flowers  along  the 
mountain-sides. 

Theirs  is  a  life  of  unbroken  spring — beauty  and  grandeur  are  their 
dwelling  place, — and,  'mid  the  awe-inspiring  sublimity  of  nature's  works, 
is  their  home.  They  gambol  upon  the  fearful  verge  of  the  steep  cliff,  or 
climb  its  perpendicular  sides,  bidding  defiance  to  all  pursuers.  There, 
secure  from  enemies,  they  rear  their  young,  and  teach  them  to  leap  from 
crag  to  crag  in  mirthful  gaiety,  or  traverse  the  dizzy  heights  in  quest  of  the 
varied  sweets  of  changeful  spring. 

These  animals  are  remarkably  acute  of  sight,  and  quick  of  soent  and 
hearing.  The  least  noise  or  tainture  of  the  air  excites  their  attention  and 
places  them  instantly  upon  the  alert.  Mounting  upon  some  high  rock, 
they  will  stand  for  hours  in  the  same  posture,  gazing  in  the  direction  of 
the  fancied  danger.  If  fully  satisfied  of  its  reality,  they  abandon  their 
position  for  another  and  a  safer  one,  high  among  more  rugged  peaks,  and 
often  beyond  the  possibility  of  offensive  approach.  Their  hue  is  so  akin 
to  that  of  the  rocks  which  grace  their  range,  they  are  with  difficulty 
identified  when  standing  motionless,  and  the  hunter  is  constantly  liable  to 
mistake  the  one  for  the  other. 

In  size  the  mountain  sheep  is  larger  than  the  domestic  animal  of  that 
name,  and  its  general  appearance  is  in  every  respect  dissimilar — excepting 
the  head  and  horns.  The  latter  appendage,  however,  alike  belongs  to  the 
male  and  female.  The  horns  of  the  female  are  about  six  inches  long, 
small,  pointed,  and  somewhat  flat, — but  those  of  the  male  grow  to  an  enor- 
mous size.  I  have  frequently  killed  them  having  horns  that  measured  two 
feet  and  a  half  or  three  feet  in  length,  and  from  eighteen  to  nineteen  inches 
in  circumference  at  the  base. 

These  ponderous  members  are  of  great  service  to  their  owner  in  descend- 
ing the  abrupt  precipices,  which  his  habits  so  often  render  necessary.  In 
leaping  from  an  elevation  he  uniformly  strikes  upon  the  curve  of  his  horns, 
and  thus  saves  himself  from  the  shock  of  a  sudden  and  violent  contussion. 

The  color  of  these  animals  varies   from  a  yellowish  white,  to  a  dark 


122  DEVIL'S  GATE. 

brown,  or  oven  black.  A  strip  of  snowy  whiteness  extends  from  ham  to 
ham,  including  the  tail,  which  is  short  and  tipped  with  black. 

Instead  of  wool,  they  are  covered  with  hair,  which  is  shed  annually. 
Their  cry  is  much  like  that  of  domestic  sheep,  and  the  same  natural  odor 
is  common  to  both. 

It  is  extremely  difficult  to  capture  any  of  them  alive,  even  while  young, 
— and  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  make  them  live  and  thrive  in  any  other 
climate  than  their  own.  Hence,  the  mountain  sheep  has  never  yet  found 
a  place  in  our  most  extensive  zoological  collections. 

Remaining  three  days  at  this  place,  we  were  again  en  route,  and,  bear- 
ing to  the  right,  passed  over  a  ridge  of  rough,  rocky  summits,  and  struck 
the  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water.  Continuing  up  the  latter,  a  short  ride 
brought  us  to  the  vicinity  of  a  noted  landmark  of  the  country,  known  as 
Independence  Rock,  where  we  encamped. 

The  soil  of  the  river  bottoms  is  good,  but  the  adjoining  prairies  are 
sandy  and  somewhat  sterile. 

The  distance  from  this  to  the  canon  is  not  far  from  twenty-three  miles. 

Independence  Rock  is  a  solid  and  isolated  mass  of  naked  granite,  situated 
about  three  hundred  yards  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Sweet  Water.  It 
covers  an  area  of  four  or  five  acres,  and  rises  to  a  height  of  nearly  three  hun- 
dred feet.  The  general  shape  is  oval,  with  the  exception  of  a  slight  depres- 
sion in  its  summit  where  a  scanty  soil  supports  a  few  shrubs  and  a 
solitary  dwarf-pine. 

It  derives  its  name  from  a  party  of  Americans  on  their  way  to  Oregon, 
under  the  lead  of  one  Tharp,  who  celebrated  the  fourth  of  July  at  this 
place, — they  being  the  first  company  of  whites  that  ever  made  the  jour- 
ney from  the  States,  via  South  Pass. 

The  surface  is  covered  with  the  names  of  travellers,  traders,  trap- 
pers, and  emigrants,  engraven  upon  it  in  almost  every  practicable  part,  for 
the  distance  of  many  feet  above  its  base, — but  most  prominent  among  them 
all  is  the  word  "  Independence,"  inscribed  by  the  patriotic  band  who  first 
christened  this  lonely  monument  of  nature  in  honor  of  Liberty's  birthday. 

I  went  to  the  rock  for  the  purpose  of  recording  my  name  with  the 
swollen  catalogue  of  others  traced  upon  its  sides  ;  but,  having  glanced  over 
the  strange  medley,  I  became  disgusted,  and,  turning  away,  resolved,  "  If 
there  remains  no  other  mode  of  immortalizing  myself,  I  will  be  content  to 
descend  to  the  grave  '  unhonored  and  unsung?  " 

The  day  following,  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  and  sleet  forced  us  to  remain 
in  camp,  and  the  consequent  muddiness  of  the  route  prolonged  our  stay 
still  further. 

The  vicinity  afforded  an  abundance  of  game  and  a  sufficiency  of  dry  fuel ; 
it  would,  therefore,  have  been  folly  in  us  to  care  for  win^  or  weather, 
detracting  as  did  either  so  little  from  our  comfort. 

During  this  interval  I  rode  into  the  prairie  a  short  distance,  in  quest  of 
game,  and  struck  the  river  a  few  miles  above  camp,  at  a  place  where  the 
stream  cuts  its  way  through  a  high  ridge  of  hills,  forming  another  canon 


RETURN  ROUTE.  123 


of  three  or  four  hundred  yards  in  length  and  about  forty  broad,  called  the 
Devil's  Gate,  as  I  afterwards  ascertained. 

Its  walls  arose  perpendicularly  to  a  height  of  between  four  and  five  hun- 
dred feet,  and  consisted  of  trap  rock,  sandstone,  and  granite. 

Dismounting,  I  ascended  to  the  summit,  where  a  grand  and  picturesque 
scenery  burst  upon  the  view. 

Above,  the  broad  valley  of  the  Sweet  Water  stretched  far  away  to  the 
westward,  bounded  on  either  side  by  frowning  mountains,  that,  towering 
to  the  height  of  fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand  feet,  present  their  snowy 
summits  in  proud  defiance  of  wind  or  storm,  and  laugh  at  the  impotency 
of  a  summer's  sun ; — on  the  south,  shaking  their  piny  tops  in  scornful 
derision ;  and,  on  the  north,  with  denuded  crests  of  broken  granite,  chal- 
lenging the  lightnings  of  heaven  and  wooing  its  loudest  thunders  ; — while 
further  along,  the  clouds  played  in  humble  sportiveness  around  the  base  of 
the  great  chain  dividing  the  waters  of  two  oceans,  nor  dared  ascend  its 
dizzy  heights  to  range  amid  eternal  snow. 

Below,  in  silent  grandeur,  arose  to  view  the  grantic  mass  that  responds 
to  the  day-dawn  of  a  nation's  existence,  surmounted  by  its  lone  pine,  and 
bearing  upon  its  broad  register  the  sculptured  names  of  the  audacious 
disturbers  of  its  solitude ;  and  further  yet,  the  parti-colored  peaks  of  the 
Black  Hills,  now  white  with  fresh-fallen  snow,  now  darkened  with  clus- 
tering pines,  seemed  musing  in  modest  retirement;  while  far  around,  in 
every  spot  accessible  to  discriminating  vision,  dense  herds  of  grazing  buf- 
falo covered  the  prairie  with  their  pall-like  mantle  of  countless  numbers. 

It  was  indeed  a  magnificent  prospect,  and  needed  only  the  garnishing 
hand  of  spring  to  render  it  at  as  enchanting  in  loveliness  as  it  was  impres- 
sive in  wild  sublimitv. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Return  route. — Oregon  trail  from  Independence  Rock  through  the  South  Pass. — 
Cross  the  Sweet  Water  and  Platte.— Mountain  Fowl.— Journey  up  Medicine 
Bow. — Dangerous  country. — A  fight  with  the  Sioux. — The  "  Carcague." — A.  sur- 
prise.— Visit  to  the  Crow  village. — Number  and  character  of  the  Crow  nation  — 
Selling  a  prisoner  for  tobacco. — Description  of  Laramie  Plains. 

Previously  to  leaving  this  place,  considerable  discussion  arose  relative 
to  our  future  course. 

The  proposition  was  to  continue  up  the  Sweet  Water  valley  to  the 
dividing  ridge  at  the  head  of  Green  river,  and  return  by  the  same  rou,te  ;— 
versus  the  suggestion  to  cross  the  Sweet  Water  and  proceed  up  the  Platte 
to  the  confluence  of  a  large  tributary  from  the  south  ;  thence,  keeping  by 
the  valley  of  the  latter  stream  as  far  as  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains,  re 
turn  to  the  Fort  by  the  way  of  Laramie  river. 

11* 


124  VICINITY  OF  THE  MEDICINE  BOW. 

The  fast  melting  of  the  snow,  and  anticipated  difficulties,  not  to  say 
dangers,  consequent  upon  high  water  in  the  passage  of  creeks  and  rivers, 
influenced  us  to  adopt  the  latter  as  the  most  advisable  course. 

Such  was  the  final  decision,  and,  the  men  with  me  being  familiarly 
acquainted  witM  every  nook  and  corner  of  the  adjacent  country,  I  improved 
the  opportunity  to  elicit  from  them  all  possible  information  relative  to  the 
Oregon  route  from  this  onward ;  and,  never  having  personally  travelled 
from  Independence  Rock  to  the  head  of  Green  river,  it  may  not  be  out  of 
place  to  lay  before  the  reader  a  succinct  statement  of  some  of  the  items 
thus  gleaned. 

The  distance  from  this  point  to  the  famous  South  Pass  is  but  little  over 
one  hundred  miles.  The  trail  follows  the  Sweet  Water  to  its  source, 
keeping  the  river  valley  for  most  of  the  distance.  This  valley  consists  of 
an  undulating  prairie,  (at  intervals  rough,)  varying  in  width  from  the 
narrow  limits  of  a  few  yards  to  the  more  ample  dimensions  of  four  or  five 
miles. 

Sometimes,  the  adjoining  hills  close  in  upon  the  river  banks  and  force 
the  trail  among  their  rugged  windings.  In  one  place  the  road  leads  over  a 
high  stretch  of  table  land  for  nearly  a  day's  travel,  when  it  again  descends 
to  the  valley. 

The  stream,  in  places,  is  tolerably  well  timbered  with  Cottonwood,  oak, 
and  aspen,  and  rolls  over  a  rocky  bed,  with  a  clear  and  swift  current. 

The  distance  through  the  pass  is  about  fifteen  miles,  and  the  ascent 
and  descent  are  so  gradual  the  traveller  would  scarcely  notice  the  transi- 
tion from  the  head  of  the  Sweet  Water  to  that  of  the  Colorado.  The  hills 
at  this  point  are  low,  and  the  face  of  the  country  rolling — but  not  rough, 
affording  at  all  times  a  most  excellent  waggon  road. 

On  the  morning  of  the  fourth  day,  we  accordingly  retraced  our  course, 
and,  having  traversed  a  rugged  and  hilly  country  for  some  ten  or  twelve 
miles,  we  camped  in  a  small  open  prairie  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sweet 
Wat  r. 

During  our  ride  we  noticed  several  large  bands  of  wild  sheep,  at  inter- 
vals, gazing  upon  us  from  huge  masses  of  granite  that  towered  with 
isolated  summits  to  a  frequent  altitude  of  sixty  or  one  hundred  feet. 

The  next  morning,  we  crossed  the  Sweet  Water  a  little  above  its 
mouth. 

The  ford  was  quite  feasible,  the  stream  being  some  ten  yards  wide  and 
three  or  four  feet  deep,  with  a  bed  of  sand  and  pebbles. 

From  this  point,  travelling  up  the  Platte  for  about  ten  miles  or  more, 
we  arrived  opposite  the  creek  previously  alluded  to,  and,  crossing  at  a  shoal 
place  a  short  distance  above,  camped  in  a  grove  of  Cottonwood  and 
willows,  at  the  delta  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  two  streams. 

There  are  several  bottoms  of  very  rich  soil  in  this  vicinity ;  but  back 
from  the  river  the  country  is  rough  and  hilly. 

Westward  the  Sweet  Water  mountains,  distant  some  ten  miles,  showed 
their  craggy  peaks,  and  to  the  north  and  east  the  piny  crests  of  the  Black 
Hills  burst  upon  the  sight ;  while  southward,  a  succession  of  high,  rolling 
prairies  opened  to  view  a  variety  of  romantic  and  beautiful  scenery. 


i 


A  CROW  WARRIOR.— P«^  125. 


A  FIGHT  WITH  THE  SIOUX.  125 


We  remained  at  this  place  the  two  following  days,  for  the  purpose  of 
hunting.  Game  of  all  kinds  appeared  in  great  abundance,  particularly 
elk.  At  several  points  among  the  willows  near  the  river  were  noticed 
fresh  signs  of  beaver,  and  among  the  hills  the  recent  marks  of  bear  in 
digging  for  roots. 

A  large  bird  called  the  mountain  fowl,  quite  common,  to  these  parts,  was 
the  occasion  of  some  little  curiosity,  being  the  first  of  its  species  I  ever 
saw.  This  bird  is  rather  larger  than  our  domestic  hen,  and  of  a  grayish 
brown  color.  Little  accustomed  to  the  presence  of  man,  it  easily  falls  a 
prey  to  the  hunter.     Its  flesh  is  tender  and  most  excellent  in  flavor. 

Having  obtained  a  fresh  supply  of  meat,  we  resumed  our  course. 

Continuing  up  the  right  bank  of  the  creek  (whiclj  I  have  named  Medi- 
cine Bow,  for  lack  of  a  better  term)  and  travelling  by  easy  stages  four 
successive  days,  we  arrived  at  its  head, — a  distance  of  more  than  fifty 
miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Platte. 

Many  beautiful  bottoms  skirted  the  banks  of  this  stream,  which  were 
well  timbered  with  Cottonwood,  aspen,  birch,  willow,  box-elder,  and  some 
few  pines.  The  soil  is  generally  of  a  reddish  loam,  and  the  luxuriant  size  of 
the  dead  grass,  together  with  the  rank  verdure  of  the  present  season,  gave 
evidence  of  its  richness  and  fecundity. 

I  was  pleased  to  observe  not  a  few  wild  flowers,  of  rare  beauty,  in  full 
bloom,  lending  their  fragrance  to  the  breath  of  spring,  and  blushing  at  the 
admiration  challenged  by  their  loveliness. 

On  the  right  lay  a  broad  expanse  of  undulating  prairie,  covered  witli 
stately  clusters  of  absinthe,  and  disclosing  every  variety  of  soil,  from  the 
rude  sterility  of  an  African  desert  to  the  rich  productiveness  of  a  garden  ; — 
on  the  left,  the  mountains,  increasing  in  altitude,  jutted  their  craggy  sides 
in  close  proximity  to  the  creek — now  disclosing  immense  piles  of  granite, 
with  red  argillaceous,  grayish  micaceous,  dark  ferruginous,  and  white 
calcareous  sandstone,  limestone,  and  coarse-grained  conglomerates,  naked 
and  variegated  with  almost  every  diversity  of  color, — and  now,  surmounted 
by  stunted  pines  and  cedars,  or  towering  balsam,  hemlock  and  pinion ; 
and  in  front,  the  lofty  peaks  of  Medicine  Bow,  rearing  their  snowy  heads 
beyond  the  clouds,  opposed  an  eternal  barrier  to  further  prospect. 

As  we  passed  along,  I  noticed  three  or  four  small  branches  that  emptied 
into  the  creek  from  the  opposite  side,  and,  just  before  reaching  our  present 
encampment,  we  crossed  three  others  from  the  right,  all  of  them  well  tim- 
bered and  graced  by  rich  valleys  and  prairillons. 

This  section  of  country,  being  the  great  war-ground  between  the  Sioux 
and  Chyennes  on  the  one  side,  and  the  Snakes  and  Crows  on  the  other,  is 
considered  dangerous,  particularly  from  May  till  November  of  each  year. 
During  that  time  it  is  extremely  unsafe  for  a  white  man  to  venture  within 
its  confines,  unless  protected  by  a  strong  force. 

A  small  creek,  at  our  right,  became  the  scene  of  a  bloody  tragedy  two 
months  subsequent  to  our  visit. 

Three  trappers,  with  whom  I  became  acquainted  upon  my  return  to  the 
Fort,  -tempted  by  the  abundance  of  fur-bearing  game  common  to  the 
vicinity,  came  here  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  summer  hunt.  While 
successfully  pursuing  their  occupation,  unsuspicious  of  immediate  danger. 


126  LARAMIE  PASS. 

they  were  suddenly  surrounded,  early  one  morning,  by  a  war-party  of  Sioux, 
whose  first  salute  was  a  discharge  of  fire-arms,  accompanied  by  a  shower 
of  arrows  and  the  sharp  thunder  of  deafening  yells. 

Two  of  them  fell  dead.  The  remaining  one  retreated  to  a  hollow  tree, 
close  at  hand,  into  which  he  crawled ;  and,  though  severely  wounded, 
maintained  from  it  an  obstinate  resistance  till  near  sundown, — keep'ngat 
bay  the  whole  host  of  savage  assailants,  and  thinning  their  numbers,  one 
by  one,  with  the  deadly  discharge  of  his  unerring  rifle. 

Six  warriors  lay  stiffened  in  death,  and  as  many  more  had  felt  the  burn- 
ing smart  of  wounds, — one  of  the  latter  having  had  his  tongue  shot  out,  close 
to  its  roots  ! — and  still  he  continued  the  unequal  contest. 

His  triumph  would  have  been  complete  had  not  the  remorseless  crew,  as 
a  last  resort,  set  fire  to  the  woods  and  burned  him  from  the  shell-like  for- 
tress from  which  they  could  not  drive  him. 

He  fell  with  his  companions,  mingling  his  own  blood  with  that  of  their 
murderers ;  and  the  scalps  of  the  three  were  treasured  among  the  horrid 
trophies  of  savage  victory. 

Of  these  unfortunate  men,  one,  named  Wheeler,  was  a  Pennsylvanian  ; 
another,  named  Cross  Eagle,  was  a  Swede;  and  the  third,  name  not  re- 
membered, was  a  native  of  France.  They  were  men  of  noble  hearts  and 
much  esteemed  by  all  who  knew  them. 

In  the  neighborhood  I  noticed  many  indications  of  coal,  of  which  there 
appeared  to  be  extensive  beds,  as  well  as  iron  and  mineral  salts. 

Continuing  on,  a  short  ride  brought  us  to  the  pass-trail,  following  which, 
after  travelling  a  few  miles  by  a  road  intercepted  by  frequent  ravines  be- 
tween a  defile  of  mountains,  we  were  finally  ushered  into  the  broad  prairie, 
opening  eastward,  known  as  the  Plains  of  Laramie. 

The  mountains  upon  both  sides  were  heavily  coated  with  snow,  which 
intruded  to  the  trail,  while  groves  of  pine  and  aspen  relieved  the  eye  in 
scanning  their  rough  escarpments. 

The  prevailing  rock  appeared  to  be  a  compact  red  granite,  with  occasional 
strata  of  sandstone. 

While  winding  among  the  ravines  and  aspen  groves,  we  obtained  an  in- 
distinct view  of  a  strange-looking,  dark-colored  animal,  that  my  companions 
pronounced  a  "  carcague" 

Of  the  character,  or  even  the  existence  of  such  a  creature,  I  cannot 
speak  from  positive  knowledge — this,  if  one,  not  being  sufficiently  near  for 
a  scrutinizing  observation,  and  no  other  of  its  kind  ever  came  in  my  way ; 
but,  in  answer  to  inquiries,  I  am  enabled  to  give  the  following  description, — 
for  the  correctness  of  which,  however,  I  will  not  vouch,  though,  for  my  own 
part,  inclined  to  accredit  it.  * 

The  "  carcague  "  is  a  native  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  of  a  family 
and  species  found  in  no  other  part  of  the  world  as  yet  known.  He  seems 
a  distinct  genus,  partaking  the  mixed  nature  of  the  wolf  and  bear,  but  is  far 
more  ferocious  than  either. 

His  color  is  a  jet  black,  hair  long  and  coarse,  and  body  trim  and  slender. 
His  head  and  neck  are  like  those  of  a  wolf,  but  his  tail  and  feet  assimilate 
he  bear,  and  his  body  presents  the  marked  qualities  and  appearance  of  both. 


A  SURPRISE.  127 

In  size,  he  is  considerably  larger  than  the  common  cur-dog,  and  is  more 
agile  in  his  movements.  Unlike  the  bear,  he  will  not  run  from  the  presence 
or  scent  of  man,  and  regards  the  "  lord  of  creation  "  with  neither  fear  nor 
favor.  Hence  he  is  looked  upon  as  a  creature  much  to  be  dreaded  by  all 
who  are  anywise  conversant  with  his  character  and  existence. 

The  representatives  of  his  family  are  seldom  met  with,  which  affords  the 
principal  reason  why  so  little,  comparatively,  is  known  of  his  nature  and 
habits. 

If  the  information  contained  in  the  above  description  is  correct,  (and  tkat 
it  is  so,  I  have  not  the  least  doubt,)  the  "carcague  "  presents,  either  the  ex- 
traordinary phenomenon  of  the  creation  of  a  new  race  of  wild  beasts,  or, 
the  living  relics  of  an  order  now  almost  extinct ;  and,  whether  he  be  the  one 
or  the  other,  his  existence  is  vested  with  deep  interest  to  all  lovers  of  the 
marvellous. 

An  old  trapper  related  the  following  story,  soon  after  the  incident  above 
noticed,  which  will  serve  to  give  some  idea  of  this  ferocious  animal : 

A  party  of  hunters,  at  their  night  camp,  were  seated  around  a  large  fire, 
at  whose  side  were  fixed  several  pieces  of  meat,  en  appolas,  for  the  purpose 
of  roasting.  All  were  waiting  patiently  the  kind  office  of  the  fire  in  the 
preparation  of  their  longed-for  suppers,  when,  attracted  by  the  fumes  of 
the  cooking  viands,  a  "  carcague  "  came  bounding  from  the  mountain-side, 
directly  over  their  heads,  and  made  for  the  roasts,  with  which  he  disappeared 
before  even  a  shot  could  be  fired  in  their  defence. 

Thus  bold  and  daring  is  their  nature,  and  so  little  is  their  regard  for  the 
presence  of  man. 

Bearing  southward,  in  the  course  of  a  few  miles  we  came  to  a  large 
creek,  and  camped  early  in  the  afternoon,  near  the  base  of  a  lofty  mountain 
of  the  Medicine  Bow  range. 

In  this  vicinty  were  the  relics  of  three  Indians  forts.  On  the  banks  of 
the  stream  was  an  abundance  of  timber  of  various  kinds ;  the  bottoms 
were  broad  and  of  a  rich  soil,  shut  in  by  abrupt  acclivities  that  lead  to  the 
arid  plains  through  which  *the  creek  traces  its  way. 

Game  appeared  in  great  abundance  in  all  directions,  and  seemed  more 
than  usually  tame  and  accessible. 

Soon  after  camping,  three  of  us  went  in  quest  of  a  fresh  supply  of  eat- 
ables, and,  towards  night,  returned  with  the  choice  portions  of  a  buffalo 
and  a  black-tailed  dear. 

The  valley  also  afforded  large  quantities  of  wild  onions,  which  were 
shooting  forth  with  singular  luxuriance. 

We  passed  the  night  in  quiet  slumber,  neither  of  us  dreaming  of  the 
possible  existence  of  human  beings,  other  than  ourselves,  within  a  less 
distance  than  one  hundred  miles. 

In  the  morning,  however,  we  were  awakened  by  the  wild  yell  of  savages, 
and,  on  looking  to  ascertain  the  cause,  saw  a  dense  throng  of  painted 
monsters  surrounding  us,  who  were  whooping,  screeching,  and  dancing  ir 
a  most  terrific  and  fantastic  manner.  Seizing  our  guns,  we  levelled  at  th? 
foremost  of  them,  who  immediately  sheathed  their  bows  and  made  the  sign 
of  friendship  and  their  nation. 


128  A  TEMPERANCE  NATION. 

They  were  Crows,  and,  having  discovered  us  the  afternoon  before,  now 
came  for  a  morning  call. 

The  chief  of  the  band  bore  the  name  of  Little  Robber,  and  was  a  large, 
portly,  well-made  man,  as,  in  fact,  were  all  his  party.  He  was  recognized 
by  one  of  us  as  an  old  acquaintance,  and  was  greeted  as  such,  when  several 
of  his  people  came  forward  to  shake  hands,  and  we  were  soon  on  most 
friendly  terms. 

They  informed  us,  by  means  of  signs,  that  they  were  advancing  against 
the  Sioux,  and  their  village  was  encamped  upon  a  neighboring  creek,  a 
little  to  the  right, — after  which  they  insisted  upon  our  accompanying  them 
to  it. 

Not  waiting  for  further  ceremony,  they  drove  up  our  horses  and  com- 
menced saddling  them.  Supposing  it  useless  to  resist,  we  yielded  compli- 
ance to  their  wishes,  and,  in  about  an  hour's  ride,  came  to  the  village. 
Here  we  were  inducted  to  the  chief's  lodge,  where  commenced  a  series  ol 
feastings  peculiar  to  Indians  on  occasions  like  this. 

The  Crows  are  a  nation  living  upon  the  waters  of  the  Yellow -stone,  at 
a  distance  of  about  four  hundred  miles  west-northwest  of  Fort  Platte. 
Their  number  embraces  not  far  from  four  hundred  and  fifty  or  five  hundred 
lodges,  being  something  near  four  thousand  men,  women,  and  children. 

Ten  or  twelve  years  since  they  were  enemies  to  the  whites,  but,  more 
recently,  have  been  on  friendly  terms. 

They  never  kill  or  injure  the  white  man  who  comes  within  their  power, 
and  rarely  take  from  him  anything  without  returning  for  it  an  equivalent. 
For  instance, — they  may  take  his  robe,  horse,  or  gun ;  but,  in  that  case, 
they  will  return  another  robe,  horse,  or  gun ;  acting  upon  the  principle 
that  "  exchange  is  no  robbery,"  even  though  it  be  compulsory. 

Less  contaminated  by  intercourse  with  the  whites  than  most  mountain 
tribes,  they  will  tolerate  the  importation  of  liquor  among  them  upon  no  con- 
sideration, not  even  by  traders  for  their  own  individual  use.  Whenever  it 
is  ascertained  that  any  one  in  their  vicinity,  whether  white  man  or  Indian, 
is  in  possession  of  that  article,  they  take  it  from  -him,  if  necessary,  by  force, 
and  pour  it  upon  the  ground. 

Their  bitter  hatred  of  this  vile  stuff,  is-  said  to  have  resulted  in  the  fol- 
lowing strange  manner : 

The  whites,  as  usual,  came  first  among  them  bringing  alcohol ;  and,  at  a 
feast  given  to  the  chiefs,  soon  after,  several  of  the  latter  became  intoxicated 
from  too  lavish  potations  of  the  new  and  curious  drink. 

In  common  with  inebriates  of  civilized  society,  they  acted  very  foolishly, 
and,  on  appearing  before  their  people,  the  drunken  chiefs  became  the  sub- 
ject of  ridicule.  This  so  shamed  them,  that,  upon  the  return  of  sobriety, 
they  could  not  be  persuaded  to  taste  another  drop,  and  thereafter  made  use 
of  their  united  influence  to  prevent  its  introduction  and  sale. 

Ever  since  the  above  occurrence,  alcohol  has  received,  from  the  Crows, 
the  appellation  of  "  FooVs  Water"  a  term  at  once  attesting  their  nice 
moral  discernment  and  good  sense. 

Several  years  since,  a  missionary,  on  visiting  them,  began  through 
an  interpreter  to  rehearse  the  story  how  sin  first  came  into  the  world, 
and  how  al   men  had  become  bad — whether  white  or  red. 


CROW  WAR  PARTY.  129 

Thus  premised,  he  proceeded  to  explain  the  great  truths  of  Chris- 
tianity, and  averred  that  he  had  come  to  do  them  good,  and  to  tell  them 
how  to  be  happy;  asserting  that,  unless  they  listened  to  him  and  wor- 
shipped the  Good  Spirit  in  the  manner  he  pointed  out,  they  could  never, 
at  death,  reach  that  happy  country  into  which  good  people  alone  find 
admittance. 

One  of  the  chiefs  upon  this  arose  and  made  the  following  reply : 

"  My  white  brother  is  a  stranger  to  us.  He  talks  bad  of  us,  and  he  talks 
bad  of  his  own  people. 

"  He  does  this  because  he  is  ignorant.  He  thinks  my  people,  like  his, 
are  wicked.     Thus  far  he  is  wrong ! 

"  Who  were  they  that  killed  the  very  good  man  of  whom  he  tells  us  ? 
None  of  them  were  red  men ! 

"  The  red  man  will  die  for  good  men,  who  are  his  friends ; — he  will  not 
kill  them ! 

"  Let  my  pale-face  brother  talk  to  the  white  man — his  own  people — they 
are  very  bad.  He  says,  he  would  do  us  good !  He  does  no  good  to  chide 
us  and  say  we  are  very  bad. 

"  True  we  are  bad ;  and  were  we  bad  as  the  pale-faces  it  would  become 
us  to  listen  to  him ! 

"  Would  my  brother  do  us  good  ?  Then,  let  him  tell  us  how  to  make 
powder  and  we  will  believe  in  the  sincerity  of  his  professions  ; — but  let  him 
not  belie  us  by  saying  we  are  bad  like  the  pale-faces  !" 

These  Indians  rarely  kill  the  women  and  children  of  an  enemy  when  in 
their  power,  and,  in  this  particular,  they  show  themselves  unlike  most  of 
the  wild  tribes  found  on  the  American  continent. 

They  are  a  brave  and  noble  people,  prosecuting  their  endless  hostilities 
against  the  Sioux  and  Blackfeet,  (the  only  nations  with  whom  they  are  at 
variance,)  not  so  much  to  gratify  an  innate  love  for  war,  as  from  a  just 
hatred  of  the  meanness  of  those  they  war  against. 

In  the  summer  of  1842,  a  war-party  of  some  two  hundred  Crows  inva- 
ded the  Sioux  country  by  way  of  Laramie  pass,  and  penetrated  as  far  as 
Fort  Platte,  and  beyond,  in  pursuit  of  their  enemy. 

A  few  miles  above  the  Fort,  having  met  with  a  lone  French  engage,  who 
was  rather  green  in  all  .that  pertains  to  Indians  as  well  as  some  other 
things,  they  began  by  signs  to  enquire  of  him  the  whereabouts  of  the  La- 
cotas,  (the  sign  for  them  being  a  transverse  pass  of  the  right  front-finger 
across  the  throat.) 

The  poor  Frenchman,  mistaking  this  for  the  avowed  intention  of  cutting 
Ms  throat,  commenced  bellowing  a  la  calf,  accompanying  the  music  by  an 
industrious  appliance  of  crosses  in  double-quick  time — not  forgetting  to 
make  use  of  sundry  most  earnest  invocations  of  the  blessed  Virgin  to  gra- 
ciously vouchsafe  to  him  deliverance  from  impending  danger. 

The  Indians,  perceiving  his  strange  conduct  to  be  the  result  of  fear,  felt 
disposed  to  have  a  little  fun  at  his  expense;  so,  mounting  him  upon  ahorse, 
they  bound  his  hands  and  feet  and  guarded  him  to  a  post  of  the  Ameri 
can  Fur  Company  as  a  prisoner. 


130  PLAINS  OF  LARAMIE. 

The  Fort  gates  being  closed  against  them,  they  demanded  admittance 
on  the  plea  of  wishing  to  trade. 

"  What  would  you  buy  ?"  asked  the  commandant. 

"  Tobacco." 

"  What  have  you  brought  to  pay  for  it  ?" 

"  A  white  man." 

"  A  white  man  ?"  exclaimed  the  former ;  "  at  what  price  ?" 

"  Oh,  he  is  not  worth  much.  A  plug  of  tobacco  is  his  full  value  !"  con- 
tinued the  warriors. 

The  commandant  now  began  to  understand  the  joke;  and,  on  recognizing 
the  prisoner  as  an  employee  of  the  other  Fort,  he  told  them  they  might 
possibly  find  a  market  for  him  at  the  next  post,  but  for  his  own  part  he  was 
not  disposed  to  purchase. 

The  Indians  then  paraded  around  the  Fort,  and,  after  saluting  its  in- 
mates with  three  deafening  whoops,  proceeded  at  full  charge  towards  Fort 
Platte. 

When  arrived,  having  prostrated  two  scaffolds  of  dead  Sioux  by  the 
way,  they  informed  the  person  in  charge,  that  they  had  brought  back  one 
of  his  men,  and  claimed  from  him  a  plug  of  tobacco  for  their  trouble. 
The  circumstances  attending  this  request  were  of  so  comical  a  nature,  the 
commandant  felt  disposed  to  humor  the  joke,  and  gave  the  tobacco,  upon 
which  they  immediately  left  in  pursuit  of  their  enemies. 

Having  remained  prisoners  to  the  hospitality  of  these  Indians  for  two 
days  and  a  half,  we  were  at  length  permitted  again  to  resume  our  journey. 

Following  the  creek  downwards  for  the  two  days  next  succeeding,  and 
then  bearing  to  the  left,  after  a  ride  of  some  twelve  miles,  we  struck  Lara- 
mie river  at  a  point  which  presented  broad  bottoms  upon  each  side  w  ith  an 
abundance  of  timber ;  here  we  remained  encamped  till  the  subsequent  day. 

In  journeying  thus  far,  we  passed  over  a  sufficient  extent  of  this  broad 
expanse  to  give  a  general  description  of  it,  from  personal  observation  coup- 
led with  information  derived  from  others  more  experienced. 

The  Plains  of  Laramie  are  bounded  north  and  east  by  the  Black  Hills, 
south  by  a  ridge  of  naked  elevations,  (composed  of  soft,  arenaceous  rock 
and  terrene  limestone,  embedded  in  marl  and  white  clay,  sterile  and  almost 
entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,)  and  west  by  the  Medicine  Bow  Moun- 
tains. 

This  section  includes  an  area  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  long  by 
seventy  broad. 

The  northern  portion  of  it  is  a  high  plateau,  almost  destitute  of  springs 
or  streams  of  water,  having  a  mixed  soil  of  clay  and  sand,  producing  the 
grass  and  other  peculiarities  incident  to  the  grand  prairies.  Westerly,  it 
is  composed  of  red  sand  and  gravel,  tolerably  fertile  and  abundant  in  rocky 
fragments.  The  southern  portion  is  watered  by  a  number  of  streams  that 
rise  in  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains  and  flow  eastward ;  some  of  them 
pouring  their  waters  into  Laramie  river,  and  others  losing  themselves  in 
the  sand. 

Towards  the  southwestern  extremity,  at  the  base  of  a  lofty,  isolated 
mountain,  is  a  salt  lake  of  considerable  dimensions.     Several  other  lakes 


INCIDENTAL  REMARKS.  131 

are  also  found  adjacent  to  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains,  whose  waters 
are  strongly  impregnated  with  mineral  salts. 

In  numerous  places  the  surface,  for  small  distances,  is  entirely  naked 
and  whitened  with  saline  efflorescences,  that  vie  in  their  appearance  with 
the  unspotted  purity  of  fresh-fallen  snow. 

The  Laramie  river  *  traces  its  way  through  the  whole  extent, — rising  in 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains  and  in  the  desolate 
highlands  that  form  the  dividing  ridge  between  its  own  and  the  waters  of 
Cache  a  la  Poudre,  and,  after  flowing  a  distance  of  some  three  hundred 
miles,  discharges  itself  into  the  Platte. 

Upon  this  river  and  its  branches  are  many  beautiful  bottoms  of  rich  al- 
luvial soil,  well  adapted  to  cultivation,  varying  from  five  to  ten  miles  in 
length,  and  from  two  to  five  in  breadth.  These  bottoms  are  to  some  ex- 
tent well  supplied  with  timber,  consisting  of  ash,  elm,  Cottonwood,  box- 
elder,  and  willow,  while  the  adjacent  mountains  and  hills  aflbrd  pine,  cedar, 
and  balsam. 

Of  the  various  kinds  of  wild  fruits  and  berries  are  found  cherries,  plums, 
currants,  gooseberries,  service-berries,  buffalo-berries,  and  some  few 
grapes ;  among  its  vegetables  and  roots  are  the  bread-root,  pomme  blanc, 
onions,  and  commote. 

Its  prevailing  rock  is  sandstone,  (gray  micaceous,  brown  argillaceous, 
red  granitic,  and  ferruginous,)  limestone,  (siliceous,  testaceous,  fossilifer- 
ous,  and  terrene,)  and  red  granite,  with  various  conglomerates  and  heavy 
boulders  of  fragmentary  and  transition  rock. 

Among  the  mineral  productions  incident  to  this  region  are  salt,  sulphur, 
soda,  magnesia,  nitre,  alum,  coal,  iron,  copper,  and  gold,  (the  latter  only  in 
small  quantities.)  Among  its  game  is  embraced  nearly  every  variety 
found  in  countries  adjacent  to  the  mountains. 

The  high  prairies  skirting  the  tributaries  of  the  Laramie,  though  favored 
with  many  valleys  of  fertile  soil,  are  fit  only  for  grazing  purposes,  on  ac- 
count of  their  general  aridity  and  scarcity  of  water ;  a  fault,  by  the  way, 
too  common  with  a  large  proportion  of  that  vast  extent  of  territory  from 
the  neighborhood  of  our  western  frontiers  almost  to  the  very  shores  of  the 
Pacific. 

*  This  river  received  its  present  name  from  one  Joseph  Laramie,  a  French  crap  , 
per,  who  was  killed  near  its  mouth,  several  years  since,  by  the  Indians. 


12 


132 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Sibille's-hole. — Novel  bitters. — Chugwater. — Gold. — Curiosity. — Affairs  at  the  Fort. 
— Amusements. — Gambling  among  squaws,  and  games  played.— Squaw  dresses, 
and  riding  fashion. — Items  of  interest  to  the  curious,  proving  the  intercourse  of 
the  ancient  Romans  with  the  people  of  this  continent. 

On  resuming  our  course,  we  soon  after  struck  into  a  lodge-trail  leading 
to  the  Platte  by  way  of  Sibille's  creek  ; — following  this  we  travelled  over 
an  undulating  and  sandy  prairie  for  about  ten  miles,  and  came  to  a  chain 
of  rugged  mountains,  bearing  from  north  to  south,  through  which  we  pas- 
sed, by  a  tedious  and  circuitous  route,  for  a  considerable  distance,  winding 
among  rocks  and  narrow  defiles  of  naked  hills,  till  we  were  finally  ushered 
into  a  beautiful  opening  facing  the  east,  known  as  Sibille's-hole. 

This  valley  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  two  small  streams,  heading 
in  the  adjoining  mountains,  that  unite  to  form  Sibille's  creek. 

It  is  shut  in  upon  three  sides  by  lofty  ridges,  many  hundred  feet  high, 
consisting  of  immense  piles  of  earthy  limestone  and  marl,  whose  rough, 
naked  sides,  ornamented  with  occasional  dwarf-pines,  cedars,  or  fruit-bear- 
ing shrubs,  present  a  wild  and  romantic  scenery. 

The  valley  is  four  or  five  miles  in  length  and  of  variable  width,  with  a 
strong,  black  soil,  affording  a  goodly  supply  of  timber. 

The  season  was  further  advanced  in  this  than  in  any  other  place  we  had 
yet  visited.  Several  specimens  of  wild  flowers  were  in  full  bloom,  belading 
the  soft  air  with  their  sweetest  odors.  The  grass  too  had  attained  a  height 
of  some  three  inches,  and  furnished  a  most  sumptuous  entertainment  for  our 
jaded  animals,  which  they  were  nowise  backward  to  accept. 

Wishing  to  afford  them  an  opportunity  to  recruit  their  strength,  we  re- 
mained encamped  the  two  following  days. 

During  the  interval  we  were  successful  in  killing  two  very  fat  bulls,  and 
were  thus  enabled  to  renew  the  series  of  feasting  which  had  graced  the 
greater  part  of  our  journey. 

I  here  became  for  the  first  time  acquainted  with  a  kind  of  beverage  very 
common  among  mountaineers.  The  article  alluded  to  may  with  much  pro- 
priety be  termed  "  bitters,"  as  the  reader  will  readily  acknowledge  on  learn- 
ing the  nature  of  its  principal  ingredient. 

It  is  prepared  by  the  following  simple  process,  viz :  with  one  pint  of  water 
mix  one-fourth  gill  of  buffalo-gall,  and  you  will  then  have  before  you  a 
wholesome  and  exhilarating  drink. 

To  a  stomach  unaccustomed  to  its  use  it  may  at  first  create  a  slightly 
noisome  sensation,  like  the  inceptive  effects  of  an  emetic ;  and,  to  one 


CHUG  WATER.  133 

strongly  bilious,  it  might  cause  vomiting ; — but,  on  the  second  or  third  trial, 
the  stomach  attains  a  taste  for  it,  and  receives  it  with  no  inconsiderable 
relish. 

Upon  the  whole  system  its  effects  are  beneficial.  As  a  stimulent,  it 
braces  the  nerves  without  producing  a  corresponding  relaxation  on  the  ces- 
sation of  its  influence ;  it  also  tends  to  restore  an  impared  appetite  and  in- 
vigorate the  digestive  powers. 

As  a  sanative,  it  tends  to  make  sound  an  irritated  and  ulcerated  stomach, 
reclaiming  it  to  a  healthful  and  lively  tone,  and  thus  striking  an  effective 
blow  at  that  most  prolific  source  of  so  large  a  majority  of  the  diseases 
common  to  civilzed  life. 

From  what  I  have  seen  of  its  results,  I  consider  it  one  of  the  most  inno- 
cent and  useful  medicines  in  cases  of  dyspepsy,  and  will  hazard  the  further 
opinion,  that,  were  those  laboring  under  the  wasting  influences  of  this  dis- 
ease to  drink  gall-bitters  and  confine  themselves  exclusively  to  the  use  of 
some  one  kind  of  diet,  (animal  food  always  preferable,)  thousands  who  are 
now  pining  away  by  piecemeal,  would  be  restored  to  perfect  soundness,  and 
snatched  from  the  very  threshold  of  a  certain  grave  which  yawns  to  receive 
them ! 

Resuming  our  course,  we  continued  down  Sibillis  creek  to  its  junction 
with  the  Laramie  ;  then,  following  the  course  of  that  river,  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  third  day  we  arrived  at  Fort  Platte,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  two 
months, — having  travelled,  in  the  interval,  a  distance  of  more  than  five 
hundred  miles. 

To  give  a  general  description  of  the  country  passed  over  during  the 
concluding  part  of  our  journey,  would  seem  too  much  like  a  recapitulation 
of  previous  remarks. 

Our  observations  in  reference  to  the  river  and  creek  bottoms,  may  be 
again  correctly  applied  ;  as  may,  also,  those  relative  to  the  timber,  and  the 
geological  character  of  the  adjoining  prairies. 

Several  miles  above  the  Fort  we  crossed  the  Chugwater,  a  large  affluent 
of  the  Laramie,  from  the  right.  This  creek  takes  its  rise  in  a  wild  and 
desolate  section  of  the  Black  Hills,  near  the  head  of  Horse  creek. 

Thirty  miles  or  more  of  its  way  is  traced  through  a  dreary  wilder- 
ness of  rock,  sand,  and  clay,  almost  entirely  devoid  of  vegetation. 

This  region,  it  is  said,  affords  gold  ;  and,  indeed,  I  have  received  fre- 
quent assurances  that  that  valuable  metal  has  been  procured,  in  small  par- 
ticles, from  among  the  sand  of  the  creek-bed. 

This  region  also  claims  many  natural  curiosities,  of  which  I  may  take 
occasion  to  speak  more  particularly  hereafter ; — one,  however,  situated 
upon  Chugwater,  here  seems  more  appropriately  to  demand  a  passing 
notice. 

It  consists  of  a  columnar  elevation  of  sandstone  and  marl,  towering 
aloft  to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet,  like  the  lone  chimney  of  some 
razed  mansion, — standing  as  the  melancholy  monument  of  the  ruins  that 
surround  it. 

This  singular  pile  of  rock  and  earth  is  nearly  of  a  quadrangular  form, 
quite  regular  in  its  structure,  and  compares  very  nearly  with  the  "  Chim- 


134  FEMALE  GAMBLERS. 

ney  "  below  Scot's  Bluff,  in  its  general  outlines.  It  stands  within  a  short 
distance  of  the  east  bank  of  the  Chugwater,  and  gives  the  creek  its  present 
name.* 

Our  arrival  at  the  Fort  dated  the  26th  of  April.  The  boat  being  com- 
pleted, all  things,  save  the  spring  rise,  were  in  readiness  for  the  intended 
voyage. 

This  craft  was  put  together  in  regular  ship-shape,  and  finished  in  a 
workman-like  manner.  She  measured  fifty  feet  keel  by  thirteen  beam,  and, 
without  her  lading,  drew  but  an  inch  and  a  half  of  water.  Her  intended 
burthen  was  between  two  and  three  tons.  While  admiring  her  beauty 
and  symetry,  little  did  I  think  of  the  sufferings  in  store  for  me  with  her 
hardy  crew. 

Several  important  changes  had  taken  place  during  onr  absence.  The 
Fort  with  its  fixtures  now  claimed  different  owners,  and  was  occupied  by 
the  men  of  two  companies  besides  our  own.  This  swelled  the  present 
number  to  some  forty  or  fifty,  and  afforded  quite  a  lively  scene. 

Now  was  an  interval  of  leisure  to  all  hands,  and  the  time,  unemployed 
in  eating  and  sleeping,  was  passed  in  story-telling,  ball-playing,  foot-racing, 
target-shooting,  or  other  like  amusements. 

Several,  forming  themselves  into  a  club  for  forensic  debate,  secured  a 
prolific  source  of  entertainment,  for  the  time  being.  A  partner  in  one  of 
the  trading  firms,  whose  men  were  now  stationed  at  the  Fort,  made  him- 
self quite  conspicuous  as  a  participator  in  these  discussions. 

He  was  very  self-important  and  conceited,  and  not  a  little  ignorant 
withal,  and  with  regard  to  temperance,  being  uniformly  about  "  three 
sheets  in  the  wind,"  and  the  other  fluttering,  his  spoutings  were  an  ex- 
haustless  fund  of  laughter. 

At  his  request,  in  order  to  render  the  exercises  more  spirited,  the  merits 
of  the  arguments  presented  were  decided  upon  by  a  committee  of  three, 
and  the  speakers  decided  against,  sentenced  to  liquorize  the  club. 

The  treating,  however,  was  always  on  one  side ;  for,  as  the  whole  busi- 
ness was  an  affair  of  sport,  the  committee  of  arbitration  generally  had  this 
primary  object  in  view  while  pronouncing  their  decisions.  When  these 
were  averse  to  our  orator,  he  of  course  paid  the  forfeit  as  an  affair  of  debt ; 
and  when  favorable  to  him,  he  was  equally  prompt  in  proferring  a  common 
treat,  exultatory  upon  his  fancied  success. 

My  own  part  in  this  performance  was.  that  of  a  mere  looker-on,  but  it 
required  of  one  more  than  my  usual  self-mastery,  to  retain  his  gravitv  under 
the  potent  influences  of  so  ludicrous  an  exhibition. 

Other  matters  of  interest,  however,  occurred  at  this  time,  and,  as  .they 
tend  to  throw  some  light  upon  Indian  habits  and  customs,  perhaps  the 
reader  will  not  look  upon  it  as  altogether  out  of  place  for  me  to  notice 
f.hem. 

*  The  word  "  Chug  "  implies  chimney ;  of  the  derivation  of  the  term,  however,  I 
am  ignorant. 


SQUAW  FASHIONS.  135 

At  the  two  Forts  in  this  neighborhood  were  some  ten  or  twelve  squaws, 
married  to  the  traders  and  engages  of  the  different  fur  companies.  These 
ladies  were  in  the  habit  of  meeting,  occasionally,  for  gambling  purposes. 
In  this  they  acted  as  systematically  as  the  most  experienced  black  legs  of 
a  Mississippi  steamboat ;  if  they  failed  to  play  as  high,  it  was  only  for  the 
lack  of  means. 

Ball-playing  was  one  of  the  games  upon  which  heavy  bets  were  made. 
The  instrument  used  in  this  amusement  consisted  of  two  globular  forms, 
about  two  inches  each  in  diameter,  which  were  attached  by  a  short  string. 
The  play-ground  was  the  open  prairie  in  front  of  the  Fort,  and  embraced  an 
area  of  nearly  a  mile  in  extent. 

As  the  initiatory  step,  each  party,  composed  of  equal  numbers,  selected 
an  equal  amount  of  valuables,  consisting  of  beads,  scarlet,  vermilion,  rings, 
awls,  shells,  &c,  which  were  placed  in  two  piles  about  half  a  mile  apart, 
and  equi-distant  between  them  was  placed  the  ball.  Each  gamestress,  armed 
with  her  club,  then  repaired  to  the  spot,  and  the  opposing  parties  arrayed 
themselves,  the  one  facing  the  other  with  the  ball  between  them.  At  a  given 
signal  they  all  strike — the  one  party  striving  to  propel  it  towards  its  own 
valuables,  and  the  other  to  force  it  in  a  contrary  direction.  The  party  pro- 
pelling it  to  its  own  pile,  wins,  and  becomes  entitled  to  both. 

As  success  in  this  game  depends  more  upon  fleetness  of  foot  than  skill 
in  striking,  a  large  party  of  squaws,  thus  engaged,  opens  to  the  beholder  a 
rich  scene  of  amusement. 

Another  game  is  still  more  extensively  practised  among  them.  This  is 
somewhat  upon  the  principle  of  dice,  though  different  in  its  details. 

Six  plum-stones,  smoothly  polished,  and  marked  with  various  parallel, 
triangular,  and  transverse  lines,  are  thrown  loosely  into  a  small,  plate-like 
basket,  around  which  the  players  are  seated  with  their  stores  of  trin- 
kets. The  leader  then  receives  the  basket  in  one  hand,  and,  briskly  mov- 
ing it  to  change  the  position  of  the  dice,  suddenly  strikes  it  upon  the 
ground,  tossing  the  plum-stones  from  their  places  and  catching  them  in  their 
descent. 

The  amount  won  depends  upon  the  number  of  triangular  and  transverse 
lines  left  uppermost. 

The  loser,  having  paid  the  forfeit,  next  takes  the  basket  and  describes 
the  same  movements,  receives  her  winnings  in  like  manner,  and  returns  it  to 
her  opponent, — and  so  on  alternately. 

Much  cheating  and  trickery  are  practised  in  this  game. 

The  game  of  hand,  for  a  description  of  which  the  reader  is  referred  to  a 
previous  marginal  note,  is  also  a  favorite  play  with  squaws  as  well  as  men. 
Large  parties  of  both  sexes  not  unfrequently  engage  in  this  amusement, 
and  many  a  poor  Indian  loses  his  all  by  the  operation. 

Speaking  of  squaws  reminds  me  of  not  having  previously  described 
their  dress  and  appearance. 

The  dress  of  a  squaw  is  scarcely  less  simple  than  that  of  an  Indian. 
Two  pieces  of  skin,  sewed  together  in  a  bag-like  form,  (of  sufficient  size 
to  envelope  the  body  from  neck  to  knee,  leaving  an  aperture  for  the  formei 

12* 


136  INTERESTING  TO  ANTIQUARIANS. 

with  the  arms,)  constitute  her  gown,  which  is  completed  by  two  other 
pieces  of  skin  sewed  from  neck  to  waist  so  as  to  fall  loosely  upon  the  arms 
as  far  as  the  elbow ;  then,  with  leggins  of  thin  deer  or  antelope  skin, 
garnished  moccasins,  and  a  painted  robe,  you  have  before  you  the  full  rig 
of  a  mountain  squaw. 

Some  of  the  younger  ones,  however,  flaunt  dresses  quite  tastefully  orna- 
mented, with  full  capes  and  fringe- works,  garnished  with  beads  and  porcu- 
pine-quills, that  present  a  wild,  fantastic  appearance,  not  altogether  es- 
tranged to  beauty. 

A  squaw  prides  herself  much  upon  the  number  of  rings  in  her  ears  and 
upon  her  fingers,  as  well  as  the  taste  displayed  in  plaiting  her  hair  and 
beautifying  her  face. 

Women,  in  savage  alike  with  civilized  life,  are  vested  with  a  good  sup- 
ply of  pride  and  vanity  in  their  composition, — all,  fond  of  show  and  gaudy 
equipage.  But  the  mountain  squaw,  next  to  ornaments,  displays  the  most 
vanity  in  the  gay  caparison  of  her  riding  horse,  and  the  splendid  trappings 
of  his  saddle.  Both  of  them  are  fancifully  garnished  with  beads  and  paint, 
and  bestrung  with  various  trinkets,  that  impart  a  tinkling  sound,  as  they 
strike  each  other  at  every  movement,  and  fill  the  rider's  ears  with  that  wild 
and  simple  music  so  consonant  to  her  feelings  and  thoughts. 

Men  and  women  practise  the  same  mode  of  riding,  (astride,)  and  a 
squaw  is  as  much  at  home  on  horseback  as  the  most  experienced  cavalier. 

This  fashion  is  properly  considered  unbecoming  for  ladies  of  civilized 
countries ;  yet,  improper  as  it  may  seem,  it  is  quite  common  with  the  ladies 
of  New  Mexico. 

As  my  subsequent  travels  in  the  countries  bordering  upon  the  Rocky 
Mountains  preclude  the  opportunity  of  speaking  connectedly  of  the  Sioux 
nation,  I  cannot  forego  the  present  occasion  for  presenting  to  the  curious, 
some  few  items  relative  to  the  language  of  these  Indians,  that  tend  to  shed 
no  small  amount  of  light  upon  the  ancient  history  of  the  American  conti- 
nent. 

There  are  several  remarkable  peculiarities  in  the  Sioux  language,  that 
cannot  fail  to  prove  interesting  and  satisfactory,  so  far  as  they  go,  to  all 
lovers  of  antiquarian  research. 

The  first  of  these  consists  in  the  striking  similarity  observable  in  its 
general  structure  to  that  of  the  ancient  Romans,  when  the  two  are  care- 
fully compared  with  each  other. 

In  regard  to  the  arrangement  of  words  and  the  construction  of  sen- 
tences, they  are  both  governed  by  the  same  fixed  laws  of  euphony,  irre- 
spective of  the  relative  position  otherwise  maintained  by  the  different 
parts  of  speech.  It  will  be  observed  that  the  leading  purpose  of  the  speak- 
er of  either  language  is,  to  avoid  a  harsh  and  inharmonious  intermingling 
of  words,  such  as  would  grate  upon  the  ear  when  pronounced  in  an  ab- 
rupt connection ;  and,  by  so  doing,  to  give  a  smooth  and  musical  turn  to 
the  expression  of  his  ideas. 

The  few  brief  sentences,  hereto  subjoined  in  the  same  order  as  they  oc- 
cur in  the  original,  accompanied  by  the  translation  of  each  word  as  it  ap- 
pears, will  serve  to  illustrate  this  matter  more  fully : 


COMPARISON  OF  LANGUAGES. 


137 


LATIN. 

animi    robur 


SIOUX. 

Tepe  nea-tour    toocta  ? 

Lodge  your  own  where  is  it  ? 

Mea  warchee  muzarka  nea-tour. 

I         want         gun        your  own. 
Kokepa  warneche  wecharcha  ha. 

Afraid      nothing        the  man       is. 

Minewarka  appello  warktashne  ha 
Medicine-water    I  say       not  good        is. 

A  mere  glance  at  the  foregoing  will  at  once  show  the  constructional 
similarity  between  the  two ;  and,  to  illustrate  the  proposition  still  farther,  I 
here  subjoin  yet  other  proofs  of  a  more  important  relationship : 


Invictum   animi    robur      ostensit 
Invincible  of  mind  strength  he  displayed. 
Omnia  delicarum  instrumenta     e 

All    of  delicacies  the  intruments  from 
castris  ejecit. 

camp  he  cast. 
Non  amo  nimium  diligentes. 

Not  I  love  overmuch  the  careful. 


LATIN. 

Appello,  (pres.  ind.,  1st  per.  sing.;  inf. 
appellare,)  I  declare,  I  proclaim, 

Bestia,  a  wild  beast. 

Caeca,  uncertain,  ambiguous,  confu- 
sed, rash. 

Cogor,  one  who  collects,  brings  togeth- 
er, compels,  forces,  or  heaps  up. 

Mea,  (meus,  a,  urn,)  of  or  belonging 
tome. 

Mena,  a  narrow  sharp  fish. 

Ne,  (this  when  affixed  to  a  word  or  a 
sentence  gives  it  a  negative  signi- 
fication,) no,  not. 

Papae,  rare,  excellent,  wonderful. 

Pater,  father. 

Pes,  the  foot. 

Taurus,  a  bull. 

Tepor,  warmth. 

Tuor,  (tui,  tutus  sum,)  to  look,  to  see. 


SIOUX. 

Appello,  I  declare,  I  proclaim,  I  tell, 
I  make  known. 

Beta,  a  buffalo. 

Ceicha,  bad,  disorderly,  unsound. 

Cogor,  a  maker  of  anything,  a  manu- 
facturer, one  who  'produces  a  thing 
by  an  ingenious  arrangement  of 
materials. 

Mea,  I,  myself,  me. 

Mena,  a  knife. 

Ne,  (this  word  is  used  precisely  the 
same  as  in  Latin,  and  has  a  similar 
meaning,)  not. 

Papa,  meat,  flesh  used  for  food. 

Pater,  fire. 

Pea,  the  foot. 

Tau,  (or  tah,)  a  bull. 

Tepe,  a  lodge. 

Tula,  (astonishment,)  look!  see  there! 


I  might  pursue  this  comparison  to  a  yet  greater  extent,  were  my  know- 
ledge of  Sioux  sufficiently  full  and  critical  for  the  task,  (for  I  have  a  firm 
confidence  that  many  other  similarities  might  be  pointed  out,  quite  as  glar- 
ing in  their  character  as  any  of  the  above  ;)  but,  enough,  I  trust,  has  al- 
ready been  said  to  fortify  the  position  so  largely  warranted  by  the  pre- 
mises, to  wit :  that  in  former  ages  the  Romans  maintained  a  foothold  upon 
the  American  continent,  and  had  intercourse  with  this  nation,  either  by  arms 
or  by  commerce. 

The  argument  drawn  from  the  foregoing  is  still  further  strengthened, 
when  we  take  into  consideration  the  fact,  that  language  is  constantly  vary- 
ing in  its  form,  and  changing  the  meaning  and  pronunciation  of  its  words, 
as  time  progresses.  To  exemplify  this  more  clearly  and  forcibly,  let  the 
reader  compare  the  works  of  standard  English  authors  of  the  present  day 
with  those  of  the  like  not  more  than  five  hundred  years  since,  and  he  will 
readily  acknowledge  the  palpable  indications  of  progressive  change. 


138  THE  ROMANS  IN  AMERICA. 

If  so  short  an  interval  has  produced  a  transformation  so  bold  in  a  written 
language,  what  might  we  look  for  in  one  spoken  only  ? 

But,  an  interval  of  three  times  five  hundred  years  has  passed  since  the 
Romans  and  the  Sioux  held  intercourse  with  each  other,  and  we  yet  find 
the  general  structure  of  the  two  languages  strikingly  similar,  and  several 
of  their  words  identical  in  meaning  and  pronunciation !  And,  though  the 
latter  observation  fails  in  some  cases,  even  this,  so  far  from  proving  any- 
thing averse  to  the  position  before  assumed,  serves  to  strengthen  it. 

The  word  paler,  for  instance,  pronounced  alike  in  both  languages,  dif- 
fers in  signification  ;  being  used  in  the  one  to  imply  father,  in  the  other 
fire.  This  apparent  discrepancy  of  meaning  may  be  explained  in  a  few 
words.  The  Sioux  are  accustomed  to  venerate  the  sun  as  one  of  the  more 
especial  manifestations  of  the  Divine  Essence,  who  is  regarded  as  the 
father  or  creator  of  all  things ;  and  it,  being  the  great  source  of  light 
and  heat,  is  naturally  looked  upon  as  an  immense  body  of  fire.  Thus,  in 
the  course  of  ages,  the  term  became  perverted  in  its  meaning  and  applica- 
tion, and,  instead  of  being  used  to  express  the  sun,  or  Great  Spirit,  the 
father  of  all,  it  now  only  implies  the  simple  element  of  fire,  an  emanation 
from  the  sun. 

So  in  relation  to  the  Latin  word  tepor,  warmth,  and  the  Sioux  word  tepe, 
a  lodge.  The  lod^e  is  employed  in  winter  to  retain  the  heat  within  itself, 
and  exclude  the  cold  air;  nor  is  it  wonderful  that,  in  the  progress  of  years, 
the  term  tepor,  or  tepe,  should  become  the  only  one  by  which  a  lodge  is 
known. 

The  word  mena,  is  also  pronounced  the  same  in  both,  though  different  in 
its  signification  ;  meaning,  in  Latin,  a  narrow  sharp  fish,  and,  in  Sioux,  a 
knife.  In  explanation  of  this,  I  would  barely  refer  to  the  similarity  of 
shape  between  a  knife  and  a  narrow  sharp  fish. 

The  relationship  disclosed  between  these  two  languages  is  seemingly 
too  close  and  significant  to  be  attributed  to  mere  chance  or  accident,  and 
can  be  in  no  other  way  satisfactorily  accounted  for,  than  by  admitting  the 
correctness  of  the  premises  before  quoted. 

But  this  position,  curious  as  it  may  seem  to  some  readers,  and  impreg- 
nable as  it  must  doubtless  prove,  has  other  weapons  to  protect  it  at  com- 
mand ;  and,  ere  dismissing  the  subject,  I  will  briefly  notice  some  of  them. 

It  is  by  no  means  a  conjecture  of  recent  origin,  that  the  aneient  Romans 
did  actually  colonize  portions  of  the  American  continent.  The  industri- 
ous researches  of  antiquarians  have  long  since  brought  to  light  many  items 
which  prove  and  strengthen  it,  though  none  of  them  so  tangible  and  obvi- 
ous as  those  previously  noticed. 

Several  obscure  hints  of  the  existence  of  extensive  Roman  colonies 
planted  westward  of  the  Pillars  of  Hercules,  (doubtless  alluding  to  the 
American  continent,)  have  been  detected  in  the  writings  of  ancient  authors 
yet  3xtant ;  but  still  further  proof  is  afforded  in  the  relics  of  temples,  cities, 
roa  *s,  and  fortified  camps,  long  since  discovered  in  Peru,  Mexico,  and  the 
United  States,  which  strongly  savor  of  Roman  origin. 

The  ancient  works  at  Marietta,  Ohio,  have  been  regarded,  by  not  a  few, 
as  the  offspring  of  Roman  industry  and  military  science, — and  various  other 
remains,  that  signalize  the  Mississippi  valley,  point  quite  plainly  to  this 
nation  for  a  parentage.     But  a  proof,  still  more  conclusive  than  any  yet  ad- 


WE  EMBARK.  139 

duced,  is  afforded  by  the  discovery  of  a  genuine  Roman  coin,  in  the  State 
of  Missouri,  several  years  since. 

Taking  all  these  corroborative  circumstances  in  connection,  the  fact  that 
Roman  colonies  did  exist,  to  some  extent,  upon  this  continent  in  past  ages, 
must  be  regarded  as  placed  beyond  successful  controversy. 


CHAPTEE  XVII. 


Singular  exhibition  of  natural  affection. — Embark  for  the  States. — Scarcity  of  pro- 
visions and  consequent  hardship  and  suffering.— Extraordinary  daring  of  wolves. — 
Difficulties  of  navigation. — Novel  diet. — Fishing. — A  fish  story,  and  another  to 
match  it. — A  bull  story. — Hard  aground  and  dismal  situation. — Extreme  exposure. — 
Cold,  hungry,  and  wet. — Again  afloat. — Re-supply  of  provisions. — Camp  on  fire. — 
A  picture  of  Platte  navigation. — Country  north  of  river. — Adventure  with  a  bull.— 
Indian  benevolence. — Summary  of  hardships  and  deprivations. — Abandon  voyage. 

Soon  after  our  return,  one  of  the  hunters  came  in  from  a  short  excursion 
followed  by  a  buffalo  calf,  which  appeared  as  tame  and  docile  as  if  always 
accustomed  to  the  presence  of  man. 

This  incident  first  brought  to  my  knowledge  a  remarkable  peculiarity  in 
the  nature  of  these  animals, — viz:  the  strength  of  affection  existing  between 
the  mother  and  her  offspring. 

The  buffalo  will  never  desert  her  calf,  except  in  cases  of  imminent 
danger,  and  then,  never  for  a  long  time ; — she  is  certain  to  return  promptly 
in  search  of  it,  even  at  the  hazard  of  her  own  life.  The  calf,  on  the  other 
hand,  exhibits  an  equal,  or  rather  superior,  love  for  its  mother. 

If  she,  to  whom  he  owes  his  birth,  falls  a  prey  to  the  relentless  hunter,  he 
deserts  her  not,  but  lingers  near  her  lifeless  carcase,  till  the  butcher-knife 
performs  its  office,  and  the  reeking  flesh  belades  the  pack-horse ; — nor  then, 
even,  does  he  leave  her. 

As  the  honored  relics  are  borne  away,  he  not  unfrequently  follows  on, 
mournfully,  regardless  of  aught  else,  as  if  saying,  "  Where  thou  goest  let 
me  go,  and  now  thou  art  dead,  I  would  live  no  longer."  There  is  some- 
thing touchingly  beautiful  in  such  exhibitions  of  natural  affection  on  the 
part  of  dumb  brutes. 

May  1th.  Availing  ourselves  of  a  slight  rise  of  water,  we  embarked  on 
our  meditated  voyage  to  the  States. 

The  boat  was  freighted  with  some  sixty  packs*  of  robes,  and  provisions 
for  four  weeks.  A  barge  belonging  to  another  company,  also  in  readiness, 
started  with  us,  and  we  all  flattered  ourselves  with  the  hope  of  a  speedy 
and  pleasant  trip. 

The  two  boats  numbered  a  united  crew  of  eleven  men, — mine  consist- 
ing of  five,  and  that  of  our  consort  counted  six. 

*  A  pack  of  robes  generallv  embraces  teu  skins,  and  weighs  about  eighty  pounds. 


140  NOT  TO  BE  ENVIED. 

Slipping  cable,  we  glided  midway  of  the  stream,  and  gave  a  parting 
salute  to  the  friends  who  lined  the  shore,  accompanied  by  a  loud  hurra 
and  waving  of  hats,  deeply  responded  to  by  them, — and  even  tears  coursed 
their  way  a  down  the  dusky  visages  of  our  voyageurs,  when  mindful  of 
the  fate  separating  them — perhaps  forever  ! 

The  crews  now  struck  up  a  merry  song,  while  the  dripping  oars,  as  they 
spurned  the  crystal  waters,  responded  their  time  in  measured  strokes. 

As  we  passed  swiftly  along  and  were  fast  receding  from  within  hailing 
distance  of  the  Fort,  an  old  mountaineer,  who  stood  gazing  upon  us,  ex- 
claimed, "  Ah,  boys ;  you  can  sing  now,  but  your  tune  will  be  altered  ere- 
long !" 

This  strange  announcement,  though  a  riddle  at  the  time  of  its  utterance, 
soon  began  to  more  than  verify  itself,  and  often  did  we  repeat  the  remark, 
"  Well,  sure  enough,  our  tune  has  changed." 

Moving  along  prettily  during  the  day — sometimes  floating  with  the  cur- 
rent then  again  plying  oars, — we  reached  the  mouth  of  Horse  creek ;  and, 
passing  on  a  short  distance,  lay  to  for  the  night. 

The  day  following  we  again  pushed  off;  but,  after  proceeding  ten  or 
twelve  miles,  the  water  became  so  shallow,  we  were  compelled  to  lay  by  to 
await  a  further  rise,  and  struck  camp  in  a  small  grove  of  cottonwood  upon 
the  right  bank  of  the  Platte,  a  short  distance  above  Scott's  Bluff.  Here  we 
remained  for  some  two  weeks. 

The  crew  of  our  consort  being  poorly  supplied  with  provisions,  we 
divided  our  own  with  them,  and,  at  the  expiration  of  a  few  days,  were  left 
entirely  destitute. 

From  this  on,  we  were  dependent  solely  upon  such  game  as  chance 
threw  in  our  way, — sometimes  starving  for  two  or  three  days,  and  then 
feasting  for  a  like  interval,  upon  the  products  of  successful  hunting. 

To  us  was  a  tedious  lot, — there  being  no  game  in  the  country,  save  per- 
chance a  few  straggling  bulls,  and  they  rarely  within  less  distance  than  ten 
or  twelve  miles.  Our  hunting  excursions  often  led  further  than  that,  and 
when  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  kill,  the  proceeds  were  borne  upon  our 
Dacks  to  camp.  We  became  so  accustomed  to  packing  in  this  manner,  it 
was  thought  no  extra  burthen  for  an  individual  to  carry  upwards  of  a  hundred 
pounds  of  fresh  meat  at  a  single  load,  some  ten  or  twelve  successive  miles, 
over  an  open,  sandy  prairie,  and  beneath  the  scorching  rays  of  an  almost 
vertical  sun. 

So  far  from  regarding  it  a  task,  we  esteemed  it  a  pleasure,  and  were 
glad  to  appease  the  cravings  of  appetite  even  at  so  small  a  sacrifice  of 
comfort  and  convenience. 

The  reason  for  the  scarcity  of  all  kinds  of  game  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
river  at  this  time,  was  the  recent  burning  of  the  prairie  upon  both  sides, 
for  many  miles  back,  leaving  not  even  the  vestige  of  vegetation  for  the 
subsistence  of  any  graminivorous  animals. 

This  we  found  to  be  the  case  nearly  the  entire  distance  to  the  forks. 

During  the  latter  part  of  our  stay  at  this  camp,  it  rained  almost  inces- 
santly ;  we  also  encountered  a  severe  snow  storm. 

The  winds  were  usually  high,  and  frequently  blew  with  hurricane-vio- 
lence. 


FISH  STORIES.  141 

A  pack  of  hungry  wolves,  attracted  by  the  scent  of  camp,  were  our 
regular  nocturnal  visitors,  and  proved  a  constant  source  of  annoyance.  On 
one  occasion  they  carried  off  a  bake-kettle  to  a  distance  of  several  hundred 
yards  ; — at  another  time,  they  took  away  a  tin-pan,  which  we  never  after- 
wards recovered ; — and,  stranger  yet,  one  night  these  piratical  pests  stole  a 
fur  cap  from  off  my  head  while  I  was  sleeping,  and  in  the  morning,  after  a 
diligent  search,  no  trace  of  it  could  be  found. 

The  river  having  slightly  risen,  we  again  loosed  cable,  and,  after  toiling 
all  day,  and  tugging  with  might  and  main,  by  hand-spikes  and  levers, — 
twisting,  screwing,  and  lifting,  now  in  water  up  to  our  necks,  and  now  on 
dry  sand-bars,  we  succeeded  in  dragging,  or  rather  carrying,  our  craft  for  a 
distance  of  about  five  miles,  and  again  lay  oy  for  four  succeeding  days  to 
await  a  still  further  rise. 

Upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  was  a  bald-eagle's  nest,  with  two  half- 
grown  fledgelings.  One  of  our  party,  ascending  the  tree,  captured  the 
young  ones,  and  we  had  a  fine  meal  from  their  carcases.  A  wood-duck's 
nest,  containing  some  twelve  eggs,  near  by,  afforded  a  seasonable  repast, — 
and,  in  hunting  for  game,  we  came  upon  the  nest  of  a  wild  goose,  as  well 
as  those  of  numerous  ravens  among  the  neighboring  cottonwoods  and  wil- 
lows, which  we  subjected  to  such  forced  contributions  as  appetite  demanded. 

A  portion  of  the  interval  was  employed  in  fishing,  but  with  poor  success, 
the  fish  of  the  Platte  being  nearly  all  of  them  small,  and  not  very  plentiful 
even,  at  that 

An  old  Franco-Canadian,  of  our  crew,  here  favored  us  with,  perhaps,  a 
little  the  biggest  fish  story  of  any  told  at  the  present  day. 

He  had  been  down  the  Missouri  on  several  occasions  in  boats  connected 
with  the  fur  trade.  On  one  of  these  voyages,  while  in  the  act  of  reaching 
over  the  boat-side  for  a  drink  of  water,  he  dropped  his  cup,  which  imme- 
diately sank  to  the  bottom  of  the  river  and  was  lost. 

Three  years  afterwards  he  again  passed  the  same  place,  with  hooks  and 
lines  attached  to  the  boat-stern  for  the  purpose  of  catching  fish  as  he  glided 
along. 

A  large  cat-fish,  attracted  by  the  tempting  bait  borne  upon  the  hook, 
greedily  swallowed  it,  and,  in  a  trice,  found  himself  translated  to  a  new 
and  strange  element. 

The  creature  was  so  heavy,  it  took  two  men  to  pull  him  into  the  boat,  while 
his  gigantic  proportions  astonished  all  beholders. 

But  the  most  surprising  thing  was  revealed  on  opening  him ; — there, 
snugly  stowed  away  in  one  corner  of  the  monster's  capacious  maw,  repo- 
sed the  identical  cup  our  voyageur  had  lost,  three  years  before,  with  his 
name  and  the  date  marked  upon  it ! 

"  Pooh  !  Gumbo,"  said  an  old  sailor,  "  I  can  beat  such  stories  as  that,  all 
day. 

"  Why,  fellow,  on  my  last  trip  from  Liverpool  to  New  York,  a  shark 
followed  the  ship  for  a  long  time,  picking  up  such  bits  of  bread  and  meat 
as  were  thrown  into  the  sea. 

"  Our  steward  was  a  very  careless  fellow,  and,  in  shaking  the  table- 
cloth, he  would  frequently  drop  overboard  the  knives  and  forks  and  spoons, 
and  received  from  the  captain  several  floggings  on  that  account.     He  was 


142  BULLETS  IN  A  BULL. 

nven  accused  of  stealing  them,  but  strongly  protested  his  innocence  of  the 
latter  charge. 

"Among  our  passengers  was  an  old  whaleman,  who,  being  very  expert 
in  the  use  of  the  harpoon,  took  it  into  his  head  one  day  to  victimize  the 
shark.  After  several  ineffectual  attempts,  he  finally  succeeded  in  forcing 
nis  instrument  through  the  monster's  vitals,  and  drew  the  lifeless  carcase 
alongside. 

"  The  piratical  cruiser  was  so  thundering  big,  it  took  eight  men  with 
tackles  to  raise  it  on  board  ; — it  must  have  weighed  at  least  sixteen  hun- 
dred pounds  !  The  body  of  the  greedy  creature  was  then  laid  upon  deck, 
and  on  opening  it  all  were  astonished !  What  do  you  think  was  found, 
Gumbo  ?" 

"  Sacre  sharp  !  Certes  me  tink  dey  fine  de  spoon,  de  fork  an  de  knife  > 
Him  shark  no  follow  de  ship  for  nottin." 

"  Well,  boys,  what  do  you  all  suppose  was  found  ?" 

"  Indeed,  we  could'nt  say." 

"  Guess," 

"  The  knives  and  spoons,  of  course.' 

"  You  are  wrong,  to  a  man." 

"  What,  in  the  name  of  reason,  could  it  have  been  ?  Do  tell — we  give 
it  up." 

"  Hang  me,  if  you  aint  a  bright  set  of  fellows ! — Can't  guess  a  thing 
so  easy  ?  Why,  if  I  must  tell  you — 'twas  guts, — only  guts — nothing  in 
the  world  but  guts  /"  ' 

*'  Look  here,  Jack,"  said  one  of  the  listeners,  advancing  towards  him  hat 
in  hand,  "  you  can  take  this.  We'll  be  quite  likely  to  remember  hereafter 
that  fish  generally  carry  their  guts  inside !" 

The  old  Frenchman  looked  rather  crest-fallen  at  the  curious  manner  in 
which  his  extraordinary  fish  story  had  been  matched, — but  felt  little  dis- 
posed to  yield  his  laurels  without  an  effort  to  retrieve  them, — so,  calling  to 
aid  his  recollections  of  the  marvellous,  he  again  commenced. 

Several  years  ago,  while  in  the  employ  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
our  hero  and  another  man  were  sent  expresses  to  a  distant  post.  It  was 
winter;  and  they  travelled  on  foot,  depending  for  daily  subsistence  upon 
such  game  as  chance  brought  in  their  way.  Their  course  lay  through  an 
open  and  cheerless  prairie,  covered  with  snow,  and  the  journey  occupied 
nearly  a  month. 

Having  been  en  route  some  five  or  six  days,  their  ammunition  began  to 
fail  in  the  item  of  lead, — and  only  two  bullets  were  left.  Their  condition 
now  became  extremely  desperate,  as  there  was  no  way  of  procuring  a 
re-supply, — and  anticipated  starvation  stared  them  in  the  face. 

Determined  to  eat  as  long  as  the  means  of  subsistence  remained,  their 
last  balls  were  shot  away  in  killing  a  buffalo  bull.  After  furnishing  them- 
selves from  his  carcase  with  a  large  supply  of  meat  for  present  and  future 
use,  our  hero  proceeded  to  cut  a  few  locks  of  hair  from  off  the  creature's 
head,  for  the  purpose  of  stuffing  his  moccasins. 

"  Bor  Dieu !  Vat  you  tink  me  fine  ?  You  no  can  tell  all  day  !  Me 
no  ask  you  guess.     Bon  Dieu  !  c'etre  admirable.     Me  fine  forty  ballas,  in 


HOW  WE  SUFFERED.  143 

he  head.     Me  get  'em  out.     Sacre  tonnerre  !  den  me  had  him  sufficient  la 
poudre  and  la  ballas  for  de  route  !     No  go  hungry  une  leetil  bit !" 

On  the  fifth  day  subsequent,  we  again  launched  forth  into  the  stream, 
and  after  a  series  of  most  extraordinary  exertions,  (being  obliged  to  lighten 
our  boat  several  times,  by  carrying  its  loading  on  shore,  and  reloading  as 
often,  thus  to  enable  us  to  lift  it  over  sand-bars,)  we  succeeded  in  getting  it 
some  three  miles,  and  finally  became  safely  moored  in  the  middle  of  the 
river,  from  which  it  was  impossible  to  extricate  ourselves  either  by  going 
backwards,  forwards,  or  side  wise — with  or  without  a  cargo. 

Here  we  remained  for  three  days,  and  experienced,  during  the  interval, 
a  continuous  fall  of  rain  and  sleet,  which  rendered  the  weather  dismal  and 
our  own  situation  disagreeable  in  the  extreme. 

A  cache  of  liquor  having  been  made,  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  distant,  by  a 
trader  connected  with  our  consort,  a  month  or  two  previous,  unforbid- 
ding  as  was  the  weather,  the  crew  could  not  rest  content  until  the  hidden 
'treasure  was  among  them. 

Improving  the  opportunity  presented  by  a  slight  suspension  of  the  storm, 
one  morning  two  of  them  started  to  procure  it.  Soon  after  it  commenced 
snowing  and  raining,  accompanied  by  a  fierce,  cutting  wind  and  all  the 
withering  bleakness  of  a  winter's  blast. 

Still  keeping  on,  however,  they  obtained  the  cache,  and  returned  with  it 
towards  the  boat. 

But  night  shut  in  upon  them  by  the  way,  and  a  thrice  dreary  night  it 
was.  Being  too  drunk  to  navigate,  they  lost  their  course  and  were  forced 
to  camp  in  the  open  prairie,  without  wood  or  aught  else  of  which  to  build  a 
fire,  or  even  a  robe  to  cover  or  a  rock  to  shelter  them  from  the  chill  wind 
and  peltings  of  the  pitiless  storm. 

Half-frozen  with  cold  and  wet  to  the  skin,  they  lay  upon  the  muddy 
ground  and  passed  the  interval,  not  in  sleep,  but  in  a  state  of  drunken 
stupor,  produced  by  inordinate  draughts  upon  the  contents  of  their  keg. 

On  the  next  morning  they  reached  the  boat, — a  beautiful  looking  couple, 
as  might  well  be  supposed  !  Covered  with  mud  from  head  to  foot,  their 
clothes  were  wringing  wet,  and  their  faces  bloated  and  swollen  almost  to 
twice  their  natural  size.  So  complete  was  the  transformation,  they  were 
scarcely  recognizable  as  the  same  persons. 

But,  regardless  of  hardship  and  suffering,  they  stuck  to  the  liquor-keg 
and  brought  it  with  them  as  proof  of  their  triumph. 

And  now  commenced  a  scene  of  drunken  revelry,  which,  despite  my 
efforts  to  prevent  it,  soon  communicated  itself  to  both  crews,  and  continued 
without  intermission  till  the  stock  on  hand  was  exhausted. 

The  lack  of  a  fire  by  which  to  warm  ourselves,  contributed  materially 
to  the  misery  of  our  present  condition ;  there  being  no  wood  procurable 
for  that  purpose  within  five  or  six  miles  of  either  shore,  and  having  none 
on  board,  we  were  compelled  to  endure  the  dreary  interval  as  best  we 
could. 

But  another  evil  came  pressing  upon  our  already  heavy  load  through 
the  entire  exhaustion  of  provisions,  and  the  last  of  our  stay  was  made 
twice  forlorn  by  cold  and  fasting. 

13 


U4  PICTURE  OF  THE  PLATTE. 


The  gloomy  reality  of  this  situation  may  be  thus  briefly  summed  up  ; — 
we  were  fast  aground  in  the  middle  of  a  river,  three-fourths  of  a  mile 
from  either  shore,  confined  to  the  narrow  limits  of  a  few  feet,  exposed  to 
the  merciless  peltings  of  a  chill  storm  of  rain  and  sleet,  with  only  a  thin 
lodge  skin  to  shelter  us,  without  fire  to  warm  or  dry  ourselves  by,  and, 
worse  than  all,  destitute  of  the  means  of  appeasing  the  gnawings  of  hun- 
ger. 

But,  forbidding  as  the  picture  may  seem,  it  proved  only  the  commence- 
ment of  a  long  series  of  suffering  and  deprivation,  more  intensely  dread- 
ful in  its  nature,  that  was  yet  held  in  reserve  for  us. 

On  the  forenoon  of  the  fourth  day  the  storm  abated,  and,  favored  with  a 
slight  rise  of  water,  by  dint  of  extraordinary  effort  we  finally  succeeded  in 
getting  afloat,  and  gained  the  right  shore  after  pulling  our  craft  over  sand- 
bars for  a  distance  of  two  miles. 

All  hands  now  turned  out  in  search  of  game,  one  of  whom  returned, 
towards  night  with  an  antelope,  providing  us  with  a  needful  supply  of  food 
for  the  time  being. 

The  next  day,  forcing  our  craft  onward  for  six  or  eight  miles,  we 
brought  to  upon  the  left  shore,  where,  after  a  short  excursion  among  the 
hills,  two  other  antelope  were  brought  in,  which  furnished  us  with  a  fur- 
ther supply  of  provisions. 

The  day  following  we  continued  our  voyage  till  towards  noon,  when  a 
high  wind  compelled  us  again  to  lay  by  under  the  lee  of  a  small  island. 

Here,  towards  night,  having  spread  our  robes  near  the  camp  fire,  while 
all  hands  were  busy  at  the  boat,  a  sudden  gust  of  wind  bore  the  sparks 
among  the  dry  grass,  and  in  an  instant  the  whole  island  was  one  sheet  of 
flame !  robes,  blankets,  and  all,  were  almost  entirely  destroyed,  notwith- 
standing our  prompt  efforts  to  save  them. 

Continuing  on,  the  next  morning  we  forced  our  boat,  or  rather  carried  it, 
down  stream  for  about  fifteen  miles, — wading  the  river  for  nearly  the  whole 
distance. 

Our  mode  of  voyaging  was  pretty  much  the  same,  each  day  of  its  con 
tinuance.     Sailing  was  out  of  the  question. 

Not  unfrequently  we  were  obliged  to  unload  five  or  six  times  in  the 

course  of  a  few  hours,  in  order  to  lift  the  boat  over  high  sand-bars, 

carrying  its  cargo  upon  our  backs  through  the  water  a  half-mile  or  more,  to 
some  dry  place  of  deposit  for  the  mean  time  ;  then  returning  it  in  the  like 
tiresome  manner, — now  in  water  up  to  our  arm-pits, — then  scarcely  enough 
to  cover  the  sand  of  the  river  bed. 

As  for  a  channel  there  was  none,  or  rather,  there  were  so  many  we  were 
at  a  continual  loss  which  to  choose. 

Now,  gliding  along  merrily  for  a  mile  or  two,  we  are  brought  to  a  halt 
by  the  water  scattering  over  a  broad  bed,  and  find  ourselves  snugly 
" pocketed"  with  no  other  means  of  extrication  than  by  backing  out ;  then, 
wading  against  a  swift  current,  we  retrace  our  steps  for  a  like  distance, 
and  try  another  chute,  perhaps  with  no  better  success ; — then,  again,  con- 
veying our  landing  to  the  nearest  point  of  land,  by  means  of  hand-spikes 
and  levers,  (requiring  an  exercise  of  the  utmost  strength,)  we  force  our 


HARD  FATE.  145 


empty  craft  over  the  shoals,  and  again  load  it,  perhaps,  to  re-act  the  same 
scene  in  a  brief  interval. 

Sometimes  we  were  obliged  to  travel  (for  such  navigation  as  this  was 
tenfold  worse  than  travelling)  four  of  five  miles  to  make  one  mile  headway. 
By  crossing  and  re-crossing  a  river  varying  in  width  from  one  to  two  miles — 
first  advancing,  then  retreating  ;  now  taking  to  the  right,  then  to  the  left ; 
now  transverse,  and  then  oblique,  we  wasted  our  time,  strength,  and  pa- 
tience, in  labor  to  little  or  no  purpuse.  No  one,  unless  practically  experi- 
enced, can  have  a  correct  idea  of  the  beauties  of  such  a  voyage. 

Towards  night,  attracted  by  the  appearance  of  a  couple  of  bulls  among 
the  sand-hills,  we  brought  to  upon  the  left  shore,  and  succeeded  in  killing 
one  of  them. 

A  high  wind  the  day  following  kept  us  encamped  and  aflbrded  another 
opportunity  for  hunting. 

Improving  the  occasion  to  explore  the  country  northward,  and  obtain,  if 
possible,  some  correct  conception  of  its  general  character,  a  jaunt  of  four 
or  five  miles,  over  the  bottom  of  rich  alluvial  soil  skirting  the  river,  ushered 
me  into  a  high  rolling  prairie,  partaking  of  the  mixed  nature  of  the  garden 
and  desert. 

The  hills,  in  many  places,  were  piles  of  sand  or  sun-baked  clay,  with 
scarcely  a  shrub  or  spire  of  grass  to  hide  their  nude  deformity,  while  the 
space  between  them  sported  a  rich  soil  and  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  was 
clothed  in  the  verdure  and  loveliness  of  spring,  and  adorned  with  blushing 
wild-flowers  in  full  bloom. 

Further  on  were  yet  higher  summits,  surmounted  by  pines  and  cedars, 
raising  their  heads  in  stately  grandeur  far  above  the  sweet  valleys  at  their 
feet. 

Taken  together,  the  scenery  was  not  only  romantic  and  picturesque,  but 
bewitching  in  its  beauty  and  repulsive  in  its  deformity. 

The  prevailing  rock  was  a  dark,  ferruginous  sandstone,  and  argillaceous 
limestone,  interspersed  with  conglomerates  of  various  kinds. 

Proceeding  to  a  distance  of  about  fifteen  miles  from  the  river,  in  hopes 
of  finding  game,  I  encountered  nothing  save  a  solitary  band  of  wild  horses, 
that  fled  across  the  sand-hills  with  the  fleetness  of  the  wind  on  my  appear- 
ance, after  which  I  returned  to  the  boat  much  fatigued  from  the  excursion. 

Our  other  hunters  had  also  returned ;  but  neither  of  them  with  better 
success  than  myself. 

The  subsequent  morning  we  again  renewed  our  voyage.  Soon  after,  an 
old  bull  presenting  himself  upon  the  river  bank,  we  landed,  and  one  of  the 
crew  approached  him  from  the  water-edge. 

The  old  fellow,  unconscious  of  the  danger  which  threatened,  permitted 
the  hunter  to  advance  till  within  three  or  four  yards  of  him.  The  sharp  crack 
of  a  rifle-shot  first  awoke  him  to  a  sense  of  his  situation,  when,  reeling,  he 
plunged  headlong  from  the  steep  bank  into  the  river.  Our  marksman,  in 
an  effort  to  dodge  the  falling  beast,  tumbled  backwards  into  swimming  wa- 
ter— lost  his  gun,  and  came  very  near  being  drowned. 

The  bull  made  halt  at  a  sand-bar,  near  by,  and  received  nineteen  shots  in 
his  carcase  before  he  could  be  dispatched. 


146  IMPOSSIBLE  TO  PROCEED. 

When  killed,  his  hams  were  found  half  eaten  by  wolves,  and  his  whole 
body  otherwise  so  badly  mangled  we  left  it  unbutchered. 

In  the  afternoon,  having  pursued  our  way  eight  or  ten  miles,  we  lay  by 
for  the  night. 

A  high  wind  and  rain  during  the  three  succeeding  days  prevented  further 
progress,  and  in  the  interval  our  provisions  became  again  exhausted. 

While  here,  observing  two  Indians  in  the  distance,  running  buffalo,  1 
took  three  men  and  started  to  meet  them.  On  coming  up,  we  found  an  old 
Indian  with  his  son  engaged  in  butchering.  Announcing  the  object  of  my 
visit  to  be  the  procurement  of  meat,  they  listened  without  a  reply,  but  con- 
tinued their  operations, — laying  the  selections  in  two  separate  heaps. 

When  finished,  the  old  man  led  up  his  horse,  and,  pointing  to  an  assorted 
pile,  told  me  it  was  mine,  and  the  animal  also  should  be  at  my  service  to 
convey  it  to  camp. 

His  village,  he  remarked,  was  a  long  distance  over  the  hills,  on  the 
watch  for  Pawnees,  and  though  in  a  directly  opposite  course  from  us,  he 
loved  the  white  man  and  would  give  him  meat  and  a  horse  to  carry  it. 

Accepting  the  offer  of  the  generous-hearted  savage,  I  took  the  heavy- 
laden  horse  and  returned  to  the  boat, — the  owner  following  to  regain  his 
beast.  When  arrived,  he  hinted  at  no  remumeration  for  his  kindness, 
and  mounting  his  horse,  would  have  left  for  his  village. 

Where  will  you  find  among  civilized  people  men  thus  generous  and 
obliging  ?  Such  cases  are  indeed  rare.  The  savage  here  proved  himself 
of  more  noble  principles  than  nineteen-twentieths  of  his  enlightened  and 
christianized  brethren,  whose  religion  teaches  them  to  love  their  neighbor 
as  themselves,  and  do  to  others  as  they  would  like  to  be  done  unto ! 

Unwilling  that  such  disinterested  kindness  should  go  unrewarded,  I  made 
the  old  man  some  trifling  presents,  which  he  accepted  with  great  pleasure, 
and,  pressing  his  hand  to  his  breast,  exclaimed :  "  Chanta-ma  warstaello  !" 
(my  heart  is  good  !)  and,  shaking  hands  with  the  company,  put  whip  to  his 
horse  and  was  soon  out  of  sight. 

It  is  useless  to  notice  the  particular  progress  of  each  day,  or  to  state  how 
many  times  we  unloaded  in  the  interim — how  often  we  crossed  the  river,  01 
how  far  we  carried  our  boat  by  main  strength ;  these  things  have  been 
already  laid  before  the  reader  sufficiently  to  give  him  some  faint  idea  of  the 
intolerable  hardships  and  sufferings  we  were  compelled  to  undergo.  Each 
day  was  but  a  repetition  of  the  toils  and  struggles  of  the  preceding  one. 

Neither  would  it  be  interesting  to  state  the  especial  half-day,  day,  or  suc- 
cessive days  we  went  without  eating,  meanwhile ;  suffice  it  to  say,  the 
morning  of  the  10th  of  June  found  us  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek  upon 
the  right  shore,  about  two  hundred  miles  below  the  Fort, — having  been 
thirty-five  days  en  barquette,  and  without  eating  for  full  one  third  of  that 
time !  The  expected  spring  rise  had  failed,  and  the  river  was  very  low  and 
still  falling,  so  that  there  was  no  possible  chance  of  conveying  our  cargo  to 
the  States,  as  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  voyage  lay  yet  before  us.  I  ac- 
cordingly abandoned  all  thoughts  of  the  latter,  and  adopted  such  other  ar- 
rangements as  my  judgment  suggested  upon  the  premises. 


147 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Hunting  excursion. — Thirst  more  painful  than  hunger. — Geological  observations 

Mournful  casualty. — Sad  scene  of  sepulture. — Melancholy  night. — Voyage  in  an 
empty  boat. — Ruins  of  a  Pawnee  village  at  Cedar  Bluff. — Plover  creek.  Cacne 
Grove. — Thousand  Islands. — Abandon  boat. — Exploring  company. — A  horrible  situ- 
ation.— Agony  to  torment. — Pawnee  village. — Exemplary  benevolence  of  an  Indian 
chief. — Miserable  fourth  of  July. — Four  days  starvation. — Arrival  at  Council 
Bluff. — Proceed  to  Independence. 

For  two  days  preceding  we  had  been  without  eating-,  and  our  first  effort 
was  to  procure  a  re-supply  of  provisions.  Both  crews  started  out  with 
their  rifles  in  pursuit  of  game,  though  not  the  foot-print  of  any  living  crea- 
ture appeared  to  excite  even  the  faintest  hope  of  success. 

Still,  however,  we  kept  on,  determined  not  to  despair  so  long  as  the  use 
of  legs  remained  to  us. 

Having  travelled  some  fifteen  miles,  chance  threw  in  our  way  a  doe-elk 
with  her  fawn,  which  the  unerring  aim  of  a  rifle  speedily  laid  dead  before 
us.  Soon  as  opened,  the  liver  disappeared  at  the  demands  of  voracious  ap- 
petites, and  next  to  it  the  marrow  bones  and  kidneys. 

The  process  of  cooking  was  then  commenced  over  a  fire  of  bois  de  xache, 
which  was  continued  till  each  stomach  was  abundantly  satisfied.  But, 
here  another  enemy  assumed  the  place  of  hunger,  and  one  far  more  painful 
in  its  nature.  There  was  not  a  drop  of  water  to  allay  our  thirst  short  of 
the  river,  fifteen  miles  distant, — over  an  open  sand-prairie  and  beneath  the 
scorching  rays  of  a  vertical  sun. 

I  can  endure  hunger  for  many  days  in  succession  without  experiencing 
any  very  painful  sensations, — I  can  lie  down  and  forget  it  in  the  sweet  un- 
consciousness of  sleep,  or  feast  my  imagination  upon  the  rich-spread  tables 
of  dreams ; — but  not  so  with  thirst.  It  cannot  be  forgotten,  sleeping  or 
waking,  while  existence  is  retained.  It  will  make  itself  known  and  i'elt ! 
It  will  parch  your  tongue  and  burn  your  throat,  despite  your  utmost  endeavors 
to  thrust  it  from  memory ! 

Each  one  shouldering  his  burden  from  the  carcase,  we  took  up  our  line  of 
march  for  the  boat,  where,  arriving  in  four  or  five  hours  subsequently,  we 
quenched  our  burning  thirst  in  the  water  of  the  thrice  welcome  stream. 

The  country,  travelled  over  during  this  excursion,  for  the  first  ten  or 
twelve  miles,  was  a  level  plain,  presenting  a  thin  vegetable  mould  with  a 
luxuriant  growth  of  grass  and  herbage,  upon  a  substratum  of  sand  and 
gravel. 

The  remainder  of  our  route  led  through  a  ridge  of  hills,  many  of  them 
naked,  others  clothed  with  grass  and  ornamented  with  pines  ; — between  the 
tumuli  were  many  beautiful  vallons,  gorgeously  decked  with  wild-flowers  in 
full  bloom,  and  arrayed  in  mantles  of  living  green;  while  thick  clusters  of 
fruit-bearing  trees  and  shrubs  attested  the  general  fecundity  and  lent  their 
enchantment  to  the  scene. 

13* 


148  MOURNFUi  CASUALTY. 


Beyond  this  a  aentle  acclivity,  that  led  to  the  high  prairies,  spread  before 
the  beholder  a  wilderness  of  verdure,  without  one  moving  object  to  relieve 
its  cheerless  monotony. 

The  boats  were  unloaded  on  our  return  and  their  contents  placed  in  a 
compact  pile  upon  shore,  over  which  were  spread  two  thicknesses  of  lodge- 
skin,  to  protect  it  from  the  weather.  Other  necessary  arrangements  were 
soon  completed.  Two  men  being  selected  to  remain  with  the  robes,  two 
were  dispatched  to  the  Fort,  while  the  remainder  with  myself  were  to  make 
our  way  to  the  States,  if  possible,  in  an  empty  boat. 

Everything  was  put  in  order  for  departure  the  next  morning,  and  a 
gloomy  feeling  pervaded  each  mind  as  the  hour  approached  that  was  to 
separate  a  band  so  closely  united  by  mutual  sufferings,  toil,  and  depriva- 
tion. 

Those  selected  to  accompany  me  were  congratulating  themselves  on  the 
prospect  of  soon  reaching  the  termination  of  their  arduous  and  eventful 
expedition,  among  the  friends  and  acquaintances  of  other  days ;  and  none 
were  more  happy  in  the  anticipation  of  this  hoped  for  finale,  than  was  a 
lively  French  youth,  named  Prudom. 

Notwithstanding  the  general  tendency  of  circumstances  was  to  produce 
feelings  of  melancholy,  his  voice  rang  loud  in  announcing  the  varied  plans 
of  amusement  and  pleasure,  that  were  to  be  realized  upon  his  arrival  at 
home. 

For  this  day,  so  far  at  least,  he  had  been  the  petit  garqon  of  the  company ; 
and,  it  was  frequently  remarked,  as  his  quaint  expressions  and  sallies  of  wit 
burst  upon  the  ear,  "  What  in  the  world  is  the  matter  with  Prudom  ? 

His  good  nature  and  kindness  of  disposition  had  won  the  esteem  of  all 
acquainted  with  him,  while  his  cheerfulness  and  fortitude  at  all  times  con- 
tributed much  to  render  tolerable  the  dreariness  of  our  forlorn  condition. 

A  little  before  night,  the  company  indulged  in  a  general  cleansing,  ac- 
companied by  a  shave  and  change  of  clothes.  Prudom  was  among  the 
number,  for  whom  an  intimate  friend  officiated  as  barber ; — the  operation 
finished,  he  jokingly  remarked  : 

"  Well,  Tom,  1  suppose  this  is  the  last  time  you'll  ever  shave  me!" 

Little  did  the  poor  fellow  think  how  soon  his  words  were  to  be  verified. 
Seizing  his  rifle  he  stepped  on  board  the  boat,  and,  stooping  to  lay  it  by, 
exclaimed,  "  Here's  the  game  !" 

The  words  were  scarcely  uttered,  when  the  gun-lock,  coming  in  sudden 
contact  with  the  boat-side,  discharged  the  piece  and  shot  him  through  the 
heart !  He  staggered,  faltering  forth  "  Mon  Dieu  !"  and  fell  dead  at  my 
feet !" 

A  thrill  of  horror  struck  every  nerve  on  witnessing  this  tragical  event. 
If  we  had  previously  felt  melancholy,  we  now  felt  dismal  and  wobegone. 
He,  who  five  minutes  since  was  the  very  soul  of  cheerfulness  and  mirth, 
now  lay  a  lifeless  corpse  !  How  true  it  is,  we  "  know  not  what  a  day  or 
an  hour  may  bring  forth." 

The  sun  was  just  setting  as  we  commenced  digging  a  grave  in  which  to 
deposite  all  that  remained  of  our  friend  and  companion. 


HOW  WE  FARED.  149 

The  task  was  a  sad  one,  and  as  tedious  as  it  was  sorrowful.  We  had 
neither  shovel  nor  pick-axe,  and  were  compelled  to  dig  it  with  our  butcher- 
knives  and  hands. 

The  pale-moon,  new-risen,  shed  her  sombre  light  over  the  dismal  realms  of 
Solitude,  and  an  intervening  cloud  cast  its  pall-like  shaddow  upon  the 
scene  of  sepulture,  as  we  laid  low  the  corse  in  mother  dust.  No  shroud 
covered — no  useless  coffin  enclosed  it, — a  grave  was  the  only  gift  within 
the  power  of  friendship  to  bestow!  A  thin  coating  of  earth  succeeded  by 
a  layer  of  stones  and  drift-wood,  and  that  again  by  another  earth-coat,  was 
its  covering, — then,  the  mournful  task  was  done, — a  tear  dropt  to  the  mem- 
ory of  poor  Prudom,  and  his  body  left  to  slumber  in  its  narrow  prison-house, 
till  the  sound  of  the  last  trump  shall  wake  the  dead  to  judgment.* 

That  night  to  us  was  a  more  painful  one  than  any  we  had  passed.  A 
feeling  of  superstitious  awe,  mingled  with  thrilling  sensations  of  grief 
and  thoughts  of  our  own  miserable  condition,  occupied  each  mind  and 
usurped  the  soothing  powers  of  sleep.  The  dolesome  howlings  of  the 
prairie-wolf,  and  hootings  of  the  midnight  owl,  borne  upon  the  listening 
air,  kept  sad  condolence  with  our  musings,  and  gave  increased  momen- 
tum to  the  pressure  that  crushed  our  spirits.  Who  could  sleep,  amid 
such  scenes  and  surrounded  by  such  circumstances  1 

The  rising  sun  of  the  morrow  brought  the  hour  of  separation,  and  ex- 
hibited upon  every  face  the  same  downcast  look,  prefiguring  the  inward- 
workings  of  a  mind  absorbed  in  the  melancholy  of  its  own  thoughts. 

My  party  consisted  of  six,  some  of  whom  were  selected  from  the  crew 
of  our  consort.  We  all  embarked  in  one  boat,  taking  with  us  a  small 
quantity  of  robes,  (our  own  individual  property,)  and  a  portion  of  the  pro- 
visions at  camp. 

Our  voyage  for  a  few  days  succeeding,  was  performed  without  much 
difficulty,  except  in  the  article  of  food — for,  from  this  onward,  till  we 
finally  reached  the  settlements,  (an  interval  of  twenty-eight  days,)  we 
were  without  eating  full  one  half  of  the  time  ! 

Proceeding  some  thirty  miles,  we  overtook  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany's barges,  three  in  number,  the  crews  of  which  were  struggling  on 
in  vain  effort  to  reach  the  States.  We  glided  past  them  with  a  loud 
huzza,  and  rallied  the  poor,  toiling  voyageurs,  upon  the  futility  of  their 
exertions. 

Five  or  six  days  subsequently,  we  were,  in  turn,  overtaken  by  them  ; — 
they,  like  ourselves,  abandoning  all  hope  of  accomplishing  the  objects  of 
their  voyage,  had  left  their  freight  at  Ash  creek,  under  guard — and,  from 
that  on,  became  our  compagnons  de  voyage. 

The  only  game  previous  to  reaching  the  forks  of  the  Platte — a  distance 
of  some  two  hundred  miles — was  now  and  then  an  antelope,  with  a  few 
straggling  deer.  Our  subsistence,  meanwhile,  was  principally  upon 
"greens"  and  such  roots  as  we  had  time  and  opportunity  to  gather. 

The  country  was  pretty  much  of  a  uniform  character,  with  that  pre- 
viouslv  described.  The  rich  alluvion  of  the  river  bottom  reposed  upon 
a  varied  substratum  of  sand,  marl,  gravel,  and  clay. 

*  On  my  return  the  ensuing  fall,  I  learned  that  the  body  of  the  unfortunate  young 
man  had  been  disinterred  by  wolves  and  devoured. 


150  ON  FOOT. 


I  noticed  several  varieties  of  clays  in  the  river  banks  exposed  by  the 
attrition  of  the  water — of  these  were  the  white,  red,  black,  yellow,  blue, 
and  green. 

The  white  clay  is  much  used  by  the  Indians  in  cleaning  skins  and  robes  ; 
an  operation  performed  by  mixing  it  with  water  till  the  compound  as- 
sumes the  color  and  about  four  times  the  consistency  of  milk,  when  it  is 
applied  to  the  surface  of  the  article  in  hand  ;  the  robe  or  skin  thus  wash- 
ed, after  being  thoroughly  dried  in  the  sun,  is  rubbed  until  i4  becomes 
soft  and  pliable  from  friction,  and  the  grosser  particles  of  the  preparation 
are  loosened  and  removed. 

By  this  simple  process  skins  assume  a  milky  whiteness,  and  every  spot 
of  grease  or  dirt  is  made  to  disappear. 

All  kinds  of  skin  may  be  thus  cleansed,  and  will  readily  attain  an  un- 
soiled  purity,  surpassing  that  originally  possessed.  Red,  yellow,  black, 
blue,  or  any  other  kind  of  clay,  may  be  used  for  like  purposes,  and  will 
readily  impart  to  the  cleansed  articles  their  own  color. 

In  case  a  single  application  is  insufficient,  repeat  the  process  for  two 
or  three  times,  and  there  can  be  no  possible  failure  in  the  result,  provid- 
ed the  clay  is  pure  and  good. 

Some  twenty  miles  above  the  Forks,  we  passed  a  ridge  of  rocky  hills 
exhibiting  layers  of  limestone  and  sandstone  in  bold  escarpments,  that 
jutting  into  the  river  from  the  right,  formed  a  high  embankment  covered 
with  pines  and  cedars,  known  as  Cedar  Bluff. 

At  the  upper  side  of  this  point  stood  the  remains  of  an  old  Pawnee 
village,  which  had  been  deserted  by  its  inhabitants  immediately  after 
the  bloody  battle  between  that  nation  and  the  Sioux,  at  the  mouth  of  Ash 
creek. 

The  bottom,  for  several  miles  above,  is  rarely  excelled  in  fertility. 
The  islands  are  generally  timbered,  but  the  river  banks  upon  both  sides 
are  almost  entirely  destitute  of  trees  of  any  kind. 

From  Cedar  Bluff,  in  about  eight  miles,  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  a 
large  and  beautiful  creek,  forcing  its  way,  with  a  clear  and  rapid  current, 
from  the  high  rolling  prairies  to  the  north.  This  presented  the  appear- 
ance of  being  skirted  with  broad  and  fertile  bottoms,  well  supplied  with 
timber  among  the  hills.  Though  vested  with  some  importance  on  ac- 
count of  its  size  and  locality,  it  is  as  yet  nameless — the  abundance  of 
plovers  in  its  vicinity  at  the  time  of  my  passing,  suggested  the  term  "Plo- 
ver creek"  as  a  proper  appellation. 

Five  or  six  miles  further  on,  we  came  to  a  large  grove  of  cotton  wood 
upon  the  right  shore.  Here,  some  five  years  since,  a  company  of  traders, 
while  descending  the  Platte  in  boats  loaded  with  furs,  made  cache  of  one 
hundred  and  sixty  packs  of  robes,  which  they  were  compelled  to  leave  on 
account  of  the  low  stage  of  the  water.  The  luckless  party,  after  enduring 
great  hardships,  arrived  in  the  States ;  but  their  cache  was  subsequently 
plundered  by  Pawnees. 

The  confluence  of  the  North  and  South  Forks  made  but  little  perceptible 
difference  in  the  size  of  the  river.  From  the  junction,  in  five  days'  time 
we  reached  the  vicinity  of  Grand  Island,  about  two  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  from  the  nearest  white  settlements. 


EXPLORING  EXPEDITION.  161 

The  high  prairie  upon  the  north  shore,  between  the  above  points,  is  gen- 
erally sandy.  The  river  presents  numerous  clusters  of  islands,  most  of 
which  are  heavily  timbered  and  clothed  with  luxuriant  growths  of  vegeta- 
tion. The  soil  is  of  a  deep,  sandy  loam,  and  well  adapted  to  cultivation. 
I  noticed  upon  them  several  choice  wild  flowers  of  rare  beauty. 

We  experienced  great  difficulty  in  forcing  our  boats  through  a  large 
group,  called  the  "  Thousand  Islands,"  that  thickly  studded  the  river  for 
some  ten  miles,  and,  before  clearing  them,  found  our  passage  completely 
blockaded. 

Having  consumed  an  entire  day  in  vain  effort  to  proceed,  we  were  at 
length  compelled  to  abandon  the  idea.  The  water  was  constantly  falling, 
and  our  condition  hourly  becoming  worse.  This  forced  upon  us  the  dernier 
resort  of  performing  the  remainder  of  our  arduous  journey  on  foot. 

Accordingly,  making  cache  of  the  personal  property  with  us,  we  sunk  our 
barges  in  a  deep  hole  near  by,  threw  all  extra  clothing  into  the  river,  and, 
each  selecting  a  robe  with  as  much  meat  as  he  could  carry,  we  commenced 
our  weary  tramp. 

The  property  thus  disposed  of  was  of  the  value  of  several  hundred  dollars. 
Among  other  articles  left  in  cache,  were  arms  and  tools  of  various  kinds. 

No  one  would  now  carry  a  gun, — as  we  were  to  pass  through  a  section 
of  country  destitute  of  game,  and,  being  obliged  to  travel  with  all  possible 
despatch  to  avoid  starvation,  good  policy  prompted  us  to  dispense  with  every 
unnecessary  encumbrance.  For  myself,  however,  I  was  unwilling  to  re- 
linquish my  rifle,  and  determined  to  take  it  with  me. 

There  were  fourteen  of  us,  including  the  coups  de  barquelte  of  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company ;  and,  as  we  trudged  along  at  a  pace  enfeebled  by  a  series 
of  cruel  hardships,  fatigue,  and  starvation, — with  provisions  and  beds  bound 
in  close  bundles  and  strapped  to  our  backs, — half-naked,  long-bearded,  care- 
worn, and  haggard, — we  looked  like  the  last  remnants  of  hard  times  ! 

The  28th  of  June  dated  the  commencement  of  this  last  stage  of  our  tire- 
some pilgrimage. 

Having  travelled  some  ten  or  twelve  miles,  we  espied  a  camp  of  whites 
a  short  distance  in  advance,  and  were  observed  by  them  almost  at  the  same 
time.  Our  appearance  created  an  evident  consternation, — their  horses  were 
driven  in  with  great  speed,  and  their  guns  stripped  ready  for  action,  while 
our  or  five  men,  mounted  upon  fleet  chargers,  rode  out  to  reconnoitre. 

On  ascertaining  the  cause  of  their  alarm  to  be  only  a  handful  of  unarmed 
men,  they  ventured  up,  and  were  saluted  with  the  cordiality  of  old  acquain- 
tances, so  rejoiced  were  we  at  the  sight  of  anything  savoring  of  the  endear- 
ments of  home  and  civilization. 

The  company  proved  one  in  the  employ  of  the  United  States  Government, 
under  the  command  Lieut.  J.  C.  Fremont,  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical 
Engineers,  on  an  expedition  for  the  exploration  and  survey  of  the  country  . 
laying  between  the  Missouri  river  and  the  mountains. 

The  commandant  seemed  a  gentleman  of  urbanity  and  intelligence,  and 
politely  furnished  us  with  all  the  passing  news  of  the  day  preceding  his 
departure  from  the  States. 

Our  smokers  and  tobacco-chewers,  who  had  been  for  sometime  withoui 
the  sina  qua  non  of  the  mountaineer,  now  procured  a  re-supply  for  the  indul- 
gence of  their  filthy  and  unnatural  taste. 


152  INDIAN  KINDNESS. 

Leaving  our  new-found  friends,  we  continued  on  for  a  few  miles,  and 
halted  a  brief  interval  under  the  shade  of  a  cotton  wood  grove.  While  thus 
reclining  upon  the  green  grass,  what  was  our  surprise  at  seeing  three  In- 
dians, who  appeared  suddenly  in  our  midst  extending  their  hands  to  greet 
us  ! 

They  belonged  to  a  war-party  of  Chyennes, — had  been  to  the  Pawnees, 
and  were  now  on  their  return,  with  three  horses  captured  from  the  enemy. 

Continuing  our  course,  towards  sundown  I  began  to  find  my  rifle  rather 
cumbersome,  and,  yielding  to  the  advice  of  all  hands,  threw  it  away. 

Having  travelled  till  late  at  night,  we  laid  ourselves  down  in  the  trail 
for  repose; — the  musquetoes,  however,  together  with  the  heat,  were  so 
annoying,  sleep  was  impossible. 

I  never  in  my  life  before  was  so  tortured  by  these  relentless  persecutors. 
Their  sting  was  far  more  tolerable  to  me  than  the  unending  hum  of  their 
music.  To  exterminate  them  was  a  hopeless  task,  for,  at  the  death  of  one, 
fifty  would  come  to  its  funeral, — and  to  submit  quietly  to  their  rapacity  and 
be  eaten  up  alive  by  such  loving  friends,  was  more  than  human  flesh  and 
blood  could  endure. 

For  three  hours  I  lay,  sweltered  by  the  heat  and  pierced  by  the  hungry 
myriads  that  swarmed  around,  until  my  agony  became  so  great  it  obtained 
the  mastery  of  reason,  and  I  was  scarcely  self-conscious  whether  a  being 
of  earth  or  an  inhabitant  of  the  realms  of  woe. 

In  the  height  of  my  phrenzy  I  fancied  four  demons  had  hold  of  the  ex- 
tremities of  my  robe,  and  were  fiercely  dragging  me  over  a  prairie  of  sharp 
rocks,  that  tore  my  flesh  at  every  bound.  The  remainder  of  the  party  suf- 
fered equally  with  myself,  and  none  of  them  were  permitted  to  close  their 
eyes  that  night. 

June  29th.  We  started  at  early  day,  and  pursued  our  journey  till  ten 
o'clock,  which  brought  us  to  the  foot  of  Grand  Island, — a  distance  of  sixty 
miles  from  the  place  of  our  adventure  with  the  Indians  during  the  previous 
afternoon.  Here  we  indulged  in  a  slight  repast,  and,  reclining  upon  the 
grass,  enjoyed  a  few  hours'  sleep,  despite  the  continued  annoyance  of  mus- 
quetoes. 

On  arousing  to  resume  the  painful  march,  our  legs  were  found  in  a  very 
unenviable  plight,  and  almost  refused  to  sustain  the  accustomed  burthen. 
Our  feet,  also,  (softened  and  made  tender  by  the  mollifying  effects  of  the 
water,  to  which  they  had  been  so  long  familiar,  and,  unused  to  the  offices 
now  newly  forced  upon  them,)  were  sore  and  swollen  to  a  frightful  size. 
From  this  on,  our  journey  was  most  intensely  painful. 

But,  notwithstanding  all,  we  were  compelled  to  keep  moving,  though  our 
progress  seemed  more  like  the  passage  of  Mahomet's  "  bridge  of  swords  " 
than  aught  else  imaginable. 

July  2d.  This  morning  our  stock  of  provisions  was  entirely  exhausted, 
and  yet  a  long  distance  intervened  between  us  and  the  settlements. 

Towards  night,  however,  chance  brought  us  in  the  way  of  a  plentiful 
supper,  by  our  encountering  the  Pawnee  village  on  its  way  to  the  buf- 
falo range.  We  were  entertained  by  the  head  chief  in  a  hospitable 
manner,  who  furnished  us  bountifully  with  boiled  corn  and  mush;   and 


PART  COMPANY.  153 


we  were  also  invited  into  several  shantees  with  the  same  kind  in- 
tention. 

The  Pawnee  chief  (Red  Eagle,  if  my  recollection  serves  me  right) 
was  a  generous  old  fellow,  aged  some  sixty  years.  His  benevolence 
was  truly  exemplary,  as  his  conduct  well  attested.  My  moccasins,  be- 
ing much  worn  by  long  usage,  exposed  to  the  ground  the  bottoms  of 
my  feet.  This  was  no  sooner  discovered  by  the  noble-hearted  old  man, 
than  he  pulled  off  his  own  (a  pair  of  new  ones)  and  gave  them  to  me ! 

What  white  man  would  have  done  the  like  ?  And  this  was  done 
by  the  poor  Indian,  not  from  the  expectation  of  reward,  but  through  the 
promptings  of  an  innate  benevolence !  A  small  tin-cup,  taken  with  me 
thus  far,  was  the  only  return  in  my  power  to  make. 

Leaving  the  village  a  little  before  sundown,  we  encamped  for  the 
night  near  the  houses  recently  occupied  by  these  Indians,  after  having 
travelled  seven  or  eight  miles.  Their  buildings  are  coniform,  and  con- 
structed of  earth  and  timber,  very  similar  to  those  of  the  Kansas  tribe, 
described  in  a  previous   chapter. 

Several  years  ago,  the  Pawnees  were  a  numerous  and  powerful  na- 
tion, possessing  an  extensive  territory,  and  occupying  five  large  towns, 
viz :  one  upon  the  Republican  branch  of  the  Kansas  river,  one  at  the 
forks  of  the  Platte,  one  south  of  the  Arkansas  near  the  Cumanche  coun- 
try, one  on  Loup  creek,  and  one  some  ninety  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Platte.  These  several  divisions  were  known  by  the  terms  of  Pic, 
Mahah,  Republican,  Loup,  and  Grand  Pawnees.  The  Riccarees,  speaking 
the  same  language,  may  also  be  reckoned  a  fraction  of  this  tribe.  The 
five  villages  before  named  are  now  reduced  to  two,  i.  e.  on  Loup  creek  and 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Platte. 

The  whole  number  of  the  Pawnee  nation,  exclusive  of  the  Riccarees, 
probably  does  not  exceed  six  thousand  souls.  All  of  the  western  tribes 
being  at  war  with  them,  their  numerical  strength  is  continually  dimin- 
ishing. 

Slight  advances  have  been  made  towards  improving  the  condition  of  this 
nation,  but,  as  yet,  with  little  apparent  success.  A  farmer,  blacksmith,  and 
schoolmaster  are  provided  them  under  the  patronage  of  the  U.  S.  Govern- 
ment, and  a  missionary  is  also  stationed  among  them  by  the  American 
Board  of  Foreign  Missions. 

They  raise  corn  *  and  other  vegetables,  but  their  principal  dependence 
for  subsistence  is  upon  the  proceeds  of  hunting.  Their  general  character 
is  stamped  with  indolence,  treachery  and  cowardice,  for  which  they  have 
become  famous,  not  only  among  the  whites,  but  also  among  their  rude 
neighbors, — having  thus  attained  the  hatred  of  both. 

July  3d.  This  morning  we  parted  company,  and  each  of  us  undertook 
to  make  his  way  to  Council  Bluff  according  to  the  best  of  his  ability. 
Being  entirely  destitute  of  food,  it  became  us  to  urge  our  course  with  all 
possible  dispatch. 

*I  noticed  one  cornfield,  near  the  village,  that  contained  sixty  acres  or  more,  and 
in  appearance  savored  much  of  civilized  agriculture. 


I 


154  NOTES  BY  THE  WAY. 

July  4th.  Accompanied  by  two  others,  in  an  equally  forlorn  condition, 
the  "glorious  fourth"  finds  me  plodding  along-,  over  an  open  prairie,  be- 
neath the  scorching  rays  of  a  summer's  sun,  unarmed,  half-naked,  with  a 
shouldered  pack,  and  not  having  had  a  morsel  to  eat  for  the  past  two  days. 

It  is  now  I  think  of  the  festal  boards  and  scenes  of  good  cheer  so  omni- 
present upon  Freedom's  birth-day  in  the  land  of  my  nativity !  Mine  is 
a  mode  of  celebrating  Independence,  that  I  care  not  ever  again  to  observe. 

On  the  6th  we  reached  the  Ottoe  mission  and  obtained  food,  after  an  ab- 
stinence of  four  successive  days. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  7th  we  arrived  at  Council  Bluff  on  the 
Missouri,  eight  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Platte,  and  nearly  four  hun- 
dred above  Fort  Leavenworth.  In  the  course  of  the  day  following  our 
whole  party  came  in,  one  after  another — some  of  whom  had  become  so 
weakened  by  hardship  and  deprivation  they  could  scarcely  move  a  dozen 
yards  without  stumbling! 

Having  remained  a  few  days  at  Council  Bluff  to  recruit  our  strength,  we 
procured  canoes  and  descended  the  Missouri.  The  21st  inst.  found  me  at 
Independence,  Mo.,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  nine  months, — having  con- 
sumed seventy-five  days  upon  my  return  voyage,  and,  in  the  meantime,  ex- 
perienced a  series  of  suffering  and  misfortunes  seldom  equalled  and  rarely 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


The  country  between  the  Pawnee  village  and  Bellevieu,  and  from  that  to  Fort 
Leavenworth. — Leave  Independence  for  the  Mountains. — Meet  Pawnees. — In- 
dian hospitality. — Journey  up  the  South  Fork  Platte. — Fort  Grove. — Beaver  creek. 
— Bijou. — Chabonard's  camp. — Country  described. — Medicine  Lodge. — The  Chy- 
ennes ;  their  character  and  history. — Arrive  at  Fort  Lancaster. — Different  localities 
in  its  neighborhood. — Fatal  Duel. — Ruins. 

The  country  travelled  over  from  the  Pawnee  village  to  Council  Bluff 
(or  Bellevieu,  as  more  recently  called)  is  generally  possessed  of  a  rich, 
clayey  soil,  which  is  well  adapted  to  cultivation. 

Large  quantities  of  timber  skirt  the  streams,  that  include  all  the  varie- 
ties found  in  the  States.  The  landscape  is  beautifully  undulating,  and,  at 
the  time  of  our  passing  it,  was  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  vege- 
tation, (the  grass  being  frequently  waist  high,)  and  ornamented  by  rare 
specimens  of  wild  flowers. 

The  Pawnees,  Ottoes,  and  Omahas  possess  the  whole  extent  of  this  ter- 
ritory, which  embraces  much  valuable  land  within  its  limits.  That  north 
of  the  river  and  adjacent  to  Bellevieu  is  owned  by  the  Pottowatomies,  who 
also  claim  to  the  boundary  between  Iowa  and  Missouri. 


UNEXPECTED  ENCOUNTER.  155 

The  Kickapoos,  Iowas,  Sacs,  and  Foxes  occupy  the  country  south  of  the 
Missouri,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  to  Fort  Leavenworth. 

All  of  this  interval  possesses  a  fertile  soil,  is  well  watered  and  passably 
well  timbered.  A  more  particular  description  of  it,  however,  does  not  pro- 
perly come  within  the  limits  of  this  work. 

Upon  my  arrival  at  Independence,  affairs  were  in  a  rather  confused  state. 
Times  were  hard  and  all  kinds  of  business  at  their  lowest  ebb.  The  com- 
pany for  wThich  I  had  acted  had  become  bankrupt,  and  left  me  a  loser  to  no 
inconsiderable  amount.  But,  notwithstanding  this  unfavorable  aspect  of 
things,  I  decided  upon  returning  to  the  Mountains  for  the  purpose  of  visit- 
ing the  different  regions  adjacent  to  them. 

Acting  upon  this  resolution,  I  expended  the  means  at  my  immediate  com- 
mand for  the  procurement  of  an  outfit ;— rand  the  beginning  of  August  saw 
me  again  en  route,  accompanied  by  two  experienced  mountaineers — all  of 
us  mounted  upon  hardy  mules  and  well  provided  for  the  journey  before  us. 

The  first  four  or  five  days  subsequent,  our  progress  was  much  impeded 
by  successive  rains,  that  rendered  the  road  muddy  and  ourselves  uncom- 
fortable. We  were  necessitated  to  raft  the  Wakarousha,  and  the  Kansas 
was  so  swollen  it  was  forded  with  great  difficulty, — the  water  frequently 
covering  the  backs  of  our  animals. 

From  that  onward  we  enjoyed  pleasant  weather  and  journeyed  without 
further  interruption ; — nothing  occurred  worth  note,  till  we  reached  the 
Pawnee  range,  near  the  head  of  Big  Blue. 

One  morning,  while  travelling  along  unconcernedly  and  at  our  leisure, 
having  as  yet  observed  nothing  to  excite  our  apprehensions,  a  Pawnee  sud- 
denly made  his  appearance  directly  in  front  of  us. 

Such  a  customer,  had  we  been  aware  of  his  proximity,  would  have  been 
most  carefully  avoided,  in  a  place  so  dangerous  as  this  ;  but,  as  he  had  first 
discovered  us,  it  was  now  too  late  to  give  him  the  slip,  and  we  accordingly 
permitted  his  approach,  greeting  him  in  a  friendly  manner. 

He  immediately  informed  us  that  the  whole  country  was  full  of  his  peo- 
ple returning  from  their  summer-hunt,  and  he  invited  us  to  accompany  him 
to  the  village.  This  we  declined,  being  unwilling  to  trust  either  him  or 
his  people. 

Observing  several  other  "  shaved  heads  "  hurrying  towards  us  from  over 
the  adjoining  hills,  we  struck  camp  and  prepared  for  the  expected  rencoun- 
ter. Upon  coming  near,  however,  they  appeared  friendly  and  were  most 
of  them  unarmed.     Again  we  were  urged  to  visit  the  village. 

After  waiting  an  hour  or  more,  we  resumed  our  course,  still  followed  by 
the  unwelcome  visitors.  A  ride  of  scarcely  a  half  mile  brought  us  to  the 
top  of  a  hill,  and,  to  our  surprise,  placed  us  in  the  immediate  precincts  of 
the  village, — too  far  advanced  for  a  retreat. 

The  entire  population  was  instantly  in  motion,  and  came  crowding  to- 
wards us  upon  every  side.  Pushing  boldly  forward,  we  were  received  by 
the  same  kind-hearted  old  chief  of  whom  I  had  occasion  to  speak  in  the 
preceding  chapter.  On  recognizing  me,  I  was  welcomed  with  great  cor- 
diality, and  we  were  forthwith  conducted  to  his  shantee  and  sumptuously 
entertained  upon  the  choicest  in  his  possession. 

14 


156  JOURNEY  UP  SOUTH  FORK  PLATTE. 

Our  camp-equipage  and  other  articles  were  all  safely  disposed  of,  and 
nothing  conducive  to  our  pleasure  or  comfort  was  left  unattended  to.  Dur- 
ing our  entire  stay,  we  were  beset  with  invitations  to  feasts  which  were 
prepared  expressly  for  us  by  these  hospitable  villagers,  who  appeared  dis- 
pleased whenever  we  declined  their  acceptance. 

The  old  chief  brought  forward  his  little  grandson  to  shake  hands  with 
us — remarking,  that  he  would  teach  his  children  like  himself  to  love  the 
Americans. 

A  small  sack  filled  with  papers  was  then  laid  before  me  for  perusal. 
They  consisted  of  recommendations,  speaking  in  very  flattering  terms  of 
the  bearer,  Red  Eagle,  and  belauding  his  kindness  and  liberality.  Most 
willingly  would  I  have  complied  with  his  request,  and  made  "  the  paper 
talk  "  for  him,  but  the  means  were  not  at  hand. 

The  kind-hearted  old  man  presented  us  each  a  pair  of  moccasins 
and  urged  our  stay  till  the  next  morning, — adding :  "Some  of  my  men  are 
bad,  and  my  heart  is  sick  for  them.  Should  you  go  before  sleep,  they 
might  follow  and  rob  you.  When  the  morrow's  sun  has  newly  risen  above 
the  prairie,  they  will  have  left  their  foot-prints  in  the  homeward  trail,  and 
my  white  brothers  may  pass  unmolested.  But,  if  you  will  not  rest  beneath 
the  shade  of  the  Red  Eagle,  wait  till  the  day -king  is  low,  then  ride  fast  Jill 
the  night  is  old,  and  thus  may  you  avoid  the  evil  ones  who  would  injure 
you." 

This  advice  seemed  so  reasonable,  we  consented  to  remain  till  late  in  the 
afternoon,  when,  driving  up  our  animals,  we  made  preparations  to  start. 

Every  article  belonging  to  us  was  faithfully  returned  by  the  old  man, 
who  ordered  for  us  a  present  of  buffalo  meat.  Several  large  pieces  were 
accordingly  brought  by  different  individuals,  of  excellent  quality,  and  in 
quantity  more  than  we  could  well  carry. 

This  was  all  a  free  gift, — no  one  even  hinted  at  a  compensation.  Where 
will  you  find  among  civilized  man  generosity  and  hospitality  equal  to  this  ? 

Willing  to  rewrard  such  exemplary  conduct,  we  presented  the  liberal 
donors  with  a  small  supply  of  sugar,  coffee,  and  tobacco  ;  and,  to  our  host, 
we  gave  a  knife  and  some  other  trifling  articles,  all  of  which  he  received 
with  evident  gratification. 

Bidding  the  noble  chieftain  adieu,  we  pursued  our  course  in  accordance 
with  his  direction, — travelling  nearly  all  night. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  struck  the  Platte,  and,  in  the  afternoon, 
reached  the  point  at  which  myself  and  others  had  abandoned  our  boats. 

On  visiting  the  cache  made  at  that  time,  not  a  thing  remained ; — it 
had  been  robbed  by  the  Pawnees,  in  all  probability,  as  the  island  was 
covered  with  the  tracks  of  men  and  horses.  But  what  afforded  still 
more  conclusive  evidence,  was  the  site  of  a  recent  Pawnee  encamp- 
ment within  some  four  hundred  yards  of  the  place. 

The  next  morning  brought  us  to  the  buffalo  range,  and  our  fare  was  one 
of  continued  feasting  from  that  onward. 

Three  days  subsequently  we  came  to  the  forks  of  the  Platte,  and  con- 
tinued up  the  south  branch,  with  the  design  of  proceeding  to  New  Mexico 
by  way  of  Fort  Lancaster. 


MEETING  AGAIN.  157 

Here  we  entered  a  stretch  of  territory  not  as  yet  brought  before  the  read- 
er's notice. 

Passing*  on,  a  ride  of  between  fifty  and  sixty  miles  brought  us  to  a  large 
grove  of  willows  at  the  mouth  of  a  sand-creek,  where  we  remained  the  day 
following. 

The  vicinity  contained  the  relics  of  three  or  four  Indian  forts,  con- 
structed of  logs, — one  or  two  of  which  were  in  an  almost  entire  state  of 
preservation,  and  afforded  a  correct  illustration  of  Indian  military  genius. 
Their  forms  were  oval,  and  the  roofage  so  complete,  we  were  amply 
sheltered  in  one  of  them  from  a  heavy  shower  which  fell  during  our  stay. 

From  this  point  (properly  denominated  Fort  Grove)  to  the  forks,  the 
country  is  rather  sterile  and  rolling,  with  the  exception  of  the  river  bottoms, 
which,  as  usual,  are  possessed  of  a  rich  soil  and  vary  in  width  from  one  to 
five  miles.  There  is  scarcely  a  tree,  worth  naming,  upon  either  bank  of 
the  river  for  the  whole  extent. 

The  expanse  lying  to  the  northward  is  quite  broken  and  hilly,  with  some 
few  pines  and  cedars  at  the  heads  of  ravines. 

Previous  to  leaving  Fort  Grove  I  experienced  an  attack  of  the  fever  and 
ague,  which  recurred,  at  intervals  of  once  in  two  days,  until  we  reached 
Fort  Lancaster. 

Resuming  our  journey,  a  ride  of  some  ten  miles  brought  us  to  the  mouth 
of  Pole  creek,  a  large  affluent  of  the  right  shore.  This  is  a  clear  and 
handsome  stream,  running  through  a  rich  valley  of  considerable  width.  Its 
entire  course  affords  but  very  little  timber,  and  the  prairie  upon  either  side 
is  generally  sandy  and  barren. 

Journeying  on  about  seventy-five  miles  further,  we  came  to  a  large  stream 
called  la  Fouchett  aux  Castors,  or  Beaver  Fork. 

This  creek  heads  in  the  highlands  between  the  Platte  and  Arkansas,  and 
traces  its  course  through  a  sandy  country,  varied  by  diminutive  hills  of 
clayey  soil,  for  a  distance  of  nearly  two  hundred  miles.  It  presents  many 
beautiful  bottoms  of  a  rich  vegetable  mould,  with  here  and  there  small  clus- 
ters of  timber. 

Some  forty  or  fifty  miles  above  Beaver  creek,  we  crossed  Bijou,  another 
large  affluent  of  the  left  shore.  The  water  at  the  mouth  of  this  stream  was 
shallow,  dispersing  itself  in  several  small  channels,  over  a  bed  of  gravel  and 
quicksand,  about  four  hundred  yards  wide,  and  enclosed  by  abrupt  banks 
of  clay  and  sand. 

For  several  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Platte  no  timber  appears  ; 
but  further  on,  many  large  groves  relieve  the  eye,  and  invite  the  traveller  to 
their  shade,  while  broad  meadows  and  rich  bottoms,  clothed  with  grass  and 
flowers,  cheer  the  beholder  and  delight  his  fancy. 

Aug.  30th.  A  ride  of  ten  or  fifteen  miles,  from  this  point,  brought  us  to  a 
camp  of  whites,  in  the  employ  of  Bent  and  St.  Vrain,  occupying  a  small 
island  in  the  Platte.  They  were  guarding  a  quantity  of  robes  with  which 
they  had  attempted  to  descend  the  river,  but  were  unable  to  proceed  further 
on  account  of  low  water. 

I  was  much  gratified  at  here  meeting  an  old  acquaintance,  with  whom  1 
had  passed  a  portion  of  the  previous  winter  upon  White  river 


158  .     MEDICINE  LODGE. 

The  camp  was  under  the  direction  of  a  half-breed,  named  Chabonard, 
who  proved  to  be  a  gentleman  of  superior  information.  He  had  acquired  a 
classic  education  and  could  converse  quite  fluently  in  German,  Spanish, 
French,  and  English,  as  well  as  several  Indian  languages.  His  mind,  also, 
was  well  stored  with  choice  reading,  and  enriched  by  extensive  travel  and 
observation.  Having  visited  most  of  the  important  places,  both  in  Eng- 
land, France,  and  Germany,  he  knew  how  to  turn  his  experience  to  good 
advantage. 

There  was  a  quaint  humor  and  shrewdness  in  his  conversation,  so  garbed 
with  intelligence  and  perspicuity,  that  he  at  once  insinuated  himself  into 
the  good  graces  of  listeners,  and  commanded  their  admiration  and  respect. 

The  country,  between  Fort  Grove  and  Cabonard's  camp,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  river  bottoms,  (which  were  quite  fertile  and  occupied  an  area, 
upon  both  banks,  varying  in  width  from  one  hundred  yards  to  five  miles,) 
is  slightly  undulating,  and  presents  two  uniform  characteristics, — one,  a 
thin  clayish  loam  upon  a  subtratum  of  sand  and  gravel,  and  the  other  a 
sandy  surface,  often  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  save,  perchance,  a 
few  scattering  spires  of  coarse  grass  and  a  species  of  prickly  burr. 

Various  specimens  of  cacti  are  found  in  every  direction,  and  prove  a 
frequent  source  of  vexation  to  the  traveller.  The  landscape  discloses  a 
scene  of  dreary  sterility, — more  to  be  accounted  for  by  the  dryness  of  the 
climate  than  any  natural  defect  in  the  soil. 

The  river  upon  both  sides  is  nearly  destitute  of  timber,  and  we  were 
frequently  compelled  to  use  bois  de  vache  for  cooking  purposes.  There  is 
also  a  scarcity  of  rock, — though,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Bijou,  I  observed 
a  kind  of  grayish  sandstone,  exposed  to  view  in  the  beds  of  ravines ;  and, 
directly  opposite  Chabonard's  camp,  the  action  of  the  waters  had  formed  a 
steep  wail,  some  thirty  or  forty  feet  high,  which  disclosed  a  large  bed  of 
sandstone  and  slate,  with  earthy  limestone. 

A  few  miles  above  Beaver  Fork,  we  obtained  a  distinct  view  of  the  main 
ridge  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  with  the  snowy  summit  of  Long's  Peak, 
distant  some  sixty  or  sixty -five  miles.  They  appeared  like  a  pile  of  dark 
clouds  just  rising  from  the  verge  of  the  horizon,  and  could  be  identified  only 
by  their  uniform  and  stationary  position. 

From  the  time  of  first  entering  the  buffalo  range  till  we  reached  Bijou 
creek,  our  entire  course  was  beset  with  dense  masses  of  those  animals, 
which  covered  the  river  bottoms  and  prairies  in  all  directions,  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach.  Our  usual  practice  was  to  kill  one  every  day,  and  select 
from  its  carcase  the  choice  portions  so  well  known  and  highly  appreciated 
by  mountaineers ;  and,  calling  to  aid  the  varied  modes  of  cooking  peculiar 
to  hunters,  surely  never  did  epicures  fare  better  than  we. 

A  few  miles  above  Beaver  creek  we  passed  the  site  of  a  recent  Indian  en- 
campment, where  was  yet  standing  the  frame-work  of  a  medicine  lodge, 
erected  by  the  Chyennes  and  Arapahos  for  the  performance  of  their  reli- 
gious rites  and  ceremonies.  This  was  made  of  light  poles,  describing  an 
amphitheatre  with  a  diameter  of  some  fifty  feet.  In  form  it  was  much  like 
the  pavilion  of  a  circus,  and  of  sufficient  dimensions  to  contain  several 
hundred  individuals. 


SKETCH  OF  THE  CHYENNES.  159 

I  shall  take  occasion  in  subsequent  pages  to  speak  of  medicine-making, 
and  would  refer  the  reader  to  that  part  for  an  explanation  of  the  peculiar 
purposes  for  which  the  medicine  lodge  is  constructed. 

The  river  at  Chabonard's  camp  is  reduced  fully  one  half  in  width,  com- 
pared with  its  size  at  the  forks.  The  current  is  also  clearer  and  more 
rapid.  Its  banks  and  islands  are  much  better  timbered,  and  its  general  ap- 
pearance indicates  an  approach  to  the  mountains. 

About  noon  we  bade  farewell  to  our  new  friends,  by  whom  we  had  been 
kindly  entertained,  and  resumed  our  journey,  accompanied  by  my  whilom 
companion  and  two  others, — increasing  our  number  to  six. 

Towards  sundown,  coming  to  a  small  village  of  Chyennes,  we  passed  the 
night  in  the  lodge  of  a  chief,  called  the  Tall  Soldier.  Our  host  treated  us 
with  much  civility,  but  in  this  he  appeared  actuated  only  by  selfish  motives, 
and  with  the  sole  view  of  extorting  a  more  than  fourfold  equivalent  by 
way  of  presents. 

We  were  also  continually  harassed  by  beggars  from  all  quarters,  and 
gladly  availed  ourselves  of  the  first  dawn  of  the  ensuing  morning  to  pass 
on,  and  thus  escape  their  importunities. 

The  Chyennes  at  this  time  occupy  a  portion  of  the  Arapaho  lands,  bor- 
dering upon  the  South  Fork  and  its  affluents. 

Some  six  or  eight  years  since,  they  inhabited  the  country  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Chyenne  and  White  rivers  and  the  North  Fork  of  Platte,  from  whence 
they  were  driven  by  the  hostile  incursions  of  the  Sioux,  who  now  hold  in 
quiet  possession  the  whole  of  that  territory. 

This  tribe,  in  general  appearance,  dress,  and  habits,  assimilates  most  of 
the  mountain  and  prairie  Indians,  with  the  single  exception,  perhaps,  of  be- 
ing meaner  than  any  other.  They  are  certainly  more  saucy  as  beggars, 
and  impudent  and  daring  as  thieves,  than  any  other  I  ever  became  acquainted 
with. 

Formerly  they  were  a  much  better  people,  but  the  contaminating  effects 
of  intercourse  with  the  whites  have  made  a  disposition,  naturally  bad,  im- 
measurably worse.  Contrary  to  Indian  character  in  general,  they  are 
treacherous  and  unworthy  of  trust,  at  all  times  and  in  all  places. 

Their  history  contains  a  small  speck  of  romance,  which  may  not  prove 
altogether  uninteresting  to  the  curious. 

The  Chyennes,  at  the  present  time,  number  about  four  hundred  lodges, 
and  claim  some  eight  hundred  warriors.  The  tribe  is  composed  of  two 
divisions,  viz  :  the  Chyennes  and  Gros  Ventres, — both  speaking  the  saint 
language  and  practising  the  same  designation  of  nationality,  shown  in 
sundry  transverse  scars  upon  the  left  arm. 

Neither  of  these  divisions  know  their  origin,  but  tell  the  following  curious 
story  of  their  first  intercourse  with  each  other. 

Many  years  since,  the  Chyennes,  while  travelling  from  a  north  country, 
discovered  the  Gros  Ventres,  who  were  also  upon  a  journey.  As  usual 
among  strange  tribes,  both  parties  rushed  to  the  attack,  and  a  bloody  battle 
would  undoubtedly  have  been  the  result,  had  it  not  been  stayed  by  the  mu- 
tual discovery  of  an  identity  of  language.     Upon  this,  hostility  at  once  gave 

14* 


160  A  BROKEN  COMPANY. 

place  to  friendship,  and  the  two  parties  negotiated  an  immediate  union. 
►Since  then  they  have  been  considered  as  one  nation. 

What  is  most  singular  in  this  occurrence,  neither  the  Gros  Ventres  nor 
Chyennes  could  trace  any  previous  connection  or  intercourse  with  each 
other,  or  knowledge  of  their  individual  existence. 

This  tribe  has  made  no  advances  in  civilization,  and  most  probably  will 
make  none  for  many  years  to  come.  Their  roving  and  unsettled  habits 
prove  an  obstacle,  almost  insuperable,  to  any  efforts  that  may  be  underta- 
ken for  their  improvement. 

They  are  generally  accounted  friendly  to  the  whites,  but  friendship  like 
this  is  essentially  of  a  dangerous  character. 

Continuing  our  journey,  the  evening  of  Sept.  2d  brought  us  to  Fort 
Lancaster,  after  an  interval  of  twenty-six  days,  during  which  we  had 
travelled  not  far  from  seven  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 

Our  route  from  Chabonard's  camp  to  this  point,  for  the  most  part,  led 
along  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  which  resembled  a  garden  in  the  splendor  of 
its  fields  and  the  variety  of  its  flowers. 

A  ride  of  four  or  five  miles  took  us  across  the  dry  bed  of  a  large  sand- 
creek,  four  or  five  hundred  yards  wide,  known  as  the  Kuyawa.  The  banks 
of  this  arroyo  are  very  steep  and  high,  disclosing,  now  and  then,  spreads  of 
beautiful  bottom  lands  with  occasional  groves  of  cottonwood.  At  this  sea- 
son of  the  year  its  waters  are  lost  in  the  quicksand  and  gravel. 

We  also  passed  the  mouths  of  three  large  affluents  of  the  right  bank 
of  Platte,  severally  known  as  Crow  creek,  Cache  a  la  Poudre,  and  Thomp- 
son's Fork.^ 

These  creeks  rise  in  the  adjoining  mountains,  and,  with  the  exception  of 
Crow  creek,  trace  their  way  with  clear  and  rapid  currents,  from  two  to 
three  feet  deep  and  sixty  feet  wide,  over  beds  of  sand  and  pebbles.  Their 
valleys  are  broad,  rich,  and  for  the  most  part  well  timbered. 

Timber  increases  in  quantity,  upon  the  Platte  and  its  affluents,  as  the 
traveller  approaches  the  mountains,  and  the  soil  gradually  loses  that  with- 
ering aridity  so  characteristic  of  the  grand  prairie. 

Twelve  miles  below  Fort  Lancaster  we  passed  Fort  George,  a  large 
trading  post  kept  up  by  Bent  and  St.  Vrain.  Its  size  rather  exceeds  that  of 
Fort  Platte,  previously  described;  it  is  built,  however,  after  the  same 
fashion, — as,  in  fact,  are  all  the  regular  trading  posts  in  the  country.  At 
this  time,  fifteen  or  twenty  men  were  stationed  there,  under  the  command 
of  Mr.  Marsalina  St.  Vrain. 

Six  miles  further  on,  we  came  to  a  recently  deserted  post,  which  had 
been  occupied  the  previous  winter  and  summer  by  Messrs  Lock  and  Ran- 
dolph. 

One  of  our  party,  a  whilom  engage  of  this  company,  informed  me  of  its 
principals'  becoming  bankrupt,  through  mismanagement  and  losses  of  various 
kinds ; — he  stated,  that,  in  May  last,  their  entire  "  cavalliard,"  consisting  ot 
forty-five  head  of  horses  and  mules,  had  been  stolen  by  the  Sioux  Indians ; 
this,  in  connection  with  other  bad  luck — together  with  the  depreciated  value 
of  furs  and  peltries,  the  failure  of  a  boat-load  of  robes  to  reach  the 
States,  the  urgent  demands  of  creditors,  &c,  had  caused  them  to  evacuate 
their  post  and  quit  the  country. 


RUINS.  161 

A  short  distance  above  this,  at  a  point  of  timber  occupying  a  large  bot- 
tom, had  been  the  scene  of  a  fatal  duel  the  previous  winter,  between  two 
whites  by  the  names  of  Herring  and  Beer.  On  my  first  arrival  in  the 
country  I  had  become  acquainted  with  both  of  the  actors,  and  felt  much  in- 
terested in  the  details  of  the  bloody  aflaif  as  related  by  one  present  at  the 
time  of  its  unfortunate  occurrence.  The  difficulty  between  them  related 
to  a  Mexican  woman  from  Taos, — the  wife  of  Herring. 

Backed  by  a  number  of  personal  friends,  and  anxious  to  obtain  the  lady 
from  her  husband,  the  former  had  provoked  a  quarrel  and  used  very  insult- 
ing language  to  his  antagonist.  This  was  received  with  little  or  no  reply, 
but  soon,  however,  resulted  in  a  challenge  which  was  promptly  accepted. 

The  preliminaries  were  arranged  in  confident  expectation  of  killing  Her- 
ring, who  was  considered  a  poor  marksman,  especially  at  an  off-hand  shot. 
The  weapons  selected  by  Beer  were  rifles,  the  distance  fifty  yards,  the  man- 
ner off-hand,  and  the  time  of  shooting  between  the  word  fire  and  three. 
The  two  met,  attended  by  their  friends,  at  the  time  and  place  agreed  upon, — 
at  the  word  "fire"  the  ball  of  Beer's  rifle  was  buried  in  a  cotton  wood  a 
few  inches  above  the  head  of  his  antagonist, — at  the  word  "three"  the  con- 
tents of  Herring's  rifle  found  lodgement  in  the  body  of  Beer,  who  fell  and 
expired  in  a  few  minutes. 

Between  this  point  and  Fort  Lancaster,  I  noticed  the  ruins  of  another 
trading  post,  much  dilapidated  in  appearance,  and  nearly  levelled  with  the 
ground. 

Passing  along,  I  could  not  refrain  from  musing  upon  the  frequent  deeds 
of  mischief  and  iniquity  that  had  originated  within  them,  in  connection  with 
the  infamous  liquor  traffic.  Ah,  thought  I,  were  those  bricks  possessed  of 
tongues;  full  many  a  tale  of  horror  and  guilt  would  they  unfold,  to  stand 
the  listener's  "  hair  on  end,"  and  make  his  blood  run  cold !  But,  lost  in 
silent  unconsciousness,  they  refuse  to  speak  the  white  man's  shame ! 


162 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Old  acquaintances. — Indian  murders. — Mode  of  travelling  in  a  dangerous  country. — 
Mexican  traders. — Summary  way  of  teaching  manners. — Fort  Lancaster  and  sur- 
rounding country. — Resume  journey. — Cherry  creek  and  connecting  observations. — 
Sketch  of  the  Arapahos,  their  country,  character,  &c. — Camp  of  free  traders. — 
Blackfoot  camp. — Daugherty's  creek. — Observations  relative  to  the  Divide. — Mex- 
ican cupidity. — Strange  visitors. — The  lone  travellers. — Arrive  at  the  Arkansas. — 
General  remarks.— Curious  specimens  of  cacti  — Fontaine  qui  Bouit,  or  Natural 
Soda-fountain. — Indian  superstition. — Enchanting  scenery. — Extraordinary  wall  of 
sandstone. 

At  Fort  Lancaster  I  was  gratified  by  meeting  with  several  acquaintances 
of  the  previous  winter,  two  of  whom  had  been  comrades  during  a  part 
of  my  unfortunate  and  adventurous  voyage  down  the  Platte. 

My  appearance  created  no  little  surprise  and  pleasure,  on  all  sides. 
Queries  of  various  kinds  were  industriously  plied,  relative  to  the  latest 
news  from  the  States,  and  also  in  reference  to  the  miseries  and  hardships 
undergone  during  the  interval  of  my  absence.  The  dangers  of  our  mode 
of  travelling  were  freely  expatiated  upon,  and  numerous  instances  of  recent 
Indian  hostilities  cited  to  prove  our  "  fool  daring." 

Among  the  latter  was  an  outrage  perpetrated  by  the  Chyennes,  only  two 
weeks  previous,  in  the  murder  of  three  white  men, — one  of  whom  was  the 
oldest  trapper  in  the  mountains,  and  had  been  for  some  time  engaged  in  the 
fur  trade. 

The  murderers  had  the  impudence  to  ask  a  scalp-feast  from  the  com- 
mandant of  the  Port,  according  to  custom  in  case  of  overcoming  their  ene- 
mies in  battle  !  The  hair,  however,  being  recognized  as  that  of  a  white 
man,  no  feast  was  given.  When  accused  of  the  murder,  they  apologized 
by  saying  the  poor  fellow  was  suffering  greatly  at  the  time  from  recent 
wounds,  and  they  had  killed  him  out  of  pity  ! 

In  our  mode  of  travelling,  we  always  used  due  precaution  to  avoid  sur- 
prise and  attack.  This  is  easily  done,  while  among  buffalo,  by  noticing 
their  movements, — as  these  animals  invariably  flee  across  the  wind  upon 
the  approach  of  man,  and  neither  Indians  nor  whites  can  traverse  their 
range  without  setting  the  whole  country  in  motion. 

We  observed  another  plan  of  caution  by  frequently  ascending  some  emi 
nence,  and  scanning  the  wide  expanse,  far  and  near. 

Our  general  practice  was  to  travel  till  night,  and  camp  without  fire  in  the 
open  prairie,  thus  precluding  the  possibility  of  being  discovered,  even  though 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Indians. 

A  party  of  three  or  four  men  can  pass  through  a  dangerous  country  and 
avoid  coming  in  contact  with  enemies,  provided  they  exercise  a  needful  vigi- 
lance much  more  easily  than  one  of  larger  numbers.     With  a  large  company 


MEXICANS  IN  THE  MOUNTAINS.  163 

too  much  dependence  is  reposed  in  each  other,  which  soon  results  in  indi- 
vidual carelessness  and  neglect.  Added  to  this,  they  are  apt  to  rely  upon 
their  numerical  strength,  and,  forgetting  this  simple  truism,  that  "  caution  is 
the  parent  of  safety,"  rush  into  danger  when  they  are  least  a\\  are  of  it.  It 
thus  occurs  that  large  parties  are  more  liable  to  surprise  than  smaller 
ones,  and  more  frequently  suffer  losses  from  the  depredations  of  prowling 
enemies. 

On  the  contrary,  where  but  three  or  four  individuals  are  travelling  together, 
they  trust  exclusively  to  their  own  personal  vigilance.  Keenly  alive  to 
every  suspicious  appearance,  they  seldom  fail  to  discover  the  presence  of 
danger  without  exposing  themselves,  and  may  avoid  it  by  a  timely  retreat 
or  change  of  course. 

There  is  little  risk  in  an  open  prairie,  in  case  an  enemy  is  first  seen  by 
the  party  wishing  to  shun  his  presence ; — they  have  only  to  manoeuvre  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  elude  observation,  (a  thing  not  often  difficult,)  and  all 
is  safe.  In  subsequent  travels  through  dangerous  countries  I  have  always 
acted  upon  these  suggestions,  and  never  yet  found  them  to  fail. 

Some  twelve  or  fifteen  Mexicans  were  at  this  time  present  at  the  Fort. 
They  constituted  a  trading  party  from  Taos,  escorting  a  caravan  of  pack- 
horses  and  mules,  laden  with  flour,  corn,  bread,  beans,  onions,  dried 
pumpkin,  salt,  and  pepper,  to  barter  for  robes,  skins,  furs,  meat,  moccasins, 
bows  and  arrows,  ammunition,  guns,  coffee,  calico,  cloth,  tobacco,  and  old 
clothes,  which  were  to  compose  their  return  freight. 

A  worse  looking  set  was  here  presented  than  that  previously  described 
in  the  second  chapter  of  this  volume.  Some  of  them  were  as  black  as 
veritable  negroes,  and  needed  only  the  curly  hair,  thick  lips,  and  flattened 
nose,  to  define  the  genuine  Congo  in  appearance.  A  more  miserable  look- 
ing gang  of  filthy  half-naked,  ragamuffins,  I  never  before  witnessed. 

Their  cargoes  had  already  been  disposed  of  at  various  prices,  according 
to  circumstances.  Flour  and  meal  were  sold  at  from  four  to  six  dollars  per 
fanega,  (one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds,)  and  other  articles  at  like  prices. 
Their  first  asking  price  was  at  the  rate  of  twenty  dollars  per  fanega]  but 
an  affray  which  occurred  with  a  small  party  of  Americans,  immediately 
upon  their  arrival,  had  made  these  produce  merchants  much  more  reasonable 
in  their  demands. 

The  particulars  of  the  affair  were  rather  disgraceful  to  both  parties. 
The  Americans,  anxious  to  purchase  a  quantity  of  flour,  offered  to, take  it 
at  the  asking  price,  provided  the  Mexicans  would  receive  their  pay  in  robes 
of  a  rather  indifferent  quality.  This  the  latter  refused  and  a  dispute  arose, 
when  insulting  language  was  used  on  both  sides,  coupled  with  threats  of 
mutual  injury. 

The  Mexicans  retired  a  short  distance  and  camped, — soon  after  the 
Americans,  four  in  number,  rushed  among  them  and  drove  off  their  entire 
cavatimd,  containing  twenty  head  of  horses  and  mules.  The  Mexicans 
seized  their  arms  for  resistance,  and  the  commandanle  advancing  demanded 
of  the  nearest  assailant: 

"  Que  quiere,  cabellero  ?"  (what  do  you  want,  sir  ?) 

"  Yo  tenga  lo  caballardo, — porque  dicirme  esta?"  (I  have  your  horses,— 
why  do  you  ask  ?) 


164  FORT  LANCASTER,  ETC. 

"  Carraho,  Americana !"  said  the  Mexican,  levelling  his  gun  at  the  speaker. 
In  an  instant  a  pistol-shot  from  the  latter  laid  him  prostrate, — the  ball  en- 
tering his  chest  near  the  heart.  No  further  resistance  was  offered,  and  the 
assailants  retired  with  their  booty. 

The  next  morning,  however,  they  returned,  and  the  two  parties  com- 
promised the  matter  by  certain  conciliatory  arrangements,  which  resulted  in 
the  Americans  giving  up  the  captured  animals,  on  condition  that  the  Mexi- 
cans should  in  future  be  less  insolent  and  conduct  their  trade  on  more 
reasonable  terms. 

The  wounded  man  recovered  in  three  or  four  weeks,  and  was  now  ready 
to  accompany  his  party  on  their  homeward-bound  journey. 

A  large  number  of  Mexicans  are  employed  at  the  different  trading  posts 
in  this  vicinity.  They  prove  quite  useful  as  horse-guards,  and  also  in 
taking  care  of  cattle  and  doing  the  drudgery  connected  with  these  estab- 
lishments. 

Their  wages  vary  from  four  to  ten  dollars  per  month,  which  they  receive 
in  articles  of  traffic  at  an  exhorbitant  price ; — viz :  calicoes,  (indifferent 
quality,)  from  fifty  cents  to  one  dollar  per  yard ;  blue  cloth,  from  five  to  ten 
dollars  per  do. ;  powder,  two  dollars  per  lb. ;  lead,  one  do.  do. ;  coffee,  one 
do.  do. ;  tobacco,  from  two  to  three  do.  do. ;  second  hand  robes,  two  dollars 
apiece, — and  everything  else  in  proportion. 

Their  wages  for  a  whole  year,  in  actual  value,  bring  them  but  a  trifling 
and  almost  nameless  consideration.  Notwithstanding,  these  miserable 
creatures  prefer  travelling  four  hundred  miles  to  hire  for  such  diminutive 
wages,  rather  than  to  remain  in  their  own  country  and  work  for  less. 
They  know  of  no  better  way  to  get  a  living,  and  are,  therefore,  happy  in 
their  ignorance,  and  contentedly  drag  out  a  wretched  existence  as  best  they 
may. 

After  a  period  of  service  they  generally  return  home  laden  with  the  pal- 
try proceeds  of  their  toil,  and,  yielding  to  the  impulses  of  custom,  a  single 
fandango  is  sufficient  to  leave  them  penniless  like  the  squalid  crowd  with 
whom  they  mingle. 

A  week's  stay  at  the  Fort  restored  me  to  health  and  soundness  from  the 
debilitating  effects  of  the  fever  and  ague,  without  a  resort  to  medicine. 
This  disease  (the  first  and  only  attack  of  which  I  ever  experienced)  had 
made  fearful  inroads  upon  my  strength  during  the  short  interval  of  its  con- 
tinuance, and  rendered  me  unfit  for  travelling ; — but,  a  change  of  climate 
and  the  inhalation  of  the  pure  mountain  air  effected  a  permanent  and  speedy 
cure,  in  a  much  less  time  than  I  had  reason  to  expect. 

Fort  Lancaster  occupies  a  pleasant  site  upon  the  south  bank  of  the  Platte 
river,  about  nine  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  seven  hundred  and 
twenty  from  Independence,  in  lat.  40°  12'  25"  north,  long.  105°  53'  11" 
west  from  Greenwich.  The  distance  from  this  point  to  the  dividing  ridge 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  is  about  thirty-five  miles,  and  from  Taos,  in  New 
Mexico,  between  three  and  four  hundred  miles. 

Long's  Peak  with  its  eternal  snow  appears  in  distinct  view  to  the  west- 
ward, and  imparts  to  the  sunset  scenery  a  beauty  and  grandeur  rarely  wit- 
nessed in  any  country.  This  peak  is  one  of  the  highest  of  the  mountain 
range,  being  upwards  of  13,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 


SKETCH  OF  THE  ARAPAHOS.  165 


and  issues  from  its  eastern  side  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic,  and  from  its 
western  the  tributaries  of  the  Pacific. 

Between  the  mountains  and  the  Fort,  the  prairie  is  generally  level,  though 
slightly  undulating  in  places  ; — it  is  possessed  of  a  tolerable  soil,  composed 
of  clay  and  gravel,  ever  and  anon  spreading  before  the  traveller  rich  val 
leys,  decked  with  sweet  flowers  and  lusty  herbage. 

The  country  eastward  is  rolling,  sandy,  and  sterile  ;  and,  with  few  ex 
ceptions,  presents  little  to  attract  the  eye  or  please  the  fancy. 

The  Platte  bottoms,  above  and  below,  are  quite  heavily  timbered  and  af 
ford  an  abundance  of  grass  of  various  kinds.  The  soil  is  of  a  black,  deep 
loam,  very  rich  and  well  adapted  to  cultivation. 

The  business  transacted  at  this  post  is  chiefly  with  the  Chyennes,  but 
the  Arapahos,  Mexicans,  and  Soux  also  come  in  for  a  large  share,  and 
contribute  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  profitable  trading  establishments  in 
the  country. 

Sept.  10th.  Arrangements  being  completed  for  resuming  my  journey* 
I  left  Fort  Lancaster  in  company  with  four  others,  intending  to  proceed  as 
far  as  Taos  in  New  Mexico.  '  We  were  all  mounted  upon  stout  horses,  and 
provided  with  two  pack-mules  for  the  conveyance  of  baggage  and  provi- 
sions. 

Following  the  trail  leading  from  the  Platte  to  the  Arkansas,  or  Rio  Na- 
peste,  we  continued  our  way  some  thirty-five  miles,  and  halted  with  a  camp 
of  free  traders  and  hunters,  on  Cherry  creek. 

This  stream  is  an  affluent  of  the  Platte,  from  the  southeast,  heading  in  a 
broad  ridge  of  pine  hills  and  rocks,  known  as  the  "  Divide."  It  pursues  its 
course  for  nearly  sixty  miles,  through  a  broad  valley  of  rich  soil,  tolerably 
well  timbered,  and  shut  in  for  the  most  part  by  high  plats  of  table  land, — 
at  intervals  thickly  studded  with  lateral  pines,  cedars,  oaks,  and  shrubs  of 
various  kinds, — gradually  expanding  its  banks  as  it  proceeds,  and  exchang- 
ing a  bed  of  rock  and  pebbles  for  one  of  quicksand  and  gravel,  till  it  finally 
attains  a  width  of  nearly  two  hundred  yards,  and  in  places  is  almost  lost  in 
the  sand.  The  stream  derives  its  name  from  the  abundance  of  cherry  found 
upon  it. 

The  country  passed  over  from  the  Fort  to  this  place,  is  generally  sandy, 
but  yields  quite  a  generous  growth  of  grass.  We  passed,  in  our  course, 
the  dry  beds  of  two  transient  creeks,  one  eight,  and  the  other  fifteen  miles 
from  the  Fort. 

Our  route  bore  nearly  due  south  for  twenty  miles,  following  the  Platte 
bottom  to  the  mouth  of  Cherry  creek,  thence  southeast,  continuing  up  the 
valley  of  the  latter.  The  Platte  presented  heavy  groves  of  timber  upon  both 
banks,  as  did  also  its  islands,  while  its  bottoms  appeared  fertile. 

The  mountains,  some  fifteen  miles  to  our  right,  towering  aloft  with  their 
snow-capped  summits  and  dark  frowning  sides,  looked  like  vast  piles  of 
clouds,  big  with  storm  and  heaped  upon  the  lap  of  earth ;  while  the  vapor- 
scuds  that  flitted  around  them,  seemed  as  the  ministers  of  pent  up  wrath,  in 
readiness  to  pour  forth  their  torrents  and  deluge  the  surrounding  plains,  or 
let  loose  the  fierce  tornado  and  strew  its  path  with  desolation. 

Three  or  four  miles  before  reaching  our  present  camp,  we  passed  a  vil- 
lage of  the  Arapahos  on  its  way  to  the  mountains,  in  pursuit  of  game 


166  FREE  TRADERS. 

With  this  the  reader  is  introduced  to  that  nation  for  the  first  time,  which 
affords  me  occasion  to  speak  of  them  more  particularly. 

The  Arapahos  are  a  tribe  of  prairie  Indians,  inhabiting  the  country  bor- 
dering upon  the  South  Fork  of  the  Platte  and  Arkansas  rivers. 

Their  territory  embraces  an  extent  of  about  forty-five  thousand  square 
miles,  a  portion  of  which  is  well  watered  and  interspersed  with  numerous 
fertile  spots.  Timber  is  rarely  found,  except  in  the  creek  bottoms  and 
among  the  mountains.  A  large  section  of  it,  however,  is  dry,  sandy,  and 
sterile,  and  almost  entirely  timberless  and  destitute  of  water.  The  game 
of  these  regions  includes  all  the  varieties  common  to  the  mountains,  which 
are  quite  abundant.  The  territory  also  possesses  large  mineral  resources, 
and  includes  among  its  stores  of  hidden  wealth,  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead, 
iron,  coal,  soda,  nitre,  salt,  and  sulpher,  with  vast  beds  of  gypsum. 

This  nation  boasts  some  five  hundred  and  twenty-five  lodges,  numbering 
not  far  from  four  thousand  souls.  In  appearance,  as  well  as  manners  and 
customs,  they  assimilate  the  Sioux  and  Chyennes.  Their  insignia  of  na- 
tionality is  a  tattooed  breast,  by  which  they  are  distinguished  from  neigh- 
boring tribes.  They  afford  to  the  observer  the  rare  instance  of  increasing 
numbers  in  an  Indian  population. 

The  Arapahos  since  their  first  treaty  with  the  whites,  some  fifteen  years 
ago,  have  maintained  terms  of  the  strictest  friendship  on  their  part.  They 
have  never  been  known  to  kill  or  even  injure  a  white  man  in  the  interval, 
and  rarely  to  steal  from  him  any  article  of  value.  They  seem  to  take  pleas- 
ure in  the  bestowment  of  kindness  and  hospitality  upon  such  whenever  in 
their  power,  but  commonly  in  expectation  of  reward,  and  are  exceedingly 
annoying  as  beggars.     _ 

These  Indians,  though  brave,  are  less  warlike  than  contiguous  tribes, — 
being  at  variance  only  with  the  Utahs  and  Pawnees,  whose  countries  are 
severally  invaded  as  occasion  serves,  and  often  with  success. 

They  possess  considerable  taste  for  trafficing,  and  regularly  meet  the 
Sioux,  Chyennes,  Cumanches,  and  Kuyawas  for  that  purpose,  and  many 
of  them  know  how  to  drive  as  good  a  bargain  as  the  most  expert  Yankee. 

Notwithstanding  the  many  good  qualities  possessed  by  them,  they  are  in- 
ferior to  their  neighbors  in  morality.  The  Sioux  and  Chyennes  are  far 
more  chaste,  and  never  indulge  in  the  low  practices  common  with  the  Arap- 
ahos. Virtue  with  the  former  is  guarded  by  the  strictest  vigilance  and 
jealousy,  while  with  the  latter  it  is  made  the  minister  of  lust  and  is  prosti- 
tuted for  a  paltry  bribe. 

As  yet  no  effort  has  been  made  for  their  improvement,  though  I  regard  them 
as  more  susceptible  of  civilization  than  any  other  of  the  prairie  tribes.  They 
appear  to  be  great  admirers  of  the  manners,  customs,  arts,  and  mode  of  liv- 
ing prevalent  among  the  whites,  and  only  lack  the  requisite  instruction  to 
become  their  successful  imitators. 

The  camp  at  which  we  are  at  present  located  consists  of  four  lodges, — 
three  of  whites,  and  one  of  Blackfoot  Indians. 

Each  of  the  whites  has  his  squaw  wife,  and  the  usual  accompaniment  of 
ruddy  faced  children.  In  regard  to  the  latter,  I  must  say  they  were  more 
beautiful,  interesting,  and  intelligent  than  the  same  number  of  full-bloods, — 
either  of  whites  or  Indians. 


A  BLACKFOOT  CHIEF.—  Page  166. 


BEARS.  167 

These  men  were  living  after  the  fashion  of  their  new-found  relatives,  and 
seemed  to  enjoy  themselves  as  well  as  circumstances  would  admit.  They 
had  a  number  of  horses,  with  the  requisite  supply  of  arms  and  ammunition,— 
the  sure  sources  of  wealth  and  comfort  in  a  country  abounding  with  game. 

The  Indian  family  were  relatives  by  marriage,  and  were  one  of  some  fif- 
teen lodges  of  Blackfeet  among  the  Arapahos,  who  forsook  their  own  na- 
tion, on  account  of  its  uncompromising  hostility  to  the  whites.  Quite  a 
number  of  these  Indians  have  also  joined  the  Sioux  and  Nesperces,  for  a 
like  reason. 

We  were  entertained  very  kindly  by  our  new  friends  who  spared  no  effort 
to  render  our  stay  agreeable.  Among  the  delicacies  set  before  us,  was 
one  deserving  of  notice, — it  consisted  of  the  fruit  of  prickly  pears  (cacti) 
boiled  in  water  for  some  ten  or  twelve  hours  till  it  became  perfectly  soft, 
when  it  was  compressed  through  a  thin  cloth  into  the  fluid  in  which  it  had 
been  boiled.  This  forms  a  delicious  variety  in  mountain  fare,  and  one  highly 
stimulating  and  nutritious. 

The  immense  quantities  of  cacti  fruit  found  near  the  mountains,  at  the 
proper  season,  render  the  above  an  entertainment  not  uncommon. 

Sept.  13th.  Again  under  way ;  after  a  ride  of  fifteen  miles,  night  finds  us 
at  Blackfoot-camp,  snugly  chambered  in  a  spacious  cave,  to  avoid  the  disa- 
greeable effects  of  a  snow-storm  that  comes  upon  the  reluctant  prairie  with 
all  the  withering  keenness  of  winter. 

The  cave  affording  us  shelter  is  formed  in  an  abrupt  embankment  of  lime- 
stone, that  marks  the  eastern  limits  of  a  beautiful  valley  through  which  a 
small  affluent  of  Cherry  creek  traces  its  way.  The  floor  is  of  dry  gravel 
and  rock,  about  fifty  feet  long  by  fifteen  wide,  while  upon  one  side  a  crystal 
spring  presents  its  tempting  draughts.  Thus  chambered,  a  small  fire  soon 
rendered  us  comfortable  and  happy,  notwithstanding  the  dreary  weather 
without. 

Our  course  during  the  day  bore  southward,  and  led  from  the  valley  of 
Cherry  creek  to  an  interesting  plateau,  furrowed  at  intervals  by  deep  can- 
ons, enclosing  broad  bottoms  of  rich  alluvion,  and  ridged  upon  either  hand 
by  high  hills  of  pine  and  ledges  of  naked  rock. 

The  streams  are  generally  timberless, — the  soil  of  the  highlands  is  of  a 
red,  clayey  mould,  and  quite  fertile.  Instead  of  the  aridity  incident  to  the 
neighboring  prairies,  it  is  usually  humid. 

The  country  hereabouts,  for  an  extent  of  upwards  one  thousand  square 
miles,  is  much  subject  to  storms  of  rain,  hail,  snow,  an<*  wind, — and  it  is 
rarely  a  person  can  pass  through  it  without  being  caught  by  a  storm  of 
some  kind.  I  can  account  for  this  in  no  other  way  than  by  supposing  it 
has  some  connection  with  the  vast  quantities  of  minerals  lying  embedded  in 
its  hills  and  valleys. 

Sept.  14th.  Morning  was  ushered  in  with  a  pleasant  sunshine,  that  soon 
caused  the  snow  of  the  past  night  to  yield  beneath  its  melting  influences. 

When  on  the  point  of  raising  camp,  an  old  grizzly  bear  made  her  appear- 
ance with  three  cubs.  An  effort  to  approach  her  proved  futile, — she,  hav. 
ing  snuffed  the  closeness  of  danger  with  the  breeze,  made  a  hasty  retreat 
with  her  offspring. 


163  NIGHT  VISITORS. 

I  allude  to  the  above  incident  for  this  reason,  that  it  is  generally  supposed 
the  bear  produces  but  two  at  a  birth. 

Continuing  our  journey  till  late  at  night,  we  reached  an  affluent  of  Fon- 
taine qui  Bouit,  called  Daugherty's  creek,  after  travelling  a  distance  of 
some  thirty  miles.  Here  we  remained  for  three  or  four  days,  to  procure  a 
further  supply  of  provisions. 

The  route  from  Blackfoot-camp,  for  the  most  part,  led  over  a  rough 
country,  interspersed  with  high  piny  ridges  and  beautiful  valleys,  sustain- 
ing a  luxuriant  growth  of  vegetation,  which  is  known  as  the  Divide. 

This  romantic  region  gives  rise  to  several  large  tributaries  both  of  the 
Platte  and  Arkansas,  and  furnishes  the  main  branches  of  the  Kansas.  Its 
geological  classifications  consist  of  sandstone,  limestone,  granite,  and  cre- 
taceous rock.  Large  quantities  of  silex  are  also  found,  together  with 
many  interesting  specimens  of  petrifaction  that  principally  consist  of  pine 
wood ;  these,  in  many  cases,  exhibit  the  tree  in  its  perfect  shape,  with  all 
the  grains  and  pores  that  marked  its  growth. 

A  ride  of  three  hours  took  us  past  the  heads  of  Bijou  and  Kuyawa, 
whose  clear  and  swift  currents,  confined  to  narrow  beds,  here  presented  a 
striking  contrast  to  those  remarked  at  their  confluence  with  the  Platte. 

Continuing  on  a  few  miles,  we  reached  Black  Squirrel  creek,  an  affluent 
of  the  Arkansas ;  and  from  thence,  after  a  brisk  trot  for  some  fourteen 
miles  over  a  nearly  level  prairie,  we  came  to  our  present  camp. 

Our  place  of  stay  was  in  sweet  little  valley  enclosed  by  piny  ridges. 
The  entrance  leading  to  it  is  through  a  defile  of  hills  from  whose  rugged 
sides  protrude  vast  piles  of  rock,  that  afford  a  pass  of  only  fifty  or  a  hun- 
dred yards  in  width.  An  abundance  of  grass  greets  the  eye,  arrayed  in 
the  loveliness  of  summer's  verdancy,  and  blooming  wild-flowers  nod  to  the 
breeze  as  enchantingly  as  when  the  fostering  hand  of  spring  first  awoke 
them  to  life  and  to  beauty. 

The  creek  derives  its  name  from  Daugherty,  a  trader  who  was  murder- 
ed upon  it  several  years  since.  At  the  time  he  was  on  his  way  to  the  Ar- 
kansas with  a  quantity  of  goods,  accompanied  by  a  Mexican.  The  latter, 
anxious  to  procure  a  few  yards  of  calico  that  constituted  a  part  of  the 
freight,  shot  him  in  cold  blood,  and  hastened  to  Taos  with  his  ill-gotten 
gains,  where  he  unblushingly  boasted  of  his  inhuman  achievement. 

My  excursions  among  the  hills  brought  before  me  many  interesting 
geological  specimens,  mostly  such  as  characterize  the  Divide.  I  noticed 
two  or  three  extensive  beds  of  stone  coal  in  the  vicinity  of  the  creek,  with 
an  abundance  of  nitre  and  other  mineral  salts. 

Having  killed  three  fine  cows  during  the  five  days  we  remained  at  thi3 
place,  the  scent  of  fresh  meat  attracted  an  old  bear  and  her  cub,  which,  in 
the  expectation  of  a  choice  repast,  were  induced  to  pay  us  a  night  visit. 

We  were  quietly  reposing  at  the  time,  nor  dreamed  of  the  ungainly 
monsters  within  camp,  till  their  harsh  growls  grated  upon  our  ears  and 
raised  us  each  to  a  speedy  consciousness.  Instantly  every  rifle  was 
clenched  and  levelled  at  the  unwelcome  intruders;  and  two  discharges 
bespoke  their  warm  reception.  The  bears,  not  fancying  this  new  test 
of  friendship,  quickly  withdrew  and  permitted  us  to  resume  our  slumbers. 

Fitzpatrick  and  Van   Dusen,   two  old   mountaineers,  passed   our  en- 


/ 

SODA  SPRING.  169 

campment,  in  the  interim,  on  their  way  to  the  States.  Having  devoted  a 
number  of  years  to  the  business  of  trapping,  few  possess  a  more  intimate 
knowledge  of  this  country  than  they.  The  former  of  these  gentlemen  was 
on  his  return  from  Oregon  with  dispatches  for  the  U.  S.  Government,  and 
had  acted  as  pilot  for  a  party  of  emigrants  to  that  territory  during  the  pre- 
vious summer.  After  conducting  his  charge  to  their  place  of  destination, 
he  and  his  companion  had  travelled  thus  far  alone,* — a  distance  of  more 
than  one  thousand  miles. 

Sept.  19th.  Leaving  Daugherty's  creek  we  resumed  our  course,  and 
reached  the  Arkansas  the  next  day,  about  noon.  Here  we  encamped  in  a 
small  grove  of  cottonwood  upon  the  right  bank,  a  few  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  Fontaine  qui  Bouit. 

In  gaining  this  point  we  travelled  some  forty-five  miles,  mostly  over  a 
sandy  prairie,  slightly  undulating  to  the  leftward,  but,  to  the  right,  descri- 
bing the  waves  of  a  tempest-tossed  ocean. 

Its  general  character  is  sterility ;  the  grass  gowing  thinly  and  being  of  a 
coarse  kind,  with  the  exception  of  that  of  the  creek  bottoms,  which  affords 
several  varieties  of  a  lusty  size,  mingled  with  occasional  spreads  of  prele — 
a  choice  article  for  the  subsistence  of  horses  and  mules. 

In  passing  along,  I  observed  a  new  species  of  the  cacti  family,  that  grew 
in  a  shurb-like  form  to  a  height  of  five  or  six  feet.  Its  stalk  was  round 
and  fully  an  inch  in  diameter. 

This  made  the  fourth  variety  of  cactus  noticed  during  the  past  few  days. 
Of  these,  two  resemble  the  common  "  prickly  pear  "  in  their  appearance. 
Another  species,  however,  was  egg-shaped,  bearing  a  fruit  much  like  the 
cranberry  in  color  and  form.  At  the  proper  season,  it  also  produces  a  beau- 
tiful red  flower,  that  emits  a  most  agreeable  perfume,  in  some  measure 
atoning  for  its  dreaded  intrusion  upon  the  path  of  the  wayfarer. 

Fontaine  qui  Bouit,  or  the  Boiling  Fountain,  is  the  name  bestowed  upon 
a  considerable  stream  that  heads  under  Pike's  Peak,  in  lat.  38°  52'  10" 
north,  long.  105°  22'  45"  west  from  Greenwich,  and  pursues  a  southerly 
course  till  it  unites  with  the  Arkansas. 

This  name  is  derived  from  two  singular  springs,  situated  within  a  few 
yards  of  each  other  at  the  creek's  head,  both  of  which  emit  water  in  the 
form  of  vapor,  accompanied  with  a  hissing  noise — the  one  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  sulphur  and  the  other  with  soda.f 

*  Before  reaching  the  States,  however,  he  was  robbed  of  everything  in  his  posses- 
sion by  a  war-party  of  Pawnees,  whom  he  had  imprudently  surlered  to  obtain  the 
advantage.  He  would,  doubtless,  have  been  killed  had  it  not  been  for  the  determined 
courage  of  Van  Dusen.  The  latter,  seizing  his  rifle,  levelled  it  at  the  foremost  and 
thus  deterred  a  further  advance ;  then,  by  an  adroit  movement,  breaking  from 
them,  set  pursuit  at  defiance  through  his  fleetness  of  foot. 

The  Pawnees,  now  well  aware  that  further  outrages  would  be  made  known  and 
become  a  subject  of  investigation  by  the  U.  S.  Government,  forbore  their  designs, 
and  returned  to  Fitzpatrick  his  gun  and  one  mule,  with  which  he  accomplished  the 
remainder  of  his  journey  alone.  Van  Dusen,  having  succeeded  in  reaching  Bent's 
Fort  on  the  Arkansas,  reported  his  companion  as  killed  by  them. 

t  Capt.  Fremont,  who  visited  Fontaine  qui  Bouit  in  the  summer  of  '43,  has  furnish 
ed  the  following  analysis  of  an  incrustation  with  which  the  water  of  this  spring  ha"? 


170  A  LOVELY  VALLEY. 

~— ~  ^^~~~_       »     ^  «       j .  ~^~ 

The  soda  water  is  fully  as  good  as  any  manufactured  for  especial  use, 
and  sparkles  and  foams  with  equal  effervescence.  This  spring,  though  at 
present  cool,  is  said  to  have  been  formerly  quite  the  reverse.  Some  twen- 
ty years  since,  the  heat  was  sufficient  to  cook  flesh  in  an  half  hour's  time, 
if  submerged  in  its  waters. 

The  Arapahos  regard  this  phenomenon  with  awe,  and  venerate  it  as  the 
manifestation  of  the  immediate  presence  of  the  Great  Spirit.  They  call  it 
the  Medicine  Fountain,  and  seldom  neglect  to  bestow  their  gifts  upon  it 
whenever  an  opportunity  is  presented. 

These  offerings  generally  consist  of  robes,  blankets,  arrows,  bows, 
knives*  beads,  moccasins,  &c,  which  they  either  throw  into  the  water  or 
hang  upon  the  surrounding  trees.  Sometimes  a  whole  village  will  visit 
the  place  for  the  purpose  of  paying  their  united  regard  to  this  sacred 
fountain. 

The  seceneiy  of  the  vicinity  is  truly  magnificent.  A  valley  several 
yards  in  width  heads  at  the  springs,  overlooking  which  from  the  west  in 
almost  perpendicular  ascent  tower  the  lofty  summits  of  Pike's  Peak,  piercing 
the  clouds  and  revelling  in  eternal  snow,  at  an  altitude  of  12,500  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

This  valley  opens  eastward,  and  is  walled  in  upon  the  right  and  left,  at 
the  mountains'  base,  by  a  stretch  of  high  table  land,  surmounted  by  oaks 
and  stately  pines,  with  now  and  then  an  interval  displaying  a  luxuriant 
coating  of  grass.  The  soil  is  a  reddish  loam,  and  very  rich.  The  trees 
which  skirt  the  creek  as  it  traces  its  way  from  the  fountain  are  generally 
free  from  under-brush,  and  show  almost  as  much  regularity  of  position  as 
if  planted  by  the  hand  of  art.  A  lusty  growth  of  vegetation  is  sustained 
among  them  to  their  very  trunks,  which  is  garnished  by  wild  flowers,  that, 
during  the  summer  months,  invest  the  whole  scene  with  an  enchantment 
peculiar  to  itself. 

The  climate  too  is  far  milder  in  this  than  in  adjoining  regions,  even  of 
a  more  southern  latitude.  'Tis  here  "  summer  first  unfolds  her  robes,  and 
here  the  longest  tarries."  The  grass,  continuing  green  the  entire  winter, 
here  first  feels  the  genial  touch  of  spring.  Snow  seldom  remains  upon  the 
ground  to  exceed  a  single  day,  even  in  the  severest  weather,  while  the 
neighboring  hills  and  prairies  present  their  white  mantlings  for  weeks  in 
succession. 

As  the  creek  emerges  from  the  mountains,  it  increases  in  size  by  the  ac- 
cession of  several  tributaries,  and  the  valley  also  expands  to  a  width  of 

covered  a  piece  of  wood ;  and,  though  probably  not  a  fair  test,  it  will  afford  the 
reader  some  idea  of  its  mineral  properties  : 

Carbonate  of  lime 

Carbonate  of  magnesia 

Sulphate  of  lime 

Chloride  of  calcium      > 

Chloride  of  magnesia 

Silica 

Vegetable  matter 

Moisture  and  loss 

100,  00 


92, 

2f> 

1, 

21 

23 

1, 

50 

20 

4, 

GL 

VICINITY  OF  THE  ARKANSAS.  171 

three  or  four  miles,  retaining  for  a  considerable  distance  the  distinguishing 
traits  before  described. 

The  vicinity  affords  an  abundance  of  game,  among  which  are  deer, 
sheep,  bear,  antelope,  elk,  and  buffalo,  together  with  turkeys,  geese,  ducks, 
grouse,  mountain-fowls,  and  rabbits. 

Affording,  as  it  does,  such  magnificent  and  delightful  scenery ;  such 
rich  stores  for  the  supply  of  human  wants,  both  to  please  the  taste  and  en- 
rapture the  heart ;  so  heaven-like  in  its  appearance  and  character,  it  is  no 
wonder  the  untaught  savage  reveres  it  as  the  place  wherein  the  Good 
Spirit  delights  to  dwell,  and  hastens  with  his  free-will  offerings  to  the 
stranae  fountain,  in  the  full  belief  that  its  bubbling  waters  are  the  more 
immeaiate  impersonation  of  Him  whom  he  adores. 

But,  there  are  other  scenes  adjoining  this,  that  demand  a  passing  notice. 
A  few  miles  above  Fontaine  qui  Bouit,  and  running  parallel  with  the  east- 
ern base  of  the  mountain  range,  several  hundred  yards  removed  from 
it,  a  wall  of  coarse,  red  granite  (quite  friable  and  constantly  abrading) 
towers  to  a  varied  height  of  from  fifty  to  three  hundred  feet. 

This  wall  is  formed  of  immense  strata,  planted  vertically  and  not  ex- 
ceeding eight  feet  in  thickness,  with  frequent  openings — so  arranged  as  to 
describe  a  complete  line. 

The  soil  in  which  they  appear  is  of  a  reddish  loam,  almost  entirely  des- 
titute of  other  rock,  even  to  their  very  base. 

This  mural  tier  is  isolated,  and  occupies  its  prairie  site  in  silent  majesty, 
as  if  to  guard  the  approaches  to  the  stupendous  monuments  of  nature's 
handiwork  that  form  the  back-ground,  disclosing  itself  to  the  beholder  for 
a  distance  of  more  than  thirty  miles. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


Vicinity  of  the  Arkansas— Settlement—The  Pueblo.— Rio  San  Carlos,  its  valleys 
and  scenery.— Shooting  by  moonlight,— Taos.— Review  of  the  country  travelled 
over. — Taos ;  its  vicinity,  scenery,  and  mines. — Ranchos  and  Rancheros. — Mexi- 
can houses ;  their  domestic  economy,  and  filth.— -Abject  poverty  and  deplorable 
condition  of  the  lower  classes  of  Mexicans,  with  a  general  review  of  their  char- 
acter,  and  some  of  tfie  causes  contributing  to  their  present  degradation.— The  Tue- 
blo  Indians  and  their  strange  notions.— Ancient  temple.— Character  of  the  Pueblos 
—Journey  to  the  Uintah  river,  and  observations  by  the  way.— Taos  Utahs,  Pa- 
utahs,  Uintah  and  Lake  Utahs.— The  Diggers;  misery  of  their  situation,  strange 
mode  of  living,  with  a  sketch  of  their  character.— The  Navijos;  their  civilization, 
hostility  to  Spaniards,  ludicrous  barbarity,  bravery,  &c,  with  a  sketch  of  their 
country,  and  why  they  are  less  favorable  to  the  whites  than  formerly. 

The  Arkansas  at  this  point  is  a  clear  and  beautiful  stream,  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide.  It  flows  over  a  bed  of  rock  and  pebbles, 
with  a  rapid  current,  averaging  two  feet  in  depth.  Its  southern  bank  i<? 
steep  and  inducts  to  a  high  sandy  prairie,  which  present  a  somewhat  ster- 

15* 


172  THE  RIO  SAN  CARLOS. 

ile  and  denuded  appearance.  The  northern  shore  affords  a  wide  bottom  of 
black  loam,  generally  fertile,  and  timbered  with  occasional  groves  of  Cot- 
tonwood. Beyond  this  a  high  undulating  prairie,  presenting  now  and  then 
a  cluster  of  pines  and  cedars,  leads  off  to  the  neighboring  mountains. 

The  river  above,  for  a  distance  of  some  forty  miles,  possesses  many 
beautiful  valleys,  well  timbered,  and  a  rich  soil,  until  the  traveller  arrives 
at  the  place  where  it  makes  its  entree  from  the  lofty  mountain  chain  in 
which  it  heads. 

The  land  indicates  a  fitness  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  holds  out 
strong  inducements  to  emigrants.  A  small  settlement  of  whites  and 
half-breeds,  numbering  fifteen  or  twenty  families,  has  already  been  com- 
menced about  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Fontaine  qui  Bouit  under 
quite  favorable  auspicies.  The  only  fears  entertained  for  its  success,  are 
on  account  of  the  Indians. 

Many  other  localities  in  this  vicinity  are  equally  inviting  were  it  not  for 
the  character  and  habits  of  the  surrounding  natives. 

At  the  delta,  formed  by  the  junction  of  Fontaine  qui  Bouit  with  the 
Arkansas,  a  trading  fort,  called  the  Pueblo,  was  built  during  the  summer 
of  1842.  This  post  is  owned  by  a  company  of  independent  traders,  on 
the  common  property  system;  and,  from  its  situation,  can  command  a 
profitable  trade  with  both  Mexicans  and  Indians.  Its  occupants  number 
ten  or  twelve  Americans,  most  of  whom  are  married  to  Mexican  women, 
while  everything  about  the  establishment  wears  the  aspect  of  neatness 
and  comfort. 

Sept.  22d.  Crossing  the  Arkansas,  I  for  the  first  time  set  foot  upon 
Mexican  soil. 

Taking  the  Taos  trail,  we  continued  our  way  for  ten  or  twelve  miles 
and  came  to  the  Rio  San  Carlos.  Here  the  abundance  of  deer  and  tur- 
keys was  too  great  a  temptation  to  be  resisted,  and  we  remained  several 
days  to  bestow  upon  them  that  attention  our  appetites  demanded. 

The  country  adjacent  is  very  romantic  and  beautiful.  The  hills,  en 
closing  the  valley  of  the  San  Carlos  upon  both  sides,  are  high  and  preci- 
pitous,— affording  numerous  groves  of  pine,  pinion,*  and  cedar.  Inter- 
spersed among  them  are  frequent  openings  and  prairillons  of  rich  soil 
and  luxuriant  vegetation.  The  valley  is  narrow,  but  fertile  and  well 
timbered. 

Near  the  head  of  the  river  is  a  broad  area,  known  as  Fisher's-hole,  bound- 
ed upon  all  sides  by  rugged  hills  and  mountains,  inaccessible  except  by 
a  circuitous  pass  leading  into  it  from  the  south.  The  stream  forces  its 
egress  through  a  ledge  of  dark-colored  rock,  several  hundred  feet  in  alti- 
tude, leaving  vertical  walls  upon  each  side  for  a  long  distance,  that  fre- 
quently overhang  the  gurgling  waters  sweeping  at  their  base. 

*  This  tree  is  a  species  of  pine,  quite  common  in  New  Mexico,  California,  and 
some  parts  of  the  mountains.  It  yields  a  kind  of  nut  similar  to  that  of  the  beech, 
which  is  esteemed  as  an  article  of  food.  Wild  turkeys  delight  to  frequent  groves  of 
this  timber,  and  will  thrive  in  an  extraordinary  manner  upon  pinion-nuts. 


TAOS  AND  ITS  VICINITY.  173 


This  valley  contains  more  than  a  thousand  acres  of  choice  land,  well 
supplied  with  timber  from  the  heavy  pine  forests  surrounding  it. 

The  prevailing  rock  is  granite,  sandstone,  limestone,  and  lias,  with 
occasional  conglomerates  of  various  kinds.  I  noticed  strong  indications 
of  copper  and  other  minerals  ;  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  coun- 
try led  me  to  conclude  it  to  be  one  possessed  of  vast  stores  of  hidden 
wealth. 

While  here,  we  were  quite  successful  in  replenishing  our  stock  of 
provisions. 

My  experiments  in  turkey-hunting  made  me  a  proficient  shot  by  moon- 
light, a  feat  which  adds  materially  to  the  sport.  This  is  done  by  manoeu- 
vring so  as  to  have  the  turkey  in  a  direct  line  between  the  marksman 
and  the  moon,  causing  its  shadow  to  fall  upon  his  face, — then,  raising  his 
rifle  to  a  level  from  the  ground  upwards,  the  instant  the  sight  becomes 
darkened  he  fires,  and,  if  his  piece  be  true,  seldom  fails  to  make  a  centre 
shot. 

The  most  feasible  mode  of  hunting  turkeys  is  to  watch  their  roosting 
places  at  night ;  and,  after  the  moon  attains  the  required  position,  they 
may  be  killed  by  dozens  in  the  above  manner.  They  rarely  leave  their 
roosts  on  account  of  the  firing ;  but  remain,  half  stupified  with  affright, 
while  they  are  picked  off  one  after  another  by  the  practised  hunter. 

Sept.  %5th.  Again  resuming  our  journey,  we  reached  Taos  on  the  1st 
of  October. 

Our  stay  at  this  place  was  prolonged  for  several  days,  during  which 
time  we  took  boarding  with  a  Mexican  lady,  the  widow  of  an  American 
trader. 

The  country  travelled  over  en  route,  from  the  San  Carlos  to  Taos  is 
very  rough  and  mountainous,  but  variegated  by  many  fertile  valleys 
skirting  the  numerous  tributaries  of  the  Arkansas  and  del  Norte. 

The  trail  crosses  several  of  the  latter  streams,  for  the  most  part  bear- 
ing an  easterly  course  ;  among  which  are  the  Cornua  Virda,  Huaquetore, 
Timpa,  Apache,  and  Pischepa. 

These  creeks  frequently  pass  through  deep  cailons  of  sandstone  and 
limestone  for  a  distance  of  several  miles  together, — disclosing  upon  all 
sides  a  wild  and  romantic  scenery.  The  great  fault  with  the  valleys  is 
a  lack  of  timber ;  the  hills,  however,  are  generally  supplied  with  pine, 
pinion,  and  cedar,  which,  in  a  measure,  atones  for  the  above  deficiency. 

On  leaving  the  Pischepa,  a  reach  of  little  more  than  one  Jornada  (day's 
travel)  leads  over  the  mountain  range,  separating  the  waters  of  the  Ar- 
kansas and  del  Norte,  at  a  point  bearing  a  short  distance  to  the  left  of 
two  famous  landmarks,  called  the  Spanish  Peaks. 

Here  the  traveller  is  at  once  ushered  into  the  valley  of  Taos  ;  and, 
continuing  on,  in  a  brief  interval  finds  himself  surrounded  by  a  clan  of 
half-naked  Mexicans. 

Taos  proper  embraces  several  fertile  lateral  valleys  bordering  upon 
the  del  Norte,  and  three  small  affluents  from  the  east  and  is  supposed 
to  contain  a  population  of  some  ten  thousand,  includii/g  Indians,  Moors, 
Half-breeds,  Mulattoes,  and  Spaniards.     It  is  divided  into  several  pre- 


174  MEXICAN  HOUSES. 

cints,  or  neighborhoods,  within  short  distances  of  each  other,  among 
which  Arroyo  Hondo  is  the  principal. 

This  section  of  country  is  very  romantic,  and  affords  many  scenes  to 
excite  the  admiration  of  beholders.  It  is  shut  in  by  lofty  mountains, 
upon  three  sides,  that  tower  to  an  altitude  of  several  thousand  feet,  now 
presenting  their  pine-clad  summits  among  the  clouds,  now  with  denu- 
ded crests  defying  the  tempest ;  and  then  peering  skyward  to  hold  con- 
verse with  the  scathing  blasts  of  unending  winter. 

The  mountains  are  rich  in  minerals  of  various  kinds.  Gold  is  found  in 
considerable  quantities  in  their  vicinity,  and  would  doubtless  yield  a  large 
profit  to  diggers,  were  they  possessed  of  the  requisite  enterprise  and 
capital.  At  present  these  valuable  mines  are  almost  entirely  neglected, 
— the  common  people  being  too  ignorant  and  poor  to  work  them,  and 
the  rich  too  indolent  and  fond  of  ease. 

The  Mexicans  possess  large  ranchos  of  sheep,  horses,  mules,  and  cat- 
tle among  the  mountains,  which  are  kept  there  the  entire  year,  by  a 
degraded  set  of  beings,  following  no  business  but  that  of  herdsmen, 
or  rancher os. 

This  class  of  people  have  no  loftier  aspirations  than  to  throw  the 
lasso  with  dexterity,   and  break  wild  mules  and  horses. 

They  have  scarcely  an  idea  of  any  other  place  than  the  little  circle  in 
which  they  move,  nor  dream  of  a  more  happy  state  of  existence  than  their 
own.  Half-naked  and  scantily  fed,  they  are  contented  with  the  miserable 
pittance  doled  out  to  them  by  the  proud  lordlings  they  serve,  while  their 
wild  songs  merrily  echo  through  the  hills  as  they  pursue  their  ceaseless 
vocations  till  death  drops  his  dark  curtain  o'er  the  scene. 

There  are  no  people  on  the  continent  of  America,  whether  civilized  or 
uncivilized,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  more  miserable  in  condition  or  des- 
picable in  morals  than  the  mongrel  race  inhabiting  New  Mexico.  In  say- 
ing this,  I  deal  in  generalities ;  but  were  I  to  particularize  the  observation 
would  hold  good  in  a  large  majority  of  cases. 

Next  to  the  squalid  appearance  of  its  inhabitants,  the  first  thing  that 
arrests  the  attention  of  the  traveller  on  entering  an  Mexican  settlement,  is 
the  uninviting  mud  walls  that  form  the  rude  hovels  which  constitute  its 
dwellings. 

These  are  one  story  high  and  built j^f  adobies,  with  small  windows,  (like 
the  port-holes  of  a  fortification,)  generally  without  glass.  The  entrance  is 
by  an  opening  in  the  side,  very  low,  and  frequently  unprotected  by  a  door. 
The  roof  is  a  terrace  of  sod,  reposing  upon  a  layer  of  small  logs,  affording 
but  poor  protection  from  the  weather. 

The  interior  presents  an  aspect  quite  as  forbidding ; — the  floors  are  sim- 
ply the  naked  ground, — chairs  and  tables  are  articles  rarely  met  with.  In 
case  of  an  extra  room,  it  is  partitioned  off  by  a  thin  wall  of  mud,  commu- 
nicating with  its  neighbor  through  a  small  window-shaped  aperture,  and 
serves  the  double  purpose  of  a  chamber  and  store-house. 

A  few  rags,  tattered  blankets,  or  old  robes,  furnish  beds  for  its  inmates, 
who,  at  nightfall,  stow  themselves  away  promiscuously  upon  the  ground 
or  in  narrow  bins,  and  snooze  their  rounds  despite  the  swarms  of  noxious 
vermin  that  infest  them,  (companions  from  which  they  are  seldom  free, 


ABJECT  CONDITION  OF  MEXICANS.  175 

whether  sleeping  or  waking, — and  afford  them,  perhaps,  in  greater  number 
and  variety  of  species  than  any  other  known  people.) 

But,  before  the  picture  is  complete,  we  must  be  indulged  in  a  brief  sketch 
of  their  kitchen  economy. 

Knives,  forks,  spoons,  and  plates,  seldom  grace  the  board  of  a  Mexican 
in  common  circumstances.  A  single  pot  of  earth,  a  knife,  two  or  three 
trenchers,  and  as  many  water-gourds,  constitute  almost  the  entire  kitchen 
furniture  of  the  lower  classes ; — a  kind  of  gruel  (tolle)  made  by  stirring  a 
few  handfuls  of  flour  into  boiling  water  or  milk,  is  their  principal  subsis- 
tence. 

Meat  finds  no  place  upon  their  larder, — it  being  an  article  too  costly  for 
ordinary  food,  as  the  sheep  and  cattle  of  the  country  are  owned  by  the 
wealthy,  and  by  their  exorbitant  demands  placed  beyond  the  means  of  the 
commoner.  Wood  too,  being  two  rials  (25  cents)  per  mule-load,  is  seldom 
used  in  the  large  towns  for  other  than  culinary  purposes. 

During  the  winter  months,  these  filthy  wretches  are  seen,  day  after  day, 
basking  at  the  sunny  side  of  their  huts,  and  bestowing  upon  each  other 
certain  friendly  offices  connected  with  the  head,  wherein  the  swarming 
populace  of  the  pericranium  are  had  in  alternate  requisition. 

The  entire  business  of  the  country  is  in  the  hands  of  the  rich,  upon 
whom  the  laboring  classes  are  mainly  dependant  for  support ;  and,  as  a  natu- 
ral consequence,  the  rich  know  no  end  to  their  treasures,  nor  the  poor  to 
their  poverty. 

The  common  laborer  obtains  only  from  four  to  six  dollars  per  month,  out 
of  which  he  must  feed  and  clothe  himself.  In  case  be  runs  in  debt  beyond 
his  means,  he  is  necessitated  by  law  to  serve  for  the  required  amount,  at 
two  dollars  per  month ; — thus,  once  in  debt,  it  is  almost  impossible  ever  to 
extricate  himself. 

But  a  thing  adding  still  further  to  his  load  of  misfortunes  is  the  hign 
price  set  upon  the  necessaries  and  comforts  of  life.  This  ranges  as  fol- 
lows :  coffee,  from  37£  to  50  cts.  per  lb. ;  sugar,  from  18  to  25  cts.  per 
do.;  calico,  from  25  cts.  to  $1  per  yd. ;  domestic, 25  to  50  cts. ;  broadcloths, 
from  $10  to  $20,  and  every  thing  else  in  proportion. 

Under  such  circumstances,  it  is  scarcely  marvellous  that  we  find  the 
Mexican  in  his  present  low  state  of  degradation. 

Having  faintly  depicted  the  real  condition  of  a  large  majority  of  the  de- 
generate inhabitants  of  New  Mexico,  it  will  be  expected  of  me  to  say  some- 
thing of  their  intelligence  and  morality ;  and  here  a  still  more  revolting 
task  awaits  my  effort. 

Intelligence  is  confined  almost  exclusively  to  the  higher  classes,  and  the 
poor  "  palavro"  comes  in  for  a  very  diminutive  share. 

Education  is  entirely  controlled  by  the  priests,  wno  make  use  of  their 
utmost  endeavors  to  entangle  the  minds  of  their  pupils  in  the  meshes  of 
superstition  and  bigotry.  The  result  of  this  may  be  plainly  stated  in  a  few 
words : 

Superstition  and  bigotry  are  universal. — all,  both  old  and  young,  being 
tied  down  to  the  disgusting  formalities  of  a  religion  that  manifests  itself  in 
little  else  than  senseless  parade  and  unmeaning  ceremony, — while  a  large 
majority  can  neither  read  nor  write. 


176  WHY  SO  DEGRADED. 

These  conservators  of  intelligence  and  morals  are  often  as  sadly  deficient 
in  either  as  those  they  assume  to  teach.  Gambling,  swearing,  drinking, 
Sabbath-breaking,  and  sundry  other  vices,  are  the  too  frequent  concomitants 
of  their  practice  ; — under  such  instructors,  who  can  fail  to  foresee  the 
attendant  train  of  evils  ?  The  abject  condition  of  the  people  favors  the  im- 
press of  unsound  instruction  and  deteriorating  example,  reducing  public 
morals  to  a  very  low  ebb. 

Property  and  life  are  alike  unsafe,  and  a  large  proportion  of  the  whole  com- 
munity are  little  other  than  thieves  and  robbers.  Profanity  is  their  common 
language.  In  their  honesty,  integrity,  and  good  faith,  as  a  general  thing, 
no  reliance  should  be  placed.  They  are  at  all  times  ready  to  betray  their 
trust  whenever  a  sufficient  inducement  is  presented. 

With  the  present  of  a  few  dollars,  witnesses  may  be  readily  obtained  to 
swear  to  anything ;  and  a  like  bonus  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  Alcaldi  will 
generally  secure  the  required  judgment,  however  much  at  variance  with  the 
true  merits  of  the  cause. 

Thus,  justice  becomes  a  mere  mockery,  and  crime  stalks  forth  at  noon- 
day, unawed  by  fear  of  punishment,  and  unrebuked  by  public  opinion  and 
practice. 

But  fear,  in  most  cases,  exercises  a  far  more  controlling  influence  over 
them  than  either  gratitude  or  favor.  They  may  be  ranked  with  the  few 
exceptions  in  the  family  of  man  who  cannot  endure  good  treatment.  To 
manage  them  successfully,  they  must  needs  be  held  in  continual  restraint, 
and  kept  in  their  place  by  force,  if  necessary, — else  they  will  become 
haughty  and  insolent. 

As  servants,  they  are  excellent,  when  properly  trained,  but  are  worse  than 
useless  if  left  to  themselves. 

In  regard  to  the  Mexican  women,  it  would  be  unfair  to.include  them  in 
the  preceding  summary. 

The  ladies  present  a  striking  contrast  to  their  countryman  in  general 
character,  other  than  morals.  They  are  kind  and  affectionate  in  their  dis- 
position, mild  and  affable  in  their  deportment,  and  ever  ready  to  administer 
to  the  necessities  of  others.  But,  on  the  score  of  virtue  and  common 
chastity,  they  are  sadly  deficient ;  while  ignorance  and  superstition  are 
equally  predominant. 

One  of  the  prime  causes  in  producing  this  deplorable  state  of  things  may 
be  attributed,  to  that  government  policy  which  confines  the  circulating  me- 
dium of  the  country  within  too  narrow  limits,  and  thus  throws  the  entire 
business  of  the  country  into  the  hands  of  the  capitalist. 

A  policy  like  this  must  ever  give  to  the  rich  the  moneyed  power,  while  it 
drains  from  the  pockets  of  the  poor  man  and  places  him  at  the  mercy  of 
haughty  lordlings,  who,  taking  advantage  of  his  necessity,  grant  him  but 
the  scanty  pittance  for  his  services  they  in  tender  compassion  see  fit  to 
bestow. 

The  higher  classes  have  thus  attained  the  supreme  control,  and  the  com- 
moners must  continue  to  cringe  and  bow  to  their  will.  In  this  manner  the 
latter  have,  by  degrees,  lost  all  ambition  and  self-respect, — and,  in  degrada- 
tion, are  only  equalled  by  their  effeminacy. 


THE  PUEBLO  INDIANS.  177 

Possessed  of  little  moral  restraint,  and  interested  in  nothing  but  the  de- 
mands of  present  want,  they  abandon  themselves  to  vice,  and  prey  upon 
one  another  and  those  around  them. 

Acting  upon  the  principle,  that  "  necessity  knows  no  law,"  they  know  no 
law  for  necessity,  and  help  themselves  without  compunction  to  whatever 
chance  throws  in  their  way. 

To  this  we  may  also  look  for  a  reason  why  the  entire  country  is  so  in- 
fested with  banded  robbers,  that  scour  it  continually  in  quest  of  plunder. 
Mankind  are  naturally  vicious  ;  and,  when  necessity  drives  them  to  wrong 
for  the  procurement  of  a  bare  subsistence,  they  are  not  slow  to  become 
adepts  in  the  practice  of  evil. 

A  few  miles  to  the  southeast  of  Taos,  is  a  large  village  of  Pueblos,  or 
civilized  Indians.  These  are  far  superior  to  their  neighbors  in  circum- 
stances, morals,  civil  regulations,  character,  and  all  the  other  distinguishing 
traits  of  civilization. 

This  race  are  of  the  genuine  Mexican  stock,  and  retain  many  of  their 
ancient  customs,  though  nominally  Catholic  in  their  religion. 

Cherishing  a  deep-rooted  animosity  towards  their  conquerors-,  they  only 
await  a  favorable  opportunity  to  re-assert  their  liberty. 

They  live  in  houses  built  of  stone  and  earth,  and  cultivate  the  ground  for 
a  subsistence, — own  large  herds  of  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep, — while  their 
women  spin  and  weave,  with  no  small  pretentions  to  skill. 

Among  their  peculiarities  is  the  belief,  still  entertained  by  many  of  them, 
that  Montezuma,  their  former  emperor,  will  yet  return  from  the  Spirit  Land, 
and,  placing  himself  at  the  head  of  his  people,  enable  them  to  overcome 
the  despoilers  of  his  ancient  dominions. 

In  this  strange  faith  a  fire  was  kept  burning  without  intermission,  from 
the  death  of  Montezuma  till  within  ten  years  past,  (a  period  of  nearly  three 
centuries,)  as  a  beacon-light  to  mark  the  place  for  his  appearing. 

This  fire  was  sustained  by  an  ancient  order  of  priests  ministering  at  a 
temple  of  unknown  age,  the  ruins  of  which,  it  is  said,  are  yet  to  be  seen 
two  miles  back  from  St.  Miguel,  in  a  very  good  state  of  preservation.  By 
verbal  descriptions  received  from  those  who  have  visited  them,  I  am  led  to 
infer  that  they  afford  many  curious  and  interesting  evidences  of  Mexican 
grandeur  and  tend  to  shed  much  light  upon  their  former  history  and  reli- 
gion. 

The  sculpture  is  said  to  represent  men  and  animals  of  .different  kinds, 
in  many  strange  varieties  of  shape  and  posture;  among  them  are  beasts, 
birds,  and  reptiles,  some  of  which  are  of  unknown  species. 

The  workmanship  is  rather  rude  and  without  much  regard  to  uniformity 
or  proportion  of  parts,  yet  possessing  a  wild  beauty  and  harmony  peculiar 
to  itself  alone,  that  at  once  strikes  the  beholder  with  feelings  ot  pleasing 
wonder. 

I  had  cherished  the  intention  of  visiting  personally  these  strange  relics 
of  the  past,  but  was  induced  to  defer  it  for  a  more  convenient  oppoi  tunity 
than  the  present ;  and,  finally,  from  my  subsequent  connection  with  the 
Texans,  I  abandoned  it  altogether. 

The  Pueblos  number  a  population  of  several  thousand,  and  are  scattered 
over  a  considerable  extent  of  territory.    They  bestow  much  attention  to  the 


178  UTAH  INDIANS. 

inculcation  of  good  morals  in  the  minds  of  their  children  ;  and,  in  portraying 
the  pernicious  effects  of  evil-doing,  frequently  admonish  them  in  a  quaint 
and  expressive  manner, — "  If  you  do  thus  and  so,  you  will  become  as  bad 
as  a  Spaniard!" — This  seems  to  constitute,  in  their  opinion,  the  grand  cli- 
max of  everything  vile  and  degrading. 

They  are  represented  as  humane  and  brave,  and  strictly  honest  and  up- 
right in  their  dealings.  Their  women  too  are  chaste  and  virtuous,  and  in 
this  respect  present  a  very  favorable  contrast  to  their  fairer  and  more  beau- 
tiful sisters  of  Spanish  extraction. 

A  small  party  from  a  trading  establishment  on  the  waters  of  Green  river, 
who  had  visited  Taos  for  the  procurement  of  a  fresh  supply  of  goods,  were 
about  to  return,  and  I  availed  myself  of  the  occasion  to  make  one  of  their 
number. 

On  the  7th  of  October  we  were  under  way.  Our  party  consisted  of  three 
Frenchmen  and  five  Spaniards,  under  the  direction  of  a  man  named  Roubi- 
deau,  formerly  from  St.  Louis,  Mo.  Some  eight  pack-mules,  laden  at  the 
rate  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  each,  conveyed  a  quantity  of  goods  ; — 
these  headed  by  a  guide  followed  in  Indian  file,  and  the  remainder  of  the 
company  mounted  on  horseback  brought  up  the  rear. 

Crossing  the  del  Norte,  we  soon  after  struck  into  a  large  trail  bearing 
a  westerly  course  ;  following  which,  on  the  1 3th  inst.  we  crossed  the  main 
ridge  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  by  a  feasible  pass  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  Sierra  de  Anahuac  range,  and  found  ourselves  upon  the  waters  of 
the  Pacific. 

Six  days  subsequent,  we  reached  Roubideau's  Fort,  at  the  forks  of  the 
Uintah,  having  passed  several  large  streams  in  our  course,  as  well  as  the 
two  principal  branches  which  unite  to  form  the  Colorado.  This  being  the 
point  of  destination,  our  journey  here  came  to  a  temporary  close. 

The  intermediate  country,  from  Taos  to  the  Uintah,  is  generally  very 
rough  and  diversified  with  rich  valleys,  beautiful  plateaux,  (lierras  templa- 
das.)  arid  prairies,  sterile  plains,  (llanos,)  and  denuded  mountains. 

We  usually  found  a  sufficiency  of  timber  upon  the  streams,  as  well  as 
among  the  hills,  where  frequent  groves  of  pinion,  cedar,  and  pine  lent  an 
agreeable  diversity  to  the  scene.  Game  appeared  in  great  abundance 
nearly  the  whole  route, — especially  antelope  and  deer. 

The  prevailing  rock  consisted  of  several  specimens  of  sandstone,  pudding- 
stone,  and  granite,  with  limestone,  (fossiliferous,  bituminous  and  argilla- 
ceous,) and  basalt. 

This  territory  is  owned  by  the  Utahs  and  Navijo  Indians. 

The  former  of  these  tribes  includes  four  or  five  divisions,  and  inhabits  the 
country  laying  between  the  Rio  del  Norte,  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  the 
vast  desert  to  the  southward  of  it.  These  different  fractions  are  known  as 
the  Taos,  Pa-utah,  Digger,  and  Lake  Utahs,  numbering  in  all  a  popula- 
tion of  fifteen  thousand  or  more,  and  exhibiting  many  peculiarities  of 
character  and  habits  distinct  from  each  other. 

The  Taos  Utahs  are  a  brave  and  warlike  people,  located  upon  the  del 
Norte  a  short  distance  to  the  northwest  of  Taos.  These  subsist  principally 
by  hunting,  but  raise  large  numbers  of  horses.     They  are  generally  treach- 


THE  DIGGERS.  179 

erous  and  ill-disposed,  making  alike  troublesome  neighbors  to  the  Spaniards 
and  dangerous  opponents  to  the  whites,  whenever  an  opportunity  is  pre- 
sented. 

The  Pa-utahs  and  Lake  Utahs  occupy  the  territory  lying  south  of  the 
Snakes,  and  upon  the  waters  of  the  Colorado  of  the  west,  and  south 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 

These  Indians  are  less  warlike  in  their  nature,  and  more  friendly  in  their 
disposition,  than  the  Taos  Utahs.  The  persons  and  property  of  whites,  vis- 
iting them  for  trade  or  other  purposes,  are  seldom  molested  ;  and  all  having 
dealings  with  them,  so  far  as  my  information  extends,  unite  to  give  them  a 
a  good  character. 

They  rarely  go  to  war,  and  seem  content  to  enjoy  the  blessings  of  peace, 
and  follow  the  chase  within  the  limits  of  their  own  hunting  grounds. 

The  Diggers,  or  rather  a  small  portion  of  them,  are  a  division  of  the 
Utah  nation,  inhabiting  a  considerable  extent  of  the  barren  country  directly 
southwest  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  They  are  represented  as  the  most  de- 
plorably situated,  perhaps,  of  the  whole  family  of  man,  in  all  that  pertains 
to  the  means  of  subsistence  and  the  ordinary  comforts  of  life. 

The  largest  (and.  in  fact,  almost  the  only)  game  found  within  their  terri- 
tory, is  a  very  small  species  of  rabbit,  whose  skins  sewed  together  consti- 
tute their  entire  clothing.  The  soil  is  too  barren  for  cultivation,  sparsely 
timbered,  and  but  illy  supplied  with  water.  The  consequence  of  these  ac- 
cumulated disadvantages  is,  that  its  unfortunate  inhabitants  are  left  to 
gather  a  miserable  substitute  for  food  from  insects,  roots,  and  the  seeds  of 
grass  and  herbs. 

In  the  summer  months  they  lay  in  large  supplies  against  the  approach  of 
winter, — ants  furnishing  an  important  item  in  the  strange  collection. 

These  insects  abound  in  great  numbers,  and  are  caught  by  spreading  a 
dampened  skin,  or  fresh-peeled  bark,  over  their  hills,  which  immediately  at- 
tracts the  inquisitive  denizens  to  its  surface  ;  when  filled,  the  lure  is  care- 
fully removed  and  its  adherents  shaken  into  a  tight  sack,  where  they  are 
confined  till  dead, — they  are  then  thoroughly  sun-dried,  and  laid  away  for 
use. 

In  this  manner  they  are  cured  by  the  bushel.  The  common  way  of  eat- 
ing them  is  in  an  uncooked  state.  These  degraded  beings  live  in  holes 
dug  in  the  sand  near  some  watercourse,  or  in  rudely  constructed  lodges  of 
absinthe,  where  they  remain  in  a  semi-dormant,  inactive  state  the  entire 
winfer, — leaving  their  lowly  retreats  only,  now  and  then,  at  the  urgent  calls 
of  nature,  or  to  warm  their  burrows  by  burning  some  of  the  few  scanty 
combustibles  which  chance  may  afford  around  them. 

In  the  spring  they  creep  from  their  holes,  not  like  bear — fattened  from  a 
long  repose — but  poor  and  emaciated,  with  barely  flesh  enough  to  hide  their 
bones,  and  so  enervated,  from  hard  fare  and  frequent  abstinence,  that  they 
can  scarcely  move. 

So  habituated  are  they  to  this  mode  of  life  from  constant  inurement,  they 
appear  to  have  no  conception  of  a  better  one. 

Their  ideas  and  aspirations  are  as  simple  as  their  fare.  Give  them  an 
occasional  rabbit,  with  an  abundance  of  ants,  seeds,  and  roots,  and  they  are 
content  to  abide  in  their  desert  home  and  burrow  like  the  diminutive  animal 
they  hunt.  -  „ 

lo 


180  SKETCH  OF  THE  NA.VIJOS. 

They  entertain  great  dread  of  the  whites,  whose  power  to  do  them  harm 
they  have  learned  on  several  occasions  by  bitter  experience.  These  pain- 
ful lessons  have  generally  been  inculcated  as  follows  :  impelled  by  hunger, 
these  miserable  creatures  have  sometimes  attempted  to  kill  the  animals  of 
trapping  parties ;  and  the  trappers,  in  order  to  prevent  a  repetition  of  such 
occurrences,  have  been  accustomed  to  shoot  down  their  rude  assailants 
without  mercy. 

Since  the  practice  of  this  summary  mode  of  chastisement  has  ob- 
tained, those  able  to  run  will  flee  with  the  utmost  consternation  on  the 
approach  of  a  party  of  whites, — leaving  the  feeble  and  infirm  in  the  rear, 
who  employ  their  most  piteous  supplications  and  moving  entreaties  for 
mercy. 

Thes  elndians  possess  a  capacity  for  improvement,  whenever  circumstan- 
ces favor  them.  I  have  seen  several,  both  of  men  and  women,  taken  from 
among  them  while  young,  who,  under  proper  instruction,  had  made  rapid 
progress,  and  even  disclosed  a  superiority  of  intellect,  compared  with  like 
examples  from  other  nations, — a  fact  contributing  much  to  prove  that  man- 
kind need  only  to  be  placed  in  like  conditions  by  birth  and  education  to 
stand  upon  the  same  common  level. 

Most  of  them  are  represented  as  inoffensive  in  their  habits  and  charac- 
ter,— never  going  to  war,  and  rarely  molesting  any  one  that  passes  through 
their  country. 

Their  arms  are  clubs,  with  small  bows  and  arrows  made  of  reeds — 
affording  but  a  poor  show  of  resistance  to  rifles,  and  a  dozen  moun- 
taineers are  rendered  equal  to  a  full  army  of  such  solders. 

The  Navijos  occupy  the  country  between  the  del  Norte  and  the 
Sierra  Anahuac,  situated  upon  the  Rio  Chama  and  Puerco, — from 
thence  extending  along  the  Sierra  de  los  Mimbros,  into  the  province 
of  Sonora. 

They  are  a  division  of  the  ancient  Mexicans  that  have  never  yet  fully 
succumbed  to  Spanish  domination,  and  still  maintain  against  the  con- 
querors of  their  country  an  obstinate  and  uncompromising  warfare. 

Like  their  ancestors,  they  possess  a  civilization  of  their  own.  Most 
of  them  live  in  houses  built  of  stone,  and  cultivate  the  ground, — raising 
vegetables  and  grain  for  a  subsistence.  They  also  grow  large  quanti- 
ties of  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep — make  butter  and  cheese,  and  spin  and 
weave. 

The  blankets  manufactured  by  these  Indians  are  superior  in  beauty 
of  color,  texture,  and  durability,  to  the  fabrics  of  their  Spanish  neigh- 
bors. I  have  frequently  seen  them  so  closely  woven  as  to  be  imper- 
vious to  water,  and  even  serve  for  its  transportation. 

The  internal  regulations  of  this  tribe  are  represented,  by  those  more 
intimately  acquainted  with  them,  as  in  strict  accordance  with  the  wel- 
fare of  the  whole  community.  Lewdness  is  punished  by  a  public  expo- 
sure of  the  culprit ;  dishonesty  is  held  in  check  by  suitable  regulations  ; 
industry  is  encouraged  by  general  consent,  and  hospitality  by  common 
practice. 

In  their  warfare  with  the  Spaniards,  they  frequently  exhibit  a 
etrange  mixture  of  humanity  and  ludicrous  barbarity. 


WHY  DISTRUSTFUL  OF  THE  WHITES.  181 

They  never  kill  women  or  children  when  in  their  power,  but  retain 
them  as  prisoners.     The  men,  however,  are  invariably  dispatched. 

But  in  the  latter,  a  comedy  not  unfrequently  precedes  the  tragedy 
which  closes  the  scene.  Taking  their  cue  from  the  passionate  fondness 
of  the  Spaniards  for  dancing,  at  times,  when  any  one  of  these  unfortunate 
wretches  falls  into  their  power,  they  form  a  ring  around  him,  and  provi- 
ded with  switches,  compel  him  to  dance  until  from  exhaustion  he  can 
do  so  no  longer,  after  which  he  is  unfeelingly  butchered.  His  cruel 
tormenters  continue  singing,  as  they  force  him  to  dance  his  own  death- 
dirge,  and  laugh  at  his  faltering  steps. 

As  warriors  they  are  brave  and  daring,  and  make  frequent  and  bold  ex- 
cursions into  the  Spanish  settlements,  driving  off  vast  herds  of  cattle, 
horses,  and  sheep,  and  spreading  terror  and  dismay  on  every  side.  As 
diplomatists,  in  imitation  of  their  neighbors,  they  make  and  break  trea- 
ties whenever  interest  or  inclination  prompts  them. 

The  Navijo  country  is  shut  in  by  high  mountains,  inaccessible  from 
without,  except  by  limited  passes,  through  narrow  defiles  well  situated 
for  defence  on  the  approach  of  an  invading  foe. 

Availing  themselves  of  these  natural  advantages,  they  have  continued 
to  maintain  their  ground  against  fearful  odds,  nor  have  they  ever  suffered 
the  Spaniards  to  set  foot  within  their  territory  as  permanent  conquerors. 

The  valleys  of  the  Chama  and  its  tributaries  are  said  to  be  unrivalled 
in  beauty,  and  possessed  of  a  delightful  climate,  as  well  as  an  exuberant 
fertility  of  soil.  In  these  valleys  winter  is  comparatively  unknown  and  ve- 
getation attains  an  extraordinary  size.  The  mountains  abound  with  game, 
and  are  rich  in  all  kinds  of  minerals.  Some  of  the  most  valuable  gold 
mines  in  Mexico  are  supposed  to  be  held  by  the  Navijos.  I  have  convers- 
ed with  several  Americans  who  have  travelled  to  considerable  extent  in 
the  territory  of  these  Indians,  and  all  unite  to  speak  of  it  in  most  flatter- 
ing terms. 

The  Catholics  maintain  numerous  missions  among  them,  and  have 
succeeded  in  propagating  their  peculiar  religious  notions  to  some  extent, 
notwithstanding  their  continued  hostilities  with  the  Spaniards. 

The  Navijos  are  generally  friendly  to  the  Americans  visiting  them  ; 
but  were  formerly  much  more  so  than  at  present.  This  partial  estrange- 
ment may  be  attributed  to  the  depredations  of  a  party  of  Americans, 
under  the  lead  of  one  Kirker,  who  were  employed  by  the  governments  of 
Santa  Fe  and  Chihuahua,  to  oppose  their  incursions.  This  was  done  with 
great  success — the  mercenaries  despoiling  their  property,  butchering 
their  warriors,  and  bearing  off  men,  women,  and  children,  as  captives,  to 
be  sold  into  slavery. 


182 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Uintah  trade. — Snake  Indians;  their  country  and  character. — Description  of  Upper 
California.— The  Eastern  Section. — Great  Salt  Lake  and  circumjacent  country. — 
Desert. — Digger  country,  and  regions  south. — Fertility  of  soil. — Prevailing  rock  and 
minerals. — Abundance  of  wild  fruit,  grain,  and  game. — Valley  of  the  Colorado. — 
Magnificent  scenery. — Valleys  of  the  Uintah  and  other  rivers. — Vicinity  of  the 
Gila. — Face  of  the  country,  soil  &c. — Sweet  spots. — Mildness  of  climate,  and  its 
healthiness. — The  natives. — Sparsity  of  inhabitants. — No  government. — All  about 
the  Colorado  and  Gila  rivers. — Abundance  of  fish. — Trade  in  pearl  oyster-shells. — 
Practicable  routes  from  the  United  States. 

In  preceding  remarks  relative  to  regions  coming  under  present  observa- 
tion, I  have  confined  myself  to  generalities,  for  the  reason,  that  less  interest 
is  felt  by  the  American  public,  in  a  minute  description  of  the  rivers,  moun- 
tains, valleys,  etc.,  so  far  within  the  limits  of  Mexico,  than  in  one  connected 
with  U.  S.  Territories  ;  consequently  the  reader  must  rest  contented  with 
greater  conciseness  in  subsequent  pages,  until  he  is  again  introduced  to  the 
interesting  localities  of  his  own  country. 

Roubideau's  Fort  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  oCthe  Uintah,  in  lat.  40° 
27'  45"  north,  long.  109°  56'  42"  West.  The  trade  of  this  post  is  con- 
ducted principally  with  the  trapping  parties  frequenting  the  Big  Bear, 
Green,  Grand,  and  the  Colorado  rivers,  with  their  numerous  tributaries,  in 
search  of  fur-bearing  game. 

A  small  business  is  also  carried  on  with  the  Snake  and  Utah  Indians, 
living  in  the  neighborhood  of  this  establishment.  The  common  articles  of 
dealing  are  horses,  with  beaver,  otter,  deer,  sheep,  and  elk  skins,  in  barter 
for  ammunition,  fire-arms,  knives,  tobacco,  beads,  awls,  &c. 

The  Utahs  and  Snakes  afford  some  of  the  largest  and  best  finished  sheep 
and  deer  skins  I  ever  beheld, — a  single  skin  sometimes  being  amply  suffi- 
cient for  common  sized  pantaloons.  These  skins  are  dressed  so  neatly 
as  frequently  to  attain  a  snowy  whiteness,  and  possess  the  softness  of 
velvet. 

They  may  be  purchased  for  the  trifling  consideration  of  eight  or  ten  charges 
of  ammunition  each,  or  two  or  three  awls,  or  any  other  thing  of  propor- 
tional value.  Skins  are  very  abundant  in  these  parts,  as  the  natives,  owing 
to  the  scarcity  of  buffalo,  subsist  entirely  upon  small  game,  which  is  found 
in  immense  quantities.  This  trade  is  quite  profitable.  The  articles  pro- 
cured so  cheaply,  when  taken  to  Santa  Fe  and  the  neighboring  towns,  find 
a  ready  cash  market  at  prices  ranging  from  one  to  two  dollars  each. 

The  Snakes,  or  Shoshones,  live  in  the  eastern  part  of  Oregon  and  in 
Upper  California,  upon  the  waters  of  the  Great  Snake  and  Bear  rivers,  and 
the  two  streams  which  unite  to  form  the  Colorado. 


VIEW  OF  UPPER  CALIFORNIA.  183 

They  are  friendly  to  the  whites,  and  less  disposed  to  appropriate  to  their 
own  use  everything  they  can  lay  hands  on,  than  some  other  tribes.  The> 
seldom  go  to  war,  though  by  no  means  deficient  in  bravery, — frequently  re- 
sisting with  signal  success  the  hostile  encroachments  of  the  Sioux  and 
Chyennes.  Rich  in  horses  and  game,  they  likewise  include  within  their 
territory  many  interesting  and  beautiful  localities,  as  well  as  some  extraor- 
dinary natural  curiosities. 

One  division  of  this  tribe  is  identified  with  the  Diggers  in  habits  and 
mode  of  living, — the  same  causes  operating  in  each  case  to  produce  the 
same  results.  Another  division  is  identified  with  the  Crows,  and  yet  a 
third  one  with  the  Utahs, — numbering  in  all  not  far  from  twelve  thousand. 

Being  less  migratory  in  their  habits,  and  more  tractable  in  their  disposition 
than  those  of  their  eastern  brethren  demontes,  they  are  far  more  susceptible 
of  civilization  and  improvement ;  though,  as  yet,  nothing  has  been  done  for 
their  benefit.  The  missionary  might  here  find  an  encouraging  field  for  his 
philanthropic  exertions. 

With  the  passage  of  the  mountain  chain,  noticed  in  the  preceding  chap- 
ter, the  reader  is  inducted  to  the  northeastern  extremity  of  California. 
My  intention  of  visiting  the  interior  of  this  interesting  province  of  the 
Mexican  Republic  was  frustrated  through  the  lack  of  a  convenient  oppor- 
tunity for  its  prosecution ;  but,  as  the  public  mind,  during  the  past  few 
years,  has  been  so  much  occupied  with  subjects  connected  with  this  coun- 
try, I  am  unwilling  to  pass  on  without  presenting  a  brief  description  of 
it,  obtained  from  sources  upon  which  full  reliance  may  be  placed. 

The  following  sketch,  coupled  with  my  own  observations,  is  carefully 
arranged  from  information  derived  from  indviduals  encountered  during  my 
stay  in  this  country,  some  of  whom  had  travelled  over  most  of  it,  and 
others  had  resided  for  years  within  its  confines. 

On  referring  to  the  map,  a  large  extent  of  country  will  be  noticed, 
bounded  upon  the  north  by  Oregon,  east  by  the  Rocky  Mountains,  south 
by  the  Lower  Province  and  Gulf  of  California,  together  with  the  Rio  Gila 
which  separates  it  from  Sonora,  and  west  by  the  Pacific,  situated  between 
parallels  32°  and  42°  north  latitude,  which  is  now  known  as  Upper  Cali- 
fornia. 

This  embraces  an  extent  of  nearly  450,000  square  miles,  and  is  walled 
in  for  the  most  part  upon  the  north  and  east  by  lofty  mountains,  impassable 
except  at  certain  points ;  while  upon  the  west  and  south  its  vast  stretch  of 
sea-coast,  navigable  rivers,  and  commodious  harbors  open  it  to  the  commer- 
cial intercourse  of  all  nations. 

The  entire  country  is  more  or  less  broken  by  hills  and  mountains,  many 
of  them  towering  to  a  height  of  several  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  whose  summits,  clothed  with  eternal  snow,  overlook  the  valleys  of 
perennial  verdure  that  so  frequently  lie  around  them.  The  most  noted  of 
these  is  the  California,  or  Cascade  range,  which,  by  intersecting  the  prov- 
ince from  north  to  south,  separates  it  into  two  grand  natural  divisions,  pro- 
perly denominated  Eastern  and  Western  California. 

The  above  range,  though  higher  than  the  principal  chain  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  is  passable  at  various  points.     It  is  situated  inland  from  the 

16* 


184  THE  GREAT  SALT  LAKE,  ETC. 

Pacific  at  distances  varying  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  four  hundred 
miles,  tracing  its  way  with  diminished  altitude  adown  the  isthmus  that 
forms  the  Lower  Province. 

Owing  to  its  locality,  a  description  of  the  Eastern  Division  seems  to 
come  naturally  the  first  in  order. 

This  section  is  watered  principally  by  the  Colorado,  Gila,  and  Bear  riv- 
ers, with  their  numerous  tributaries,  and  has  also  several  lakes  in  various 
parts  of  it,  prominent  among  which  is  the  Great  Salt  Lake  near  the  north- 
ern boundary. 

This  large  body  of  water  is  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long  by 
eighty  broad ;  and,  though  the  receptacle  of  several  large  rivers,  has  no 
visible  outlet,  and  hence  is  supposed  by  many  persons  to  hold  subterranean 
connection  with  the  Ocean.  Its  waters  are  so  strongly  impregnated  with 
salt,  incrustations  of  that  mineral  are  frequently  found  upon  its  shores. 

Towards  the  northern  extremity  an  island  makes  its  appearance,  from 
whose  centre  a  solitary  mountain  rises  in  proud  majesty  for  nearly  a  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  circumfluent  waters ;  its  craggy  sides,  naked  and  des- 
olate, with  whitened  surface,  now  inspire  the  beholder  with  feelings  of 
awe,  while  its  bounding  streamlets,  skirted  with  verdant  openings  and  di- 
minutive trees,  strike  the  eye  pleasantly,  as  the  sheen  of  their  waters  falls 
upon  the  vision  and  engenders  commingled  sensations  of  delight  and  ad- 
miration. 

Viewed  from  the  northern  shore,  this  island  seems  not  more  than  twelve 
miles  distant ;  a  deception  caused  by  the  extraordinary  purity  of  the  at- 
mosphere. Several  attempts  to  reach  it,  however,  by  means  of  canoes, 
have  proved  futile,  owing  to  its  great  distance  the  dangerous  state  of  navi- 
gation. 

It  is  thought  by  many  persons  that  still  other  islands  of  larger  dimen- 
sions occupy  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and  not  without  some  show  of  reason  ; 
there  is  ample  room  for  them,  and,  although  this  vast  body  of  water  has 
been  circum-traversed  per  shore,  it  has  never  yet  been  otherwise  explored 
by  man.* 

The  largest  of  the  rivers  that  find  their  discharge  in  this  vast  saline  re- 
servoir is  the  Big  Bear,  a  stream  which  rises  near  the  South  Pass,  and, 
following  its  meanderings,  is  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  or  three  hundred 
miles  in  length.  It  rolls  leisurely  on  with  its  deep  sluggish  volume  of 
waters,  measuring  some  two  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  depos- 
ites  its  willing  tribute  into  the  bosom  of  this  miniature  ocean,  while  four 
or  five  other  fresh  water  affluents  from  the  east  and  south  make  a  like  de- 
bouche  without  increasing  its  size  or  diminishing  its  saltness. 

The  valleys  of  these  streams  possess  a  very  rich  soil  and  are  well  tim- 
bered. The  landscape  adjacent  to  the  lake  is  diversified  with  marshes, 
plains,  highlands,  and  mountains,  affording  every  variety  of  scenery.  The 
soil  is  generally  fertile  and  prolific  in  ail  kinds  of  vegetation  as  well  as 
fruits  indigenous  to  the  country. 

*  Recently,  however,  Capt.  Fremont  reports  his  having  succeeded  in  reaching  the 
island  nearest  to  the  northern  shore,  but  he  was  unfortunately  prevented  a  farther 
exploration.  In  his  account  of  this  he  makes  no  mention  of  trees  or  streams  of  water 
upon  the  mountain.  I  have  described  it  only  as  it  appears  when  viewed  from  the 
main  land. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  EASTERN  SECTION  185 

Timber  also  abounds  in  sufficient  quantity  for  all  necessary  purposes 
Game  too  is  found  in  great  abundance,  particularly  deer  and  elk  ;  and,  ta- 
ken as  a  whole,  the  vicinity  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  holds  out  strong  in- 
ducements to  settlers,  and  is  capable  of  sustaining,  as  it  will  no  doubt  ulti- 
mately possess,  a  dense  population. 

Forty  or  fifty  miles  west  and  south  from  this  the  traveller  is  inducted  to 
the  vast  expanse  of  sand  and  gravel,  lying  between  lat.  35°  and  40°  north, 
which  is  almost  entirely  destitute  of  both  wood  and  water. 

This  reach  is  upwards  of  three  hundred  miles  in  length  and  nearly  two 
hundred  broad.  It  is  impassable  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  on  account  of 
its  extreme  dryness  and  lack  of  suitable  nourishment  for  animals  ;  and  even 
a  trip  from  Santa  Fe  to  Western  California,  by  the  regular,  trail,  is  rarely 
undertaken  except  in  the  fall  and  spring  months,  at  which  time  the  ground 
is  rendered  moist  by  annual  rains  and  the  transient  streams  venture  to 
emerge  from  their  sandy  hiding  places. 

The  Digger  country,  of  which  I  have  taken  occasion  to  speak  in  con- 
nection with  its  unfortunate  inhabitants,  lies  upon  the  eastern  and  southern 
extremities  of  this  desolate  waste,  and  presents  an  aspect  little  less  for- 
bidding. 

As  a  general  thing  the  landscape  is  highly  undulating  and  varied  with 
conical  hills,  some  of  which  are  mere  heaps  of  naked  sand  or  sun-baked 
clay  of  a  whitish  hue ;  others,  vast  piles  of  granitic  rock,  alike  destitute  of 
vegetation  or  timber;  while  yet  others  are  clothed  with  a  scanty  herbage 
and  occasional  clusters  of  stunted  pines  and  cedars. 

Now  and  then  a  diminutive  vega  intervenes  in  favorable  contrast  to  the 
surrounding  desolation,  greeting  the  beholder  with  its  rank  grasses,  mingled 
with  blushing  prairie-flowers.  But  such  beauty-spots  are  by  no  means 
frequent. 

The  watercourses  are  mere  beds  of  sand,  skirted  with  sterile  bottoms  of 
stiff  clay  and  gravel,  and  afford  streams  only  at  their  heads,  while,  for 
nearly  the  entire  year,  both  dew  and  rain  are  unknown.  Vegetation,  con- 
sequently, is  sparse  and  unpromising,  and  the  whole  section  of  necessity 
remains  depopulated  of  game. 

It  is  needless  to  say  such  a  country  can  never  become  inhabited  by  civil- 
ized man. 

Between  the  Colorado  river  and  the  California  mountains,  south  of  the 
cheerless  desert  above  described,  the  prospect  is  far  more  flattering.  The 
hills  are  of  varied  altitude  and  are  usually  clothed  with  grass  and  timber; 
while  comparatively  few  of  them  are  denuded  to  any  great  extent.  The 
landscape  is  highly  picturesque  and  pleasingly  diversified  with  mountains, 
hills,  plains,  and  valleys,  which  afford  every  variety  of  climate  and  soil. 

This  section  is  principally  watered  by  the  Rio  Virgen  and  lateral 
streams  ;  and,  though  little  or  no  rain  falls  in  the  summer  months,  the  co- 
piousness of  nightly  dews  in  some  measure  make  up  for  this  defect. 

The  superfice  of  the  valleys  ranges  from  one  to  three  feet  in  depth,  and 
generally  consists  of  sedimentary  deposites  and  the  debris  of  rocks,  borne 
from  the  neighboring  hills  by  aqueous  attrition,  which,  mingled  with  a 
dark-colored  loam  compounded  of  clay  and  sand,  and  various  organic  and 
vegetable  remains,  unite  to  form  a  soil  of  admirable  fecundity,  rarely  equal- 
led by  that  of  any  other  country. 


186  LANDSCAPE  SCENES. 

The  hills,  however,  are  unfit  for  cultivation  to  any  great  extent,  owing 
to  their  common  sterility  as  well  as  the  abundance  of  rock  in  many  parts  ; 
yet.  they  might  serve  a  good  purpose  for  grazing  lands. 

The  prevailing  rock  is  said  to  be  sandstone,  limestone,  mica  slate,  trap; 
and  basalt ;  the  minerals,  copper,  iron,  coal,  salt,  and  sulphur. 

Game  exists  in  great  abundance,  among  which  are  included  antelope, 
deer,  (black  and  white-tailed,)  elk,  bear,  and  immense  quantities  of  water- 
fowls ;  large  herds  of  wild  horses  and  cattle,  also,  are  not  unfrequently 
met  with. 

Timber  is  usually  a  scarce  article,  which  constitutes  one  grand  fault  in 
the  entire  section  of  Eastern  California.  This  evil,  however,  is  partially  re- 
medied by  a  mild  climate,  and  only  a  comparatively  small  amount  of  wood 
is  required  for  building,  fencing,  and  fuel. 

Fruits  of  all  kinds  indigenous  to  the  country,  particularly  grapes,  are 
found  in  great  profusion,  and  those  native  only  to  the  torrid  and  temperate 
zones  may  also  be  successfully  cultivated. 

Among  the  grasses,  grains,  and  vegetables  growing  spontaneously  in 
some  parts,  are  red-clover  and  oats,  (which  atttain  a  most  luxuriant  bulk,) 
flax  and  onions ;  the  latter  not  unfrequently  equalling  in  size  the  proudest 
products  of  the  far- farmed  gardens  of  Wethersfield. 

We  are  now  naturally  led  back  to  the  Colorado,  and  the  country  lying 
between  it  and  the  Sierra  de  los  Mimbros  range,  on  the  east.  This  division 
embraces  much  choice  land  in  its  valleys,  but  the  high  grounds  and  hills 
present  much  of  the  dryness  and  sterility  incident  to  the  grand  praries. 

The  valley  of  the  Colorado  averages  from  five  to  fifteen  miles  broad,  for 
a  distance  of  nearly  two  hundred  miles  above   its  mouth. 

Further  on,  the  passage  of  the  river  through  high  mountains  and  lierras 
templadas  (table  lands)  presents  an -almost  continuous  gorge  of  vertical 
and  overhanging  rocks,  that,  closing  in  upon  the  subfluent  stream  at  a  va- 
ried height  of  from  fifteen  to  six  hundred  or  even  a  thousand  feet,  afford 
only  an  occasional  diminutive  opening  to  its  waters. 

This  vast  carion  is  said  to  extend  for  five  or  six  hundred  miles,  interrupt- 
ing the  river  with  numerous  cataracts,  cascades  and  rapids,  and  opposing 
to  its  swift  current  the  sharp  fragments  of  severed  rocks  thrown  from  the 
dizzy  eminences,  as  breakers,  by  which  to  lash  the  gurgling  waters  and 
depict  the  more  than  tempest- tossed  foam  and  maddened  fury  of  old  ocean  ! 

In  some  places  the  impending  rocks  approach  so  near  to  each  other  from 
above,  a  person  may  almost  step  across  the  vast  chasm  opening  to  view  the 
foaming  river,  half  obscured  in  perpendicular  distance  and  dimmed  by  the 
eternal  shadows  of  thrice  vertical  walls. 

This  superbly  magnificent  scene  continues  nearly  the  entire  extent,  from 
ihe  head  of  the  Colorado  valley  to  the  boundary  between  Oregon  and  Cali- 
fornia. 

The  table  lands  and  mountains  on  both  sides,  as  a  whole,  disclose  a 
a  dreary  prospect.  Now,  the  traveller  meets  with  a  wide  reach  of  naked 
rock  paving  the  surface  to  the  exclusion  of  grass,  shrubs,  or  tree, — now,  a 
narrow  fissure,  filled  with  detritus  and  earth,  sustains  a  few  stunted  pines, — 
now,  a  spread  of  hard  sun-baked  clay  refuses  root  to  aught  earth-growing, — 
now,  a  small  space  of.  saline  efflorescences  obtrudes  upon  the  vision  its 
.«i»owv  incrustations,  alike  repulsive  to  vegetable  life  ; — then,  comes  a  broad 


INHABITANTS.  187 

area  clothed  with  thin  coarse  grass  ;  an  opening  vallon  next  greets  the  eye 
in  the  generous  growth  of  its  herbage  and  the  fertility  of  its  soil ;  a  beauti- 
ful grove  of  stately  pines,  cedars,  and  pinions,  rises  in  the  back  ground ;  a 
still  larger,  more  expansive,  and  thrice  lovely  valley,  skirts  the  banks  of 
some  bounding  stream,  and  delights  the  fancy  with  its  smiling  flowers  and 
luxuriant  verdure. 

Here,  a  huge  mountain  rears  itself  in  majesty— now,  piling  heaps  upon  heaps 
of  naked  granite,  limestone,  sandstone,  and  basalt,  variegated  and  parti-col- 
ored,— now,  thickly  studded  with  lateral  pines,  cedars,  pinions,  and  hem- 
locks,— then,  again  denuded,  till  at  last  its  sharpened  peaks  pierce  the  clouds 
while  storms  and  tempests  in  their  wild  orgies  haste  to  do  it  reverence. 
There,  a  lesser,  coniform  elevation  of  the  continuous  chain,  is  mantled  in 
living  green ;  while  perhaps  by  its  side,  another  pains  the  eye  with  the 
well  defined  lineaments  of  desolation. 

A  country  of  this  description  occupies  nearly  the  whole  interval  from 
the  two  main  branches  of  the  Colorado  to  the  dividing  ridge  of  mountains. 

The  valleys  of  the  Uintah,  and  several  other  affluents  within  its  limits, 
however,  are  broad,  fertile  and  tolerably  well  timbered.  Grass  continues 
green  nearly  the  entire  winter,  and  game  of  all  kinds  common  to  the  moun- 
tains, excepting  buffalo,  is  abundant.  The  valley  soils  are  well  adapted  to 
cultivation,  and  might  sustain  a  large  population. 

We  come  now  to  the  southeastern  extremity  of  the  province,  bordering 
upon  the  Rio  Gila  which  separates  it  fromJSonora,  and  lying  between  the 
Colorado  and  the  Sierra  de  los  Mimbros  range. 

This  stretch,  though  less  fertile  as  a  general  thing,  partakes  of  much  the 
same  characteristics  as  that  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  Colorado,  and 
upon  Rio  Virgen,  south  of  the  Digger  country,  which  was  so  fully  described 
upon  a  former  page.  The  soil,  however,  is  not  generally  so  sandy,  and  the 
landscape  is  far  more  rough  and  broken.  The  bottoms  of  the  Colorado  and 
Gila,  with  their  tributaries,  are  broad,  rich,  and  well  timbered.  Everything 
in  the  shape  of  vegetation  attains  a  lusty  size,  amply  evincing  the  exuber- 
ent  fecundity  of  the  soil  producing  it. 

There  are  many  sweet  spots  in  the  vicinity  of  both  these  streams,  well 
deserving  the  name  of  earthly  Edens.  Man  here  might  fare  sumptuously, 
with  one  continued  feast  spread  before  him  by  the  spontaneous  products  of 
the  earth,  and  revel  in  perennial  spring  or  luxurate  amid  unfading  summer. 

Yet,  notwithstanding  the  other  attractions  held  out,  game  is  much  less 
plentiful  in  this  than  in  other  parts, — probably  owing  to  the  warmth  of  the 
climate. 

Winter  is  unknown,  and  the  only  thing  that  marks  its  presence  from  that 
of  other  seasons,  is  a  continuation  of  rainy  and  damp  weather  for  some  two 
or  three  months.  All  the  wild  fruits  and  grains  indigenous  to  the  country 
are  found  here  in  profuse  abundance. 

The  entire  Eastern  Division  of  Upper  California  possesses  a  uniformly 
salubrious  and  healthful  atmosphere.  Sickness,  so  far  as  my  knowledge 
extends,  is  rarely  known. 

The  natives,  for  the  most  part,  may  be  considered  friendly,  or  at  least, 
not  dangerous.  Some  of  them,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Gila  and  the 
Gulf  of  California  are  partially  advanced  in  civilization,  and  cultivate  the 
ground,  raising  corn,  melons,  pumpkins,  beans,  potatoes,  &c. 


188  ROUTES  FROM  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

These  live  in  fixed  habitations,  constructed  of  wood,  and  coated  with 
earth,  in  a  conical  form,  much  like  Pawnee  huts. 

The  condition  and  character  of  these  tribes .  present  most  flattering  in- 
ducements for  missionary  enterprise ;  and,  should  efforts  for  their  ameliora- 
tion be  put  forth  by  zealous  and  devoted  men,  (and  meet  with  no  counter- 
acting opposition  from  the  united  influence  of  the  Mexican  Government  and 
tlie  narrow  minded  bigotry  of  an  intolerent  clergy  and  priest-ridden  people,) 
a  glorious  fruition  of  their  most  sanguine  hopes  might  soon  be  expected. 

There  are  no  settlements  of  either  whites  or  Mexicans,  to  my  knowledge, 
throughout  the  whole  extent  of  this  territory.  Indians  may,  therefore,  be 
considered  its  only  inhabitants,  other  than  the  strolling  parties  of  trappers 
and  traders  that  now  and  then  travel  it,  or  temporarily  establish  themselves 
within  its  limits.  Of  course  then  the  Eastern  Division  of  Upper  Califor- 
nia must  be  considered  without  a  people  or  a  government. 

The  Rio  Colorado  rises  in  the  U.  S.  territory  about  lat.  42°  30'  north, 
interlocking  with  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia,  Missouri,  Platte,  and 
Arkansas,  and  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  California  near  lat.  32°  north. 
Following  its  windings  it  is  some  twelve  or  fifteen  hundred  miles  in  length. 
This  stream  with  its  numerous  tributaries  is  the  only  river  worth  naming  in 
Eastern  California,  and,  to  a  great  extent,  serves  to  water  that  country. 
Owing  to  the  rapidity  of  its  current  and  its  frequent  falls  and  cascades,  the 
navigation  is  entirely  destroyed,  till  within  about  one  hundred  miles  of  its 
mouth,  at  the  head  of  tide  water ;  from  this  on  no  further  interruption  oc- 
curs, and  the  depth  is  sufficient  for  vessels  bearing  several  hundred  tons 
burthen. 

The  Gila  is  properly  a  river  of  Sonora,  though  commonly  regarded  as  the 
northern  boundary  of  that  province.  It  rises  in  the  {Sierra  de  los  Mimbros, 
near  lat.  33°  25'  north,  long.  106°  15'  west  from  Greenwich,  and  pursues 
a  west-southwesterly  course  till  it  discharges  itself  into  the '  Bay  of  the 
Colorodo,  at  lat.  32°  15'  north,  long.  114°  27  west. 

Its  whole  length  is  about  eight  hundred  miles,  for  most  of  which  distance 
navigation  is  impracticable,  with  the  exception  of  some  forty  miles  or  more 
at  its  mouth. 

These  two  rivers  are  said  to  afford  immense  quantities  of  fish,  especially 
near  their  confluence  with  the  Gulf  of  California. 

The  Gulf  also  contains  a  large  variety  and  exhaustless  supplies  of  the 
finny  tribe,  together  with  several  species  of  the  crustaceous  and  testaceous 
order.     Among  the  last  named  are  lobsters,  crabs,  clams,  and  oysters. 

Oysters  are  very  numerous  and  of  an  excellent  quality,  including  in 
variety  the  genuine  mother  pearl.  A  small  trade  in  the  shells  of  the  pearl 
oyster  is  carried  on  with  the  Arapahos,  Chyennes,  and  Sioux,  by  the 
Spaniards,  which  yields  a  very  large  profit, — a  single  shell  frequently 
bringing  from  six  to  eight  robes.  These  Indians  make  use  of  them  for 
ear-ornaments,  and  exhibit  no  little  taste  in  their  shape  and  finish. 

The  eastern  section  of  Upper  California  is  accessible  by  land  as  well  as 
sea  from  several  feasible  passes  through  the  mountain  ranges  forming  its 
eastern  boundary. 

The  best  land  routes  for  waggons  from  the  United  States  is  through  the 
South  Pass, — thence,  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake  by  Bear  river  valley, — thence 


WESTERN  CALIFORNIA.  189 


the  emigrant  can  direct  his  course  to  any  part  of  the  country,  as  interest  or 
inclination  may  suggest. 

Another  pass  is  afforded  by  way  of  the  Santa  Fe  trail  near  lat.  37° 
north ;  this,  however,  is  a  very  difficult  one  for  waggons,  and  should  only 
be  travelled  on  horseback. 

There  are  said  to  be  one  or  two  other  passes  further  south,  in  reference 
to  which  I  cannot  speak  with  certainty,  but  am  inclined  to  accredit  their 
reported  existence. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


Minerals. — Western  California. — The  Sacramento  and  contiguous  regions. — Principal 
rivers. — Fish. — Commercial  advantages- — Bay  of  San  Francisco. — Other  Bays  and 
Harbors. — Description  of  the  country ;  territory  northwest  of  the  Sacramento ; 
Tlamath  mountains ;  California  range  and  its  vicinity ;  Southern  parts  ;  timber ; 
river-bottoms ;  Valleys  of  Sacramento,  del  Plumas,  and  Tulare ;  their  extent,  fertility, 
timber  and  fruit ;  wild  grain  and  clover,  spontaneous ;  wonderful  fecundity  of  soil, 
and  its  products ;  the  productions,  climate,  rains  and  dews ;  geological  and  mineralogi- 
cal  character ;  face  of  the  country ;  its  water ;  its  healthiness  ;  game  ;  superabun- 
dance of  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep,  their  prices,  &c. ;  beasts  of  prey ;  the  inhabi- 
tants, who ;  Indians,  their  character  and  condition ;  Capital  of  the  Province,  with 
other  towns ;  advantages  of  San  Francisco ;  inland  settlements ;  foreigners  and 
Mexicans ;  Government ;  its  full  military  strength. — Remarks. 

In  the  preceding  chapter  the  reader  must  have  acquired  some  tangible 
idea  of  the  true  condition  of  Eastern  California,  with  all  its  varied  beauties 
and  deformities  ;  its  Edens  and  wastes  of  desolation ;  its  enchantments,  and 
sc.enes  of  awe  and  terrific  grandeur. 

To  have  treated  the  subject  more  in  extenso,  would  have  trespassed  upon 
prescribed  brevity ;  yet,  doubtless,  many  will  regret  my  having  said  so  little 
relative  to  the  mineralogical  character  and  resources  of  that  country.  The 
truth  is,  comparatively  little  is  known  upon  this  important  matter.  Were 
I  to  give  ear  to  common  report,  I  would  say  there  are  both  gold  and  silver, 
with  copper,  lead,  and  iron.  But  such  stories  are  not  always  to  be  credited 
unless  they  come  in  a  credible  shape. 

However,  it  is  very  probable  these  metals  do  exist  in  various  parts ;  and 
certain  it  is  that  immense  beds  of  coal  and  rock-salt  are  afforded,  with 
large  quantities  of  gypsum,  the  truth  of  which  is  placed  beyond  doubt  by  an 
accumulation  of  testimony.  With  these  few  remarks  I  turn  from  the  subject, 
and  bring  before  the  reader  another  and  more  interesting  topic. 

Following  the  only  practicable  waggon  route  from  the  U.  S.  to  Western 
California,  via  South  Pass, — thence,  after  bearing  northwest  some  forty 
miles,  by  a  long  sweep  southward  around  the  Sierra  Nevada  to  the  Rio 
Sacrimento, — the  emigrant  is  taken  through  a  succession  of  mountains, 
hills,  plains,  and  valleys,  furrowed  by  frequent  affluents  from  the  north; — 
now,  sterile  wastes  of  intervening  sand ;  now,  pleasant  spreads  of  arable 


190  ABUNDANCE  OF  FISH. 

prairies ;  now,  rugged  superfices  of  naked  rock ;  then,  beautiful  valleys 
arrayed  in  all  the  loveliness  of  perennial  verdure,  and  profuse  in  vegetation 
of  extraordinary  growth,  intermixed  with  wild-flowers  of  unrivalled  hues 
and  lavish  fragrance,  till  he  finally  reaches  his  destination. 

The  Sacramento  and  its  tributaries  water  the  greater  part  of  Western 
California. 

This  river  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  two  large  streams  which  rise 
in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  properly  termed  the  North  and  South  Forks 
the  former  heading  near  lat.  41°  43'  north,  long.  114°  5T  west.  (The  Sout'i 
Fork  is  the  stream  defining  the  waggon  route  from  the  U.  States,  via  SouU 
Pass.) 

The  Sacramento,  measured  by  its  windings,  is  about  eight  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  in  length.  It  receives  many  important  auxiliaries  above  the 
junction  of  its  two  forks,  which  greatly  increase  the  volume  and  depth  of 
its  waters.  From  its  mouth  it  is  said  to  afford  a  good  stage  of  navigation 
for  crafts  of  tolerable  burthen,  as  high  up  as  three  hundred  miles, — tide 
water  setting  back  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

Three  other  rivers,  flowing  from  the  southeast,  have  their  discharge  in 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  These  streams  are  severally  called  the  Rio  del 
Plumas,  American  Fork,  and  Tulare. 

The  former  derives  its  name  from  the  great  abundance  of  water-fowls 
which  congregate  upon  it  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  so  numerous  and 
tame  that  the  natives  not  unfrequently  kill  large  quantities  of  them  with 
clubs  or  stones  as  they  fly  through  the  air. 

The  del  Plumas  is  said  to  be  navigable,  for  boats  of  a  light  draught,  till 
within  a  hundred  miles  of  its  head, — its  whole  length  is  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles.  The  American  Fork,  or  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  is  a 
clear  and  beautiful  stream  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long,  emptying 
into  the  Sacramento  Bay  below  the  del  Plumas,  and  between  it  and  the 
Tulare.     Owing  to  frequent  rapids,  however,  its  navigation  is  destroyed. 

The  Tulare  is  said  to  be  fcur  hundred  miles  long,  and  navigable  for  one 
half  that  distance.  It  is  represented  as  watering  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing sections  of  Western  California,  and  hence  is  considered  next  in  impor- 
tance to  the  Sacramento.  This  stream  affords  some  of  the  finest  localities 
for  settlements  found  in  the  whole  country. 

Below  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  several  other  small  streams  find  their 
way  into  the  Pacific,  but  none  of  them  are  navigable  to  any  great  extent. 
The  principal  of  these  empty  as  follows :  into  the  Bay  of  Monterey,  into 
the  Ocean  near  Point  del  Esteros,  Point  Arguello,  St.  Barbara  Channel, 
San  Pedro  Bay,  and  opposite  the  island  of  St.  Clement. 

Above  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  Russian  river  is  discharged  into  Bodega 
Bay ;  further  on,  Smith's  river  empties  into  Trinidad  Bay  ;  and  two  other 
small  streams  find  their  discharge  near  Point  St.  George,  a  few  miles  below 
the  boundary  line  between  Oregon  and  California. 

Smith's  river  is  the  largest  stream  either  above  or  below  the  Bay 
of  San  Francisco,  and  is  about  two  hundred  miles  in  length,  though  un- 
navigable. 

All  these  various  rivers  and  their  affluents  are  stored  with  innumerable 
supplies  of  delicious  fish,  the  principal  of  which  are  salmon  and  salmon- 
trout.     The  Ocean  too  affords  an  exhaustless  quantity  of  the  piscatorial 


SOIL,  CLIMATE,  ETC.  191 


family,  including  whales,  cod,  and  haddock,  with  oysters,  clams,  lobsters, 
&c. 

So  great  is  the  abundance  of  fish  at  certain  seasons,  that,  with  a  rude 
seine,  the  natives  frequently  take  fifteen  or  twenty  barrels  full  at  a  single 
draught ;  fish  constituting  their  principal  subsistence. 

There  are  few,  if  any,  countries  in  the  world  possessed  of  superior  com- 
mercial advantages  to  the  western  section  of  Upper  California. 

True,  its  inland  navigation  is  limited  ;  yet,  with  an  extent  of  nearly  eight 
hundred  miles  of  sea-coast,  accessible  at  almost  any  point,  it  includes  some 
of  the  finest  bays  and  harbors  ever  known.  Of  these,  for  commodiousness 
and  safety  at  all  times,  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  stands  pre-eminently  con- 
spicuous. 

This  bay  is  an  arm  of  the  sea  extending  some  forty  miles  or  more  inland, 
shut  in,  for  the  most  part,  upon  each  side  by  precipitous  banks  of  basalt 
and  trap,  that  skirt  a  very  broken  and  hilly  country  contiguous  to  it.  The 
entrance  from  the  ocean  is  by  an  opening,  a  mile  or  more  in  width,  through 
rock-formed  walls,  between  one  and  two  hundred  feet  high.  A  recent 
traveller,*  in  describing  this  bay,  says  : — 

"  From  the  points  forming  the  entrance,  the  sea  gradually  expands  to 
some  eight  or  ten  miles  in  extent,  from  north  to  south,  and  twelve  from 
east  to  west.  At  the  extreme  eastern  part  of  the  vast  basin  thus  formed, 
its  shores  again  close  in  abruptly,  contracting  so  as  to  leave  a  pass  of  about 
two  miles  in  width,  which  forms  the  entrance  to  a  second  bay  of  still  larger 
dimensions.  From  this  gorge  their  high  rocky  banks  again  diverge  for 
some  ten  miles,  when  they  still  again  contract  to  the  narrow  space  of  one 
mile,  and  form  the  passage  to  a  third.  The  latter  is  more  spacious  than 
either  before  mentioned,  and,  formed  in  like  manner,  extends  twelve  miles 
from  east  to  west  and  fifteen  from  north  to  south,  affording  the  safest 
and  most  commodious  anchorage." 

There  is  ample  water  at  all  times  for  the  entrance  of  ships  of  the  largest 
class,  and  it  is  asserted  confidently,  that  these  three  united  bays  would  afford 
perfect  safety,  secure  anchorage,  and  ample  room  for  the  fleets  and  navies 
of  all  nations. 

Several  other  bays  and  harbors  are  situated  along  the  coast,  all  of  which, 
to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  are  favorably  spoken  of  for  general  safety  and 
good  anchorage. 

Among  the  above  are  mentioned  the  Bay  of  Monterey,  San  Pedro,  St. 
Diego,  Bodega,  and  Trinidad.  Bodega,  however,  is  represented  as  being, 
at  times,  very  unsafe  and  even  dangerous. 

With  such  extraordinary  facilities  for  commerce,  it  needs  no  prophetic 
eye  to  forsee  the  position  Western  California  is  destined  to  assume,  before 
many  years  have  passed,  and,  from  her  position  and  natural  resources,  will 
be  enabled  successfully  to  maintain  among  the  foremost  nations  of  the 
earth — provided,  always,  that  some  other  people  more  enterprising  and  en- 
lightened than  the  present  inert,  ignorant,  stupid,  and  mongrel  race  infest- 
ing it  with  their  presence,  take  possession  of  the  country,  develop  its  ener- 
gies and  bring  to  light  the  full  beauty  of  its  natural  lovliness. 

We  are  now  led  to  speak  of  the  peculiarities  of  soil,  landscape,  scenery 

*  Hastings.         , 

17 


192  COUNTRY  BELOW  THE  SACRAMENTO. 

climate,  productions,'  and  mineral  resources  of  this  interesting  country , 
and  in  so  doing,  I  would  first  draw  a  succinct  view  of  the  territory  lying 
between  the  Rio  Sacramento  and  Oregon. 

Here  we  find  the  most  forbidding  aspect,  with  one  exception,  of  any  in 
Western  California.  The  soil  is  generally  very  dry  and  barren,  and  the 
face  of  the  country  broken  and  hilly.  The  streams  of  water  (as  in  the 
Eastern  Division)  frequently  sink  and  become  lost  in  the  sand,  or  force 
themselves  into  the  Ocean  and  parent  streams  by  percolation  or  subterrane- 
an passages. 

In  many  places  is  presented  a  surface  of  white  sun-baked  clay,  entirely 
destitute  of  vegetation ;  and  in  others,  wide  spreads  of  sand,  alike  denuded ; 
and  yet  again  iron-bound  superfices  of  igneous  rock. 

Now  and  then  groves  of  pines  or  firs  spread  their  broad  branches  as  it 
were  to  cover  the  nakedness  of  nature ;  while  here  and  there  a  valley  of 
greater  or  less  extent  smiles  amid  the  surrounding  desolation. 

All  the  various  streams  are  skirted  with  bottoms  of  arable  soil,  ofttimes 
not  only  large  but  very  fertile,  though  perhaps  unadapted  to  cultivation,  on 
account  of  their  dryness,  without  a  resort  to  irrigation. 

Smith's  river  pursues  its  way,  for  forty  or  fifty  miles,  through  a  wide 
bottom  of  rich  soil,  most  admirably  suited  for  agricultural  purposes  were  it 
not  for  its  innate  aridity ; — however,  during  the  summer  season,  it  is,  to  a 
limited  extent,  watered  from  nightly  dews,  which  enable  it  to  sustain  a 
luxuriant  vegetation. 

Not  one  fourth  part  of  the  northwestern  portion  of  this  section  is  fit  for 
tillage.  That  part  contiguous  to  the  sea-coast  is  sandy  and  far  less  broken 
than  those  sections  less  interior. 

The  Tlameth  Mountains,  pursuing  a  west-southwest  course  from  Oregon, 
strike  the  coast  near  lat.  41°  north.  This  range  has  several  lofty  peaks 
covered  with  perpetual  snow,  and  shoots  its  collateral  eminences  far  into  the 
adjacent  prairies. 

There  is  one  feasible  pass  through  this  chain  a  few  miles  inland  from  the 
coast,  that  serves  well  for  the  purpose  of  intercommunication  with  Oregon. 

The  less  elevated  parts  of  these  mountains  are  frequently  covered  with 
groves  of  small  timber  and  openings  of  grass  suitable  for  pasturage,  while 
intermingled  with  them  are  occasional  valieys  and  prairillons  of  diminutive 
space,  favorable  to  the  growth  of  grain  and  vegetables.  The  same  may  be 
said  in  reference  to  the  California  chain  for  its  whole  extent,  especially  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  prairie. 

Following  the  course  of  this  latter  ridge  from  north  to  south,  we  find 
upon  both  sides  a  reach  of  very  broken  and  highly  tumulous  landscape, 
some  twenty  or  thirty  miles  broad. 

Near  the  head-waters  of  the  Sacramento,  these  lands  are  well  watered 
and  possess  a  general  character  for  fertility,  producing  a  variety  of  grass, 
with  shrubs  and  a  few  scattering  trees.  Below,  however,  they  are  more 
sterile,  owing  to  the  deficiency  of  water  ;  but  yet  they  afford  numerous  invit- 
ing spots. 

A  considerable  extent  of  country,  south  of  the  South  Fork  of  the  river 
above  named,  is  arid  and  sterile,  and  has  but  few  streams  of  water.  It  sus- 
tains, however,  among  its  hills  and  in  its  valleys,  a  sparse  vegetation  that 


EXTRAORDINARY  PRODUCTIVENESS.  193 

might  be  turned  to  a  favorable  account  for  grazing  purposes.  Only  about 
one  fourth  of  this  country  is  adapted  to  other  uses  than  stock-raising. 

Further  south  from  the  head-waters  of  the  Tulare  and  del  Plumas,  rang- 
ing between  the  coast  and  the  high  rolling  lands  skirting  the  base  of  the 
California  Mountains  to  the  boundary  of  the  Lower  Province,  a  section  of 
gently  undulating  prairie,  now  and  then  varied  with  high  hills  and  some- 
times mountains,  affords  a  rich  soil,  generally  consisting  of  dark,  sandy 
loam,  between  the  hills  and  in  the  valleys  ;  the  highlands  present  a  super- 
fice  of  clay  and  gravel,  fertilized  by  decomposed  vegetable  matter,  well 
adapted  to  grazing,  and  about  one  half  of  it  susceptible  of  cultivation. 

Timber  is  rather  scarce,  except  at  intervals  along  the  watercourses  and 
occasional  groves  among  the  hills  ;  but  along  the  coast  dense  forests  are 
frequently  found  claiming  trees  of  an  enormous  size. 

But,  one  grand  defect  exists  in  its  general  aridity,  which  renders  neces- 
sary a  resort  to  frequent  irrigation  in  the  raising  of  other  than  grain  pro- 
ducts. In  some  parts,  the  abundance  of  small  streams  would  cause  this 
task  to  become  comparatively  an  easy  one  ;  and  the  profuseness  of  dews 
in  sections  contiguous  to  the  rivers  in  some  measure  answers  as  a  substi- 
tute for  rain. 

The  bottoms  are  broad  and  extensive,  yielding  not  only  the  most  extraor- 
dinary crops  of  clover  and  other  grasses,  but  incalculable  quantities  of  wild 
oats  and  flax  of  spontaneous  growth,  with  all  the  wild  fruits  natural  to  the 
climate. 

In  returning  to  the  Sacramento  and  the  rivers  which  find  their  dischar- 
ges in  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  we  have  before  us  the  most  interesting 
and  lovely  part  of  Upper  California. 

The  largest  valley  in  the  whole  country  is  that  skirting  the  Sacramento 
and  lateral  streams.  This  beautiful  expanse  leads  inland  from  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco  for  nearly  four  hundred  miles,  almost  to  the  base  of  the  Cal- 
ifornia Mountains,  and  averages  between  sixty  and  sixty-five  miles  in 
width. 

The  valleys  of  the  del  Plumas  and  American  Fork  are  also  very  large, 
and  that  of  the  Tulare  gives  an  area  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long 
by  thirty-five  broad. 

These  valleys  are  comparatively  well  timbered  with  several  varieties  of 
wood,  consisting  principally  of  white-oak,  live-oak,  ash,  cottonwood,  cherry, 
and  willow,  while  the  adjacent  hills  afford  occasional  forests  of  pine,  cedar, 
fir,  pinion,  and  spruce. 

The  soil  as  well  as  the  climate  is  well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  all 
kinds  of  grain  and  vegetables  produced  in  the  United  States,  and  many  of 
the  varied  fruits  of  the  torrid  and  temperate  zones  can  be  successfully  rear- 
ed in  one  and  the  same  latitude. 

Among  the  grains,  grasses,  and  fruits  indigenous  to  the  country  are 
wheat,  rye,  oats,  flax,  and  clover,  (white  and  red,)  with  a  great  variety  of 
grapes,  all  of  which  are  said  to  grow  spontaneously. 

Wild  oats  frequently  cover  immense  spreads  of  bottom  and  prairie  land, 
sometimes  to  an  extent  of  several  thousand  acres,  which  resemble  in  ap* 
pearance  the  species  common  to  the  United  States.  They  usually  grow  to 
a  height  of  between  two  and  three  feet,  though  they  often  reach  a  height 
of  seven  feet. 


191  GEOLOGY  AND  MINERALS. 

The  wild  clover  of  these  valleys  is  much  like  the  common  red,  and,  in 
some  places,  is  afforded  in  great  abundance.  It  attains  a  usual  height  of 
two  feet  and  a  half,  though  it  often  measures  twice  that  height — standing 
as  thick  as  it  can  well  grow. 

Forty  bushels  per  acre  is  said  to  be  the  average  wheat  crop,  but  sixty 
and  even  one  hundred  bushels  have  been  grown  upon  a  like  spot  of  ground. 
This  grain  generally  reaches  its  maturity  in  three  or  four  months  from 
the  time  of  sowing. 

Corn  yields  well,  and  affords  an  average  of  from  fifty  to  sixty  bushels 
per  acre,  without  farther  attention  from  the  time  of  planting  till  picking. 
Potatoes,  onions,  beets,  carrots,  &c,  may  be  produced  in  any  quantity  with 
very  little  trouble.  Tobacco  has  also  been  raised  by  some  of  the  inhabit- 
ants with  most  flattering  success. 

Perhaps,  no  country  in  the  world  is  possessed  of  a  richer  or  more  fruit- 
ful soil,  or  one  capable  of  yielding  a  greater  variety  of  productions,  than 
the  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  its  tributaries. 

The  articles  previously  noticed  are  more  or  less  common  to  the  bottoms 
and  valleys  of  other  sections.  Grapes  abound  in  the  vicinity  of  most  of 
the  creeks,  which  afford  generous  wines  and  delicious  raisins  in  immense 
quantities. 

The  climate  is  so  mild  that  fires  are  needed  at  no  season  of  the  year  for 
other  than  cooking  purposes.  By  aid  of  irrigation,  many  kinds  of  vegeta- 
bles are  fresh-grown  at  any  time,  while  two  crops  of  some  species  of 
grain  may  be  produced  annually. 

Flowers  are  not  unfrequently  in  full  bloom  in  mid  winter,  and  all  nature 
bears  a  like  smiling  aspect.  In  this,  however,  we  of  course  refer  only  to 
the  low-lands  and  valleys. 

The  traveller  at  any  season  of  the  year  may  visit  at  his  option  the  frosts 
and  snows  of  eternal  winter,  or  feast  his  eyes  upon  the  verdure  and  beauty 
of  perennial  spring,  or  glut  his  taste  amid  the  luxuriant  abundance  and  rich 
maturity  of  unending  summer,  or  indulge  his  changeful  fancy  in  the  en- 
joyment of  a  magnificent  variety  of  scenery  as  well  as  of  climate,  soil, 
and  productions. 

The  only  rains  incident  to  this  country  fall  during  the  months  of  De- 
cember, January,  February,  and  March,  which  constitute  the  winter ;  at 
other  times  rain  is  very  rarely  known  to  fall.  Perhaps,  for  one  third  of  the 
four  months  before  named,  the  clouds  pour  down  their  torrents  without  in- 
termission ;  the  remaining  two  thirds  afford  clear  and  delightful  weather. 

During  the  wet  season  the  ground  in  many  parts  becomes  so  thoroughly 
saturated  with  moisture,  particularly  in  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento, 
that,  by  the  aid  of  copious  dews  to  which  the  country  is  subject,  crops  may 
be  raised  without  the  trouble  of  irrigation ;  though  its  general  aridity  con- 
stitutes the  greatest  objection  to  California. 

Of  its  geological  and  mineralogical  character  little  is  yet  known.  The 
prevailing  rock  is  said  to  be  sandstone,  mica  slate,  granite,  trap,  basalt, 
puddingstone,  and  limestone,  with  occasional  beds  of  gypsum.  Among 
its  minerals  as  commonly  reported,  are  found  gold,  silver,  iron,  coal,  and  a 
variety  of  salts.  The  mineral  resources  of  the  country  have  not  been  as 
yet  fully  investigated  to  any  great  extent,  but  the  mountains,  in  different 
parts,  are  supposed  to  be  rich  in  hidden  stores. 


GREAT  ABUNDANCE  OF  STOCK.  195 

To  speak  of  Western  California  as  a  whole,  it  may  be  pronounced  hilly, 
if  not  mountainous,  and  about  two  thirds  of  it  is  probably  fit  for  agricultu- 
ral purposes. 

The  creeks  are  frequently  immured  by  precipitous  walls  of  several  hund- 
red feet  in  altitude,  that,  expanding  here  and  there,  give  place  to  beautiful 
valleys  of  variable  width,  while  most  of  the  low-lands  upon  their  banks 
are  skirted  by  continuous  and  abrupt  acclivities  leading  to  the  high  prai- 
ries, table  lands,  and  mountains  contiguous  to  them.  Their  currents  are 
generally  clear  and  rapid,  flowing  over  beds  of  sand,  pebbles,  and  rock,  and 
afford  wholesome  and  delicious  water. 

The  air  is  almost  invariably  pure  and  free  from  the  noxious  exhalations 
common  to  many  countries,  which  contributes  greatly  to  render  the  climate 
uniformlyhealthy — a  character  which  it  has  hitherto  sustained  by  common 
report. 

Some  travellers,  however,  speak  of  large  Indian  villages  in  different 
parts,  deserted  and  in  ruins,  whose  sites  are  bestrown  with  human  bones 
and  sculls,  as  if  the  entire  population  had  been  swept  off  by  the  frightful 
ravages  of  deadly  pestilence,  and  so  suddenly  that  not  a  soul  was  left  to 
bury  their  dead  ;  and  hence  they  suppose  the  country  occasionally  subject 
to  devastating  sicknesses.  The  above,  however,  may  with  equal  propriety 
be  charged  to  the  account  of  war. 

Game  is  quite  plentiful  in  the  Western  Division  of  Upper  California, 
and  in  many  places  extremely  abundant,  especially  in  the  mountains 
near  the  head-waters  of  the  Tulare  and  Sacramento  rivers. 

Among  the  different  varieties  are  enumerated  deer,  (black-tailed  and 
white-tailed,)  elk,  antelope,  goats,  bear,  (black,  red,  and  grizzly,)  beaver, 
geese,  brants,  ducks,  and  grouse,  with  wild  horses  and  cattle ; — buffalo 
are  unknown  to  the  Province. 

Never  was  a  country  better  adapted  to  stock-raising  than  is  this,  and 
perhaps  none,  according  to  the  number  of  its  inhabitants,  so  abundantly 
supplied  with  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep.  The  former  of  these  abound  in 
countless  numbers,  whenever  a  white  man  or  a  Spanio-Mexican  makes  it 
his  residence.  A  single  individual  frequently  owns  from  eight  to  ten  thou- 
sand head  of  horses  and  mules  ;  and,  not  rarely,  even  as  high  as  fifteen  or 
twenty  thousand. 

These  animals  are  very  hardy  and  trim-built,  and  only  a  trifle  smaller 
than  those  common  to  the  United  States.  I  have  seen  many  of  them  equal- 
ly as  large  as  the  American  breed,  and,  as  a  general  thing,  they  are  more 
durable  under  fatigue  and  hardship. 

The  choicest  animals  from  a  band  of  several  thousand  may  be  purchas- 
ed for  ten  dollars,  and  the  ordinary  price  for  prime  selections  ranges  from 
three  to  five  dollars,  while  mares  may  be  procured  for  two  dollars  per  head. 

Cattle  are  equally  plenty,  at  prices  varying  from  two  to  four  dollars  per 
head. 

Stock  is  raised  without  trouble,  as  the  abundance  of  grass  affords  pas- 
turage the  entire  season,  nor  is  necessary  a  resort  to  either  hay  or  house. 
In  fact,  both  cattle  and  horses  not  only  thrive  best  but  are  fattest  in  the 
winter  season,  owing  to  the  absence  of  flies  and  insects,  as  well  as  the 
partial  freshness  of  vegetation. 

The  common  method  of  stock-raising  is  bv  turning  them  loose  into  the 

XT* 


196  PRINCIPAL  TOWNS. 


bottoms  and  prairies,  accompanied  by  a  herdsman,  or  two,  or  more,  a  la 
Mexican,  (according  to  the  size  of  the  band,)  where  they  are  left  to  in- 
crease, and  no  further  care  is  bestowed  upon  them. 

Sheep  too  are  raised  in  vast  numbers  after  the  above  manner.  They  in- 
crease with  astonishing  rapidity,  and  usually  produce  their  young  twice  a 
year.  Their  wool,  however,  is  much  coarser  than  that  grown  in  the 
United  States.  This  latter  fact  is  accounted  for  by  their  inferiority  of 
breed,  though  their  flesh  is  sweeter  and  better  than  the  American  mut- 
ton. 

Wolves  are  said  to  be  numerous  and  troublesome,  and  not  unfrequently 
prove  a  source  of  great  annoyance  to  the  inhabitants  by  destroying  their 
sheep,  calves,  colts,  and  even  full-grown  cattle  and  horses. 

Among  them  are  included  the  black,  gray,  and  prairie  wolf.  The  black 
wolf  is  the  largest  and  most  ferocious,  equalling  the  size  of  our  common 
cur-dog. 

Foxes  are  also  said  to  be  numerous,  but  are  of  a  diminutive  size.  The 
above  are  the  only  beasts  of  prey  worth  naming. 

The  foregoing  summary  leads  us  to  notice  the  present  state  of  the 
country,  its  inhabitants,  government,  and  military  strength. 

Upper  California  at  the  present  time  is  in  the  united  possession  of 
the  Indians,  Mexicans,  English,  and  French ;  not  as  rulers,  but  as 
land-holders  and  inhabitants. 

The  Indians  are  supposed  to  number  some  thirty  or  forty  thousand 
souls,  and  are  scattered  over  the  entire  Province.  Excepting  the  Dig- 
gers, the  Utahs,  the  Snakes,  and  those  residing  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Tlameth  Mountains,  they  are  quite  similar  in 
character  and  condition  to  those  noticed  as  being  residents  of  the  Gila 
and  adjacent  regions. 

They  are  mild  and  timorous,  and  incapable  of  opposing  any  very  se- 
rious impediment  to  the  progress  of  settlements.  Fifteen  Americans, 
armed  with  good  rifles,  are  equal  to  one  or  two  hundred  of  such  ene- 
mies in  ordinary  cases. 

The  Catholics  .have  twenty  or  more  missions  among  them,  the  effect 
of  which  has  been  not  so  much  to  advance  their  civilization,  or  convert 
them  to  the  truths  of  Christianity,  as  to  render  them  the  slaves  of  a  cor- 
rupt and  vicious  priesthood. 

Monterey  is  the  present  capital  of  Upper  California.  It  is  beautifully 
situated  upon  a  gently  undulating  plain,  in  full  view  of  the  Ocean  and 
harbor,  and  contains  about  one  thousand  inhabitants.  Its  houses  are 
constructed  of  adobies,  after  the  Mexican  fashion. 

South  of  this  town  are  several  other  places  of  considerable  impor- 
tance along  the  coast,  viz :  San  Diego,  San  Gabriel,  snd  San  Barbara ; 
all  of  which  are  well  located  for  commercial  purposes. 

A  town  called  the  Pueblo  is  situated  upon  a  small  river  that  debouches 
between  San  Diego  and  San  Gabriel.  This  town  is  a  few  miles  removed 
from  the  coast,  and  is  said  to  be  the  largest  one  in  California.  It  contains 
a  population  of  about  fifteen  hundred,  and  is  the  grand  centripot  of  over- 
land intercourse  with  New  Mexico. 

Above  Monterey  are  two  other  towns,  bearing  the  names  of  Sonoma  and 
San  Francisco, 


WHAT  THE  RESULT  WILL  BE.  197 

The  latter  is  situated  upon  the  bay  of  that  name,  and,  from  its  superior 
commercial  advantages,  is  destined  to  become  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
important  business  cities  upon  the  western  coast  of  the  American  conti- 
nent. Possessed  of  one  of  the  finest  and  most  commodious  harbors  in  the 
world,  (emphatically  the  harbor  of  harbors,)  and  located  at  the  mouth  of 
a  large  navigable  river,  that  waters  a  vast  expanse  of  country  unsurpass- 
ed in  fertility,  what  should  hinder  it  from  assuming  that  commanding  po- 
sition designed  for  it  by  nature  ? 

It  is  built  after  the  English  manner,  and  its  inhabitants,  numbering 
about  two  hundred,  are  principally  American,  English,  and  French,  with 
a  few  Mexicans  and  Indians. 

There  are  also  several  settlements  upon  the  Sacramento  and  other 
rivers,  consisting  mostly  of  foreigners. 

The  Catholic  missions  are  generally  the  nucleus  of  small  Mexican  and 
Indian  villages,  and  derive  their  support  from  agricultural  pursuits. 

Aside  from  these,  the  country  is  entirely  devoid  of  population  other  than 
wild  beasts  and  uncultivated  savages.  The  white  inhabitants  are  com- 
puted at  one  thousand  or  more,  and  are  generally  Americans ;  while  be- 
tween ten  and  twelve  thousand  Mexicans  curse  the  country  with  their 
presence,  and  disgrace  the  Edens  they  possess. 

The  government  of  California  has  been,  like  all  Mexican  governments, 
very  lax  and  inefficient.  It  was  but  little  other  than  a  despotism,  or,  ra- 
ther, a  complicated  machine  for  the  oppression  of  the  people  and  the  perver- 
sion of  justice!  and  infinitely  worse  than  none. 

Whether  the  late  revolution  has  produced  a  better  order  of  things  re- 
mains to  be  determined  ;  but,  one  fact  is  worthy  of  notice — no  permanent 
reformation  can  be  effected  so  long  as  Mexicans  exercise  any  controlling 
influence  in  the  administration  of  the  laws ;  and,  to  speak  plainly,  not  un- 
til the  government  is  placed  in  other  and  better  hands. 

The  Mexicans  occupy  eight  military  stations  at  different  points  along 
the  coast,  garrisoned  by  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  soldiers,  and  mount- 
ing some  fifty  pieces  of  artillery.  The  largest  of  these  fortifications  is  at 
Monterey.  This  post  is  garrisoned  by  two  hundred  soldiers,  and  twelve 
pieces  of  canon — while  the  fort  at  New  Helvetia,  held  by  the  Americans, 
mounts  an  equal  number. 

In  case  of  an  emergency,  it  is  supposed  the  whole  Mexican  force  might 
possibly  amount  to  between  ten  and  eleven  hundred  men — in  efficiency 
nearly  equal  to  a  party  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  well-armed  Americans. 

It  will  be  seen  at  a  mere  glance,  that  Mexico  cannot  maintain  her  hold 
upon  California  for  many  years  to  come.  Emigrants  from  the  United  States 
and  other  countries,  attracted  by  its  fertile  soil  and  healthful  climate,  will 
continue  to  pour  into  it  with  increased  ratio,  until,  by  outnumbering  the 
degraded  race  that  at  present  bears  sway,  this  delightful  portion  of  the  globe 
shall  of  necessity  become  either  the  dependency  of  some  foreign  power  or 
assume  a  separate  and  distinct  existence  as  an  independent  nation. 


198 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

Visitors  at  Uintah. — Adventures  of  a  trapping  party. — The  Munchies,  or  white  Indi- 
ans ;  some  account  of  them. — Amusements  at  rendezvous. — Mysterious  city,  and 
attempts  at  its  exploration, — speculation  relative  to  its  inhabitants. — Leave  for  Fort 
Hall. — Camp  at  Bear  river. — Boundary  between  the  U.  States  and  Mexico. — 
Green  valleys,  &c. — Country  en  route. — Brown's-hole. — Geological  observations. — 
Soda,  Beer,  and  Steamboat  springs  ;  their  peculiarities. — Minerals. — Valley  of  Bear 
river ;  its  fertility,  timber,  and  abundance  of  wild  fruit. — Buffalo  berries — Superior 
advantages  of  this  section. — Mineral  tar. 

Our  stay  at  the  Uintah  was  prolonged  for  some  ten  days.  The  gentle- 
man in  charge  at  this  post  spared  no  pains  to  render  my  visit  agreeable, 
and,  in  answer  to  enquiries,  cheerfully  imparted  all  the  information  in  his 
possession  relative  to  the  localities,  geography,  and  condition  of  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

A  trapping  party  from  the  Gila  came  in  soon  after  our  arrival,  bringing 
with  them  a  rich  quantity  of  beaver,  which  they  had  caught  during  the  pre- 
ceding winter,  spring,  and  summer  upon  the  affluents  of  that  river  and  the 
adjacent  mountain  streams.  They  had  made  a  successful  hunt,  and  gave 
a  glowing  description  of  the  country  visited,  and  the  general  friendliness  of 
its  inhabitants. 

The  natives,  in  some  parts  of  their  range,  had  never  before  seen  a  white 
man,  and,  after  the  first  surprise  had  subsided,  treated  them  with  great  de- 
ference and  respect.  These  simple  and  hospitable  people  supplied  them 
with  corn,  beans,  and  melons,  and  seemed  at  all  times  well  disposed. 

The  only  difficulty  encountered  with  them  took  place  upon  one  of  the 
northern  tributaries  of  the  Gila.  Two  or  three  butcher-knives  and  other 
little  articles  being  missing  from  camp,  the  trappers  at  once  accused  the 
Indians  of  stealing,  and  demanded  their  prompt  restoration.  The  latter 
they  were  either  unable  or  unwilling  to  do,  and  thereupon  a  volley  of  rirlery 
was  discharged  among  the  promiscuous  throng,  with  fatal  effect.  Several 
were  killed  and  others  wounded,  and  the  whole  troop  of  timorous  savages 
immediately  took  to  their  heels,  nor  dared  to  return  again. 

In  narrating  the  events  of  their  long  excursion,  an  account  was  given  of 
visiting  the  Munchies,  a  tribe  of  white  Indians. 

What  added  much  to  the  interest  I  felt  in  this  part  of  their  story,  was  the 
recollection  of  an  article  which  went  the  newspaper  rounds  several  years 
since,  stating  the  existence  of  such  a  tribe.  I  had  disbelieved  it  at  the  time ; 
but  this,  and  subsequent  corroborative  evidence,  has  effectually  removed  from 
my  mind  all  doubts  upon  the  subject. 

Our  trappers  had  remained  with  the  Munchies  for  four  weeks,  and  spoke 
of  them  in  high  terms. 

In  reference  to  theii  color  they  were  represented  as  being  of  a  much 
foirer  complexion  than  Europeans  generally,  a  thing  easily  explained  if  we 
remember  this  one  fact,  i.  e.,  my  informants  must  have  spoken  compara- 


WHITE  INDIANS.  199 

tively,  taking  themselves  as  the  true  representatives  of  that  race,  when  in 
reality  their  own  color,  by  constant  exposure  to  the  weather,  had  acquired 
a  much  darker  hue  than  ordinary ;  then  drawing  their  conclusions  from  a 
false  standard,  they  were  led  to  pronounce  the  fair  natives  much  fairer,  as 
a  body,  than  the  whites. 

By  information  derived  from  various  sources,  I  am  enabled  to  present  the 
following  statement  relative  to  this  interesting  people  : 

The  Munchies  are  a  nation  of  white  aborigines,  actually  existing  in  a 
valley  among  the  Sierra  de  los  Mimbros  chain,  upon  one  of  the  affluents  of 
the  Gila,  in  the  extreme  northwestern  part  of  the  Province  of  Sonora. 

They  number  about  eight  hundred  in  all.  Their  country  is  surrounded 
by  lofty  mountains  at  nearly  every  point,  and  is  well  watered  and  very  fer- 
tile, though  of  limited  extent.  Their  dwellings  are  spacious  apartments 
nicely  excavated  in  the  hill-sides,  and  are  frequently  cut  in  the  solid 
rock. 

They  subsist  by  agriculture,  and  raise  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep.  Their 
features  correspond  with  those  of  Europeans,  though  with  a  complexion, 
perhaps,  somewhat  fairer,  and  a  form  equally  if  not  more  graceful. 

Among  them  are  many  of  the  arts  and  comforts  of  civilized  life.  They 
spin  and  weave,  and  manufacture  butter  and  cheese,  with  many  of  the  lux- 
uries known  to  more  enlightened  nations. 

Their  political  economy,  though  much  after  the  patriarchal  order,  is  purely 
republican  in  its  character.  The  old  men  exercise  the  supreme  control  in 
the  enactment  and  execution  of  laws.  These  laws  are  usually  of  the  most 
simple  form,  and  tend  to  promote  the  general  welfare  of  the  community. 
They  are  made  by  a  concurrent  majority  of  the  seniors  in  council, — each 
male  individual,  over  a  specified  age,  being  allowed  a  voice  and  a  vote. 

Questions  of  right  and  wrong  are  heard  and  adjudged  by  a  committee 
selected  from  the  council  of  seniors,  who  are  likewise  empowered  to  redress 
the  injured  and  pass  sentence  upon  the  criminal. 

In  morals  they  are  represented  as  honest  and  virtuous.  In  religion  they 
difTer  but  little  from  other  Indians. 

They  are  strictly  men  of  peace,  and  never  go  to  war,  nor  even,  as  a  com- 
mon thing,  oppose  resistance  to  the  hostile  incursions  of  surrounding  na- 
tions. On  the  appearance  of  an  enemy,  they  immediately  retreat,  with  their 
cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  other  valuables,  to  mountain  caverns,  fitted  at  all 
times  for  their  reception, — where,  by  barricading  the  entrances,  they  are  at 
once  secure  without  a  resort  to  arms. 

In  regard  to  their  origin  they  have  lost  all  knowledge  or  even  tradition, 
(a  thing  not  likely  to  have  happened  had  they  been  the  progeny  of  Europeans 
at  any  late  period, — that  is,  since  the  time  of  Columbus ;)  neither  do  their 
characters,  manners,  customs,  arts,  or  government  savor  of  modern  En 
rope. 

Could  a  colony  or  party  of  Europeans  in  the  short  period  of  three  centu- 
ries and  a  halt  lose  all  trace  of  their  origin,  religion,  habits,  arts,  civilization, 
and  government  ?  Who,  for  a  moment,  would  entertain  an  idea  so  estranged 
to  probability  ? 

And  yet  the  Munchies  cannot  be  real  Indians, — they  must  be  of  Euro- 
pean descent,  though  circumstances  other  than  complexion  afTord  no  evi- 


200  THE  MYSTERIOUS  CITY. 

dence  of  identity  with  either  race.  Where,  then,  shall  we  place  them  ? — 
from  whence  is  there  origin  ? 

We  are  forced  to  admit  the  weight  of  circumstantial  testimony  as  to 
their  having  settled  upon  this  continent  prior  to  its  discovery  by  Columbus. 
Here  we  are  led  to  inquire,  are  they  not  the  remote  descendants  of  some 
colony  of  ancient  Romans  ? 

That  such  colonies  did  here  exist  in  former  ages,  there  is  good  reason 
for  believing.  The  great  lapse  of  time  and  other  operative  causes  combined, 
may  have  transformed  the  Munchies  from  the  habits,  customs,  character, 
religion,  arts,  civilization,  and  language  of  the  Romans,  to  the  condition  in 
which  they  are  at  present  found* 

Among  the  visitors  at  the  Fort  were  several  old  trappers  who  had  passsd 
fifteen  or  twenty  years  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  neighboring  countries. 
They  were  what  might,  with  propriety,  be  termed  "  hard  cases." 

The  interval  of  their  stay  was  occupied  in  gambling,  horse-racing,  and 
other  like  amusements. 

Bets  were  freely  made  upon  everything  involving  the  least  doubt, — some- 
times to  the  amount  of  five  hundred  or  a  thousand  dollars — the  stakes  con- 
sisting of  beaver,  horses,  traps,  &c. 

Not  unfrequently  the  proceeds  of  months  of  toil,  suffering,  deprivation, 
and  danger,  were  dissipated  in  a  few  hours,  and  the  unfortunate  gamester 
left  without  beaver,  horse,  trap,  or  even  a  gun.  In  such  cases  they  bore 
their  reverses  without  grumbling,  and  relinquished  all  to  the  winner,  as  un- 
concernedly as  though  these  were  affairs  of  every-day  occurrence. 

These  veterans  of  the  mountains  were  very  communicative,  and  fond  of 
relating  their  adventures,  many  of  which  were  so  vested  with  the  marvel- 
ous as  to  involve  in  doubt  their  credibility. 

Were  it  not  for  extending  the  limits  of  this  work  too  far,  I  should  be 
tempted  to  transcribe  the  choicest  of  them  for  the  reader's  amusement ;  but, 
as  it  is,  I  cannot  refuse  place  to  one  (here  for  the  first  time  related  in  my 
hearing,  which  has  subsequently  reached  me  from  other  sources)  relative 
to  a  subject  deeply  interesting  to  the  curious. 

Stevens,  in  his  "  Incidents  of  Travel  in  Yucatan,"  admits  it  to  be  quite 
possible  that  cities  like  those  in  ruins  at  Uxmal  and  Palenque,  may  yet 
exist  in  the  unexplored  parts  of  the  Mexican  Republic,  and  be  inhabited  by 
a  people  in  all  respects  similar  to  that  once  occupying  the  before  named. 

Those  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  the  country  embraced  in  the  moun- 
tainous portions  of  Mexico,  must  admit  the  possibility  of  such  a  thing. 
With  this  premise  I  give,  the  story  as  I  heard  it. 

Five  or  six  years  since,  a  party  of  trappers,  in  search  for  beaver,  penetrated 
\nto  an  unfrequented  part  of  the  mountains  forming  the  eastern  boundary 
of  Sonora. 

During  their  excursion  they  ascended  a  lofty  peak  that  overlooked  an  ex- 
tensive valley,  apparently  enclosed  upon  all  sides  by  impassable  mountains. 
At  a  long  distance  down  the  valley,  by  aid  of  a  spy-glass,  they  could 
plainly  distinguish  houses  and  people,  with  every  indication  of  a  populous 
city. 

At  the  poiw  from  whence  this  discovery  was  made,  the  mountain-side 


ITS  INHABITANTS,  WHO?  201 

facing  the  valley  was  a  precipitous  wall  of  vertical  rock,  several  hundred 
feet  to  its  base,  rendering  a  descent  impossible. 

After  trying  at  other  places,  with  like  ill-success,  they  were  at  length 
compelled  to  relinquish  the  design  of  further  investigation  for  the  time 
being. 

Subsequently,  on  visiting  Arispie,  a  town  of  Sonora,  several  foreigners 
were  induced  to  join  them  in  a  return  expedition,  and  a  company  of  some 
twenty  or  twenty-five  repaired  to  the  place  for  the  purpose  of  prosecuting 
a  research  so  interesting. 

On  arriving  at  the  mountain  from  whence  the  object  of  their  curiosity 
had  been  first  seen,  there  lay  before  them  the  valley  and  city  with  its  domes 
and  palaces,  amid  which  a  swarming  population  was  distinctly  observed, 
apparently  engaged  in  the  prosecution  of  their  various  avocations.  There 
could  be  no  doubt  of  its  reality,  but  how  to  reach  it  was  the  next  question. 

A  number  of  days  were  occupied  in  vain  search  for  a  pass  into  the  val- 
ley. The  creek  upon  which  it  lay  was  found  to  emerge  from  the  vast 
enclosure,  through  the  mountain,  by  a  frightful  chasm  formed  of  vertical 
rocks  upon  each  side,  for  hundreds  and  even  thousands  of  feet  in  altitude. 
The  current  was  rapid,  and  interrupted  by  frequent  falls  that  precluded  the 
possibility  of  a  passage  up  its  bed.  They  crossed  it,  and,  finding  a  con- 
venient slope,  again  ascended  the  mountain. 

On  reaching  the  summit,  a  counterscarp  was  observed,  where,  by  dint 
of  great  exertion,  a  descent  could  be  effected ;  but  not  with  horses. 

Arrangements  were  made  accordingly,  and  one  half  of  the  party  remained 
with  the  animals  and  baggage,  while  the  others,  continuing  the  exploration, 
finally  succeeded  in  entering  the  valley. 

Meanwhile,  the  movements  of  the  advancing  party  were  viewed  with 
great  anxiety  by  those  in  reserve.  In  the  course  of  the  succeeding  day 
they  were  seen  to  enter  the  city  and  mingle  among  its  inhabitants ;  but, 
after  that,  they  were  never  again  seen  or  heard  of. 

Three  weeks  elapsed  and  no  sign  of  them  appeared.  At  length  their 
companions  were  forced  by  hunger  to  leave  the  spot  and  abandon  them  to 
their  fate. 

Another  attempt  to  explore  this  mysterious  locality  is  reported  to  have 
been  made  by  a  company  of  Spaniards,  some  of  whom  penetrated  the  val- 
ley, but  never  returned. 

The  site  of  this  city,  if  the  story  of  its  existence  be  true,  is  undoubtedly 
the  bed  of  an  ancient  lake,  whose  waters  have  become  gradually  drained 
by  a  forced  passage  through  the  mountain,  thus  forming  the  chasm  and 
creek  above  noticed. 

The  people  inhabiting  it  are  probably  from  the  stock  of  original  Mexicans,* 
who  sought  this  as  a  secure  retreat  from  the  terror  of  Spanish  oppression 

*  Baron  Humboldt  and  some  other  travellers  speak  of  quite  extensive  ruins  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Gila,  which  are  attributed  to  a  different  race  of  people  from  those 
now  inhabiting  that  country,  or  even  the  ancient  Mexicans.  Some  of  them  are  rer> 
resented  as  being  in  a  tolerable  state  of  preservation,  particularly  one,  which  is  know* 
as  the  "  cassa  grand."  No  reasonable  conjecture  as  to  their  origin  has  yet  been  ad- 
duced. If  they  are  not  the  ruined  fabrics  of  ancient  Mexican  grandeur,  to  whom 
are  we  to  look  for  their  parentage  \ 

The  diversity  of  character  between  them  and  those  of  Uxmal,  Palenque,  and  other 


202  A  MINIAITURE  OCEAN. 

in  the  time  of  Cortez;  since  which  their  posterity  have  lived  here  unknown 
to  the  rest  of  the  world. 

Taught  by  the  bitter  experience  of  past  ages  to  hate  and  distrust  the 
white  man,  and  still  cherishing  their  traditionary  animosity,  they  permit 
none  of  that  race  to  return  who  visit  them,  and,  from  the  peculiarity  of 
their  position  and  jealous  caution,  have  successfully  maintained  an  uninter- 
rupted in  cog. 

Several  trappers  rendezvoused  1ft  the  Uintah  being  about  to  leave  for 
Fort  Hall,  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia  river,  I  improved  the  oppor- 
tunity of  bearing  them  company. 

My  necessary  arrangements  were  completed  simply  by  exchanging  horses ; 
and,  on  the  morning  of  Oct.  29th,  I  bade  farewell  to  my  new  acquaintances 
at  the  Fort,  and  joined  the  party  en  route>  which,  including  myself  and 
compagnons  de  voyage  from  Fort  Lancaster,  numbered  eleven  in  all,  well 
mounted  and  armed. 

The  weather  proved  delightful  considering  the  lateness  of  the  season, 
and  our  journey  was  rapid  and  uninterrupted. 

On  leaving  the  Uintah  we  continued  northward,  over  a  rough  country,  for 
some  twenty-five  miles,  and  passed  the  night  at  Ashley's  Fork,*  with  a 
small  village  of  Snake  Indians. 

Resuming  our  course  through  a  mountainous  region,  diversified  by  beauti- 
ful little  valleys,  late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  we  camped  in  the 
vicinity  of  Brown's-hole. 

Bearing  from  thence  a  southwesterly  course,  two  days  afterwards  we 
arrived  at  Bear  river,  and  obtained,  from  an  adjoining  eminence,  a  distant 
view  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 

Continuing  down  the  river  a  few  miles,  we  struck  camp,  and  remained 
some  three  days  for  the  purpose  of  hunting. 

Being  unwilling  to  leave  the  vicinity  without  a  more  perfect  observation 
of  this  vast  inland  sea,  I  improved  the  interval  for  that  purpose,  and,  in  a 
few  hours'  ride,  came  to  a  point  which  overlooked  its  briny  waters  and 
spread  out  before  me  an  object  of  so  much  interest  to  all  beholders. 

Its  whilom  waves  now  lay  slumbering  upon  its  bosom,  for  not  a  breath 
of  air  stirred  to  awake  them  from  their  transient  repose,  save  that  caused 

ruined  cities  of  Central  America,  puzzles  us  still  more ;  arid,  as  the  feeble  ray  of  con- 
jecture is  the  only  source  from  whence  light  may  be  thrown  upon  this  mysterious  sub- 
ject, we  would  prefer  the  suggestion,  that  the  progenitors  of  the  Munchies,  or  white 
Indians,  might  have  been  their  builders ;  or,  if  the  reported  existence  of  the  city  of 
the  mountains  as  stated  in  the  text  be  true,  might  not  the  ancestors  of  the  people  now  in- 
habiting it  have  had  some  hand  in  their  original  construction  ?  But,  if  the  latter  be 
the  case,  and  these  relics  are  not  the  product  of  Mexican  civilization,  the  question 
yet  remains  unanswered,  viz :  who  are  the  residents  of  that  city  and  whence  is 
their  origin  ? 

*  This  stream  is  named  in  memory  of  Gen.  Ashley,  of  Mo.,  who,  while  engaged  in 
the  fur  trade,  attempted  to  descend  the  Colorado  in  boats,  thinking  thus  to  reach  St. 
Louis  by  a  direct  water  communication !  However,  he  was  compelled  to  relinquish 
his  strange  enterprise  at  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  and 
danger  attendant  upon  a  further  progress. 


GRANDUER  AND  LOVELINESS.  203 

by  the  flutterings  of  countless  water-fowls  which  beskimmed  the  crystal 
blue  or  rode  upon  its  surface. 

No  sound  disturbed  the  stillness  of  its  solitude,  save  that  of  my  own 
footsteps  commingling  with  the  incessant  chatter  of  aquatic  birds.  In 
solemn  grandeur  it  lay  before  the  eye  a  desert  of  waters,  bounded  upon 
three  sides  by  the  curving  horizon,  while  from  the  fourth  a  beautiful  ex- 
panse of  verdancy  smiled  upon  its  solitude. 

The  island  with  its  lone  mountain,  qf  which  I  have  spoken  in  a  former 
chapter,  arose  in  full  view,  apparently  a  short  distance  to  the  southwest. 
It  was  a  grand  and  imposing  spectacle,  and  I  much  regretted  the  impossi- 
bility of  reaching  it.  Its  giant  piles  of  naked  rock  and  sun-baked  clay, 
seemed  scanning  the  surrounding  waves,  to  smile  upon  their  soft  blandish- 
ments or  frown  at  their  rudeness. 

But  the  Island,  the  Lake,  and  the  country  contiguous,  have  been  fully 
described  in  former  pages,  which  of  right  precludes  a  further  notice  at  this 
time. 

On  resuming  our  course  we  continued  up  Bear  river  to  the  famous  min- 
eral springs, — thence  bearing  a  northwesterly  direction,  wTe  arrived  at  Fort 
Hal]  late  in  the  afternoon  of  Nov.  9th. 

The  route  from  Uintah  to  this  point  presents  many  interesting  localities 
some  of  which  call  for  more  than  a  mere  passing  notice.  That  situate 
upon  Green  river,  known  as  Brown's-hole,*  coming  first  in  order,  seems 
to  assert  a  merited  precedence. 

Descending  by  a  steep,  difficult  pass  from  the  west,  fifty  miles  north  of 
Ashley's  Fork,  the  traveller  is  ushered  into  a  beautiful  valley,  some  fifteen 
miles  long  by  ten  broad,  shut  in  upon  all  sides   by  impassable  mountains 

*  This  locality  has  received  the  soubriquet  of  Brown's-hole  from  the  following  cir- 
cumstance : 

Some  six  or  seven  years  since,  a  trapper,  by  the  name  of  Brown,  came  to  it  in  the 
fall  season  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  in  its  vicinity.  During  his  stay  a  fall  of  snow 
closed  the  passes  so  effectually,  he  was  forced  to  remain  till  the  succeeding  spring 
before  he  could  escape  from  his  lonely  prison. 

It  was  formerly  a  favorite  resort  for  the  Snake  Indians,  on  account  of  its  exhaust- 
less  stores  of  game  and  wild  fruits,  as  well  as  its  security  from  the  approach  of  ene- 
mies. 

INote. — Taking  latitude  42°  north  as  the  northern  boundary  between  Oregon  and 
California,  these  interesting  regions  of  country  are  embraced  within  the  limits  of  the  lat- 
ter ;  but  taking  the  head-waters  of  the  Arkansas  as  the  true  point,  and  thence,  by  a 
line  running  due  west  to  the  Pacific,  nearly  the  whole  of  it  will  be  found  within  the 
United  States. 

The  treaty  with  Spain  in  1819,  defining  this  boundary,  which  was  subsequently 
confirmed  by  Mexico,  after  noting  Red  river  as  the  northern  boundary  of  its  eastern 
provinces,  to  longitude  100°  west  from  Greenwich,  and  thence  north  to  the  Arkansas, 
uses  the  following  words  : 

"  Thence,  following  the  course  of  the  south  bank  of  the  Arkansas  to  its  source, 
in  latitude  42Q  north,  thence  by  that  parallel  of  latitude  to  the  South  Sea." 

If  the  source  of  the  Arkansas,  by  its  south  bank,  is  in  lat.  42°  north,  then  the  mat- 
ter of  boundary  admits  of  no  question ;  but  if  it  is  not  in  that  parallel  of  latitude, 
ehould  the  latter  be  regarded  as  the  true  boundary,  when  it  is  evident,  from  the  words 
of  the  treaty  that  the  source  of  the  Arkansas  by  its  south  bank,  was  the  intended 

18 


204  VICINITY  OF  BEAR  RIVER. 

that  guard  it  from  the  world  without.  The  only  feasible  entrance  is 
upon  the  east  side  through  a  remarkable  canon  sixty  yards  wide,  formed  by 
craggy  rocks  six  or  eight  hundred  feet  in  altitude,  succeeded  by  a  still 
narrower  and  more  precipitous  one,  towering  to  a  height  of  twelve  or  fifteen 
hundred  feet. 

This  valley  is  intersected  by  Green  river,  which,  emerging  from  the  lofty 
ridges  above,  and  tracing  its  way  through  the  narrow  and  frightful  canons 
below,  here  presents  a  broad,  smooth  stream,  fifty  or  sixty  yards  wide,  with 
sloping  banks,  and  passably  well  timbered. 

Here  all  the  various  wild  fruits  indigenous  to  the  country  are  found  in 
great  abundance,  with  countless  multitudes  of  deer,  elk,  and  sheep. 

The  soil  is  of  a  dark  loam,  very  fertile  and  admirably  adapted  to  cultiva- 
tion. Vegetation  attains  a  rank  growth  and  continues  green  the  entire 
year. 

Spring  wedded  to  summer  seems  to  have  chosen  this  sequestered  spot 
for  her  fixed  habitation,  where,  when  dying  autumn  woos  the  sere  frost  and 
snow,  of  winter  she  may  withdraw  to  her  flower-garnished  retreat  and 
smile  and  bloom  forever. 

The  surrounding  mountains  are  from  fifteen  hundred  to  two  thousand 
feet  high,  and  present  several  peaks  where  snow  claims  an  unyielding  do- 
minion year  after  year,  in  awful  contrast  with  the  beauty  and  loveliness 
that  lies  below.  • 

Few  localities  in  the  mountains  are  equal  to  this,  in  point  of  beautiful  and 
romantic  scenery.  Every  thing  embraced  in  its  confines  tends  to  inspire 
the  beholder  with  commingled  feelings  of  awe  and  admiration. 

Its  long,  narrow  gate-way,  walled  in  by  huge  impending  rocks,  for  hun- 
dreds of  feet  in  altitude, — the  lofty  peaks  that  surround  it,  clothed  in  eternal 
snow, — the  bold  stream  traversing  it,  whose  heaving  bosom  pours  sweet 
music  into  the  ears  of  listening  solitude, — the  verdant  lawn,  spreading  far 
and  wide,  garnished  with  blushing  wild-flowers  and  arrayed  in  the  habili- 
ments of  perennial  spring, — all,  all  combine  to  invest  it  with  an  enchant- 
ment as  soul-expanding  in  its  sublimity  as  it  is  fascinating  in  its  loveliness. 

The  country  contiguous  to  Bear  river,  back  from  the  valleys,  is  generally 
rugged  and  sterile.  Sometimes  the  surface  for  a  considerable  extent  is 
entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  presents  a  dreary  waste  of  rocks,  or  clay 
hardened  to  a  stone-like  consistency  by  the  sun's  rays.  Now  and  then  a 
few  dwarfish  pines  and  cedars  meet  the  eye  amid  the  surrounding  desola- 
tion, and  occasional  clusters  of  coarse  grass  intervene  at  favoring  depres- 
sions among  the  rocks. 

farthest  northern  extremity  of  Mexico,  where  the  line  between  the  two  countries 
shall  commence,  and  thence  run  due  west  to  the  Pacific? 

But,  instead  of  being  in  lat.  42°  north,  the  source  of  the  Arkansas  is  in  lat.  39° 
north,  as  indisputably  ascertained  from  recent  explorations,  and  thus  an  interval  of 
three  degrees  occurs  between  the  two  points  named  in  the  above  treaty ! 

If  the  United  States  are  obligated  by  this  treaty  to  receive  the  42d  degree  as  their 
southern  boundary,  Mexico  is  equally  obligated  to  receive  the  parallel  from  the  source 
of  the  Arkansas  due  west  to  the  Pacific,  as  her  true  northern  limits  ;  thus,  a  territory 
of  eleven  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  nearly  one  hundred 
and  fortv  from  north  to  south,  is  left  unowned  by  either  party ! 


THE  BUFFALO-BERRY.  205 

The  landscape,  as  a  whole,  possesses  a  savage  wildness  peculiar  to  itself, 
and  bears  strong  indications  of  volcanic  action.  The  mountains  are  not 
so  high  as  those  of  other  parts,  but  are  far  more  forbidding  in  their  aspect. 
The  prevailing  rock  is  lava,  scoriated  basalt,  trap,  bituminous  limestone, 
and  calcareous  tufa. 

The  valley  of  Bear  river  affords  a  number  of  springs  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  various  mineral  properties,  which  cannot  fail  to  excite  the  curi- 
osity and  interest  of  the  traveller.  They  are  found  upon  the  left  bank  of 
the  stream,  a  short  distance  below  a  small  affluent  from  the  north. 

Two  of  them  are  situated  in  a  small  grove  of  cedars,  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  each  other. 

In  passing  their  vicinity  the  attention  of  the  traveller  is  at  once  arrested 
by  the  hissing  noise  they  emit ;  and  on  approaching  to  ascertain  the  cause, 
he  finds  two  circular-shaped  openings  in  the  surface,  several  feet  in  diame- 
ter, and  filled  with  transparent  fluid  in  a  state  of  incessant  effervescence, 
caused  by  the  action  of  subterranean  gases. 

The  water  of  the  one  he  finds  on  tasting  to  be  excellent  natural  soda,  and 
that  of  the  other,  slightly  acid  and  beer-like  ; — the  draught  will  prove  deli- 
cious and  somewhat  stimulating,  but,  if  repeated  too  freely,  it  is  said  to  pro- 
duce a  kind  of  giddiness  like  intoxication.  These  singular  natural  curios- 
ities are  known  among  the  trappers  as  the  Beer  and  Soda  springs,  names 
not  altogether  inappropriate. 

A  few  hundred  yards  below  these,  is  another  remarkable  curiosity,  called 
the  Steamboat  spring.  This  discharges  a  column  of  mineral  water  froui  a 
rock-formed  orifice,  accompanied  with  subterraneous  sounds  like  those  pro- 
duced by  a  high-pressure  steamboat. 

Besides  the  above-described,  there  are  a  number  of  others  in  this  vicinity 
of  equally  mineral  character,  as  well  as  several  hot  springs,  varying  in  tem- 
perature from  blood  to  that  of  extreme  boiling  heat. 

Bear  river  valley  contains  many  wide  spreads  of  most  excellent  land, 
.  susceptible  of  a  high  state  of  cultivation.     In  fertility  it  is  unsurpassed,  and 
varies  in  width  from  one  and  a  half  to  three  miles. 

The  stream  is  not  heavily  timbered,  but  the  scattering  groves  of  pine  and 
cedar  among  the  adjoining  mountains  partially  atone  for  any  apparent  defi- 
ciency. 

Towards  its  head,  the  hills  upon  either  side  are  less  rugged  and  barren, 
and  present  more  frequent  intervals  of  verdancy. 

I  noticed  a  large  number  of  fruit-bearing  shrubs  and  bushes,  including 
cherry,  service,  goose,  and  buffalo-berries,  (two  kinds,)  with  currants. 

The  bushes  of  the  buffalo-berry  were  not  as  yet  entirely  divested  of  thei 
delicious  burthen,  and  afforded  a  new  variety  of  that  fruit  hitherto  not  havii> 
come  under  my  observation. 

This  berry  is  about  the  size  of  and  similar  in  shape  to  the  common  currant. 
There  are  three  kinds, — the  white,  yellow,  and  red,  (shepherdia  argentia.) 

The  red  is  of  a  slightly  tartish  taste,  but  not  unpleasant ;  the  yellow  is 
somewhat  less  acid,  but  otherwise  similar  io  the  red  ;  the  white,  however, 
is  most  excellent  tasted,  and  possesses  a  delicious  sweetness  which  causes 
it  to  be  highly  relished. 

This  fruit  has  several  small  seeds  in  it,  like  those  of  the  whortleberry, 
and  grows  upon  a  bush  in  shape  and  size  quite  like  the  common  shrub-oak. 


206  FORT  HALL,  ETC. 


It  produces  in  such  immense  quantities,  that  the  parent  bush  is  not  unfre- 
quently  flattened  with  its  superincumbent  weight. 

The  grizzly  bear  delights  to  revel  among  the  thickets  of  this  his  favorite 
berry,  and  is  almost  certain  to  make  from  it  his  last  autumn  meal  ere  he  re- 
tires to  winter  quarters  and  commences  the  long  fast  that  follows. 

The  valley  of  Bear  river  presents  to  emigrants  many  advantages.  Pos- 
sessed not  only  of  a  rich  soil,  well  adapted  to  cultivation,  and  vast  mineral 
resources,  with  natural  curiosities  that  must  ever  make  it  a  central  point  of 
attraction,  but  situated  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  prospective  popula- 
tion of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  and  upon  the  the  direct  line  of  over-land  inter- 
course between  the  United  States,  California,  and  Oregon,  it  must  command 
for  its  future  inhabitants  a  sure  source  of  prosperity  and  wealth. 

There  is  little  doubt  of  its  eventually  becoming  the  most  important  sec- 
tion of  Southeastern  Oregon. 

In  descanting  upon  the  natural  curiosities  of  this  valley,  the  trappers  ac- 
companying me  spoke  of  a  spring  further  to  the  northward,  which  constantly 
emits  a  small  stream  of  mineral  tar,  from  the  mountain-side,  in  no  respect 
inferior  to  the  manufactured  article.  However,  I  am  not  certain  in  regard 
to  the  locality  of  this  interesting  phenomenon. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Fort  Hall ;  its  history,  and  locality. — Information  relative  to  Oregon. — Boundaries 
and  extent  of  the  territory. — Its  rivers  and  lakes,  with  a  concise  description  of  them 
severally. — Abundance  and  variety  of  fish  and  water-fowl. — Harbors  and  islands. — 
Oregon  as  a  whole  ;  its  mountains  and  geographical  divisions. — Eastern  Divison  ; 
its  wild  scenery,  valleys,  soil,  and  timber;  volcanic  ravages;  country  between 
Clarke's  river  and  the  Columbia. — North  of  the  Columbia ;  its  general  character. — 
Middle  Division ;  its  valleys,  prairies,  highlands,  and  forests. — Western  Division  ; 
a  beautiful  country  ;  extensive  valleys  of  extraordinary  fertility  ;  productive  plains  ; 
abundance  of  timber,  its  astonishing  size  and  variety. — A  brief  summary  of  facts. 

Our  journey  from  the  Uintah  to  Fort  Hall  occupied  twelve  days,  and  took 
us  a  distance  of  about  two  hundred  miles.  Most  of  this  time  the  weather 
continued  mild  and  pleasant ;  the  only  interval  of  inclemency  was  a  single 
bleak  and  cloudy  day,  succeeded  by  a  slight  fall  of  snow  during  the  night, 
which  the  bright  sunshine  of  the  ensuing  morning  dissipated  in  a  few  mo- 
ments. 

Along  the  entire  route  we  found  an  abundance  of  green  grass  at  sheltered 
places  in  the  valleys,  and  also  large  quantities  of  game,  especially  black- 
tailed  deer,  bear,  and  elk.  Bear  are  more  numerous  in  this  section  than  in 
any  other  I  am  acquainted  with. 

Port  Hall  is  located  upon  the  left  bank  of  Snake  river,  or  Lewis'  Fork  of 
the  Columbia,  in  a  rich  bottom  near  the  delta  formed  by  the  confluence  of 
the  Portneuf  with  that  stream,  in  lat.  43°  10f  30"  north,  long.  112°  20' 
54    west. 


PICTURE  OF  OREGON  AS  IT  IS.  207 

In  general  structure  it  corresponds  with  most  of  the  other  trading  estab- 
lishments in  the  country.  It  was  built  by  Capt.  Wythe  of  Boston,  in  1832, 
for  the  purpose  of  furnishing  trappers  with  their  needful  supplies  in  ex- 
change for  beaver  and  other  peltries,  and  also  to  command  the  trade  with 
the  Snakes.  Subsequently  it  was  transferred  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
in  whose  possession  it  has  since  remained. 

Mr.  Grant,  a  gentleman  distinguished  for  his  kindness  and  urbanity,  is  at 
present  in  charge,  and  has  some  sixty  Canadians  and  half-breeds  in  his  em- 
ploy. 

This  post  is  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  old  war-ground  between  the 
Blackfoot,  Snake,  and  Crow  Indians,  and  was  formerly  considered  a  very 
dangerous  locality  on  that  account.  Its  early  occupants  were  subject  to 
frequent  losses  from  the  hostile  incursions  of  the  former  of  these  tribes,  and 
on  two  or  three  occasions  came  very  near  being  burnt  out  *  by  their  un- 
sparing enemies. 

The  country  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Hall  affords  several  extensive 
valleys  upon  the  Snake  river  and  its  tributaries,  which  are  rich,  well  tim- 
timbered,  and  admirably  adapted  to  the  growth  of  grain  and  vegetables. 

The  adjoining  prairies  also,  to  some  extent,  possess  a  tolerable  soil,  and 
abound  in  a  choice  variety  of  grasses.  Back  from  the  valleys  and  plains, 
the  landscape  is  extremely  rugged  and  mountainous,  poorly  timbered,  and 
bears  the  character  of  general  sterility. 

My  stay  at  the  Fort  brought  me  in  contact  with  gentlemen  from  various 
parts  of  Oregon;  who  kindly  imparted  to  me  all  the  information  in  their 
possession  relative  to  the  nature  and  true  condition  of  this  interesting  and 
highly  important  section  of  our  national  domain.  With  the  data  thus  ob- 
tained, assisted  by  subsequent  personal  observation  and  intelligence  derived 
from  other  sources,  I  am  enabled  to  arrange  the  following  brief  outlines  of 
its  geography,  geology,  climate,  and  soil,  including  a  description  of  its  pro- 
ductions, inhabitants,  natural  advantages,  inducements  to  emigrants,  &c, 
which  the  reader  may  rely  upon  as  strictly  correct  in  every  essential  par- 
ticular. 

With  the  northern  extremity  of  Bear  river  valley,  the  traveller  enters  the 
southeastern  limits  of  Oregon  Territory.  By  referring  to  the  map 
it  will  be  seen  that  this  country  is  bounded  upon  the  north  f  by  the  British 
and  Russian  possessions,  east  by  the  Rocky  Mountains,  south  by  Upper 
California,  and  west  by  the  Pacific.  It  is  not  my  present  purpose  to  argue, 
or  endeavor  to  sustain,  the  claims  of  our  Government  to  the  whole  area  em- 
braced in  the  above ;  but  conceiving  the  matter  now  settled,  I  shall  proceed 
to  the  task  in  in  hand  without  further  preliminary. 

Oregon,  like  California,  is  possessed  of  many  important  rivers  and  har- 

■  *  A.  portion  of  the  Fort  was  formerly  constructed  of  wood ; — it  is  now  built  of 
"  adobies  "  like  other  trading  establishments  of  the  country. 

t  The  treaty  now  in  process  of  negotiation  with  Great  Britain,  relinquishes  to  that 
government  all  above  the  49th  deg.,  and  consequently  admits  its  claims  to  the  entire 
northern  boundary,  to  wit :  from  49°  to  the  Russian  possessions. 

18* 


208  ALL  ABOUT  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER. 


bors,  that,  considering  their  intimate  relation  to  the  general  interest  of  com- 
merce, seem  to  demand  our  first  attention. 

The 'Columbia  and  its  branches  water  almost  the  entire  territory,  and 
open  a  highway  from  the  ocean  to  the  lofty  mountain  ranges  which  form  its 
eastern  boundary.  This  river  heads  in  lat.  52°  north,  long.  119°  west  from 
Greenwich,  and,  after  pursuing  a  serpentine  course  for  fifteen  hundred  or 
two  thousand  miles,  finds  its  discharge  in  the  Pacific,  at  lat.  46°  north. 

One  hundred  and  twenty  miles  of  this  distance  are  navigable  for  ships 
of  the  largest  class,  but  the  remainder  of  its  course  is  interrupted  by  occa- 
sional rapids  and  falls,  that  render  frequent  portages  necessary. 

The  upper  and  lower  "  dalls"  and  "  cascades,"  present  the  most  serious 
impediments  to  navigation.  The  former  of  these,  situated  above  Clarke's 
Fork,  are  caused  by  the  passage  of  the  Columbia  through  immense  ledges, 
that  leave  huge  vertical  walls  of  basaltic  rock  upon  either  side,  and  com- 
press its  waters  to  a  narrow,  chasm-like  channel.  There,  dashing  and 
foaming  in  wild  fury,  the  torrent  rushes  past  its  lateral  dikes  with  frightful 
velocity. 

The  distance  between  these  two  "  dalls"  is  some  thirty  miles. 

The  "cascades"  lie  at  the  base  of  a  mountain  range  of  the  same  name, 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  Ocean.  Near  this  place  the  whole 
stream  is  plunged  over  a  precipice  of  fifty  feet  descent,  forming  a  sublime 
and  magnificent  spectacle. 

Between  the  dalls  and  cascades,  a  reach  of  high-lands,  formed  almost  en- 
tirely of  naked  basalt,  presents  another  barrier,  through  which  the  river 
forces  itself  by  a  tunnel-like  pass  for  ten  or  fifteen  miles,  leaving  vast  mural 
piles  upon  the  right  and  left,  that  attain  an  altitude  of  three  hundred  and 
fifty  or  four  hundred  feet. 

A  few  miles  above  the  junction  of  the  southern  and  middle  forks  of  the 
Columbia,  two  considerable  lakes  have  been  formed  by  the  compressure  of 
its  waters  among  the  adjoining  mountains. 

The  first  of  these  is  about  twenty  miles  long  and  six  broad,  shut  in  by 
high,  towering  hills,  covered  with  stately  pine  forests. 

Emerging  from  this,  the  river  urges  its  way  through  lofty  embankments 
of  volcanic  rock  for  some  five  miles  or  more,  when  a  second  lake  is  formed 
in  a  similar  manner,  which  is  about  twenty-five  miles  in  length  and  six  in 
width. 

Note. — Capt.  Fremont,  in  speaking  of  the  Columbia,  makes  use  of  the  following 
just  observations : 

"  The  Columbia  is  the  only  river  which  traverses  the  whole  breadth  of  the  country, 
breaking  through  all  the  ranges,  and  entering  into  the  sea.  Drawing  its  waters  from 
a  section  of  ten  degrees  of  latitude  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  are  collected 
into  one  stream  by  three  main  forks  (Lewis',  Clarke's,  and  the  North  Fork)  near  the 
centre  of  the  Oregon  valley,  this  great  river  thence  proceeds  by  a  single  channel  into 
the  sea,  while  its  three  forks  lead  each  to  a  pass  in  the  mountains,  which  opens  the 
way  into  the  interior  of  the  continent. 

"  This  fact,  in  reference  to  the  rivers  of  this  region,  gives  an  immense  value  to  the 
Columbia.  Its  mouth  is  the  only  inlet  and  outlet  to  and  from  the  sea ;  its  three  fork* 
lead  to  passes  in  the  mountains ;  it  is,  therefore,  the  only  line  of  communication  be- 
tween the  Pciciflc  and  the  interior  of  North  America;  and  all  operations  of  war  oi 
commerce,  of  national  or  social  intercourse,  must  be  conducted  upon  it." 


OTHER  RIVERS  OF  THE  TERRITORY.  209 

There  are  also  several  other  lakes,  of  greater  or  less  extent,  at  different 
points  along  its  course. 

Perhaps  no  river  in  the  world,  of  the  same  length,  affords  such  varied 
and  picturesque  scenery  as  does  the  Columbia. 

Its  lakes, tunnels,  cascades,  falls,  mountains,  rocky  embankments,  prairies, 
plains,  bottoms,  meadows,  and  islands,  disclose  an  agreeable  medley  of  wild 
romance,  solemn  grandeur,  and  pleasing  beauty,  far  surpassing  that  of  any 
other  country. 

During  its  course  it  receives  numerous  tributaries,  the  most  important  of 
which  are  the  Clarke,  Flat-bow,  Spokan,  Okanagan,  Snake,  Yakama,  Piscous, 
Entyatecoom,  Umatilla,  Quisnel,  John  Day,  D'Chute,  Cathlatates,  Walla- 
walla,  Wallammette,  and  Cawlitz. 

The  Clarke,  Snake,  and  Wallammette  rivers,  seem  to  call  for  more  than 
a  bare  allusion. 

The  former  of  these  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  lat.  46°  north,  and 
following  its  windings,  is  about  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  length.  A 
lake,  some  thirty  miles  long  and  eight  broad,  is  also  formed  in  its  course, 
about  one  hundred  miles  above  its  mouth.  During  its  windings  it  receives 
a  large  number  of  affluents,  which  unite  to  swell  the  volume  of  its  waters 
to  the  full  size  of  its  parent  stream. 

The  Snake,  or  Lewis'  Fork,  is  equally  important.  It  rises  in  lat.  42° 
north,  and,  pursuing  a  northwesterly  direction  for  five  hundred  miles,  is 
discharged  into  the  Columbia,  at  lat.  46°  north.  This  river  also  receives 
several  tributaries,  the  largest  of  which  are  the  Kooskooskie  and  Salmon. 

The  Wallamette  heads  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  in  Upper  California, 
near  lat.  41°  north,  and  bears  a  northerly  course  for  nearly  three  hundred 
and  fifty  miles.  One  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  of  this  distance  are 
navigable  for  boats  of  a  light  draught. 

Several  tributaries,  both  from  the  east  and  west,  unite  to  increase  its 
magnitude  and  enhance  its  importance. 

The  Umpqua,  which  is  the  next  river  worthy  of  notice  below  the  Colum- 
bia, has  its  source  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  near  lat.  43°  north,  and  run- 
ning westerly  for  almost  three  hundred  miles,  is  finally  discharged  into  the 
Pacific.     Some  forty  or  fifty  miles  of  this  distance  are  said  to  be  navigable. 

South  of  the  Umpqua  a  stream  of  nearly  equal  size  empties  into  the  Pa- 
cific, called  Rogue's  river.  This  also  rises  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  at 
lat.  42°  north,  and  is  said  to  be  navigable  for  boats  of  a  light  draught,  some 
seventy  miles  or  more. 

The  Chilkeelis  is  the  first  river  north  of  the  Columbia,  and  rises  in  the 
mountains,  near  lat.  48°  north.  Pursuing  a  westerly  course,  it  discharges 
itself  into  the  Pacific  at  Gray's  Harbor,  after  flowing  a  distance  of  about 
two  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

Fraser's  river  is  the  extreme  northern  one  of  Oregon.  It  heads  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  near  lat  54°  north,  and  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Georgia, 
at  lat  49°  north.  In  its  course  it  receives  several  large  tributaries,  and 
pursues  its  way  for  a  distance  of  about  four  hundred  miles,  eighty  of  which 
are  navigable. 

Besides  those  above  named,  there  are  several  other  streams,  of  less  mag- 
nitude, emptying  into  the  Pacific  at  various  points  along  its  coast,  all  of 


210  HARBORS    ETC. 

which,  as  the  country  becomes  settled,  will  contribute  to  the  facilities  of 
commerce  and  manufactures. 

The  rivers  of- Oregon,  in  the  abundance  and  quality  of  their  fish,  are 
unparalleled.  At  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  their  waters  are  completely 
alive  with  the  countless  myriads  that  swarm  them  to  their  very  sources. 

Even  the  small  streams  are  not  exempt  from  this  thronging  population. 
So  great  is  their  number  they  are  frequently  taken  by  the  hand ;  and,  with 
the  aid  of  a  net,  several  barrels  may  be  caught  at  a  single  haul.  It  re- 
quires but  little  effort  to  obtain  them,  and  large  quantities  are  annually 
shipped  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  various  other  points. 

Fish  are  undoubtedly  destined  to  furnish  an  important  item  in  the  future 
commerce  of  Oregon.  At  the  present  time  they  supply  the  principal  food 
of  its  inhabitants,  both  Indians  and  whites.  Among  the  different  varieties 
abounding  in  these  streams,  salmon  and  salmon  trout  claim  the  precedence, 
both  in  numbers  and  qualities. 

These  delicious  fish  attain  a  size  seldom  surpassed,  and  are  found  in 
every  accessible  river  and  creek.  The  bays,  harbors,  and  mouths  of  rivers 
are  also  thronged  with  cod,  herring,  sturgeon,  and  occasionally  whales, 
while  vast  quantities  of  oysters,  clams,  lobsters,  &c,  may  be  obtained  along 
the  coast. 

Next  to  fish,  in  connection  with  the  rivers,  the  extraordinary  number  of 
aquatic  birds  arrests  the  attention.  These  consist  of  geese,  brants,  ducks 
(of  three  or  four  varieties,)  swans,  pelicans,  and  gulls. 

At  certain  seasons,  they  throng  the  rivers,  creeks,  lakes,  and  ponds,  at 
different  parts,  in  innumerable  multitudes,  and  not  only  keep  the  waters  in 
constant  turmoil  from  their  nautic  exercises  and  sports,  but  fill  the  air  with 
the  wild  clamor  of  their  incessant  quackings.  An  expert  sportsman  may 
kill  hundreds  of  them  in  a  few  hours. 

So  abundant  are  they  that  their  feathers  may  be  obtained  of  the  Indians 
in  any  requisite  quantity,  for  a  trifling  consideration — in  all  respects  equal, 
for  bedding,  to  those  procured  from  domesticated  geese  and  ducks. 

In  regard  to  harbors,  the  natural  advantages  of  Oregon  are  not  equal  to 
those  of  California ;  though,  as  the  country  becomes  settled,  the  ingenuity 
of  man  will  speedily  atone  for  these  apparent  deficiencies ;  and  if  she  has 
not  the  matchless  basin  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  she  has  other  locali- 
ties upon  her  sea- board  that,  with  a  small  expenditure  of  money  and  effort, 
may  be  made  secure  and  adapted  to  all  her  commercial  requirements. 

It  is  much  to  be  regretted,  however,  that  the  Columbia  affords  not  an 
easy  and  secure  entrance  for  ships  from  the  Ocean,  as  this  will  undoubted- 
ly become  the  most  important  point  of  the  whole  coast. 

At  present,  the  mouth  of  this  river,  between  Points  Adams  and  Hancock, 
is  partially  blocked  up  by  large  sand-bars,  deposited  by  the  current,  and 
maintained  in  their  places  through  the  repulsive  action  of  the  sea-waves. 

How  far  these  impediments  may  operate  to  the  future  detriment  of  com- 
merce, remains  to  be  seen.  Unless  some  remedy  should  be  adopted,  the 
harbor  of  this  great  embryo  depot  of  Western  trade  will  continue  to  oppose 
a  difficult  entrance. 

The  estuaries  of  the  Umpqua  and  Rogue  rivers  are  more  difficult  of  ac- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  DIVISIONS.  211 

cess  than  the  Columbia.  It  is  even  said,  that  there  is  not  a  good  harbor  on 
the  coast  of  Oregon  below  lat.  46°  north.  Above  this  parallel  there  are 
several,  not  only  easy  of  access  but  secure  of  anchorage ;  the  principal  of 
which  are  those  of  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca  and  the  Gulf  of  Georgia. 
The  islands  of  Vancouvre  and  Queen  Charlotte*  also  possess  a  number  of 
excellent  harbors. 

These  islands  are  large,  well  timbered,  and  generally  fertile.  Though, 
like  the  mainland,  quite  broken  and  hilly,  they  embrace  many  beautiful 
plains  and  lovely  valleys,  abounding  with  game,  and  coursed  by  ample 
streams  of  fresh  water.  Vancouvre's  Island  is  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles 
long  by  fifty  in  width,  and  Queen  Charlotte's  one  hundred  and  forty  by 
twenty-eight.  In  addition  to  the  above  named,  there  are  a  number  of  small- 
er islands  near  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca — more  important  on  account 
of  their  fisheries  than  the  quality  of  their  soil. 

The  whole  extent  of  the  sea-coast,  connected  with  the  territory,  (i.  e.. 
from  California  to  the  Russian  possessions,)  is  about  one  thousand  miles, 
besides  that  of  its  various  islands.  Reckoning  from  the  above  data,  the 
area  included  within  its  limits  is  not  far  from  nine  hundred  and  two  thou- 
sand, two  hundred  and  fifty  square  miles. 

To  speak  of  this  vast  country  in  toto,  we  could  give  no  general  character 
either  in  regard  to  its  climate,  soil,  or  productions,  possessed,  as  it  is,  of 
every  diversity,  from  the  piercing  frosts  of  perpetual  winter,  to  the  smiling 
verdancy  of  unfading  spring — from  the  dwarfish  herbage  of  the  arctic  re- 
gions, to  the  generous  fruits  of  warmer  zones — and  from  the  barren  steri- 
lity of  a  Lybian  desert,  to  the  exuberant  fecundity  of  earth's  choicest  gar- 
den-spots. 

However,  from  the  numerous  peaks  that  rear  their  cloud-capped  heads  in 
almost  every  direction,  and  the  continuous  ridges  intersecting  it  from  side 
to  side  and  from  end  to  end,  we  might  with  safety  pronounce  it  mountainous. 

The  Rocky  Mountains,  forming  its  eastern  boundary,  branch  off  wester- 
ly and  northwesterly  at  various  points,  and,  in  connection  with  other  ridges, 
beline  the  whole  country.  It  is  my  present  purpose  merely  to  classify  some 
the  more  extensive  of  these  ranges,  and  note  their  locality,  as  auxiliary  to 
a  more  accurate  and  comprehensive  disposal  of  the  leading  subject  before 
the  reader. 

The  Blue  Mountain  chain  commences  not  far  from  45°  30'  north  lati- 
tude, and  bears  a  southerly  course,  till  it  passes  into  California  and  unites 
with  the  intersecting  ridges  of  that  province.  It  runs  nearly  parallel  with 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  at  an  interval  varying  from  one  hundred  to  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles,  forming  the  Eastern  Division  of  Oregon. 

The  Cascade  chain  (before  noticed,  in  connection  with  California)  com- 
mences in  the  Russian  possessions,  and  pursues  a  southerly  course  through 
both  countries,  till  it  finally  becomes  lost  in  the  sea-girt  isthmus  of  the  Lower 
Province.  It  runs  parallel  with  the  coast,  at  a  distance  varying  from  one 
hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  defines  the  Western  and  Mid- 
dle Divisions  of  Oregon. 

*  By  the  terms  of  the  proposed  treaty,  the  islands  of  Vancouvre  and  Queen  Char- 
lotte are  transferred  to  Great  Britain,  leaving  only  a  few  diminutive  and  comparative- 
ly valueless  ports  in  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca  and  in  islets  south  of  Vancouvre, 
within  the  limits  of  the  If.  S.  territory. 


212  A  BEAUTY  SPOT. 

The  country  north  of  the  Columbia  is  also  traversed  by  numerous  branch- 
es and  spurs  of  the  Rocky  and  Cascade  Mountains,  many  of  them  present- 
ing lofty  peaks,  covered  with  never-melting  snow  and  ice. 

The  mountain  ranges  before  described,  have  many  summits  towering  far 
above  the  snow-line.  They  are  generally  less  sterile  than  the  main  chain 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and,  amid  their  snow-clad  tops  and  denuded  emi- 
nences, present  alternate  spreads  of  high  table  land  and  rolling  prairie, 
clothed  with  vegetation,  and  dense  forests  of  pine,  cedar,  fir,  and  oak,  or  open- 
ing valleys  arrayed  in  all  the  enchantment  of  vernal  loveliness. 

The  Eastern,  or  Southeasterly  Division  of  Oregon,  partakes  of  a  greater 
variety  of  wild  and  savage  scenery,  intermixed  with  beauty  and  desolation, 
than  any  other  section  in  the  whole  territory. 

The  valleys  of  Bear  river  and  those  parts  contiguous  to  Fort  Hall,  have 
already  been  described  on  a  preceding  page,  and  all  their  varied  attrac- 
tions fully  descanted  upon.  Besides  these,  there  are  other  valleys  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  South  Pass,  upon  Little  and  Big  Sandy,  and  the  New 
Forks  of  Green  river,  that  claim  a  passing  notice. 

The  valleys  last  referred  to  are  of  variable  width  and  possess  a  fertile 
soil,  adapted  to  either  grazing  or  agricultural  purposes,  and  assume  an 
additional  importance  from  their  situation  in  reference  to  the  grand  routes 
from  the  United  States  to  Oregon  and  California.  They  are  capable  of 
sustaining  a  small  population  with  peculiar  advantage,  were  it  not  for 
the  troubles  that  might  be  anticipated  from  the  hostile  incursions  of  the 
BJackfeet  and  Sioux. 

Below  Fort  Hall,  the  valleys  of  Snake,  or  Lewis'  river,  are  somewhat 
limited,  but  very  fertile,  though  enclosed  for  the  most  part  by  denuded 
and  sterile  mountains.  In  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Boise,  on  the  bank  of 
Lewis'  Fork,  are  several  rich  and  extensive  plains  and  valleys,  more  or 
less  adapted  to  cultivation. 

The  Kooskooskie  and  Salmon  rivers,  also,  present  some  fine  bottoms. 
Another  beautiful  valley  is  situated  upon  Powder  river,  a  considerable 
creek,  about  forty  miles  below  Fort  Boise.  It  is  large  and  very  fertile, 
but  lacks  a  sufficiency  of  timber  without  a  resort  to  the  dense  pine  forests 
of  the  neighboring  hills. 

The  next  section  that  attracts  the  traveller's  attention  as  he  proceeds 
towards  the  Columbia,  is  a  favored  spot  known  as  le  Grand  Rond,  bound- 
ed on  all  sides  by  mountains,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Blue  range.  This 
locality  is  nearly  circular,  and  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, well  watered  and  possesses  a  soil  of  matchless  fertility.* 

*  The  following  analysis  of  the  soil  of  this  valley,  as  furnished  by  Capt.  Fremont, 
will  attest  its  superior  quality  : 

Silicia        ...  -       70,  81 

Alumnia         -------  10,  97 

Lime  and  magnesia           -                       -           -           -  1,  38 

Oxade  of  iron               -            -            -            -            -            -  2,  21 

Vegetable  matter  partly  decomposed        -           -           -  8,  16 

Water  and  looss           -            -            -            -           •            -  5,  46 

Phosphate  of  lime              -                        -           -           -  1,  01 

100,  00 


NORTHERN  PART.  213 


Timber  of  the  best  kind  may  be  procured,  in  any  quantity,  from  the  ad- 
joining mountains,  and,  to  a  limited  extent,  from  the  valley. 

Trappers  speak  of  the  Grand  Rond  with  an  enthusiasm  which  is  cordi- 
ally responded  to  by  all  who  have  hitherto  visited  it.  So  far  as  soil  and 
climate  are  concerned,  a  better  section  of  country  than  this  is  rarely 
found. 

Southeast  from  the  place  last  described,  sixty  miles  or  more,  lies  a  long 
stretch  of  desolate  country  which  bears  a  strikingly  volcanic  appearance. 
This  region  is  thickly  paved  with  vast  piles  of  lava  and  igneous  rock, 
strown  about  in  confused  fragments,  as  if  the  mountains  had  been  rent 
asunder  and  dashed  in  horrid  medley  upon  the  adjoining  plains,  and  earth, 
itself,  had  undergone  all  the  indescribable  contorsions  of  more  than 
agony, — now  opening  in  frightful  chasms, — now  vibrating  with  unheard- 
of  violence,  oversetting  hills  and  rooting  them  from  their  foundations  by 
the  impetuosity  of  its  motion,  or  elevating  half  vertically,  the  immense 
layers  of  subterranean  rock  forming  the  valves  of  distorted  fissures,  and 
depressing  the  opposing  ones  in  frightful  contrast, — in  haste  to  complete 
the  picture  of  destruction  by  an  imposing  array  of  wild  and  savage  scenery. 
Numerous  boiling  springs  are  also  found  among  these  wide-spread  heaps 
of  ruined  nature  whose  waters  are  frequently  so  hot  that  meat  may  be 
cooked  in  a  very  few  minutes  by  submersion  in  them. 

Several  streams  trace  their  way  through  this  region,  affording  occasional 
bottoms  of  fertile  soil  and  luxuriant  vegetation,  that  smile  with  bewitching 
enchantment  upon  the  relentless  havoc  surrounding  them. 

Upon  Clarke's  river  and  its  tributaries,  as  well  as  the  numerous  lakes 
adjacent  to  them,  there  are  large  quantities  of  excellent  land,  well  adapted 
to  agricultural  and  grazing  purposes.  The  hills,  too,  are  generally  studded 
with  dense  forests  of  pine  and  fir,  some  of  them  of  gigantic  growth,  while 
the  intervning  plateaux  and  high  prairies  present  frequent  intervals  of 
lusty  grasses. 

The  same  may  be  said,  though  in  a  more  restricted  sense,  of  most  of  the 
country  lying  between  Clarke's  river  and  the  Columbia. 

The  streams  of  water  and  lakes  are  most  of  them  skirted  with  bottoms 
and  valleys  of  greater  or  less  extent,  tolerably  well  timbered,  while  the 
neighboring  hills  afford  frequent  groves  of  heavy  pines,  diversified  with 
openings  of  grass-clad  prairies  or  of  denuded  barrenness. 

Many  interesting  localities  lie  along  the  Columbia,  above  the  confluence 
of  Clarke's  river,  as  well  as  upon  the  several  tributaries  finding  their  way 
into  it.  A  tract  of  country  circumjacent  to  the  Lower  Lake  possesses  a 
rich  soil,  with  other  advantages,  which  in  due  time  will  command  the  atten- 
tion of  emigrants. 

The  section  lying  still  north  of  this  is  but  little  better  than  a  barren 
waste  of  frost  and  snow,  with  now  and  then  choice  spots  of  rank  vegeta- 
tion and  rich  floral  beauty,  shut  up  in  their  stern  recesses,  in  wonderful 
contrast  with  the  savage  sublimity  and  wild  disorder  of  the  masses  of  naked 
rock  that  surround  them. 

Frasier's  river  has  an  extensive  valley  of  excellent  and  well  timbered 
land,  skirting  it  in  variable  width,  from  mouth  to  source.  The  same  may 
be  said  of  many  of  its  tributaries.  The  Chilkeelis,  also,  possesses  many 
choice  spots. 


214  THE  WESTERN  DIVISION. 

But,  as  a  general  thing,  that  portion  of  country  north  of  the  Columbia 
is  the  most  worthless  part  of  Oregon. 

A  vast  share  of  it  is  mere  naked  rock  or  deserts  of  ice  and  snow,  with 
now  and  then  dense  forests  of  pine,  cedar,  and  fir.  There  are,  compara- 
tively, few  arable  prairies  ;  and  not  more  than  one  half  of  the  whole  extent 
can  be  turned  to  any  useful  purpose.  Perhaps  one  sixth  of  it  is  suscepti- 
ble of  cultivation.  In  fact,  the  only  localities  worthy  of  mention  are  the 
valleys  scattered  among  the  Claset  and  Cascade  Mountains,  and  along  the 
different  rivers  and  creeks. 

The  cause  of  this  general  sterility  is  more  to  be  attributed  to  the  severity 
of  the  climate,  consequent  upon  a  high  northern  latitude,  combined  with  the 
broken  and  mountainous  character  of  the  country,  than  to  any  great  natural 
deficiency  of  soil.     Of  course  it  can  never  become  thickly  populated. 

Its  timber,  fisheries,  and  facilities  for  manufactures,  stock-raising,  and  the 
growth  of  wool,  embrace  its  greatest  inducements  to  emigrants  ;  though, 
in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  its  extensive  fur  trade  and  commodious  har- 
bors, with  other  kindred  advantages,  should  not  be  overlooked. 

We  now  come  to  the  Middle  Division,  or  that  section  south  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, between  the  Blue  and  Cascade  Mountains. 

In  this  division  of  Oregon  the  face  of  the  country  is  very  much  diversi- 
fied. As  a  whole,  it  presents  a  continued  series  of  conical  hills,  huge  mas- 
ses of  rock,  and  undulating  prairies,  intermixed  with  lofty,  cloud-capped 
peaks,  shooting  transversely  from  the  ridges  that  form  its  eastern  and  west- 
ern boundaries.  These  mountains  are  usually  clothed  with  rank  vegeta- 
tion, and  frequently  present  stately  forests  of  valuable  timber,  particularly 
the  Blue  range. 

It  also  contains  many  extensive  valleys  of  great  fertility,  situated  among 
its  mountains  and  upon  the  John  Day,  Quisnell,  Umatilla,  D 'Chute,  and 
Wallawalla  rivers,  and  their  numerous  affluents. 

The  southern  extremity  likewise  affords  many  fertile  and  extensive  val- 
leys, but  it  is  rather  sparsely  timbered.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
Columbia,  the  land  is  sandy  and  barren,  though  back  from  the  river,  the 
hills  are  tolerably  rich  and  coated  with  heavy  pine  forests. 

Nearly  the  whole  of  this  section  may  be  considered  available  for  agricul- 
ture and  stock-raising. 

The  Western  Division  next  commands  our  attention.  Below  the  Cas- 
cades, the  country  contiguous  to  the  Columbia  presents  a  vast  extent  of 
thickly  timbered  and  extremely  fertile  bottom  land,  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  wide,  interspersed  with  frequent  openings  of  lusty  vegetation. 

The  forests  of  this  section  afford  some  of  the  largest  and  most  beautiful 
pine  and  fir  trees  in  the  world.  Its  valleys,  plains,  and  hills  are  likewise 
possessed  of  a  most  excellent  soil,  adapted  to  every  practicable  use. 

Above  this,  and  bordering  upon  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca  are  also 
large  tracts  of  fine  land,  well  watered,  timbered,  and  fertile. 

Southward,  towards  the  confines  of  California,  the  Umpqua  and  Rogue 
rivers  claim  several  very  extensive  and  fertile  valleys  and  bottom  lands. 
Upon  the  former  of  these  are  sai,d  to  be  two,  one  of  which  is  forty  miles  in 
length  by  ten  in  width,  and  the  other  seventy  by  fifteen  ; — upon  the  latter, 
is  one  eighty  miles  long,  and  varying  from  fifteen  to  fifty  in  width. 


MAGNIFICENT  FOREST  TREES.  215 

Besides  the  above  mentioned,  there  are  numerous  other  valleys,  all  of 
which  are  well  timbered  and  of  unparalleled  fertility. 

No  country  in  the  world  affords  a  better  soil,  or  a  more  romantic  scenery. 
The  mountains  bounding  them  rise  in  stately  grandeur,  oftentimes  far  above 
the  clouds,  to  converse  with  the  relentless  snows  of  successive  ages, — 
now  presenting  their  nude  sides,  paved  with  dark  masses  of  frowning  rocks, 
or  proud  forests  of  evergreen,  verdant  lawns,  flowery  dales,  and  sterile 
wastes,  to  overlook  the  perennial  beauty  and  matchless  fecundity  at  their 
feet, — while  the  lesser  eminences  with  their  deep  ravines,  o'erhanging 
cliffs,  and  shadowy  recesses,  tell  the  place  where  the  storm-winds  recruit 
their  forces  and  the  zephyrs  creep  in  to  die. 

There  are  also  large  valleys,  of  equally  fertile  soil,  upon  the  head  waters 
of  the  Tlameth  river,  near  the  southern  boundary,  well  worth  the  attention 
of  emigrants. 

The  most  interesting  portion  of  the  Western  Division,  however,  is  that 
bordering  upon  the  Wallammette  and  its  affluents.  The  valley  of  this  river 
is  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long  by  thirty-five  broad.  The  soil  is  a  deep 
alluvion,  of  extraordinary  fertility. 

It  is  not  only  well  watered,  but  well  timbered,  and  produces  all  the  vege- 
tables, fruits,  and  grasses  indigenous  to  the  country,  with  astonishing  pro- 
fuseness.  No  region  was  ever  better  adapted  to  agricultural  or  grazing 
purposes. 

The  Fualitine  Plains,  adjoining  this  beautiful  expanse  of  fertility  upon 
the  left,  towards  the  Columbia,  embrace  an  area  of  forty-five  miles  in  length 
by  fifteen  in  breadth,  well  watered  and  amply  timbered,  with  a  soil  in  all 
respects  equal. 

The  Klackamus,  Putin,  Fualitine,  Yamhill,  and  other  rivers,  are  all  of 
them  skirted  by  beautiful  and  fertile  valleys  of  greater  or  less  extent,  while 
the  adjacent  hills  and  prairies  afford  not  only  frequent  forests  of  excellent 
timber,  but  generally  a  very  good  soil. 

The  landscape  of  this  vicinity,  though  not,  strictly  speaking,  hilly,  is 
highly  indulating,  but  quite  productive  in  grass  and  herbage. 

The  Cawlitz  river,  which  empties  into  the  Columbia  a  short  distance  below 
the  Wallammette,  has  several  rich  bottoms,  and  waters  a  large  extent  of 
country,  admirably  adapted  to  stock-raising  and  agriculture. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Wallammette  river  is  an  island  some  fifteen  miles 
in  length  by  nearly  the  same  distance  in  breadth,  called  Wappato;  it  is  of 
a  deep  alluvial  soil,  formed  from  sedimentary  deposites  and  decayed  vegeta- 
ble substances,  and  is  very  rich  and  densely  timbered. 

The  country  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  and  for  some  ten  or  fifteen 
miles  interior,  is  sandy  and  sterile, — a  fact  much  to  be  regretted,  as  from 
its  peculiar  locality  this  point  must  necessarily  become  the  site  of  a  vastly 
important  commercial  emporium,  vieing  in  population,  splendor,  and  opu- 
lence, the  time-grown  cities  of  more  eastern  climes. 

The  stately  forests  of  pine  and  fir,  in  the  Western  Division  of  Oregon  _> 
have  for  a  long  time  challenged  the  admiration  of  the  world,  and  it  is 
strongly  doubted  whether  the  chosen  veterans  of  foreign  woods  can  produce 
a  rival  to  some  few  specimens  of  the  proud  giants  of  its  soil. 

These  not  unfrequently  tower  toa  height  of  two  hundred  feet,  and  even 


216  A  GLANCE  AT  THE  WHOLE. 

more, — leaving  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
feet  clear  of  limb,  with  scarcely  a  curve  in  the  entire  length. 

One  of  them,  standing  near  Fort  George  on  the  Columbia  river,  is  said 
to  measure  forty-seven  feet  in  circumference,  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
in  altitude,  and  two  hundred  and  sixty-five  leet  clear  of  limb ;  another,  upon 
the  Umpqua  river,  is  reported  even  larger ,  and  yet  another,  in  the  same 
vicinity,  very  nearly  equals  it  in  size. 

Timber  of  this  kind  affords  the  choicest  arhcle  for  lumber,  which  beaifs  a 
very  high  price  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  in  various  parts  of  Mexico, 
and  will  no  doubt  become  a  staple  commodity  in  the  commerce  of  Oregon ; 
while  tjie  immense  forests  of  pine,  fir,  and  oak,  rearing  their  stately  heads 
in  thick  array,  must  prove  a  sure  source  of  wealth  to  its  future  inhabi- 
tants. 

The  principal  kinds  of  wood  indigenous  to  tht  country  are  white-oak, 
live-oak,  maple,  ash,  pine,  fir,  cedar,  hemlock,  spruce,  cotton  wood,  aspen, 
and  cherry. 

Live-oak  is  found  chiefly  in  the  southern  part,  and,  in  quality,  stands 
foremost  among  the  denizens  of  the  forest  for  ship-building.  Several  other 
species  of  oak  are  more  or  less  abundant  in  various  parts. 

In  review  of  the  subjects  occupying  the  preceding  pages,  we  may  pre- 
sent the  following  summary : 

Nearly  one-fifth  of  the  entire  territory  is  timbered ;  three-eighths  of  it 
may  be  successfully  cultivated,  (embracing  the  richest  lands  in  the  Federal 
Domain.)  and  two-thirds  of  it  may  afford  pasturage  for  cattle,  horses, 
and  sheep. 

It  is  generally  better  watered  and  much  better  timbered  than  California  ; 
and,  though  its  harbors  are  inferior  in  regard  to  safety  and  ease  of  access, 
Oregon  possesses  other  advantages,  aside  from  soil  and  climate,  com- 
pensating, in  some  measure,  for  these  obvious  deficiencies,  and  which  com- 
bine to  render  it  a  most  eligible  point  of  emigration. 


217 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Climate  of  Oregon ;  its  variableness ;  its  rains ;  a  southern  climate  m  a  northern 
latitude. — Productiveness  ;  grain,  fruits,  and  flowers,  wild  and  cultivated.— Geo- 
logical characteristics. — Soils  and  prevailing  rock. — Minerals,  &c. — Variety  of 
game. — Wolves. — Horses,  and  other  domestic  animals. — Population,  white  and  na- 
tives ;  Indian  tribes,  their  character  and  condition. — Missionary  stations,  and  their 
improvements. — Present  trade  of  Oregon. — Posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Compai  y. — 
Settlements. — Oregon  City,  its  situation  and  advantages;  about  Linnton;  about 
Wallammette  valley,  Fualitine  Plains,  and  Umpqua  river ;  Vancouvre,  and  its  su- 
perior advantages. — Kindness  of  Hudson  Bay  Company  to  settlers. 

The  next  which  seems  to  demand  our  notice,  in  due  order,  is  the  climate 
of  this  interesting  country. 

We  need  only  bear  in  mind  the  geographical  position  and  diversified 
character  of  Oregon,  to  satisfy  ourselves  of  the  true  merits  of  the  subject 
now  before  us.  A  mountainous  country  like  this  must  necessarily  em- 
brace every  variety  of  climate,  from  that  of  the  ice-bound  coasts  and  ever- 
scathing  frosts  of  the  polar  regions,  to  the  burning  heat  of  the  equator, — 
from  the  mild  atmosphere  of  Italian  skies,  to  the  genial  temperature  which 
paints  the  wild-flowers  in  their  primeval  beauty,  while  month  succeeding 
month  doles  out  the  year,  nor  feels  nor  knows  the  chill -breath  of  winter. 

A  short  jaunt  at  any  time  translates  the  traveller,  at  his  own  option, 
to  regions  of  winter,  spring,  summer,  or  fall,  and  spreads  before  him  all  the 
varied  beauties  and  deformities  of  either. 

As  a  general  thing,  however,  the  winters  of  Oregon  are  much  more  tem- 
perate than  those  of  countries  in  the  same  latitude  bordering  upon  the 
Atlantic — a  fact  which  may  be  attributed  to  the  usual  prevalence  of  wes- 
terly winds  at  that  season. 

These  winds,  on  passing  the  mountains  and  traversing  the  vast  extent 
of  snowy  prairie  and  open  land  in  their  course,  become  vested  with  a  chill- 
ing severity  unknown  to  its  incipiency,  when,  from  the  warm  bosom  of  the 
broad  Pacific,  they  first  waft  themselves  o'er  the  blooming  valleys,  smiling 
plains,  grass-clad  hills,  and  mountains  garbed  in  stately  forests,  commingled 
with  stern  desolation,  to  lavish  upon  all  these  varied  scenes  the  soft  blan- 
dishments of  the  Indies,  and  engender  the  interesting  phenomenon  of  a  south- 
ern climate  in  a  high  northern  latitude. 

The  country  contiguous  to  Frasier's  river,  and  even  below  it  for  some 
distance,  is  usually  visited  with  long  and  severe  winters,  and  enjoys  com- 
paratively but  a  short  interval  of  genial  weather  during  the  spring  and 
summer  months. 

The  valleys,  however,  not  unfrequently  afford  exceptions  to  this  remark, 
when  favorably  located  in  regard  to  the  wind  and  sun.  In  this  section  il 
seldom  rains,  a  circumstance  causing  an  unproductive  and  arid  soil. 


218  CLIMATE  OF  OREGON. 

The  Eastern  Division  is,  perhaps,  more  variable  in  regard  to  tempera- 
ture than  any  other  portion  of  Oregon.  Its  valleys  are  usually  possessed 
of  a  mild  and  delightful  climate,  so  much  so  that  stock  will  subsist  the 
entire  winter  without  being  fed  or  housed. 

The  plains  and  high  prairies  present  a  longer  interval  of  inclement 
weather,  and  the  snow  continues  on  the  ground  for  a  much  greater  length 
of  time,  than  in  the  low-lands. 

Some  particular  localities  are  subject  to  very  sudden  changes,  and  not 
unfrequently  experience  the  warm  breath  of  summer  with  the  chill  blasts 
of  fresh-born  winter  during  the  short  lapse  of  a  single  day  and  night. 

In  reference  to  the  high  mountains,  it  is  sufficient  to  remark,  that  with 
them  winter  is  a  season  too  congenial  not  to  be  felt  in  all  its  rigors,  to 
the  entire  extent  of  its  duration.  The  diversity  of  temperature  in  these 
parts  depends  mostly  upon  the  altitude.  The  lower  benches  experiencing 
a  mild  atmosphere  even  in  the  severest  weather,  permit  the  snow  to  re- 
main only  for  a  short  interval  succeeding  its  fall,  and  woo  the  willing 
spring  ;  while  the  higher  ones  treasure  up  each  descending  flake  to  nour- 
ish the  scathing  blasts  that  leap  from  the  mountain-tops,  fresh-cradled 
in  the  lap  of  winter. 

Notwithstanding  these  apparent  disadvantages,  the  Eastern  Division 
may  be  regarded  as  universally  healthy.  The  purity  of  the  atmosphere, 
and  its  absence  from  noxious  exhalations  and  disease-engendering  efflu- 
via, undoubtedly  contribute  the  prime  cause  in  producing  a  result  so 
favorable. 

Rains  are  not  usual  to  this  part  in  the  summer  months,  nor  even  in 
the  winter  and  spring  are  they  common  to  any  great  extent.  The  snows 
of  winter,  together  with  the  rains  of  that  season  and  autumn,  and  the 
occasional  dews  of  summer,  in  most  cases,  afford  a  sufficient  moisture  to  the 
low-lands  for  agricultural  purposes. 

That  section  situated  between  the  Blue  and  Cascade  Mountains,  known 
as  the  Middle  Division,  is  said  to  possess,  comparatively,  a  much  milder 
and  less  variable  climate. 

The  winters  are  usually  open  and  of  short  duration,  snow  lying  upon 
the  ground,  in  the  valleys,  rarely  exceeding  four  days  in  succession,  and 
vegetation,  in  some  instances,  remains  green  the  entire  season.  The  prai- 
ries, too,  are  generally  covered  only  for  a  short  time. 

The  heat  of  summer  lacks  that  oppressiveness  so  common  to  most 
countries.  In  regard  to  the  health  of  this  section,  we  may  correctly  apply 
the  observations  made  relative  to  the  Eastern  Division.  A  country  situ- 
ated like  the  one  now  forming  the  subject  of  our  remarks,  cannot  be  oth- 
erwise than  healthy,  as  a  general  thing. 

The  snow  of  winter  and  the  rains  of  spring  and  autumn,  coupled  with 
the  light  dews  of  summer,  furnish  all  the  moisture  usual  to  the  soil, 
which  the  moderate  heat  of  the  latter  season  renders  sufficient  for  the 
growth  of  vegetation  and  the  production  of  grain  and  other  crops. 

The  Western  Division  possesses  not  only  a  soil  but  a  climate  more  fa- 
vorable to  vegetation  than  any  other  portion  of  Oregon.  In  the  southern 
part  it  seldom  snows,  and  the  weather  is  so  mild,  that  the  grass  continues 
green  and  flourishing  the  entire  year.  Water  never  freezes,  unless  it 
be  in  some  elevated  pool  or  lake. 


PRODUCTIONS  OF  DIFFERENT  SECTIONS.  219 


The  absence  of  sufficient  rains  and  dews,  however,  during  the  summer 
months  at  some  points,  renders  an  occasional  resort  to  irrigation  necessary 
for  the  production  of  corn,  potatoes,  and  articles  of  a  like  nature. 

Two  crops  of  some  kinds  of  produce  may  be  raised  with  success  in  a 
single  year. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Wallammette,  the  winters  are  only  a  trifle  colder. 
Running  water  seldom  freezes.  Snow  never  falls  to  exceed  the  depth 
of  a  few  inches,  and  disappears  in  a  very  short  time  succeeding. 

Vegetation  in  the  valleys,  and  even  upon  the  plains,  to  some  extent, 
remains  green  year  in  and  year  out.  Of  course  no  better  climate  could 
be  selected  for  stock-raising. 

These  remarks  may  be  applied  with  equal  propriety  to  the  other  por- 
tions of  the  Western  Division  south  of  the  Columbia  and  in  its  immediate 
vicinity.  The  country  further  north,  for  a  considerable  distance,  posses- 
ses a  climate  almost  as  favorable.  The  snows  of  winter,  however,  are 
usually  more  frequent  and  less  transitory  in  their  continuance. 

The  cold  season  is  confined  almost  exclusively  to  the  three  winter  months. 
The  heat  of  summer  is  moderate  and  agreeable,  generally  ranging  at  62° 
Fahrenheit,  above  zero,  in  its  mean  temperature. 

The  wet  season  of  the  Western  Division  usually  occurs  from  October  to 
March  of  each  year,  inclusive  ;  at  other  times  rain  seldom  falls.  During 
this  season  it  descends  in  gentle  showers,  or  in  the  shape  of  mist,  at  inter- 
vals, for  about  one  half  of  the  time.  The  moisture  received  into  the  earth 
meanwhile,  together  with  the  nightly  dews  and  other  favorable  agencies 
during  the  summer  months,  renders  the  soil  adapted  to  cultivation. 

Back  from  the  valleys  and  bottoms,  the  atmosphere  is  quite  wTholesome 
and  salubrious.  Fevers  are  seldom  known,  and  pulmonary  complaints  are 
equally  rare. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Columbia,  intermittent  fevers  are  not  uncommon, 
though  by  no  means  as  bad  as  in  some  parts  of  our  frontier  States. 

Next  in  the  order  before  us  come  the  various  productions  which  may 
be,  and  are,  successfully  cultivated  in  the  different  sections  of  this  part  of 
our  national  domain. 

The  soil  and  climate  of  the  Eastern  Division  have  been  sufficiently  test- 
ed to  know  their  capacity  for  producing  nearly,  if  not  quite,  all  the  various 
grains,  vegetables,  and  fruits  usually  grown  in  our  Northern  and  Middle 
States.  A  great  variety  of  wild  fruits  and  vegetables  grow  spontaneously, 
in  different  parts,  and  in  great  abundance. 

The  soil  and  climate,  as  a  whole,  seem  better  adapted  to  the  culture  of 
fruits  and  grains,  than  vegetables  ;  and  perhaps  we  might  add,  for  the  rais- 
ing of  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep,  than  agriculture  ;  though  the  latter  obser- 
vation is  not  to  be  so  construed  as  to  affirm  that  farming  may  not  be  suc- 
cessfully and  profitably  prosecuted  in  many  parts. 

The  Northern  Division,  or  that  portion  of  Oregon  lying  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  Columbia,  in  the  vicinity  and  south  of  Frasier's  river,  and 
upon  the  Chilkeelis,  being  much  colder  and  more  sterile,  must  necessarily 
be  regarded  in  a  less  favorable  light  than  the  country  referred  to  in  the 
preceding  paragraph.  But,  little  is  known  as  to  its  products  or  the  capa- 
cities of  its  soil  and  climate ;  yet,  it  is  said  that  some  particular  kinds  of 

19* 


220  PREVAILING  ROCK. 

fruit  are  indigenous  to  this  region,  and  it  is  generally  supposed  that  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  buckwheat,  flax,  and  other  articles  of  like  nature,  might  be 
raised  within  it.     Of  course,  these  remarks  apply  only  to  the  valleys. 

The  Middle  Division  affords  a  finer  soil  and  a  more  favorable  climate 
than  the  Eastern  ;  but,  in  regard  to  productions,  it  is  much  the  same.  All 
the  northern  fruits,  grains,  and  vegetables,  may  be  produced  in  great  abun- 
dance, with  the  exception  of  corn — the  land  being  generally  too  dry  and 
too  much  subject  to  unseasonable  frosts ;  corn,  however,  has  been  success- 
fully cultivated  on  the  Wallawalla. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  wild  fruits  found  here,  among  which  are 
included  cherries,  with  larb,  buffal  ,  goose,  and  service  berries,  and  cur- 
rants, plums,  and  grapes,  together  with  several  other  species  not  recollect- 
ed, as  well  as  vegetables  and  roots. 

The  Western  Division  not  only  maintains  its  pre-eminence  in  relation  to 
soil  and  climate,  but  stands  equally  conspicuous  in  the  variety  and  abun- 
dance of  its  productions.  It  is  thought,  and  not  without  reason,  that  cotton, 
sugar-cane,  and  various  other  productions  of  a  warm  and  even  tropical 
climate  might  here  be  raised  without  difficulty. 

When  the  ground  is  in  a  suitable  condition,  the  avarage  crop  of  wheat 
is  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  bushels  to  the  acre.  Vast  quantities  of  it  are 
annually  produced  by  settlers  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  A  surplus 
of  one  hundred  thousand  bushels  is  reported  to  have  been  grown,  in  the 
region  adjoining  the  Wallammette,  during  the  summer  of  1844. 

The  Hudson  Bay  Company,  at  Fort  Vancouvre,  have  several  very  ex- 
tensive farms  under  improvement,  upon  which  they  raise  nearly  every  va- 
riety of  grain  and  vegetables,  with  flattering  success. 

In  the  garden  of  McLaughlin,  the  chief  factor  of  this  company,  are  found 
almost  every  species  of  fruits  and  flowers  indigenous  to  this  country  and 
to  foreign  soils  of  the  same  latitude,  with  several  varieties  produced  only 
in  warm  climates. 

We  barely  allude  to  the  above  facts,  in  order  to  prove  the  adaptation  of 
WTestern  Oregon  to  agricultural  pursuits.  The  data  relative  to  its  extraor- 
dinary facilities  for  rearing  countless  herds  of  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep, 
have  already  been  placed  before  the  reader,  and  need  not  here  a  repetition. 

The  components  of  the  soils  of  Oregon  are  equally  varied  in  character, 
according  to  their  situation.  The  bottoms  are  usually  of  a  deep,  sandy 
alluvion,  intermixed  with  vegetable  and  organic  matter.  The  valleys  are 
of  a  heavy  loam,  enriched  by  the  debris  and  other  fertilizing  properties 
borne  from  the  high  grounds  by  the  annual  rains,  together  with  the  con- 
stant accumulation  of  decayed  herbage  and  grass  so  lavishly  bestrown  at 
each  returning  season. 

The  prairies  are  possessed  of  either  a  light  sandy  superfice,  or  a  mixture 
of  gravel  and  stiff  clay.  The  superstratum  of  the  hills  and  mountains 
varies  from  wastes  of  naked  sand,  sun-baked  clay,  and  spreads  of  denuded 
rock,  to  a  thin  vegetable  mould,  and  a  light  marly  loam  of  greater  or  less 
fecundity. 

The  rock  of  this  territory  also  presents  many  different  specimens ;  the 
prominent  classifications,  however,  are  volcanic,  viz  :  basalt,  (columnar  and 
scoriated,)  trap,  lava,  pumicestone,  limestone  (fossiliferous,  bituminous, 
and  earthy,)  and  mica  slate,  with  sandstone,  puddingstone,  granular  quartz, 


POPULATION  OF  THE  TERRITORY.  221 

calcareous  tufa,  and  agglomerated  boulders  of  various  kinds,  particularly 
in  the  Eastern  Division.  The  varieties  of  some  parts  present  strong  char- 
acteristics of  the  oolite  formation.  The  hills  contain  many  excellent  quar- 
ries for  the  structure  of  buildings  or  other  useful  purposes. 

Hitherto  but  little  investigation  has  been  had  relative  to  the  mineral  re- 
sources of  Oregon ;  though  sufficient  is  known  to  warrant  the  statement, 
that  copper, lead,  iron,  coal,  salt,  soda,  sulphur,  nitre,  and  alum,  are  abundant 
in  some  parts  ;  and,  from  the  nature  of  the  country,  we  may  safely  infer  that 
yet  more  valuable  metals  are  waiting  to  reward  with  their  hidden  treasures 
the  researches  of  man. 

Game,  in  the  Eastern  and  Middle  Divisions,  is  not  generally  plentiful ; 
yet,  in  places,  there  are  an  abundance  of  deer,  elk,  antelope,  bear,  wolves, 
and  foxes ; — buffalo  are  also  found  occasionally  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  In  the  Northern  Division,  moose,  deer,  elk,  bear,  foxes,  and 
wolves,  are  the  varieties  most  common.  Game  is  more  abundant  in  the 
Western  than  in  the  other  Divisions,  and  is  nearly  of  the  same  kind. 

Ducks,  geese,  brants,  pheasants,  partridges,  &c,  are  common  throughout 
the  whole  territory. 

Wolves  are  very  numerous  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  settlements,  and 
prove  a  great  source  of  annoyance  to  the  inhabitants  by  preying  upon  their 
cattle  and  other  stock.  These  wolves  consist  of  three  kinds, — the  black, 
gray,  and  prairie  wolf,  of  which,  as  in  California,  the  black  wolf  is  the  largest 
and  most  ferocious. 

As  a  grazing  country,  the  available  lands  of  the  three  divisions  of  Oregon, 
south  of  the  Columbia  and  the  one  immediately  north  of  that  river,  are  little 
inferior,  if,  indeed,  not  fully  equal,  to  the  far-famed  meadows  and  lawns  of 
California. 

Horses  are  reared  in  vast  numbers  by  the  Indians,  among  whom  it  is  not 
uncommon  to  find  a  single  individual  owning  three  or  four  hundred  head. 
Select  horses  may  be  bought  at  prices  ranging  from  twelve  to  twenty  dol- 
lars each. 

These  animals  are  generally  stout  and  hardy,  capable  of  enduring  a  vast 
amount  of  fatigue,  and  are  but  little  inferior  in  point  of  size  to  our  American 
nags. 

Large  herds  of  horses  are  also  raised  by  the  settlers,  and  at  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company's  establishments. 

Latterly,  cattle,  hogs,  and  sheep,  are  beginning  to  receive  the  attention 
of  the  farming  community,  and,  without  doubt,  soon  will  become  immensely 
numerous.  It  needs  only  the  operation  of  time  to  render  Oregon  as  fa- 
mous for  its  countless  herds,  as  for  the  abundance  and  variety  of  its  pro- 
ductions. 

The  entire  population  of  the  territory  at  this  time,  may  be  estimated  at 
thirty-five  thousand,  of  which  about  seven  thousand  are  whites  and  half- 
breeds,  and  the  balance  Indians. 

The  Indians  principally  consist  of  the  following  tribes:  the  Snakes, 
Blackfeet,  Flatheads,  Nesperces,  Bonarks,  Cyuses,  Wallawallas,  Chinooks, 
Shatchets,  Chalams,  Killamucs,  Squamishes,  Clasets,  Tonandos,  Klacka- 
mus,  Clatsup,  Umpquas,  Klackatats,  Kallapuyas,Tlamaths,  and  Chilkeelis. 


222  MISSIONARY  STATIONS. 

The  Blackfeet,  though  included  among  the  Oregon  tribes,  properly  belong 
to  that  portion  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  contiguous  to  the  head  waters  of 
the  Missouri.  They  make  occasional  irruptions  into  the  country  occupied 
by  the  Flatheads,  Snakes,  and  Nesperces,  and  for  this  reason  are  included 
in  the  above  list. 

The  Tlameths  and  two  or  three  other  inferior  tribes  in  the  neighborhood 
of  California  and  north  of  the  Columbia  river  may  be  considered  trouble- 
some and  rather  ill-disposed ;  but  not  dangerous,  unless  it  be  in  cases 
where  they  iiave  a  very  decided  advantage. 

The  Indians  of  this  country  are  less  warlike  than  those  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  far  less  dangerous,  even  as  enemies.  They  may  be  con- 
sidered, on  the  whole,  as  friendly  to  the  whites,  and  quite  susceptible  of 
civilization.  They  are  tolerably  industrious,  and  ready  at  all  times  to  work 
for  the  settlers  at  a  trifling  compensation. 

Many  of  them  cultivate  the  ground  and  raise  corn,  potatoes,  beans,  and 
melons, — but  fish,  horses,  and  game,  as  a  general  thing,  furnish  their  prin- 
cipal food.  As  an  evidence  of  their  quiet  disposition,  they  rarely  go  to  war, 
and  are  usually  found  at  or  near  the  several  places  claimed  and  occupied 
by  them  individually. 

The  Nesperces  are,  perhaps,  farther  advanced  in  civilization  than  any 
other  tribe.  Many  of  them  (and  some  of  other  tribes)  are  beginning  to 
live  after  the  manner  of  the  whites,  and  the  philanthropic  efforts  of  Chris- 
tian missionaries  in  their  behalf  have  been  attended  with  great  success. 

There  are  eight  of  more  missionary  stations  in  Oregon,  belonging  as  fol- 
lows :  to  the  Presbyterians,  the  Methodists,  and  the  Roman  Catholics. 

Four  of  these  are  situated  between  the  Blue  and  Cascade  Mountains,  viz  : 
one  near  the  Dalls  one  at  Waiilatpu  on  the  Wallawalla,  one  at  Tshimakain, 
and  one  at  Clear  Water. 

The  mission  at  Waiilatpu  is  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Whitman,  and 
has  a  flouring  mill  and  a  very  considerable  farm  connected  with  it,  upon 
which  large  quantities  of  grain  and  vegetables  are  annually  raised,  and  also 
numerous  herds  of  cattle  and  horses.  The  station  near  the  Dalls,  with 
the  exception  of  a  mill,  is  said  to  be  but  little  behind  that  of  Waiilatpu  in 
point  of  prosperity. 

The  remaining  four  are  in  the  Western  Division. 

The  most  important  of  these  are  situated  as  follows :  one  at  the  Wallam- 
mette  Falls,  about  twenty-five  miles  below  the  Columbia,  and  the  other  in 
the  Wallammette  valley,  some  forty  or  fifty  miles  farther  south. 

Both  of  the  above  belong  to  the  Methodists,  and  may  be  considered  rich. 

There  are  two  large  farms  and  a  store  connected  with  the  station  in  the 
Wallammette  valley,  and  also  large  herds  of  cattle,  horses,  and  hogs  ; — it  is 
said  to  drive  quite  a  profitable  trade  with  the  Indians  and  settlers  in  the  line 
of  dry  goods  and  groceries. 

The  station  at  the  Wallammette  Falls  has  also  a  store,  and  carries  on  a 
small  business  by  way  of  merchandize. 

The  two  other  stations  are  south  and  west  of  the  last  named,  but  have, 
as  yet,  no  very  extensive  improvements  in  connection  with  them. 

The  Methodists  have  a  press  at  one  of  their  stations  in  Oregon,  which  is 
employed  in  printing  religious  books  for  the  benefit  of  the  Indians. 


DIFFERENT  SETTLEMENTS.  223 

In  addition  to  the  different  stations  above  alluded  to,  the  Catholics  have 
several  agents  and  teachers  in  this  territory,  who  labor  with  great  zeal  and 
earnestness  to  make  proselytes  to  their  own  peculiar  notions.  The  number 
and  locality  of  these  agents  I  have  not  the  necessary  information  to  state. 
They  were,  not  long  since,  under  the  superintendance  of  one  Father  De 
Smit,  a  Jesuit  priest,  and  have  exerted  considerable  influence  among  the 
Indian  tribes. 

Nearly  the  entire  trade  of  Oregon,  at  the  present  time,  is  in  the  hands  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  from  whom  dry  goods  and  groceries  may  be  ob- 
tained by  the  settlers  at  less  than  the  common  price  in  the  United  States  ; 
this,  as  a  necessary  consequence,  precludes  all  opposition.  The  principal 
exports  (raised  at  the  stations  or  received  by  way  of  barter)  are  flour,  fish, 
butter,  cheese,  lumber,  masts,  spars,  furs,  and  skins. 

The  Forts,  or  trading  establishments,  are  eighteen  in  all,  and  have  a  large 
number  of  hands  employed  about  them,  in  conducting  the  fur  trade  and 
laboring  upon  the  farms  and  in  the  workshops  and  mills. 

Each  of  these  posts  presents  a  miniature  town  by  itself,  whose  busy  pop- 
ulace pursue  most  of  the  varied  avocations  incident  to  the  more  densely 
inhabited  localities  of  civilized  countries. 

We  will  not  occupy  the  reader's  time  in  an  extended  description  of  them 
severally,  but  rest  content  by  simply  giving  their  names.  The  first  post 
belonging  to  this  company,  upon  the  route  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  is 
Fort  Hall ;  the  next,  Fort  Walla  walla ;  then,  Fort  Vancouvre,  and  Fort 
George. 

The  others  are  situated  at  different  points,  and  are  known  as  follows : 
Colville,  Okanagan,  Alexandria,  Barbine,  Klamloops,  St.  James,  Chilcothin, 
Simpson,  McLaughlin,  Langley,  Nisqually,  Cawlitz,  and  Umpqua;  of  which 
eight  are  located  in  or  above  lat.  49°  norih. 

The  principal  settlements,  disconnected  from  the  trading  establishments 
and  different  missionary  stations,  at  present,  are  upon  the  Umpqua  and 
Wallammette  rivers,  on  the  Fualitine  Plains,  and  near^  Fort  Vancouvre. 
These  settlements  are  represented  as  being  in  a  very  flourishing  condition, 
and  rapidly  increasing  in  population  and  wealth. 

At  the  Wallammette  Falls,  a  town  has  been  regularly  laid  out  called 
Oregon  City,  which,  in  the  year  1844,  numbered  a  hundred  or  more 
houses ;  among  them  was  a  church,  with  several  stores  and  mills. 

At  this  place  the  temporary  legislature,  already  instituted  by  the  set- 
tlers for  mutual  benefit  in  the  absence  of  all  other  legitimate  jurisdiction, 
holds  its  regular  sessions.  A  mayor  was  elected  in  the  spring  of  1845; 
and  recently  a  printing  press  and  materials  have  been  procured  from  New 
York  for  the  purpose  of  publishing  the  territorial  laws,  with  such  other 
documents  and  papers  as  the  interests  of  the  community  may  require. 

This  embryo  city,  situated  as  it  is  in  a  place  so  admirable  in  regard  to 
agriculture,  commerce,  and  manufactures,  possesses  many  superior  advan- 
tages in  point  of  locality. 

The  falls  of  the  Wallammette  are  thirty  feet  perpendicular,  and  afford 
abundant  water  privileges  for  mills  and  factories, — two  important  rivers, 
the  Klackamus  and  Fualitine,  find  their  discharge  near  it,  while  below  is 
presented  an  uninterrupted  navigation  to  the  Ocean j  and  above  it  boats  may 


22 1  KINDNESS  OF  THE  H.  B.  COMPANY. 


ascend  for  a  distance  of  one  hundred  miles  or  more.  The  country  con- 
tigous  is  unsurpassed  in  fertility,  and  will  undoubtedly  soon  acquire  a 
dense  population. 

Another  town, "called  Linnton,  has  recently  been  commenced  upon  the 
south  bank  of  the  Columbia,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Wallammette  river,  and 
bids  fair  to  become  of  some  importance. 

The  settlements  in  the  valley  above,  and  at  the  Fualitine  Plains,  are  scat- 
tered like  those  of  the  farming  sections  of  our  Western  States ; — the 
same  observation  may  also  be  applied  in  reference  to  those  upon  the  Ump- 
qua  river. 

The  settlement  at  Vancouvre  is  more  compact,  and  assumes  the  air  of 
a  flourishing  village.  It  is  near  the  falls  of  the  Columbia,  at  the  head  of 
ship  navigation,  and  is  made  the  great  commercial  depot  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  for  the  articles  required  in  their  trade. 

Connected  with  the  Fort  is  an  extensive  flouring  mill,  and  also  a  saw 
mill,  which  is  said  to  do  a  very  active  and  lucrative  business. 

The  number  of  buildings  at  Vancouvre  is  not  far  from  sixty.  The  site 
is  a  most  admirable  one  for  some  future  emporium  of  trade  and  manufac- 
tures. Its  water  privileges  are  almost  without  limits,  while  its  other  advan- 
tages are  equally  inviting. 

The  geographical  condition  of  the  country  is  such  that,  as  it  becomes 
settled,  an  enormous  amount  of  commercial  interest  must  necessarily  con- 
centrate here  ;  and,  doubtless,  a  more  favorable  locality  for  a  city  could  not 
be  selected  upon  the  Columbia.  It  is  destined  to  command  almost  the 
entire  trade  of  Eastern  and  Middle  Oregon. 

The  agents  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  at  present  are  of  great  advan- 
tage to  emigrants.  They  extend  to  them  every  reasonable  assistance  by 
selling  goods  and  necessaries  on  credit  at  very  low  prices,  and  receiving 
their  various  products  in  payment  upon  most  favorable  terms.  They  fur- 
nish seed-corn,  wheat,  potatoes,  and  other  articles  of  like  nature,  to  the  set- 
tlers, to  be  returned  in  kind  at  the  end  of  the  year,  with  a  small  additional 
amount  by  way  of  interest. 

This  company  is  equally  accommodating  in  other  respects.  It  affords 
employment  to  numbers  at  a  fair  compensation,  and  supplies  them  with 
cattle,  hogs,  horses,  and  implements  of  agriculture  for  their  farms.  Its 
agents  and  factors  seem  much  disposed  to  encourage  the  influx  of  emi- 
grants, and  are  never  backward  in  evincing  a  friendly  disposition  by  their 
acts. 


225 


CHAPTEK   XXVII. 

The  manufacturing  facilities  of  Oregon. — Commercial  and  agricultural  advantages 
reviewed. — Rail  Road  to  the  Pacific. — Route,  mode  of  travelling,  and  requisite 
equipments  for  emigrants. — Importance  of  Oregon  to  the  United  States. — Incident 
in  the  early  liistory  of  Fort  Hall. — Why  the  Blackfeet  are  hostile,  and  bright 
spots  in  their  character. — Mild  weather.— Leave  for  the  Platte. — Journey  to  the 
Yampah,  and  sketch  of  the  intermediate  country. — New  Park. — Head  of  Grand 
river. — The  landscape. — Different  routes  to  Fort  Lancaster. — Old  Park. 

Perhaps  no  country  is  possessed  of  greater  manufacturing  facilities 
than  Oregon.  Its  numberless  watercourses,  with  their  frequent  falls  and 
rapids,  upon  every  side,  point  out  the  sites  for  mills  and  factories,  while 
the  adjoining  forests  and  hills  produce  the  timber  for  their  construction, 
and  the  metal  for  their  machinery  ;  and  the  plains  and  valleys,  the  food  for 
their  operatives,  and  raw  materials  for  their  fabrics.  The  ships  of  all  na- 
tions await  as  their  carriers,  and  render  accessible  the  best  markets  of  the 
world. 

A  large  portion  of  the  sterile  and  otherwise  valueless  lands  of  the  terri- 
tory might  be  turned  to  good  account  in  the  growth  of  wool,  and  the  valleys 
and  bottoms  would  easily  yield  exhaustless  supplies  of  flax  and  hemp.  The 
southwest  displays  her  cotton  fields,  and  the  plains  and  hills  hold  out  their 
rich  stores  of  timber  and  minerals ;  the  busy  operatives  and  thrice  effec- 
tive machinery  of  the  flourishing  establishments,  as  yet  scarcely  hidden 
from  view  by  the  thin  veil  of  futurity,  would  achieve  the  transformation  of 
these  varied  products  into  broadcloths,  linens,  calicoes,  and  other  auxilia- 
ries of  comfort  and  utility ;  while  California,  with  the  other  provinces  of 
Mexico,  the  western  Republics  of  South  America,  the  islands  of  the  Paci- 
fic, the  Northwestern  Coast,  and  the  numerous  Indian  tribes  of  the  interior, 
impatient  to  gaze  upon  the  evidences  of  creative  skill,  even  now  stand  their 
willing  purchasers. 

With  such  advantages  before  her,  who  might  not  augur  well  for  the  fu- 
ture pre-eminence  of  Oregon. 

But,  in  other  respects,  the  prospect  is  still  more  flattering.  Her  exten- 
sive plains,  valleys,  and  bottoms,  need  no  long  lapse  of  time  to  transform 
them  into  smiling  fields  ;  her  prairies  and  hills  will  then  become  thronged 
with  countless  herds  of  cattle  and  flocks  of  sheep,  and  the  beef,  pork,  and 
wool  of  the  stock-grower,  the  butter  and  cheese  of  the  dairyman,  with  all 
the  surplus  of  the  farmer,  will  find  an  inviting  market  at  the  populous 
manufacturing  towns  and  commercial  cities  that  will  have  sprung  up  close 
around  him,  nor  need  he  look  elsewhere  for  a  more  lucrative  disposal. 

An  interchange  of  commodities  with  China,  Japan,  South  America,  tho 
East  Indies,  and  the  Polynesian  and  Australian  islands,  will  pour  ths 
wealth  of  nations  into  her  lap,  and  swell  the  opulence  of  her  citizens. 

A  continuous  rail-road,  from  the  Mississippi  and  the  great  lakes  across 


226  EQUIPMENT  FOR  EMIGRANTS. 

the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  falls  of  the  Columbia,  (a  project  quite  practi 
cable,  and  even  now  seriously  contemplated,)  will  open  a  new  channel  for 
commerce,  and  then  our  merchantmen  and  whalers,  instead  of  performing 
a  dangerous  homeward-bound  voyage  of  twelve  thousand  miles,  by  doubling 
the  southern  extremity  of  Africa,  or  that  of  the  American  continent,  will 
discharge  their  cargoes  at  the  ports  of  Oregon  for  a  re-shipment  to  every 
part  of  the  Union,  and  thus  unite  their  aid  in  the  magic  work  of  up-build- 
lng  the  Great  West. 

It  is  then  that  the  mighty  resources  of  our  national  confederacy  will  be- 
gin more  fully  to  develop  themselves,  and  exhibit  to  an  admiring  world  the 
giant  strides  of  civilization  and  improvement,  when  liberty  is  their  birth- 
right, and  freemen  are  their  nursing  fathers.  It  needs  no  prophetic  eye  to 
foresee  all  this,  nor  the  effort  of  centuries  to  transform  this  rough  sketch  of 
fancy  into  a  more  than  sober  reality. 

The  over-land  route,  from  Independence,  Mo.,  to  Fort  Hall,  affords  a 
good  waggon-road  ;  but  that  from  Fort  Hall  to  Vancouvre  is  generally  con- 
sidered impassable  for  other  than  pack-animals.  It  is  said,  however,  that 
a  new  route  has  recently  been  discovered,  by  which  waggons  may  be  taken, 
without  much  difficulty,  the  entire  distance.  Should  this  report  prove  true, 
the  emigrant  may  convey  everything  needed  for  his  comfort  during  the 
long  journey  before  him. 

Emigrants  should  never  go  in  companies  exceeding  one  hundred  and 
fifty  or  two  hundred  persons.  The  reason  for  this  is  obvious, — they 
will  proceed  more  harmoniously  ;  there  will  be  less  difficulty  in  obtaining 
food  for  their  animals;  less  delays  en  route;  a  better  opportunity  for  the 
procurement  of  provisions  by  hunting,  and  the  number  is  amply  sufficient 
for  mutual  defence. 

From  my  own  experience  and  observation,  I  would  advise  the  use  of 
pack-mules  or  horses  altogether,  instead  of  waggons.  One  pack-horse, 
suitably  laden,  would  convey  an  ample  supply  of  provisions  and  other  ne- 
cessaries for  two  individuals,  if  recruited  by  occasional  levies  upon  the 
game  that,  in  many  cases,  throng  their  course. 

A  company  thus  equiped,  can  travel  with  far  greater  expedition  and 
even  more  comfortably. 

In  case  of  sickness,  a  litter  might  easily  be  constructed  for  the  convey- 
ance of  the  invalid  by  affixing  to  a  horse  two  light  poles,  some  twelve  or 
fifteen  feet  in  length,  like  the  shafts  of  a  wagon,  the  smaller  extremities 
being  fastened  to  the  saddle  and  the  larger  ones  left  to  drag  upon  the  ground, 
while  two  short  pieces  placed  transversely  upon  them,  astern  the  horse, 
present  the  framework  for  a  bed  in  which  the  sufferer  may  repose  or  lie 
at  his  ease,  with  as  much  quiet  as  the  tender  object  of  a  mother's  care  in 
its  infantile  cradle. 

A  company  acting  upon  the  above  suggestions  (numbering  say  two 
hundred)  should  employ  an  efficient  pilot,  with  a  commandant  and  six- 
teen skilful  hunters. 

Strict  regulations  for  its  government  must  also  be  adopted  and  en- 
forced. Each  individual  should  be  furnished  with  a  good  riding  horse  or  a 
mule,  a  good  percussion  rifle,  (bore  thirty  or  thirty-five  balls  per  lb.,)  am- 


DlPORTAiNCE  OF  OREGON.  227 

munition  sufficient  for  five  hundred  rounds,  and  a  butcher-knife,  with  pis- 
tols and  the  requisites  for  procuring  fire. 

The  company  should  be  divided  into  messes  of  six  each,  and  one  hunt- 
er and  his  assistant  should  be  assigned  to  every  two  messes.  Each  mess 
should  be  provided  with  three  pack-mules,  exclusively  for  the  transporta- 
tion of  its  baggage  and  provision,  and  at  least  one  loose  animal  for  extra 
service. 

It  should  be  further  furnished  with  two  camp-kettles,  a  tomahawk,  a 
large  tin  mess-pan,  and  a  tin-cup  and  plate  for  each  of  its  number. 

A  light  tent  might  also  be  taken  if  deemed  necessary  ;  though  such  an 
article  is  of  little  use.  A  robe  and  a  blanket  for  bedding,  four  shirts  and  a 
single  change  of  clothes  are  as  much  baggage  as  any  individual  should 
think  of  taking  for  his  own  use.  By  these  means  his  movements  will  be 
free  and  unincumbered,  while  the  whole  company  pursues  its  way  with 
ease  and  rapidity. 

On  reaching  his  destination  the  emigrant  may  procure  everything  in  the 
line  of  dry  goods,  groceries,  and  the  implements  of  husbandry,  at  less 
prices  than  in  the  States  ;  hence  the  folly  of  burthening  himself  with  extra 
baggage  for  a  long  and  tiresome  journey. 

The  immense  importance  of  Oregon  to  the  United  States  is  doubtless  ap- 
parent to  every  one.  The  facts  upon  which  this  inference  is  based,  may 
be  briefly  presented  as  follows : 

First.  By  the  occupation  of  this  country  we  shall  secure  to  our  own 
citizens  the  best  trade  of  the  whole  world. 

Second.  We  shall  preclude  the  dangerous  supremacy  of  foreign  powers 
upon  our  western  frontier,  and  place  our  relations  with  the  intermediate 
Indian  tribes  upon  a  safer  and  more  permanent  footing. 

Third.  We  shall  retain  to  the  Union  a  vast  territory,  unexcelled  in 
climate,  rich  in  soil,  and  exhaustless  in  its  various  resources ;  and  thus 
lay  open  for  the  general  welfare  new  channels  for  commerce  and  fresh 
fields  for  enterprise. 

Fourth.  We  shall  (in  the  event  of  the  proposed  rail  road)  greatly  en- 
hance the  prosperity  and  wealth  of  the  Western  States. 

Fifth,  We  shall  prevent  the  annual  sacrifice  of  an  immense  amount  of 
life  and  property  in  the  navigation  of  a  dangerous  sea,  for  a  distance  of 
some  twelve  thousand  miles. 

Sixth.  We  shall  afford  to  our  whalemen  and  ships  engaged  in  the 
China  and  East  India  trade  ports  for  supplies  and  repairs,  and  thus  save  to 
ourselves  the  yearly  amounts  now  paid  to  foreign  nations. 

Seventh.  We  stand  in  actual  need  of  some  point  upon  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific  as  a  rendezvous  for  our  navy. 

There  are  many  other  weighty  reasons  that  might  be  adduced  in  support 
of  this  inference,  but  why  should  we  further  review  the  subject  ?  A  can- 
did perusal  of  the  preceding  pages  will  have  suggested  them  to  the  read- 
er's mind  without  greater  amplification  on  our  part. 

In  conclusion  we  need  only  to  add,  lime  will  usher  forth  the  embryo 
greatness  and  glory  of  Oregon ;  but  whether  that  greatness  shall  increase  the 
strength,  or  that  glory  commingle-with  the  glowing  lustre  of  our  Federal 
Union,  while  she  figures  as  one  in  the  proud  family  of  States,  or  whether 

20 


228  DAUNTLESS  REPUBLICANS. 

they,  discarded  by  the  fostering  hand  of  maternal  care,  «&hall  assume  the 
energy  of  a  giant's  power  and  shine  with  the  brightness  of  innate 
effulgence  as  a  distinct  nation,  depends  much  upon  the  prompt  and  judi- 
cious action  of  our  government  upon  this  momentous  subject. 

During  our  stay  at  Fort  Hall  an  incident  connected  with  its  early  histo- 
ry was  narrated  to  me,  which,  as  it  tends  much  to  illustrate  the  bold  daring 
and  spirit  of  inbred  republicanism  possessed  by  the  mass  of  trapping  parties 
frequenting  the  mountains,  I  am  tempted  to  transcribe. 

Soon  after  this  post  came  into  the  possession  of  its  present  owners,  sev- 
eral squads,  on  returning  from  their  regular  hunts,  rendezvoused  in  its  vi- 
cinity. According  to  the  custom  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  on  such 
occasions,  the  British  flag  was  hoisted  in  honor  of  the  event.  Thereupon 
the  proud  mountaineers  took  umbrage,  and  forthwith  sent  a  deputation  to 
solicit  of  the  commandant  its  removal ;  and,  in  case  he  should  prove  un- 
willing to  comply,  politely  requesting  that,  at  .east,  the  American  flag  might 
be  permitted  a  place  by  its  side.  Both  of  which  propositions  were  per- 
emptorily refused. 

Another  deputation  was  then  sent  announcing  that,  unless  the  British 
flag  should  be  taken  down  and  the  stars  and  stripes  raised  in  its  place  with- 
in two  hours,  they  would  take  it  down  by  force,  if  necessary.  To  this  was 
returned  an  answer  of  surly  defiance. 

At  the  expiration  of  the  time  named  the  resolute  trappers,  mustering  en 
masse,  appeared  before  the  Fort,  under  arms,  and  demanded  its  immediate 
surrender. 

The  gates  had  already  been  closed,  and  the  summons  was  anwered  by  a 
shot  from  the  bastion.  Several  shots  were  forthwith  exchanged,  but  without 
much  damage  upon  either  side  ;  the  trappers  directing  their  aim  principally 
at  the  British  flag,  while  the  garrison,  feeling  ill-disposed  to  shoot  down 
their  own  friends  in  honor  of  a  few  yards  of  parti-colored  bunting,  elevated 
their  pieces  and  discharged  them  into  the  air. 

The  result  was  that  the  assailants  soon  forced  an  entrance,  took  down 
and  tore  in  pieces  the  hated  flag,  and  mounted  that  of  their  own  country  in 
its  stead,  amid  deafening  huzzas  and  successive  rounds  of  riflery. 

The  commandant  and  his  sub-cronies,  retreating  to  a  room,  barricaded 
the  entrance,  when  the  trappers  promptly  demanded  their  surrender  upon  the 
following  terms  : 

1st.  The  American  flag  shall  occupy  its  proper  place  hereafter. 
2d.  The  commandant  shall  treat  his  captors  to  the  best  liquors  in  his 
possession. 

3d.  Unless  the  offenders  comply  with  these  conditions,  the  captors  will 
consider  Fort  Hall  and  its  contents  as  lawful  plunder  and  act  accordingly. 
After  a  short  parley  the  besieged  agreed  to  a  capitulation.  In  compli- 
ance with  the  second  article  of  the  terms,  a  barrel  of  whiskey,  with  sugar 
to  match,  was  rolled  into  the  yard,  where  the  head  was  knocked  out,  and 
the  short  but  bloodless  campaign  ended  in  wild  frolicking,  as  toast  after 
toast  was  drunk  in  fancied  honor  of  the  American  flag,  and  round  after 
round  of  responsive  cheers  told  who  were  they  that  stood  ever  ready  to 
proudly  hail  it  and  rally  beneath  its  broad  folds. 


UNIVERSITY    I 

OF  J 

THE  BLACKFEET.  229 

At  the  time  of  our  visit,  there  were  some  sixty  men  connected  with  this 
establishment.  These  consisted  principally  of  half-breeds  and  Canadian 
French,  among  whom  were  several  who  had  seen  service  in  the  unre- 
lenting war  between  the  whites  and  Blackfeet  that  had  been  so  long  pros- 
ecuted. Many  a  thrilling  story  was  narrated  in  connection  with  the  his- 
tory of  this  war,  none  of  which  more  interested  me  than  the  following 
explanation  of  its  origin  : 

The  Blackfeet  at  first  were  friendly  to  the  whites,  and  a  very  consider- 
able trade  in  guns  and  ammunition  was  carried  on  with  them  by  the  latter. 
Like  most  savages,  they  became  great  admirers  of  the  potency  and  use  of 
gunpowder,  and  were  quite  curious  to  ascertain  the  process  by  which  it 
could  be  had  independent  of  the  whites.  In  answer  to  inquiries,  they 
were  informed  it  was  the  seed  of  a  species  of  grain,  and  might  be  multi- 
plied in  like  manner  to  any  extent  by  cultivation. 

Accrediting  the  story  and  captivated  with  the  idea  of  raising  their  own 
powder,  a  large  quantity  was  purchased  for  that  purpose,  which  was  care- 
fully planted,  in  full  expectation  of  an  abundant  harvest. 

Their  disappointment  at  the  result  will  be  readily  supposed.  Denoun- 
cing the  whites  as  liars  and  cheats,  they  were  not  slow  to  avow  their  med- 
itated revenge. 

It  needed,  however,  yet  another  act  of  perfidy  to  work  the  more  perfect 
transformation  of  friends  into  foes.  This  soon  after  was  consummated  as 
follows : 

The  Blackfeet  and  Flatheads  met,  at  an  appointed  place,  for  the  purpose 
of  trade  and  the  maintenance  of  friendly  relations,  as  was  their  annual 
custom. 

During  this  conference,  the  head  chiefs  of  the  two  nations  commenced 
descanting  upon  the  merits  and  fleetness  of  their  respective  horses,  which 
resulted  in  a  banter,  a  bet,  and  a  race. 

The  Flatheads,  producing  two  of  their  fastest  chargers,  were  backed  by 
the  Blackfeet  in  a  like  number ;  and,  upon  the  success  of  the  particular 
favorites,  not  only  the  honor  of  the  two  nations  was  staked,  but  a  large 
amount  of  other  valuables.  The  race  was  run,  and,  the  result  proving 
close,  both  parties  claimed  the  wager. 

Upon  this  a  dispute  ensued,  and  finally  the  whole  matter  was  referred 
to  three  white  men,  by  whose  decision  they  agreed  to  abide.  The  arbitra- 
tors, through  mere  personal  predilection,  instead  of  pronouncing  it  a  tie,  as 
they  should  have  done,  awarded  the  palm  to  the  Flatheads. 

The  Blackfeet  gave  in  to  the  decision  and  relinquished  the  stakes,  but 
from  that  day  forth  avowed  themselves  the  eternal  enemies  of  both  whites 
and  Flatheads.  This  occurrence  dated  the  commencement  of  an  unre- 
lenting war  of  extermination  on  their  part,  nor  have  they  permitted  any 
suitable  opportunity  of  wreaking  their  vengence  upon  the  offenders  to 
pass  unimproved. 

Notwithstanding  the  bad  character  generally  ascribed  to  the  Blackfeet, 
they  possess  traits  worthy  of  admiration.  As  enemies,  they  make  no  dis- 
guise of  their  hostile  designs  ;  and  though  they  have  been  known  to  meet 
with  parties  of  whites  without  coming  in  colission,  and  even  to  smoke 


230  THE  MEDICINE  SHOT. 

with  them  ;  yet,  on  such  occasions,  they  have  uniformity  declared  the  armis- 
tice a  temporary  one,  and  in  force  only  for  the  time  being. 

Instances  have  been  known  of  trappers  penetrating"  into  their  villages 
unawares,  who  received  the  treatment  of  guests  during  their  stay,  and 
were  allowed  to  depart  unmolested  upon  expressing  their  wishes  to  that 
effect. 

The  bright  spots  in  the  character  of  these  Indians  are  more  fully  devel- 
oped in  the  following  example : 

Several  years  ago,  two  trappers,  in  their  excursions  for  beaver,  dis- 
covered a  Blackfoot  engaged  in  butchering.  Thinking  the  present  a  favor- 
able opportunity  to  reduce  the  number  of  their  enemies,  they  cautiously 
approached  the  unsuspecting  operator  with  the  design  of  affording  him  a 
speedy  transition  to  the  Spirit  Land. 

Having  advanced  within  gun-shot,  they  were  almost  in  the  very  act  of 
firing,  when  a  casual  glance  revealed  the  dusky  forms  of  savages  who 
surrounded  them  at  no  great  distance,  and  in  such  a  manner  as  to  preclude 
all  possibility  of  escape ;  but  as  yet,  however,  the  intended  victim  was 
ignorant  of  their  presence. 

On  observing  the  danger  of  their  situation,  they  rushed  up  to  him,  and, 
seizing  his  hands,  claimed  his  protection.  The  excitement  of  the  moment 
having  subsided,  he  replied  : — 

"  Your  lives  belong  to  me, — you  might  have  taken  mine  ;  it  must  not 
be  said  that  the  Blackfoot  is  ungrateful.  Come  with  me  and  you  are 
safe." 

Upon  this  he  led  the  way  to  the  village  near  by,  and  made  them  the 
guests  of  his  own  family. 

Everything  that  generous  hospitality  could  devise  for  comfort  and  pleas- 
ure, was  placed  at  their  disposal.  The  villagers  seemed  to  vie  with  each 
other  in  their  attestation  of  friendship  and  good  will,  and  repeatedly  solicited 
them  to  remain  and  join  the  tribe. 

However,  on  expressing  a  wish  to  leave,  they  were  escorted  for  some 
distance  en  route,  and  left  to  choose  their  own  course  of  travel,  with  the 
parting  monition :  "  We  are  now  friends. — When  next  we  meet  it  will  be 
as  enemies  !"* 

*  The  Blackfeet  are  generally  accounted  brave,  though  instances  have  been 
known  of  three  or  four  whites  defeating  a  large  party  of  them.  On  one  occasion, 
three  trappers  fell  into  an  ambuscade  of  these  Indians,  and  two  of  them  were  instantly 
shot  from  their  horses,  but  the  third  was  left  untouched,  and  spurring  his  animal  to 
the  height  of  its  speed,  broke  through  the  whole  throng  and  was  soon  out  of  reach. 

Four  mounted  Indians  immediately  started  in  pursuit,  and  gained  rapidly  upon 
him  till  they  came  within  shooting  distance,  when  the  lone  trapper  turned  upon  them, 
and  with  his  double-barreled  rifle  picked  off  two  of  their  number,  and  again  fled. 

Confident  of  securing  their  intended  victim,  now  that  they  supposed  his  fire-arms 
were  uncharged,  the  remaining  two  hurried  after  him,  and  in  a  few  moments  were 
wthin  range  of  pistol-shot.  The  trapper  then  again  halted,  and  the  discharge  of  a 
pistol  brought  the  third  to  the  ground. 

Drawing  forth  a  second  from  his  belt,  the  work  of  slaughter  would  have  been  com- 
plete, had  not  the  terrified  savage,  in  his  turn,  fled  with  the  utmost  precipitancy.  The 
trapper  pursued,  but  was  far  in  the  rear  when  the  Blackfoot  regained  his  com- 
rades, and  hurriedly  exclaimed  : 

"  Haste,  ye  !  flee  !  It  was  the  Big  Medicine  we  pursued,  and  at  his  word  three 
of  our  warriors  breathe  not,  and  of  four  I  only  have  escaped  !     His  single  medicine- 


YAMPAH  RIVER.  231 

Nov.  20th.  Yielding  to  the  solicitations  of  my  comrades  demontes,  I 
am  again  journeying  for  the  Platte.  During  the  brief  period  of  our  stay  at 
Fort  Hall,  we  enjoyed  mild  and  agreeable  weather,  as  a  general  thing ; 
only  one  inconsiderable  fall  of  snow  having  occurred  meanwhile,  and  the 
grass,  even  yet,  in  many  places,  is  green  and  fresh. 

Notwithstanding  the  lateness  of  the  season,  we  anticipate  but  little  diffi- 
culty in  crossing  the  mountains,  via  New  Park  and  Grand  river  pass,  as  the 
journey  has  been  performed  on  several  occasions  in  the  dead  of  winter. 
But,  a  further  stimulant  to  our  hopes  is  the  possession  of  good  mules  and 
horses,  which  are  every  way  competent  to  the  task  before  them  ;  my  two 
companions  are,  also,  intimately  acquainted  with  the  mountains,  and  well 
Know  how  to  shape  our  course  to  advantage.  ^ 

For  the  first  few  days  our  progress  was  rapid  and  uninterrupted.  Fol- 
lowing the  regular  trail  by  way  of  Bear  river,  on  the  24th  we  struck 
Black's  fork,  a  considerable  tributary  of  Green  river,  and  one  of  several  in 
its  neighborhood,  down  which  we  continued  to  its  confluence  with  the  main- 
stream ;  thence,  crossing  to  the  east  bank,  we  kept  its  general  course,  some- 
times by  its  valley,  then  again  by  long  detours  among  the  hills,  owing  to 
the  rugged  nature  of  the  country,  and  in  three  days  subsequent,  reached 
the  Yampah,  or  Little  Snake,  an  affluent  from  the  left. 

The  intermediate  country  from  Fort  Hall  to  the  Yampah  has  been  par- 
tially noticed  in  connection  with  Oregon  and  California,  and  for  that  reason 
it  will  not  be  expected  of  me  to  waste  time  in  repetition. 

I  need  only  add,  that  among  the  hills  we  noticed  much  nude  sterility,  in- 
termingled with  frequent  clusters  of  absinthe,  aretmisia  (or  greasewood,  as 
it  is  familliarly  called,)  and  bunch-grass,  with  occasional  groves  of  pine, 
cedar,  and  balsam. 

In  the  valleys  the  grass  was  yet  green,  and  indicated  the  presence  of 
winter  only  by  its  withered  tops.  Snow  was  seen  only  upon  the  hills  and 
mountains,  and  even  there  in  no  great  quantity.  Game  appeared  plentiful 
for  most  of  the  distance,  particularly  black-tailed  deer  and  sheep. 

The  section  of  country  hereabouts  is  inhabited  by  the  Snake  Indians, 
from  whom  the  river  above  referred  to  derives  its  name. 

This  stream  heads  in  the  New  Park  Mountains,  and  pursues  a  south- 
west course  for  about  one  hundred  miles,  recieving  in  that  distance  seve- 
ral large  tributaries  from  the  east,  when  it  finally  discharges  itself  into 
Green  river,  near  lat.  41°  North. 

Crossing  the  Yampah,  we  soon  struck  the  Elk  Head,  or  Little  Bear,  a 
principal  affluent  from  the  right,  and  continuing  our  course  up  its  valley. 
After  passing  a  small  ridge,  on  the  30th  Nov.  we  found  ourselves  upon  the 
head  waters  of  the  Platte. 

iron  twice  spoke  the  death-word,  and  at  the  same  time  ;  then  with  his  pipe-stem  he 
bade  a  third  one  go  to  the  Spirit  Land  ;  and,  as  he  drew  forth  his  butcher-knife  to 
shoot  me,  I  had  fled  beyond  reach,  that  I  might  tell  you  how  to  escape  !  Haste,  ye  ! 
flee  !  It  is  the  Big  Medicine  that  comes  from  yon  !     Flee,  lest  he  kill  us  all !" 

Following  his  advice,  the  astonished  savages  immediately  fled  with  the  greatest 
consternation,  fully  persuaded  it  was  their  only  mode  of  escaping  from  certain  de- 
struction at  the  hands  of  the  Big  Medicine  ! 

20* 


232  THE  NEW  PARK. 

Proceeding  by  the  valle)T  of  a  creek  tributary  to  the  above  river,  the  day 
following  we  came  to  a  considerable  branch  from  the  south,  and  camped 
near  its  mouth,  for  the  purpose  of  killing  buffalo,  of  which  vast  numbers 
thronged  the  vicinity. 

The  valleys  of  the  Yampah  and  Little  Bear  were  broad,  in  places,  with  a 
deep  soil  of  dark,  sandy  loam,  and  tolerably  well  timbered. 

The  country  contiguous  to  them  was  rugged  and  generally  sterile  ;  the 
soil,  with  the  exception  of  the  creek  bottoms,  being  shallow  and  sandy,  and 
infested  with  extensive  fields  of  absinthe. 

By  the  way  we  passed  a  fort,  formerly  occupied  by  a  company  of  trap- 
pers under  the  command  of  Frapp,  near  which  himself  and  four  other 
whites  were  killed  in  an  engagement  with  the  Sioux  some  two  years  since. 
The  Indians  lost  fifteen  or  twenty  of  their  warriors  in  killed  and  wounded, 
but  succeeded  in  driving  off  eighty  head  of  horses  as  their  booty. 

Among  the  rocks  of  the  hills  I  noticed  frequent  clusters  of  larb,  richly 
laden  with  its  deep  red  berry,*  both  tempting  to  the  eye  and  pleasing  to  the 
taste. 

On  reaching  the  Platte  we  were  ushered  into  a  large  and  beautiful  circu- 
lar valley,  known  as  the  New  Park. 

This  valley  is  thirty-five  miles  in  width  by  thirty  in  breadth,  and  is  shut 
in  upon  all  sides  by  lofty  mountains,  whose  summits  tower  far  above  the 
snow-line  and  sport  their  white-caps  through  each  returning  year.  It  is 
well  watered  by  numerous  streams  that  trace  their  course  from  the  neigh- 
boring heights  to  commingle  with  the  Platte. 

The  river  makes  its.  exit  from  this  place  by  a  forced  passage  through  nar- 
row defiles,  between  the  Medicine  Bow  and  New  Park  Mountains,  forming 
a  canon  several  miles  in  length,  defined  by  precipitous  walls,  varying  in 
height  from  fifty  to  six  hundred  feet. 

The  New  Park  valley  affords  considerable  timber  of  various  kinds,  and  a 
fertile  soil,  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  The  superfice  is  usually  a  thick 
mould,  compounded  of  clay,  sand,  and  gravel,  with  decomposed  vegetable 
matter ;  while  the  bottoms  disclose  a  rich  alluvion  of  two  or  three  feet 
depth. 

The  entire  country  was  crowded  with  game,  in  countless  numbers,  both 
of  buffalo,  elk,  and  deer.  It  seemed  as  though  a  general  ingathering  from 
mountain,  hill,  and  plain,  had  taken  place  to  winter  in  this  chosen  spot. 

It  is  said  the  great  abundance  of  game  first  suggested  the  christening  of 
the  locality  as  the  New  Park, 

We  remained  in  our  encampment  till  the  5th  of  December,  and  improved 
the  interval  in  procuring  a  choice  supply  of  meat,  and  feasting  upon  those 
delicious  viands  which  mountaineers  so  well  know  how  to  acquire  and  dis- 
pose of. 

The  day  preceding  our  departure,  a  fall  of  snow  covered  the  ground  for 

*  The  larb-berry  is  of  a  deep  red  color,  and  somewhat  larger  than  the  common  cur" 
rant.  It  is  of  a  sweet  spicy  taste,  and  very  pleasant.  It  grows  upon  a  small  ground* 
vine  of  evergreen,  with  a  leaf  assimilating  the  winter-clover  in  shape,  ard  is  found 
only  in  mountainous  regions. 


ROUTE  TO  BAYOU  SALDAE.  233 

several  inches,  but  the  lapse  of  a  few  hours  served  to  disclose  the  bare 
vegetation  of  the  valleys,  and  denuded  spots  upon  the  mountain  sides. 

Again  en  route,  we  continued  up  a  large  stream  from  the  south  and  struck 
into  a  broad  trail,  which  led  through  large  openings  and  forests  of  aspen 
across  the  main  mountain  chain,  to  the  waters  of  Grand  river,  into  a  beau- 
tiful valley  known  as  the  Old  Park,  where  we  remained  encamped  the  two 
days  subsequent. 

Our  nearest  route  to  Fort  Lancaster  would  have  been  by  Cache  a  la 
Poudre,  or  Long's  Peak  ;  but,  accumulating  snows  admonished  us  to  aban- 
don the  Atlantic  side  of  the  mountains  for  a  more  southern  latitude. 

The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Old  Park  is  highly  interesting.  It  em- 
braces a  large  tract  of  fertile  territory,  well  watered  and  timbered,  but  more 
or  less  undulating,  and  is  hemmed  in  by  high  mountains,  which  are  clothed 
with  lateral  forests  of  pine,  cedar,  and  aspen. 

This  valley  ranges  from  east  to  west ;  and,  heading  at  the  base  of  Long's 
Peak,  finds  its  opposite  extremity  at  the  canon  by  which  Grand  river 
emerges  through  the  opposing  barriers  of  mountain  spurs. 

The  Old  Park  also,  like  the  New,  receives  its  appellation  from  the  great 
abundance  of  game  for  which  it  is  celebrated. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


From  Grand  river  to  Bayou  Salade.— Observations  by  the  way. — Description  of  the 
Bayou. — Voracity  of  magpies. — Journey  to  Cherry  creek. — Country  en  route. — 
Crystal  creek. — Abundance  of  game. — Antelope  hunting. — Remarkable  sagacity  of 
wolves. — Snow  storms  and  amusement. — Ravens. — Move  camp. — Comfortable  win- 
ter quarters. — Animal  food  conducive  to  general  health  and  longevity. — A  laugha- 
ble instance  of  sound  sleeping. — Astonishing  wolfine  rapacity. — Beaver  lodges  and 
all  about  beaver. — Hunting  excursion.— Vasque's  creek,  its  valleys,  table  lands, 
mountains,  and  prairies. — Camp. — Left  alone. — Sensations,  and  care  to  avoid  dan- 
ger.— A  nocturnal  visitor. — Thrilling  adventure  and  narrow  escape. — A  lofty  speci- 
men of"  gettin  down  stairs.  "—Geological  statistics. 

While  camped  at  the  Old  Park,  I  improved  the  opportunity  for  ranging 
among  the  adjacent  mountains,  whose  stern  recesses  disclosed  many  smil- 
ing beauty-spots.  The  weather  continued  pleasant,  though  somewhat  colder 
than  usual ;  and,  notwithstanding  the  snow  in  places  lay  quite  deep,  it  had 
acquired  great  solidity  and  compactness. 

On  the  10th  of  December  we  were  again  under  way. 

Crossing  Grand  river  and  continuing  up  a  southern  tributary,  through  a 
a  narrow  defile  of  mountains,  to  a  large  valley  formed  at  the  junction  of 
three  principal  branches,  known  us  La  Bonte's-hole,  and  choosing  the  mid- 
dle one,  we  proceeded  to  its  head, — thence,  passing  the  dividing  ridge  by  a 
well-beaten   buffalo  trail,  to  the  right  of  Long's   Peak,  on  the    16th  we 


234  VORACITY  OF  MAGPIES. 

reached  Bayou  Salade,  another  extensive  valley  at  the  head  of  the  South 
Fork  of  the  Platte.  Here,  selecting  a  good  camping  place  in  a  beautiful 
grove  of  aspen,  we  remained  till  the  19th  inst. 

This  last  stage  of  our  journey  proved  difficult  and  tedious.  Although  the 
passing  throngs  of  buffalo  had  afforded  a  well-marked  trail,  our  horses  fre- 
quently became  so  mired  in  snow  we  were  compelled  to  extricate  them  by 
main  strength, — two  or  three  storms,  in  the  mean  time,  having  increased  the 
quantity  to  an  average  depth  of  twelve  or  fourteen  inches. 

The  valleys  and  sunny  hill-sides,  however,  were  generally  bare,  and  af- 
forded some  agreeable  respites  to  the  toil  of  travelling. 

The  prevailing  rock  appeared  to  be  granite,  mica  slate,  and  sandstone. 
The  soil  of  the  valleys  gave  evidence  of  fertility,  as  did  occasional  spots 
upon  the  hill-sides. 

The  streams  were  most  of  them  skirted  with  cottonwood,  aspen,  and  box- 
elder,  while  the  hills  and  mountains  presented  frequent  groves  of  pine  and 
cedar. 

Game,  in  all  the  different  varieties  common  to  the  country,  was  seen  in 
great  abundance  the  entire  route. 

Bayou  Salade  is  a  valley  some  thirty-five  miles  long  by  fifteen  wide, 
bounded  upon  all  sides  by  lofty  mountain  chains,  with  the  exception  of  the 
south,  where  a  broad  stretch  of  high,  rugged  hills  and  rolling  prairies  sepa- 
rates it  from  the  Arkansas. 

The  Platte,  on  emerging  from  this  place,  makes  its  final  entrance  into  the 
grand  prairie  by  a  narrow  gorge  in  the  mountain  chain  that  extends  to  a 
distance  of  several  miles.  Upon  the  southeast,  the  frowning  summits  of 
Pike's  Peak  tower  to  a  height  of  12,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  and  upon  the  west  the  continuous  chain  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
clothed  in  eternal  snow,  point  skyward  in  solemn  grandeur. 

The  numerous  streams  that  find  their  sources  in  the  neighborhood  are 
well  timbered,  and  present  many  interesting  bottoms  of  rich  alluvial  soil. 

The  valley  is  densely  thronged  with  buffalo,  while  vast  quantities  of 
deer,  elk,  and  antelope  unite  to  increase  the  number  and  variety  of  its 
game. 

The  weather  at  this  time  proved  uncomfortably  cold.  Snow  lying  upon 
the  ground  to  the  depth  of  several  inches,  we  were  necessitated  to  feed  our 
horses  upon  cottonwood  bark  during  the  interim. 

Bayou  Salade  bears  the  name  of  being  subject  to  severe  winters,  but 
whether  correctly  or  not,  I  am  unable  to  say.  It  is  undoubtedly  well 
adapted  to  stock-raising,  and,  were  it  not  for  unseasonable  frosts,  might  be 
turned  to  good  account  for  agricultural  purposes. 

The  magpies  were  more  troublesome  and  audacious  in  their  depredations 
hereabouts,  than  in  any  place  we  had  yet  visited.  Two  mules,  whose 
backs  had  become  sore  from  continued  service  under  the  saddle,  were  se- 
verely annoyed  by  these  relentless  pesecutors,  which,  despite  opposing 
effort,  would  pierce  the  skinless  flesh  with  their  beaks  and  feast  upon  their 
agonizing  victims. 

To  save  the  poor  sufferers  from  being  devoured  alive,  we  were  com- 


CAMP  AT  CHERRY  CREEK.  235 

pelled  to  envelope  them  with  thick  coverings  of  buffalo  robes,  and  even  then 
the  rapacious  cormorants  could  scarcely  be  prevented  from  renewing  their 
cruel  repast. 

Dec.  19th.  Again  resuming  our  journey,  we  continued  in  a  southeast 
direction,  over  a  low  ridge  of  hills,  and  found  ourselves  in  a  very  rough 
country,  interspersed  with  frequent  valleys  which  head  several  well  tim- 
bered affluents  of  the  Arkansas ; — thence,  passing  around  the  southern 
extremity  of  a  lofty  mountain  range,  we  struck  Fontaine  qui  Bouit  a  few 
miles  below  the  Soda  spring. 

Crossing  this  stream,  we  travelled  north  by  west,  following  the  moun- 
tain ridge  at  its  base  for  some  forty  miles,  which  brought  us  to  the  Platte  ; 
— thence,  keeping  the  river  bottom,  on  the  28th  we  made  camp  at  Cherry 
creek,  a  short  distance  above  its  mouth.  . 

The  interesting  and  romantic  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Pike's  Peak  and 
Fontaine  qui  Bouit  has  already  been  described  in  full,  and  needs  but  one 
passing  remark  in  attestation  of  the  mildness  of  its  climate,  viz :  the 
ground  was  free  from  snow,  and  afforded  occasional  spots  of  green  grass. 

Near  this  place  we  encountered  a  small  hunting  party  of  Arapaho  In- 
dians, and  obtained  from  them  a  choice  supply  of  fresh  meat. 

The  interval  from  the  Soda  spring  to  the  Platte,  after  passing  the  high, 
towering  and  isolated  walls  of  red  granitic  sandstone  to  the  northward,  be- 
trays a  mixed  character  of  wildness  and  beauty.  The  vast  forests  of  stately 
pines,  surmounting  the  long  rolling  hills  to  the  right,  which  are  relieved 
as  the  traveller  advances  by  high  table  lands  and  quadrangular-shaped 
eminences  that  disclose  their  bare  sides,  ever  and  anon  graced  with  lateral 
cedars  and  dwarf  oaks  ;  and  then  the  heaven-scaling  summits  lhat,  in  con- 
tinuous chain,  oppose  an  impregnable  wall  upon  the  left,  unite  to  define  a 
broad-spread  of  undulating  prairie,  some  eight  or  ten  miles  wide,  well  wa- 
tered and  possessed  of  a  good  soil. 

The  prevailing  rock  of  this  section  appeared  to  be  sandstone  and  lime- 
stone, intermixed  with  conglomerates  of  various  kinds. 

I  noticed  two  or  three  small  ridges,  several  miles  long,  running  parallel 
with  the  mountains  at  regular  distances,  in*  an  uninterrupted  course,  pre- 
senting continued  lines  of  thin  strata  planted  vertically  in  their  sharp 
crests,  and  reaching  to  an  elevation  of  thirty  or  forty  feet,  that,  with  broken 
fragments  encumbering  their  sides,  looked  like  the  half-fallen  walls  of  some 
ancient  fortification. 

Among  several  affluents  of  the  Platte  from  the  right,  we  crossed  Crys- 
tal creek,  a  stream  which  derives  its  name  from  the  existence  af  crystal  in 
its  sandy  bed.  This  creek  is  tolerably  well  timbered  and  possesses  a  rich 
bottom  of  variable  width,  producing  at  the  proper  season  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  vegetation. 

Our  horses  being  quite  enfeebled  from  the  fatigue  of  travel,  we  gladly 
availed  ourselves  of  the  presence  of  buffalo  to  prolong  our  stay  at  Cherry 
creek  some  ten  days,  and  meanwhile  found  no  difficulty  in  procuring  a  con- 
tinued feast  of  good  things  from  the  dense  herds  that  thronged  the  country 
upon  every  side. 


236  STRATEGY  OF  WOLVES. 

The  severe  weather  and  frequent  snows  of  the  past  two  months,  had 
driven  these  animals  from  the  open  prairie  into  the  creek  bottoms  and 
mountains,  whose  vicinities  were  completely  blackened  with  their  countless 
thousands. 

The  antelope,  too,  seemed  to  have  congregated  from  all  parts,  and  cover- 
ed the  country  in  one  almost  unbroken  band.  Their  numbers  exceeded 
any  thing  of  the  kind  I  ever  witnessed  before  or  since.  We  amused  our- 
selves at  times  in  shooting  them  merely  for  their  skins,  the  latter  being  su- 
perior to  those  of  deer  or  even  sheep  in  its  nicity  of  texture  and  silky  soft- 
ness. 

One  day,  as  was  my  custom,  I  left  camp  for  the  above  purpose,  and  had 
proceeded  but  a  short  distance,  when,  happening  upon  a  large  band  of  ante- 
lope, a  discharge  from  my  piece  brought  down  one  of  its  number. 

Before  reaching  it,  however,  my  supposed  victim  had  rejoined  his  com- 
panions, and  the  whole  throng  were  lost  to  view  almost  with  the  speed  of 
thought. 

The  profuseness  of  blood  that  marked  its  trail  through  the  snow,  induced 
me  to  follow  it  in  expectation  of  soon  obtaining  the  object  of  my  pursuit ; 
but  in  vain. 

At  length,  after  travelling  four  or  five  miles,  T  began  to  despair  of  suc- 
cess, and,  feeling  weary,  sat  down  upon  the  point  of  a  small  hill  that  com- 
manded a  view  of  the  surrounding  prairie.  While  here  an  unusual  stir 
among  the  wolves  attracted  my  attention,  and  I  amused  myself  by  watch- 
ing their  movements. 

Upon  a  neighboring  eminence  some  fifty  or  a  hundred  of  these  insatiate 
marauders  were  congregated,  as  if  for  consultation.  Adjoining  this,  two 
parallel  lines  of  low  hills  led  out  from  the  river  bottom  into  the  prairie,  for 
five  or  six  miles,  defining  a  narrow  valley,  at  the  extremity  of  which  a 
large  band  of  antelope  were  quietly  grazing. 

The  chief  topic  of  the  wolfine  conference  seemed  to  have  particular  re- 
ference to  this  circumstance ;  for,  in  a  very  short  time,  the  council  dis- 
persed, and  its  members  betook  to  the  hills  skirting  the  valley  before  de- 
scribed, and,  stationing  themselves  upon  both  lines  at  regular  intervals, 
two  of  them  commenced  the  attack  by  leisurely  approaching  their  destined 
prey  from  opposite  directions,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  drive  the  whole  band 
between  the  defile  of  hungry  expectants.  This  done,  the  chase  began 
without  further  preliminary. 

Each  wolf  performed  his  part  by  pursuing  the  terrified  antelope  till  re- 
lieved by  his  next  companion,  and  he  by  the  succeeding  one ;  and  so  on, 
alternately ;  taking  care  to  reverse  their  course  at  either  extremity  of  the 
defile — again  and  again  to  run  the  death-race,  until,  exhausted  by  the  inces- 
sant effort  and  crazed  with  terror,  the  agile  animals,  that  were  wont  to  bid 
defiance  to  the  swiftest  steed,  and  rival  the  storm- wind  in  fleetness,  fell 
easy  victims  to  the  sagacity  of  their  enemies. 

1  watched  the  operation  until  several  of  them  yielded  their  lifeless  car- 
cases to  appease  the  appetite  of  their  rapacious  pursuers,  when  I  returned 
to  camp  with  far  more  exalted  ideas  of  the  instinctive  intelligence  of  wolves 
(savoring  so  strongly  of  reason  and  calculation)  than  I  had  previously  en- 
tertained. 


ANIMAL  FOOD  CONDUCIVE  TO  GENERAL  HEALTH.    237 

Two  or  three  severe  snow-storms  occurred  shortly  after  our  arrival ;  but 
having  constructed  commodious  shantees  in  regular  mountain  style,  with 
large  fires  in  front,  we  were  both  dry  and  comfortable. 

These  occasions,  too,  afforded  their  own  amusement.  Snugly  stowed 
away  in  bed,  with  our  rifles  at  hand,  whenever  a  straggling  wolf  ventured 
within  gun-shot,  in  fond  hopes  of  a  deserted  camp,  he  was  almost  sure  to 
fall  a  victim  to  his  own  temerity. 

Bands  of  five  or  ten  would  frequently  approach  almost  to  the  camp-fire, 
totally  unsuspicious  of  danger  till  the  sharp  crack  of  a  rifle  told  the  fall  of 
some  one  of  their  number. 

A  swarm  of  ravens,  allured  by  the  carcases  of  these  animals,  peopled 
the  grove  near  by.  Having  devoured  the  timely  feast,  still  the  poor  birds 
remained,  making  the  day  dismal  with  their  tireless  croakings,  as  if  in  im- 
portunate supplication  for  a  further  boon. 

Three  of  them  soon  became  quite  domesticated,  and  would  approach  fear- 
lessly to  the  very  verge  of  the  camp-fire  in  quest  of  the  offals  of  our  culi- 
nary department. 

One,  however,  by  far  exceeded  his  two  companions  in  boldness,  and 
would  venture  within  a  few  feet  of  us  at  any  time. 

So  audacious  was  his  conduct,  and  so  insatiate  his  appetite,  his  comrades 
took  occasion  to  bestow  upon  him  frequent  chastisements ;  but  all  to  no 
purpose.  At  length,  abandoning  all  hope  of  effecting  the  desired  reforma- 
tion, they  set  upon  the  offending  bird,  nor  relinquished  their  purpose  till 
the  life  of  the  luckless  gormandizer  had  expiated  the  crime  of  his  unraven- 
like  conduct,  and  his  executioners  were  left  to  enjoy  their  daily  repasts  with- 
out the  annoyance  of  his  presence. 

Jan.  16lh,  1843.  Having  received  an  accession  of  three  men  to  our 
number,  from  Fort  Lancaster,  we  removed  some  six  or  eight  miles  further 
down  the  Platte,  and  camped  in  a  large  grove  of  cottonwood  upon  the 
light  bank. 

At  this  place  it  was  our  daily  practice  to  fell  two  or  three  small  trees  for 
cur  horses,  as  we  now  considered  ourselves  fully  established  in  winter 
quarters.  Game  was  plenty,  and  wood  abundant ;  nothing,  therefore,  re- 
mained for  us  to  do  but  to  recruit  our  horses,  eat  of  the  best  the  prairie  af- 
forded, drink  of  the  crystal  waters  that  rolled  by  our  side,  and  enjoy  life  in 
tiue  mountain  style;  nor  did  wTe  neglect  the  opportunity  of  so  doing.  In 
foct,  had  the  world  been  searched  over,  it  would  have  been  hard  to  find  a 
jollier  set  of  fellows  than  we. 

The  effort  of  a  few  hours  was  sufficient  to  procure  a  month's  supply  of 
the  choicest  delicacies,  nor  is  it  marvellous  that,  to  use  a  cant  phrase  of 
the  country,  we  soon  became  "fat,  ragged,  and  saucy." 

Perhaps  nothing  is  more  conducive  to  good  health  than  animal  food.  In 
proof  of  this  I  need  only  to  refer  to  the  uniform  good  health  of  those  sub- 
sisting entirely  upon  it. 

Sickness  of  any  kind  is  rarely  known  to  the  various  Indian  tribes  con- 
fined exclusively  to  its  use.     These  people  almost  invariably  live  to  an  ex- 


238  SOUND  SLEEPING. 


traordinary  age,  unless  cut  off  by  the  ravages  of  war  or  some  unforeseen 
event.  Consumption,  dyspepsy,  colds,  and  fevers,  are  alike  strangers  to 
them. 

The  same  observation  holds  good  in  regard  to  the  whites  who  reside  in 
this  country  and  subsist  in  a  similar  manner. 

I  have  known  confirmed  cases  both  of  consumption  and  dyspepsy 
cured  by  visiting  these  regions  and  submitting  exclusively  to  this  mode  of 
living. 

For  my  own  part,  I  felt  not  the  least  indisposed  during  the  entir 
period  of  my  stay,  nor  did  I  even  hear  of  an  instance  of  death  from 
natural  causes  in  the  mean  time,  and  but*  rarely  of  a  case  of  sick- 
ness, however  slight.  The  same  also  has  been  repeatedly  remarked  in 
my  hearing  by  persons  who  have  resided  here  for  ten  or  twelve  years, 
and  whose  united  experience  corroborates  my  own. 

A  further  fact,  relative  to  the  teeth,  is  worthy  of  note  in  connection 
with  this  subject.  These  never  suffer  by  decay  or  aches,  when  em- 
ployed only  in  the  mastication  of  flesh ;  or,  at  least,  I  have  never  seen  or 
heard  of  an  instance  of  the  kind. 

I  am,  therefore,  led  to  conclude  from  the  foregoing  facts,  that  animal 
food  is-  in  every  respect  the  most  wholesome  and  innocent  diet  which 
can  be  adopted. 

A  person  in  the  enjoyment  of  good  health  and  a  quiet  mind,  generally 
sleeps  sound.  In  proof  that  such  was  the  case  with  our  party,  I  need  only 
advert  to  a  circumstance  which  here  occurred. 

Having  awoke  one  moon  shiny  night,  and  observing  an  unusual  number 
of  wolves  in  the  vicinity  of  camp,  I  seized  my  rifle  and  shot  one  of  them; 
soon  after  I  improved  the  opportunity  to  lay  another  prostrate,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  subsequent  a  third  fell  in  like  manner ;  all  at  three  several  shots. 

A  continuation  of  the  sport  seemed  likely  to  detract  too  much  from  the 
hours  of  sleep,  and  so,  placing  the  victims  in  front  of  the  camp-fire,  I  ad- 
dressed myself  to  repose. 

A  light  snow  fell  in  the  interval,  and  sunrise  found  us  all  in  bed,  patiently 
waiting  to  see  who  would  have  the  courage  to  rise  first.  At  length,  one 
man  jumped  up  and  turned  to  renew  the  fire.  On  noticing  the  wolves 
before  it  he  wheeled  for  his  rifle,  in  his  eagerness  to  secure  which  he  fell 
sprawling  at  full  length. 

"  Hello  !"  says  one  ;  u  what's  the  matter,  my  boy.  Is  that  are  a  sample 
of  the  ups  and  downs  of  life  ?" 

"Matter?"  exclaimed  our  hero,  gathering  himself  up  in  double-quick 
time,  and  rushing  for  his  gun ;  "  matter  enough  !  The  cursed  wolves  have 
grown  so  bold  and  saucy,  that  they  come  to  the  fire  to  warm  themselves  ! 
Only  look !  A  dozen  or  more  of  'em  are  there  now,  in  broad  day-light ! 
Get  up,  quick  !  and  let's  kill  'em !" 

Aroused  by  this  extraordinary  announcement,  the  whole  posse  were  in- 
stantly on  their  feet  to  repel  the  audacious  invaders  ;  when,  lo  !  the  cause 
of  alarm  proved  three  dead  carcases. 

But,  where  did  they  come  from  ?  When  were  they  killed  ?  Who  placed 
them  there  ?  These  were  questions  none  were  able  to  solve,  and  in  regard 
to  which  all  were  profoundly  ignorant.     Finally,  the  circumstance   occa- 


I 

I 
W 

PQ 


ABOUT  BEAVER.  239 

sioned  quite  an  animated  discussion,  which  was  soon  merged  into  angry 
dispute  ;  and,  after  amusing  myself  awhile  at  their  expense,  I  unravelled 
the  mystery,  to  the  surprise  of  all. 

"  Can  it  be  possible  !"  was  the  general  exclamation, — "  can  it  be  possible 
that  we  should  have  slept  so  sound  as  not  to  hear  the  report  of  a  rifle  fired 
three  times  in  succession,  and  under  our  very  ears,  at  that!" 

"  This  reminds  me,"  said  one,  "  of  dreaming  that  somebody  fired  du- 
ring the  night.  But  it  seemed  so  much  like  other  dreams  I  had  forgotten 
it  till  now." 

"  Well,"  retorted  a  second,  "  we  are  a  pretty  set  of  customers  to  live 
in  a  dangerous  country  !  Why,  a  single  Indian  might  have  come  into  camp 
and  killed  the  whole  of  us,  one  after  another,  with  all  the  ease  imaginable  !'' 

The  above  incident  induced  the  narration  of  a  circumstance,  happening 
to  an  individual  of  my  acquaintance  two  or  three  weeks  previous. 

He  had  been  into  the  mountains  after  deer,  and  was  on  his  return  to 
the  Fort  for  a  fresh  supply  of  ammunition,  and,  having  occasion  to  camp  out 
at  night,  like  a  genuine  mountaineer,  he  took  his  saddle  for  a  pillow. 
This,  being  covered  with  raw  hide,  excited  the  cupidity  of  a  marauding 
wolf. 

The  hungry  beast  felt  ill-disposed  to  let  slip  an  opportunity  thus  favora- 
ble for  appeasing  his  appetite  with*a  dry  morsel,  and  so,  gently  drawing  it 
from  beneath  the  head  of  the  unconscious  sleeper,  he  bore  off  his  prize 
to  devour  it  at  his  leisure. 

In  the  morning  our  hero  awoke  minus  saddle,  and  nothing  save  a  num- 
ber of  wolf-tracks  at  his  head  furnished  clue  to  the  mystery  of  its  disap- 
pearance ;  and,  after  spending  several  hours  in  fruitless  search,  neither 
hide  or  hair  of  it  could  be  found. 

In  the  river  bank  near  camp  were  two  lodges  of  beaver,  whose  saga- 
cious occupants  gave  frequent  indications  of  their  industrious  habits  by 
the  magnitude  of  their  performances.  Several  trees,  ten  or  twelve  inches 
in  diameter,  had  been  freshly  felled  by  them  to  furnish  their  families 
with  food. 

In  such  operations  they  exhibit  an  instinctive  intelligence  well-nigh  ap- 
proaching to  reason.  They  uniformerly  select  trees  tha.t  stand  above 
their  lodges,  in  order  to  avail  themselves  of  the  current  in  conveying  their 
timber  to  the  destined  place  of  deposit. 

When  a  tree  is  thus  chosen,  the  cautious  little  animal  first  carefully 
notices  the  point  towards  which  its  top  inclines,  and  then  sets  himself  to 
work  at  the  opposite  side.  As  his  task  approaches  its  completion,  he  fre- 
quently retires  a  short  distance  to  observe  the  direction  in  which  the  tree  is 
likely  to  fall,  by  watching  its  motions,  and  renews  his  labors  with  great  cau- 
tion. Upon  the  first  indication  of  the  finale,  like  an  experienced  woodsman, 
he  instantly  withdraws  beyond  the  reach  of  danger,  and  leaves  the  tottering 
forest-monarch  to  announce  his  fallen  greatness  in  the  awful  crash  by 
which  he  is  bespread  upon  the  ground. 

The  process  of  chopping  is  then  performed  by  severing  the  trunk  into 
blocks,  some  three  feet  in  length,  suitable  for  transportation,  which  are- 
severally  taken  to  the  u  slide  "  and  rolled  into  the  stream,  by  the  cunning 


240  HUNTING  EXCURSION. 


animal — using  his  tail  as  a  substitute  for  hands.  As  they  fall  one  after 
another,  he  plunges  In  and  guides  them  to  their  destination,  where  they 
are  safely  moored  for  future  use. 

The  beaver  possesses  great  strength  in  his  tail,  which  is  twelve  or  fif- 
teen inches  long,  four  broad,  and  a  half  inch  thick.  This  part  of  the  ani- 
mal is  highly  esteemed  by  trappers,  and  assimilates  a  fish  in  taste,  though 
it  is  far  superior  to  any  of  the  finny  tribe. 

His  teeth  are  very  sharp,  (incisors,)  two  inches  or  more  in  length,  per- 
fectly round  and  of  a  uniform  size,  with  the  exception  of  the  cutting 
extremities,  which  are  gouge-like,  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter, 
and  nearly  in  the  shape  of  a  semicircle. 

Beaver  lodges  are  commonly  constructed  in  holes  carefully  excavated  in 
the  banks  of  streams,  in  such  a  manner  that  the  entrances  are  entirely 
covered  by  water.  It  is  very  rarely  they  build  in  any  other  manner,  not- 
withstanding most  writers  upon  this  subject  assert  the  contrary. 

The  female  usually  produces  two,  and  sometimes  three,  at  a  birth ,  but 
seldom  rears  more  than  one ; — first  destroying  the  least  likely,  she  bestows 
much  attention  upon  her  favorite  offspring,  and  nurses  it  with  great  tender- 
ness. 

The  character  and  habits  of  this  curious  animal,  in  other  respects,  have 
probably  met  the  reader's  eye  through  other  sources,  so  that  a  more  ex- 
tended notice  under  this  head  would  be  unnecssary. 

Having  procured  a  fresh  supply  of  ammunition  from  Fort  Lancaster, 
some  two  weeks  succeeding  our  arrival  at  this  place  I  visited  the  moun- 
tains on  a  hunting  excursion,  in  company  with  a  single  voyageur. 

Our  course  lead  up  Vasque's  creek  for  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  to  a  ridge 
of  high  table  land,  through  which  we  passed,  by  a  circuitous  route,  and 
were  ushered  into  a  broad  and  beautiful  valley,  bounded  upon  the  east  by 
the  ridge  before  named,  and  on  the  west  by  a  lofty  mountain  chain. 

Vasque's  creek  is  well  timbered,  and  has  a  rich  bottom,  averaging  one 
mile  in  breadth,  and  is  skirted  by  a  slightly  undulating  prairie,  quite  pro- 
ductive in  various  kinds  of  grasses. 

This  creek  is  from  eight  to  ten  yards  wide,  and  affords  a  body  of  water 
more  than  a  foot  in  depth.  It  heads  in  the  main  chain  of  the  moun 
tains,  where  it  claims  a  valley  of  considerable  extent,  enclosed  upon  al 
sides  by  lofty  ridges  that  preclude  the  possibility  of  approach,  except  a 
two  points  marking  an  Indian  pass  to  the  waters  of  Grand  river. 

From  thence  it  winds  its  way  between  long  defiles  of  mountains,  tha' 
close  in  abruptly  upon  its  very  water's  edge,  till  it  finally  intersects  the 
valley  first  spoken  of,  and  forces  itself  through  the  high  ridge  of  table  land 
into  the  open  prairie. 

Finding  an  abundance  of  deer  in  the  vicinity,  we  struck  camp  and  made 
it  our  hunting-ground  for  the  time  being.  Our  efforts  were  very  success- 
ful, and  seldom  a  favorable  day  passed  without  giving  us  the  skins  and 
choice  parts  of  two  or  more  deer. 

Nothing  occurred  to  mar  our  enjoyment  for  the  first  two  or  three  weeks, 
at  which  time  my  comrade,  having  unfortunately  broken  his  gun-lock,  was 


MIRACULOUS  ESCAPE.  241 

compelled  to  return  to  the  Fort  for  repairs.  I  resolved,  however,  to  remain 
solo,  despite  his  entreaties  to  the  contrary. 

This  was  the  first  trial  I  ever  made  of  hermit-life,  and  I  must  confess, 
that  after  the  first  sensations  of  repulsive  loneliness  had  been  overcome,  I 
felt  much  attached  to  it,  as  subsequent  pages  will  prove. 

Yet  there  was  something  so  forbidding  in  the  idea  of  my  real  situation,  I 
seldom  reverted  to  it  without  experiencing  feelings  of  gloomy  apprehen- 
sion. Nor  need  it  be  wondered  at,  removed  as  I  was  far  away  from  friendly 
aid,  and  in  a  dangerous  country,  with  a  thousand  terrific  scenes  awaiting 
me  at  every  step. 

Still,  in  a  little  time  I  learned  to  forget  all  this,  and  roamed  as  freely  by 
day,  and  slept  as  soundly  by  night,  as  though  surrounded  by  friends  and 
guarded  by  hosts  of  armed  men. 

But  the  reader  must  not  infer  from  these  remarks  that  I  had  settled  down 
in  a  state  of  careless  security,  for  I  took  especial  care  a  all  times  to  avoid 
surprise,  by  close  attention  to  certain  indications  which  my  own  observa- 
tion had  taught  me  to  regard  as  the  general  precursors  of  danger  from  a 
savage  foe,  in  order,  by  a  timely  movement,  to  escape  a  contact  so  fraught 
with  peril. 

For  several  nights  I  had  a  constant  visitor  in  the  shape  of  a  prairie-fox, — 
a  creature  about  twice  the  size  of  a  large  red  squirrel.  He  came  to  ap- 
pease his  hunger  from  the  small  scraps  of  esculents  that  lay  scattered 
about  camp, — devouring  them  while  seated  composedly  by  the  fire. 

My  stock  of  provisions  was  usually  secured,  at  night,  by  substituting  it 
for  a  pillow ;  but  Mr.  Reynard  soon  became  so  emboldened  that  he  repeat- 
edly took  occasion  to  help  himself,  even  at  the  risk  of  sundry  cuffs  it  was 
my  wont  to  bestow  upon  him  whenever  his  eagerness  led  him  to  deal  too 
roughly  with  my  hair. 

Two  incidents  of  perilous  adventure  occurred  during  this  interval, 
which  are  perhaps  not  unworthy  of  narration. 

One  day,  having  proceeded  farther  from  camp  than  was  my  custom  with- 
out finding  game,  towards  night  I  came  to  the  broad  escarp  of  a  mountain, 
covered  with  scattering  pines,  and  ascended  to  its  summit  in  hopes  of  en- 
countering deer  or  sheep,  as  the  place  gave  indications  of  both.  Here  I 
stood  at  the  very  verge  of  a  vast  precipice,  some  four  or  five  hundred  feet 
high,  overlooking  a  narrow  valley,  counter-scarped  by  a  rough  mountain 
chain,  where  a  large  band  of  elk  were  quietly  grazing.  The  sight  appeared 
so  tempting  I  was  unwilling  to  forego  the  opportunity  of  giving  them  a 
passing  shot. 

But  how  to  get  at  them  wTas  the  question.  To  go  around  the  hill  would 
require  a  detour  of  some  six  miles,  and  consume  too  much  time,  as  the  day 
was  fast  closing.  Unless  some  means  could  be  found  enabling  me  to  de- 
scend the  wall,  it  was  evident  I  must  abandon  my  design. 

Accordingly,  after  a  short  search,  having  found  a  ravine-like  pass,  worn 
by  the  rains  and  falling  rock,  that  apparently  led  to  the  valley  below,  I  at- 
tempted a  descent. 

The  breakage  was  steep  and  narrow,  and  the  loose  fragments  and  del- 


24:2  "GETTIN  DOWN  STAIRS." 

riUis  from  the  crags  above,  rendered  a  foot-hold  quite  insecure.  Yet  I 
progressed  without  much  difficulty,  and  began  to  congratulate  myself  on 
an  anticipated  speedy  exit  from  seeming  danger,  when,  coming  suddenly  to 
an  abrupt  precipice,  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet  perpendicular  descent,  and 
paved  far  around  its  base  with  sharp  rocks  presenting  their  keen  edges 
like  so  many  hatchets  set  on  end,  I  was  thrown  all  aback  at  the  appalling 
spectacle. 

In  vain  I  tried  to  retrace  my  steps.  The  sides  refused  to  sustain  my 
weight,  and  the  yielding  surface,  to  which  I  clung  with  a  death-like  tenacity, 
threatened  every  moment  to  plunge  me  headlong  from  the  frightful  steep, 
to  be  dashed  in  pieces  among  the  rocks  below. 

That  moment  was  an  awful  one  !  Retreat  was  impossible, — advance 
was  certain  death, — the  time  for  reflection  was  fast  waning,  for  every  in- 
stant brought  me  nearer  and  still  nearer  to  the  fatal  verge  ! 

It  was  then  I  bestowed  a  fleeting  thought  upon  loved  and  absent  friends, 
— one  fleeting  thought  upon  a  far  distant  home  and  all  the  cherished  endear- 
ments of  childhood, — and,  commending  my  soul  to  the  Great  Author  of  its 
existence  in  a  brief  prayer,  I  turned  to  gaze  calmly  upon  the  yawning 
jaws  of  fate  that  awaited  my  speedy  destruction. 

But  here  a  ray  of  hope  burst  from  the  thick  cloud  which  till  now  seemed 
just  ready  to  merge  the  sun  of  existence  into  the  density  of  its  own  dark- 
ness. 

A  tall  pine  grew  at  the  base  of  the  precipice,  some  fifty  yards  distant, — 
two  narrow  shelves  of  protruding  rock,  six  or  seven  feet  apart,  led  towards 
the  tree,  affording  a  sufficient  hold  for  hands  and  feet  to  a  person  standing 
at  full  length. 

My  decision  was  instantly  formed.  Carefully  dropping  my  rifle  from  the 
steep,  by  dint  of  great  exertion  I  gained  the  shelves,  that  seemed  as  if 
made  expressly  for  an  occasion  like  the  present ; — then,  by  moving  later- 
ally, inch  by  inch,  along  the  dizzy  side,  in  a  short  time  I  had  progressed  to 
the  tree,  whose  topmost  branch  lay  just  within  my  reach.  Grasping  this 
firmly  in  one  hand,  and  disengaging  the  other  to  be  used  as  the  emergency 
might  require,  I  threw  myself  backward  among  the  surrounding  boughs, 
and,  lodging  in  safety,  was  left  to  descend  at  leisure  the  remaining  dis- 
tance. 

Once  more  upon  a  sure  footing,  the  occurrences  of  the  day  had  proved  a 
sufficient  gorge  to  present  ambition  ;  so,  seizing  my  rifle,  (which  had  luck- 
ily fallen  uninjured.)  I  bade  farewell  to  the  unconscious  elk  and  returned 
to  camp.  There,  with  early  night  I  found  myself  transported  to  the  land 
of  dreams  in  the  drowsy  car  of  sleep. 

But,  instead  of  wild  beasts  and  prowling  savages  thirsting  for  blood, 
such  as  the  danger  of  my  lonely  situation  would  naturally  inspire,  my 
mind  was  filled  with  visions  of  deep  chasms,  frightful  precipices,  and  yawn- 
ing steeps,  that  seemed  to  meet  me  at  every  turn,  affording  no  possible  way 
of  escape;  and  thrice  glad  was  I  when  wakeful  morning  chased  these 
horrid  phantoms  far  away,  and  revealed  to  me  the  welcome  reality  of 
conscious  safety. 

Soon  after  the  adventure  above  related,  another  transpired  of  a  somewhat 
similar  nature 


GEOLOGICAL  REMARKS.  243 

The  rugged  mountain  chain  forming  the  western  boundary  of  the  val- 
ley, afforded  numerous  black-tailed  deer  and  sheep.  The  skins  of  these 
animals  being  much  larger  than  those  of  the  common  deer  and  antelope,  I 
was  induced  to  scour  the  vicinity,  occasionally,  in  pursuit  of  them. 

One  day,  having  gone  to  a  considerable  distance  on  this  errand,  I  was 
passing  along  upon  the  crest  of  a  sharp  peak,  of  great  height  and  steep 
sides. 

The  ridge  ranged  from  northwest  to  southeast,  leaving  upon  its  right 
side  a  vast  spread  of  smooth  snow,  encrusting  it  from  summit  to  base,  and 
upon  its  left,  a  lateral  vallon,  entirely  bare  and  graced  with  frequent  spots 
of  grass,  as  yet  green  and  flourishing. 

One  of  these  niches  was  occupied  by  a  band  of  wild  sheep,  which  were 
so' situated  they  could  not  be  successfully  approached,  unless  from  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  peak.  Attempting  this,  I  was  proceeding  slowly  along, 
by  means  of  steps  implanted  in  the  thick  crust  with  the  breech  of  my 
rifle,  and  had  almost  attained  the  point  designed,  when,  losing  foot-hold,  I 
fell  prostrate,  and,  after  gliding  the  distance  of  a  full  mile,  almost  with  the 
speed  of  thought,  found  myself  immersed  in  a  huge  bank  of  loose  snow,  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain. 

It  is  all  nonsense  to  talk  of  steam-boats  and  rail-road  cars,  in  comparison 
with  the  velocity  of  such  a  lofty  specimen  of  "  gettin  down  stairs  !"  Few 
mortals,  I  may  venture  to  say,  ever  got  along  in  the  world  half  so  fast  as 
did  myself  in  this  grand  avalanche  from  the  mountain-top. 

The  country  contiguous  to  this  valley  is  generally  possessed  of  a  very 
good  soil,  both  in  the  prairies,  table  lands,  and  mountains.  Bordering  upon 
the  watercourses,  the  surface  discloses  a  deep  mould  of  sand  and  gravel, 
exceedingly  fertile,  reposed  upon  a  substratum  of  granite  and  micaceous 
sandstone  ;  the  prairies  presented  a  mixed  superfice  of  sand,  clay,  and 
gravel,  rather  thin  and  light,  and  strongly  impregnated  with  various  salts, 
— and  the  table  lands,  a  compound  of  stiff  clay,  stone,  and  gravel,  partially 
enriched  by  the  fertilizing  properties  of  vegetable  and  animal  matter  and 
the  genial  auxiliaries  of  disintegrated  rock,  with  now  and  then  a  diminu- 
tive spot  destitute  of  grass  or  herb  and  whitened  by  a  thin  coating  of  sa- 
line efflorescence. 

The  prevailing  rock  is  sandstone,  granite,  gneiss,  limestone,  and  large 
boulders  of  the  primitive  formation. 

The  only  indication  of  minerals,  so  far  as  my  observation  extended,  was 
that  of  iron,  though  doubtless  due  research  would  bring  to  light  a  rich  sup 
ply  of  other  valuabls  ores. 

21* 


244 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Return  to  the  Fort. — Texan  recruiting  officer.— New  plans. — Volunteer. — The  Chance 
Shot,  or  Special  Providence. — Texan  camp. — Country  contiguous  to  the  Arkansas, 
from  Fountaine  qui  Bouit  to  the  Rio  de  las  Animas. — Things  at  rendezvous.— A 
glance  at  the  company. — Disposal  of  force. — March  up  the  de  las  Animas. — The 
country ;  Timpa  valley,  and  its  adjoining  hills,  to  the  de  las  Animas. — The  latter 
stream ;  its  canon,  valley  and  enchanting  scenery. — Tedious  egress. — Unparalleled 
suffering  from  hunger,  toil,  and  cold. — Wolf  flesh  and  buffalo  hide. — Painful  con- 
sequences of  eating  cacti. — A  feast  of  mule  meat  after  seven  days'  starvation. — 
Camp  at  the  Taos  trail. — The  adjacent  country. — Strict  guard. — A  chase. — The 
meet  reward  for  Treason. 

On  the  16th  of  Feb.,  my  stock  of  ammunition  having  failed,  I  proceeded 
to  Fort  Lancaster  for  a  fresh  supply,  where  I  encountered  a  Texan  recruit- 
ing officer,  sporting  a  Colonel's  commission,  that  bore  the  signature  of 
"  Ham  Houston,"  President  of  the  Republic. 

The  object  of  this  personage  was  to  raise  a  company  of  volunteer  rifle- 
men, to  act  in  conjunction  with  a  large  force  said  to  be  then  on  its  way  for 
the  invasion  of  Santa  Fe.  The  main  design  of  the  expedition  was  to  annoy 
the  Mexican  frontier,  intercept  their  trade,  and  force  them,  if  possible,  to 
some  terms  by  which  a  peace  might  be  secured  between  the  two  countries. 

The  proposed  rifle  company  was  to  be  vested  with  discretionary  powers, 
and  perform  the  duties  of  a  scouting  party  to  the  main  army.  Each  of  its 
members  was  to  be  regularly  enlisted  for  the  term  of  nine  months, — armed 
with  a  good  rifle  and  pistols,  and  mounted  upon  a  stout,  serviceable  horse. 

Great  inducements,  by  way  of  promises,  were  also  held  out,  to  secure  a 
prompt  and  ready  enlistment ;  and,  in  fact,  the  whole  affair  was  represented 
in  a  light  so  favorable,  few  possessed  of  the  necessary  means  for  equipping 
themselves  refused  to  enter  their  names  upon  the  muster-roll,  and  rally 
beneath  the  banner  of  the  Lone  Star. 

One  thing,  however,  served  to  awaken  in  the  bosom  of  each  the  genuine 
martial  spirit,  more  than  all  the  eloquence  of  the  fluent  Colonel ; — this  was 
the  unfurlment  of  the  identical  flag,  bullet-pierced  and  tattered,  that  had 
stood  as  the  genius  of  victory  at  the  sanguinary  battle  of  Corpus  Christi,  in 
the  early  days  of  the  Texan  revolution. 

Who  could  refuse  to  respond  favorably  to  a  call  backed  by  arguments  so 
potent  ? — not  I. 

Soon  after  Colonel  Warfield,  for  such  was  the  officer's  name,  set  out  on 
his  return  to  the  scene  of  intended  operations,  accompanied  by  some  twelve 
or  fifteen  men,  having  named  for  his  rendezvous  a  point  within  the  Mexi- 
can territory,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Rio  de  las  Animas  and  the  waters 
of  the  Arkansas.  Circumstances  were  such  at  the  time  it  was  inconve- 
nient for  me  to  leave,  and  eight  or  ten  days  intervened  before  my  departure  t<s 
join  the  expedition. 


NO  FANCY  SKETCH.  245 

Meanwhile,  it  stormed  almost  incessantly,  and  the  prairies  presented 
naught  save  one  vast  expanse  of  gloomy  desolation  covered  with  deep  and 
trackless  snow. 

The  distance  to  be  travelled  was  not  far  from  two  hundred  miles,  through 
a  country  inhabited  only  by  wild  beasts  and  strolling  savages.      Yet,  no- 
thing daunted  by  the  cheerless  aspect  of  affairs,  having  completed  my  ar- 
rangements, I  improved  the  first  fair  day  to  launch  forth  upon  the  drear 
waste. 

Relying  upon  the  great  abundance  of  game  usually  encountered  en  route, 
I  took  but  a  small  supply  of  provisions,  as,  fully  equipped,  with  rifle,  pistols, 
butcher-knife,  and  other  requisites,  I  mounted  my  horse,  and,  solitary  and 
alone,  commenced  the  long  journey  before  me. 

Hurrying  on  as  fast  as  the  nature  of  the  case  would  admit,  in  the  after- 
noon of  the  second  day,  an  object,  several  miles  in  advance,  arrested  my 
attention.  Suspicious  of  danger,  but  anxious  to  know  its  character  and  ex- 
tent, I  cautiously  approached  and  was  gratified  to  find  it,  instead  of  the 
lurking  savage  my  imagination  had  depicted,  a  white  man,  hastening  with 
eagerness  to  greet  me. 

He  was  on  foot,  and  looked  way-worn  and  weary  to  a  deplorable  extent. 
His  story  was  soon  told.  He  was  the  bearer  of  despatches  from  the  Arkan- 
sas to  Colonel  Warfield, — and  being  compelled  to  abandon  his  mule  by  the 
way,  on  account  of  the  depth  of  snow,  had  proceeded  thus  far  on  foot,  and, 
for  the  last  three  days  had  been  without  eating,  in  the  tedious  performance 
of  the  duty  committed  to  his  trust. 

Hearing  this,  I  invited  him  to  a  creek  near  by,  where  I  immediately 
struck  camp,  and  laid  before  him  my  small  stock  of  eatables,  with  the  as- 
surance it  was  at  his  disposal. 

The  speedy  disappearance  of  the  scanty  supply,  attested  the  keenness  of 
his  appetite,  and  left  us  both  in  a  state  of  utter  want. 

On  learning  that  Colonel  W.  had  left  for  the  Arkansas  several  days 
since,  and  now  most  probably  had  reached  his  destination,  my  new  ac- 
quaintance concluded  to  retrace  his  steps  and  bear  me  company. 

The  next  morning  we  arose  breakfastless  and  resumed  our  journey, 
trusting  to  a  kind  Providence  and  our  rifles  to  meet  the  demands  of  nature. 
But  the  snow  became  deeper  the  farther  we  advanced,  and  prospects  more 
and  more  gloomy  at  every  step. 

Not  a  living  creature  presented  itself  to  view,  nor  even  the  least  vestige 
of  any  thing  possessing  the  breath  of  life.  Before  and  around  lay  a  vast 
spread  of  winter-bleached  desolation,  bounded  upon  our  right  by  the  distant 
mountains,  whose  towering  summits  pierced  the  blue  heavens  and  laughed 
at  the  clouds  and  storms  below,  while  in  front,  and  rear,  and  on  our  left,  the 
curving  horizon  alone  gave  limit  to  vision. 

Still  hope  bade  us  advance,  although  difficulties  continued  to  multiply  in 
threefold  ratio.  The  second  and  third  day  our  progress  did  not  exceed 
twelve  miles,  and  yet  we  had  gone  so  far  retreat  or  advance  seemed  alike 
hopeless. 

Starvation  stared  us  in  the  face,  and  continued  travel  through  snow, 
qfttimes  waist  deep,  reduced  our  strength  and  wasted  our  spirits. 

On  the  fourth  day,  however,  the  weather  having  become  more  favorable , 


246  THE  CHANCE  SHOT. 

we  were  enabled  to  make  further  headway  than  the  preceding  one.  We 
also  saw  a  few  ravens,  but  they,  as  if  conscious  of  our  desperate  condition, 
cautiously  avoided  coming  within  gun-shot ; — a  big  rabbit  likewise  showed 
itself  in  the  distance,  but,  being  at  the  top  of  its  speed,  disappeared  almost 
as  soon  as  seen  ; — thus  we  were  again  doomed  to  go  supperless  to  bed  and 
feast  upon  the  well-furnished  tables  of  dreams,  which,  though  they  please 
the  fancy  during  their  continuance,  serve  only  to  increase  the  appetite 
and  stimulate  its  cravings. 

On  the  morning  of  the  fifth  day,  as  we  arose  to  continue  our  journey, 
determined  to  hold  out  as  long  as  possible,  the  haggard  looks  of  my  com- 
rade excited   my   compassion,   and  wishing  to   cheer  him,  I  observed, 

"  Well,  what  would  you  think  were  I  to  predict  for  us  a  good  supper  to- 
night v* 

*  Really,"  said  he,  "  I  don't  know.  But  there's  a  poor  show  for  its  ful- 
filment, any  how." 

u  We  shall  have  one,  I  know  it." 

"  God  send  we  may.     But,  pray,  where  is  it  to  come  from. 

"  I  am  quite  confident  we  shall  find  game.  If  so,  as  my  rifle  bears  the 
name  of  Old  Straightener,  and  it  has  never  been  known  to  fail  in  a  case  oi 
emergency,  I  know  she  will  maintain  her  ancient  honor." 

"  What  if  we  don't  find  game )     Then  how." 

"  Why,  here's  my  horse.  It  will  be  of  no  service  to  me  if  I  am  to  die 
from  starvation,  hi  case  we  find  nothing,  its  carcase  shall  save  our  lives." 

u  Horse  meat  or  any  thing  else  wouldn't  go  bad,  just  at  this  time." 

Thus  resolved,  we  continued  our  way,  plodding  along  in  gloomy  silence, 
brooding  over  the  sad  realities  of  our  deplorable  situation, — ever  and  anon, 
scanning  the  vacant  expanse,  in  the  fast-waning  hope  of  looked-for  relief, 
— but  as  yet  looked  for  in  vain. 

The  day  was  fast  verging  to  a  close,  and  I  was  summoning  a  sufficien- 
cy of  fortitude  to  submit  to  the  sacrifice  of  my  favorite  beast,  and  rumi- 
nating upon  the  many  difficulties  and  inconveniences  that  must  result 
from  such  a  step,  volving  and  revolving  all  the  pros  and  cons  the  case 
admitted  of,  when  I  was  roused  from  my  reverie  by  the  shrill  voice  of  my 
comrade,  who  joyfully  exclaimed, 

"Look  ! — look !  A  buffalo  !" — at  the  same  time  pointing  in  the  direc- 
tion it  appeared. 

I  looked,  and  sure  enough  a  venerable  old  bull  presented  himself  a  few 
hundred  yards  to  the  right. 

"  Aye,  aye,  my  hearty  !  There's  a  chance  for  Old  Straightener  !"  said 
I,  as,  lowering  my  rifle,  I  started  towards  the  intended  victim. 

II  Don't  forget,"  cried  my  comrade,  u  that  all  my  hopes  of  salvation  are 
centred  in  your  rifle-ball." 

The  animal  was  feeding  quietly,  and  I  was  enabled  to  approach  within 
some  sixty  yards  of  him,  when  levelling,  I  pulled  trigger, — but  the  cap, 
being  damp,  burst  without  a  discharge.  The  noise  caught  the  quick  ear 
of  the  buffalo,  and  caused  him  to  look  round  ; — however,  seeing  nothing 
to  excite  his  alarm,  he  soon  resumed  an  employment  more  agreeable  to 
his  taste  than  needless  vigilance. 

Having  put  fresh  powder  into  the  tube,  and  supplied  it  with  another  cap 
I  was  again  raising  to  take  aim,  and  had  brought  my  piece  nearly  half, 


NOTICE  OF  THE  ROUTE.  247 

shoulderward,  when  it  unceremoniously  discharged  itself,  burying  its  ball 
in  the  lights  of  the  buffalo — the  very  spot  I  should  have  selected  had  it  been 
optional  with  myself.     The  old  fellow  staggered  a  few  steps  and  fell  dead ! 

My  companion  coming  up,  we  soon  completed  the  process  of  butchering, 
and,  after  furnishing  ourselves  with  an  ample  supply  of  choice  beef,  pro- 
ceeded to  a  neighboring  creek,  where,  finding  a  few  sticks  of  drift-wood,  a 
fire  was  quickly  kindled,  and  we  ended  our  fast  of  five  successive  days  and 
nights  with  feasting  and  glad  hearts. 

I  have  always  regarded  this  event  as  a  special  Providence,  and  ever  re- 
vert to  it  with  no  ordinary  feelings  of  gratitude.  Had  the  ball,  thus  acci- 
dentally discharged,  missed  the  animal,  or  had  it  only  wounded  him,  in  all 
human  probability,  becoming  alarmed  at  the  presence  of  danger,  and 
prompted  by  the  instinct  common  to  the  species,  he  would  soon  have  been 
beyond  the  reach  of  pursuit,  leaving  me  to  the  dernier  resort  of  slaughter- 
ing my  horse  or  perishing  among  the  snows  and  chill  blasts  of  the  prairie. 

Enfeebled  as  we  were  from  continued  toil  and  suffering,  we  could  have 
scarcely  held  out  a  day  longer,  and  even  the  partial  relief  afforded  by  a 
poor  supply  of  horse  flesh,  left,  as  we  would  have  been,  to  travel  on  foot  and 
carry  our  beds,  guns,  and  provisions,  must  have  served  only  to  prolong  our 
miseries  a  brief  space,  finally  to  meet  the  inevitable  fate  that  threatened 
us  !  as  this  solitary  buffalo  was  the  only  living  creature  that  met  our  view 
during  the  entire  journey. 

I  have  never  consented  to  dispose  of  the  rough-looking  piece  long  pre- 
viously christened  "  Old  Straightener,"  and,  when  asked  the  reason,  have 
uniformly  replied,  "  It  is  the  only  gun  I  ever  saw  or  heard  of  that  has  kill- 
ed game  of  its  own  accord  I 

The  second  day  succeeding  this  occurrence,  my  companion  left  me  to  ob- 
tain his  mule,  and  I  completed  the  remainder  of  my  journey  alone, — arriving 
the  appointed  rendezvous  late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  20th  of  March. 

The  country  travelled  over,  from  the  Platte  to  the  Arkansas,  near  the 
mouth  of  Fontaine  qui  Bouit,  has  been  fully  described  in  former  pages. 

My  route,  from  the  mouth  of  this  stream,  followed  the  Arkansas  for  some 
forty  miles.  The  landscape,  back  from  the  river- bottoms,  was  quite  undu- 
lating, presenting  upon  the  left  a  superfice  of  gravel,  clay,  and  sand,  mixed 
with  vegetable  matter ;  and,  upon  the  right,  a  light,  sandy  soil,  somewhat 
sterile  and  unproductive. 

Many  rich  spots  of  a  deep  bluish  loam  meet  the  eye  of  the  traveller,  in- 
terspersed with  spreads  of  naked  sand,  or  clay  whitened  by  exuding  salts,  or 
clothed  in  dwarhsh  grass ;  among  which  numerous  clusters  of  absinthe, 
frequently  five  or  six  feet  high,  are  seen  in  almost  every  direction. 

The  country,  as  a  general  thing,  is  evidently  ill-adapted  to  other  than 
grazing  purposes. 

Two  broad  beds  of  sand-creeks  are  passed  upon  the  left,  a  few  miles  be- 
low Fontaine  qui  Bouit,  one  of  which  is  Black  Squirrel  creek,  and  the  other 
-is  known  as  the  Wolf's  Den.  Upon  the  right,  the  Rio  San  Carlos,  Cor- 
nua  Virda,  Apache,  and  Huaquetorie,  after  tracing  their  serpentine  courses 
from  the  Taos  Mountains,  commingle  with  the  Arkansas. 

Some  six  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Fontaine  qui  Bouit  are  the  ruins  of 


248  PRIMARY  MOVEMENTS. 

an  old  fort,  occupied  several  years  since  by  one  Capt.  Grant  as  a  trading 
post. 

The  last  of  my  course,  being  upon  the  side  of  the  river,  was  much  im- 
peded by  mud ;  and,  although  the  surface  was  generally  bare,  travelling 
was  even  more  tedious  than  it  had  been  at  any  time  hitherto. 

After  a  series  of  suffering  and  deprivation  so  continued  and  severe,  right 
gladly  did  I  hail  the  Lone  Star  banner  upon  the  opposite  shore,  as  their  point 
of  present  termination. 

Fording  the  Arkansas  about  a  mile  above  the  Texan  encampment,  I 
found  it  nearly  swimming  deep,  with  a  swift  and  muddy  current  over  a  bed 
of  quicksand  and  gravel. 

My  appearance  created  no  little  surprise  among  all  present,  as  they  had 
several  days  since  numbered  me  with  those  who  had  volunteered  with 
great  readiness,  so  far  as  promises  were  concerned ;  but,  When  peuform- 
ances  were  required,  "came  up  missing." 

I  must  confess,  however,  to  great  disappointment  in  the  diminutive  force 
that  here  met  my  view,  which  consisted  of  only  twenty-four  men,  includ- 
ing officers — all  told.  But  several  accessions  were  expected,  sufficient  to 
swell  the  number  to  fifty -five  or  sixty.  A  party  of  eighty  volunteers  from 
the  States  were  to  meet  us  at  the  "  Crossing "  of  the  Arkansas,  on  the 
Santa  Fe  trail,  together  with  a  detachment  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  from 
Texas ;  and,  with  these  reinforcements,  it  was  confidently  asserted  we 
would  be  equal  to  the  combined  force  of  all  New  Mexico. 

I  immediately  reported  myself  to  the  commanding  officer,  and  was  kindly 
welcomed,  with  the  remark, 

*  Well,  sir,  you  are  just  in  time.  Another  day  and  you  would  have 
been  too  late.     We  move  camp  to-morrow  morning." 

(A  pity  it  was  I  had  not  been  too  late  !) 

Withdrawing  from  the  conference,  the  lapse  of  a  few  moments  gave  me 
an  opportunity  to  look  around  and  see  among  whom  I  had  fallen. 

It  would  have  been  hard  to  scare  up  a  more  motley  group  of  humanity  in 
any  place  this  side  of  Mexico.  Each  individual  presented  a  uniform  as 
varied  as  the  imagination  could  depict,  though  tallying  well  with  the  gene- 
ral appearance  of  the  whole  company — it  was  a  uniform  of  rags ! 

Still  from  beneath  the  dusky  visages,  half  obscured  by  beards  to  which 
the  kindly  operations  of  their  razors  had  been  for  weeks  and  even  months 
a  stranger,  I  detected  the  frank  expression  indicating  the  generous- 
hearted  mountaineer,  and  began  to  feel  at  home,  notwithstanding  the  fast- 
rising  feelings  of  regret  that  fortune  had  thrown  me  in  their  way. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  following  day  we  were  drawn  up  in  line  and 
divided  into  two  detachments, — one  consisting  of  ten,  and  the  other  of 
fourteen  men.  The  first  of  these,  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Warfield, 
were  to  proceed  to  the  Crossing  of  the  Arkansas,  and  await  the  arrival 
of  the  main  army,  or  otherwise  act  as  circumstances  suggested,  while  the 
second,  headed  by  a  lieutenant,  marched  up  the  Rio  de  las  Animas  to 
the  Toas  trail,  to  perform  the  duties  of  a  corps  of  observation  until  further 
orders. 

It  was  my  lot  to  accompany  the  latter,  and  we  promptly  commenced 
movement. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  DE  LAS  ANIMAS.  249 

After  riding  a  few  miles  we  struck  the  Timpa,  a  small  affluent  of  the 
Arkansas,  up  which  we  travelled  till  the  next  day  about  noon,  when,  coming 
to  an  Indian  trail  leading  south-southwest  to  the  de  las  Animas,  we  follow- 
ed it  and  reached  the  latter  stream  on  the  27th  of  March ;  continuing  up 
the  de  las  Animas,  three  days  subsequently  we  arrived  at  our  destination. 

The  country  passed  over  at  the  commencement  of  our  journey,  for  fifteen 
or  twenty  miles,  was  a  slightly  undulating  prairie,  of  a  sandy  soil,  with 
few  indications  of  productiveness. 

The  Timpa  is  entirely  destitute  of  timber,  and  its  valley,  though  plen- 
tiful in  absinthe,  is  scarcely  superior  to  the  surrounding  prairie.  Sev- 
eral miles  previous  to  leaving  it,  our  course  lay  between  two  ridges  of 
forbidding  and  sterile  hills,  nearly  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  affording 
only  now  and  then  a  few  scraggy  cedars  and  shrubs.  Indeed,  but  very  lit- 
tle good  land  is  found  in  this  vicinity. 

On  diverging  from  the  Timpa  the  trail  crossed  a  high,  arid  prairie, 
which  was  furrowed  by  deep  ravines,  and  ridged  by  long  rolling*  hills, 
that  were  occasionally  surmounted  by  cedars  and  pinions,  until  it  struck 
the  de  las  Animas. 

The  watercourses  through  this  section  are  rare,  and  sparsely  timber- 
ed, being  for  the  most  part  shut  in  by  high  banks  of  earth  or  lofty 
walls  of  precipitous  rock,  varying  in  altitude,  and  presenting  vast  chasms, 
passable  only  at  certain  points.  Their  valleys  are  narrow,  but  possess 
a  fertile  soil  which  is  to  some  extent  susceptible  of  cultivation,  while 
many  parts  of  the  adjacent  prairies  might  answer  for  grazing  purposes. 

The  prevailing  rock,  so  far  as  my  observation  extended,  was  coarse- 
grained granite  and  limestone.  I  noticed  at  places  along  the  creek  val- 
leys occasional  spots  of  calcareous  earth  ;  and,  in  fact,  their  soils  general- 
ly indicated  the  presence  of  calcium  in  their  compound,  to  no  incon- 
siderable extent. 

The  valley  of  the  Rio  de  las  Animas  was  by  far  the  most  interesting 
and  romantic  section  of  country  we  had  as  yet  entered  upon  in  the  Mexi- 
can, or,  as  it  is  now  claimed,  Texan  territory.  .  This  stream,  in  English, 
bears  the  name  of  Purgatory  creek ;  in  French,  it  is  known  as  the  Piquer 
Veau,  or  Water  of  Suffering ;  in  Indian,  it  is  called  the  Wild  River,  and  in 
Spanish,  it  is  christened  by  the  term  above  used,  which  means  the  River 
of  Souls. 

It  rises  in  the  Taos  Mountains  by  two  separate  heads,  a  little  south 
of  the  Spanish  Peaks,  and  emerges  from  its  rugged  birth-place  into  the 
plains,  where  the  two  branches  trace  their  way  for  some  fifty  miles  and 
then  unite  to  form  one  stream.  These  forks  are  passably  well  timbered,  and 
are  skirted  at  intervals  with  rich  bottoms ;  but  the  circumjacent  country  is 
dry,  rolling,  and  generally  barren. 

A  short  distance  below  their  confluence  the  river  cuts  its  way  through 
an  expanse  of  high,  barren  table  lands,  for  sixty  or  sixty-five  miles,  leaving 
abrupt  walls  of  rock  and  earth  on  both  sides,  piled  to  a  varied  height  of 
from  fifty  to  three  or  four  hundred  feet,  surmounted  by  groves  of  cedar  and 
pinion,  interspersed  with  broad  pavements  of  naked  rock,  nude  wastub  o+ 
stiff  sun-baked  clay,  and  occasional  clusters  of  coarse  grass. 


250  AGONIZING  CONDITION. 

These  walls  are  often  perpendicular,  though  they  generally  accline 
somewhat,  and  are  ornamented  with  scattering  shrubs  and  cedars,  which 
in  vain  seek  to  hide  the  forbidding  deformity  of  nature. 

They  frequently  intrude  to  the  very  water's  edge,  and  pile  at  their  feet 
and  in  the  foaming  current  huge  masses  of  rock,  strown  about  in  all  the 
wild  disorder  of  savage  scenery ;  then,  expanding  at  brief  intervals,  they 
picture  many  sweet,  enchanting  spots,  that  smile  and  bloom  in  unfading 
loveliness,  where  angels  might  recline,  and,  listening  to  the  chime  of  their 
own  voices,  echoed  from  rock  to  rock  and  reverberated  with  unheard-of 
melody,  might  fancy  themselves  in  heaven ;  then  again  closing,  to  open  in 
like  manner  at  some  favored  point,  till  they  finally  give  place  to  a  broad 
and  beautiful  valley,  from  one  to  three  miles  in  width,  of  unsurpassed  fer- 
tility, and  abounding  at  the  proper  season  in  every  variety  of  fruit  and 
flower  known  to  the  country,  which,  mingling  amid  the  the  scattering  cot- 
tonwoods,  (free  from  under-brush  and  mimicing  in  their  arrangement  the 
regularity  of  art,)  seem  to  portray  the  fabled  fields  of  Elysian  bliss. 

This  valley  extends  from  the  mouth  of  the  canon  to  the  junction  of  the  de 
las  Animas  with  the  Arkansas — a  distance  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles ;  for 
ten  or  fifteen  of  which  it  is  skirted  with  receding  hills,  that  maintain  their 
stern  sublimity  till  they  at  length  become  swallowed  up  in  the  far-spreading 
prairie. 

This  is  a  favorite  resort  for  deer,  antelope,  and  turkey,  which  are  found 
in  great  numbers,  gambolling  amid  its  varied  beauties,  or  winding  along  its 
narrow  defiles  and  forbidden  recesses. 

We  entered  the  canon  through  a  narrow  and  steep  declivity,  formed  by 
a  small  stream,  which  was  shut  in  by  continuous  cliffs,  that  increased  in 
height  as  they  approached  their  lofty  counterparts  immuring  the  angry 
river. 

After  winding  a  day  and  a  half  among  the  crags  and  confused  masses, 
which  constantly  intervened  to  impede  our  way,  in  vain  searching  for  an 
egress,  we  found  it  impossible  to  proceed  further,  and  were  forced  to  climb 
the  almost  vertical  bank,  at  an  ascent  of  five  or  six  hundred  feet, — frequently 
lifting  our  horses  over  the  rocks  by  means  of  ropes  attached  to  their  bodies 
and  drawn  from  the  impending  summit ; — this  tedious  process  occupied 
nearly  a  day  in  its  completion,  and  left  us  upon  the  lateral  table  land  ex- 
hausted in  strength  and  worn  down  with  fatigue. 

We  were  eleven  days  en  route,  during  which  time  we  suffered  greatly 
from  the  severity  of  the  weather,  hunger,  toil,  and  watching. 

The  air  was  bleak,  the  winds  cold  and  piercing,  and  the  sky  almost 
continually  over-cast  with  clouds,  while  two  or  three  snow  storms  contri- 
buted their  mite  to  swell  the  catalogue  of  comfortless  hours. 

Our  horses,  too,%  had  become  so  exhausted  from  hard  fare  and  previous 
service,  we  were  necessitated  to  travel  on  foot  for  most  of  the  distance.  But 
the  grand  climax  of  miseries  was  experienced  through  lack  of  food. 

A  scanty  supply  of  buffalo  meat,  taken  with  us  at  the  outset,  was  consumed 
at  the  next  meal,  and  we  were  left  without  one  morsel  to  appease  the  gnaw- 
ings  of  appetite  for  the  two  days  and  three  nights  succeeding. 

A  straggling  wolf  that  chance  threw  in  our  way,  at  the  expiration  of  this 


SPY  CAMP.  251 

time,  most  luckily  furnished  us  with  a  breakfast,  though  nothing  further 
entered  our  mouths  till  the  morning  of  the  third  day  from  this,  when,  com- 
ing to  the  site  of  a  recent  Indian  encampment,  we  succeeded  in  gathering 
a  lew  pieces  of  dry  buffalo  hide,  that  lay  scattered  about — so  hard  and  tough 
the  wolves  had  tried  in  vain  to  gnaw  them ;  these,  after  being  boiled  some 
twelve  or  fourteen  hours,  afforded  us  a  paltry  substitute  for  something  bet- 
ter, but  of  so  glutinous  a  nature  it  almost  cemented  the  teeth  employed  in 
its  mastication. 

The  two  days  following  we  were  again  doomed  to  go  hungry  and  began 
to  talk  seriously  of  the  imminent  danger  of  starving  to  death. 

This  interval  had  brought  us  into  the  canon  of  de  las  Aminas,  where, 
having  struck  camp,  several  of  the  men  sought  a  temporary  respite  from 
the  torments  of  hunger  by  eating  roasted  cacti; — the  article  at  first  tasted 
well,  and  from  the  recommendation  of  the  essayists,  several  were  induced 
to  partake  of  it  quite  heartily. 

But  the  lapse  of  a  brief  hour  or  two  brought  with  it  the  "  tug  of  war," 
when  the  inherent  properties  of  the  cacti  began  to  have  their  effect  upon 
the  enervated  systems  of  the  participants. 

The  painful  consequences  of 'this  strange  diet  at  first  were  a  weakness 
in  the  joints,  succeeded  by  a  severe  trembling  and  a  desire  to  vomit,  accom- 
panied with  an  almost  insufferable  pain  in  the  stomach  and  bowels. 

Three  or  four  of  the  unfortunate  sufferers  were  in  such  extreme  pain  they 
rolled  upon  the  ground  for  agony,  with  countenances  writhing  in  every  im- 
aginable shape  of  frightful  distortion. 

Hereupon  it  was  decided  to  sacrifice  one  of  our  animals  as  a  last  resort, 
which  was  promptly  done,  and  we  ended  our  fast  of  nearly  seven  days'  con- 
tinuance with  a  feast  of  mule  meat. 

I  had  heretofore  cherished  a  decided  repugnance  to  this  kind  of  food,  but 
am  in  justice  bound  to  say,  it  proved  both  sweet  and  tender,  and  scarcely 
inferior  to  beef.  The  supply  thus  obtained  lasted  till  we  came  among  buf- 
falo, when  ample  amends  were  made  for  previous  abstinence. 

The  only  game  encountered  during  the  march  was  an  occasional  band  of 
antelope  or  wild  horses,  whose  extreme  vigilance  and  caution  set  at  defi 
ance  all  attempts  to  approach  them,  and  sported  at  the  phrensy  of  our  des- 
perate efforts. 

Our  camp,  at  the  termination  of  this  arduous  and  eventful  journey,  was 
in  a  small  grove  of  cottonwood,  about  eigh:;  hundred  yards  below  the  point 
at  which  the  trail,  from  Bent's  Fort  to  Taos,  crosses  the  right  hand  fork  of 
the  de  las  Animas. 

It  was  faced  on  the  north  by  a  broad  sandy  prairie,  gently  undulating, 
that,  at  intervals,  disclosed  a  good  soil,  and  led  to  a  distant  ridge  of  pine-clad 
hills ;  while  from  the  west,  at  a  distance  of  some  twenty  or  thirty  miles, 
the  proud  and  isolated  summits  of  the  Spanish  Peaks,  or  Huaquetories, 
arose  to  view,  and  from  the  southwest,  the  lofty  and  noble  tierras  templadas 
that  skirt  the  heads  of  the  Cimarone  and  Colorado,  whose  broad  tops 
showed  themselves  in  beautiful  contrast  with  the  sharp,  snow-clad  moun- 
tain forming  the  eastern  boundary  to  the  valley  of  Taos ;  then,  upon  thfl 


252  REWARD  OF  TREASON. 

south  and  east,  a  steep  bank,  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet  high,  shut  us  from 
the  contiguous  plain. 

While  here,  we  kept  strict  and  constant  guard,  in  view  of  anticipated 
movements  of  the  enemy,  as,  from  certain  information  previously  obtained, 
we  knew  him  to  be  quartered  in  full  force  at  the  nearest  seitlements. 

Our  daily  and  hourly  expectation  was  to  meet  a  detachment  of  the  Mex- 
ican army,  then  out  for  the  purpose  of  reconnoitering  ;  and,  weak  as  we 
were  in  point  of  numbers,  we  felt  quite  equal  to  a  hundred  such  soldiers, 
and  were  anxious  for  a  trial  of  arms. 

Our  stay  was  prolonged  for  three  or  four  weeks,  and  the  abundance  of 
choice  buffalo  meat  that  continued  to  grace  our  larder,  with  the  rank  growth 
of  fresh  grass  for  the  sustenance  of  our  animals,  imparted  an  air  of  cheer- 
fulness and  thrift  both  to  man  and  beast. 

Nothing  occurred  worthy  of  note  during  the  interval,  save  the  following 
incident.  One  day,  late  in  the  afternoon,  our  sentinels  announced  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  small  party  of  Mexicans  at  the  crossing,  and  immediate  pre- 
parations were  made  for  an  attack.  Before  these  could  be  completed,  how- 
ever, our  expected  enemy  was  reported  as  having  raised  camp  and  being 
likely  to  escape  by  a  precipitate  retreat  towards  the  Arkansas.  Six  men, 
mounted  upon  fleet  horses,  were  immediately  detached  in  pursuit, — of  whom 
I  was  one. 

The  chase  continued  for  several  miles,  and  terminated  in  our  overhaul- 
ing three  persons, — but,  instead  of  Mexicans,  two  of  them  were  Americans, 
and  the  other  an  Englishman,  on  their  way  to  the  United  States  with  two 
pack  mules  heavily  laden  with  gold  and  silver. 

On  receiving  from  them  information  of  the  disposition  and  probable 
whereabouts  of  the  Mexican  forces,  they  were  permitted  to  depart  unmo- 
lested,— a  circumstance  not  likely  to  have  happened  had  we  been  the  gang 
of  "  lawless  desperadoes"  so  hideously  depicted  in  several  of  the  public 
prints  of  the  day,  as  I  have  since  learned. 

An  item  of  the  intelligence  received  through  them,  gave  us  mingled  sen- 
sations of  pain  and  pleasure. 

An  European  Spaniard, — who  had  made  one  of  the  Texan  army  in  its 
unfortunate  expedition  against  Santa  Fe,  in  the  fall  of  1842,  and  had  been 
retained  a  prisoner  of  war  for  a  number  of  months  subsequent,  having  ef- 
fected his  escape  to  the  Indian  country, — on  hearing  of  the  recent  move- 
ments of  the  Texans  under  Col.  Warfield,  had  come  and  reported  himself 
ready  again  to  enlist. 

On  the  strength  of  this  assurance  he  was  partially  admitted  to  confidence, 
— a  thing  rarely  to  be  reposed  in  any  one  of  Spanish  extraction.  The  re- 
sult was,  that,  after  gleaning  all  the  information  circumstances  would  ad- 
mit of,  he  proceeded,  post  haste  to  Santa  Fe,  and  laid  the  whole  affair  before 
Gen.  Armijo,  the  Mexican  Governor,  in  hopes  of  a  handsome  rewTard. 

The  old  Governor,  however,  had  received  more  exact  intelligence,  with 
the  names  and  number  of  volunteers  composing  the  party  under  Col.  W., 
(furnished  him  through  the  medium  of  certain  Americans,  base  enough  in 
principle  and  sordid  enough  in  motive,  to  act  as  his  spies,  for  a  paltry  bribe 
in  the  shape  of  stipulated  remissions  of  tariff  duties  on  imported  goods,  etc.,) 
and  treated  the  traitor  to  his  cause  quite  cavalieriv, — not  hesitating  to  tell 


NATURE  OF  THE  COUNTRY.  ^53 

him  he  lied,  and  even  accuse  him  of  being  a  Texan  spy — threatening  «  try 
and  execute  him  as  such  ! 

Were  this  ever  the  reward  of  treason,  how  few  would  be  traitors  ! 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

March  down  the  Cimarone. — Junction  of  the  two  divisions. — Country  between  the 
de  las  Animas  and  the  Cimarone. — Perilous  descent. — Canon  of  the  Cimarone.— 
Soil  and  prevailing  rock. — A  fort. — Grandeur  and  sublimity  of  scenery. — Beauty  of 
rocks. — Cimarone  of  the  plain. — Fruits  and  game. — Wide  -spread  desolation. — A 
dreary  country. — Summer  on  the  Desert. — Remarks. — Encounter  with  Indians. — 
Nature's  nobleman. — Wild  horses  and  different  modes  of  catching  them. — Failure  of 
expected  reinforcements. — March  into  the  enemy's  country. — Ancient  engravings 
upon  a  rock. — Boy  in  the  wolf's  den. — A  man  lost. — Forced  march. — Torment  of 
thirst. — Remarks.— The  lost  found. — Expulsion  for  cowardice, — its  effect. 

Soon  after  the  incident  related  at  the  close  of  the  preceding  chapter,  an 
express  arrived  from  the  Col.  commandant,  with  dispatches  ordering  our 
division  to  join  him  at  a  small  creek  near  the  Pilot  Buttes,  or  u  Rabbit 
Ears,"  two  noted  landmarks  situated  some  forty  miles  above  the  Santa  Fe 
trail,  and  nearly  equidistant  between  the  Arkansas  and  Cimarone. 

We  accordingly  took  up  our  line  of  march  and  proceeded  nearly  due 
south  for  two  days  and  a  half,  to  the  Cimarone  ;  thence,  down  the  valley  of 
the  latter,  five  days'  travel  to  the  Santa  Fe  trail,  and  thence,  west-north- 
west, one  day  and  a  half  to  the  place  of  rendezvous,  which  we  found  with- 
out difficulty  after  a  journey  of  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles. 

Between  the  de  las  Animas  and  Cimarone,  we  crossed  a  long  reach  of 
arid  prairie,  slightly  undulating  and  generally  barren,  with  the  exception 
of  small  fertile  spots  among  the  hills,  here  and  there,  clothed  with  rank 
grasses. 

In  some  parts,  the  cacti  so  completely  covered  the  ground  that  it  was 
impossible  to  step,  for  miles  in  succession,  without  treading  upon  their 
sharp  thorns ;  in  others,  the  thick  clusters  of  absinthe  monopolized  the  vi- 
cinity of  creeks,  nearly  to  the  exclusion  of  all  dissimilar  vegetation ;  and 
yet  in  others,  though  of  more  brief  space,  naked  sterility  refused  foot  to 
aught  save  gravel  and  stiff  clay,  or  saline  efflorescences. 

The  water  of  most  of  the  streams  was  so  highly  impregnated  with  mine- 
ral salts,  it  was  often  unfit  to  drink.  The  creeks  afforded  very  little  timber, 
and  frequently  none  at  all. 

The  section  immediately  at  the  base  of  the  high  table  lands  to  the  right, 
exposed  some  beautiful  spreads  of  fertile  prairie,  well  watered  and  suitably 
timbered.  The  soil,  as  a  whole,  presented  all  the  prominent  character- 
istics of  like  portions  of  country  previously  described. 

The  prevailing  rock  was  limestone  and  sandstone,  with  various  conglo- 
merates, and  extensive  beds  of  gypsum.     I  noticed  some  very  large  speci- 


254  VALLEY  OF  THE  CIMARONE. 

mens  of  mica,  of  great  beauty  and  transparency, — one,  in  particular,  was 
nearly  a  foot  square,  and  two  inches  thick. 

The  only  indication  of  minerals  coming  under  my  notice,  was  iron  and 
salts ;  though  gold  has  been  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Hua- 
quetories,  and  silver  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  de  las  Animas, — some  very 
rich  specimens  of  the  latter  ore,  said  to  have  been  procured  in  this  region 
having  met  my  observation. 

Near  the  Cimarone  the  country  is  very  rugged  and  mountainous.  Upon 
the  right  a  lofty  expanse  of  table  land,  some  eight  hundred  or  a  thousand 
feet  high,  leads  far  off'  till  it  becomes  lost  in  the  distance  ;  while,  upon  the 
left,  the  more  elevated  tierras  templadas  of  the  Colorado,  gently  curving 
from  south  to  east,  mark  the  division  between  the  Cimarone  and  the  latter 
stream. 

Every  watercourse  is  immured  by  canons  of  craggy  rocks  that  often 
preclude  all  access  to  it  for  many  successive  miles.  The  side-hills  and 
prairie  ridges,  to  some  extent,  are  clothed  with  pines,  pinion,  and  cedars  ; 
and  the  creeks,  whenever  the  narrow  space  of  their  prison-walls  will  per- 
mit it,  afford  beautiful  groves  of  Cottonwood  and  thick  clusters  of  fruit-bear- 
ing shrubs  and  underbrush. 

Our  cour&e  for  a  number  of  miles,  previous  to  descending  to  the  valley 
of  the  Cimarone,  lay  at  the  base  of  the  table  mountain  on  the  right. 

The  entrance  to  this  valley  was  by  a  narrow  buffalo  trail,  leading  down 
a  perpendicular  wall  of  clay  and  rock,  sidelong  in  a  shelf-like  path,  barely 
wide  enough  for  a  single  horse  or  man  to  advance  carefully,  as  the  least 
misstep  might  plunge  him  down  the  abyss  to  be  dashed  in  pieces  upon 
the  sharp  fragments  detached  from  the  overhanging  cliffs. 

The  wall  thus  descended  was  from  eight  hundred  to  a  thousand  feet  in 
altitude,  and  faced  by  another  of  equal  height  at  a  distance  of  twenty-five 
or  thirty  yards. 

The  spectacle  was  grand  and  awful  beyond  description.  A  rock,  that 
broke  loose  about  midway  as  we  descended  the  pass,  fell  thundering  down 
the  frightful  steep  with  a  tremendous  crash,  and  made  the  welkin  ring 
as  it  reverberated  along  the  vast  enclosure  with  almost  deafening  clamor. 
I  have  witnessed  many  romantic  and  picturesque  scenes,  but  never  one 
so  magnificently  grand,  so  awe-inspiring  in  its  sublimity,  as  that  faintly 
delineated  in  the  preceding  sketch. 

Entering  the  canon  at  this  point,  after  wandering  a  short  distance  among 
the  huge  masses  of  broken  rock  thrown  from  its  towering  sides,  the  travel- 
ler is  ushered  into  a  valley  nearly  a  mile  broad,  shut  in  by  mural  moun- 
tains that  rise  to  a  varied  height  of  from  eight  to  fifteen  hundred  or  two 
thousand  feet,  gradually  expanding  as  he  proceeds  till  it  attains  a  width  of 
from  two  to  four  miles. 

This  valley  generally  possesses  a  very  rich  soil,  sometimes  of  a  deep, 
gravelly  mould,  and  almost  of  vermilion-like  color,  assimilating  the  famous 
redlands  of  Texas,  and,  in  appearance,  equally  fertile, — then,  a  dark  brown 
loam  obtrudes  to  view,  sustaining  a  dense  vegetation  of  lusty  growth, — 
and,  yet  again,  a  light  sandy  superstratum,  affording  but  small  indications 
of  productiveness ;  or  dimniutive  spreads  of  stiff  clay,  frowning  in  their 
own  nudity ;  or  barren  wastes,  of  less  extent,  that,  in  deep  penitence  for 


GRANDEUR  AND  LOVELINESS.  255 

their  utter  worthlessness,  exude  their  briny  tears  in  unremitting  succession, 
which,  as  the  solar  rays  strike  on  them  with  kind  intent  to  wipe  away, 
spread  o'er  their  parent  surfaces  bleached  shrouds  of  shining  salt. 

The  latter  part  of  this  description,  so  far  as  my  observation  has  extended, 
will  apply  to  nearly  the  entire  valley  of  the  Cimarone  after  it  emerges  from 
the  canon. 

The  place  at  which  this  romantic  valley  first  attains  its  full  width,  is  the 
confluence  of  a  small  tributary  to  the  main  creek,  near  an  isolated  sum- 
mit, that  protrudes  far  out  from  the  mountain  range  and  commands  the  ap- 
proaches from  either  direction. 

This  peak  is  five  or  eight  hundred  feet  high,  and  inaccessible,  except 
from  the  back  ground  by  a  gradual  acclivity  scarcely  wide  enough  for  two 
persons  to  ascend  abreast.  The  top  presents  a  small  area  of  level  surface, 
securely  defended  by  an  enclosing  wall  of  rock,  five  or  six  feet  in  height, 
raised  at  its  brow  evidently  by  the  hand  of  art.  A  better  position,  in  a 
military  point  of  view,  for  a  fortification,  is  rarely  found.  Fifty  men,  suit- 
ably provisioned  and  equipped,  might  successfully  defend  it  against  an  army 
of  thousands. 

The  rocks  of  this  vicinity  exhibit  a  more  striking  variety  of  color  than 
any  I  ever  before  witnessed.  Their  predominant  classification  enumerates 
granite,  sandstone  (generally  ferruginous,)  limestone,  and  slate.  These 
were  disclosed  in  abrupt  escarpments  of  several  hundred  feet  altitude,  or 
in  isolated,  quadrangular  masses  with  vertical  sides,  assuming  the  appear- 
ance of  gigantic  fortifications,  temples  and  palaces ; — or  in  a  more  multi- 
form aspect,  now  portraying  vast  walls  with  narrow  basements,  that,  diver- 
ging from  the  mountains,  intersect  the  valley  at  intervals  from  side  to  side, 
except,  perchance,  at  a  well-formed  gateway, — now,  towering  monuments, 
spires,  and  pyramids,  and  again  sculptured  statues  of  men  and  beasts. 

All  these  magnificent  representations  are  gorgeously  decked  with  parti- 
colored strata  lying  tier  above  tier,  in  regular  order,  some  white,  others 
black,  blue,  brown,  green,  gray,  yellow,  red,  purple,  or  orange,  and  so 
strangely  intermingled  that  they  cannot  fail  to  excite  the  admiration  of 
every  beholder. 

The  Cimarone  rises  in  the  range  of  table  lands  thirty-five  or  forty  miles 
east-southeast  of  Taos,  and,  after  following  a  serpentine  course  for  nearly 
six  hundred  miles,  empties  into  the  Arkansas  some  distance  above  Fort 
Gibson.  As  it  emerges  from  the  mountains,  (where  it  is  a  stream  of  con- 
iderable  depth  and  a  rapid  current,  confined  to  a  narrow  space  between 
high  clayey  banks,  with  a  bed  of  rock  and  pebbles,)  it  expands  to  a  great 
width,  and,  in  a  short  distance,  its  waters  become  brackish  and  unfit  for 
use,  till  they  finally  disappear  among  the  quicksands,  and  leave  a  dreary 
waste  of  worse  than  emptiness,  to  mark  the  course  of  the  transient  vol- 
umes produced  by  the  melting  snows  of  spring  and  the  annual  rains  of 
autumn. 

During  its  course  through  the  Great  American  Desert,  not  a  tree  or 
shrub  graces  its  banks.  Its  mountain  valley,  however,  is  ornamented  with 
numerous  and  beautiful  groves  of  cottonwood,  that  present  among  their 
underbrush  a  profuse  abundance  of  plum,  cherry,  gooseberry,  and  cur- 
rant bushes,  with  grape  vines ;  while  the  adjoining  hills  afford  oak,  pine, 
pinion,  and  cedar. 

22* 


256  HOME  OF  DESOLATION. 

Here  also  game  abounds  in  great  quantities,  including,  buffalo,  wild 
horses,  deer,  antelope,  elk,  and  turkeys. 

We  frequently  encountered  four  or  five  hundred  head  of  wild  horses  in 
a  single  band,  and  turkeys  showed  themselves  in  every  direction. 

The  pleasant  moonlight  nights,  that  favored  our  journey  through  this 
delightful  valley,  were  the  source  of  great  success  in  turkey-hunting,  and 
afforded  us  no  small  sport.  Nearly  every  large  cottonwood  tree  was  occu- 
pied as  a  roost,  and  the  season  as  yet  had  not  far  enough  advanced  to 
hide  its  tenants  amid  the  growing  foliage.  Each  night,  as  the  moon  reached 
a  suitable  position,  my  practice  was  to  seek  out  these  perching-trees,  from 
which  I  rarely  failed  to  return  heavily  laden. 

One  night  myself  and  companion  killed  ten  of  these  fowls — some  of 
them  having  an  inch  thickness  of  pure  fat  upon  the  back.  It  is  unnecesary 
to  say  that  with  such  abudance,  strown  so  lavishly  on  every  side,  the  fare 
upon  our  march  adown  this  thrice-enchanting  valley  was  one  continued 
scene  of  sumptuous  entertainment. 

But,  loveliness  gives  place  to  arid  sterility,  and  verdure  to  dreary  desola- 
tion, as  the  traveller  makes  his  exit  from  the  mountains. 

Almost  the  entire  expanse,  from  the  Arkansas  nearly  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  an  interval  ranging  south-southeast,  from  fifty  to  two  hundred  miles 
in  width,  between  longitudes  100°  and  104°  west  from  Greenwich,  is  said  to 
be  little  else  than  a  vast  desert  of  barrenness,  destitute  of  tree  or  shrub, 
or  spire  of  grass  relieve  the  aching  eye,  nor  favoring  stream  with  kindly 
flow  to  quench  the  fevered  thirst. 

The  whole  country  is  subject  to  high  winds,  that  sweep  over  it  at  brief 
intervals  in  maddened  fury,  bearing  in  their  course  immense  clouds  of 
dust,  and  engendering  amid  the  waste  landscape  a  scene  of  frequent  change. 
To-day  the  wayfarer  may  find  his  progress  impeded  by  no  inconsiderable 
hills  of  loose  sand,  and  to-morrow  he  may  pass  in  the  same  direction  and 
find  a  level  prairie, — a  fact  not  unaptly  expressed  in  the  words  of  the 
Psalmist,  "  the  mountains  skipped  like  rams,  and  the  little  hills  like 
lambs!" 

Between  the  Cimarone  and  the  Arkansas,  back  from  the  watercourses, 
the  prospect  is  but  little  better. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  former  are  numerous  spreads  of  rolling  sand- 
prairie,  if  not  entirely  naked,  but  scantly  clothed  with  coarse,  scattering 
grass,  growing  upon  a  surface  so  loose  that  a  horse  or  mule  will  sink  to 
his  fetlocks  at  every  step  in  passing  over  it;  then  come  broad  reaches  of 
slightly  undulating  plains,  mantled  with  sickly,  dwarf  vegetation,  and  sus- 
tained by  a  thin  clayey  soil,  so  baked  and  indurated  by  the  sun  as  to  be- 
come almost  impervious  to  water. 

The  snows  of  spring  and  the  rains  of  autumn,  as  before  hinted,  afford 
the  only  moisture  ever  known  to  these  arid  regions.  Here  dews,  alike 
with  transient  showers,  are  entire  strangers  to  the  summer  months,  and 
/eave  the  scorching  heat  of  a  vertical  sun  to  snatch  the  fading  beauties  of 
spring  and  turn  their  loveliness  into  stubble. 

The  following  lines,  written  upon  the  spot,  as  our  little  party  were  about 
to  withdraw  from  this  dreary  solitude,  but  poorly  portray  some  of  the  dis- 
mal realities  then  presented : 


SUMMER  ON  THE  DESERT.  257 


SUMMER  ON  THE  GREAT  AMERICAN  DESERT. 

Ye  dreary  plains,  that  round  me  lie, 

So  parch'd  with  summer's  heat, 
No  more  ye  please  my  wand'ring  eye, 

Or  woo  my  weary  feet. 

Why  hath  the  spring  your  beauty  borne 

Into  his  hiding  place, 
And  left  the  widow'd  winds  to  mourn 

The  charms  they  would  embrace  ? 

Why  should  those  flowers,  whose  honey'd  breath 

With  incense  filled  the  breeze, 
Drooping  and  wither'd,  lie  in  death, 

And  now  no  longer  please  ? 

That  grassy  carpet,  green  and  wide, 

Why  turn'd  to  stubble  now  ? 
Save  'chance  along  some  streamlet's  side, 

Where  less'ning  waters  flow  ! 

And  why  those  gently  murm'ring  rills, 

Whose  soft  melodious  strains 
Were  wont  to  echo  'mong  the  hills, 

No  longer  reach  the  plains  ? 

The  lark  no  longer  meets  the  morn, — 

Nor  linnet  pours  his  throat, — 
Nor  feather'd  warbler  hails  the  dawn 

With  his  sweet,  mellow  note ; — 

Nor  even  insect  cheers  the  scene, 

Where  Solitude  alone, 
In  wither'd  garb,  as  Desert  Queen, 

Rears  her  eternal  throne ! 

These  thirsty  plains,  with  open  mouth, 

Implore  the  gentle  shower  ; 
But  vainly  plead,  while  summer's  drouth 

In  schorching  heat  doth  pour  ! 

Nor  grateful  shade,  of  spreading  tree, 

Invites  my  feet  to  rest ; 
Nor  cooling  stream,  in  melody, 

Attempts  my  quicken'd  zest. 

So  dismal  all !  why  should  I  stay, 

And  sicken  by  their  view  ? 
Thrice  giadly  will  I  turn  away, 

And  bid  these  scenes  adieu  ! 


258  NATURE'S  NOBLEMAN. 

The  only  inhabitants  of  this  vast  region  are  strolling  bands  of  buffalo 
and  wild  horses,  with  wolves,  prairie  dogs,  and  a  few  scattering  antelope. 
The  only  human  beings  that  visit  it  are  Mexican  traders  and  occasional 
war-parties  of  Pawnee,  Apache,  Kuyawa,  Cumanche,  and  Arapaho  In- 
dians, and  they  only  for  the  brief  interval  required  in  its  hurried  passage. 

Who,  then,  so  wild  as  to  suppose  for  a  moment  that  such  a  country  can 
ever  become  inhabited  by  civilized  man? — unless  the  time  should  literally 
be  ushered  in,  when,  to  use  the  language  of  Scripture,  "  the  desert  shall 
bud  and  blossom  as  the  rose !" 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  towards  the  close  of  our  journey,  a  little  below  the 
point  at  which  the  Santa  Fe  trail  crosses  the  Cimarone,  we  cyme  upon  two 
horses  that  appeared  to  have  recently  strayed  from  some  travelling  party. 
According  to  the  custom  of  the  country  anything  encountered  in  this 
manner  is  good  and  lawful  prize  to  the  finder,  and  we  forthwith  set 
about  taking  possession. 

One  of  them,  however,  a  two-year-old  colt,  proved  so  unmanageable 
we  were  obliged  to  kill  it  in  order  to  secure  the  other.  Being  rather 
scantily  supplied  with  provisions,  the  fresh-slaughtered  animal  (fine  and 
fat  as  it  was)  presented  an  opportunity  too  tempting  not  to  be  improv- 
ed in  replenishing  our  stock,  wThich  induced  us  to  encamp  for  that 
purpose. 

Soon  after  a  large  party  of  horsemen  made  their  appearance  from 
over  the  neighboring  hills,  and,  having  devoted  a  few  minutes  to  recon- 
noitering,  advanced  upon  us  at  full  charge.  In  an  instant  our  little 
force  was  drawn  up  in  readiness  to  repel  the  expected  attack.  But, 
instead  of  enemies,  the  objects  of  our  apprehension  proved  a  squad  of 
Arapahos,  and  they  were  accordingly  allowed  to  come  into  camp. 

One  of  our  visitors  happened  to  be  the  owner  of  the  two  horses  we 
had  found,  which,  as  he  stated,  (having  described  them  minutely,)  had 
strayed  from  his  village,  some  six  miles  distant ;  he  then  enquired  of  us  if 
we  had  seen  them.  Here  was  a  dilemma ;  should  we  deny  the  fact,  and 
run  the  risk  of  being  caught  in  a  falsehood  ?  or  should  we  confess  and 
abide  the  consequences  ?  Our  commandant  decided  upon  the  latter  course ; 
but,  in  so  doing,  had  resort  to  an  artful  duplicity  to  bear  upon  the  finer 
feelings  of  the  Indian,  and  replied : 

"  My  warriors  had  suffered  long  for  lack  of  food.  Three  suns  had  sunk 
behind  the  mountain,  and  not  one  morsel  had  entered  their  mouths  to 'give 
them  strength  for  travel.  In  their  distress  they  enquired  of  the  Great 
Spirit,  and  He  showed  them  the  lost  animals  of  my  brother. 

"My  warriors  were  not  slow  to  receive  the  welcome  gift.  The  flesh  of 
the  younger  one  hath  caused  us  to  bless  the  Good  Spirit ;  the  other  is  with 
our  own  medicine-dogs,  that  my  brother  may  search  for  it  no  longer." 

The  owner;  on  hearing  this,  looked  very  sorrwful.  The  colt  had  been 
a  favorite  of  his  squaw  and  children.  In  a  moment,  however,  he  arose, 
and,  extending  his  hand  to  the  commandant,  exclaimed : 

"  My  heart  is  good.  My  white  brother  did  well  to  receive  the  gift  of  the 
Good  Spirit,  that  his  warriors  might  eat." 

Commandant.     But  the  young  medicine-dog  of  my  brother  was  the  be- 


JUNCTION  FORMED.  259 


loved  of  his  wife  and  little  ones.  What  will  he  that  I  give  him  so  they 
sorrow  not? 

Indian.  Now,  my  heart  blesses  the  pale  face.  If  he  would  bestow  his 
gifts,  what  better  could  I  receive  at  his  hand  than  a  small  present  of  tobac- 
co, that  my  pipe  may  be  filled  to  the  undying  friendship  of  him  and  his 
people. 

A  few  pieces  of  tobacco  were  accordingly  given,  and  the  good-hearted 
Indian,  after  shaking  hands  with  each  one  of  our  party,  took  his  horse  and 
departed  to  his  village. 

Where,  let  me  ask,  do  we  find,  in  civilized  countries  an  instance  of  noble 
generosity  equal  to  that  of  the  poor  savage  ? 

The  Arapaho  village,  as  we  learned  from  our  visitors,  had  been  camped 
in  the  vicinity  several  days,  for  the  twofold  purpose  of  awaiting  the  Cuman- 
ches  and  catching  wild  horses.  This,  by  the  way,  reminds  me  of  not  hav- 
ing as  yet  described  the  manner  of  performing'  the  latter  feat. 

In  taking  wild  horses,  two  methods  are  resorted  to,  alike  displaying  con- 
siderable tact  and  ingenuity.     Of  these  the  following  is  the  most  common : 

A  large  party  of  Indians,  mounted  on  their  fleetest  chargers,  having  dis- 
covered a  band  of  these  animals,  carefully  approach  from  the  leeward,  scat- 
tering themselves  to  a  distance  of  eight  or  ten  miles  along  the  course  their 
intended  captives  are  expected  to  run.  This  done,  the  chase  is  started  at 
a  given  signal,  by  the  nearest  Indian,  who  is  relieved  by  the  next  in  suc- 
cession, and  he  by  the  next,  and  so  on  (taking  their  cue  from  the  strategy 
of  wolves  in  their  capture  of  the  antelope)  until  these  proud  rangers  of  the 
prairie,  exhausted  by  their  long-continued  and  vain  efforts  to  escape,  cease 
to  assert  their  native  liberty,  and  fall  easy  prey  to  the  lasso  of  their 
pursuers. 

Another  plan  frequently  adopted  is»,  to  erect  a  stout  fence  from  side  to 
side,  between  two  impassable  walls  of  rock.  The  unsuspicious  band  are 
then  so  started  as  necessarily  to  be  driven  within  the  enclosure,  when  their 
ready  pursuers,  closing  in  upon  the  rear,  take  them  without  the  trouble  of 
a  long  chase. 

Great  numbers  of  wild  horses  are  annually  captured  by  these  means, 
which  become  domesticated  in  a  very  short  time.  But,  as  a  general  thing, 
they  are  less  adapted  to  hard  service  than  those  reared  in  the  ordinary 
way,  and  are  far  more  disposed  to  re-assert  their  birthright  of  freedom 
at  the  first  opportunity  that  occurs. 

Our  visitors  communicated  the  important  intelligence  that  a  detachment 
of  four  hundred  Mexicans  had  passed  their  village  only  two  days  previous, 
on  its  way  to  Arkansas ;  which  statement  was  further  corroborated  by  cer- 
tain indications  noticed  in  the  trail.  The  enemy  was  evidently  in  pursuit 
of  us,  and,  weak  as  we  were  numerically,  none  expressed  any  other  feeling 
than  that  of  a  willingness  to  meet  him. 

From  this  camp,  our  course  bore  west-northwest  for  thirty  or  forty  mPes, 
during  which  distance  we  found  no  water,  and  suffered  greatly  from  the 
agonizing  effects  of  thirst.  One  of  our  pack-horses,  also,  took  the  "  stam- 
pede," and  ran  off  with  his  entire  load,  consisting  principally  of  ammuni- 
tion, and  all  our  efforts  to  retake  him  proved  abortive. 

About  noon  the  succeeding  day,  we  reached  our  destination,  where  a 


260  INTENSE  THIRST. 


junction  was  formed,  not  with  the  army  we  had  hoped  to  find,  but  with  the 
mere  handful  who  had  parted  from  us  a  few  weeks  since  at  the  Arkansas. 

Discouragement  and  discontent  were  depicted  upon  the  countenance  of 
every  one,  as  the  lateness  of  the  season  admonished  us  of  the  extreme  un- 
certainty of  the  arrival  of  expected  reinforcements.  The  dreaded  approach 
of  the  Cumanches,  those  unsparing  enemies  of  the  Texans,  of  whom  we 
had  received  reliable  intelligence,  far  more  than  the  proximity  of  four 
hundred  Mexican  troops,  gave  us  just  cause  for  apprehension.  A  council 
was  held  forthwith,  to  decide  upon  the  course  proper  to  be  pursued.  Pru- 
dence seemed  to  dictate  an  abandonment  of  our  present  position, — while 
the  enemy  were  looking  for  us  in  another  quarter,  we  might  steal  a  march 
upon  him  in  his  own  country. 

These  suggestions  gave  tone  to  subsequent  movements,  and  early  in  the 
morning  of  the  day  following  we  were  under  way.  For  ten  or  fifteen  miles, 
our  course  continued  up  the  dry  sand-creek  that  had  marked  our  place  of 
rendezvous,  and  the  ni^ht  following  was  passed  with  a  few  lodges  of  Ara- 
pahos,  who  were  encamped  at  a  small  pool  of  water  near  a  bluff*  bank  of 
sandstone. 

This  rock  exhibited  many  rude  engravings  upon  its  smooth  side,  repre- 
senting men,  women,  and  children,  dogs,  snakes,  and  lizards,  with  various 
other  devices, — evidently  the  work  of  ancient  artists  in  commemoration 
of  some  remarkable  occurrence  connected  with  the  former  history  of  the 
country. 

I  examined  the  sketch  with  deep  interest,  and  felt  as  if  glancing  at  the 
obscure  records  of  the  greatness  and  glory  of  some  extinct  nation,  writ- 
ten in  a  language,  like  itself,  now  no  longer  known. 

Our  hunters,  having  accompanied  the  Indians  to  the  chase,  soon  after 
returned  with  a  choice  supply  of  fresh  meat,  and  four  wolf  pups.  The 
latter  had  been  taken  by  an  Indian  boy,  three  or  four  years  old,  who 
fearlessly  entered  the  den,  during  the  absence  of  the  dam,  and  bore  away 
her  defenceless  family  in  triumph. 

The  next  day  saw  us  again  en  route.  One  of  our  men,  having  obtained 
permission  of  the  commanding  officer,  proceeded  a  short  distance  in  ad- 
vance of  the  main  party  for  the  purpose  of  hunting.  Not  paying  strict 
attention  to  the  course  proposed,  he  mistook  his  way,  and,  despite  our  con- 
tinued efforts  to  set  him  aright,  could  no  longer  be  seen  or  heard  of,  and 
we  were  at  length  reluctantly  forced  to  give  him  up. 

Continuing  up  the  creek  some  two  days,  we  found  it  very  difficult  to 
procure  water,  and  were  often  compelled  to  dig  for  it  in  the  sand  to  a  depth 
of  three  or  four  feet. 

From  this  point,  we  bore  south-southwest,  and  after  more  than  a  day  and 
night's  hard  travelling,  over  an  arid  sand-prairie,  favored  by  neither  tree, 
shrub,  nor  watercourse,  we  arrived  at  the  head  of  a  small  affluent  of  the 
Cimarone,  inducting  us  to  the  bewitching  scenery  of  the  thrice  lovely  val- 
.ey  that  lay  immured  within  its  giant  walls. 

The  fatigue  of  a  forced  march,  combined  with  the  sweltering  heat  of  an 
almost  torrid  sun  by  day  and  scorching  winds  by  night,  in  addition  to  the 


DISCHARGED  FOR  COWARDICE.  261 

indescribable  torments  of  burning  thirst  for  nearly  thirty  hours,  had  ren- 
dered us  almost  frantic  with  agony. 

What  tongue  can  tell  the  sweetness  of  the  draught  that  first  greeted  our 
parched  lips,  at  the  termination  of  this  painful  interval  ?  What  mind  can 
conceive  the  inestimable  value  of  water,  until  destitution  unfolds  its  real 
merits  ? 

Hunger,  one  may  forget  in  the  sweet  unconsciousness  of  sleep,  or  glut 
his  appetite,  meanwhile,  upon  the  tasteless  feasts  of  fancy ,— but  thirst,  with- 
ering thirst,  can  never  be  forgotten  while  it  continues, — it  will  burn  as  if 
to  scorch  the  vitals  and  dry  up  the  heart's  blood  ! 

Before  leaving  the  sand-creek  above  alluded  to,  we  passed  several  dimi- 
nutive bottoms  and  vallons  that  assumed  an  air  of  fertility.  In  these,  I 
noticed  an  abundance  of  the  bread-root,  and  in  the  creek  banks,  two  or 
three  places  gave  indication  of  coal.  The  prevailing  rock  was  sandstone  | 
and  limestone.  The  country  adjacent,  with  the  exception  of  its  being  more 
tumulous,  is  much  like  the  llanos  peculiar  to  this  region. 

On  striking  the  Cimarone  we  contiued  our  march  up  its  valley  for  some 
three  days,  and  camped  for  a  short  time,  to  make  a  cache  of  our  surplus 
baggage  for  the  purpose  of  travelling  with  greater  expedition. 

The  day  preceding,  however,  afforded  two  incidents  worthy  of  note. 
One  was  the  re-appearance  of  our  lost  man,  who,  having  found  his  way  to 
this  point,  and  knowing  we  must  necessarily  make  it  in  our  line  of  march, 
had  been  awaiting  us  for  the  past  two  days.  He  was  hailed  as  one  risen 
from  the  dead,  and  welcomed  back  to  our  midst. 

But  the  expulsion  of  three  for  cowardice  almost  immediately  followed 
the  re-accession  of  one.  Considerable  dissatisfaction  had  existed  for  some 
time,  in  reference  to  our  plan  of  operations.  Several  of  the  company  had 
openly  talked  of  desertion,  and  were  using  their  earnest  endeavors  to  per- 
suade others  to  this  course.  As  we  approached  the  enemy's  country,  the 
spirit  of  insubordination  showed  itself  with  increased  violence.  The  time 
and  place,  even,  were  pitched  upon  for  raising  the  standard  of  rebellion 
against  all  orders  and  those  who  gave  them.  Affairs  at  length  reached  a 
crisis  that  loudly  demanded  a  resort  to  some  prompt  measures  to  restore 
them  to  their  proper  equilibrium — an  example  must  be  had. 

Accordingly  the  company  was  drawn  up  in  line,  when  the  articles  sub- 
scribed to  by  each  of  its  members  were  read.  This  done,  the  commanding 
officer  addressed  the  malecontents  in  a  few  brief  words,  demanding  which 
of  those  articles  he  had  violated, — if  neither,  they  were  equally  binding  as 
at  first ; — then,  alluding  to  the  rumors  that  had  reached  his  ears  from  various 
sources,  he  stated  his  readiness  to  release  any  one  requesting  it  from  further 
obligation, — but  the  discharge  should  be  a  dishonorable  one, — a  discharge 
for  cowardice! 

"  Yes,"  said  he,  "  cowardice  !  We  are  on  the  eve  of  entering  the  ene- 
my's country,  and  the  hearts  of  some  doubtless  begin  to  fail  them.  Texas 
wants  no  cowards  to  fight  her  battles  !  None  but  brave  men  and  true,  are 
worthy  of  that  honor  !  Now,  T  repeat  it,  if  any  timorous  spirit, — any  pusil- 
lanimous heart, — any  despicable  poltroon,  wishes  his  discharge,  I  stand 
ready  to  give  it ;  let  him  step  one  pace  in  advance  from  the  ranks  and  ac 


262  THE  PURSUIT. 


in 


knowledge  himself  a  coward !  His  name  shall  be  erased  from  the  muster* 
roll." 

At  this  announcement,  three  men  stepped  forward,  and  their  names  were 
severally  repeated,  as  they  received  their  discharge,  accompanied  by  the 
cutting  words, — "  reason — cowardice  /" 

After  this  the  commanding  officer  again  addressed  them  :  "  You  are  now 
dishonorably  discharged,  and,  as  sentenced,  before  high  heaven,  I  pronounce 
you  cowards.  If  either  of  you  considers  this  sentence  unjust,  let  him  shoul- 
der his  rifle  and  choose  his  own  distance.  I  stand  ready  to  give  him  any 
satisfaction  he  may  demand  in  reparation  of  his  wounded  honor.  But,  you 
shall  pocket  the  disgrace.  To-night  you  may  stay  with  us. — to-morrow 
you  must  and  shall  leave. 

"  And  you,  my  brave  comrades,  who  have  chosen  to  abide  by  that  flag 

"  ich  has  graced  the  triumphs  of  by-gone  days,  may  you  never  desert  it 
in  the  hour  of  danger.  Look  up  with  hope,  and  as  you  gaze  upon  its 
bright  star  of  lonely  grandeur,  consider  it  the  harbinger  of  success, — the 
genius  of  victory." 

The  next  morning,  the  three  faint-hearted  volunteers  accordingly  left 
camp,  reducing  our  little  number  to  twenty-one  ; — a  lean  force,  truly,  for 
an  expedition  so  hazardous.  Yet  none  flinched  at  the  thick  array  of  antici- 
pated dangers.     All  were  ready  and  anxious  for  the  encounter. 

The  above  summary  proceeding  completely  effected  its  designed  object, 
at  least  for  the  present,  and  reduced  the  turbulent  spirits  to  the  wholesome 
restraints  of  disc'pline. 


CHAPTER   XXXI. 


Mexican  camp. — Pursuit. — Advance  upon  Mora. — Enemy  discovered. — Country  be- 
tween the  Rio  de  las  Animas  and  Mora  ;  its  picturesque  beauty. — Admirable  point 
of  observation. — Fortified  position. — Battle  of  the  pass;  order  of  attack,  passage  of 
the  river,  storming  the  enemy's  camp,  and  number  of  killed,  wounded  and  prison- 
ers.—Council  of  war.— Prisoners  released. — Message  to  Amijo. — Return  march. — 
Mexican  army. — Attacked,  and  results  of  action. — Mexican  bravery. — Retreat. — 
Cross  the  Table  Mountain. — New  species  of  wild  onions. — March  down  the  de  las 
Animas.— Discouragements  accumulate. — Disband. — Sketch  of  factions. — Texan 
prisoners. — Arrival  of  reinforcements. — Battle  of  the  Arroyo  :  killed,  wounded,  and 
prisoners. — Retreat  of  Amijo. — "  Stampede." — Frightful  encounter  with  the  Cu- 
manches  and  Kuyawas. — Discharge  of  troops. — Affair  with  Capt.  Cook. — Surren- 
der to  U.  S.  Dragoons,  and  failure  of  expedition. — Return  to  Texas. — Journey  to 
the  Platte. — Country  between  the  Arkansas  and  Beaver  creek. — Feasting  at  camp. — 
Crows'  eggs.' — Lateness  of  season.' — Snow-storm  in  June. — An  Indian  fort. — Serio- 
comico  adventure  with  a  wolf. — Indians. — Song  of  the  night-bird. 

From  Cache  Camp  we  resumed  our  march,  and,  on  the  fourth  day  sub- 
sequent, struck  the  Taos  trail  at  the  crossing  of  the  de  las  Animas  ; — 
thence,  continuing  up  the  river  about  forty  miles,  we  came  to  a  place  re- 
cently occupied  by  a  detachment  of  Mexicans.     After  a  careful  examina- 


FORTiFlED  POSITION.  263 

tion,  we  became  satisfied  that  it  had  been  some  sixty  cavalry,  who  were 
then  doubtless  awaiting  our  advance  at  no  great  distance  ;  and,  from  ap- 
pearances, not  more  than  three  days  had  elapsed  since  its  evacuation. 
Feeling  ill-disposed  to  try  the  patience  of  our  enemy  by  keeping  him  in  too 
long  a  suspense,  we  immediately  started  in  pursuit. 

The  route  led  by  a  rough  pass  over  a  spur  of  the  Toas  Mountains 
which  heads  the  tierras  te?npladas  southwest  of  the  Cimarone,  into  a  prairie 
ranging  from  east  to  west,  forty-five  or  fifty  miles  long  and  thirty  or  more 
broad,  and  skirting  the  three  principal  streams  that  unite  to  form  the  Colo- 
rado. From  this  point  it  continued  over  another  spur  of  the  mountain 
chain  into  a  valley  some  ten  miles  broad,  ranging  irom  north  to  south 
and  .intersected  by  the  trail  from  Taos  to  the  Santa  Fe  road,  striking  the 
latter  near  the  Waggon  Mound,* — thence,  for  about  twenty-five  miles, 
across  a  spread  of  high  prairie,  (quite  rough  and  undulating,  with  frequent 
hills  assuming  a  mountainous  character,)  to  a  considerable  creek,  four  or 
five  miles  southeast  of  the  town  of  Mora. 

At  this  point  our  scouts  reported  the  enemy  as  occupying  a  fortified 
camp,  which  commanded  the  only  feasible  pass  leading  to  the  adjoining 
settlements.  Upon  the  reception  of  this  intelligence  we  withdrew  to  a  de- 
serted ranche  and  encamped  for  the  night,  in  order  to  obtain,  if  possible, 
more  certain  information  relative  to  his  position  and  force. 

The  country  between  the  de  las  Animas  and  this  place,  as  a  general  thing, 
gave  indications  of  a  good  soil,  but  was  quite  arid,  particularly  the  prairie 
skirting  the  head  branches  of  the  Colorado.  The  hills  and  mountains 
were  less  sterile  than  those  farther  east.  They  also  afforded  an  abundance 
of  timber,  consisting  of  pine,  oak,  cedar,  and  pinion.  The  creek  bottoms 
embraced  considerable  quantities  of  excellent  land,  though  but  sparsely 
timbered. 

The  mountains  to  the  right  towered  majestically  to  an  altitude  of  ten 
or  twelve  thousand  feet,  opposing  their  snowy  crests  in  stern  defiance  to 
the  heat  of  a  summer's  sun. 

Toward  the  close  of  our  march,  the  landscape  disclosed  a  scene  of  ro- 
mantic beauty  and  grandeur.  Mingled  among  the  pleasing  diversity  of 
mountain,  hill,  dale,  and  lawn,  vegas  and  llanos,  forests  and  prairies,  here 
and  there  a  small  lake  mirrored  forth  its  bright  waters,  swarming  with  innu- 
merable water- fowl,  decorated  by  broad  flowery  banks,  and  shut  in  by  rug- 
ged highlands  and  rocky  cliffs,  that  seemed  like  some  fairy's  home,  where 
enchantment  held  Nature's  self  in  spell-bound  admiration.  The  creeks  and 
valleys  of  this  section  were  also  enclosed  by  abrupt  banks,  that  sometimes 
protruded  their  precipitous  walls  to  the  very  water's  edge,  and  then  again 
expanded  to  give  place  to  the  grass,  fruits,  and  flowers  of  mimic  Edens. 

The  prevailing  rock  appeared  to  be  gray  granite,  ferruginous  sandstone, 
and  limestone.  Game  was  rather  scarce,  and  consisted  principally  of  buf- 
falo, deer,  and  bear. 

As  a  whole,  this  entire  region  may  be  considered  as  admirably  adapted 

*  This  mound  is  a  singular  natural  elevation  in  the  form  of  a  covered  waggon, 
near  the  road  from  the  United  Slates  to  Santa  Fe,— about  fifty  miles  south  of  Taoa 

23 


261  BATTLE  OF  THE  PASS. 


to  grazing  purposes,  and,  were  it  not  for  its  aridity,  might  be  cultivated  tf 
a  considerable  extent. 

The  men  sent  to  reconnoitre  returned  about  midnight,  but  had  succeeded 
in  obtaining  no  satisfactory  information  of  the  enemy's  position,  owing  to 
the  darkness  and  their  ignorance  of  the  topography  of  the  country.  How- 
ever, they  reported  having  discovered  a  point  overlooking  his  camp,  from 
which  our  whole  force  might  watch  his  movements,  screened  from  his  ob- 
servation by  a  dense  thicket  of  pines,  and  recommended  it  for  our  occupancy 
the  ensuing  day.  Accordingly,  in  the  morning  orders  were  given  to  that 
effect ;  and,  after  a  march  of  four  or  five  miles,  covered  by  an  unbroken 
forest  of  pine  and  cedar,  we  arrived  at  the  place  designated,  and  encamped 
almost  within  speaking  distance  of  the  enemy. 

No  point  could  be  more  admirably  situated  for  our  purpose.  The  gradual 
acclivity  by  which  we  had  advanced,  studded  with  pine,  hemlock,  and  pin- 
ion, led  to  the  summit  of  a  high  ridge,  bounding  a  broad  valley  upon  its 
opposite  side  with  vast  piles  of  perpendicular  rock,  several  hundred  feet  in 
altitude.  Through  this  valley  a  large  creek  traced  its  way,  graced  by  oc- 
casional groves  of  cottonwood  and  willow.  In  one  of  these,  appeared  the 
Mexican  encampment. 

So  matchless  was  our  position,  by  aid  of  a  spy-glass  we  could  observe 
his  every  movement  without  incurring  the  risk  of  being  ourselves  discov- 
ered. 

A  mere  glance  revealed  the  true  state  of  affairs.  The  hostile  force,  con- 
sisting of  some  sixty  strong,  completely  commanded  the  only  entrance  into 
the  valley  from  the  east,  and  was  otherwise  so  advantageously  posted  as  to 
render  an  immediate  attack  extremely  hazardous.  We  accordingly  awaited 
the  cover  of  night  for  further  operations,  and  contented  ourselves  meanwhile 
with  watching  the  unsuspecting  foe. 

Our  plan  was  to  storm  the  Mexican  camp  and  force  a  passage  into  the 
adjoining  town,  where  we  expected  to  encounter  another  detachment,  and, 
after  defeating  it,  make  good  our  retreat  before  a  sufficient  reinforcement 
could  be  rallied  to  oppose  us. 

Soon  after  sundown,  arrangements  being  completed,  we  commenced  our 
march.  A  detour  of  four  or  five  miles  led  us  to  the  head  of  a  narrow  and 
circuitous  defile,  marking  the  entrance  to  the  valley ;  winding  our  way 
through  which  silently,  in  a  few  moments  we  were  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  enemy. 

Here  dismounting,  the  company  was  drawn  into  line,  and  the  plan  of 
attack  communicated  to  each,  as  follows :  three  men,  mounted  upon  fleet 
horses,  were  to  dispose  of  themselves,  if  possible,  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
prevent  an  escape,  while  the  remainder,  in  two  divisions,  (the  one  headed 
by  the  Col.  commandant  and  the  other  by  the  first  lieutenant,)  commenced 
a  sumultaneous  attack  at  different  points.  Orders  were  given  to  scale  the 
enemy's  breastwork,  seize  his  arms,  and  demand  his  surrender, — but  not 
to  fire  a  shot,  unless  in  case  of  resistance  or  an  attempt  to  escape ;  and, 
even  then,  to  avoid  all  unnecessary  effusion  of  blood. 

Thus  disposed,  we  advanced  to  the  charge ; — but  a  new  difficulty  here 
arose.  The  creek  which,  from  our  high  point  of  observation  during  the 
day ,  had  appeared  only  a  diminutive  stream,  now  presented  its  broad  sur- 


AFFAIR  OF  THE  GAP.  265 

face,  with  a  current  of  swift  and  deep  water,  while  a  steep  bank  upon  the 
other   side   showed  the  enemy  at  its  very  verge.      Nothing  daunted  we 
plunged  in,  and,  almost  as  soon,  gained  the  opposite  shore.     Ascending  the 
bank  we  attracted  the  notice  of  the  sentinels,  and  received  the  challenge : 
"  Quienes  veniren  ?" — who  comes  ? 
"  Que  dijo  ?" — what  do  you  say  ? 
"  Quienes  veniren,  carraho  ?" 

At  this  a  rush  was  made  upon  the  challengers,  who  were  almost  instantly 
disarmed,  and  our  whole  party,  leaping  into  camp,  gave  to  the  enemy  the 
first  intimation  of  its  presence. 

"  Munchos  Tajanos  ! " — exclaimed  one,  as  the  astonished  Mexicans 
snatched  their  arms. 

"  Si,  munchos  Tajanos. — Quieron  los  scoupetas !" — was  the  reply,  as 
we  sprang  to  prevent  them. 

Here  a  smart  struggle  ensued,  which  resulted  in  the  defeat  of  the  enemy 
with  a  loss  of  five  killed,  four  wounded,  and  eighteen  prisoners, — the  re- 
mainder having  escaped  despite  our  efforts  to  prevent  it, — but  all  the  camp 
equipage  fell  into  our  hands,  with  seventy-two  head  of  horses  and  mules. 
Among  the  arms  taken  wTere  two  or  three  pieces  that  had  belonged  to  the 
Texan  Santa  Fe  expedition  of  the  fall  of  '41. 

A  council  was  now  held  to  decide  upon  the  expediency  of  proceeding 
immediately  to  the  neighboring  town.  A  majority  at  first  were  favorable 
to  the  proposition ; — but  some  objected,  and  urged  the  imprudence  of  weak- 
ening our  force  by  a  division,  as  we  should  either  be  necessitated  to  do,  in 
that  event,  or  relinquish  the  advantages  already  gained, — and,  further,  the 
enemy,  being  aware  of  our  approach,  was  doubtless  prepared  to  oppose  a 
dangerous  resistance,  such  as  would  be  attended  with  great  risk  of  life  on 
our  part,  without  securing  any  possible  benefit  in  its  result.  The  latter 
reasons  influenced  the  decision,  and  orders  were  accordingly  given  to  with- 
draw from  the  scene  of  action. 

In  the  interim  the  wounded  had  been  carefully  attended  to,  and,  as  we 
were  about  to  leave,  the  prisoners  were  all  set  at  liberty,  with  these  words : 
"  You  are  now  free.  Bury  your  dead,  and  remember  in  future  how  vain 
it  is  to  resist  the  arms  of  Texas.  Tell  Amijo,  your  General,  the  Texans 
are  men.  and  not  wild  beasts.  They  never  kill  an  unresisting  enemy, — 
they  never  kill  a  prisoner  of  war.  He  has  done  both, — but  let  him  beware 
how  he  does  it  again,  for  the  lives  of  ten  Mexicans  shall  be  the  forfeit  for 
each  ofTence." 

All  things  being  arranged  for  a  retrograde  movement,  we  were  promptly 
under  way  upon  our  return  march  to  the  Cimarone.  The  route  led  within 
ten  or  twelve  miles  of  the  Waggon  Mound,  at  which  point  a  large 
number  of  dark-looking  objects  appeared,  but  so  indistinctly  we  were  una- 
ble to  determine  their  nature  ; — these,  as  we  subsequently  learned,  were  a 
body  of  Mexican  troops,  numbering  seven  hundred  and  fifty  men. 

Continuing  our  course,  about  noon  we  made  camp  at  a  gap  in  the  moun- 
tain ridge,  facing  from  the  west  the  head  branches  of  the  Colorado. 

The  sentinels  were  cautiously  posted,  two  upon  the  summit  in  the  rear, 
and  two  with  the  horses  in  front,  and  express  orders  given  to  them  not  to 
leave  their  stations  until  relieved,  and  to  give  immediate  notice  of  the  ap- 
pearance of  any  suspicious  object.     The  remainder  of  the  party  were  soon 


266  A  RETREAT. 

busily  occupied,  some  in  preparations  for  dinner,  and  others  in  making 
amends  for  a  night  of  wakefulness. 

In  fact,  each  one  conducted  himself  apparently  with  as  little  concern  as 
though  it  were  impossible  that  a  Mexican  could  be  found  this  side  of  the 
halls  of  Montezuma.  Participating  in  this  general  feeling  of  security, 
and  anxious  to  enjoy  the  relaxations  of  camp,  in  a  brief  intervel  the  sen- 
tinels deserted  their  posts  and  mingled  among  the  loungers. 

This  remissness  was  first  noticed  by  a  private,  who  hurriedly  enquired, 
"  Where  is  the  guard  ?"  Scarcely  were  the  words  spoken,  when  another 
exclaimed,  "  There  go  our  horses  !" 

The  latter  announcement  aroused  all  hands — but  only  in  time  to  witness 
our  whole  cavallard  under  full  headway  before  a  small  party  of  Mexican 
cavalry,  while  at  the  same  instant  a  brisk  fire  was  opened  upon  us  from  the 
rear,  and  the  dusky  forms  of  the  enemy  appeared  both  right  and  left ;  thus 
we  had  the  mortification  to  find  our  little  band  surrounded  by  a  superior 
force. 

Orders  were  given  to  dislodge  the  foe,  and  occupy  his  position  in  the 
rear.  At  the  word  " charge"  our  dauntless  partizans,  with  a  shout,  rushed 
up  the  steep  hill-side  and  drove  the  panic-stricken  Mexicans  before  them, 
who  fled  with  the  utmost  precipitancy  in  all  directions,  throwing  away  their 
blankets,  robes,  arms,  and  even  clothes,  to  aid  them  in  their  hurried  escape. 
So  great  was  their  consternation,  in  less  than  fifteen  minutes  not  one  re- 
mained in  sight,  either  far  or  near. 

On  examining  the  premises,  we  found  fifteen  or  twenty  saddles,  with 
a  mule,  which  they  had  likewise  abandoned, — but  only  two  half-jaded 
animals  told  the  remnants  of  the  noble  cavallard  of  more  than  eighty  head 
that  had  grazed  around  us  scarcely  thirty  minutes  before  ;  a  thing  of  itself 
equivalent  of  a  defeat. 

What  could  twenty-one  footmen  do  in  an  open  prairie  opposed  by  hun- 
dreds of  cavalry,  able  at  any  time  to  choose  their  own  place  and  mode  of 
attack?  The  issue  was  quite  apparent, — we  must  retreat.  In  an  advan- 
tageous position,  surrounded  by  game,  and  acquainted  with  the  topography 
of  the  country,  we  might  hold  out  against  a  force  of  thousands  ;  but  it 
would  be  presumption  to  think  of  either  maintaining  our  present  ground 
or  advancing  upon  the  foe. 

Preparations  were  therefore  immediately  commenced  for  acting  upon 
the  only  prudent  alternative  now  left.  Each  man  selected"  for  himself  a 
blanket,  or  robe,  which,  with  such  other  necessaries  as  he  could  conveniently 
carry,  was  bound  in  the  form  of  a  knapsack  and  strapped  to  his  shoulders ; 
our  animals  were  then  heavily  laden  with  provisions,  and  the  remaining 
luggage  (consisting  of  arms  taken  from  the  enemy,  saddles,  robes,  blan- 
kets, knives,  &c.,)  committed  to  the  flames ;  the  value  of  property  thus 
destroyed,  amounted  to  several  thousand  dollars.  It  was  a  melancholy 
thing  to  witness  this  wanton  waste ;  yet  such  is  the  custom  of  war  under 
like  circumstances. 

Toward  sundown  we  took  up  our  line  of  march,  each  one  on  foot  with 
nis  shouldered  pack,  in  every  appearance  illustrating  the  soldier's  return 
"from  the  war !" 

In  the  above  manner  we  trudged  along,  bearing  a  course  due  east,  till  the 
evening  of  the  third  day,  which  brought  us  to  the  base  of  the  table  moun- 


^Sr-^ 


> 

w 
w 


i 


COMPANY  DISBANDED.  267 

tain  at  the  head  of  the  Cimarone, — having  discovered  the  enemy's  scouts 
hovering  in  the  distance  on  two  or  three  occasions  during  the  interval. 
The  day  following  we  crossed  the  mountain,  upon  whose  summit  was  a 
beautiful  plateau,  some  ten  miles  in  width  and  of  unknown  length. 

The  soil  gave  every  evidence  of  fertility,  and  was  well  watered.  I 
noticed  a  number  of  strawberry  vines — the  first  I  had  seen  in  the  country, 
as  well  as  a  profuse  array  of  floral  loveliness.  A  considerable  lake  also 
appeared,  whose  banks  were  of  perpendicular  rock  measuring  a  descent 
of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet ;  while  on  its  shady  side  a  pile  of  snow  bade  de- 
fiance to  the  heat  of  summer,  and  looked  pleasingly  strange  amid  the  sur- 
rounding verdure. 

After  a  lengthy  search,  we  finally  found  a  place  of  descent  upon  the 
opposite  side  of  the  mountain,  which  led  us  into  the  valley  of  the  extreme 
left  hand  fork  of  the  Rio  de  las  Animas. 

The  bottom  of  this  stream,  as  it  emerged  from  the  mountains,  disclosed 
a  soil  of  extraordinary  fertility.  Among  its  indigenous  productions  I 
noticed  a  spread  of  fifty  acres  or  more,  so  densely  covered  with  onions  that 
hundreds  of  bushels  might  be  gathered  in  a  short  time.  This  plant  was 
of  a  different  kind  from  any  I  ever  before  saw.  Its  color  was  white,  size 
about  equal  to  a  pigeon's  egg,  and  appearance  much  like  that  of  the  com- 
mon onion ;  but  it  had  flag-shaped  stalks,  and  was  much  less  offensive  in 
taste  and  smell  than  is  natural  to  this  species  of  roots. 

Continuing  down  the  valley  of  this  creek,  we  struck  the  de  las  Animas 
on  the  third  day  subsequent,  and  on  the  seventh,  arrived  at  the  egress  of 
that  stream  from  its  frightful  canon,  nearly  opposite  Bent's  Fort  on  the 
Arkansas.  From  this  place  an  express  was  sent  to  the  latter  point  to  ob- 
tain, if  possible,  some  information  relative  to  the  expected  reinforcement 
from  Texas,  and,  also,  in  regard  to  the  movements  of  the  enemy. 

The  next  day,  however,  the  messenger  returned  with  a  report  so  far 
from  encouraging,  that  it  served  still  more  to  depress  our  fast-sinking  hopes. 
A  general  despondency  seemed  to  weigh  like  an  incubus  upon  the  minds 
of  both  officers  and  men.  Our  inability  to  hold  out  under  existing  circum- 
stances was  too  apparent,  as  the  sphere  of  operations  embraced  a  circuit 
of  five  hundred  miles  or  more,  over  deserts  and  mountains,  that  would 
waste  us  away  with  fatigue,  watchings,  hunger  and  thirst,  by  long  and 
dreary  marches  to  be  performed  on  foot,  through  a  country  swarming  with 
savage  and  half-civilized  foes.  A  council  was  accordingly  held,  which  re- 
sulted in  the  almost  unanimous  decision  to  disband. 

Discharges  previously  made  out,  bearing  date  May  24th,  were  now  pre- 
sented to  each  one,  absolving  him  from  all  further  connection  with  the 
Texan  army,  and,  on  the  morning  of  the  29th  inst.,  our  little  band  separa- 
ted in  three  parties ;  one  of  these,  consisting  of  four  men,  left  for  the  can- 
on of  the  Cimarone ;  another,  headed  by  Col.  Warfield,  started  for  Texas  ; 
and  the  remainder  commenced  their  return  journey  toward  the  Platte 
river. 

The  story  of  the  former  of  these  fractions,  so  far  as  relates  to  the  diffi- 
culties between  Mexico  and  Texas,  is  briefly  told.  Our  adventurers  bear- 
ing for  the  Cimarone  reached  their  hoped-for  Elysium;  but,  soon  aftet, 
having  fallen  into  an  ambuscade  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  Mexican  troops, 

S3* 


268  HARD  FIGHTING  AND  REVERSES. 

were  taken  prisoners,  and,  in  a  few  days  subsequent,  found  themselves  in 
irons  and  snugly  stowed  away  in  the  calaboose  at  Santa  Fe  ;  while  there, 
one  of  them  died  from  bad  treatment,  and  the  others  would  have  been  shot 
had  not  the  dread  of  Texan  vengeance  prevented  the  deed.  Succeeding 
events,  however,  effected  their  liberation. 

The  party  accompanying  Col.  W.  fell  in  with  the  expected  reinforcements 
from  Texas,  near  the  Crossing  of  the  Arkansas,  and  again  submitted  itself 
to  the  fortune  of  war.  This  force  consisted  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  vol- 
unteers, under  the  command  of  Col.  Snively,  an  old  veteran  of  the  Texas 
revolution. 

Soon  after,  a  detachment  of  forty  Texan s,  headed  by  Col.  Warfield,  en- 
countered the  advance  guard  of  the  enemy,  numbering  one  hundred  picked 
men.  The  approach  of  the  latter  had  been  observed  from  an  eminence, 
when  the  Texans  were  drawn  up  under  cover  of  a  small  sand-bank,  near  a 
creek,  (arroyo,)  awaiting  to  intercept  him.  Ignorant  of  the  presence  of 
danger,  the  Mexicans  were  pressing  on  at  a  rapid  rate,  till  brought  to  a 
sudden  halt  by  an  opposing  force  within  half  rifle-shot. 

"Quienes  ?"  demanded  the  Texan  officer. 

"  Mexicanas.     Quienes  sons  uste  V9  replied  the  commandante. 

"  Tajanos,"  returned  the  Texan,  through  his  interpreter.  "  We  have 
come  to  fight,  and  shall  fight  unless  you  surrender.  But,  that  you  may 
know  with  whom  you  have  to  deal,  we  give  you  thirty  minutes  to  decide 
whether  to  fight  or  surrender.  If  you  choose  the  former,  a  signal  from 
your  sword  will  announce  the  answer." 

A  brief  discussion  ensued  among  them  upon  this  summons.  The  Mexi- 
cans were  disposed  to  surrender,  but  the  Pueblo  Indians,  of  whom  fifty 
or  more  were  included  in  the  party,  scornfully  refused  to  accede  to  any 
such  proposition,  declaring  that  they  had  come  to  fight,  and  not  to  surrender 
like  women  upon  the  first  appearance  of  an  inferior  enemy.  At  length, 
a  chief  ended  the  dispute  by  advancing  to  the  front  line  and  giving  the  pre- 
scribed signal. 

The  onset  of  the  Texans  was  terrific  beyond  description.  The  enemy's 
line  was  instantly  broken,  and  the  cry  of  "  misericordia  !"  (mercy)  sounded 
upon  all  sides.  The  conflict  lasted  scarcely  five  minutes;  but,  though 
short,  it  was  decisive  and  bloody. 

Twenty-two  of  the  enemy  were  killed,  thirty  wounded,  and  the  remain- 
der taken  prisoners,  with  the  exception  of  one  who  succeeded  in  affect- 
ing his  escape.     Not  a  Texan  was  hurt. 

General  Amijo,  who  at  this  time  lay  encamped  at  the  Cimarone,  forty 
or  fifty  miles  distant,  with  an  army  of  seven  hundred  Mexicans,  on 
receiving  intelligence  of  the  defeat  of  the  flower  of  his  invincibles, 
like  other  examples  equally  illustrious,  felt  his  courage  "ooze  out  at 
his  sfingers'  ends,"  and,  not  being  disposed  to  encounter  such  dangerous 
enemies,  ordered  an  immediate  retreat  and  fell  back  on  Santa  Fe. 

Col.  Snively  was  on  the  point  of  marching  in  pursuit,  when  an  incident 
occurred  which  altered  the  whole  aspect  of  affairs,  and  finally  frustrated 
all  the  purposes  of  the  expedition.  This  was  effected  by  a  war-party  of 
eighty  Kuyawa  and  Cumanche  Indians,  who  succeeded  in  stampeding  a 
large  band  of  the  army  horses. 


ARMY  SURRENDERED  TO  U.  S.  DRAGOONS.       269 

They  were  followed  by  eleven  men  under  the  command  of  Col.  War- 
field,  and,  after  a  running  fight  of  two  or  three  miles,  an  action  was 
brought  about.  As  they  halted,  Col.  W.  ordered  his  men  to  dismount 
and  form  a  breastwork  with  their  horses,  which  was  promptly  done ; — 
meanwhile  the  Indians,  numbering  sixty  or  more,  had  closed  around, 
with  whoops  and  yells,  and  other  demonstrations  of  their  expected 
triumph. 

A  discharge  from  the  Texans  brought  four  of  their  warriors  to  the 
ground,  and  wounded  six  more.  This  broadside  was  returned  through  a 
shower  of  arrows,  and  repeated  by  the  intrepid  eleven  in  a  pistol-round, 
when  three  more  of  the  assailants  fell,  and  twice  that  number  felt  the 
effects  of  an  unerring  aim.  Hereupon  the  Indians  hastily  retreated  with 
their  wounded,  leaving  seven  of  their  number  to  grace  the  scene  of  ac- 
tion. Not  one  of  the  Texans  was  injured,  and  only  one  of  their  horses 
killed  and  three  wounded.  Further  pursuit,  however,  was  abandoned, 
and  the  captive  horses  were  left  to  honor  the  service  of  their  new  masters. 

A  loss  so  inopportune  caused  the  postponement  of  further  operations 
for  the  present,  and,  in  connection  with  other  difficulties,  created  so  much 
discontent  in  the  minds  of  some,  that  one  entire  company  declared  its  in- 
tention of  returning  to  Texas,  and  requested  its  immediate  discharge.  An 
emergency  of  this  kind,  not  having  been  provided  for  in  the  terms  of  en- 
listment, left  the  commanding  officer  no  other  alternative  than  to  accede 
to  a  measure  he  had  no  power  to  prevent,  and  the  demands  of  the  disaf- 
fected were  accordingly  complied  with. 

The  army  was  thus  reduced  to  eighty  effective  men,  which  made  it 
necessary  to  release  the  prisoners  as  yet  retained  in  custody.  These 
during  their  detention  had  been  treated  with  great  kindness,  and  their 
wounded  carefully  attended  to  by  the  company's  surgeon  ;  on  their  re- 
lease twelve  horses  were  allowed  for  their  conveyance,  while  the  other 
prisoners  were  furnished  with  four  rifles  and  a  quantity  of  ammunition,  two 
running  horses,  and  enough  provisions  to  serve  for  several  days.  Thus 
provided,  they  were  set  at  liberty  with  the  pithy  message  :  u  Bid  your 
countrymen  learn,  from  this  example,  how  to  treat  prisoners  of  war  !" 

Soon  after  the  events  above^elated,  the  army  took  up  a  position  on  the 
Arkansas  river,  a  few  miles  below  the  Santa  Fe  road,  for  the  purpose  of 
procuring  a  supply  of  provisions  from  the  vast  quantities  of  buffalo  afford- 
ed by  that  vicinity.  While  encamped  here,  hunting  parties  were  al- 
lowed to  cross  into  the  United  States  territory  in  quest  of  game, — not  in 
a  national  capacity,  but  as  mere  private  individuals. 

On  one  of  these  occasions  the  hunters  were  discovered  and  pursued  by 
two  companies  of  United  States  Dragoons,  under  Capt.  Cook,  on  their 
way  to  escort  the  Santa  Fe  traders  as  far  as  the  Crossing  of  the  Arkansas. 
The  chase  was  continued  to  the  river  bank  opposite  the  Texan  camp,, 
when  a  conference  was  requested,  and  the  commanding  officers  of  both 
armies  met,  as  was  supposed,  for  an  interchange  of  mutual  civilities  ;  but 
such  proved  not  to  be  the  case. 

Captain  Cook,  on  the  part  of  the  Americans,  contended  that  the 
Texans  had  invaded  the  United  States  territory,  and  that  they  even  now 
occupied  a  position  within  its  limits  ; — his  duty  was  plain.     He  must  de- 


270  COUNTRY  FROM  THE  ARKANSAS  TO  BEAVER. 

mand,  and,  if  necessary,  enforce  their  immediate  surrender.  Thirty  mi- 
nutes only  would  be  allowed  for  a  decision. 

Cols.  Snively  and  Warfield  urged  many  arguments  to  prove  the  injustice 
of  his  demand  and  the  fallacy  of  the  premises  upon  which  it  was  based,  but 
all  to  no  purpose.     The  Captain  was  inflexible. 

Meanwhile,  the  American  troops  had  crossed  the  river,  and  were  drawn 
up  in  front  of  the  Texans  ready  for  action.  It  was  vain  for  a  force  of 
eighty  men  to  attempt  holding  out  against  one  hundred  and  sixty  United 
States  Dragoons,  backed  by  two  field-pieces.  Retreat,  too,  was  impracti- 
cable, and  they  accordingly  surrendered  their  arms,  upon  Texan  territory, 
in  compliance  with  the  unjust  demands  of  the  American  commander. 

Forty  of  the  prisoners  were  escorted  to  Fort  Leavenworth,  and  the  re- 
mainder set  at  liberty,  and  left  with  only  twelve  rifles  to  fight  their  way  back 
to  Texas,  through  the  heart  of  the  Cumanche  country.  They  had,  how- 
ever, previously  managed  to  secrete  a  quantity  of  arms  and  ammunition, 
and,  in  a  few  minutes  subsequent  to  their  release,  were  fully  equipped  and 
ready  to  meet  a  Mexican  force  of  eight  times  their  number. 

Col.  Warfield  was  elected  commander  of  the  newly  organized  company, 
who  immediately  set  out  in  quest  of  the  enemy. 

But  here  a  new  obstacle  presented  itself; — the  whole  country  was  swarm- 
ing with  Cumanche  and  Kuyawa  Indians  ;  so  much  so  that  a  further  pro- 
secution of  the  campaign  must  inevitably  prove  most  disastrous.  This 
circumstance  led  to  the  abandonment  of  the  purposes  of  the  expedition,  and 
the  scanty  remnants  of  the  army  engaged  in  it  took  up  their  line  of  march 
for  Texas,  where  they  arrived  during  the  month  of  July  following,  wasted 
by  toil  and  suffering,  as  well  as  by  repeated  conflicts  with  a  relentless 
savage  foe. 

Thus  ended  the  second  attempt  to  subjugate  the  province  of  Santa  Fe  to 
the  government  of  the  new-born  Republic  of  Texas. 

A  few  days  preceding  this  grand  finale,  a  small  party,  including  myself, 
commenced  its  journey  to  the  mountains  adjoining  the  head  waters  of  the 
Platte  river.  We  were  all  on  foot,  and  suffered  greatly  from  fatigue  and 
thirst  during  our  dreary  march  over  the  plains  of  burning  sand  and  withered 
stubble  that  impeded  our  progress  for  some  distance. 

Crossing  the  Arkansas  at  a  point  several  miles  below  Bent's  Fort,  we 
proceeded  up  one  of  the  numerous  dry  creeks  finding  their  discharge  into 
that  stream  from  the  north,  and,  on  the  fifth  day  subsequent,  arrived  at  a 
grove  of  cottonwood,  upon  a  watercourse  near  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  "  Divide,"  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  several  tributaries  of  both 
the  Platte  and  Kansas  rivers.  Here  the  abundance  of  buffalo  induced  four 
of  us  to  remain  for  a  short  time,  while  the  others  continued  their  course. 

The  intermediate  country  from  the  Arkansas  to  this  place,  presents  an 
uninviting  aspect,  and,  though  not  naturally  sterile,  is  rendered  repulsive 
from  its  extreme  aridity.  The  creeks  are  most  of  them  mere  beds  of  sand, 
entirely  destitute  of  water,  except  at  brief  intervals  when  their  percolated 
currents  are  shown  in  brackish  pools,  soon  again  to  inhume  themselves  in 
the  willing  earth. 

There  is  rarely  a  tree  in  the  whole  distance,  which  circumstance  adds 


COMICAL   ADVENTURE.  07 1 

much  to  the  cheerlessness  of  its  solitude.  A  general  scarcity  of  rock  also 
prevails,  and  the  only  specimens  I  noticed  were  exhibited  in  the  banks  of 
watercourses,  and  consisted  of  slate  and  fossiliferous  limestone  (formed  of 
an  extinct  species  of  shell-fish,  principally  bivalves.)  The  soil  in  many 
places  might  be  called  fertile,  and,  were  it  not  for  lack  of  moisture,  could 
be  turned  to  good  account  for  agricultural  purposes. 

The  landscape  is  generally  undulating,  disclosing  at  the  north  and  north- 
east broken  ridges  of  hills,  which  were  now  and  then  surmounted  by  scat- 
tering pines. 

The  buffalo  having  left  the  vicinity  soon  after  our  arrival,  we  again 
moved  camp  eight  or  ten  miles,  to  Beaver  creek,  an  affluent  of  the 
Platte,  where  we  remained  for  fifteen  or  twenty  days. 

Our  stay  at  this  place  was  one  continued  series  of  feasting,  as  we  lacked 
nothing  of  all  the  varied  delicacies  procurable  in  a  country  abounding  with 
game.  But  one  item  in  our  entertainment  was  indeed  a  novelty, — viz  . 
crows'  eggs.  Almost  every  tree  and  bush,  skirting  the  creek  at  intervals 
for  miles  above  and  below,  had  been  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  countless 
swarms  of  crows  that  populated  the  surrounding  prairie.  Sometimes  four 
or  five  nests  of  these  birds  might  be  seen  upon  a  single  tree.  On  two  or 
three  occasions  I  obtained  from  six  to  ten  dozen  of  eggs  in  the  course  of 
an  hour.  These,  whether  boiled,  roasted,  or  fried,  were  found  quite  an  ac- 
ceptable addition  to  our  bill  of  daily  fare. 

The  climate  of  this  region  is  evidently  less  mild,  and  its  warm  season 
much  shorter,  than  is  common  to  other  places  in  the  same  latitude. 

It  was  now  the  middle  of  June,  and  yet  the  wild  fruits,  currants,  cherries, 
and  plums,  were  only  in  blossom,  and  all  other  kinds  of  vegetation  assumed 
the  appearance  of  recent  spring.  Indeed,  the  day  succeeding  our  arrival, 
snow  fell  to  a  depth  of  three  or  four  inches,  and  remained  upon  the  ground 
for  several  hours.  Whether  such  occurrences  are  common,  I  have  not  the 
necessary  information  to  decide. 

In  our  excursions  after  game,  the  remains  of  an  Indian  fort  had  been 
discovered  in  a  small  grove,  a  short  distance  below  camp,  which  received 
the  honor  of  our  subsequent  occupancy.  A  few  hours  devoted  to  repairs 
rendered  it  a  complete  shelter  from  either  wind  or  rain ;  and,  still  farther 
to  enhance  its  conveniences,  we  succeeded  in  digging  a  small  well  adjoin- 
ing the  entrance,  thus  securing  a  most  welcome  supply  of  cool  water. 
Here  revelling  in  the  midst  of  plenty,  with  nothing  to  think  of  or  care  for 
but  our  own  personal  comforts,  we  had  no  mind  to  exchange  our  situation 
for  the  fatigues  of  war  and  the  drudgery   of  camp-duty. 

Several  incidents  also  occurred  in  the  interim  to  enliven  the  scene  and 
relieve  its  otherwise  dull  monotony.  On  one  occasion  a  strolling  wolf, 
venturing  too  near  camp,  received  the  contents  of  my  rifle  and  instantly 
fell.  Supposing  the  shot  to  be  a  fatal  one,  I  advanced  and  seized  him  by 
the  tail  with  the  design  of  taking  his  skin. 

But  the  creature,  having  been  only  stunned  by  a  neck  wound,  now  re- 
vived in  full  strength,  and,  enraged  at  his  rough  treatment,  called  into  ex- 
ercise the  utmost  tension  of  his  energies  to  afford  a  bitter  sample  of  the 
fierceness  of  wolfine  vengeance.     Here  was  a  quandary — to  relinquish 


272  THE  NOCTURNAL  WARBLER. 

the  hold  would  have  been  to  invite  a  doubtful  collision — to  allow  him  an 
instant's  time  for  turning  upon  me,  must  have  proved  equally  perilous ; — 
the  only  resource  was  to  retain  my  grasp  with  twofold  energy,  and  run 
backwards  as  fast  as  possible,  which  I  did,  pulling  the  struggling  beast 
after  me, — now  twisting  this  way,  now  that  way,  in  vain  effort  to  attack, 
—and  growling  and  snapping  his  teeth  with  all  the  ferocity  of  his  sav- 
age   nature. 

What  would  have  been  the  result  of  this  strange  adventure,  it  is  hard  to 
tell,  were  it  not  that  one  of  my  camp-mates  hastened  to  the  rescue,  and 
with  a  club  despatched  his  wolfship  At  any  rate  I  had  no  curiosity  to 
submit  the  question  to  a  further  test. 

With  us  the  practice  of  early  rising  was  remembered  only  as  the  whim 
of  visionary  theorists,  and  this  important  item  in  the  routine  of  daily  du- 
ties, was  often  postponed  to  an  unreasonable  hour.  Once  we  came  very 
near  paying  dearly  for  the  indulgence.  The  sun  had  told  more  than  two 
hours  of  his  daily  round,  and  only  one  of  our  number  had  doffed  the  drow- 
siness of  sleep  and  betaken  himself  to  an  eminence  to  scan  the  surround- 
ing solitude.  Here  the  first  object  that  met  his  gaze  was  a  war-party  of 
mounted  savages,  advancing  upon  him  at  full  charge. 

He  had  scarcely  time  to  reach  camp  and  give  the  alarm,  when  the  whole 
troop  came  pouring  in  upon  all  sides  with  the  rapidity  of  a  torrent,  making 
the  air  resound  with  their  terrific  yells.  Seizing  my  arms  I  was  the  first 
to  meet  the  assailants,  and,  levelling  at  them,  made  signs  that  an  advance 
would  be  at  their  peril.  Upon  this  they  recoiled,  and  shouted  at  the  top 
of  their  voices,  u  Amigos !  Arapahos  /"  accompanied  with  the  signs  of 
friendship  and  their  nation. 

Satisfied  of  the  truth  of  theso  declarations,  we  permitted  them  to  come 
up,  and,  in  a  few  minutes,  all  were  quietly  seated,  and  the  "pipe"  per- 
forming its  tireless  rounds. 

Our  boldness  in  daring  to  offer  a  resistance  greatly  excited  their  sur- 
prise, and  the  more  so,  as  we  had  only  four  rifles,  while  they  had  many 
arrows,  and  were  more  than  ten  times  our  number.  An  old  chief,  after 
listening  to  their  remarks,  replied  : 

"  My  people  must  not  deceive  themselves.  The  pale  faces  are  brave 
and  kill  their  enemies  a  long  way  off.  Those  "  said  he,  pointing  to  a 
brace  of  pistols,  "  would  have  laid  many  of  my  warriors  low,  after  the 
medicine-irons  had  spoken  their  death-words.  The  Great  Spirit  has  taught 
the  pale-face  how  to  fight." 

Our  visitors  had  at  first  supposed  us  a  war-party  of  Pawnees,  and  came 
with  the  full  design  of  securing  a  scalp-dance.  Had  they  caught  us  nap- 
ping, without  doubt  our  own  lives  would  have  been  substituted  for  those 
of  their  enemies. 

In  a  few  hours  the  motley  crew  again  resumed  their  course,  and  left  us 
to  the  undisturbed  enjoyment  of  our  sequestered  retreat,  thankful  indeed 
to  be  free  from  their  presence. 

In  addition  to  the  howling  of  wild  beasts  and  the  hooting  of  prairie-owls 
by  night,  the  locality  afforded  other  music  to  sooth  the  hours  of  slumber. 
A  bird  of  unknown  species  had  built  her  nest  in  the  boughs  of  a  cotton- 


LOST.  273 

wood  that  expanded  directly  over  our  heads,  and  devoted  her  maternal  care 
to  the  sustenance  of  her  fledgelings.  But  her  unwearied  industry  by  day 
less  commanded  our  admiration  than  the  sweet  melody  of  her  nocturnal 
warblings. 

Soon  as  the  "  pointers  "  told  the  "  noon  of  night,"  her  song  commenced 
in  all  its  variations,  like  the  soft  breathings  of  an  angel's  lute,  nor  ceased 
till  the  gray  of  morning  broke  from  the  empurpled  east.  Often  have  I 
listened  half  dreamingly  to  the  bewitching  notes  that  mingled  with  the 
harsh  discord  of  the  wilderness  around  me,  and  fancied  myself  guarded  by 
celestial  spirits  against  the  assaults  of  harm. 

With  such  kindly  thoughts,  who  might  not  mount  in  his  slumbers  on 
the  wings  of  imagination,  and  step  from  star,  as  'mid  the  changeless  realms 
of  bliss. 


CHAPTER   XXXII. 

Lost. — Night  on  the  Prairie. — Head  of  the  Kansas  river. — Minerals. — Country. — 
Gold. — Wonderful  incident  relative  to  a  wounded  bull. — Indians. — Join  the  Arapa- 
hos. — Moving  village. — Country  between  Beaver  creek  and  the  Platte.' — Canon. — 
Reach  Fort  Lancaster. — Fortune  bettered. — News  from  the  States. — Murder. — Ex- 
traordinary instances  of  human  tenacity  to  life. — Arrival  of  Indians. — Theft. — 
Chyenne  outrage.— Return  of  Oregon  emigrants.—"  Old  Bob,"  and  his  adventures.— 
A  "  Protracted  Meeting,"  or  Indian  Medicine-making. — Indian  oath. — Jaunt  to  the 
mountains. — Mountain  scenery. — Camp  on  Thompson's  creek. — Wild  fruits. — Con- 
centration of  valleys. — Romantic  view. — A  gem  in  the  mountains. — Grand  river 
pass. — Salt  lakes. — Astonishing  scope  of  vision. — The  black-tailed  deer. — Peculi- 
arity in  horses. — Remarkable  natural  fortification. — Return. — Travelling  by  guess. 

One  day,  on  leaving  camp  in  quest  of  game,  I  carelessly  travelled  till 
near  sundown,  without  success.  The  hills,  hollows,  and  ravines  which 
intersected  my  way  and  continually  changed  its  bearings,  so  completely 
bewildered  me,  that,  as  night  shut  down  upon  the  cheerless  expanse,  I 
found  myself  far  away  from  any  suitable  camping-place,  and  alone  amid 
the  realms  of  loneliness.  Thus  conditioned,  I  was  forced  to  submit  to 
circumstances,  and  accordingly  accepted  of  such  lodgings  as  nature  af- 
forded. 

My  lonely  and  dangerous  situation,  with  the  thrilling  sensations  expe- 
rienced during  the  interval,  gave  birth  to  the  following  lines,  which,  by  aid 
of  a  rude  pencil  formed  from  a  bullet,  were  next  morning  traced  upon  a 
small  scrap  of  paper.  I  submit  them  to  the  reader,  not  that  they  possess 
any  intrinsic  merit,  but  because  they  will  enable  him  to  derive  some  faint 
idea  of  the  terrific  wildness  and  beauty  of  the  surrounding  scenes. 


274  NIGHT  ON  THE  PRAIRIE. 

NIGHT  ON  THE  PRAIRIE. 

I. 

'  The  sable  garb  of  darkness  clothes  the  land, 
And  twilight's  sickly  hue  bids  day  farewell ; 

The  prairie's  vast  expanse  on  either  hand 
Marks  solitude's  domain.     O'er  hill  and  dell, 

And  wide-extended  plain,  I  cast  my  eyes, 
To  view,  perchance,  some  grove  or  fav'ring  stream, 
And  hie  me  thitherward  while  yet  the  gleam 

Of  day's  fast-failing  light  bepaints  the  skies 

With  tints  scarce  seen, — for  there  I'd  seek  repose, — 

But  for  them  look  in  vain ;  so  here,  alone, 
Wearied  and  worn,  I  sit  me  down  and  close 

My  tiresome  wanderings, — nor  bate  to  own 
The  chilling  thrill  of  terror  o'er  me  creeps, 
And  from  my  mind  all  thoughts  of  slumber  keeps ! 

II. 

Oh,  Solitude  !  First-born  of  Night !  'Tis  here 
Thy  reign  is  undisputed  !  Here  no  noise 

Of  human  feet  doth  greet  thy  list'ning  ear, — 
Save  chance  as  mine,  or  savage  want  enjoys 

His  arms  at  chase  or  rage  at  bloody  war  ! — 

Here  haunts  the  beast  of  prey.     The  starved  wolfs  howl 
In  ceaseless  concert  swells !     The  midnight  owl 

Joins  in  his  dolesome  lay  ; — the  raven's  caw 

Loud  mingles  with  the  panther's  yell, — and  then 

The  hoarse-toned  bison  grunts  his  bass,  and  makes 
Thy  dismal  realm  more  drear  to  lonely  men. 

iEolus  here  his  fresh-form'd  wind  awakes, 

And  marks  its  speed  unchecked ;  whose  whistling  moan 
O'er  thy  domain  makes  loneliness  more  lone ! 

III. 

My  thoughts,  now  kindred  to  the  scene,  arise 
In  hurried  flight,  whose  hideous  aspects  wake, 

Full  quick,  imagination's  sleepless  eyes, 

That  conjure  up  such  frightful  forms  as  shake 

The  boldest  hearts  with  dread.     In  every  herb 

Of  prouder  growth, — whose  prongs  the  sweeping  blast 
Hath  taught  to  move, — some  foe  of  savage  cast 

Appears  and  threatens  ill,  as  if  to  curb 

The  onward  progress  of  the  god  of  sleep : — 

(For  here  man  sees  his  fellow  man,  unknown, 
As  foe ;  and,  arm'd  for  fight,  he  minds  to  ke"ep 

The  strictest  watch,  lest,  from  advantage  shown, 
He  tempt  unlucky  war.)     So  hurriedly 
I  snatch  my  arms  to  tight  each  form  I  see  ! 


NIGHT  ON  THE  PRAIRIE.  275 


IV. 

But,  why  thus  fear  ?     Give  place,  ye  visions  dread  ! 

Ye  thoughts  of  boding  danger,  drearisome, 
Cease  to  oppress  !     Is  not  the  path  I  tread 

So  by  Omniscience  mark'd,  that  perils  come 
Not  near,  to  even  hurt  a  single  hair, 

Without  His  wise  permit  ?     Are  not  my  days 

Securely  meted  out,  and  all  my  ways 
So  guarded,  too,  that  thronging  dangers  share 

No  part  in  harm's  advance  or  death's  progress 
Till  all  are  told  ?     And  can  my  vigilance, 

Father'd  by  childish  fear,  make  more  or  less 
The  given  sum  ?     Cheerly,  draw  courage  thence, 

My  cowering  heart ;  feel  safety  here.     Give  room 

To  other  thoughts,  and  chase  these  clouds  of  gloom  ! 

V. 

Thus,  banished  fear,  at  reason's  bid,  I  cast 

My  willing  gaze  toward  heaven.     In  every  star 

That  forms  the  sparkling  crown  of  night,  though  fast 
In  regions  of  unbounded  space,  so  far 

As  scarcely  seen  by  mortal  ken, — appears 
Some  guardian  angel,  robed  in  light,  to  keep 
His  ceaseless  vigils  o'er  my  couch  of  sleep, 

Lest  in  my  slumbering  moments  danger  near 
To  cut  the  thread  of  life,  and  thus  undo 

The  purposes  of  God.     The  silver  moon 
Sheds  forth  her  radiance  unconfined,  and  through 

The  desert  wild  to  flower  and  herb  gives  boon, 
And  decks  each  blade  with  dewy  pearls,  and  pours 
Them  on  the  earth,  to  cheer  my  waking  hours. 

VI. 

Nature's  vast  caravansera,  above, 

Below,  around,  on  either  side,  begirt 
With  midnight's  varied  splendors,  scenes  I  love, 

Becomes  enchantment's  self,  while  zephyrs  sport 
The  fragrance  of  the  wild-flowers  multiform, 

And  greet  my  nostrils  with  their  rich  perfume, 

To  please  my  senses.     Thus  my  thoughts  resume 
Their  wonted  course,  and  hush  the  passing  storm 

Of  fear.     Alone  !     Not  lonely  I.     For  here 
E'en  loneliness  companion  proves  to  me, 

And  solitude  is  company.     My  ear 
Drinks  music  from  these  savage  sounds ;  I  see 

Amusements  in  these  forms  ;  my  heart's  as  strong, 

And  easy  beats,   as  'mid  a  city's  throng ! 
24 


276  THE  GOLD  REGION. 


VII. 

To  me  thrice  welcome  then,  ye  prairies  wild  ! 

Midnight,  and  gloom,  and  solitude,  ye  please 
My  restless  fancy !     Welcome  then  your  child  ! — 

For  here's  my  home.     And  so,  with  mind  at  ease, 
I  will  embrace  my  mother  earth,  and  court 

The  soothing  power  of  sleep.     The  clear  blue  sky 

My  canopy,  the  ground  my  bed,  I  lie 
Encurtain'd  by  the  pale  moon-beams,  which  sport 

Beside  my  lowly  conch,  and  light  the  dew 
With  mimic  diamonds'  glow — while  flowers  around 

My  pillow'd  head  their  willing  incense  strew, 
And  the  sweet  dreaming  bird  anon  doth  sound 

Some  isolated  note  of  melody  ! — 

Thus  chamber 'd  here,  may  not  kings  envy  me  ? 

My  return  to  camp  the  next  day  served  to  quiet  the  apprehensions  that 
had  been  experienced  on  my  account  during  the  interim. 

This  excursion  took  me  some  fifteen  miles  eastward,  to  the  head  waters 
of  the  Kansas  river.  The  country  in  that  neighborhood  wore  a  barren 
aspect,  and  was  generally  sandy  and  undulating. 

I  noticed  a  kind  of  mineral  substance,  of  a  jetty  lustrous  appearance, 
which  I  took  to  be  black-lead.  I  also  remarked  certain  indications  of  gold, 
but  whether  this  metal  actually  exists  here  I  am  unable  to  say ;  yet  true  it 
is,  the  surface  affords  large  quantities  of  "  gold  blossom,"  and  it  is  said 
also,  that  gold  has  been  found  in  these  parts. 

The  region  lying  upon  the  head  branches  of  the  Kansas  river  is  con- 
sidered very  dangerous, — it  being  the  war-ground  of  the  Pawnees,  Caws, 
Chyennes,  Sioux,  and  Arapahos, — and  hence  comparatively  little  is  known 
of  its  character  and  resources.  It  is  represented  as  quite  sandy  and 
sterile  back  from  the  watercourses,  and  in  many  other  places  but  little 
better  than  a  desert  waste.  The  gold  story  alluded  to  in  the  preceding 
paragraph  came  to  me  from  various  sources,  in  the  following  shape  : 

Some  twenty  years  since,  while  the  Arapahos  were  at  hostilities  with 
the  whites,  a  war-party  of  that  tribe  advanced  against  the  Pawnees,  led  on 
by  a  noted  chief,  called  "  Whirlwind."  Three  only  of  them  had  guns,  and 
they  soon  expended  their  stock  of  bullets  in  shooting  small  game,  there  be- 
ing no  buffalo  upon  the  route.  Finally,  left  without  any  thing  to  eat,  they 
became  discouraged,  and  a  council  was  held  to  discuss  the  expediency  of 
relinquishing  the  expedition. 

Having  seated  themselves  upon  a  small  eminence,  the  question  of  return 
was  debated  with  great  earnestness, — a  majority  being  in  the  affirmative. 
But  the  head  chief,  "  Whirlwind,"  bringing  all  his  eloquence  to  bear  upon 
the  opposite  side,  at  last  obtained  their  consent  to  proceed. 

During  the  conference,  several  small  pieces  of  a  glittering  yellow  sub- 
stance were  discovered  upon  the  surface,  which  proved  soft  and  easily 
worked  into  any  shape.  From  these  a  supply  of  bullets  was  procured, 
and,  resuming  their  course,  they  soon  after  met  the  Pawnees,  with  whom 


JOIN  ARAP AIIOS.  277 


they  fought,   and   were   victorious, — every  bullet  discharged  killing   an 
enemy. 

This  victory  was  so  signal  and  complete,  that  the  superstitious  warriors 
attributed  it  solely  to  the  medicine-doings  of  the  yellow  balls, — three  or  four 
of  which  were  finally  buried  with  the  chief  at  his  death.  The  only  white 
man  permitted  to  see  them,  describes  them  as  having  been  precisely  the 
color  of  brass, — very  soft  and  heavy.  Admitting  that  the  story  is  true,  * 
there  are  doubtless  very  rich  mines  of  gold  in  this  vicinity,  that  being  the 
only  metal  assimilating  brass  in  color. 

Previous  to  our  leaving  Beaver  creek,  an  incident  occurred  showing  the 
remarkable  tenacity  of  life  peculiar  to  buffalo. 

An  old  bull  appeared  in  the  distance,  travelling  at  a  rapid  rate  almost 
directly  towards  camp.  Being  in  want  of  a  re-supply  of  fresh  meat,  I 
seized  my  rifle  and  advanced  to  intercept  him.  Owing  to  the  unfavorable 
state  of  the  wind,  I  was  forced  to  make  so  long  a  shot  that  the  ball  fell  some 
two  feet  below  the  mark,  and  struck  near  the  knee-joint  of  the  fore  leg, 
shivering  it  to  pieces. 

Still,  however,  the  animal  kept  on,  with  scarcely  diminished  speed,  and 
held  me  a  chase  of  three  miles  or  more  before  I  could  overtake  him  to  fin- 
ish the  work.  At  length  he  was  dispatched ;  but,  on  butchering  him,  I 
was  "  surprised  to  find  a  third  bullet-wound,  apparently  three  or  four  days 
old.  The  ball  was  full  one-half  the  size  of  my  own,  and,  incredible  as  it 
may  seem,  had  penetrated  the  butt  of  the  buffalo's  heart. 

I  could  scarcely  believe  my  own  eyes, — yet  such  was  the  fact.  The 
creature  had  survived  a  heart-shot  for  days,  and  then,  with  a  broken  leg, 
had  held  me  a  chase  of  three  miles. 

Our  final  adventure  at  this  camp,  was  with  a  party  of  Indians.  Having 
discovered  the  latter,  early  one  morning,  and  supposing  them  Pawnees, 
we  prepared  for  an  encounter.  The  objects  of  our  apprehension,  mista- 
king us  for  the  same,  continued  manoeuvring  upon  the  adjoining  hills  the 
entire  day,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  lead  us  to  conclude  the  whole 
country  was  filled  with  Indians. 

Toward  sundown,  after  vainly  endeavoring  to  procure  an  attendant,  I 
armed  myself  and  proceeded  alone  to  the  spot  where  they  had  been  last 
seen,  determined  to  discover,  if  possible,  the  nature  and  extent  of  the 
danger  that  awaited  us.  Here,  a  single  warrior  advanced  to  meet  me, — 
giving  signs  of  friendship  and  of  his  nation.  In  answer  to  the  inquiry, 
why  his  party  had  acted  so  strangely,  he  said  they  had  thought  us  enemies, 
and  were  afraid. 

He  accompanied  me  to  camp,  and,  soon  after  his  companions  came  up*, 
but,  instead  of  the  powerful  war-party  of  Pawnees  awaiting  to  slaugnter 
us  by  night,  as  our  imaginations  had  depicted,  and  their  cunning  move- 
ments led  us  to  infer,  they  proved  but  three  Arapaho  warriors,  three  squaws, 

*  The  country  adjacent  to  the  head  branches  of  the  Kansas  river  is  but  little 
known  to  the  whites,  who  seldom  visit  it  on  account  of  its  dangerous  nature.  That 
valuable  minerals  are  contained  in  its  soil  is  quite  probable,  and  no  doubt  ihey  will 
be  brought  to  light  upon  due  research. 

/ 


278  PREVAILING  ROCK. 

and  two  children.  Our  surprise  at  this  laughable  denouement  was  only 
equalled  by  their  own. 

They  announced  themselves  in  search  of  the  Arapaho  village,  and  ex- 
pressed much  pleasure  at  meeting  with  the  whites.  Our  visitors  having 
passed  the  night  with  us,  the  next  morning  we  yielded  to  their  solicitations, 
and  set  out  with  them  to  the  village,  some  eighteen  miles  distant,  in  a 
northwest  direction. 

"About  noon  we  arrived  at  the  place,  and  found  six  or  seven  hundred 
lodges  of  Arapahos,  Chyennes,  and  Sioux,  encamped  in  a  large  valley 
skirting  a  small  affluent  of  Beaver  creek. 

The  village,  being  prepared  to  move,  in  a  few  moments  succeeding  our 
arrival,  was  en  route  for  the  Platte  river.  The  spectacle  was  novel  and 
imposing.  Lodge  followed  lodge  in  successive  order, — forming  vast  pro- 
cessions for  miles  in  length.  Squaws,  children,  horses,  and  dogs,  mingling 
in  promiscuous  throng,  covered  the  landscape  in  every  direction,  and  gave 
it  the  aspect  of  one  dense  mass  of  life  and  animation. 

Here  a  troop  of  gorgeously  dressed  and  gaily  painted  damsels,  all  ra- 
diant with  smiles  and  flaunting  in  conscious  beauty,  bestriding  richly  ca- 
parisoned horses,  excited  the  admiration  and  commanded  the  homage  of 
gallantry  ;  there  a  cavalcade  of  young  warriors,  bedaubed  with  fantastic 
colors — black,  red,  white,  blue,  or  yellow,  in  strict  accordance  with  savage 
taste — habited  in  their  nicest  attire,  swept  proudly  along,  chanting  their 
war-deeds  in  measured  accents  to  the  deep-toned  drum ;  and  then  another 
band  of  pompous  horsemen  scoured  the  spreading  plain,  in  eager  race  to 
test  the  speed  of  their  foaming  chargers ;  and,  yet  again,  a  vast  army  of 
mounted  squaws,  armed  with  the  implements  for  root-digging,  spread  far 
and  wide  in  search  of  the  varied  products  of  the  prairie ;  then,  among  the 
moving  mass,  passed  slowly  along  the  travees,  conveying  the  aged,  infirm, 
and  helpless,  screened  from  the  heat  of  a  summer's  sun  by  awnings  of  skins, 
that  beshaded  their  cradled  occupants, — while  immense  trains  of  pack-ani- 
mals, heavily  laden  with  provisions  and  camp  equipage,  as  they  crowded 
amid  the  jogging  multitudes,  united  to  complete  the  picture  of  a  travelling 
Indian  village. 

Yielding  to  the  request  of  our  new  friends,  we  proceeded  with  them  ten 
or  twelve  miles  further  and  passed  the  night  in  their  lodge. 

Our  route  from  Beaver  creek  led  over  a  tumulous  country,  interspersed 
with  valleys  of  a  rich  soil,  and  prolific  in  rank  vegetation.  The  side-hills 
afforded  large  quantities  of  po?nme  blanc,  and  the  prairies  and  bottoms  a 
splendid  array  of  choice  floral  beauties. 

The  creeks  disclosed  wide,  sandy  beds,  often  dry  and  skirted  by  broad 
valleys  which  were  passably  well  timbered.  The  principal  ridges  were 
not  high,  but  surmounted  by  dense  pine  forests,  with  pleasant  openings, 
smiling  in  all  the  loveliness  of  spring. 

Notwithstanding  the  scanty  volumes  of  the  streams,  the  country  presents 
to  the  traveller  the  appearance  of  being  well  watered  by  frequent  rains, 
while  ever  and  anon  a  gurgling  fountain  strikes  upon  his  ear  with  its  soft 
music. 

Stratified  rock  is  usually  rare;  the  only  species  noticed  were  limestone 
and  sandstone.      I  remarked  a  great  abundance  of  silex  and    hornblend, 


HUMAN  TENACITY  TO  LIFE.  279 


with  some  curious  specimens  of  ligneous  petri fractions.  The  only  indica- 
tion of  minerals  observable,  was  that  of  iron  and  coal. 

The  entire  section  from  Beaver  to  Cherry  creek  possesses  nearly  the 
same  geological  and  mineralological  character.  Its  indigenous  produc- 
tions are  such  as  are  common  to  the  mountain  prairies,  and  are  found  in 
equal  abundance  ; — a  remark  which  will  also  apply  to  its  game. 

As  a  whole,  perhaps  two-thirds  of  it  might  be  cultivated,  to  some  extent, 
were  it  not  for  unseasonable  frosts  ;  and  all  of  it  might  be  turned  to  godd 
account  for  stock-raising. 

The  next  day  we  bade  farewell  to  our  Indian  friends,  (leaving  behind  us 
one  of  our  number,  who  chose  to  accompany  them  to  the  Fort,)  and  again 
launched  forth  upon  the  broad  expanse.  Bearing  a  course  west-northwest, 
about  noon  of  the  second  day  we  struck  Cherry  creek,  some  thirty-five  or 
forty  miles  above  its  mouth  ; — thence,  crossing  the  lofty  plateaux,  on  the 
west,  with  two  or  three  intervening  creeks,  toward  evening  of  the  third 
day  we  reached  the  Platte  river  at  its  exit  from  the  mountains. 

Our  intention  was  to  enter  the  mountains  and  spend  a  few  weeks  in 
deer-hunting ;  but,  the  river  proving  impassable,  on  account  of  high  water, 
we  were  compelled  to  forego  that  purpose  for  the  present,  and  accordingly 
started  for  Fort  Lancaster  to  procure  a  re-supply  of  ammunition. 

Continuing  down  the  Platte,  on  the  third  day  we  reached  our  destination, 
and  were  kindly  received,  though  humorously  rallied  upon  our  way-worn 
and  forlorn  appearance.  Nor  were  we  backward  to  join  the  laugh,  occa- 
sionally retorting,  when  the  jocose  current  set  too  strong  against  us, 
"  Well,  what  do  you  know  about  war  1 — You've  never  been  to  Texas  !" 

The  6th  of  July  dated  our  arrival, — the  glorious  fourth  having  been  spent 
in  plodding  over  a  broad  prairie,  on  foot,  with  rifles  upon  our  shoulders  and 
packs  upon  our  backs.  By  comparison,  I  concluded  my  fortune  had  slight- 
ly improved  since  July  4th  of  the  preceding  year,  which  found  me  in  a 
cheerless  prairie,  on  foot,  packing  my  bed,  almost  naked,  without  knife  or 
gun,  or  having  had  a  mouthfull  to  eat  for  two  days  previous. 

Capt.  Fremont,  elsewhere  spoken  of,  had  just  arrived  from  the  States  on  an 
expedition  to  Oregon,  ordered  by  the  United  States  Government,  and  brought 
intelligence  of  an  existing  armistice  between  Mexico  and  Texas.  Accom- 
panying his  party  was  one  whom  I  recognized  as  an  old  acquaintance 
of  other  lands,  the  first  and  only  one  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  with 
during  my  long  sojourn  in  the  country. 

July  llth,  witnessed  the  death  of  an  old  mountaineer  at  Fort  Lancas- 
ter, who  came  to  his  end  from  the  effects  of  a  pistol  wound  received  in  a 
drunken  frolic  on  the  4th.  The  ball  entered  the  back  about  two  inches 
below  the  heart,  severely  fracturing  the  vertebrae  and  nearly  severing  the 
spinal  marrow. 

He  lived  just  one  week  succeeding  the  occurrence,  but  meanwhile  suf- 
fered more  than  the  agonies  of  death.  His  body  below  the  wound  was  en- 
tirely devoid  of  feeling  or  use  from  the  first,  and,  as  death  preyed  upon  him 
by  piecemeal,  he  would  often  implore  us  with  most  piteous  and  heart-melt- 
ing appeals  kindly  to  ease  his  miseries  by  hastening  his  end.  The  mur- 
derer was  left  at  large,  and  in  two  or  three  weeks  subsequent  accompanied 
Capt.  Fremont  to  Oregon. 

24* 


280  «  OLD  BOB.' 

The  above  is  the  most  remarkable  exhibition  of  human  tenacity  to  life 
that  ever  came  under  my  personal  observation ;  I  have,  however,  heard 
of  instances  far  more  extraordinary.  The  case  of  Ex-Governor  Boggs,  of 
Mo.,  in  '41,  who  recovered  from  the  eflects  of  a  wound,  that  not  only  frac- 
tured his  scull,  but  actually  emitted  particles  of  the  brain,  is  doubtless  well 
known ;  yet  another  of  like  nature,  still  more  wonderful  in  its  details,  oc- 
curred to  an  old  French  trapper,  named  Augustine  Clermont,  with  whom 
I  am  well  acquainted. 

Clermont,  in  an  affray  with  a  Spaniard,  had  been  prostrated  by  a  blow 
that  fractured  his  scull  in  the  occiput.  His  antagonist  then  fell  upon  him 
and  thrust  the  point  of  a  knife  into  the  brain  repeatedly,  and  finally  left  him 
for  dead. 

Soon  after,  he  was  found  by  his  friends  in  this  deplorable  situation,  who, 
on  perceiving  he  yet  breathed,  kindly  dressed  his  wounds,  and  bestowed 
upon  him  the  attention  his  situation  demanded,  and  in  a  short  time  he  be- 
came perfectly  sound  and  hearty. 

July  13th.  The  Indian  village  before  spoken  of,  on  its  way  in  quest  of 
buffalo,  visited  the  Fort,  and,  as  is  customary  on  such  occasions,  the 
squaws  and  children  made  themselves  busy  in  appropriating  to  their  own  use 
such  little  articles  as  came  within  their  reach.  I  was  minus  a  blanket 
through  their  artfulness,  and  several  other  individuals  suffered  equally  with 
myself. 

Some  six  weeks  afterward  they  returned,  and  again  called  at  the  Fort, 
when,  recognizing  my  stolen  blanket  in  the  possession  of  a  young  warrior, 
I  immediately  took  it  from  him.  At  first  he  stoutly  resisted,  and  the  more 
so  as  several  hundred  of  his  tribe  were  present, — but,  all  to  no  purpose ; 
and  he  at  length  yielded,  as  he  saw  me  on  the  point  of  enforcing  my  claims 
to  it  in  a  more  feeling  way,  such  as  would  doubtless  have  endangered  his 
own  personal  safety. 

I  remained  at  Fort  Lancaster  for  two  months  or  more  ;  and  the  several 
incidents  which  occurred  in  the  interim  may  be  thus  briefly  summed  up : 

The  first  in  order  was  an  outrage  of  the  Chyennes,  in  cruelly  murdering 
the  young  man  with  whom  I  had  passed  a  portion  of  the  preceding  winter 
upon  Vasques'  creek. 

The  next  was  the  appearance  of  a  small  party  of  emigrants,  on  their  re- 
turn to  the  States, — having  become  displeased  with  the  management  of 
the  company  then  en  route  for  Oregon. 

A  third  was  the  arrival  of  one  of  the  four  men  who  had  left  for  the  Cim- 
arone  at  the  first  disbanding  of  the  Texan  volunteers,  and  were  subsequent- 
ly taken  prisoners  by  the  Mexicans. 

After  being  incarcerated  at  Santa  Fe  for  two  or  three  weeks,  they  were 
finally  liberated,  with  the  exception  of  one,  who  had  died  in  the  interval.  To- 
ward the  last  of  their  imprisonment,  they  were  treated  kindly,  owing  to  the 
exemplarv  conduct  of  the  Texans,  as  spoken  of  elsewhere. 

The  fellow  tnus  introduced,  responding  to  the  name  of  "  Old  Bob,"  made 
himself  quite  conspicuous  by  his  subsequent  conduct.  The  gentleman  in 
charge  at  Fort  Lancaster,  pitying  his  deplorable  condition,  kindly  afforded 
him  employment  at  a  liberal  compensation,  and  Old  Bob  set  to  work  faith- 


THE  WICKED  SHALL  NOT  GO  UNPUNISHED.  281 

fully.  In  the  course  of  twelve  or  fifteen  days,  however,  he  improved  the 
opportunity  of  stealing  a  rifle  and  ammunition,  with  which  he  absconded 
and  set  his  face  for  the  mountains. 

All  that  he  now  lacked  to  complete  his  equipment  was  a  good  horse,  which 
deficiency  seemed  luckily  made  up  by  the  discovery  of  one  recently  strayed 
from  the  Indians.  "  I  must  have  him,"  said  Bob.  So,  carelessly  dropping 
his  rifle  and  pack,  he  commenced  a  fruitless  effort  to  capture  the  erratic 
steed. 

For  a  while  his  success  seemed  almost  certain ;  but,  after  a  tedious  trial 
for  several  hours,  he  was  finally  obliged  to  relinquish  the  attempt,  and  turn- 
ed to  recover  his  rifle  and  pack.  Alas,  for  Old  Bob !  here  an  unlooked-for 
calamity  presented  itself — they  were  not  to  be  found ! 

Vainly  it  was  that  he  searched  diligently  for  four  successive  days,  en- 
during in  the  mean  time  all  the  pangs  of  hunger  and  the  goadings  of  a 
guilty  conscience — his  scrutiny  gave  not  the  slightest  indication  of  their 
whereabouts.  "  Truly,  '  the  way  of  transgressors  is  hard  !'  "  thought  Bob, 
as  with  reluctance  he  abandoned  all,*  and  despairingly  set  his  face  to  go- 
he  knew  not  whither ! — half-starved  and  half-naked,  with  neither  pistol,  gun, 
nor  butcher-knife,  for  his  defence  in  a  dangerous  country ;  nor  one  morsel 
to  renew  his  strength  by  day,  nor  even  a  solitary  rag  to  screen  him  from 
the  chill  air  of  night ! 

The  next  place  at  which  Old  Bob  showed  himself  was  at  an  Indian 
lodge,  thither  driven  by  the  impulse  of  hunger — having  starved  for  more 
than  five  successive  days.  Here  he  procured  a  temporary  supply  from  the 
compassionate  inmates,  who  also  kindly  gave  him  a  robe. 

Nothing  further  was  heard  of  him  for  eight  or  ten  days,  and  the  gener- 
ally conceded  opinion  was,  that  he  had  either  starved  to  death  or  had  been 
killed  by  savages,  when  an  express  from  the  Arkansas  brought  intelligence 
of  having  encountered  him  by  the  way. 

The  luckless  wight,  after  being  without  eating  for  five  or  six  more  days, 
had  been  robbed  by  the  Apache  Indians  of  everything  about  him  except  a 
pair  of  ragged  pantaloons,  and  barely  escaped  from  them  with  his  life  ! 
The  express  furnished  him  with  a  quantity  of  provisions,  a  pistol,  robe,  and 
ammunition,  when,  bidding  him  farewell,  the  two  resumed  their  respective 
courses. 

From  this  date,  his  story  is  briefly  told.  Pursuing  his  way  toward  the 
Arkansas,  he  soon  after  met  a  small  party  of  Mexican  traders,  and,  creep- 
ing upon  their  encampment  at  night,  helped  himself  to  a  couple  of  horses. 
u  It's  a  straight  road  that  has  no  turns,"  muttered  Old  Bob,  as  he  mounted 
one  of  them  and  returned  to  the  Platte,  where  he  bartered  the  other  for  a 
rifle  and  ammunition. 

For  a  brief  interval  he  seemed  to  prosper  in  his  iniquity,  but  erelong 
the  tables  were  again  turned  upon  him,  and  he  experienced  the  literal  ful- 
filment of  that  other  declaration  of  holy  writ  which  says,  u  The  wicked 
shall  not  go  unpunished." 

Elated  by  his  recent  success,  he  again  started  for  the  Arkansas,  with 

*  Two  weeks  subsequently,  while  on  a  hunting  excursion,  the  person  to  whom  the 
stolen  rifle  belonged  found  it,  with  all  the  property  of  the  thief ;— a  most  remarkable 
circumstance,  as  the  country  had  been  filled  with  strolling  Indians  during  the  interval 


282  A  PROTRACTED  MEETING. 


the  intent  of  renewing  his  depredations,  accompanied  by  two  other  adven- 
turers whom  he  had  pursuaded  to  become  the  partners  of  his  criminal  enter- 
prise ;  but,  before  proceeding  far,  he  fell  in  with  the  same  company  of  Mex- 
ican traders  from  whom  he  had  stolen  the  horses.  They  immediately  re- 
cognized him  and  the  animal  he  rode,  and  took  possession  of  the  latter. 
As  for  Old  Bob,  notwithstanding  his  protestations  of  innocence  and  stout 
resistance,  they  stripped  him  of  gun,  pistol,  and  ammunition — gave  him  a 
severe  flogging,  and  again  turned  him  adrift  upon  the  prairie,  destitute  of 
everything  except  the  baseness  of  his  own  heart ! 

"  Well,  Bob,"  said  one  of  his  comrades ;  "  this  business  appears  not  so 
profitable,  after  all ;  though  yoa,  doubtless,  have  become  quite  warmed  in 
its  pursuit.  For  my  own  part  I  shall  quit  it  before  I  begin,  and  return  to 
the  States." 

"  And  I,  too  ;"  chimed  in  the  other. 

"The  fact  is,"  replied  Bob,  " this  country  is  getting  rather  too  hot  forme, 
and  I'll  bear  you  company !     What  d'ye  say  to  that  ?" 

"  Just  as  you  like,"  responded  his  two  companions  ;  "  that  is,  provided 
you  wont  attempt  the  grab  game  on  us." 

"Come,  boys;  now  that's  too  bad !  Oh,  you  may  rest  assured  I  will 
never  repay  a  kindness  with  ingratitude,  neither  will  I  abuse  the  confidence 
of  friends." 

Thus  arranged,  the  three  started  on  their  way.  Coming  upon  a  camp  of 
hunters,  a  few  miles  below  Bent's  Fort,  they  concluded  to  remain  a  short 
time  in  order  to  procure  a  supply  of  meat  for  their  journey.  Here  our  slip- 
pery customer  borrowed  a  horse  and  rifle  of  his  comrade,  pretendedly  for  a 
buffalo  hunt,  and  under  a  most  solemn  pledge  of  returning  them ;  how- 
ever, on  finding  himself  again  armed  and  mounted,  he  was  not  slow  to  im- 
prove the  opportunity  of  bidding  an  abrupt  farewell  to  the  unsuspecting 
dupe,  and  resumed  his  course  toward  the  States. 

How  he  eventually  succeeded  through  this  last  shift,  I»am  unable  to  say  ; 
yet,  the  brief  story  of  his  adventures  thus  far  is  sufficient  to  prove,  that 
iniquity  sometimes,  even  in  this  life,  receives  a  severe  reward. 

Toward  the  last  of  August  the  Arapahos  and  Chyennes  held  a  grand 
convocation,  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Lancaster,  for  the  porpose  of  medicine- 
making  ;  or,  in  other  words,  paying  their  united  devotions  to  the  Great 
Spirit.  The  gathering  might  with  propriety  have  been  termed  a  "Protract- 
ed Meeting"  as  it  continued  for  three  successive  days  and  nights,  exclusive 
of  the  time  occupied  in  preliminary  arrangements. 

Besides  the  two  tribes  above  named,  a  large  number  of  Sioux,  Cuman- 
ches,  Blackfeet,  and  Riccarees,  were  present,  swelling  the  concourse  to 
nearly  a  thousand  lodges. 

The  regular  participants  in  the  ceremonies  of  the  occasion  had  pre- 
viously prepared  themselves  by  a  fast  of  three  days,  attended  with  frequent 
washings  and  purifications.  A  large  lodge  had  been  erected  in  the 
form  of  an  amphitheatre,  as  described  upon  a  former  page,  with  a  pole  in  its 
centre  pointing  to  the  zenith,  near  the  top  of  which  was  affixed  the  head 
of  a  buffalo.  Here  the  throng  assembled,  with  up-turned  eyes,  encircling 
it  around  in  solemn  dance,  accompanied  by  a  low  musical  chant,  as  they 
addressed  the  "  Big  Medicine"     This  strange  worship  was  maintained 


MAIN  CHAIN  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  283 


day  and  night,  without  intermission, — the  devotees  meanwhile  neither 
eating  nor  drinking.  So  exhausted  were  they,  that  at  times,  they  fell  from 
effects  of  weakness  and  fatigue. 

Some  of  their  performances  savored  much  of  Hindoo  origin.  Those 
wishing  to  be  thought  particularly  good,  attested  their  piety  by  cutting 
themselves  in  various  places, — and,  yet  others,  by  drawing  after  them  the 
heads  of  buffalo  fastened  upon  hooks  inserted  in  their  own  flesh.  As 
the  exercises  were  about  to  close,  an  offering  of  blankets,  robes,  beads, 
tobacco,  &c.,  was  made  to  the  Good  Spirit,  after  which  the  crowd  dis- 
persed. 

Their  object  appeared  to  be  a  threefold  one,  viz :  to  do  penance  for  sin,  to 
thank  the  Author  of  Good  for  past  favors,  and  to  implore  a  continuance  of 
His  beneficence  for  the  future. 

The  head  around  which  they  danced  was  evidently  not  the  object  of 
their  veneration,  but  was  placed  there  simply  to  remind  them  that,  as  the 
buffalo  constituted  their  principal  sustenance,  the  Good  Being  should  be 
more  especially  adored  on  its  account. 

A  number  of  articles  having  disappeared  from  the  Fort  rather  myste- 
riously, suspicion  was  fastened  upon  an  Indian  for  appropriating  them  in 
the  usual  way.  He  was  accordingly  charged  with  the  theft,  but  strongly 
affirmed  his  innocence,  and,  to  place  the  matter  beyond  doubt,  took  an  oath 
in  attestation  of  his  words.     The  ceremony  observed  was  as  follows  : 

Taking  his  bow,  he  selected  the  stoutest  of  his  arrows,  and,  holding  it 
in  his  right  hand,  pointed  successively  to  the  sky,  the  ground,  and  his  own 
heart;  then,  kissing  the  bow,  he  again  protested  his  innocence.  This 
being  considered  satisfactory,  he  was  honorably  acquitted  of  the  charge. 

An  Indian  is  rarely  known  either  to  violate  his  oath  or  to  swear  falsely, 
as  in  such  a  case  he  would  be  looked  upon  as  being  irrecoverably  exposed  to 
the  immediate  wrath  of  heaven  and  the  vengeance  of  man.  The  import  of 
this  ceremony  may  be  expressed  in  these  words :  "  Thou  who  dwellest  in  the 
air  and  earth,  receive  from  me  this  arrow,  and  with  this  bow  plunge  it  to 
my  heart,  if  I  do  not  speak  the  truth !"  I  leave  the  reader  to  judge  in 
regard  to  the  binding  nature  of  its  obligations. 

Sept.  25th.  Having  purchased  a  horse  for  the  purpose,  I  proceeded  to 
the  mountains  on  a  hunting  excursion,  where,  unattended  by  any  one,  I 
had  a  further  opportunity  of  testing  the  varied  sweets  of  solitude. 

My  course  lay  directly  west  some  eight  miles  to  Soublet's  creek,  a  con- 
siderable affluent  of  the  Platte,  heading  at  the  base  of  Long's  Peak, — 
thence,  continuing  up  its  right  hand  branch,  I  penetrated  into  the  moun- 
tains, on  the  second  day,  a  distance  of  several  miles  and  camped.  One  of 
the  passes  to  Grand  river,  which  is  generally  thought  much  the  nearest 
route,  leads  up  this  branch. 

The  interval  from  the  27th  to  the  30th  was  devoted  to  exploration,  and 
I  ascended  the  main  chain  of  the  mountains  left  of  Long's  Peak.  The 
usual  height  of  this  ridge  is  about  ten  thousand  feet,  upon  which  the 
stern  chambers  of  deathless  winter  are  repeatedly  exposed  to  the  eye. 

The  mountains  and  creeks  were  well  timbered, — the  former  with  pine, 
cedar,  and  balsam,  and  the  latter  with  cottonwood,  aspen,  and  box-elder. 


284  A  GEM. 

Along  the  wartercourses  and  intermingled  with  the  rude  array  of  hills 
and  rocks,  were  many  beautiful  valleys,  prairillons,  and  plateaux,  all  clothed 
with  rank  vegetation ;  and,  indeed,  the  soil  of  the  entire  section  appeared 
tolerably  fertile. 

The  prevailing  rock  of  this  region  is  feldsphatic  granite,  gneiss,  mica- 
ceous sandstone,  and  slate.  These  different  classifications  (here  strown 
about  in  confused  piles,  and  there  again  towering  in  massive  walls  of  im- 
mense altitude)  presented  an  impressively  grand  appearance,  and  united 
to  render  the  scenery  one  of  varied  sublimity  and  magnificence. 

Sept.  30th.  In  the  afternoon  I  raised  camp  and  proceeded  for  ten  or 
twelve  miles,  through  a  broad  opening  between  two  mountain  ridges, 
bearing  a  northwesterly  direction,  to  a  large  valley  skirting  a  tributary  of 
Thompson's  creek,  where,  finding  an  abundance  of  deer,  I  passed  the  in- 
terval till  my  return  to  the  Fort. 

Upon  all  the  principal  streams  were  large  quantities  of  cherries  and 
plums,  which  proved  quite  acceptable.  The  cherry  (cerasus  xirginiand)  indi- 
genous to  this  country  is  quite  similar  in  appearance  to  our  common  wild 
cherry,  though  it  is  generally  larger  and  more  pleasantly  tasted.  It  grows 
upon  a  small  bush,  and  yields  in  lavish  profusion. 

Three  different  varieties  of  plums  are  common  to  these  parts,  but  are  so 
similar  in  most  respects  to  the  wild  species  of  that  fruit  found  in  our  South- 
ern and  Western  States,  that  I  shall  not  take  the  trouble  to  describe  them. 

The  locality  of  my  encampment  presented  numerous  and  varied  attrac- 
tions. It  seemed,  indeed,  like  a  concentration  of  beautiful  lateral  valleys, 
intersected  by  meandering  watercourses,  ridged  by  lofty  ledges  of  precip- 
itous rock,  and  hemmed  in  upon  the  west  by  vast  piles  of  mountains 
climbing  beyond  the  clouds,  and  upon  the  north,  south,  and  east,  by  sharp 
lines  of  hills  that  skirted  the  prairie ;  while  occasional  openings,  like  gate- 
ways, pointed  to  the  far-spreading  domains  of  silence  and  loneliness. 

Easterly  a  wall  of  red  sandstone  and  slate  extended  for  miles  north- 
ward and  southward,  whose  counterscarp  spread  to  view  a  broad  and  gen- 
tle declivity,  decked  with  pines  and  luxuriant  herbage,  at  the  foot  of  which 
a  lake  of  several  miles  in  circumference  occupies  the  centre  of  a  basin- 
like valley,  bounded  in  every  direction  by  verdant  hills,  that  smile  upon 
the  bright  gem  embosomed  among  them. 

This  valley  is  five  or  six  miles  in  diameter,  and  possesses  a  soil  well 
adapted  to  cultivation.  It  also  affords  every  variety  of  game,  while  the 
lake  is  completely  crowded  with  geese,  brants,  ducks,  and  gulls,  to  an  ex- 
tent seldom  witnessed.  What  a  charming  retreat  for  some  one  of  the 
world-hating  literati !  He  might  here  hold  daily  converse  with  himself,  Na- 
ture, and  his  God,  far  removed  from  the  annoyance  of  man. 

Four  miles  further  north  the  traveller  is  brought  to  one  of  the  main 
branches  of  Thompson's  creek,  up  which  is  another  pass  to  the  waters  of 
Grand  river. 

This  stream  traces  its  way  through  a  fertile  valley,  two  or  three  miles 
oroad,  stretching  from  the  prairie  almost  to  the  base  of  Long's  Peak, — a  dis- 
tance of  nearly  thirty  miles.  The  valley  is  well  timbered  and  admirably 
adapted  to  stock-raising. 

The  hills  and  mountains,  enclosing  it  upon  each  side  are  also  studded 


NATURAL  FOTIFICATION.  285 

with  forests  of  pine  and  cedar,  while  the  entire  section  is  stored  with  all 
of  the  usual  varieties  of  game  known  to  contiguous  regions,  in  addition 
to  its  rich  treasures  of  fruits,  flowers  and  grasses. 

In  surveying,  from  a  commanding  summit,  the  vast  prairie  skirting  the 
muntain  range  upon  the  east,  several  small  lakes  are  discernible  at  differ- 
ent points.  The  water  of  these  is  usually  brackish,  and  their  shores, 
whitened  by  constant  saline  efflorescence,  glisten  in  the  sun's  rays,  and 
present  a  striking  contrast  with  the  surrounding  verdure. 

The  mind  is  perfectly  astounded  at  the  immense  expanse  thus  brought 
within  the  scope  of  vision.  In  a  clear  day,  objects  favorably  situated  no 
larger  than  an  ox  or  a  horse,  may  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles, 
and  the  timber  of  creeks  even  for  sixty  or  seventy  miles.  Here  the  beholder 
may  scale  beyond  the  clouds  far  heavenward,  and  gaze  upon  a  world  at 
his  feet ! 

My  hunting  was  confined  principally  to  black-tailed  deer.  These  ani- 
mals are  much  larger  than  others  of  the  genus  cervi,  and  their  flesh  is  of  a 
superior  flavor.  Their  habits  are  similar  to  those  of  the  wild  sheep, — 
leading  them  constantly  to  seek  the  regions  of  spring ;  in  the  winter,  de- 
scending to  the  valleys,  and  in  the  summer,  keeping  pace  with  the  melt- 
ing snows  upon  the  mountain-sides. 

The  extremity  of  their  vertebrae  is  shorter  than  that  of  other  species  of 
the  deer  family,  and  has  upon  it  a  small  cluster  of  coarse,  jetty  hair,  from 
which  the  animal  derives  its  name.  Their  hair  is  usually  of  a  dark  brown 
color,  coarse  and  brittle,  with  the  exception  of  a  strip  of  dirty  white  upon 
the  hams.  Their  ears  are  very  large  and  long, — quite  similar  to  those  of 
a  muie ;  in  other  respects,  however,  they  conform  to  the  peculiarities  of 
the  common  deer. 

I  was  quite  successful  with  my  rifle,  and,  by  degrees,  became  much 
attached  to  the  versatile  life  of  lordly  independence  consociate  with  the 
loneliness  of  my  situation.  My  horse,  too,  seemed  to  have  forgotten  all 
the  allurements  of  former  scenes,  and  presumed  at  no  time  to  wander 
many  yards  from  camp, — a  peculiarity  in  this  noble  animal  I  have  fre- 
quently had  occasion  to  remark.  When  thus  alone,  a  horse  will  substi- 
tute the  society  of  man  for  that  of  his  own  species,  and,  as  if  conscious  of 
surrounding  danger,  will  seldom  leave  the  vicinity  of  a  camp  for  a  long 
distance. 

Oct.  29th,  I  started  for  the  Fort.  It  had  been  my  intention  to  visit 
a  remarkable  natural  fortification  upon  one  of  the  affluents  of  Crow  creek, 
but,  ammunition  failing,  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to  abandon  it. 

This  fortress  is  said  to  be  complete  in  nearly  all  its  parts,  and  capable 
of  garrisoning  a  thousand  men,  yet  even  one  or  two  hundred  might  defend 
it  from  the  repeated  assaults  of  vast  armies,  and,  with  a  small  amount  of 
labor,  might  render  it  impregnable. 

Its  walls  are  huge  masses  of  solid  rock,  one  or  two  hundred  feet  in 
height, — apparently  strata  planted  on  end, — enclosing  an  area  of  several 
acres,  unenterable  except  at  limited  openings.  According  to  the  glowing 
descriptions  of  it  given  by  hunters,  it  must  be  an  object  well  worthy  the 
attention  of  the  curious. 


286  FALSE  ACCOUNTS. 

At  night,  I  encamped  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  upon  the  right  hand 
fork  of  Soublet's  creek,  and  the  next  day  reached  the  Fort. 

The  last  ten  or  twelve  miles  of  the  route  (leading  over  an  unbroken 
prairie)  were  travelled  during  a  heavy  fall  of  snow,  which  rendered  the  air 
so  dark  it  was  impossible  to  see  a  dozen  yards  in  advance.  But  what 
added  still  more  to  the  uncertainty  of  my  course  was  the  frequent  vari- 
ance of  the  wind,  changing  the  position  of  the  grass,  and  otherwise  in- 
creasing the  constant  liability  to  misjudge.  Notwithstanding  these  accu- 
mulated difficulties,  I  struck  the  Platte  river  only  half  a  mile  below  the  in 
tended  point. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


Newspapers. — False  reports.— Singular  grasses.— Sale  of  skins  at  Fort  Lancaster.— An 
excursion.' — An  incident. — Camp. — Huge  horns. — Leopard. — Panther.' — Slaughter 
of  eagles. — Dressing  skins. — The  hunter's  camp. — Vasques'  creek. — The  weather. — 
Return  of  comrades  to  Fort. — Sweets  of  solitude. — Exposure  in  a  snow-storm. — 
The  canon  of  S.  Fork  Platte. — A  ridge. — A  valley. — Beautiful  locality. — Choice 
site  for  a  settlement. — Flowers  in  February. — A  hunting  incident. — Fate  of  the  pre- 
mature flowers. — Adventure  with  a  sheep. — Discovered  by  Indians. — A  pleasant 
meeting. — Camp  at  Crystal  creek. — Thoughts  of  home. — Resolve  on  going.— Com- 
mence journey. — The  caravan. — "  Big  Timber." — Country  to  the  "  Crossing." — 
Big  Salt  Bottom. — Flowers. — A  stranger  of  other  lands. — Difficulty  with  Indians. 
— "  Friday." — Tedious  travelling. — No  timber. — Detention. — Country. — Pawnee 
Fork. — Mountain  and  Spanish  companies. — Spy  Buck,  the  Sawnee  war  chief. — ■ 
Pawnee  Fork. — Cure  for  a  rattlesnake's  bite.- -Further  detention. — Sketch  of  ad- 
jacent country. — Pawnee  Rocks. — En  route  with  Friday. — Musquitoes. — Observa- 
tions.— Friday  as  a  hunter. 

The  different  trading  companies  had  just  arrived  from  the  States,  bring- 
ing their  winter  stock  of  goods,  and,  what  was  still  more  acceptable  to  me, 
a  bundle  of  newspapers.  Every  item  of  intelligence  contained  in  the  lat- 
ter was  greedily  devoured,  but  what  afforded  me  no  little  amusement  was 
the  palpable  falsity  and  ignorance  their  editors  exhibited  in  relation  to  mat- 
ters of  this  country. 

For  instance,  in  giving  the  particulars  of  the  murder  of  Charvis,  a  Mexi 
can  trader,  which  occurred  in  March,  1843,  the  crime  was  represented  as 
having  been  committed  near  the  Little  Arkansas,  by  a  party  of  Texans 
on  their  way  to  join  Col.  Warfield,  who  was  then  encamped  in  that  vicinity 
with  forty  men  I  whereas,  at  that  time  Col.  Warfield  had  only  nine  men 
with  him,  and  was  at  least  three  hundred  miles  from  the  Little  Arkansas  ; 
and  further,  the  murderers  of  Charvis  were  not  Texans ! 

Subsequently,  an  article  in  another  paper  came  under  my  observation, 
referring  to  a  statement  made  to  the  National  Institute,  by  an  officer  ol*  the 


BEASTS  OF  PREY.  287 


United  States  Dragoons,  purporting  to  give  a  description  of  the  the  buffalo 
grass  common  to  the  grand  prairie.  This  grass  was  represented  as  grow- 
ing six  or  eight  inches  high,  and  as  being  abundant  n  the  mountains,  par- 
ticularly of  New  Mexico,  where  (if  I  rightly  remember)  it  was  said  it  re- 
mained green  the  entire  winter.  The  truth  of  the  matter  is,  buffalo  grass 
very  rarely  exceeds  two  and  never  attains  four  inches  in  height, — is  not 
found  in  the  mountains  at  all,  so  far  as  my  observation  has  extended,  and 
is  green  only  about  one  month  in  the  year  ! 

By  the  way,  speaking  of  grass  reminds  me  of  a  remarkable  characteristic 
in  some  varieties  indigenous  to  this  country,  and  which  will  afford  matter 
of  speculation  to  the  inquiring  mind.  The  blade,  killed  by  the/rost  of 
winter,  is  resuscitated  in  the  spring  and  gradually  becomes  green  from  the 
root  up,  without  casting  its  stubble  or  emitting  new  shoots  ! 

The  skins  obtained  during  my  hunt  found  a  ready  sale,  at  prices  ranging 
from  one  to  three  dollars  each,  according  their  to  quality  and  condition. 
These  articles  were  in  great  demand  for  the  manufacture  of  clothing  among 
the  Fort  hands,  and  are  considered  far  preferable  to  cloth. 

Nov.  10th.  I  again  returned  to  the  mountains,  heading  a  small  party 
that  insisted  upon  bearing  me  company.  Late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  se- 
cond day  we  made  camp  in  a  valley,  behind  the  first  ridge  of  hills,  upon 
the  right  hand  fork  of  Soublet's  creek. 

An  incident  en  route  afforded  some  little  amusement  at  the  time.  We 
had  left  the  Fort  without  provisions,  and  I  accordingly  proceeded  a  short 
distance  in  advance  for  the  purpose  of  killing  antelope.  Riding  slowly  on, 
I  noticed  a  badger  not  far  ahead,  and  dismounted  to  shoot  him.  But  the 
creature  becoming  alarmed  sprang  for  his  hole,  and  I  hastened  to  stop 
him.  This  I  effected  by  tightly  grasping  his  tail  as  he  was  in  the  very 
act  of  entering  his  burrow.  In  the  chase  my  rifle  had  accidentally  dis- 
charged itself,  and  here  commenced  a  struggle  between  me  and  the  badger, 
— I  to  retain  my  hold  while  I  unbelted  my  pistol  to  dispatch  him,  and  he  to 
enforce  his  liberty.  At  length  I  succeeded,  and  a  choice  supper  was  made 
from  his  carcase,  which,  to  all  intents,  was  the  fattest  thing  I  ever  saw. 

We  remained  encamped  at  the  place  above  named  for  some  six  weeks, 
and  devoted  the  interval  principally  to  hunting  sheep,  of  which  there 
were  vast  numbers  in  the  neighborhood.  In  attestation  of  the  monstrous 
horns  borne  by  some  of  them,  I  need  only  mention  the  simple  fact  of  my 
having  killed  three  sheep  while  here  whose  horns  measured  nineteen 
inches  in  circumference,  and  nearly  three  feet  in  length. 

One  of  our  party  encountered  a  strange  looking  animal  in  his  excur- 
sions, which,  from  his  description,  must  have  been  of  the  leopard  family. 
This  circumstance  is  the  more  remarkable,  as  leopards  are  rarely  found 
except  in  southern  latitudes.  However,  they  are  not  unfrequently  met 
with  in  some  parts  of  the  Cumanche  country,  and  their  skins  furnish  to 
the  natives  a  favorite  material  for  arrow-cases. 

The  only  beast  of  prey  other  than  wolves,  encountered  during  the 
entire  winter,  was  a  solitary  panther,  whose  extreme  shyness  defied  al1. 
attempts  to  approach  within  shooting  distance. 

25 


288  CAMP  OF  THE  MOUNTAIN  HUNTER. 

My  more  lengthy  rambles  brought  me  to  a  large  valley  immured  by  lat- 
eral hills,  that  had  been  occupied  a  short  time  previous  by  a  party  of  In- 
dians, for  the  purpose  of  eagle-catching.  As  proof  of  their  success,  I 
counted  the  bodies  of  thirty-six  eagles,  lying  in  piles  at  their  recent  camp. 
These  consisted  of  the  only  two  varieties  found  in  the  mountains,  viz  :  the 
American  and  bald  eagle.  The  wing-feathers  of  these  birds  command  a 
ready  sale  among  the  Indians,  by  whom  they  are  highly  prized  for  the  em- 
pluming  of  arrows. 

The  usual  mode  of  dressing  skins,  prevalent  in  this  country  among  both 
Indians  and  whites,  is  very  simple  in  its  details  and  is  easily  practised. 

It  consists  in  removing  all  the  fleshy  particles  from  the  pelt,  and  divest- 
ing it  of  a  thin  viscid  substance  upon  the  exterior,  known  as  the  "  grain  ;" 
then,  after  permitting  it  to  dry,  it  is  thoroughly  soaked  in  a  liquid  decoc- 
tion formed  from  the  brains  of  the  animal  and  water,  when  it  is  stoutly 
rubbed  with  the  hands  in  order  to  open  its  pores  and  admit  the  mollient 
properties  of  the  fluid, — this  done,  the  task  is  completed  by  alternate  rub- 
bings and  distensions  until  it  is  completely  dry  and  soft. 

In  this  manner  a  skin  may  be  dressed  in  a  very  short  time,  and,  on  ap- 
plication of  smoke,  will  not  become  hardened  from  any  subsequent  contact 
with  water. 

The  winter-camp  of  a  hunter  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  would  doubtless 
prove  an  object  of  interest  to  the  unsophisticated.  It  is  usually  located  in 
some  spot  sheltered  by  hills  or  rocks,  for  the  double  purpose  of  securing 
the  full  warmth  of  the  sun's  rays,  and  screening  it  from  the  notice  of  stroll- 
ing Indians  that  may  happen  in  its  vicinity.  Within  a  convenient  prox- 
imity to  it  stands  some  grove,  from  which  an  abundance  of  dry  fuel  is  pro- 
curable when  needed ;  and  equally  close  the  ripplings  of  a  watercourse  salute 
the  ear  with  their  music. 

His  shantee  faces  a  huge  fire,  and  is  formed  of  skins  carefully  extended 
over  an  arched  frame- work  of  slender  poles,  which  are  bent  in  the  form  of 
a  semicircle  and  kept  to  their  places  by  inserting  their  extremities  in  the 
ground.  Near  this  is  his  "  graining  block,"  planted  aslope,  for  the  ease  of 
the  operative  in  preparing  his  skins  for  the  finishing  process  in  the  art  of 
dressing ;  and  not  far  removed  is  a  stout  frame,  contrived  from  four  pieces 
of  timber,  so  tied  together  as  to  leave  a  square  of  sufficent  dimensions  for  the 
required  purpose,  in  which,  perchance,  a  skin  is  stretched  to  its  fullest  ex- 
tension, and  the  hardy  mountaineer  is  busily  engaged  in  rubbing  it  with  a 
rough  stone  or  "  scraper,"  to  fit  it  for  the  manufacture  of  clothing. 

Facing  his  shantee  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  fire,  a  pole  is  reared  upon 
crotches  five  or  six  feet  high,  across  which  reposes  a  choice  selection  of 
the  dainties  of  his  range,  to  wit :  the  "  side  ribs,"  shoulders,  heads,  and 
"rump-cuts"  of  deer  and  sheep,  or  the  "  depouille"  and  "fleeces"  of  buf- 
lalo.  The  camp-fire  finds  busy  employ  in  fitting  for  the  demands  of  appe- 
tite such  dainty  bits  of  hissing  roasts  as  en  appolas  may  grace  its  sides  ; 
while,  at  brief  intervals,  the  hearty  attendant,  enchaired  upon  the  head  of  a 
mountain  sheep,  (whose  huge  horns  furnish  legs  and  arms  for  the  conve- 
nience of  sitting,)  partakes  of  his  tempting  lunch. 

Carefully  hung  in  some  fitting  place,  are   seen  his  "  riding"  and  "  pack 


EXPOSURE  IN  A  SNOW-STORM.  289 

saddles,"  with  his  halters,  "  cavraces,"  "  larrietts,"  "  apishamores,"  and  all 
the  needful  materiel  for  camp  and  travelling  service;  and,  adjoining  him  at 
no  great  distance,  his  animals  are  allowed  to  graze,  or,  if  suitable  nourish- 
ment of  other  kind  be  lacking,  are  fed  from  the  bark  of  cottonwood  trees 
levelled  for  that  propose  ;  and,  leaning  close  at  hand,  his  rifle  awaits  his 
use,  and  by  it  his  powder-horn,  bullet-pouch,  and  tomahawk. 

Thus  conditioned  are  these  lordly  rangers  in  their  mountain  home,  nor 
own  that  any  creature  of  human  kind  can  possibly  enjoy  life  better  than 
they. 

The  events  of  each  day  varied  so  little  in  their  nature,  that  a  minute  no- 
tice of  them  would  prove  uninteresting  to  the  general  reader.  Suffice  it  to 
say,  we  remained  here  till  Jan.  1st,  1844,  and  then  removed  to  Vasques' 
creek,  some  thirty-five  miles  further  south,  where  we  encamped  in  the  val- 
ley that  formed  my  hunting  ground  of  the  previous  winter. 

The  weather  continued  cold,  and  several  falls  of  snow  had  occurred, 
covering  the  prairies  to  the  depth  of  six  or  seven  inches,  and  the  moun- 
tains  to  the  depth  of  many  feet,  though  it  rarely  remained  in  the  warm 
valleys  and  upon  the  sunny  side-hills  to  exceed  three  successive  hours. 

Our  camp,  as  a  general  thing,  was  quite  favorably  situated  in  regard 
to  temperature  ;  the  day  time  frequently  affording  a  spring-like  warmth, 
though  the  nights  were  usually  cold. 

A  peculiar  species  of  grass  among  the  hills  retained  its  verdancy  the 
entire  season,  as  did  also  another  variety  in  the  valleys.  Our  horses  and 
mules  continued  to  thrive  and  even  fatten  upon  the  nourishing  herbage 
thus  afforded  by  these  secret  chambers  of  spring. 

Soon  after  our  removal  to  Vasques5  creek,  three  Indians,  from  a 
neighboring  village,  paid  us  a  visit,  who  brought  vague  information  of  the 
approximity  of  the  Sioux,  which  so  excited  the  apprehension  of  my  camp- 
mates  relative  to  their  own  safety  and  that  of  their  animals,  that  they 
were  not  satisfied  to  remain  here  any  longer,  and  accordingly  left  for  the 
Fort.  Wishing  to  ascertain  the  true  situation  and  locality  of  such  suspi- 
cious neighbors,  I  proceeded  to  the  Indian  village  for  that  purpose.  The 
report  proved  unfounded ;  but  yet  my  extra-prudential  comrades  were 
unwilling  to  compromise  their  own  safety  by  a  further  hunt,  and  argued 
stoutly  to  persuade  me  to  accompany  them  beyond  the  reach  of  danger. 

In  the  morning,  however,  as  all  were  ready  to  resume  their  journey,  I 
mounted  my  horse,  and,  bidding  them  adieu,  with  my  lead  pack-animal 
returned  to  the  mountains,  resolved  on  a  further  test  of  the  sweets  of 
loneliness. 

Remaining  at  our  former  camp  for  a  week  or  more,  I  enjoying  full 
scope  for  my  trusty  rifle  among  the  vast  quantities  of  deer  which  showed 
themselves  in  every  direction  ;  and,  in  one  of  my  many  excursions,  pene- 
trated to  the  head  valley  of  Vasques'  creek ; — being  belated  on  my  return 
by  killing  a  very  fat  deer,  I  was  forced  to  pass  the  night  among  the  moun- 
tains, without  even  a  robe  or  a  blanket  to  screen  me  from  the  severities  of  a 
pitiless  snow-storm  that  fell  in  the  mean  time.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  I 
experienced  not  the  slightest  ill  effect  in  consequence. 


1190  EARLY  SPRING. 


On  removing  from  my  old  hunting  grounds,  I  halted  at  two  or  three  dit- 
ferent  points  still  further  south,  upon  small  affluents  of  the  Platte,  and 
in  the  course  of  twenty-five  days  encamped  a  few  miles  below  the  exit  of 
the  main  stream  from  the  mountains,  in  an  opening  made  by  the  forced 
passage  of  a  large  creek  into  the  prairie  through  a  sharp  line  of  hills. 

The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  this  camp  was  romantic,  wild,  and  beauti- 
ful. The  ridge  thus  bisected  was  about  four  hundred  feet  in  heighth,  and 
opposed  to  the  creek  vast  mural  cliffs  of  limestone  and  sandstone  that 
formed  a  gateway  nearly  three  hundred  yards  wide.  It  ranged  paral- 
lel with  the  mountains,  two  miles  or  more  removed  from  them,  presenting 
to  the  prairie  a  gentle  escarpment  ornamented  with  scattering  pines  and 
clothed  at  intervals  with  rank  grasses  of  the  preceding  year's  growth. 

On  ascending  to  its  summit  you  stand  at  the  verge  of  a  steep  precipice, 
two  hundred  or  more  feet  in  descent, — as  if  the  earth,  opened  by  internal 
convulsions,  had  forced  the  right  valve  of  its  fissure  to  an  unnatural  posi- 
tion, and  thas  formed  the  elevation  beneath  you. 

This  ridge  extends  for  many  miles,  and  overlooks  a  beautiful  valley  of 
remarkable  fertility,  fifteen  miles  in  length  by  three  in  breadth,  and  inter- 
sected by  numerous  streams,  more  or  -less  timbered,  that  find  their  way 
from  the  mountain  side.  The  valley  is  divided  by  a  continuous  ridge  that 
runs  parallel  with  its  length,  which  is  much  the  same  in  character  with, 
though  more  diminutive  in  size  than  the  one  previously  described. 

The  huge  masses  of  red  granitic  sandstone  that  tower  to  a  surprising 
altitude,  isolated  and  in  almost  every  conceivable  form  and  shape,  add 
vastly  to  the  wildness  of  the  place.  The  rock  is  quite  friable  and  con- 
stantly yielding  to  the  action  of  the  weather,  while  the  soil  of  the  valley  is  of 
a  ruddy  color  and  gravelly  nature  as  will  be  readily  inferred  from  the  above 
fact. 

This  superfice  is  fertilized,  not  only  from  the  debris  of  its  rocks,  but 
by  the  immense  beds  of  gi/psum  contained  in  its  hill- sides,  which  are  in- 
cessantly decomposing  to  enhance  the  general  fecundity.  Vegetation,  of 
course,  must  attain  a  rank  growth  in  such  a  soil,  and,  in  favored  spots,  it 
remains  green  the  entire  year. 

All  the  different  varieties  of  wild  fruits  and  game  indigenous  to  the  moun- 
tains are  found  here  in  great  abundance.  Among  the  timber  of  the  creek 
bottom,  I  noticed  hazel-bushes,  old  acquaintances  of  the  States,  which 
looked  like  messengers  from  a  far  off  country,  and  reminded  me  of  other 
scenes. 

There  are  few  localities  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mountains  better  situated 
for  a  small  settlement,  or  possessed  of  greater  agricultural  advantages  than 
this. 

The  prairie  at  the  base  of  the  first  range  of  hills  is  quite  saline  in  its 
character ;  and  several  small  lakes  of  brackish  water,  and  well  stocked 
with  almost  numberless  water-fowl,  are  seen  at  different  points,  the  incrus- 
tations upon  whose  shores  assume  a  snowy  whiteness.  Notwithstanding 
this,  it  possesses  a  good  soil  and  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
stock. 

Feb.  26lh.  The  fresh  grass  upon  the  hill-sides  has  assumed  a  thrifty 
appearance.     Insects  have  begun  to  quit  their  winter  retreats,  and,  com- 


ADVENTURE  WITH  A  SHEEP.  291 

mingling  their  shrill  notes  with  the  music  of  birds,  hail  the  approaching 
spring.  *  I  was  delighted  to  find  in  my  rambles  a  cluster  of  wild-flowers 
in  full  bloom,  shedding  their  fragrance  to  the  breeze  from  a  sweet,  sunny 
spot  among  the  hills,  and  I  sat  for  a  time  to  admire  its  new-born  loveli- 
ness. 

One  of  my  horses,  having  been  for  some  time  wasting  under  the  effects 
of  a  disease  peculiar  to  those  animals,  died  this  afternoon, — a  loss  which 
subjects  me  to  no  little  inconvenience.  It  was  a  noble  beast,  and  cost  me 
sixty  dollars  only  four  months  since. 

Feb.  28lh.  A  light  snow  which  fell  yesterday  night  prevented  me  from 
leaving  camp,  but  having  shouldered  my  rifle  early  this  morning,  I  ranged 
along  the  valley.  The  snow  had  entirely  disappeared.  Three  buffalo 
bulls,  alarmed  at  my  approach,  rushed  down  a  steep  hill-side,  quartering 
towards  me,  at  the  height  of  their  speed.  Running  to  intercept  them,  I 
shot  as  they  passed,  prostrating  one  at  the  instant.  So  great  was  the  im- 
petuosity of  his  headway,  the  carcase  was  thrown  to  the  very  base  of  the 
descent,  a  distance  of  about  three  hundred  yards  ! 

The  interest  awakened  by  the  picture  of  loveliness  that  greeted  me  two 
days  previous,  led  again  to  the  sweet  spot  among  the  rough  hill-sides, — but, 
how  changed !  The  cruel  frost  had  done  his  death- work — the  "  flowers 
had  withered  and  the  beauty  thereof  had  fallen  away."  A  tear  to  their 
memory,  despite  my  efforts  to  restrain  it,  stole  its  way  to  the  ground. 
Such  was  the  fate  of  the  first  flower  of  spring !  What  a  prolific  theme 
for  a  melancholy  fancy  to  brood  upon,  and,  in  its  musings,  catch  the  inspi- 
rations of  poesy ! 

March  4//i.  The  dull  monotony  of  four  days  past  has  afforded  nothing 
worthy  of  note.  Spring  is  making  rapid  advances.  To-day,  however,  an 
incident  occurred,  which,  with  suitable  forethought,  might  have  been  turned 
to  good  account.  Soon  after  leaving  camp  I  encountered  a  band  of  sheep, 
and,  despairing  of  a  near  approach,  shot  one  of  its  number  at  a  distance 
of  nearly  three  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  The  animal  immediately  fell, 
having  been  stunned  by  a  neck  wound,  (" creased")  but  recovered  as  I 
reached  it, barely  affording  me  time  to  grasp  one  of  its  legs. 

Here  commenced  a  struggle, — the  sheep  to  get  free,  and  I  to  retain  my 
hold.  In  the  energy  of  its  efforts  I  was  dragged  over  the  rocks  for  some 
two  hundred  yards,  when,  having  caught  its  fore-leg,  I  succeeded  in 
throwing  it,  and  unthinkingly  despatched  it  with  my  butcher-kni  t*e.  I  might 
have  preserved  it  alive,  as  a  rare  and  valuable  addition  to  some  zoological 
collection.  My  not  having  done  so,  I  regretted  the  more,  as  it  was  a 
female  and  would  have  soon  produced  another  of  its  species. 

March  llh.  Having  discovered  a  large  band  of  deer  in  the  prairie 
towards  the  Platte,  early  this  morning  I  started  to  approach  them.  Beino- 
within  the  required  distance.  I  was  preparing  to  shoot,  when,  on  glancino- 
to  the  left,  a  party  of  horsemen  met  my  view,  advancing  at  full  gallop. 
Their  bare  heads  and  fluttering  robes  at  once  announced  them  Indians. 

Here  was  a  dilemma  !  My  first  thought  was  to  retire  to  the  creek  and 
there  await  them,  under  coyer  of  the  trees, — but  this  would  convey  an  im 

35* 


292  REMARKS. 

pression  of  cowardice,  a  thing  which  uniformly  receives  ill  treatment  at 
the  hands  of  Indians,  while  bravey  commands  their  respect.  I  therefore 
resolved  to  stand  my  ground  and  fight  it  out,  if  necessary,  let  the  conse- 
quences be  what  they  would.  So,  after  examining  the  condition  of  my 
firearms  and  making  the  suitable  arrangements  for  an  expected  rencoun- 
ter, I  calmly  awaited  their  approach.  My  design  was  to  shoot  the  fore- 
most when  within  proper  distance,  (first  forbidding  their  advance,)  then, 
having  discharged  my  pistols  at  the  two  next,  if  not  previously  killed,  to 
close  in  with  the  remainder,  butcher-knife  in  hand.  From  hostile  savages  I 
expected  no  quarter,  and  was  therefore  determined  to  sell  my  life  as  dearly 
as  possible.  * 

A  nearer  approach,  however,  changed  my  gloomy  apprehensions  into  a 
transport  of  pleasure,  as  I  recognized  two  old  hunters  from  Fort  Lancaster 
at  their  head, — the  first  of  human  beings,  white  or  Indian,  that  I  had  seen 
for  two  months.  Their  gratification  scarcely  surpassed  my  own,  they  having 
long  since  supposed  me  murdered  by  prowling  savages. 

Having  camped  the  day  previous  about  three  miles  distant  with  the  par- 
ty accompanying  them,  they  were  now  in  quest  of  buffalo.  However,  as 
it  threatened  to  be  unpleasant  weather,  an  invitation  to  my  camp  was 
gladly  accepted,  where  the  choice  stores  my  larder  afforded,  were  dis- 
cussed with  epicurean  gusto. 

Yielding  to  their  persuasions,  in  the  afternoon  I  bid  adieu  to  my  lovely 
retreat  and  proceeded  with  them  to  their  encampment  upon  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Platte,  near  the  mouth  of  Crystal  creek. 

Here  a  small  party  of  whites  from  the  Fort  were  occupied  in  building  a 
boat,  with  which  to  descend  the  river.  A  Mexican  woman,  from  Taos,  the 
wife  of  an  engage,  honored  the  scene  with  her  presence,  as  did  also  three 
6quaws  and  two  Indians.  Commodious  shantees  had  been  erected  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  men,  which,  together  with  a  huge  fire  and  a  propor- 
tionate pile  of  meat,  imparted  an  air  of  comfort  to  everything. 

Remaining  here  for  a  week  or  two,  I  then  proceeded  to  the  Fort,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  forty  miles.  The  different  trading  companies  were  already 
en  route  for  the  States,  having  left  several  days  previous.  The  thoughts  of 
other  lands,  and  more  congenial  associations,  were  now  revived  in  all  their 
vividness.  They  filled  my  mind  by  day,  and  crowded  my  dreams  by  night. 
Eight  years  had  already  intervened  since  the  view  of  a  distant  home  and 
much-loved  childhood  scenes  had  last  greeted  me,  nearly  three  of  which 
had  been  passed  amid  the  dangers  and  vicissitudes  of  prairie  and  mountain 
life.  Yet,  I  was  at  a  loss  to  decide  what  to  do.  The  object  of  my  excur- 
sion had  not  been  satisfactorily  accomplished.  I  wished  to  visit  the  Pacific 
and  familiarize  myself  more  perfectly  with  several  parts  of  Oregon  ana 
California  ;  this  would  yet  require  a  year,  or  even  more. 

However,  the  subject  now  uppermost  in  my  thoughts  influenced  the  de- 
cision, and,  bidding  a  present  adieu  to  other  plans,  I  made  prompt  arrange- 
ments for  returning  to  the  States.  These  were  soon  completed,  and  on  the 
17th  of  March  I  commenced  my  journey. 

With  the  intermediate  country  from  the  Platte  to  Bent's  Fort  on  the  Ar- 
Kansas  the  reader  is  already  familiar ;  and,  as  few  incidents  worthy  of  note 
occurred  between  these  two  points,  I  shall  content  myself  with  a  mer© 


A  RARE  CUSTOMER.  293 

passing  notice  and  hasten  with  becoming  brevity  to  a  conclusion  of  the 
task  in  hand. 

The  fourth  day  succeeding  my  departure  I  overtook  a  division  of  the 
caravan  of  mountain  traders,  numbering  ten  men  and  three  waggons,  with 
which  I  proceeded  to  the  Big  Timber  of  the  Arkansas,  distant  about  two 
hundred  miles  southeast  from  Fort  Lancaster. 

The  country  at  this  place,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  river,  is  fertile 
and  well  timbered,  but  the  prairies  are  slightly  undulating,  arid,  and  gener- 
ally unproductive.  The  prevailing  rock  is  exhibited  in  abrupt  cliffs  and 
bold  escarpments  from  the  hill-sides  and  banks  of  watercourses,  and  con- 
sists of  various  conglomerates,  with  limestone  and  sandstone ;  the  latter  being 
very  fine-grained  and  admirably  suited  to  the  preparing  of  edgetools.  I 
noticed  indications  of  coal  in  some  parts,  and  the  usual  quantity  of  saline 
efflorescences,  particularly  upon  the  south  side  of  the  river. 

On  the  10th  of  April,  the  caravan  being  augmented  by  an  accession  of 
three  other  waggons  and  several  men,  we  again  resumed  our  journey,  and, 
on  the  28th  inst,  struck  the  Santa  Fe  trail  near  the  Crossing  of  the  Arkan- 
sas, one  hundred  and  ten  miles  below  the  Big  Timber. 

The  geological  character  of  the  prairie  and  the  river  bottoms  is  much 
the  same  as  that  previously  described,  with  the  exception  of  a  general  scar- 
city of  rock ;  though  to  the  southward  it  is  very  sterile  in  appearance,  and 
a  continuous  chain  of  hills,  that  in  some  places  are  mere  knobs  of  naked 
sand  entirely  destitute  of  every  semblance  of  vegetation,  plainly  points  out 
the  cheerless  llanos  of  the  Great  American  Desert. 

Below  the  Big  Timber  the  rank  growths  of  absinthe,  which  have  been 
heretofore  so  prevalent,  almost  entirely  disappear. 

The  river  gradually  expands  to  the  width  of  nearly  two  miles,  forming 
several  small  islands,  and  scatters  its  waters  in  numerous  channels,  over 
beds  of  quicksand,  so  shallow  and  variable  as  to  preclude  the  possibility 
of  successful  navigation. 

Timber  becomes  very  scarce, — so  much  so,  that  in  many  places  it  is 
difficult  to  obtain  a  sufficiency  even  for  the  camp-fires  of  travellers.  The 
bottoms  are  usually  broad  and  fertile,  but  possess  a  highly  saline  cha- 
racter. 

One  of  the  above,  known  as  the  Big  Salt  Bottom,  is  some  forty  miles 
in  length  and  four  or  five  miles  broad.  It  contains  frequent  streams  and 
pools  of  brackish  water,  with  spots  in  which  vegetation  entirely  gives 
place  to  thick  coatings  of  mineral  salts. 

Among  the  prairie  hills  I  occasionally  noticed  extensive  spreads  com- 
pletely covered  with  a  singular  species  of  blue  flower  in  full  bloom, 
which  imparted  to  the  otherwise  forbidding  prospect  an  air  of  loveliness 
and  beauty ;  but,  in  glancing  over  the  far-reaching  landscape,  I  looked  in 
vain  for  the  floral  attractions  peculiar  to  mountain  regions. 

A  few  miles  above  the  Crossing,  an  incident  occurred  which  renewedly 
aroused  my  recollection  of  other  lands.  This  was  the  appearance  of  a 
fine-looking  coon,  the  first  I  bad  seen  since  leaving  the  States.  These 
animals  are  strangers  to  the  mountains,  and  were  never  before  known  to 
penetrate  thus  far  westward. 


294  MEETING  OF  COMPANIES. 

In  passing  a  village  of  Arapahos,  near  the  Salt  Bottom,  we  had  con- 
siderable difficulty  with  them  on  account  of  ten  or  fifteen  domesticated 
buffalo  connected  with  the  caravan.  The  Indians  were  highly  exaspera- 
ted, and  accused  the  whites  of  stealing  their  buffalo.  They  even  armed 
themselves  to  fight  us,  and  were  deterred  from  their  purpose  only  by  a  large 
present  of  tobacco,  but  still  threatened  vengeance  in  case  of  a  renewal  of 
the  offence. 

Soon  after  this  we  were  joined  by  a  young  Arapaho  Indian,  named  Fri- 
day, who  was  desirous  of  visiting  the  States.  He  had  formerly  lived  in 
St.  Louis,  where  he  had  acquired  a  knowledge  of  the  English  language, 
and  still  maintains  a  reputation  for  honesty,  intelligence,  and  sobriety. 
Hereafter  I  will  have  occasion  to  speak  of  him  more  particularly,  in  con- 
nection with  his  previous  history. 

Resuming  our  course,  we  bore  leftward  from  the  river  and  struck  into 
the  high  prairie.  Late  rains  had  rendered  the  ground  muddy,  and  travel- 
ling consequently  became  slow  and  tedious. 

The  weather  continued  wet  and  disagreeable,  in  addition  to  which  the 
unprecedented  size  and  velocity  of  the  streams  caused  us  frequent  deten- 
tion. 

The  trail,  for  four  or  five  days,  led  over  a  number  of  timberless  water- 
courses, known  as  "  the  coon  creeks,"  which  subjected  us  to  great  incon- 
venience in  the  item  of  fuel,  as  neither  tree  nor  stick  could  be  procured 
for  cooking  purposes,  and  bois  de  bache,  the  substitue  of  buffalo  countries, 
had  become  so  thoroughly  saturated  with  water  it  was  almost  impossible  to 
ignite  it. 

On  the  23d  of  April,  having  arrived  at  Pawnee  Fork,  we  were  obliged 
to  remain  some  four  weeks  before  a  ford  could  be  effected, — but  the  dense 
bands  of  buffalo  that  thronged  the  vicinity  abated  somewhat  the  annoyance 
of  delay. 

The  country,  between  the  "Crossing"  and  Pawnee  Fork,  varies  but 
little  in  its  general  character  from  that  previously  described,  and  exhibits  a 
favorable  contrast  to  the  forbidding  wastes  of  naked  sand  upon  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  Arkansas.  Although  not  absolutely  sterile,  it  is  not  rich, 
and  suffers  more  from  lack  of  moisture  than  any  actual  defect  of  soil. 
Its  entire  destitution  of  timber  will  prevent  it  from  ever  becoming  inhab- 
ited to  any  great  extent. 

Rock  of  all  kinds  is  very  scarce,  and  almost  the  only  specimens  preva- 
lent are  found  in  the  pebbles  and  diminutive  fragments  which  lie  scattered 
over  the  prairie. 

During  our  stay  we  were  joined  by  Messrs.  Bent  and  St.  Vrain,  and 
three  or  four  Spanish  companies,  which  increased  our  caravan  to  fifty  or 
more  waggons  and  nearly  one  hundred  men. 

With  the  former  of  the  companies  was  a  Chyenne  chief,  (Slim  Face,)  on 
his  way  to  Washington  to  solicit  the  U.  S.  Government  to  adopt  some  effect- 
ual means  for  the  suppression  of  the  sale  of  ardent  spirits  among  his 
people.     (A  very  laudablo  object,  indeed.) 


PAWNEE  ROCKS.  295 


Three  or  four  Mexican  ladies  and  several  children  (being  the  family  of 
one  of  the  Spanish  traders,  from  Chihuahua)  were  also  included  with  the 
new  accession  ;  but  the  most  noted  personage  among  the  whole  was  Old 
Spy  Buck,  the  famous  Shawnee  war-chief,  who  had  distinguished  himself 
as  the  leader  of  a  small  band  of  his  countrymen  in  connection  with  Kirker 
and  the  Americans  employed  by  the  governments  of  Santa  Fe  and  Chihu- 
ahua to  fight  the  Apache  and  Navijo  Indians. 

The  old  chieftain  was  on  his  return  home,  venerable  in  age  and  covered 
with  scars,  which  gave  indubitable  evidence  of  the  place  he  had  occupied  in 
the  hour  of  danger.  The  history  of  his  exploits  would  fill  a  volume  far 
more  interesting  in  its  details  than  those  of  the  proudest  heroes  of  fiction. 

Pawnee  Fork  afforded  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  cat-fish,  which  were 
caught  in  great  numbers  by  our  party.  I  know  of  no  other  stream  near, 
upon  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  mountains,  where  fish  are  found  in  any  quan- 
tity or  size  worth  naming. 

This  creek  heads  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  "Divide,"  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Smoky  Hill  branch  of  the  Kansas,  and  by  pursuing  a  south- 
ern course  for  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  finds  its  discharge  in  the 
Arkansas.  It  is  heavily  timbered,  and  is  known  among  the  Indians  as  Otter 
creek,  on  account  of  the  great  number  of  those  animals  found  upon  it. 
The  valley  which  skirts  it  is  several  miles  broad,  and  very  fertile,  present- 
ing a  large  extent  of  excellent  land,  well  adapted  to  cultivation. 

While  here,  I  became  acquainted  with  the  salutary  properties  of  gun- 
powder in  an  interesting  case.  My  horse,  having  been  bitten  by  a  rattle- 
snake, was  cured  by  the  following  simple  process :  The  wound  being 
slightly  creased  immediately  above  and  below,  a  small  portion  of  powder 
was  burnt  upon  it  for  four  or  five  times  in  succession,  which  completely 
destroyed  the  effects  of  the  poison.  I  am  informed  by  those  who  have 
repeatedly  tried  this  remedy,  that  it  has  never  been  known  to  fail  when 
promptly  applied. 

On  the  21st  of  May,  we  finally  effected  a  crossing,  and  by  the  24th  haa 
reached  Walnut  creek,  twenty  miles  distant,  where  high  water  again  op- 
posed a  present  barrier  to  further  progress.  The  bottoms  were  so  com- 
pletely flooded  that  we  were  forced  to  occupy  an  adjoining  eminence  for  a 
camp. 

This  stream  is  heavily  timbered,  and  derives  its  name  from  the  abun- 
dance of  black  walnut  found  along  its  banks.  Its  valley  is  very  similar  to 
that  of  Pawnee  Fork  as  regards  size  and  fertility,  while  the  country  be- 
tween the  two  is  evidently  possessed  of  a  good  soil. 

About  twelve  miles  below  Walnut  creek,  near  the  trail,  is  a  huge  and 
isolated  mass  of  coarse  sandstone,  known  as  the  Pawnee  Rocks.  This  is 
a  noted  landmark,  and,  like  Independence  Rock  elsewhere  spoken  of,  is 
covered  with  the  names  of  passers  by,  en  route  to  and  from  the  mountains 
and  Mexican  States. 

Here  was  a  confused  medley  of  cognomens, — English,  French,  Spanish, 
German,  Irish,  and  Scotch, — all  entered  upon  the  register  of  fancied  immor- 
tality; and  here,  too,  as  I  glanced  over  the  strange  catalogue,  a  number  of  our 


296  "  FRIDAY." 


company  were  busily  engaged  in  carving  their  own ;  but  remembering  a 
former  resolution,  I  declined  the  honor  of  imitating  their  example. 

June  16ih.  More  than  three  weeks  have  intervened  since  our  arrival  at 
Walnut  creek,  and  still  there  is  no  present  possibility  of  proceeding  with 
the  waggons.  This  continued  delay  is  becoming  extremely  irksome,  not- 
withstanding the  countless  thousands  of  buffalo  which  afford  us  an  inex- 
haustible feast  of  "  fat  things."  Time  is  precious  and  I  must  go  on  ;  and 
there  are  several  who  would  do  likewise,  but  hesilate, — while  frightful  vis- 
ions of  Pawnees  and  Osages  disturb  their  midnight  dreams  and  fluster 
their  waking  thoughts.  Friday,  the  Arapaho,  asks  to  accompany  me  ; — 
our  arrangements  are  completed,  and  to-morrow  we  leave. 

June  Ylth.  About  noon,  bidding  adieu  to  vexatious  hindrances,  we 
started,  and,  after  a  short  ride,  forded  the  Arkansas  above  the  mouth  of  Wal- 
nut creek, — thence,  following  the  course  of  that  river  upon  its  opposite 
bank,  we  halted  for  the  night  in  a  broad  sandy  bottom,  four  or  five  miles  be- 
low. 

The  musquetoes  here  proved  so  troublesome  to  ourselves  and  animals, 
we  were  compelled  to  defend  the  former  by  means  of  a  dense  smoke  and  pro- 
tect the  latter  with  a  close  envelope  of  robes.  The  next  morning  we  re- 
crossed  the  Arkansas,  and,  striking  the  waggon  road  soon  after  near  Plum 
Butte,  continued  our  way  to  Cow  creek. 

A  few  miles  above  this  point  the  regular  trail  leaves  the  Arkansas  upon 
the  right,  and,  following  a  northwesterly  course  for  about  three  hundred  and 
fifty  miles,  strfkes  the  States  at  Independence,  Mo. 

The  interval  between  Walnut  and  Cow  creeks  is  generally  sandy  and 
somewhat  tumulous,  but  is  different  in  many  respects  from  any  other  sec- 
tion previously  noticed.  The  hills,  adjacent  to  the  river  and  near  the 
trail,  are  coniform  and  not  unfrequently  naked  piles  of  dry  sand,  while  the 
hollows  and  depressions  among  them  afford  a  humid  soil,  coated  with  rank 
vegetation 

Cow  creek  is  a  small  stream  with  very  steep,  clayey  banks,  and  is 
sparsely  timbered.  Its  bottom  is  about  four  miles  broad  and  of  variable 
fertility, — doubtless  susceptible  of  cultivation. 

On  resuming  our  course  we  leave  the  buffalo  region,  a  transition  for  which 
we  are  now  fully  prepared.  Aware  that  this  must  shortly  occur,  I  had  sent 
Friday  in  advance  with  my  rifle,  who  very  soon  prostrated  three  fine  bulls, 
affording  us  a  stock  of  most  excellent  beef  from  which  to  make  our  selec- 
tions. 

Few  Indians  or  whites  can  compete  with  Friday  as  a  buffalo-hunter, 
either  in  the  use  of  the  bow  or  rifle.  I  have  seen  him  kill  five  of  these 
animals  at  a  single  chase,  and  am  informed  that  he  has  not  unfrequently 
exceeded  that  number.  Conscious  skill,  in  this  respect,  is  the  occasion 
of  some  little  pride  to  its  possessor. 

But  it  is  not  in  hunting  exploits  alone  that  he  excels ;  his  deeds  of  war 
equally  command  the  respect  and  admiration  of  his  tribe,  among  whom  he 
is  known  as  the  "  Arapaho  American."  A  brief  sketch  of  his  early  life 
I  have  reserved  for  the  succeeding  chapter,  which  the  reader  may  rely  upon 
a3  strictly  true. 


297 


CHAPTER   XXXIV. 

The  Arapaho  American,  a  sketch  of  real  life. — Tenets  of  the  mountain  Indians  in 
reference  to  a  future  state  of  rewards  and  punishments. — The  "  water  bull."— 
Country  between  Cow  creek  and  Council  Grove.  Inviting  locality  for  settle- 
ment.— Sudden  rise  of  water. — Separate  routes. — Dangerous  travelling.— Osage 
village. —Osages,  and  all  about  them. — Arrival  at  Van  Buren,  Arkansas. — Con- 
cluding remarks. 

Early  in  the  year  1828,  ere  peace  had  been  established  between  the 
whites  and  the  Arapahos,  a  large  village  of  that  tribe  made  its  temporary- 
encampment  upon  the  waters  of  the  Cimarone,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Santa  Fe  trail. 

An  opportunity  so  favorable  for  amusement  was  not  suffered  long  to  pass 
unimproved  by  the  younger  ones,  and  group  after  group  of  merry  boys 
and  girls  were  soon  bescattered  over  the  adjoining  prairie,  engaged  in  their 
innocent  sports, — for  of  play  all  children  possess  an  intuitive  fondness,  be 
they  white,  red,  or  black. 

Each  successive  day  yielded  its  tribute  to  the  routine  of  pleasure,  as,  true 
to  the  teachings  of  childish  philosophy,  they  seized  the  enjoyments  of  the 
present,  nor  thought  or  cared  for  the  future, — and  thus  far,  it  may  be  said, 
some  men  are  but  overgrown  boys. 

Impelled  by  the  restless  spirit  of  their  years,  on  an  occasion,  several 
frolicksome  lads  had  wandered  to  an  unusual  distance  from  camp,  and 
passed  most  of  the  day  in  a  fruitless  effort  to  catch  prairie-dogs. 

At  length,  wearied  with  a  bootless  task,  they  set  their  faces  homeward. 
Scarcely  had  they  started,  however,  when  the  village  made  its  appear- 
ance, bearing  directly  towards  them;  whereupon  the  happy  band,  seat- 
ing themselves  at  the  point  of  an  eminence,  awaited  its  approach,  and 
soon  mingled  with  their  relatives,  one  after  another,  as  they  were  dis- 
closed by  the  passing  throng. 

In  a  short  time  a  little  boy,  some  six  years  old,  alone  remained — watch- 
ing with  eager  impatience  the  appearance  of  his  father's  lodge ;  but  still 
it  came  not.  The  crowd  had  passed  and  a  solitary  old  man  brought  up 
the  rear.  On  seeing  the  lone  stripling,  he  enquired  the  cause  of  his 
delay. 

"  My  parents  come  not,  and  I  await  them,"  said  the  little  fellow. 

"Haste  you,"  replied  the  man  ;  "  they  have  gone  towards  the  sun-rising 
for  a  day's  travel.     Run  quick,  that  you  may  join  them." 

The  lad  promptly  followed  the  old  man's  direction,  and  set  off  in  pur- 
suit. His  route  led  over  a  long  reach  of  dry  sand-prairie,  eastward  of 
the  Cimarone,  which  was  entirely  destitute  of  water,  and  soon  after  cross- 
ing the  creek  a  heavy  wind  obscured  the  trail,  in  addition  to  which  the 
thick  clouds  of  dust,  with  fast-closing  night  and  insufferable  thirst,  com- 
pelled him  to  turn  again  to  the  Cimarone. 


298  THE  ARAPAHO  AMERICAN. 

Another  attempt  to  reach  the  village  the  day  following  was  unsuccess- 
ful, and  each  repeated  effort  proved  equally  unavailing. 

At  length,  weakened  by  hunger  and  suffering,  he  laid  himself  down  to 
die,  in  a  grass  plat  by  the  creek  side. 

Seven  days  of  continued  fasting  which  followed,  left  him  so  debilitated 
he  could  scarcely  stand.  His  mind  began  to  wander ;  he  thought  himself  a 
dweller  of  the  Spirit  Land  and  a  ranger  of  the  hunting  ground  of  happy 
souls. 

His  bewildered  vision  pictured  the  joyous  chase,  bounding  along  the 
celestial  plains.  Strange  voices  greeted  his  ear,  and  sounds  broke  upon 
the  stillness  of  solitude.  He  gazes  around,  and  sights  still  stranger  close 
in  upon  him, — not  visionary,  but  real. 

"  It  must  be  so,"  said  he.  "  Here  are  the  horses  for  me  to  ride,  and 
there -is  the  game  for  me  to  chase.  But,  what  singular  buffalo  !  How 
long  their  horns,  and  how  white  ! — What  strange  colors,  too  ! — white,  red, 
black,  and  mixed !  And,  who  are  they  ? — Ah  !  the  pale-faces  !  They  ap- 
proach !  What  do  they  here  ? — I  cannot  escape  them  !"  Thereupon  he 
found  himself  in  the  firm  grasp  of  two  white  men,  who  cut  short  his  solilo- 
quy by  bearing  him  to  their  camp. 

His  fancy,  though  illusive  in  its  inception,  had  ended  in  sober  reality. 
The  strange  voices  greeting  his  ear  were  those  of  his  captors,  who  had 
just  encamped  near  him ;  the  horses  and  singular  buffalo  exciting  his  won- 
der, were  the  horses  and  cattle  of  a  caravan  of  Santa  Fe  traders  ;  and  the 
pale-faces  were  two  of  the  company,  by  the  names  of  Fitzpatrick  and  Soub- 
let,  by  whom  he  was  taken. 

They  were  on  their  return  to  the  States,  and,  noticing  a  strange  object  in 
the  vicinity  of  camp  soon  after  their  noon  halt,  approached  to  learn  its 
character  and  found  the  little  sufferer  as  above  related. 

He  had  never  before  seen  the  whites,  and,  knowing  them  only  from  the 
representations  of  his  people,  they  were  associated  in  his  boyish  fancy  with 
all  that  was  hateful  and  wicked.  But,  instead  of  the  cruel  death  he  had 
supposed  would  be  his  certain  allotment  at  their  hands,  they  administered  to 
his  wants  and  plied  him  with  kindnesses.  Everything  about  him  was  so 
strange,  he  could  scarcely  be  convinced  it  was  not  a  picture  of  the  imagina- 
tion— that  he  was  not  yet  dreaming  of  the  happy  country,  or  actually  initi- 
ated into  its  delightful  mysteries. 

From  the  date  of  this  event  he  was  ushered  into  a  new  state  of  exist- 
ence, and  soon  acquired  the  language  and  habits  of  the  whites.  Taken  to 
St.  Louis,  he  remained  there  for  some  five  years,  and  received  a  partial  ed- 
ucation during  the  interval.  So  complete  was  the  transformation,  he  even 
forgot  the  name  and  language  of  his  nation,  and  became  an  adept  in  the 
customs  of  civilized  life. 

About  the  year  1832,  Capt.  Grant  succeeded  in  effecting  a  treaty  with 
the  Arapahos,  and  pending  its  negotiation  mention  was  made  of  a  boy,  said 
to  have  been  lost  upon  the  Cimarone  several  years  previous,  who  was  sup- 
posed to  have  fallen  into  the  hands  of  a  trading  company,  and  for  whose 
ransom  a  large  number  of  horses  was  offered. 

It  is  needless  to  say  our  hero  was  the  subject  of  this  request,  and,  in  or- 
der to  conciliate  their  good  will  and  place  the  new-formed  treaty  upon  a 


RELIGIOUS  TENETS  OF  MOUNTAIN  TRIBES.  29'J 

permanent  basis,  word  was  forwarded  to  his  benefactor,  Fitzpatrick,  inform- 
ing him  of  the  circumstance. 

Friday,  for  this  was  the  name  by  which  the  Indian  youth  had  now  be- 
come known,  on  hearing  the  proposal  of  his  relatives,  steadily  refused  com- 
pliance, declaring  the  whites  to  be  his  only  relatives,  and  that  with  them  he 
would  live  and  die. 

Subsequently,  however,  he  was  persuaded  to  accompany  his  guardian  to 
the  mountains,  expecting  shortly  to  revisit  the  States.  Here  his  father  and 
mother  came  forward  to  claim  him  as  their  long-lost  son. 

But  the  lapse  of  seven  years  had  served  to  efface  all  the  recollections  of 
early  childhood.  Parents  and  friends  were  alike  strangers  to  him ;  he  re- 
fused to  own  them,  and  recoiled  from  their  advances.  Their  language 
grated  upon  his  ear  in  a  confused  jargon  of  unknown  sounds.  His  mother 
wept  from  mingled  emotions  of  grief  and  joy,  while  his  father  and  brothers 
pressed  their  mouths  in  unfeigned  astonishment.  Still  his  obstinacy  was 
unyielding,  and  the  united  entreaties  of  relatives  failed  to  exert  upon  him 
the  least  influence. 

At  length,  the  arguments  and  advice  of  the  fur  traders  induced  him  to 
visit  the  Arapahos  village,  where  he  was  received  with  distinguished  honor 
by  his  relatives  and  nation.  Every  one  hastened  to  pay  him  respect, — 
while  feast  succeeded  feast,  and  council  succeeded  council,  to  welcome  his 
return,  and  the  little  boy,  who,  seven  years  before — lost  amid  the  cheerless 
sands  of  the  American  Desert,  and  weakened  by  hunger  and  suffering — 
had  lain  down  to  die  upon  the  bank  of  the  Cimarone,  now  found  himself 
suddenly  made  famous  as  the  "  Little  Chief  "  of  his  tribe, — the  "  Arapaho 
American." 

Honor,  whose  potent  spell  exerts  its  influence  upon  older  heads  and 
more  enlightened  minds,  gradually  reconciled  him  to  the  rude  mode  of  life 
his  destiny  seemed  to  mark  out,  and  he  again  became  identified  with  the 
associations  of  former  years. 

Still,  however,  he  retains  an  undiminished  attachment  to  the  whites,  and 
continues  to  merit  and  command  their  esteem.  His  character,  for  honesty, 
integrity,  and  sobriety,  has  as  yet  stood  unimpeached.  A  chief  by  birth, 
he  might  assert  a  more  prominent  station  among  his  people  ;  but  he  declines 
it,  with  the  noble  resolve : — "  Until  by  my  own  achievements  I  have  earned 
that  honor,  I  shall  never  consent  to  become  a  chief;  for  certainly,  then  my 
people  will  listen  to  me!" 

The  hero  of  the  above  sketch  is  now  on  his  way  to  visit  his  friends  in 
St.  Louis  for  the  second  time,  and  is  at  present  my  only  travelling  com- 
panion. As  such  I  find  him  agreeable  and  interesting.  I  am  indebted  to 
him  for  much  valuable  information  relative  to  the  habits  and  peculiarities 
of  his  own  and  various  other  Indian  tribes,  while  his  vast  fund  of  ready 
anecdotes  and  amusing  stories  serves  to  beguile  the  weariness  of  camp 
hours. 

The  religious  peculiarities  of  the  mountain  tribes  furnished  us  a  theme 
for  frequent  conversation,  inasmuch  as  their  sentiments  with  regard  to  a 
future  existence  are  strangely  interesting  in  detail.  Most  of  them  are 
firm  believers  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  as  well  as  the  condition  of 
rewards  and  punishments  after  death — though  some  accredit  the  Hindoo 

26 


300  THE  WATER  BULL. 

notions  of  metamorphosis  or  metempsychosis,  while  yet  a  very  few  look 
for  annihilation. 

The  majority,  however,  aver  that  the  good,  at  death,  after  a  long  and 
tedious  journey,  reach  a  happy  country,  abundant  in  everything  the  heart 
can  desire,  or  thought  conceive  of ;  where,  free  from  pain  and  sickness,  and 
removed  from  every  ill,  they  shall  bask  forever  in  the  sunshine  of  perfect 
beatitude. 

To  aid  in  this  long  journey,  horses  are  occasionally  sacrificed  for  the 
feeble  and  decrepit,  (more  generally  squaws  and  aged  warriors,)  that,  by 
mounting  their  disembodied  chargers,  the  spirits  of  the  deceased  may  gain  a 
speedy  entrance  within  its  confines  and  taste  the  joys  of  their  eternal  home. 

Of  those  adhering  to  different  opinions,  some  believe  in  the  transmission 
of  souls  from  body  to  body  through  successive  ages  ;  and  others,  that  they 
become  the  spirits  of  either  men  or  animals,  according  to  the  virtues  or 
demerits  of  the  departed. 

With  regard  to  the  final  allotment  of  the  wicked,  their  general  theology 
consigns  them  to  an  interminable  wandering  over  a  desert  waste,  without 
purpose  or  rest,  or  even  one  moment's  respite  from  their  miseries,  and  sub- 
ject to  all  the  bitter  pangs  of  hunger,  thirst,  and  nakedness  ;  and  tormented 
with  the  sudden  and  intolerable  extremities  of  heat  and  cold.  The  Scrip- 
turian  here  will  not  fail  to  recognize  an  obscure  delineation  of  the  world 
of  woe,  as  portrayed  in  the  sacred  writings. 

The  ideas  of  some  few,  on  the  other  hand,  transform  these  condemned 
spirits  into  wild  beasts  or  reptiles,  but  more  frequently  into  prairie-dogs, 
that,  by  penance  and  suffering  through  a  long  succession  of  years,  they 
may  atone  for  previous  misdeeds. 

Many  incidents  of  adventure  related  by  Friday  would  doubtless  interest 
the  general  reader,  but  space  precludes  their  insertion.  However.  I  cannot 
refuse  place  to  the  following,  as  affording  to  the  curious  a  more  special 
matter  of  speculation. 

"  On  my  return  from  an  expedition  against  the  Utahs,"  said  he,  "  in 
crossing  the  mountain  chain  south  of  Long's  Peak,  I  went  in  advance  of 
the  main  party. 

u  My  course  led  over  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the  range,  whose 
summit  disclosed  a  level  surface  of  considerable  extent.  While  passing 
leisurely  along,  the  crowing  of  a  mountain  fowl,  a  short  distance  to  the 
right,  caught  my  ear.  (There  are  fowls  in  some  parts  of  the  mountains 
similar  to  those  raised  by  the  whites, — but  they  are  very  wild  and  shy.) 
Following  the  sound,  I  was  led  to  the  verge  of  a  small  lake,  with  steep 
banks  of  rock,  and  sat  down  by  it,  in  hopes  of  discovering  the  object  of 
my  curiosity. 

M  While  here,  my  attention  was  directed  to  a  strange  movement  in  the 
lake-waters,  accompanied  by  a  loud  noise  and  turmoil ;  soon  after  which 
a  large  creature  arose  from  the  middle  and  swam  to  the  shore,  where  he 
stood  upon  a  rock  in  full  view.  His  looks  frightened  me.  In  size  he 
was  equal  to  the  largest  buffalo,  and  much  like  one  of  those  animals  in 
form ;  he  was  black,  with  a  singularly  shaped  head,  and  had  tusks  in- 
stead of  horns,  which  curved  downward. 

"  He  looked  so  terrible  I  hurried  away  as  quick  as  possible,  and  re- 


SEPARATE  ROUTES.  301 

lated  my  adventure  on  rejoining  the  party.  The  old  men  laughed  at  my 
expressions  of  wonder — asserting  that  they  had  before  seen  such  creatures 
in  the  high  mountain-lakes,  and  called  them  *  water  bulls?  " 

Resuming  our  course,  we  travelled  by  easy  stages  for  five  succeeding 
days,  which  brought  us  to  Council  Grove,  a  noted  place  of  rendezvous 
for  Santa  Fe  companies. 

The  intervening  country  from  Cow  creek  exhibits  an  entire  change  in 
its  geological  character.  The  landscape  is  gently  undulating,  and  fur- 
rowed by  frequent  watercourses.  Timber  is  becoming  more  abundant. 
The  soil  appears  humid,  and  presents  an  air  of  general  fertility.  The 
grasses  also  differ  in  their  species  and  assume  a  lusty  growth. 

The  sand-hills  which  had  before  skirted  the  Arkansas,  as  the  traveller 
advances,  lose  their  naked  deformity  amid  dense  groves  of  timber,  and 
finally  disappear  in  the  distance. 

There  is  throughout  a  marked  scarcity  of  game  common  to  the  grand 
prairies,  and  everything  denotes  an  approach  to  the  frontiers  of  civiliza- 
tion. 

Council  Grove  is  a  stream  of  considerable  magnitude,  tributary  to  the 
Osage  river,  and,  by  the  Santa  Fe  trail,  is  one  hundred  and  forty-four  miles 
west  of  Independence.  Its  bottoms  are  broad,  fertile,  and  well  timbered 
with  heavy  forests  of  oak,  walnut,  maple,  and  most  other  varieties  of 
wood  indigenous  to  the  States. 

The  country  in  its  vicinity  is  highly  interesting  to  the  agriculturist, 
and  presents  a  soil  remarkable  for  its  fertility,  inviting  the  hand  of  indus- 
try to  a  rich  reward. 

Here,  too,  all  the  varied  products  of  the  farmer  might  find  a  ready  each 
market,  from  the  numerous  mountain  and  Spanish  companies  that  con- 
stantly pass  and  repass,  and,  doubtlessly,  at  commanding  prices.  This 
locality,  in  fact,  being  situated  upon  the  very  verge  of  the  grand  prairie, 
affords  a  most  eligible  point  for  a  settlement,  and  will  doubtless  soon  ac- 
quire a  merited  importance  as  the  place  of  general  out-fit  and  supply  for 
the  western  and  southwestern  trade. 

Through  the  agency  of  Friday  I  became  acquainted  with  the  existence 
of  a  vegetable  found  in  these  parts,  which  is  known  as  the  prairie-potato. 
This  attains  a  size  almost  equalling  our  common  potato.  It  is  of  a  rough, 
knotty  appearance,  somewhat  oviform,  and  when  cooked  is  dry  and 
sweet  tasted.  It  is  found  generally  in  the  banks  of  watercourses,  and 
produces  a  low  ground-vine,  not  dissimilar  to  a  species  of  that  vegetable 
usual  to  warm  climates. 

We  were  detained  here  for  five  or  six  days,  by  a  continuous  rain 
which  raised  the  creek  to  an  extraordinary  height, — overflowing  its  banks 
and  completely  flooding  its  extensive  bottoms.  So  sudden  was  the  rise 
that  we  were  compelled  to  move  camp  three  times  in  the  course  of  an 
hour,  and  were  finally  driven  to  an  adjoining  hill. 

Improving  the  first  interval  of  fair  weather  presenting  itself,  I  bade 
adieu  to  my  Indian  companion   and   renewed  my  journey  alone,  as  our 


302  CIVILIZED  INDIANS. 

routes  led  in  different  directions,  his  for  Independence,  Mo.,  and  mine  for 
Van  Buren,  Ark.  Following  the  course  of  the  creek  by  its  right  bank  for 
some  twenty  miles,  I  then  struck  over  to  the  Neosho,  and,  continuing  on, 
•ne  fourth  day  subsequent  I  reached  the  Osage  village. 

The  country  passed  in  travelling  this  distance,  presented  much  excellent 
land.  The  creek  valleys  were  broad  and  heavily  timbered,  and  the  adjoin- 
ing prairies  undulating  and  clothed  with  luxuriant  vegetation.  The  streams 
were  so  swollen  I  was  forced  to  swim  most  of  them,  which  rendered  my 
progress  one  continued  scene  of  toilsome  and  perilous  adventure. 

My  stay  at  the  Osage  village  was  prolonged  for  two  days,  during  which 
time  I  was  kindly  entertained  by  a  chief  who  served  as  my  host. 

The  Osages  number  between  four  and  five  thousand  souls,  and  inhabit 
the  section  of  country  bordering  upon  the  Neosho  river.  Their  territory 
is  well  timbered,  abundantly  watered,  and  remarkably  fertile. 

In  dress  and  appearance  these  Indians  assimilate  the  Pawnees  and  Caws ; 
but  their  dwellings  are  neater  and  more  spacious,  being  constructed  of  wa- 
ter-flags fastened  to  frame-works  of  poles,  so  ingeniously  thatched  and 
tightly  interwoven  as  to  prevent  the  ingress  of  either  wind  or  rain. 

This  tribe  are  beginning  to  make  advances  in  civilization,  and  devote 
some  little  attention  to  agriculture.  A  farmer  and  blacksmith  are  furnish- 
ed them  by  the  U.  S.  Government,  while  the  philanthropic  efforts  of  the 
American  Board  of  Missions  are  directed  to  their  amelioration  with  consid- 
erable success. 

On  resuming  my  course,  a  branch  of  the  Neosho  which  intercepted  it 
proved  unfordable,  and  its  passage  was  otherwise  rendered  particularly  dan- 
gerous on  account  of  the  swiftness  of  its  current.  However,  my  landlord, 
on  seeing  my  determination  to  cross  at  all  hazards,  procured  two  large 
pieces  of  raw  hide,  which  were  firmly  sewn  together  in  boat  shape  and 
held  to  their  proper  position  by  slender  boughs ;  these  he  conveyed  to  the 
stream,  and  desired  me  to  put  my  baggage  into  them,  remarking  that 
there  was  "  plenty  room  "  for  myself,  too.  Following  his  directions,  the 
frail  bark  was  soon  launched  and  towed  to  the  opposite  shore  by  a  son  of 
the  old  man,  who  swam  across  for  that  purpose,  while  his  brother,  leading 
my  mule  after  him,  plunged  into  the  current,  and  in  a  few  moments  every- 
thing was  safely  landed. 

To  reward  this  generous  act  I  presented  the  old  chief  with  a  blanket, 
and  bade  him  remember  that  "  Good  acts  pay  a  sure  tribute  to  a  good 
heart,  for  they  nourish  its  possessor  with  happy  thoughts ;  very  often,  too, 
they  yield  a  twofold  return  by  the  gratitude  of  the  one  upon  whom  such 
acts  are  bestowed ;  and  then,  again,  sometimes  the  practiser  is  more  than 
blessed  by  the  acceptance  of  such  presents  as  the  grateful  one  may  chance 
to  offer.  So,  let  my  brother  always  do  good,  and  the  Good  Spirit  will  own 
him  as  a  subject  well  worthy  of  his  special  blessing." 

Bidding  the  friendly  natives  adieu,  I  mounted  my  mule  and  hurried  on- 
ward. My  course  led  through  the  territory  occupied  by  a  division  of  the 
Shawnees,  and  that  settled  by  the  Quapaws  and  Cherokees.  These  tribes 
are  partially  civilized ;  but  the  Cherokees  are  farther,  advanced  in  refine- 


CONCLUSION.  303 


ment  than  any  other  Indian  nation  I  am  acquainted  with.  In  fact,  they  are 
better  educated,  better  livers,  and  a  better  people  than  their  immediate 
white  neighbors  upon  the  frontiers  of  Arkansas  and  Missouri. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  July  4th  I  reached  Van  Buren,  my  point  of  des- 
tination, happy  again  to  mingle  amid  scenes  and  associations  from  which  I 
had  been  so  long  separated ;  and  here  I  would  take  leave  of  the  reader, 
provided  I  have  been  so  honored  as  to  command  his  interest  and  attention 
thus  far.  If  the  preceding  pages  have  added  aught  to  his  stock  of  useful 
information,  or  served  to  while  away  a  leisure  hour  agreeably,  the  object 
which  primarily  influenced  their  publication  will  have  been  accomplished, — 
if  contrariwise,  it  remains  for  me  to  beg  pardon  for  the  trespass  I  have  un- 
designedly committed  upon  his  time  and  patience. 


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14  DAY  USE 

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LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below, 
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Tel.  No.  642-3405 

Renewals  may  be  made  4  days  prior  to  date  due, 

Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  rec  " 


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